You're welcome, JB and thank you for watching! check out my C6 reassembly video series if you haven't already as I go through step by step on reassembly. I also have valve body disassembly/reassembly videos as well and will be posting some topic-specific videos on the C6 starting tomorrow that will be helpful for you as well.
Just started the tear down of my flooded C6 in my 78 F-150. This is my first time doing lots of things, especially a trans rebuild. Thank you for these videos, they are clear, concise, you obviously know what you're talking about and you explain things so they're understood and not just heard. Because of these videos i am more confident than ever that i can tackle this
Thank you for the kind words, Devin! I appreciate the feedback and glad my vids will help you in your rebuild. Feel free to ask questions as you go...One thing I'll recommend is to purchase a thrust washer kit...The kit contains all new thrust washers to replace your pre-existing ones and also comes with a few different thicknesses of selective pump stator washer, which you may need if your case travel is outside of the .008-.044 range. I have another C6 video dedicated to measuring and adjusting case travel where I go into detail about this aspect of the process, in case you haven't seen it yet: ruclips.net/video/CQrpw_ggL_8/видео.html
@@nickstransmissions thank you! My transmission is pretty messed up as it was a flood truck, so I'm probably in for some hard parts. But I will definitely do my best to make sure that end play is in a good range👍
You're welcome, man...Please sub if you haven't already as I'll be publishing more C6 videos over the next week, this way you'll be notified once they're available.
Though I finished mine with your previous videos, this was still really interesting to watch. Although the car hasn't finished yet, I was able to drive it a few feet forward and back no problem, and all the gear selections seemed to work correctly as well, so that's promising. Your video's and help were essential.
@@nickstransmissions Meanwhile I've driven around 200 miles since the rebuild and everything works perfectly. No leaks, nothing. I do notice though when I check the fluid that it's already not as vibrant as it was fresh in the can. It's still pink-ish, but more muted in color. Is it normal for ATF to lose some of its color that quickly? If I could describe it in HEX colors, it went from #ffa2a2 to #edc4b9. It still smells good.
Awesome video, very helpful for a beginner like me to get familiar with the c6. One question, on the c6 do you know what would cause Reverse to stop working when the vehicle is fully warmed up? Reverse comes back every time when engine is shut off and vehicle fully cools but no reverse when fully warm, it just behaves like its in neutral. Forward gears shift fine, no other trans issues, just no reverse when warm. Thats the problem I have in my 86 F250 460. I bought the vehicle knowing it had a bad transmission and I paid a shop for a full trans rebuild+transgo shift kit and got it back with no reverse when warm. Not sure what needs to be replaced
Thanks, btenn - appreciate the kind words! Was reverse working at all times prior to the rebuild? Typically, when things work when temps are cool but fail when hot, something is worn out...In this case, I'd normally suspect the seals on the low reverse piston but they should have been replaced during the overhaul...The other possibility is the manual valve in the valve body is worn. But if that's the case you should have had this same problem prior to the rebuild. I'd take it back to the shop and have them repair it under warranty.
@@nickstransmissions Honestly, this all started long ago, I never took the vehicle back to the shop while it still had the warranty, I had started a new job and never had the time and it was not a daily driver vehicle so I left it like that. Now I have more time and figured I would try to fix it myself through the help of your videos. Before the rebuild if I remember correctly, the wheels would totally lock up when the vehicle was shifted to Drive. If I placed the shifter level to 2nd gear it would crawl forward but with no power, any other gear all 4 wheels would totally lock up frozen. I believe the shop said that during the rebuild they found a direct clutch welded to a steel plate or something like that. Is the low reverse piston seal located in the valve body? Or do I have to disassemble the whole transmission to get to it?
If it sat for a while outdoors or in a garage but still exposed to climate swings over the years, it's possible seals have hardened from lack of use. I'd yank it out and go through it...If you have a 4X4, rule out any problems with the T-case first but sounds like the trans has to come out. No - valve body has no low reverse seals - those seals are on the low reverse piston in the very back of the case.
