For those interested, if you crush these ingredients with a mortar and pestle, DO NOT USE ONE MORTAR AND PESTEL FOR ALL INGREDIENTS. To be absolutely safe, acquire multiple mortars and pestles to crush the individual ingredients, and then mix them separately. Be sure to lable your Mortars and your pestels so you dinae accidentally blend the different ingredients together while crushing, as a combination of the wrong ingredients WILL result in some lost eyebrows at best, or a fragmentation bomb at worse. It is also advisable to mix primer compound AWAY from any other explosive or emflammable compounds, as accidents WILL happen. One bit of static zap or one random bolt falling on your tool shelf, or just mixing your chemicals a little too vigorously, and BOOM. Primer compound is a HIGHLY VOLATILE explosive, a little bit made at a time will go a long way. DO NOT MIX UP AND KEEP A 5 GALLON BUCKET OF READY PRIMER COMPOUND ‘FOR LATER USE”.. Dinae even mix up a Pound of the stuff to make primers in one sitting. Keep your batches SMALL. The last thing you want is to try making a pound of primer compound in one sitting, and be remembered as ‘the bloke who vaporized himself and blew up his garage.” by your neighbors and remaining relatives… Keep all that in mind, and you can enjoy making thousands of primers for years to come. Happy reloading, and keep your fingers attached.
I like ball mills in place of mortar pestals. I used separate jars and non ferrous balls. I still use a brass powder measure for reloading black powder cartridge rounds. I always wore a static ESD bracelet when working on fireworks. Remember that primer compound is insanely sensitive so no mondo cans of the stuff laying about. Mix only what you need. No More
Something about the paint brush along with all of the “happy” and “unhappy” chemicals talk got me wondering if the ghost of Bob Ross was somehow being channeled here.
You really need to make a 100 capacity plate set for charging with powder, packing and seating the anvils. You can charge and seat anvils in 100 primers in 3 - 5 minutes safely and uniformly. It's a scaled down factory method and it works perfectly.
If you are just breaking up clumps, folding it in a sheet of paper and rolling over it with a small pill bottle works good, and make sure everything is powdered finely before mixing anything. The final mixing can be done in a small pill bottle as well, just tape it to the end of a broom stick. And he needs to fire them in this video!
I have reloaded a few primers, going through test stages. for the paper disks tolit paper, but I just pulled anvils out of 100 small rifle primers and CAREFULLY took a big sewing needle scraping out primers. only one went off . will load back in small pistol primers. testing Walmart cap gun, the kind that are a eight shot plastic ring . it is very unforgiving but easy to get propellant out. also iam testing the 22 cal loads for shooting nails into concrete such as sold at Lowe’s and Home Depot .they are a real pain . I use nail sets , smallest first to open crimped shells, then every size till I can take needle nose pliers and break peace’s off to where I can properly scrape propellant out of bottom and sides. it takes forever but decide after testing what works best for you and have a blast. Nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well . if you have a adjustable lighted magnifying desk model that folds, that’s awesome because my older eyes plays tricks on me and it’s a big help.
(For anyone that wants to copy and paste the ingredients). 9gr Antimony sulfide 3gr Sulfur 4gr Very Fine Ground Glass 0.2gr sodium Bicarb 0.2gr Aluminum powder 17gr Potassium Chlorate (mixed extra carefully). then the liquid is 7 parts acetone, 1 part shellac. I'm not certain what shellac is though. I believe it's a natural chemical from an insect that is used in clear coat and nail polish. Also, make sure you watch the video to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. This isn't directions. It's just the ingredients.
@@ommsterlitz1805 Do you know what's in commercial primers? Many have lead and mercury. I was told that modern one's didn't, but when I tested some myself (including percussion caps), they all either had mercury or lead. I didn't have any clean or "green" ammo to test though.
The 'shellac' is most likely cellulose laquer - it has the same chemical composition as single base smokeless powder, the major difference lies in the amount of solvent used in the end product, hence it burns very well.
@@deucedeuce1572 Modern non-corrosive primers are lead styphonate unless they are marked lead free. Mercury fulminate are corrosive primers commonly used outside of the US (or used to be pretty common)
@@tomhubbard353 Is mercury fulminate corrosive? I've done research on it before, but honestly can't remember. I believe percussion caps (both old and new) contain mercury fulminate, but they could also be leas styphnate. Some people say nitrocellulose was used also, but I don't think I've ever been able to confirm that. I have confirmed though that it is impact sensitive. I just don't think it's sensitive enough or hot enough (or slow enough) to be used as a percussion cap though. (and definitely not a primer being ignited with a firing pin).
@Andrew Michaels I have a really good safety consideration if you don't mind my chime. When you are mixing this stuff, use acetone especially while you are pressing it all in. The acetone will dry rather quickly, and it will not have any negative effects on your primers.
Nice recipe and process. But guys, you don’t compress the compound inside the caps in the same table where the rest of the compound is. Actually no hard instrument should cross above the ready compound batch. Powdered glass makes this stuff really unstable, and its not safe to even have a chance to drop something over it.
@@deucedeuce1572 not sure, but the bullet going off might no be the major problem. The big deal is to drop any hard instrument over the primer compound. This stuff is really sensitive, and the pile could go off just by dropping your watch/cellphone/screwdriver over it, even if not being inside a primer case.
