Good video, I too have purchased one of these set ups...I'm in agreement w/ your observations. a little more effort could have gone into this unit. Poor instructions. as an engineer and machinist i had to make some changes, but i would like to offer some tips. First knowing the approximate location of the cable thru hole, its easier to use a 20" long 3/16" electricians drill and from the engine side pop a starter hole just right of the brake booster bracket flange, then finish w/ your step bit from the inside ....yes the instructions are backwards on location Second the cable gets routed to the outside of the frame rail, not the inside, this keeps it away from the exhaust and cut the grommet at an angle and lastly i don't like the way the knob floats ...it needs some resistance to lock open and closed, it should have a friction adjustment to stop this. i can easily see the knob vibrating and turning in/out by itself causing a partial engagement and cause damage to the axle....why does it have to have push/pull and turn?....it should have just turn only and ball detent to keep it in position. I made some special mods to do this and lock it in place...also I modified the brass switch nut to accept the factory switch because i wanted to retain the weather pac wire connector. And lastly before you take the factory CAD off drive the pass front wheel onto a block...this will keep the axle fluid in the pumpkin
Hi there, Thank you for the feedback and information! It is greatly appreciated! I agree with a lot of what you are saying, and there is always room for improvement. Cheers! Greg
I'm glad I watched your video I have the same one and I didn't know to adjust it up by the handle by spinning because recently mine just started acting all sorts of stupid I had to winch myself out twice cuz my locker wouldn't engage good video thank you for the info
Thank you! My truck had no vacuum to the climate control when I got it, so there was no effect from having the vacuum lines to the axle disconnected. The brake booster vacuum was a separate line. So I ended up taking the single feed line that went to the transfer case and connecting that to my climate control so it would function properly. But in your case, I would just plug the single feed line that goes to the transfer case, and you could even remove the extra hoses from the transfer case to the axle as they aren't needed anymore. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment! Greg
I installed dynatrac locking hubs in my dodge 2500 could I leave fork engaged all the time since I can disengage my hubs?and just unhook the vacuum lines?
Hey there, thanks for the comment! Yes I would think that would be perfectly fine! As long as the left wheel is not directly connected to the right wheel you won't have any extra drag or resistance. The only thing to consider is that over time the fork may walk back and cause the axle to become disengaged without vacuum to hold it in place. If you could come up with something to hold the fork in place that would work fine! Thanks! Greg
@@GBProductions0 thanks for replying and you can remove c-clip on drier side of fork then slide fork over and reinstall c-clip on backside to hold it I just wasn’t sure about my axle being solid but to me it’s the same as my old 74 Chevy 4x4
Thank you very much! The only testing I did was a bit of driving in 4-low. Up until recently I thought it was fully locking up in 4-low but a couple weeks ago I tried to pull one of my other trucks out and I had only two wheels spinning on opposite corners. So I'm thinking there is something wrong with the differential itself. The rear is also supposed to be limited slip but it doesn't work either. Classic Dodge problems. Thanks, Greg
I installed the cable adapter and everything, but I’m getting a rattle and metal spinning noise from the CAD area almost like the connector is barely touching the spinning axle, but then I don’t know why the driver’s side axle would even be spinning if it wasn’t engaged at the transfer case.
Hmm, maybe check the adjustment on the cable and make sure the travel is enough to fully engage the collar. If the truck is in the air and there's no load on it, the driver's side axle may very well spin anyway. Was the CAD functioning properly prior to the swap to cable control? I have heard of the teeth inside the sleeve shearing off as well in extreme cases. Might be worth a look into that. Let us know how you make out. Greg
Hmm, does the collar sleeve that joins the axle shafts move freely when the fork is not installed? Does the cable move freely inside the casing when the cable is not connected to the fork or axle? Sounds to me like it is maybe just an issue of a sliding surface being dry and needing some lubrication. It could also perhaps be the routing of the cable from the axle to the cab. Make sure there are no really sharp bends in the cable casing, this could cause binding on the inside. Thanks, Greg
@GBProductions0 it's got a couple loops. It doesn't move freely when disconnected from the front axle. I pull it almost straight routed and it seems the back spine of it drags on the cad
That's odd. I didn't think there was a particular way that it had to be installed so that it would clear the housing. I'm not too sure without seeing it. But maybe take the cable out of the housing again and just double check everything looks okay visually and then try reinstalling it again and see if you can get the cable and fork to move freely in the CAD housing. It is possible that it could be a manufacturing defect as well in the CAD housing itself. Let me know how you make out. Thanks, Greg
Hi there, the front bumper came on the truck when I bought it. It's just a stock Sport bumper with LED pods in the driving light holes. Good to know! Thanks, Greg
That is correct. There is no change in functionality from the factory setup, other than the fact that it will actually work as intended from the factory as there is no delay or failure possibility due to the vacuum actuator that was replaced by the cable. It does lock the two halves of the passenger side axle shaft together, but that's it. Thanks.