@@nickstransmissions Gotcha. Yeah I think the shop probably only replaced the friction discs and the torque converter, and installed the shift kit but didn't replace any of the seals sadly. Forgot to mention it's a 2wd C6, also one last question, I noticed when I pulled the driveshaft that the tailshaft on the transmission seemed to have a lot of play vertically, like wiggling it up and down and side to side it moves about 1/4" in all directions. I don't believe that's normal right? I didn't notice and driveline vibrations or anything like that but seemed odd to have that much slop.
Sounds like worn bushings to me but there is a little bit of slop designed into the system to account for pinion angle changes, driveline articulation, etc as the vehicle goes over uneven surfaces or simply reverses then moves forward. Not an issue now since you'll replace all the bushings, including the extension housing bushing upon overhaul. When you replace the rear case bushings, install the Sonnax one-piece bushing and make sure you install it with bushing side with the groove inward towards the case...The bushing side with no oil groove faces out/you when installing it.
I don't remember the year, but the older C6 had an exhaust ball in the rear clutch piston that always faced the pan when installed correctly. The newer models had the exhaust in valve body. Somewhere in the mid seventies they switched from F fluid to Dexron/ Mercon fluid.. The C 6 was the worst trans for starting in 2nd gear. That governor, even if you breathed on it wrong would stick and start in 2nd gear. If you stopped and backed up a few inches, it would flush out the governor, then it would start in 1st. I learned later that if you put a 350 valve body check ball inside the governor valve, it would help with the 2nd gear starts.
Hi Peter, you're correct...Late 1976 was the change year to the low reverse hydraulic circuit where they updated the VB, gaskets and spacer plate to serve as exhaust/vent and eliminated the bleeder capsule in the low reverse piston. There was a whole slew of changes made to the C6 during that mid-lifecycle update that impacted nearly every area of the transmission...Folks working on a model year 1976 need to pay special attention to the date codes and parts they're working with in the event hard parts have to be replaced. Great tip re the quarter-inch check ball to prevent governor sticking, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the videos, very informative and thorough. I have a question about my ailing transmission. I have a C6 in a 77 Ford F-250 with a 460. The truck has been sitting for about a year, it started right up and shifted into reverse. I backed out of my garage, stopped, moved the shifter into drive, and nothing happened. The tranny spun free as if it was in neutral. The fluid was full, there are no leaks, the vacuum line and kick down lever are fine. I shut the engine off, waited about 10 minutes and started it up again. I shifted it into drive and now it worked. I have first gear until I stop and shift it again into reverse, then nothing again. This behavior repeats. It works after sitting for awhile, but only for the first gear I shift it into, then nothing. I plan on rebuilding the tranny and I have a new engine ready to install. I don't want to drive it and cause more damage to the transmission. Any idea what I might find wrong with it?
Hi Michael, thank you for the kind words and view. I'd suspect the forward drum's lip seals are likely very worn and perhaps a bit hardened...No big deal if you're going to be going back through the unit, all those lip seals get replaced with new ones in your overhaul kit.
at 0:15 the tag bolted on the servo cover is where you can tell the actual year model of this unit if its an '86 like you said it is it would say E6 and something else after that. even the valve body has a tag on it it too. I don't mean to sound like a troll here but it personally kind of bothers me that people discard those tags from these units because it makes it hard for somebody in the future to tell the exact year model and or to make a numbers match restoration if they ever wanted to do it themselves.
its an awesome detailed video by the way. The Ford C6 is a god of automatics from ford in terms of heavy duty brute strength and durabillity and fewer parts moving internally. I love these units personally too. The Ford C6 is one of my top favorite Automatic transmissions ever built. crazy fact too the Ford C6 was used in the original Bigfoot monster truck
Thanks for watching and the kind words, Connor...I don't think your comments on the missing Id tags, etc are trolling at all...They always get lost at some point, I see them still on their respective transmissions only about 30% of the time. You can still determine whether or not a given unit is period or model correct via the casting numbers on the case, valve body and other parts as needed.