I agree, I would definitely get some more space between my bulk compound and the work area BUTTT I believe when the acetone wets the mixture is severely desensitizes it making it considerably safer. As I understand it and have watched documentaries on the subject, commercial lead styphonate primers are "charged" with a slurry that is acetone and LS. They squeegee the cups full in a "punched plate" of a 100 at a time I believe, then paper and anvil added while wet.
Seems to me that using a mortar and pestle on each ingredient separately before mixing would alleviate that chopping and mashing and probably deliver a finer and more homogeneous mixture.
good luck fnding that third compound, hell good luck just finding plain ol' black powder. I haven't seen (retail price, not bunker price) percussion caps in over 2 years. thinking i might try to revolutionize the industry before the EMP locks down most all commercial commodities
@@ColMason Glad the percussion cap and black powder prices have come down a lot in the last couple months. Have found some for fair(ish) prices recently.
SEPARATELY MOST DEFINITELY, I know of a 3 1/2 fingered friend whom would definitely advise against mixing together, He attempted once just once with prime all large batch, flames got 1 finger, infection set in hospital had to remove part of another. Yes I am evil I laughed my ass off. He even admits thinking back he realizes it was dumb, stupid to try a pressure sensitive friction sensitive material mix in a mortar and pestle not the rational, sane approach.
That is a massive mix of those chemicals. I've seen what smaller amounts do. I was on the edge of my seat, watching, and when your phone went off, I jumped out of my skin.😂 It was a good unintended jump scare.
Those large magnifier lights that clamp on your desk are a godsend! I used a florescent one for detailed electronics work/mods. The newer ones are led's but go for the largest lens and whitest light you can. Their usually around $20 - 30.00 and well worth it even for photagraphy. And detail work really. My eyes have gone downhill over the years and the first thing you need even before glasses is GOOD lighting. Lol
Did you make the attachment for your press that your using to push the anvil into the cup? If so could you make a video on how you made it or instructions, or where you got it?
Rimfire priming compound will work just fine. You will need the anvils back in your primers, unless you're reloading Berdan-primed cases, which have the anvils built into the cases.
What are the last things you put in. Sounded like "anvils " what are they and where do you get them ? Why are they necessary? Thanks. New to blabk powder an learning as much as i can.
...last year I bought a large quantity of those Pop Its...kids noisemakers from the days of my yout' wonder if they could be used as a basic porosity compound???
Considering how I got a 5 minute Tinnitus after someone shot an empty, primed cartridge next to me, you might want to not have the big ass pile of powder next to where you're working on priming, pushing the anvils,... And: grounding against static electricity could also save your fingers. But: very interesting. I don't reload or plan on doing anything like that, but still: very interesting
Weird how that one that went off was *that* silent. Are these DIY primers that much weaker than factory primers? Some .22 indoor rounds only use the rimfire primer without powder to get the bullet to deform into the rifling and go all through the barrel fast enough for target shooting, and I already mentioned my ears ringing from a primed empty case without powder or bullet being fired. These seem *WAAAY* less energetic
no. Potassium chlorate is poisones. you mean KCl chlorate is KClO3. you can it make from kcl with an graphit anode + and nickl or iron kathode - with 5 volts and place both elektrode very close to gether under one inch.
The commercial producer I saw made trays of 1,000. It was plastic with shallow holes the size of the cups. A small vacuum pump held them in, and a small wand would suck up the backward cups. Then, he opened a plastic tub and used a plastic putty knife to smear the compound into them evenly. A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled. Slid into place, and the paper between pulled out. Rolled and let dry.
Can you elaborate on, “ A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled” I don’t understand this part. Also, do you have any diagram or more information regarding the commercial producer?
@George Echeverri the producer was Federal I believe. The plate for the anvils was very thin. Only the thickness of one anvil. A quantity was poured over it and wiped until one was in every hole.
What is the purpose of the powdered glass? Is it so there's more hard pieces to rub against the actual compound within the powder? Also would fumed silica work?
If you ever work with very fine aluminum powder, you have to be careful. It can be a very dangerous thing to work with if you don't know the dangers and how to avoid them. I'd even say it's the most dangerous of ingredients in this video. In any case, definitely do some research on the safety/dangers of aluminum powder and the other ingredients (either alone or mixed)... and don't work with them until you have learned and understand them. (I only learned after doing stupid/ignorant/dangerous things and am lucky that I was never hurt).
Yep. Ask the Germans about using aluminum powder in their doping mixture they painted on the Hindenburg to make it shine...........one reason it burned so quickly.
@@seawolfinternational5481 Yeah, aluminum powder is also part of many explosive mixtures. Things like KNO3 and many other chemicals mixed with aluminum powder become explosive... and there are also many thermite (and thermate) mixes with aluminum.
The viscosity and final hardness may affect the final efficientcy of ignition. Shellac is a waxy product made from insects, beetles I believe or their shells. A pine resine if mixed thin enough might work. Both are cut/thinned by acetone/alcohol/turpentine, and have a unique characteristic of stopping stain bleed through (like wall stains from mold, tannins, dyes, chalk etc.) they are a good base sealer around primer and bullet to case joint for waterproofing ammo. Although I have used paint pens for that purpose with some success.
