Such underrated content! Come on, Almighty RUclips Algorithm... give this man the recognition he deserves already!!!! Very inspirational! Thanks for the motivation to pick up my brush and slap some paint onto something today!
Haha...thanks mate! Judging from my analytics youtube is showing it to people, they are just not clicking it ;) just means I need to make better content to convince those that do to stay ;)
You probably dont care but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can watch all of the new series on Instaflixxer. Have been watching with my brother these days :)
This is not only good for beginners, but as someone whos been in the hobby for a while, I never thought to have the model actually wet when doing the final sanding (so obvious UUUUUUUGH), or using super glue as a filler. Subbed, keep it up!
17 years ago I got into all of this because I adored the magic of the minatures. My first Marine looked appalling, I tried to rush in everything which I had observed. A year or two later and I was close to the skill of this gentleman. However, Life and the way it directs us later led me to giving up on my hobby. Well, now I'm back and it's just like starting all over again. Now it seems even more challenging than it did way back then but I'm thankful for this gentlemans advice. I will also look into purchasing some of those paint brushes too as the starter set with 13 paints (recently purchased) comes with a limited brush imo.
If anyone was wondering- the Patreon content is absolutely worth it. It has been extraordinarily helpful as I paint a World Eaters army. Highly recommended if you actually enjoy painting your miniatures and want to improve.
@@Dante-ot8xg Mephiston Red midtone with Khorne Red glazing for shadows and Evil Sunz Scarlet for highlights. Skullcrusher Brass trim. I used a desaturated Liquitex violet ink for undershading as well.
An important tip that I think most good painters like you often forget to tell us but found to be the thing that helped me the most to get at a level where I could actually apply some techniques from good painters (been painting for a bit less than a year now).. Dont be too hard on yourself.. accept that your first dozen of miniatures will look decent at best. Dont over try to do stuff you aint feeling comfortable with at first.. I mean I tried too hard at first and always ended up striping my models for the like 3 first months.. noticing I wasent getting much better for some reasons.. then I went for a battle ready look for a few minis and noticed that each mini I actually ''finished'' even tho it was very simple was naturaly looking a tad bit better than the one before.. Went from being ashamed of my miniatures to be actually surprised that they started to turn out on par or better than many paint jobs on reddits.. from there I started to be confident enough to actually learn to introduce new techniques without even actually thinking about it. I mean it easy to feel like your are terrible in this kind of hobby as every guides, box arts, etc are 90% of the times made by painters who litteraly painted hundreds of miniatures and in many cases have years of artistics backgrounds... Trying to paint at their level is just like starting to do MMA casualy and expect to be a UFC champion cause you watched a few combats and try to copy x fighter style.. it wont happen.. just do your thing and learn along the way.
"When highlighting, say NO to white!" Yes, sir, I've watched enough of your videos to know that Ice Yellow is apparently the color of choice instead. :D (I have to get some when I can make it to a store that carries AV!)
Not only ice yellow, it's about picking a color that is a bit more saturated and not as big as a value step. It can be some wolf grey for cold highlights or a skintone for reds, etc.
@@trovarion it would be awesome if you did a video on the recommended highlight and lowlight colors for all the base primaries and maybe first blends!! Or just tell me what you would recommend for green 😁 Because I will have black in the scheme I was planning to darken with black. But for lightening I didn't know if I should whiten the base coat or find a green that just looked a shade or two lighter, but I don't really want to yellow-ize or neon it. First video of you I've seen, but I liked it a lot! Only have a handful of models done so far.
@@mokane86 >>>it would be awesome if you did a video on the recommended highlight and lowlight colors for all the base primaries and maybe first blends!!
@@trovarion yes of course no "correct" color, but to see you go around the wheel with some of your recommendations would be good and useful. I will have to test my green scheme a little bit, but for the base tone I'm considering, maybe a creme, beige, or light tan will work..or a grey or non-mellic silver..? Olive might be safer.. haha Some day when it's committed to actual models I'll let you know how the finalized army scheme turns out. 😂 Thanks for the reply and I'll keep watching!
Thanks for this video. My current goal is to get miniatures painted well enough to play on the tabletop. Getting to play will help motivate me to go further with painting. Note: I like using PERFECT PLASTIC putty (deluxe materials) for filling gaps. It is creamy, cleans up with a wet cloth or brush, easy to sand when dry, and has low shrinkage. This product is used in larger models, but I use it for filling small gaps and I can use a damp paint brush to manipulate it when first applying it.