Hi, I show the air check in the video, about 1/3rd the way in. If you're referring to a transmission dyno, very few independent shops have them due to high cost. Some large, performance-oriented reman companies test their units on a dyno.
.. first transmission i ever rebuilt was a 1990 Ford C6 from an E350 Club Wagon with 5.8 .. Transtar Complete Kit ...blue plate clutches, kolene Steels, & a New Street/Strip Cheetah Valve Body not in the kit .. 🧰👨🔧💯
Hi Jon, send it back if it's defective. Never knowingly install a bad part. Start an "item not a described" case if the seller wont voluntarily return/exchange it.
@nickstransmissions My son bought a 88 Ford F-150 and the timing was off so we got that fixed. After that I needed to take it to get a new exhaust put on it, but when I stated it and put it in gear it started making a screeching sound, so of course I turned it off. I restarted it while he was there with me, and I watched while he put it in gear and it started smoking and then made a loud pop. I have never attempted to work on a trans but after watching your video's I decided to jump right in. I was wanting to know if I could send you a few pictures to see what your thoughts are on my next steps since I have it torn apart now. Any help would be appreciated!
@@nickstransmissions I have tried to post this several times and it keeps getting taken down. I hope this one stays up. ruclips.net/video/ssO6g2iCYr4/видео.html
GM Daniel, I watched the video...The scratch marks inside the case are no big deal...The drums aren't out of balance but I cannot tell of those brownish stains are heat related or due to water contamination (they sort of resemble rust spots) as you were moving the camera way too fast over those areas. When filming, it's best to put the camera on a tripod, angle it so it faces down onto the bench then slowly display the parts you're wanting to film so that viewers can get a good look at everything. If they are heat related, especially the areas on the forward drum and you can see heat soaking on a good majority of the surface, I'd prob replace the forward drum...The direct drum's band surface can be sanded down with 400 grit sand paper sheets. Just put the drum on a towel and work the sheet back and forth along the surface until you de-glaze it...Then take a small straight edge with a flashlight and place the straight edge across the band surface. Then shine the flashlight on the opposite side - determine if you can see light poking through underneath the straight edge. If you can, the drum surface is warped and would need to be turned (or replaced with a non-warped drum). You also need to look at the crescent on the pump body - check to make sure it's not worn or damaged in any way...Then check the stator and pump body working surfaces for scoring or anything else unusual. Replace your flat steels with a new steel module along with your frictions, paper/rubber/gaskets, etc, bushings, vacuum modulator...Purchase the E4OD low roller clutch assembly and install that in place of the C6 roller assembly, which is located in the low-reverse clutch hub. Hope this helps!
@@nickstransmissions in your video you stated that you could put the E40D clutches in to beef up your transmission. Do you mind throwing me a link for those parts so that I can get them?
Thanks for these videos! I’m about to rebuild the C6 in my 69 F100 and it’s my first trans rebuild…..Your detail and explanations help a lot.
You're welcome, JB and thank you for watching! check out my C6 reassembly video series if you haven't already as I go through step by step on reassembly. I also have valve body disassembly/reassembly videos as well and will be posting some topic-specific videos on the C6 starting tomorrow that will be helpful for you as well.
This guy is on point with his stuff. Made me feel like I could jump right in and rebuild mine!!!
Thanks, Daniel - appreciate the kind words!
Just started the tear down of my flooded C6 in my 78 F-150. This is my first time doing lots of things, especially a trans rebuild. Thank you for these videos, they are clear, concise, you obviously know what you're talking about and you explain things so they're understood and not just heard. Because of these videos i am more confident than ever that i can tackle this
Thank you for the kind words, Devin! I appreciate the feedback and glad my vids will help you in your rebuild. Feel free to ask questions as you go...One thing I'll recommend is to purchase a thrust washer kit...The kit contains all new thrust washers to replace your pre-existing ones and also comes with a few different thicknesses of selective pump stator washer, which you may need if your case travel is outside of the .008-.044 range.