Could the unhappy powder be mixed in a slurry of say pure alcohol (say everclear) and then put in as a putty/honey consistency before putting in the anvil (this way it's a wet compound and the alcohol would evaporate out
I mean, you don't need to clean between shots, or speed 100mph home to clean the firearm before it falls apart, but yes, the salts (sulphur and potassium chlorate) form sulphuric and hydrochloric acids when exposed to water, which the fouling in the bore/surfaces exposed to combustion gasses, will absorb out of the air. The gun won't rust apart on you in a couple days, but the corrosion damage is cumulative, so just make sure to clean it after every shooting session. Most priming made prior to the 1970's was made with compounds similar to this, and most of those arms are just fine so long as they were maintained. That's why the AR10 and Ar15 gas tubes are stainless and the gas system on the Kalashnikov pattern rifles is easily removed for cleaning, lessons learned from earlier self-loading military rifles (gas systems aren't generally disassembled in the field)
Unless you're reloading Berdan primers and cases, nothing. Boxer primers must have the anvil. Berdan primed cases (usually, steel) have the anvil inside the primer pocket. They also require some specialized tools to deprime such as a hydraulic deprimer.
Someone has been watching to much of Mr. Rodgers Neighborhood and Bob Ross. Would it be safer to add the ground glass last? Its the abrasive used to trigger the reaction.
While I was quite the shooter in my youth, it was always with factory made, modern primers. I never had a hobby cannon, etc. I know that modern primers have an anvil as part of their design, but why do you need them here? Won't the paper disk along with shellac hold them together? And if I may ask, what is the difference between a friction primer and a regular primer that's used in a modern gun? Yours look the same. (Though I am sure modern primers don't contain glass.) I assume what happens with this friction primer is the ground glass becomes hot due to friction when the primer is "struck" and the heat sets off the unstable "stuff" in the mixture? Lastly, I assume all the chemicals can be purchased at a chemical supply house? By the way, shellac is used to treat the areas of wood where the grain changes direction. You apply the shellac and it prevents that area from absorbing as much stain. If you don't used shellac, the downward curve of your stock will be noticeably darker after applying the stain. Learned that the hard way when I sanded down the stock of my Ruger 10/22 to treat some deep nicks and lighten the stocks tone a few shades. I always thought the stock a bit too dark for my taste. Live and learn- I was no less proud of my first "gunsmithing" job, lol. I actually used that little carbine to compete against bolt action target rifles. While they of course beat me, it was not by much. They were shocked at how accurate that rifle was. The instructor was really impressed and asked me what my technique was. Being a kid, I had no technique, lol. I just knew that the Ruger 10/22 was a great gun. He said that if I put target sights on it, I could likely be as good or better than the bolt action 22s I competed against- pretty good for a carbine! Anyway, thanks so much for this! I had no idea you could make your own primers- friction or otherwise.
90%rubbing alc. What I was told. Makes it a bit less touchy and easier to put back in primer cap. Let dry 24 hrs and you have primers. But I missed half the ingredients and how much of each because my internet sucks..lol
I done bought this and made no telling how many rounds the kit includes the hardening agent now. In my opinion it's not worth having. Takes me 2 hours to fork out about 50 rounds I could of bought for 10 bucks. By time I make 500 rounds I'll be dead.
They come from the once fired brass after you de-prime them for reloading...take them and pop the anvil out..clean them however you want (tumber, ultrasonic cleaner) then follow the directions to reload the primers for reloading the ammo
@@petruse8893 lead azide can ve made from stibnite, nitric acid, and sodium azide. perhaps one shouldnt assume others exp or knowledge of complete strangers? go check out the sciencemadness website and forums. lots of educational information there on organic chemistry.
It seems to me ,that you have no idea what lead azide is and stibnite as well.The first contains lead and nitrogen in a very unusual compoundwhich is salt of lead and HN3 acid ,the second is a sulfide, which is also salt of antimony and H2S.Unless you are deep into alchemy and know the magic formula for transmutations,making lead out of antimony is not possible,more so turning H2S into HN3 is a sorcery on a cosmic scale
i came back here to ask another question about substituting lead picrate for the chlorate and saw your reply...i was confusing stibnite for metallic lead. likely tired when i wrote my reply. anyway in answer to your original question. nitric acid and metallic lead to obtain lead nitrate, then its a simple substitution reaction with water solutions of lead nitrate and sodium azide. lead azide will precipitate out. likely leaving behind a contaminated sodium nitrate solution. the hard part of course is obtaining the sodium azide. there are a couple sources like early airbags or synthesizing it from hydrazine sulfide, that said its all pretty toxic synthesis. i found the lead picrate route to be fairly simple enough starting with ASA to picric acid then lead nitrate to lead picrate ..fairly easy relatively safe with proper PPE. so anyway have a nice day and again, you assume much. but do you have anything useful to contribute like an informative answer to substitution of corrosive chlorates with lead picrate?
@@rifleshooter2 Good to know. Tried making a mix a couple years ago that i got on youtube and it was way too sensitive for primers (even though it was meant for primers). I didn't trust it though. Did some drop tests and a few of them went off just from dropping them. (Don't wanna think what would happen if one went off while loaded in a magazine. It would likely set off a chain reaction and set them all off the first time the gun was fired).
@@rifleshooter2 Do you know if it makes a big difference using a finer grain powder ? Aardvark recipe shows 60-100 mesh that converts to 150-250 microns . Smaller the grains the faster the or hotter burn rate ?
@@kmackiss 0.2gr aluminum flake is not for burn rate. Rather to make hot incandescent particles to ignite spherical powders reliably. Check aardvarkreloading.com
That is quite a lot of priming compound to make at once. To understand what that stuff can do set the whole amount off with some fuse. It is surprising how much of the paper is destroyed. There is another priming compound recipe that produces a lead double salt that is entirely inactive until a small drop of water is placed in each completed primer - there is no handling of active explosive. It is also non corrosive. The preparation is much more complex than this simple mixture. Not impossible though, even without chemistry training.