Ever since I've put this in I've had grinding from the front end.... I'm so beyond stumped. I'm not happy with the product. They literally just slapped an airplane throttle on a housing. At least their customer service was willing to help, even if they didn't know what they were doing either. I've messed with this cad in some form or another 6x now.... I'm at my wits end.
Hmm, that's not so good. I'm not sure what could be causing that. Only think I can think if it's like my truck is if the collar sleeve that joins the front axle shafts together doesn't fully disengage then you could get some grinding noise with the sleeve chattering around the opposing axle shaft. Greg
Good clear quality video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Good video,
I too have purchased one of these set ups...I'm in agreement w/ your observations.
a little more effort could have gone into this unit. Poor instructions. as an engineer and machinist i had to make some changes, but i would like to offer some tips.
First knowing the approximate location of the cable thru hole, its easier to use a 20" long 3/16" electricians drill and from the engine side pop a starter hole just right of the brake booster bracket flange, then finish w/ your step bit from the inside ....yes the instructions are backwards on location Second the cable gets routed to the outside of the frame rail, not the inside, this keeps it away from the exhaust and cut the grommet at an angle and lastly i don't like the way the knob floats ...it needs some resistance to lock open and closed, it should have a friction adjustment to stop this.
i can easily see the knob vibrating and turning in/out by itself causing a partial engagement and cause damage to the axle....why does it have to have push/pull and turn?....it should have just turn only and ball detent to keep it in position.
I made some special mods to do this and lock it in place...also I modified the brass switch nut to accept the factory switch because i wanted to retain the weather pac wire connector.
And lastly before you take the factory CAD off drive the pass front wheel onto a block...this will keep the axle fluid in the pumpkin
Hi there,
Thank you for the feedback and information! It is greatly appreciated!
I agree with a lot of what you are saying, and there is always room for improvement.
Cheers!
Greg
It's a push pull and a turn because they literally just poached an airplane throttle for this. I'm not happy with the design.
Thank you for making video, I am planning to get a cable actuator. You may want to change your gear oil.
No problem! Hope it was helpful!
Yes it is overdue for a gear oil change. Not enough hours in the day!
Thanks,
Greg
Thank you for the video. I have 91 Dakota that has same problem same setup.
You're welcome! Glad you found the video helpful!
- Mitchell
Excellent job thanks
Thank you very much!
Greg
Installed mine a few years back ! Still works great 👍🏽
That is awesome!
I'm glad I watched your video I have the same one and I didn't know to adjust it up by the handle by spinning because recently mine just started acting all sorts of stupid I had to winch myself out twice cuz my locker wouldn't engage good video thank you for the info
Glad we could help. Thanks for the comment!
Hey what problems were you having with your posilock? Mine is struggling to engage and when it does, it keeps popping out of 4x4.
Great video
Thank you very much!
Greg
Great video. What did you do with the stock vacuum lines though? Did you plug them to maintain vacuum, and did you leave the stock connector on there?
Thank you!
My truck had no vacuum to the climate control when I got it, so there was no effect from having the vacuum lines to the axle disconnected. The brake booster vacuum was a separate line. So I ended up taking the single feed line that went to the transfer case and connecting that to my climate control so it would function properly.
But in your case, I would just plug the single feed line that goes to the transfer case, and you could even remove the extra hoses from the transfer case to the axle as they aren't needed anymore.
Hope that helps, thanks for the comment!
Greg
thanks!
I installed dynatrac locking hubs in my dodge 2500 could I leave fork engaged all the time since I can disengage my hubs?and just unhook the vacuum lines?
Hey there, thanks for the comment!
Yes I would think that would be perfectly fine! As long as the left wheel is not directly connected to the right wheel you won't have any extra drag or resistance. The only thing to consider is that over time the fork may walk back and cause the axle to become disengaged without vacuum to hold it in place. If you could come up with something to hold the fork in place that would work fine!
