Easy Diesel Air Heater Install
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Diesel air heater unboxing and step by step installation in a shed, summer house or cabin.
The products shown in the video were bought and paid for by myself. I have setup a eBay network affiliate account and if you would like to help support my channel and you are interested in purchasing the items shown in this video the links below will take you to them on ebay. If you purchase an item using the links below I may earn a small commission.
Diesel Heater - ebay.us/LI8Buw
Upgraded fuel line - ebay.us/4i3dfh
Exhaust paste - ebay.us/yiR8Xr
The white nylon fuel line is the correct fuel line to use. Drilling a hole in the bottom of the fuel tank should be avoided, as the diesel will eventually eat the o-rings and it will leak. A pick up pipe fitted from the top of the tank will ensure the tank never leaks, and a fuel shut off fitted just after the tank is a good idea.
The pick up pipe is a great idea, wish I'd thought of that, thanks for sharing.
I think the local auto store will have diesel safe o-rings if needed . Worth a check , I use to work for a diesel remanufacturing plant and know they are out their in every size .
@@georgedeedsnotwords2162 Yeah, you should be able to find them. Nitrile ones should do the trick.
Can't you use a weighted filter like they use in 2 stroke blowers and edgers? The hole is in the top of the tank and the fuel is drawn in by the pump.
@@alext8828 Good suggestion Alex.
Just bought one for my Sprinter. Im putting in my Diesel heater. Im copying u. Thanks for making life easy...😮
Please add some mineral wool around the exhaust pipe exit to avoid burning the wood. The pipe may get very hot, maybe 300C that may start a fire.
Hi, since the first video I have added exhaust heat wrap. ruclips.net/video/JgS7HEZxiYM/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Adding a couple of lengths of exhaust pipe will help recover some of that exhaust heat. Some people use and old oil heater (like a water radiator) with or without a fan. The great debate is regarding the angle of the pump (solenoid). The cavitation causes air bubbles in the fuel that some say leaves a dry area inside that can wear out prematurely.
Great vid, thanks for the info. I'm about to install my 2kw heater in my van conversion. I'm making a few extra mods but this was a clear explanation. Thanks.
Thnx much! Just got mine today. The crap manual and a trash pile of parts was intimidating.
Now IV fitted mine into a insolated wooden shed, but what IV done was only exist the exhaust out of shed, I cut a 40mm hole pointing slightly down wards to out side...then incerteted a tight fitting tube then rapped it in exhaust rap to
1 block the hole up and isolate heat from the wood ect.
This is my second winter and all been good.
The reason he has the air intake plumbed outside is to 1: isolate any back draft and smoke during startup, if occurs, and 2: eliminate the need to have a make up air vent, which will draw cold fresh air in to the structure that would then need to be heated, reducing the efficiency of the unit. Also prevents over consumption of room air in the event adequate make up air isn't available.
I just fitted one in my garage workshop today, Opted for the fully contained portable version as I just wanted to get it up and running so I can get some work done. I used a 300W 240/12volt LED driver instead of batteries 20 quid off Amazon, way cheaper than any battery and a doddle to connect up. Having now heated my workshop to an unbearable 27C (I was wallowing in a heat bath) my first job is to build a caddy for the heater unit and 10 litre jerry can, then I'll finish insulating the doors which will save some fuel. FYI you can legally run these heaters on red diesel which will save you a few quid.
Nice, yes agree if you have a mains supply using a transformer is easier that batteries that need to be recharged, in my van the batteries are recharged via solar
@@hikescotland2360 Mike you have the optimum power supply for these heaters - well the best is a battery and a suitable float charger, if a mains connection is available. Using a DC power supply is flawed for a couple of reasons, at least.
Mains failure while the heater is running may well damage, or kill, the motherboard. They did not position it in a cool air flow and cool everything down with the shut-down sequence, for no good reason!
Running a DC power supply at low power is electrically inefficient - but that power supply must be much over-sized (for normal running) because of the high start-up load. Crazy waste of energy.
I also looked at power supplies but the chance of ruining the heater seems not worth it. I don’t often loose power but my luck is not good. It’s the cool down that will be absent if power is lost during heating. I found a 230 cold cranking amp motorcycle battery for $50 on Amazon. I’m using that. With a motorcycle maintenance charger.
Excellent walkthrough, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I notice the exhaust loops up to exit the shed. You might find that condensed water will collect in the lower part of the exhaust pipe.