@@deucedeuce1572 I believe the primer mix is eph 20 - lots and lots of stuff on Aardvark reloading - here's a video on the hardest part of making it (not too hard though) -ruclips.net/video/YHE9KsImws4/видео.html - This isn't the best video to start but I happened to find it - Aardvark reloading and eph 20 is enough to find everything though. Also here is a primer composition text that you will like. www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html Here is a primer course pdf - aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202019-06-28.pdf I think you will really like this one.
PS after you mix the composition you assemble the primers dry. The composition is not explosive at this point because the last chemical reaction does not occur until a tiny drop of water and isopropyl alcohol is added to the primer, which is then set aside to dry and then you are good - when dry you have an effective non corrosive primer.
For those interested, if you crush these ingredients with a mortar and pestle, DO NOT USE ONE MORTAR AND PESTEL FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.
To be absolutely safe, acquire multiple mortars and pestles to crush the individual ingredients, and then mix them separately.
Be sure to lable your Mortars and your pestels so you dinae accidentally blend the different ingredients together while crushing, as a combination of the wrong ingredients WILL result in some lost eyebrows at best, or a fragmentation bomb at worse.
It is also advisable to mix primer compound AWAY from any other explosive or emflammable compounds, as accidents WILL happen.
One bit of static zap or one random bolt falling on your tool shelf, or just mixing your chemicals a little too vigorously, and BOOM.
Primer compound is a HIGHLY VOLATILE explosive, a little bit made at a time will go a long way. DO NOT MIX UP AND KEEP A 5 GALLON BUCKET OF READY PRIMER COMPOUND ‘FOR LATER USE”..
Dinae even mix up a Pound of the stuff to make primers in one sitting. Keep your batches SMALL.
The last thing you want is to try making a pound of primer compound in one sitting, and be remembered as ‘the bloke who vaporized himself and blew up his garage.” by your neighbors and remaining relatives…
Keep all that in mind, and you can enjoy making thousands of primers for years to come.
Happy reloading, and keep your fingers attached.
I like ball mills in place of mortar pestals. I used separate jars and non ferrous balls. I still use a brass powder measure for reloading black powder cartridge rounds.
I always wore a static ESD bracelet when working on fireworks.
Remember that primer compound is insanely sensitive so no mondo cans of the stuff laying about. Mix only what you need. No More
Oh yeah i remember making crystal based ones and i burnt my hair a bit
would mixing them wet make it safer?
Something about the paint brush along with all of the “happy” and “unhappy” chemicals talk got me wondering if the ghost of Bob Ross was somehow being channeled here.
Maybe
You really need to make a 100 capacity plate set for charging with powder, packing and seating the anvils. You can charge and seat anvils in 100 primers in 3 - 5 minutes safely and uniformly. It's a scaled down factory method and it works perfectly.
the real reason Bob Ross is missing part of a finger. "Happy little chemicals"
I was just gonna ask if anyone else got that Bob Ross vibe, lol. Must have been deliberate. This is really calming to watch. Yet...such suspense...
You stole my line! 😜
ghehehe
It’d probably be the unhappy little chemicals, lol
😂😂😂
If you are just breaking up clumps, folding it in a sheet of paper and rolling over it with a small pill bottle works good, and make sure everything is powdered finely before mixing anything.
The final mixing can be done in a small pill bottle as well, just tape it to the end of a broom stick.
And he needs to fire them in this video!
I have reloaded a few primers, going through test stages. for the paper disks tolit paper, but I just pulled anvils out of 100 small rifle primers and CAREFULLY took a big sewing needle scraping out primers. only one went off . will load back in small pistol primers. testing Walmart cap gun, the kind that are a eight shot plastic ring . it is very unforgiving but easy to get propellant out. also iam testing the 22 cal loads for shooting nails into concrete such as sold at Lowe’s and Home Depot .they are a real pain . I use nail sets , smallest first to open crimped shells, then every size till I can take needle nose pliers and break peace’s off to where I can properly scrape propellant out of bottom and sides. it takes forever but decide after testing what works best for you and have a blast. Nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well . if you have a adjustable lighted magnifying desk model that folds, that’s awesome because my older eyes plays tricks on me and it’s a big help.
I always new that my Berdan brass would come handy one day.
Didn't know Bob Ross made primers! Great video.
(For anyone that wants to copy and paste the ingredients).
9gr Antimony sulfide
3gr Sulfur
4gr Very Fine Ground Glass
0.2gr sodium Bicarb
0.2gr Aluminum powder
17gr Potassium Chlorate (mixed extra carefully).
then the liquid is 7 parts acetone, 1 part shellac.
I'm not certain what shellac is though. I believe it's a natural chemical from an insect that is used in clear coat and nail polish. Also, make sure you watch the video to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. This isn't directions. It's just the ingredients.
Antimoine ? ok i'm not doing this anymore lol
@@ommsterlitz1805 Do you know what's in commercial primers? Many have lead and mercury. I was told that modern one's didn't, but when I tested some myself (including percussion caps), they all either had mercury or lead. I didn't have any clean or "green" ammo to test though.
The 'shellac' is most likely cellulose laquer - it has the same chemical composition as single base smokeless powder, the major difference lies in the amount of solvent used in the end product, hence it burns very well.