I recently got into 40k and saw a tutorial where they were using the citadel paints for painting a necron and space marine, since I didn't have those colors I looked for equivalents for the ones I have purchased for miniature painting of other previous projects and the end result is not the same, but different, which made me enjoy and continue with my own take on the painting of more necron units I have
This was a terrific, informative video. I subbed to your Patreon last month and it was a great investment -- I really enjoy the way you break things down differently on RUclips and the Patreon videos. Keep up the good work.
Interesting video. Looking forward for more! Some random ideas for videos that would be awesome to see from you: 1. tutorial on painting terrain or a piece of scenery to high standard 2. how to paint vials, syringes, hourglass (transparent container with something inside) 3. your favorite art books and magazines, that' can help improve painting skills
Love the content. You did inspired me to make a comment (I do not frequent the comments or make comments, yet here I am). Color Theory videos. What are complimentary colors, tertiary colors, color harmony, or monochromatic +ink/contrast? How do you decide?! I have been painting for over a decade now and interested in expanding my perspective on choosing colors, to step outside the box and blend all colors in to some harmony. I am want to explore new colors to opens up more possibilities. Create something new, never seen by the viewer. Deceptive color magic. Giving purpose and setting. etc. I will stop there, I am passionate but still new to the game. I really wanted to ask: How do you process (see) color when you got to paint your miniature/ diorama? Which color types do frequent most (above or none of the above)? Fascinated with exploring the 4 dimensions of color theory. And would be very interested to hear your theory on color. Thank you always! *peace*
Holy smokes dude, I only found your channel last week and it is blowing my mind. I am currently in isolation and your videos are making it flyby. Honestly i've not seen a more informative source of content. I'm even considering a GD entry next year :-). Any way cheers, great stuff! I will be joining you once I get through all the free vids :-D
I have to thank you for your video on the war suit. I implemented some of the techniques to help with some Dark Angle vehicles. now I am tempted to go back and repaint some of the old ones.
Another fantastic video. #10 and beyond we’re the best in terms of advice for me, I paint at a higher level. Cheers Torvarion! From Adelaide, South Australia :D
Moving paints to dropper bottles. This channel is definitely my favorite now. How do you transfer it without wasting much of it? Put water in towards the end and some medium?
In reference to the bonus question, the 30' vídeo of the hydra freehand on the round shield blow my mind and is to understand that not everyone have the patience to go trough It. Nice nail grooming video btw! (Srry 4 bad english)
Wanted to say that this was awesome. Thank you for giving a better than art school level of knowledge to the community! Liking and commenting to boost you in the algorithm :)
Thank you for another great video with quality information as usual. By the way i LOVE 💘 the battle damage/weathering on the Tor Garadon, its just as breathtaking as the baller shield from the Ogroid Myrmidon masterclass. True masterpieces from the master himself 🙇🙏 Thank You.
Some great insights. Getting back into warhammer for the first time since 3rd. So gonna be tackling all kinds of painting projects in the near future. Feel like going with the classic Crimson fists with a scheme heavy on shadowing and highlights to bring out the detail where it's a scheme that is fairly basic.
for the algorithm! What a great teacher. Succinct and brimming with wisdom. If I were you I would work in some novelty videos for more views. The critiquing viewers miniatures was awesome, would love to see more.
Beastgrave orks on the golden demon shelf? Hehe, can't wait! Anyways, very concise vid, as usual. However, I do look forward to you talking about colour composition in depth though!
Thanks for answering my question! So surprised to see my name in the video haha weird experience. Btw i love your more in depth videos thats longer and show more advanced techniques. The myrmidon videos for example. Love it, keep it coming trov!!
More suggestions for questions: Pushing contrasts and placing highlights: I've seen the artist "Bird with a Brush" taking pictures of the minis a loading them into programs to push contrasts and finding where highlights should go. Like an artificial, moveable zenitial priming. Do you any programs like that to do the same? I could image a program that could place a lightsource (or lightsources) but I don't know the name. Also how far can and should you push a contrast? (Odd question perhaps, maybe the answer is so you can see the difference at an arms lenght, this is probably a "you must do it to trick your brain to make it say wow and forget that it does't look naturalistic" question/anwser/situation)
You can use photoshop. It has a 3D feature where you can "stick" an image onto a plane, and place a global light or area lights. You can influence the specularity of the plane so you can see how the light reacts to your image.