Thanks, I'll make a slight adjustment to lower the fixing bracket on the outside at the same time I wrap the exhaust.
Thank you for the video. I had started installing this model in my van and the instructions were no help. Today I should be able to button it up right quick.
excellent video -thank you for sharing the install Sir
Thanks for commenting, glad you found it helpful.
You might want to put some asbestos tape around the exhaust where it goes through the shed wall, or you will get mice getting in there, also it will prevent this risk of setting your shed alight, (just my opinion)
Thanks, that's a great idea, I used Basalt Lava Rock Exhaust Wrap Roll on the van's diesel heater exhaust, I'll use the same to wrap around the exhaust a few times to plug the gap.
Exhaust heat wrap tape not asbestos tape. Asbestos tape is only a tape to warn something contains asbestos.
the importation, supply and use of all asbestos has been banned in the UK since 1999; the amphibole type has been banned since 1985
Source: www.gov.uk
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 Where would we be without our Governments making absolutely sure we are all safe? It's so re-assuring ;-)
Well done!
Excellent video and info, thanks.
Excellent. Thanks 🎉
U can get a pass thru port for the exhaust that looks much nicer and u won’t end up with mice….
Great video why didn't you fit it on the outside of your summer house .less noise from the pump .
It was easier to fit inside, I did fit the pump underneath the van, outside for my campervan to reduce the noise, also suspended the pump on cable ties to reduce the knocking.
Rather than that tight bend in the heat outlet, why not just face it the other way round?
You need a fuel strainer ahead of the fuel pump to protect it from debris.
He already said that
Where the exhaust has any chance of touching a combustible, shielding should be used such as a larger diameter piece of exhaust pipe or fiberglass heat wrap. Contrary to what is recommended, the fuel pump solenoid, works more efficiently in the vertical position.
Great walk thru. I bought the Diesel heater for my chicken coop. We can get pretty cold weather here (-10 to below -35C) in the winter and the cost of electricity is killing me. So I am building a solar system to power this and lights etc..I was wondering if anyone had used a diesel additive to prevent gelling?
I use STP Diesel Winter Treatment to stop the diesel gelling in my van's diesel heater as the fuel pump it located outside under the van, but it rarely gets to -10 c in Scotland so I don't know if it will work at the temperatures your experiencing
@@hikescotland2360 Thank you for your reply.. appreciate you taking the time.
it only 12v?
old car battery is good with trickle charger
If you had kept the air filter inside. Then you won’t be heating cold air continuously and the heater will run more efficiently
Hi, the air filter is for the combustion air intake. The air intake for the heating part is on the right hand side of the heater, in the room.
@@hikescotland2360 Mike, he is writing about the combustion air. If inside, the combustion air is likely more consistent in density, but for heat balance, it makes no difference. If it were inside, that air would have to be replaced via draughts (so cold air needed to leak into the room from somewhere).
23:25, I don't think that's the right direction for the fuel filter. The fuel should flow from the outside of the filter to the inside.
any reason for that?
@@jan_vyhnak Yes, the outer layer of the element is much larger than the inner layer and will catch more dirt. The other way around, the little inner layer gets plugged up with dirt right away and the outer layer won't get a chance to trap any.
easier than that pop it in the top attached to a tube that way it won't leak
Not bothered with fuel filter? If chance of touching exhaust pipe wrap in ceramic tape.
How much 3 inch ducting is allowable with how many degree bends total? Have a long run througout the car with bends and concered there would be too much back pressure on the heater fan if there are too many bends or ducting is too long.
Sorry, I've only ever fitted them with the supplied ducting.
Do you not get mice coming in through the exhaust hole when the heater is not in use
Hi, since this video I've wrapped the exhaust with heat wrap. I did a follow-up video,ruclips.net/video/JgS7HEZxiYM/видео.html
I'm 64 years old and I have never heard the term, "jubilee clip" Is that just local name for hose clamps?
Hi, yes, the screw tight clamps on the exhaust and heat duct hose
Great job. I’m doing something similar but brick building , not a criticism but do you think tank better outside and pipped in. Avoid bringing stinky fuel indoors. All best
Hi, I don't notice any smell from the fuel in the cabin or the campervan.
And I thought the sound of a ceramic heater was loud
Why not go through the gas tank cap?
Could you use red diesel , it’s a bit cheaper.