@@deucedeuce1572 Modern non-corrosive primers are lead styphonate unless they are marked lead free. Mercury fulminate are corrosive primers commonly used outside of the US (or used to be pretty common)
@@tomhubbard353 Is mercury fulminate corrosive? I've done research on it before, but honestly can't remember. I believe percussion caps (both old and new) contain mercury fulminate, but they could also be leas styphnate. Some people say nitrocellulose was used also, but I don't think I've ever been able to confirm that. I have confirmed though that it is impact sensitive. I just don't think it's sensitive enough or hot enough (or slow enough) to be used as a percussion cap though. (and definitely not a primer being ignited with a firing pin).
This is wonderful.
You can use a 3 inch drywall screw to remove anvils easily.
@Andrew Michaels I have a really good safety consideration if you don't mind my chime. When you are mixing this stuff, use acetone especially while you are pressing it all in. The acetone will dry rather quickly, and it will not have any negative effects on your primers.
ترکیبات رادرست توضیح نمیدهید
@@user-jz4se9et7gThere is a language barrier
He adds acetone at 10:00.
@@Toimu13yeah, but after mixing. Doing it before stabilizes the mixture and makes it easier to put in the primer cups.
Nice recipe and process. But guys, you don’t compress the compound inside the caps in the same table where the rest of the compound is. Actually no hard instrument should cross above the ready compound batch. Powdered glass makes this stuff really unstable, and its not safe to even have a chance to drop something over it.
Would it go off if the bullet was dropped with a completed primer installed?
@@deucedeuce1572 not sure, but the bullet going off might no be the major problem. The big deal is to drop any hard instrument over the primer compound. This stuff is really sensitive, and the pile could go off just by dropping your watch/cellphone/screwdriver over it, even if not being inside a primer case.
I agree, I would definitely get some more space between my bulk compound and the work area BUTTT I believe when the acetone wets the mixture is severely desensitizes it making it considerably safer. As I understand it and have watched documentaries on the subject, commercial lead styphonate primers are "charged" with a slurry that is acetone and LS. They squeegee the cups full in a "punched plate" of a 100 at a time I believe, then paper and anvil added while wet.
Yeah thats why you make small batches and use common sense 😂
Seems to me that using a mortar and pestle on each ingredient separately before mixing would alleviate that chopping and mashing and probably deliver a finer and more homogeneous mixture.
It does
And save a lot of “happy chemicals” comments!
good luck fnding that third compound, hell good luck just finding plain ol' black powder. I haven't seen (retail price, not bunker price) percussion caps in over 2 years. thinking i might try to revolutionize the industry before the EMP locks down most all commercial commodities
@@ColMason Glad the percussion cap and black powder prices have come down a lot in the last couple months. Have found some for fair(ish) prices recently.
SEPARATELY MOST DEFINITELY, I know of a 3 1/2 fingered friend whom would definitely advise against mixing together, He attempted once just once with prime all large batch, flames got 1 finger, infection set in hospital had to remove part of another. Yes I am evil I laughed my ass off. He even admits thinking back he realizes it was dumb, stupid to try a pressure sensitive friction sensitive material mix in a mortar and pestle not the rational, sane approach.
Use a littl acetone while you mix and it becomes more stable till it dries.
This is an a very good point! Not only for this but when messing with ANY explosive mixtures. Bravo!
Have you looked into doing the mixing wet?
Bob Ross of primer reloading..."Happy little chemicals...Happy little trees"
That is a massive mix of those chemicals. I've seen what smaller amounts do. I was on the edge of my seat, watching, and when your phone went off, I jumped out of my skin.😂 It was a good unintended jump scare.
It is far too much to be safe. That much can do serious damage.
I just can't imagine working with something this small although I have saved thousands of primers, I hope I never have to resort to making them.
Those large magnifier lights that clamp on your desk are a godsend! I used a florescent one for detailed electronics work/mods.
The newer ones are led's but go for the largest lens and whitest light you can. Their usually around $20 - 30.00 and well worth it even for photagraphy. And detail work really. My eyes have gone downhill over the years and the first thing you need even before glasses is GOOD lighting. Lol
Fantastic!
Got a chrono? I'm wondering about velocity consistency
Did you make the attachment for your press that your using to push the anvil into the cup? If so could you make a video on how you made it or instructions, or where you got it?
Awesome vid. I'm glad people are working on this. Could I use rimfire primer and skip putting anvils back?
Rimfire priming compound will work just fine. You will need the anvils back in your primers, unless you're reloading Berdan-primed cases, which have the anvils built into the cases.
Is it just me or does him breaking up the chunks of “unhappy” chemical sound a lot like Bob Ross brushing in some happy little trees?!
Funny you said that I was thinking the same thing. LoL
Looks like that is a huge batch. Danger danger danger.
What are the last things you put in. Sounded like "anvils " what are they and where do you get them ? Why are they necessary? Thanks. New to blabk powder an learning as much as i can.
What if you can’t get anvils? What could be used instead?
How did the test go?
...last year I bought a large quantity of those Pop Its...kids noisemakers from the days of my yout' wonder if they could be used as a basic porosity compound???
What type of liquid is that?
even I would wear a face shield for this
Any reason you couldnt mix this wet with alcohol? I am assuming that the alcohol would make i inert while wet.
Considering how I got a 5 minute Tinnitus after someone shot an empty, primed cartridge next to me, you might want to not have the big ass pile of powder next to where you're working on priming, pushing the anvils,...