Thanks!
Greg
@@GBProductions0 thanks for replying and you can remove c-clip on drier side of fork then slide fork over and reinstall c-clip on backside to hold it I just wasn’t sure about my axle being solid but to me it’s the same as my old 74 Chevy 4x4
Great job of explaining each step. Very good filming and lighting while working one handed. How did you test to confirm you achieved 4wd lockup?
Thank you very much!
The only testing I did was a bit of driving in 4-low. Up until recently I thought it was fully locking up in 4-low but a couple weeks ago I tried to pull one of my other trucks out and I had only two wheels spinning on opposite corners. So I'm thinking there is something wrong with the differential itself. The rear is also supposed to be limited slip but it doesn't work either. Classic Dodge problems.
Thanks,
Greg
Good video
Thank you very much!
the shift pads are teflon
Good to know! Thank you for the info!
Greg
I installed the cable adapter and everything, but I’m getting a rattle and metal spinning noise from the CAD area almost like the connector is barely touching the spinning axle, but then I don’t know why the driver’s side axle would even be spinning if it wasn’t engaged at the transfer case.
Hmm, maybe check the adjustment on the cable and make sure the travel is enough to fully engage the collar.
If the truck is in the air and there's no load on it, the driver's side axle may very well spin anyway.
Was the CAD functioning properly prior to the swap to cable control?
I have heard of the teeth inside the sleeve shearing off as well in extreme cases. Might be worth a look into that.
Let us know how you make out.
Greg
@@GBProductions0 thanks for the reply! Turns out I needed to ad more gear oil.
I installed this kit, but the fork is stiff unless i assist the fork while someone pulls the cable from the cab. Any ideas?
Hmm, does the collar sleeve that joins the axle shafts move freely when the fork is not installed?
Does the cable move freely inside the casing when the cable is not connected to the fork or axle?
Sounds to me like it is maybe just an issue of a sliding surface being dry and needing some lubrication. It could also perhaps be the routing of the cable from the axle to the cab. Make sure there are no really sharp bends in the cable casing, this could cause binding on the inside.
Thanks,
Greg
@GBProductions0 it's got a couple loops. It doesn't move freely when disconnected from the front axle. I pull it almost straight routed and it seems the back spine of it drags on the cad
That's odd. I didn't think there was a particular way that it had to be installed so that it would clear the housing.
I'm not too sure without seeing it. But maybe take the cable out of the housing again and just double check everything looks okay visually and then try reinstalling it again and see if you can get the cable and fork to move freely in the CAD housing. It is possible that it could be a manufacturing defect as well in the CAD housing itself.
Let me know how you make out.
Thanks,
Greg
Where did you get your front bumper? Sent on on eBay for this kit for $100.
Hi there, the front bumper came on the truck when I bought it. It's just a stock Sport bumper with LED pods in the driving light holes.
Good to know!
Thanks,
Greg
Just to be clear, this mod is NOT a locker and does not “lock” the two axles, it merely makes the dif positive track, right?
That is correct. There is no change in functionality from the factory setup, other than the fact that it will actually work as intended from the factory as there is no delay or failure possibility due to the vacuum actuator that was replaced by the cable. It does lock the two halves of the passenger side axle shaft together, but that's it.
Thanks.
@@GBProductions0
Thank you sir.
Much appreciated!
Si le queda a una Ram 3500 año 99 y como lo puedo con cegir
Creo que cabría en un 3500 de 1999. Lo acabo de pedir en línea, hay muchos sitios web que venden kits como este.
👍💯😎🐬
And add lock out hubs to save on wear all 5 front u joints
Ever since I've put this in I've had grinding from the front end.... I'm so beyond stumped. I'm not happy with the product. They literally just slapped an airplane throttle on a housing. At least their customer service was willing to help, even if they didn't know what they were doing either.
I've messed with this cad in some form or another 6x now.... I'm at my wits end.
Hmm, that's not so good. I'm not sure what could be causing that. Only think I can think if it's like my truck is if the collar sleeve that joins the front axle shafts together doesn't fully disengage then you could get some grinding noise with the sleeve chattering around the opposing axle shaft.
Greg
Sealant on your wrench! Yikes tools that show use! Proper repair or tool cleanliness hmm your mind wonders from the end goal?
Someone teach this guy how to pronounce composite
Or Speak a Little Quicker.......
What's with the annoying music?