Great video :) I've been playing around with oil paints after watching a couple James Wappel videos and it's been fun, but messy af. Still trying to get used to only having ~15 colors to work with instead of the normal drawer-full we all normally have access to.
Just thought I'd mention, citadel paints are really good if you're colourblind like me. I can't see red, but with GW specifically naming their paints and having their basic painting guides (and what colours are used to shade/highlight what) I can confidently pick the right colours (ironically, I'm very good with red and orange). Their pots are terrible though.
Suggestions for the next 10 questions video: How does it look like when a colour is thinned too much with water? Can it be made good again or does one have to start over? A Vallejo Glaze medium or a Vallejo Thinner medium does not seem to make the paint thinner as such (viscosity?) but it does make the paint less opaque so how do you mix to the consistency of a filter without breaking the mesh that holds the pigment? Do you use one brush for mixing on the wet palette and another to paint with as not to get paint up into the ferule? Or is it ok to get paint in the ferrule and use the paint in the brush and the swish it off in water before going for the next dip? I've just heard of Anti-Zenitial priming. How does that work? What sort of lighting do you use on your miniature paint table? I use "daylight" bubl (6500K) Best Regards Peter Rasch Lageri, Denmark
The question about switching brushes for mixing and painting is a very good one. If I don't switch my brushes age very fast, if I switch most of the color gets lost on the paper towel and the painting water. I consider myself a good and experienced painter but this is the one thing I still struggle with and feel uncomfortable.
I can offer a little insight about additives like glaze medium and thinner medium (and it can apply to a lot of other additives as well). By itself, things like glaze medium aren't really designed to thin paints out on their own because they're composed of whatever the paint medium happens to be (i.e. acrylic medium); in the case of thinner medium its usually just acrylic medium, though I believe glaze medium is a mixture of acrylic medium and flow improver. In both cases, its intended that you add more water as well; essentially, the additives are providing more of the binding medium so that when you add water you can add much more before you reach the point where the medium can no longer bind the pigment and it simply breaks apart. If you take a look at the acrylic glaze mediums you can find sold in an art store (like Liquitex or Golden) they provide you with directions for use which include a general suggestion on how much water to add and honestly, they might on the Vallejo brands as well but the printing on the bottles I usually get is *way* too small so I can say for sure.
Excellent video! A question for next time: do you highlight much when using a metallic scheme? I typically do a bit and found glazing was a smoother alternative, but it was far too time consuming.
Best equipment tip starting out; get good light. It will help alot. Wish I would have done that waaay earlier. Much more important than brand of paint or brushes imo
The thing I've learned here is, there is no one answer... you have to practice and try different techniques, paints and brushes to find your own style and learn how to best use the tools for what you personally need at the time. Practice is key.
Master classes are going to appeal to a tiny audience so for them to make enough money to be worth it you're going to have to charge extra for those. When my wife wants that extra information for her art, she takes small group classes that cost extra money but she gets that extra attention from a pro to help her get to the next level.
They don't want to give away their secrets! What would be cool is if someone recorded their master work and fast forwarded the 20 hours into 20 minutes with just a dozen brief regular speed carve outs for some major update check in/thoughts.
@@mokane86 That's 100% untrue. I have 100+ videos on youtube and i constantly "give away secrets". RUclips is just a different medium, it is about being entertained and people don't watch 30 minute painting videos, but they still take a week or more to produce. And when you make 28$ in add revenue for a full work week, how is this sustainable? People that want to hear funny 10 minute stories about their favourite toys are the majority of audience on youtube and this type of video gets promoted by the algorythm. a 30 minute lecture type video that is aimed at improving your skills does have 0.1% of that audience. I have done that type of video and people didn't click it. We got to eat and pay the rent too - so what options do we have? We adapt our content on youtube to just be entertaining and not educational, or we have a university style/lecture based channel that is pay to view for the people that REALLY want to push beyond their current skills. Or the THIRD option: We work another job and there is no videos.
@@trovarion the give away their secrets part was ment in jest! Thanks for putting in time to help out people looking for advise and inspiration. Besides the talented painting you also do a good job with video editing and added humor! 👏👍
Hello. I just discovered your channel and this first video I saw seemed very educational to me. I subscribe right now and will be watching the videos you have already made and the ones you are uploading. Thank you so much. -Hola. Acabo de descubrir el teu canal i aquest primer video que he vist m'ha semblat molt educatiu. Em subscric ara mateix i aniré mirant els videos que ja has fet i els que vagis pujant. Moltes gràcies.