And: grounding against static electricity could also save your fingers.
But: very interesting.
I don't reload or plan on doing anything like that, but still: very interesting
Weird how that one that went off was *that* silent. Are these DIY primers that much weaker than factory primers?
Some .22 indoor rounds only use the rimfire primer without powder to get the bullet to deform into the rifling and go all through the barrel fast enough for target shooting, and I already mentioned my ears ringing from a primed empty case without powder or bullet being fired.
These seem *WAAAY* less energetic
What is the tool that has the little holes for the caps to fit in called? And where do you get it?
I call it a primer holder. I made it
To much work! Thanks 4 your time!
I have crap internet, so what did you use to make this, and how much of what? Please
Bob Ross of homemade priming compound. LOL!!!
First start by passing each ingredient through it's own sieve mesh, 200mesh would be great. This way you take the lumps out before you mix anything.
What kind of shellac to get? The chips to make my own or, the kind that comes in can for varnishing from the paint stores?
Bullseye Shellac is what I use
What is four item?
Is the potassium chlorate the same as the stuff the sell as a nutritional supplement?
no. Potassium chlorate is poisones. you mean KCl chlorate is KClO3. you can it make from kcl with an graphit anode + and nickl or iron kathode - with 5 volts and place both elektrode very close to gether under one inch.
Is this measurement in grains of weight or grains of volume?
Weight
The commercial producer I saw made trays of 1,000. It was plastic with shallow holes the size of the cups. A small vacuum pump held them in, and a small wand would suck up the backward cups. Then, he opened a plastic tub and used a plastic putty knife to smear the compound into them evenly. A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled. Slid into place, and the paper between pulled out. Rolled and let dry.
Can you elaborate on, “ A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled” I don’t understand this part. Also, do you have any diagram or more information regarding the commercial producer?
@George Echeverri the producer was Federal I believe. The plate for the anvils was very thin. Only the thickness of one anvil. A quantity was poured over it and wiped until one was in every hole.
What attachments did you use for your press to set the anvil in the cup?
The punch from my Lee .451 sizing die and a piece of steel threaded to fit the press
@@rifleshooter2 any leads on where to get the threaded steel?
@@jasongilley4032 I threaded it on my lathe
@@rifleshooter2 right on! I'll take 2 haha. Thanks for the info. Keep up the good work!
What is your failure rate for the two methods for 100 loaded? Thanks.
10%
@@rifleshooter2 That is on par with some factory made primers
What is the purpose of the powdered glass? Is it so there's more hard pieces to rub against the actual compound within the powder?
Also would fumed silica work?
It acts as a frictioning agent
It's like watching Bob Ross give a class on H48 creation.
When does he beat the devil out of it?
That's what i thought happy little chemicals lol
"Happy little chemicals... "
-Bob Ross, if he worked with the Weathermen
If you ever work with very fine aluminum powder, you have to be careful. It can be a very dangerous thing to work with if you don't know the dangers and how to avoid them. I'd even say it's the most dangerous of ingredients in this video. In any case, definitely do some research on the safety/dangers of aluminum powder and the other ingredients (either alone or mixed)... and don't work with them until you have learned and understand them. (I only learned after doing stupid/ignorant/dangerous things and am lucky that I was never hurt).
Yep. Ask the Germans about using aluminum powder in their doping mixture they painted on the Hindenburg to make it shine...........one reason it burned so quickly.
@@seawolfinternational5481 Yeah, aluminum powder is also part of many explosive mixtures. Things like KNO3 and many other chemicals mixed with aluminum powder become explosive... and there are also many thermite (and thermate) mixes with aluminum.
It's bad to get on your skin also. There's a reason they stopped using trace amounts in deodorant... Definitely would be wearing gloves.
very Bob Ross ish.. as well as educational
Hi,
Can modeling glue be better than shellac for the final step ?
The viscosity and final hardness may affect the final efficientcy of ignition. Shellac is a waxy product made from insects, beetles I believe or their shells. A pine resine if mixed thin enough might work. Both are cut/thinned by acetone/alcohol/turpentine, and have a unique characteristic of stopping stain bleed through (like wall stains from mold, tannins, dyes, chalk etc.) they are a good base sealer around primer and bullet to case joint for waterproofing ammo. Although I have used paint pens for that purpose with some success.
Wate what kind of sulfied the first sound you spoke seemed low. Something.
Could the unhappy powder be mixed in a slurry of say pure alcohol (say everclear) and then put in as a putty/honey consistency before putting in the anvil (this way it's a wet compound and the alcohol would evaporate out
It could be I haven't tried it
you can also use acetone,denatured alcohol!
Everclear has alot of taxes because its a beverage. Buy denatured alcohol from hardware store. Avoid taxes.
what is the ground glass
Glass that has been ground up very fine
Was that 6:1
Acetone 6
Shellac 1
?
Correct
Where did you buy/make the compounds? powdered glass? Couldn't find it on the internet.
Thanks
I ground the glass myself. Everything else I got from. Skylighter
@JDJ1963
Bullseye COE 90 transparent fine glass frit.
eBay
I grind it finer with ceramic mortar and pestle (cheap porous, ebay or Amazon)
Tumbler and ball bearing
Thanks
Did you use black alu powder made with charcoal to stop it oxiding and combusting? Good video.. promising
No I did not
Where does a person find the chemicals to make primer compounds?