I have another C6 video dedicated to measuring and adjusting case travel where I go into detail about this aspect of the process, in case you haven't seen it yet: ruclips.net/video/CQrpw_ggL_8/видео.html
@@nickstransmissions thank you! My transmission is pretty messed up as it was a flood truck, so I'm probably in for some hard parts. But I will definitely do my best to make sure that end play is in a good range👍
You're welcome, man...Please sub if you haven't already as I'll be publishing more C6 videos over the next week, this way you'll be notified once they're available.
thanks for posting the full length version Nick!
You bet, Kevin!
Fantastic description of the full breakdown process. Just used this video as a reference while tearing into my c6. Time for rebuild!
Thanks for watching, STKshift - glad it was able to help you!
Though I finished mine with your previous videos, this was still really interesting to watch. Although the car hasn't finished yet, I was able to drive it a few feet forward and back no problem, and all the gear selections seemed to work correctly as well, so that's promising. Your video's and help were essential.
Thanks for watching, John! Glad my videos helped you navigate through your C6 rebuild.
@@nickstransmissions Meanwhile I've driven around 200 miles since the rebuild and everything works perfectly. No leaks, nothing. I do notice though when I check the fluid that it's already not as vibrant as it was fresh in the can. It's still pink-ish, but more muted in color. Is it normal for ATF to lose some of its color that quickly? If I could describe it in HEX colors, it went from #ffa2a2 to #edc4b9. It still smells good.
Awesome video, very helpful for a beginner like me to get familiar with the c6.
One question, on the c6 do you know what would cause Reverse to stop working when the vehicle is fully warmed up? Reverse comes back every time when engine is shut off and vehicle fully cools but no reverse when fully warm, it just behaves like its in neutral. Forward gears shift fine, no other trans issues, just no reverse when warm.
Thats the problem I have in my 86 F250 460. I bought the vehicle knowing it had a bad transmission and I paid a shop for a full trans rebuild+transgo shift kit and got it back with no reverse when warm. Not sure what needs to be replaced
Thanks, btenn - appreciate the kind words!
Was reverse working at all times prior to the rebuild?
Typically, when things work when temps are cool but fail when hot, something is worn out...In this case, I'd normally suspect the seals on the low reverse piston but they should have been replaced during the overhaul...The other possibility is the manual valve in the valve body is worn. But if that's the case you should have had this same problem prior to the rebuild.
I'd take it back to the shop and have them repair it under warranty.
@@nickstransmissions Honestly, this all started long ago, I never took the vehicle back to the shop while it still had the warranty, I had started a new job and never had the time and it was not a daily driver vehicle so I left it like that. Now I have more time and figured I would try to fix it myself through the help of your videos.
Before the rebuild if I remember correctly, the wheels would totally lock up when the vehicle was shifted to Drive. If I placed the shifter level to 2nd gear it would crawl forward but with no power, any other gear all 4 wheels would totally lock up frozen. I believe the shop said that during the rebuild they found a direct clutch welded to a steel plate or something like that.
Is the low reverse piston seal located in the valve body? Or do I have to disassemble the whole transmission to get to it?
If it sat for a while outdoors or in a garage but still exposed to climate swings over the years, it's possible seals have hardened from lack of use. I'd yank it out and go through it...If you have a 4X4, rule out any problems with the T-case first but sounds like the trans has to come out.
No - valve body has no low reverse seals - those seals are on the low reverse piston in the very back of the case.
@@nickstransmissions Gotcha. Yeah I think the shop probably only replaced the friction discs and the torque converter, and installed the shift kit but didn't replace any of the seals sadly.
Forgot to mention it's a 2wd C6, also one last question, I noticed when I pulled the driveshaft that the tailshaft on the transmission seemed to have a lot of play vertically, like wiggling it up and down and side to side it moves about 1/4" in all directions. I don't believe that's normal right? I didn't notice and driveline vibrations or anything like that but seemed odd to have that much slop.