So in the vein of this video, here's a question for a possible future installment; how do you balance a paint job between ease of readability and capturing the interest of the eye and brain? As a little bit of clarification, I've heard other painters talk about the dangers of making a paint job on a miniature too simplistic and therefore boring and making it too complicated and chaotic, and therefore unappealing but I haven't really seen/heard any sort of explanation or conjecture on what that balancing point might be. And yes, I realize this is a complicated question that can't be answered with a simple, quick response but any insight is welcomed.
Very good video! Id contest some explicit and implicit statements on paint quality and usability as overly simplified, but given the target audience I guess it is justified.
how do you choose which paint? when looking at a red acrylic paint, red craft paint or red acrylic ink how do i know which kind of paint to use when? (on an aside why dont mini painters use non paint materials like foil leaf? or resin?
@@trovarion yeah of course. I get it, but do you use your own medium mix it do you just use water. Flow improver, retarder. Just kind of in general. Maybe for a base, a layer, and glaze
I agree with you on the new crop of Citadel paints, great and vibrant colors, very expensive for barely half of a Vallejo paint bottle and the paint pots are designed to let in air forcing the painter to have to return to the store to buy more. It's more GW dickery-fuckery.
If you take a moment to clean the rim and the lid every now and then, and avoid getting paint in there anyhow, and close them properly after use, it's really not as drastic as you make it seem. Paint pots require care just like your brushes or any other tools (that said, I'd prefer dropper bottles too!)
Useful as ever, but where can you buy the empty squeezy paint pots - and don't you waste a significant amount of paint getting the Citadel paints into those?
I've always believed that expensive equipment only increases your power level by 10 percent. If you're at level 10 then that measly extra 1 point is going to barely impact your work overall and you should refocus your effort on improving your knowledge and techniques. But on the other hand, if you're at level 100 then that extra 10 points is a difference between a good piece and a GREAT piece.
I have a sculpting question: I have the optional parts for the great unclean one and want to build a body. Knowing you are in Austria too, what would you recommend me to get as a main material? US channels always show stuff that is hard to get or super expensive
Great video, thanks again for sharing with us. Did have a question, what is the name of the female figure/bust you were painting and do you know where I guy can get one? Thank you!
so to increase the value you dont use white.. you use cold yellow or something? and to reduce it you use black or do you? you said i can use a color similiar to the base color, i did that, that looked good, but then how do i continue to increase the value, i want to just test around and very quickly with white it goes extreme and the midtone is gone with just a blob of highlight
0:30 i hear you. I am ready to move beyond the level i'm at. I am currently able to brush paint on without splashing it all over myself and entire room. Ah, crap... no i'm not.
It was more like you implied it. ;-) Because at 14:00 you were talking about not going too cheap and your example was Golden paint on Jackson's Art. The high flow acrylic line is more suitable for airbrush (I'd use it for that).
@@Holztransistor yeah, i said dont go to cheap and then showed a proper acrylic color as an example that still gives you twice the ammount of gw. it was just an example, no need to be nitpicky. I know it's a national sport in Germany ;)
There is no golden rule, it differs with paintranges and even colors within the range. I know beginners don't like this answer, but painting unfortunately has a lot to do with experience - as in training with the colors (and brushes and mediums/water) you have. That said layer is almost undilluted, just enough so the paint flows and takes a max of two layers to cover. Glaze is usually see through, which ultimately builds up your gradient, so: try to get a mix that is not grainy in covering the layer below and doesnt leave coffeestaining on the edges (glaze medium usually helps with that). That's the best starter points i can give in text.
Really enjoying your content having discovered you recently. Have you considered opening a Shopify shop and selling individual extensive video guides? I'd love to support the channel a bit, get a great guide, but am hesitant to subscribe to the reoccurring payment of Patreon.
Such underrated content! Come on, Almighty RUclips Algorithm... give this man the recognition he deserves already!!!!
Very inspirational! Thanks for the motivation to pick up my brush and slap some paint onto something today!
Haha...thanks mate! Judging from my analytics youtube is showing it to people, they are just not clicking it ;) just means I need to make better content to convince those that do to stay ;)
Nah this content is perfect. Keep it up. Love your videos. If people arnt clicking, its their loss.
Patience, my friend.
Already won a Golden Demon or two. Yep, we've all been there, haha!