Skylighter
Is this compound corrosive and do you need to clean your guns asap after using them
Yes
I mean, you don't need to clean between shots, or speed 100mph home to clean the firearm before it falls apart, but yes, the salts (sulphur and potassium chlorate) form sulphuric and hydrochloric acids when exposed to water, which the fouling in the bore/surfaces exposed to combustion gasses, will absorb out of the air. The gun won't rust apart on you in a couple days, but the corrosion damage is cumulative, so just make sure to clean it after every shooting session. Most priming made prior to the 1970's was made with compounds similar to this, and most of those arms are just fine so long as they were maintained. That's why the AR10 and Ar15 gas tubes are stainless and the gas system on the Kalashnikov pattern rifles is easily removed for cleaning, lessons learned from earlier self-loading military rifles (gas systems aren't generally disassembled in the field)
The fired primer, once the anvil is removed, did you just push out the firing pin strike from the previous shot and reuse it?
Yes
@@rifleshooter2 thanks for the quick response. How do they shoot?
@@0780marco I'm still working on them. I'm about 90% success
Is powdered glass not a respiratory hazard like asbestos?
I'm sure it is.
Are they corrosive? Thanks for the video
Yes they are
Is this a lead free formula?
I didn't add any lead
My advice, be sure and wash your hands thoroughly before taking a leak! 😂
Woah woah woah, wait a minute!
Are those pajama pants? 😎
Great video sir!
Thanks!
"we'll just paint a happy little chemical, yep, he lives right there, mhm"
Nice thank you for sharing your thoughts with us.
I have question.. what will happen
if I didn't add the anvils.
I don't know.
Nothing.
The anvil provides the firing pin a point of impact to ignite the the primer compound.
Without it nothing will happen.
Unless you're reloading Berdan primers and cases, nothing. Boxer primers must have the anvil. Berdan primed cases (usually, steel) have the anvil inside the primer pocket. They also require some specialized tools to deprime such as a hydraulic deprimer.
Then you have a percussion cap, suitable for use on your favorite muzzleloader.
There's a reason they call it an anvil......what is the sound of one hand clapping?
interesting thought, comparison of H-48 and Prime All both are respective and awesome, so a VS video not so much just compared to video...
Someone has been watching to much of Mr. Rodgers Neighborhood and Bob Ross.
Would it be safer to add the ground glass last? Its the abrasive used to trigger the reaction.
this guys like the pyro bob ross lol. all the happy little chemicals
Hell, listening to you made me think I was watching Bob Ross with all of the "happy chemicals", lol
Lol
is the fine ground glass something like a glazing for ceramics?
I have never used glazing so I couldn't tell you
While I was quite the shooter in my youth, it was always with factory made, modern primers. I never had a hobby cannon, etc.
I know that modern primers have an anvil as part of their design, but why do you need them here? Won't the paper disk along with shellac hold them together?
And if I may ask, what is the difference between a friction primer and a regular primer that's used in a modern gun? Yours look the same. (Though I am sure modern primers don't contain glass.)
I assume what happens with this friction primer is the ground glass becomes hot due to friction when the primer is "struck" and the heat sets off the unstable "stuff" in the mixture?
Lastly, I assume all the chemicals can be purchased at a chemical supply house?
By the way, shellac is used to treat the areas of wood where the grain changes direction. You apply the shellac and it prevents that area from absorbing as much stain. If you don't used shellac, the downward curve of your stock will be noticeably darker after applying the stain.
Learned that the hard way when I sanded down the stock of my Ruger 10/22 to treat some deep nicks and lighten the stocks tone a few shades. I always thought the stock a bit too dark for my taste. Live and learn- I was no less proud of my first "gunsmithing" job, lol.
I actually used that little carbine to compete against bolt action target rifles. While they of course beat me, it was not by much. They were shocked at how accurate that rifle was. The instructor was really impressed and asked me what my technique was. Being a kid, I had no technique, lol. I just knew that the Ruger 10/22 was a great gun. He said that if I put target sights on it, I could likely be as good or better than the bolt action 22s I competed against- pretty good for a carbine!
Anyway, thanks so much for this! I had no idea you could make your own primers- friction or otherwise.
Is it corrosive?
Yes
do you have a written prescription? could pass?
www.aardvarkreloading.com/
..the Bob Ross of primer compound ...
Where can I find the resources
Can’t find everything
Do u have a hardening agent in them? Or what would u recommend
The shellac is the hardening agent
90%rubbing alc. What I was told. Makes it a bit less touchy and easier to put back in primer cap. Let dry 24 hrs and you have primers. But I missed half the ingredients and how much of each because my internet sucks..lol
I done bought this and made no telling how many rounds the kit includes the hardening agent now. In my opinion it's not worth having. Takes me 2 hours to fork out about 50 rounds I could of bought for 10 bucks. By time I make 500 rounds I'll be dead.
@@w.e.s. The reason to have the kit is for when there isn't any ammo to buy at a reasonable price. Shortages are becoming more and more common.
I am looking for the ground glass, where do you get it?
You grind it
ruclips.net/video/zXf299smLeQ/видео.html
It's very easy with light bulbs and a coffee grinder....or just buy it ground
@@englishrupe01 that's what I did
Where do you get your anvils from?
I'm reloading used primers so I just reuse the old anvils
@@rifleshooter2 Gotcha, thanks for the reply and keep up the good work!
