To save losing the core into the tyre, remove tube from tyre at least enough to get the valve part out, use a peg to hold the core in the right place inside the tube whilst you fill up the slime, then it's easy to push the core back into the valve stem and the whole thing us more manageable without needing 3 hands.
@@agrt4889 but I didn't leave it out. I spoke about how if it falls into the tube, you have to remove the tire and pinch the valve to move it back into place. If you follow this tutorial and don't drop the valve, then you won't have a problem...
Presta valves are the worst thing in bicycling. I always just change them for car valves ASAP. But nice video, good trick if you want to use the presta.
Good luck! I don't know if you saw the comment I pinned about pinching the tube on the back side. You'll be able to feel the valve core between your fingers and hold it in place. Let me know how it turns out.
Okay, you got me at the lining up the tire logo with the valve stem. What do you mean by this? And when you lost the core and said you had to go between the tire to push it in, can you explain that too? Thank you.
Yeah, so the little valve core can slip inside the tube itself. I had to feel for it by pinching the tube to see where it went. Kind of like finding the string that slips inside your hooded sweatshirt. You have to pinch it and move it back up into the valve stem itself. And people like to like up the tire logo with the valve stem because it makes it easier to find the valve stem. Look for the logo and your valve stem is right there. I recently went tubeless and I line mine up opposite so now when my logo is up in the air, my valve stem is on the ground. Just little tricks for preference really.
Tried it but the core threads started bending and snapped off in the valve head. It looks like the threads at top are flanged out to keep the head from backing off. You made it look so easy. How do you turn the cap to cut those threads without the torsional strength just ripping the valve head off?
I've never seen any crimped that much that it wouldn't unscrew. I've never seen them flanged out, just a few threads flattened on the end. Do you have enough threads left to screw it back on or did it ruin the valve?
Hi Nathan Some tube manufacturers have tubes that can be removed just as is depicted here on this video. Others are as you described them. The secret is to file the core threads down on the end, just above the little cap. The cap can then be twisted over the area you just filed down with plyers as described in the video. Don't get too carried away with the filing process 😯, a little resistance at the tip of the core threads is helpful to ensure the cap stays on 👍.
@@RoadandReel i switched over to conti crosskings protection on my xcaliber 8 and drilled out rims to use schrader stm slime tubes. I live in a world of thorns and swapping tubes is just easier and schraders are more available and cheap.
If you lose your core, pull the tube and push the core back in place. It's frustrating, but not too difficult. I've had to do it before. It takes about 10 extra minutes.
To save losing the core into the tyre, remove tube from tyre at least enough to get the valve part out, use a peg to hold the core in the right place inside the tube whilst you fill up the slime, then it's easy to push the core back into the valve stem and the whole thing us more manageable without needing 3 hands.
Great advice! I ended up doing something like that on the front, but didn't have a a peg. It still made it a lot easier being able to pinch the tube.
You omitted the most important part! How to retrieve the lost valve!
Ha, that's more of a trial and error situation 😁
He's right, that was a very crucial thing to leave out and now I won't follow this tutorial
@@agrt4889 but I didn't leave it out. I spoke about how if it falls into the tube, you have to remove the tire and pinch the valve to move it back into place. If you follow this tutorial and don't drop the valve, then you won't have a problem...
Presta valves are the worst thing in bicycling. I always just change them for car valves ASAP. But nice video, good trick if you want to use the presta.
This is the EXACT video I needed to see. Thanks man.
No problem, glad it helped! I have a tubeless conversion video as well. Take care!
Thanks man, gonna try your method tomorrow ✌️
Good luck! I don't know if you saw the comment I pinned about pinching the tube on the back side. You'll be able to feel the valve core between your fingers and hold it in place. Let me know how it turns out.
@@RoadandReel will do, let you know in the morning, best regards from sunny Scotland
Okay, you got me at the lining up the tire logo with the valve stem. What do you mean by this? And when you lost the core and said you had to go between the tire to push it in, can you explain that too? Thank you.
Yeah, so the little valve core can slip inside the tube itself. I had to feel for it by pinching the tube to see where it went. Kind of like finding the string that slips inside your hooded sweatshirt. You have to pinch it and move it back up into the valve stem itself. And people like to like up the tire logo with the valve stem because it makes it easier to find the valve stem. Look for the logo and your valve stem is right there. I recently went tubeless and I line mine up opposite so now when my logo is up in the air, my valve stem is on the ground. Just little tricks for preference really.
Nice hand. I like the video.
Super helpful! Thanks
Glad it helped!
Tried it but the core threads started bending and snapped off in the valve head. It looks like the threads at top are flanged out to keep the head from backing off. You made it look so easy. How do you turn the cap to cut those threads without the torsional strength just ripping the valve head off?
I've never seen any crimped that much that it wouldn't unscrew. I've never seen them flanged out, just a few threads flattened on the end. Do you have enough threads left to screw it back on or did it ruin the valve?
Hi Nathan
Some tube manufacturers have tubes that can be removed just as is depicted here on this video. Others are as you described them. The secret is to file the core threads down on the end, just above the little cap. The cap can then be twisted over the area you just filed down with plyers as described in the video. Don't get too carried away with the filing process 😯, a little resistance at the tip of the core threads is helpful to ensure the cap stays on 👍.
Those bontrager wheels are paper thin. Constant flats
Yes they are. I really wish Trek would have included better rims on a $850+ bike. Since I've gone tubeless, I've had way less problems.
@@RoadandReel i switched over to conti crosskings protection on my xcaliber 8 and drilled out rims to use schrader stm slime tubes. I live in a world of thorns and swapping tubes is just easier and schraders are more available and cheap.
Do not attempt what this guy is doing. You will lose your core.
If you lose your core, pull the tube and push the core back in place. It's frustrating, but not too difficult. I've had to do it before. It takes about 10 extra minutes.
Seems that the core is still in the tube!
okay so that method is really sucks
Yeah, but it's the only way unless you completely convert to tubeless.