Yeah got i check under my bed and they just fall all over the place it's a real problem
You probably dont care but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can watch all of the new series on Instaflixxer. Have been watching with my brother these days :)
@Terry Dominic Yea, been watching on Instaflixxer for since december myself :)
Hahaha that matrix scene was hilarious
This is not only good for beginners, but as someone whos been in the hobby for a while, I never thought to have the model actually wet when doing the final sanding (so obvious UUUUUUUGH), or using super glue as a filler. Subbed, keep it up!
17 years ago I got into all of this because I adored the magic of the minatures. My first Marine looked appalling, I tried to rush in everything which I had observed. A year or two later and I was close to the skill of this gentleman. However, Life and the way it directs us later led me to giving up on my hobby. Well, now I'm back and it's just like starting all over again.
Now it seems even more challenging than it did way back then but I'm thankful for this gentlemans advice. I will also look into purchasing some of those paint brushes too as the starter set with 13 paints (recently purchased) comes with a limited brush imo.
Personally I like long painting videos, its really cool watching art come to life piece by piece while I work on my own army.
If anyone was wondering- the Patreon content is absolutely worth it. It has been extraordinarily helpful as I paint a World Eaters army. Highly recommended if you actually enjoy painting your miniatures and want to improve.
What color scheme are you going for in your world eater army?
@@Dante-ot8xg Mephiston Red midtone with Khorne Red glazing for shadows and Evil Sunz Scarlet for highlights. Skullcrusher Brass trim. I used a desaturated Liquitex violet ink for undershading as well.
Just getting into the hobby and love your stuff. You are great at explaining things simply which is a highly underrated skill!
An important tip that I think most good painters like you often forget to tell us but found to be the thing that helped me the most to get at a level where I could actually apply some techniques from good painters (been painting for a bit less than a year now).. Dont be too hard on yourself.. accept that your first dozen of miniatures will look decent at best. Dont over try to do stuff you aint feeling comfortable with at first.. I mean I tried too hard at first and always ended up striping my models for the like 3 first months.. noticing I wasent getting much better for some reasons.. then I went for a battle ready look for a few minis and noticed that each mini I actually ''finished'' even tho it was very simple was naturaly looking a tad bit better than the one before.. Went from being ashamed of my miniatures to be actually surprised that they started to turn out on par or better than many paint jobs on reddits.. from there I started to be confident enough to actually learn to introduce new techniques without even actually thinking about it.
I mean it easy to feel like your are terrible in this kind of hobby as every guides, box arts, etc are 90% of the times made by painters who litteraly painted hundreds of miniatures and in many cases have years of artistics backgrounds... Trying to paint at their level is just like starting to do MMA casualy and expect to be a UFC champion cause you watched a few combats and try to copy x fighter style.. it wont happen.. just do your thing and learn along the way.
"When highlighting, say NO to white!" Yes, sir, I've watched enough of your videos to know that Ice Yellow is apparently the color of choice instead. :D
(I have to get some when I can make it to a store that carries AV!)
Not only ice yellow, it's about picking a color that is a bit more saturated and not as big as a value step. It can be some wolf grey for cold highlights or a skintone for reds, etc.
And sunny skin tone 😁
@@trovarion it would be awesome if you did a video on the recommended highlight and lowlight colors for all the base primaries and maybe first blends!!
Or just tell me what you would recommend for green 😁
Because I will have black in the scheme I was planning to darken with black.
But for lightening I didn't know if I should whiten the base coat or find a green that just looked a shade or two lighter, but I don't really want to yellow-ize or neon it.
First video of you I've seen, but I liked it a lot! Only have a handful of models done so far.
@@mokane86 >>>it would be awesome if you did a video on the recommended highlight and lowlight colors for all the base primaries and maybe first blends!!
@@trovarion yes of course no "correct" color, but to see you go around the wheel with some of your recommendations would be good and useful.
I will have to test my green scheme a little bit, but for the base tone I'm considering, maybe a creme, beige, or light tan will work..or a grey or non-mellic silver..? Olive might be safer.. haha
Some day when it's committed to actual models I'll let you know how the finalized army scheme turns out. 😂
Thanks for the reply and I'll keep watching!
My first visit to your channel. What a great place to start! Many thanks.
Fesch Hairstyle! Much better than before ! 👍👍👍
This video gave me the creamy blends. I may never be the same again.