I think so, but I've no idea where to get it.
kerosene is cheaper and cleaner burning
@@alexandermorrison8431 These heaters were designed and set up for running on diesel, not kerosene. Yes they appear to run OK on 28s Redwood kerosene without undue wear to the pump (there is less lubricity in kerosene). But the bottom line is they are running less efficiently due to higher exhaust gas losses (due to excess air). Kerosene contains less energy per unit volume than diesel. It likely means it is cheaper to run on the cheaper fuel, but not by the amount first thought. In cases where the maximum amount of warm air is important, sticking to red diesel would be better.
Wat size is the flex pipe for the heat? I ordered mine but I wanna get more pipe before it's here
The inside diameter of the hot air hose is 75mm
What is the noise level on the kit mounted like that?
Sorry, I don't have a decibel meter.
Be careful there is a big fire risk at the exit!!!!!!!!!
Hi Jean, I made a follow up video - ruclips.net/video/JgS7HEZxiYM/видео.html
Hi. That was a whole kit, brilliant. Can you let us know what the make was, where bought from? And has it all worked well since you installed? Thanks
Hi, it's working perfectly, it's less than 2 weeks since I installed it and I've not had a lot of time to use it, will be using the summer house (and the heater) for more youtube videos in the near future.
I'm in the process of setting up an ebay affiliates account but it's not yet in place, sorry about the long links.
The heater was ordered from ebay -
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203666615235?var=504102073285
The upgraded fuel line kit -
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384817471310?hash=item5998e89f4e:g:uLgAAOSwNaJiTAdQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8HoXJIsNAHmMHhzIFrxDynzEpoFJi18Nq3lMtHJxQOa2wNdqKGZmYSbcxfa9IPdYtvLJMV5aa8R117Y7r3ybf8iFSK4sRLHo1YM9vgQQVKI0sc8P%2BgfwrkV3mV1Zoa7F1WXJ7t6Mpnc7g7svganFN0W0pUhdvkUxREpshUWlfXboQykeM9uPiivRNOVZnY7CF6lTlA%2FyaXHXJ8kRVQNWawa4IvSclusRPtMGXS1IVD7ft6eyk3ZuLzFLPQiKk9R5g2yvl8eC4yO5ZMDZZskp1kDs6XnQIzvVUMJ0fZIuDqZm%2FPgCgsHODvUzwbHRH37d%2BQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM_I3dmZFh
Exhaust paste -
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304679812504?epid=10011373895&hash=item46f054fd98:g:KWwAAOSwDtRjXDVk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOLe%2FaA4a%2BNi3u%2B2B%2FORojwhjj7vXprkTB9QU6SrWilngEsJ0hSHL99Jj9UdKM8lBlgCA%2Bw37SI3yhYFnmq4Xrw1FdQPiaoFnlBqwvaOqyvHQa%2BkcKhx2ExnNHZ77Wll%2BzZ%2BJpHgBHSE0kR3IKaCNy%2Fw2Hvw%2F5FUoF8emlG9gDupgoIPofSHuJBWcE5hpfC5EzV95XhKdnZ%2B524hPiRdMzc%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-b1jJqRYQ
I just got a complete 5kW kit (same as shown here) off AliEx Vevor bestauto store for 70 dollars, including delivery in 7 days. Came in 2 days. Amazing value.
@@hikescotland2360 Mike, please be aware that 8kW cheap chinese diesel air heaters simply do not exist. Look at the fuel delivery in the specification. A litre of diesel contains about 10.5kWh and these heaters can only deliver approx half a litre per hour. With inefficiencies (heat lost from the exhaust gases) even the ‘claimed’ 5kW heaters cannot deliver 5kW of warmed air. Just impossible. The chinese lie and people unfortunately are conned into believing them🙂
How long will those two batteries last ?
I normally use them for about an hour. I did a test for 90 minutes, at the start, fully charged the batteries were at 25.1 volts, after an hour under load they were at 23.1 volts, then after 90 minutes under load 20.5 volts. I was running the heater at max output. About an hour or so later the battery's are at 23.8 volts before recharging.
@@hikescotland2360 Thanks for the info' HS, I'm getting more and more curious about these heaters as a backup home heating system.
@@demonhighwayman9403 If you have mains supply, running indirectly from the mains is best. Beware that loss of mains can damage or destroy the motherboard by overheating, due to the shut-down sequence not being able to run if a DC power supply is used (a large over-powered DC power supply would be needed for the initial start-up and would run inefficiently all the rest of the time, too!). Using a battery with float charger (of slightly more power than the normal running current) is the best solution, of course, for your intende usage.