Is there a place where you can buy the cups and anvils?
not that I'm aware of
They come from the once fired brass after you de-prime them for reloading...take them and pop the anvil out..clean them however you want (tumber, ultrasonic cleaner) then follow the directions to reload the primers for reloading the ammo
Can someone write the name of the components for me? :((
could you substitute lead azide for the potasium chlorate so as to make a non-corrosive primer?
I don't know
and where one would get lead azide? When offering an advice do not offer wikipedia articles. It is better to stay silent
@@petruse8893 lead azide can ve made from stibnite, nitric acid, and sodium azide. perhaps one shouldnt assume others exp or knowledge of complete strangers?
go check out the sciencemadness website and forums. lots of educational information there on organic chemistry.
It seems to me ,that you have no idea what lead azide is and stibnite as well.The first contains lead and nitrogen in a very unusual compoundwhich is salt of lead and HN3 acid ,the second is a sulfide, which is also salt of antimony and H2S.Unless you are deep into alchemy and know the magic formula for transmutations,making lead out of antimony is not possible,more so turning H2S into HN3 is a sorcery on a cosmic scale
i came back here to ask another question about substituting lead picrate for the chlorate and saw your reply...i was confusing stibnite for metallic lead. likely tired when i wrote my reply. anyway in answer to your original question. nitric acid and metallic lead to obtain lead nitrate, then its a simple substitution reaction with water solutions of lead nitrate and sodium azide. lead azide will precipitate out. likely leaving behind a contaminated sodium nitrate solution.
the hard part of course is obtaining the sodium azide.
there are a couple sources like early airbags or synthesizing it from hydrazine sulfide, that said its all pretty toxic synthesis.
i found the lead picrate route to be fairly simple enough starting with ASA to picric acid then lead nitrate to lead picrate ..fairly easy relatively safe with proper PPE.
so anyway have a nice day and again, you assume much. but do you have anything useful to contribute like an informative answer to substitution of corrosive chlorates with lead picrate?
Do you use notebook paper or something thinner to put on top of the primer mix?
Just notebook paper
@@rifleshooter2 how do you cut the paper down to size?
@@scottyjordan9023 1/8 inch paper punch
@@rifleshooter2 thanks
Some people use cigarette rolling paper.
Think i’ll go back to flintlock when the primer crisis reaches this stadium.
were can i buy there new primer cups and anvils for sale?
Reuse the old ones
You can't, or make your own.
Are they safe from going off if you drop them?
As safe as standard primers it seems
@@rifleshooter2 Good to know. Tried making a mix a couple years ago that i got on youtube and it was way too sensitive for primers (even though it was meant for primers). I didn't trust it though. Did some drop tests and a few of them went off just from dropping them. (Don't wanna think what would happen if one went off while loaded in a magazine. It would likely set off a chain reaction and set them all off the first time the gun was fired).
I just closed my eyes and imagined this was Bob Ross making it
Let's put a happy little tree here.
What aluminum powder did you use , was it just aluminum powder or was it Magnesium-Aluminum ? Great info thank you .
Just aluminum powder
@@rifleshooter2
Ok , on skilighter they didn't show just aluminum powder. I will look else where for just aluminum powder . Thank you
@@kmackiss must be out
@@rifleshooter2 Do you know if it makes a big difference using a finer grain powder ? Aardvark recipe shows 60-100 mesh that converts to 150-250 microns . Smaller the grains the faster the or hotter burn rate ?
@@kmackiss
0.2gr aluminum flake is not for burn rate. Rather to make hot incandescent particles to ignite spherical powders reliably.
Check aardvarkreloading.com
Definitely a guy who doesn't mind getting his hands dirty
Why do you need ground glass?
It is to help the compound fire, by providing friction
@@rifleshooter2 Ah ok I guess that makes sense.
Wouldn’t it be safest to add the ground glass as the final ingredient? Just a though.
That’s what I do. Nothing will happen without the “striking” agent.
@@6Sally5 It detonates just fine without the glass.
Howdy, I need your help.can I use this for my Black Powder caps ?
yes.
good🤓
Any company supply primer anvils...
That is quite a lot of priming compound to make at once. To understand what that stuff can do set the whole amount off with some fuse. It is surprising how much of the paper is destroyed.
There is another priming compound recipe that produces a lead double salt that is entirely inactive until a small drop of water is placed in each completed primer - there is no handling of active explosive. It is also non corrosive. The preparation is much more complex than this simple mixture. Not impossible though, even without chemistry training.
I would greatly appreciate anything that could help me find that info online.
@@deucedeuce1572 I believe the primer mix is eph 20 - lots and lots of stuff on Aardvark reloading - here's a video on the hardest part of making it (not too hard though) -ruclips.net/video/YHE9KsImws4/видео.html - This isn't the best video to start but I happened to find it - Aardvark reloading and eph 20 is enough to find everything though.
Also here is a primer composition text that you will like.
www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html
Here is a primer course pdf - aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202019-06-28.pdf I think you will really like this one.
PS after you mix the composition you assemble the primers dry. The composition is not explosive at this point because the last chemical reaction does not occur until a tiny drop of water and isopropyl alcohol is added to the primer, which is then set aside to dry and then you are good - when dry you have an effective non corrosive primer.
are these primers corrosive?
Yeah. The potassium chlorate is the source of the corrosive salts.
@@ChucksSEADnDEAD Thanks for the input.
Would potassium Nitrate Sub for the Chlorate ?
I do not believe so
Unstable
@@thomaswallace3987 I thought Chlorate was the unstable one ?