Thanks for this video. My current goal is to get miniatures painted well enough to play on the tabletop. Getting to play will help motivate me to go further with painting. Note: I like using PERFECT PLASTIC putty (deluxe materials) for filling gaps. It is creamy, cleans up with a wet cloth or brush, easy to sand when dry, and has low shrinkage. This product is used in larger models, but I use it for filling small gaps and I can use a damp paint brush to manipulate it when first applying it.
Love it. Love the matrix bit!!!
Very helpful! Excellent use of movie clips!
I recently got into 40k and saw a tutorial where they were using the citadel paints for painting a necron and space marine, since I didn't have those colors I looked for equivalents for the ones I have purchased for miniature painting of other previous projects and the end result is not the same, but different, which made me enjoy and continue with my own take on the painting of more necron units I have
Matrix was a nice touch.
Thanks for this amazing video Trovarion, really important points!
thanks!
This was a terrific, informative video. I subbed to your Patreon last month and it was a great investment -- I really enjoy the way you break things down differently on RUclips and the Patreon videos. Keep up the good work.
Love your sense of humor! 🤣😂. Great vid.
Interesting video. Looking forward for more!
Some random ideas for videos that would be awesome to see from you:
1. tutorial on painting terrain or a piece of scenery to high standard
2. how to paint vials, syringes, hourglass (transparent container with something inside)
3. your favorite art books and magazines, that' can help improve painting skills
thanks for the input! I have a 2 books recommended in the video description that helped me a lot rethink my painting!
Always love your perspective. Thanks for the video.
Haha, life-newb 😉
Love the content. You did inspired me to make a comment (I do not frequent the comments or make comments, yet here I am).
Color Theory videos. What are complimentary colors, tertiary colors, color harmony, or monochromatic +ink/contrast? How do you decide?!
I have been painting for over a decade now and interested in expanding my perspective on choosing colors, to step outside the box and blend all colors in to some harmony. I am want to explore new colors to opens up more possibilities. Create something new, never seen by the viewer. Deceptive color magic. Giving purpose and setting. etc.
I will stop there, I am passionate but still new to the game. I really wanted to ask:
How do you process (see) color when you got to paint your miniature/ diorama? Which color types do frequent most (above or none of the above)?
Fascinated with exploring the 4 dimensions of color theory. And would be very interested to hear your theory on color.
Thank you always! *peace*
Holy smokes dude, I only found your channel last week and it is blowing my mind. I am currently in isolation and your videos are making it flyby. Honestly i've not seen a more informative source of content. I'm even considering a GD entry next year :-).
Any way cheers, great stuff!
I will be joining you once I get through all the free vids :-D
nice! welcome and happy you are finding the videos helpful!
I have to thank you for your video on the war suit. I implemented some of the techniques to help with some Dark Angle vehicles. now I am tempted to go back and repaint some of the old ones.
"There's not that much difference between a $12 and a $1.2 brush. You'll be bad at it either way." damn, I feel targeted
New tithe hobby and still learning some of the big scene guys and I'm glad you showed up thanks for this video!
I’m also fairly new tithe hobby. Goodluck with your painting
Another fantastic video. #10 and beyond we’re the best in terms of advice for me, I paint at a higher level. Cheers Torvarion! From Adelaide, South Australia :D
Moving paints to dropper bottles. This channel is definitely my favorite now.
How do you transfer it without wasting much of it? Put water in towards the end and some medium?
I just use water
In reference to the bonus question, the 30' vídeo of the hydra freehand on the round shield blow my mind and is to understand that not everyone have the patience to go trough It. Nice nail grooming video btw! (Srry 4 bad english)
Thank you, great info
Very informative! Thx a lot!
Great info and humour! Subbed
Fantastic as usual, thanks man
Wanted to say that this was awesome. Thank you for giving a better than art school level of knowledge to the community! Liking and commenting to boost you in the algorithm :)
Thank you for the video, very helpful & informative.
Thank you for another great video with quality information as usual. By the way i LOVE 💘 the battle damage/weathering on the Tor Garadon, its just as breathtaking as the baller shield from the Ogroid Myrmidon masterclass. True masterpieces from the master himself 🙇🙏 Thank You.
Very useful, thank you.
Some great insights. Getting back into warhammer for the first time since 3rd. So gonna be tackling all kinds of painting projects in the near future. Feel like going with the classic Crimson fists with a scheme heavy on shadowing and highlights to bring out the detail where it's a scheme that is fairly basic.
for the algorithm! What a great teacher. Succinct and brimming with wisdom. If I were you I would work in some novelty videos for more views. The critiquing viewers miniatures was awesome, would love to see more.