Sounds like worn bushings to me but there is a little bit of slop designed into the system to account for pinion angle changes, driveline articulation, etc as the vehicle goes over uneven surfaces or simply reverses then moves forward. Not an issue now since you'll replace all the bushings, including the extension housing bushing upon overhaul.
When you replace the rear case bushings, install the Sonnax one-piece bushing and make sure you install it with bushing side with the groove inward towards the case...The bushing side with no oil groove faces out/you when installing it.
I don't remember the year, but the older C6 had an exhaust ball in the rear clutch piston that always faced the pan when installed correctly. The newer models had the exhaust in valve body. Somewhere in the mid seventies they switched from F fluid to Dexron/ Mercon fluid.. The C 6 was the worst trans for starting in 2nd gear. That governor, even if you breathed on it wrong would stick and start in 2nd gear. If you stopped and backed up a few inches, it would flush out the governor, then it would start in 1st. I learned later that if you put a 350 valve body check ball inside the governor valve, it would help with the 2nd gear starts.
Hi Peter, you're correct...Late 1976 was the change year to the low reverse hydraulic circuit where they updated the VB, gaskets and spacer plate to serve as exhaust/vent and eliminated the bleeder capsule in the low reverse piston. There was a whole slew of changes made to the C6 during that mid-lifecycle update that impacted nearly every area of the transmission...Folks working on a model year 1976 need to pay special attention to the date codes and parts they're working with in the event hard parts have to be replaced.
Great tip re the quarter-inch check ball to prevent governor sticking, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the videos, very informative and thorough. I have a question about my ailing transmission. I have a C6 in a 77 Ford F-250 with a 460. The truck has been sitting for about a year, it started right up and shifted into reverse. I backed out of my garage, stopped, moved the shifter into drive, and nothing happened. The tranny spun free as if it was in neutral. The fluid was full, there are no leaks, the vacuum line and kick down lever are fine. I shut the engine off, waited about 10 minutes and started it up again. I shifted it into drive and now it worked. I have first gear until I stop and shift it again into reverse, then nothing again. This behavior repeats. It works after sitting for awhile, but only for the first gear I shift it into, then nothing. I plan on rebuilding the tranny and I have a new engine ready to install. I don't want to drive it and cause more damage to the transmission. Any idea what I might find wrong with it?
Hi Michael, thank you for the kind words and view. I'd suspect the forward drum's lip seals are likely very worn and perhaps a bit hardened...No big deal if you're going to be going back through the unit, all those lip seals get replaced with new ones in your overhaul kit.
at 0:15 the tag bolted on the servo cover is where you can tell the actual year model of this unit if its an '86 like you said it is it would say E6 and something else after that.
even the valve body has a tag on it it too.
I don't mean to sound like a troll here but it personally kind of bothers me that people discard those tags from these units because it makes it hard for somebody in the future to tell the exact year model and or to make a numbers match restoration if they ever wanted to do it themselves.
sorry I sounded like a troll to anybody, just speaking part of my mind here. kind of venting a bit.
its an awesome detailed video by the way. The Ford C6 is a god of automatics from ford in terms of heavy duty brute strength and durabillity and fewer parts moving internally. I love these units personally too. The Ford C6 is one of my top favorite Automatic transmissions ever built.
crazy fact too the Ford C6 was used in the original Bigfoot monster truck
Thanks for watching and the kind words, Connor...I don't think your comments on the missing Id tags, etc are trolling at all...They always get lost at some point, I see them still on their respective transmissions only about 30% of the time. You can still determine whether or not a given unit is period or model correct via the casting numbers on the case, valve body and other parts as needed.
Me podrias explicar como la puedo probar antes de montar la caja al equipo? Me dicen que se le aplica aire a presion , no estoy seguro
Hi, I show the air check in the video, about 1/3rd the way in. If you're referring to a transmission dyno, very few independent shops have them due to high cost. Some large, performance-oriented reman companies test their units on a dyno.
Good video tnx
Thank you for watching, Alberto!
K code apply levers are a stock ford part E0TZ-7330-B. I think the ratio is 1.575, but I'm not positive.
Thanks, man - yea, that one was a stumper insofar as exactly where that lever comes from.
.. first transmission i ever rebuilt was a 1990 Ford C6 from an E350 Club Wagon with 5.8 .. Transtar Complete Kit ...blue plate clutches, kolene Steels, & a New Street/Strip Cheetah Valve Body not in the kit .. 🧰👨🔧💯
Sounds like a sweet build, William! Thank you for watching!
K lever is a late model factory lever, 1.575:1 ratio.
Thank you for the info, Greg. Appreciate it.
Hey Man, the sun shell I got on eBay was cut too short and it only comes haveway to the lugs of the 3rd/reverse drum… is this still usable?
Hi Jon, send it back if it's defective. Never knowingly install a bad part. Start an "item not a described" case if the seller wont voluntarily return/exchange it.
@nickstransmissions My son bought a 88 Ford F-150 and the timing was off so we got that fixed. After that I needed to take it to get a new exhaust put on it, but when I stated it and put it in gear it started making a screeching sound, so of course I turned it off. I restarted it while he was there with me, and I watched while he put it in gear and it started smoking and then made a loud pop. I have never attempted to work on a trans but after watching your video's I decided to jump right in. I was wanting to know if I could send you a few pictures to see what your thoughts are on my next steps since I have it torn apart now. Any help would be appreciated!
Hi Daniel, film a short youtube video, publish it and reply back with the sharable link so I can take a look.
@nickstransmission
ruclips.net/video/ssO6g2iCYr4/видео.htmlsi=vrKZTkTm6ANQ8IjC
@@nickstransmissions I have tried to post this several times and it keeps getting taken down. I hope this one stays up. ruclips.net/video/ssO6g2iCYr4/видео.html
GM Daniel, I watched the video...The scratch marks inside the case are no big deal...The drums aren't out of balance but I cannot tell of those brownish stains are heat related or due to water contamination (they sort of resemble rust spots) as you were moving the camera way too fast over those areas. When filming, it's best to put the camera on a tripod, angle it so it faces down onto the bench then slowly display the parts you're wanting to film so that viewers can get a good look at everything.
If they are heat related, especially the areas on the forward drum and you can see heat soaking on a good majority of the surface, I'd prob replace the forward drum...The direct drum's band surface can be sanded down with 400 grit sand paper sheets. Just put the drum on a towel and work the sheet back and forth along the surface until you de-glaze it...Then take a small straight edge with a flashlight and place the straight edge across the band surface. Then shine the flashlight on the opposite side - determine if you can see light poking through underneath the straight edge. If you can, the drum surface is warped and would need to be turned (or replaced with a non-warped drum).
You also need to look at the crescent on the pump body - check to make sure it's not worn or damaged in any way...Then check the stator and pump body working surfaces for scoring or anything else unusual. Replace your flat steels with a new steel module along with your frictions, paper/rubber/gaskets, etc, bushings, vacuum modulator...Purchase the E4OD low roller clutch assembly and install that in place of the C6 roller assembly, which is located in the low-reverse clutch hub.
Hope this helps!
@@nickstransmissions in your video you stated that you could put the E40D clutches in to beef up your transmission. Do you mind throwing me a link for those parts so that I can get them?
😎
Thank you for watching, Captainschannel!
International idi diesels did not have the same bell pattern as the 385 series engines.
The diesels had a semi-circle cut out at the bottom of the bell housing...If i didnt specify that in the vid, it's a miss on my part.
@@nickstransmissions The bolt pattern is diffrent
Ok, thanks...I may just remove that section from the vid and clear / remove this comment so viewers aren't confused...Thanks, Kevin.
To much talking
🤣