If only I wasn't to stupid to know what novelty videos are :D (or to make them?)
Great style for RUclips I guess. Really like it keep it coming. Laughed really hard at the scene where a certain Austrian shouted.
Thank you, this is helpful indeed.
Great video, answered a lot of my dumb beginner questions 🤘
Awesome video indeed! I like this style
Beastgrave orks on the golden demon shelf? Hehe, can't wait! Anyways, very concise vid, as usual. However, I do look forward to you talking about colour composition in depth though!
Thanks for answering my question! So surprised to see my name in the video haha weird experience. Btw i love your more in depth videos thats longer and show more advanced techniques. The myrmidon videos for example. Love it, keep it coming trov!!
Great video, some really good tips in here!
Thank you for this awesome video
More suggestions for questions: Pushing contrasts and placing highlights: I've seen the artist "Bird with a Brush" taking pictures of the minis a loading them into programs to push contrasts and finding where highlights should go. Like an artificial, moveable zenitial priming. Do you any programs like that to do the same? I could image a program that could place a lightsource (or lightsources) but I don't know the name. Also how far can and should you push a contrast? (Odd question perhaps, maybe the answer is so you can see the difference at an arms lenght, this is probably a "you must do it to trick your brain to make it say wow and forget that it does't look naturalistic" question/anwser/situation)
You can use photoshop. It has a 3D feature where you can "stick" an image onto a plane, and place a global light or area lights. You can influence the specularity of the plane so you can see how the light reacts to your image.
@@Tanukilandia Ok but isn't Photoshop quite expensive to buy?
Earned yourself a new sub. Great video!
Thank you for these
Great video :) I've been playing around with oil paints after watching a couple James Wappel videos and it's been fun, but messy af. Still trying to get used to only having ~15 colors to work with instead of the normal drawer-full we all normally have access to.
Just thought I'd mention, citadel paints are really good if you're colourblind like me. I can't see red, but with GW specifically naming their paints and having their basic painting guides (and what colours are used to shade/highlight what) I can confidently pick the right colours (ironically, I'm very good with red and orange).
Their pots are terrible though.
This is a Great Video, Thanks!
thank you!
What a good looking man. Interesting video, this kind of stuff is needed on YT.
Admit it. You're here on behalf of Marica. 😛
@@Holztransistor Not this time, both me and her share a crush on Trovvy.
Suggestions for the next 10 questions video: How does it look like when a colour is thinned too much with water? Can it be made good again or does one have to start over? A Vallejo Glaze medium or a Vallejo Thinner medium does not seem to make the paint thinner as such (viscosity?) but it does make the paint less opaque so how do you mix to the consistency of a filter without breaking the mesh that holds the pigment? Do you use one brush for mixing on the wet palette and another to paint with as not to get paint up into the ferule? Or is it ok to get paint in the ferrule and use the paint in the brush and the swish it off in water before going for the next dip? I've just heard of Anti-Zenitial priming. How does that work? What sort of lighting do you use on your miniature paint table? I use "daylight" bubl (6500K) Best Regards Peter Rasch Lageri, Denmark
The question about switching brushes for mixing and painting is a very good one. If I don't switch my brushes age very fast, if I switch most of the color gets lost on the paper towel and the painting water. I consider myself a good and experienced painter but this is the one thing I still struggle with and feel uncomfortable.
I can offer a little insight about additives like glaze medium and thinner medium (and it can apply to a lot of other additives as well). By itself, things like glaze medium aren't really designed to thin paints out on their own because they're composed of whatever the paint medium happens to be (i.e. acrylic medium); in the case of thinner medium its usually just acrylic medium, though I believe glaze medium is a mixture of acrylic medium and flow improver. In both cases, its intended that you add more water as well; essentially, the additives are providing more of the binding medium so that when you add water you can add much more before you reach the point where the medium can no longer bind the pigment and it simply breaks apart. If you take a look at the acrylic glaze mediums you can find sold in an art store (like Liquitex or Golden) they provide you with directions for use which include a general suggestion on how much water to add and honestly, they might on the Vallejo brands as well but the printing on the bottles I usually get is *way* too small so I can say for sure.
Enjoyed that my man. Interesting as always!
Very informative
Excellent video!
A question for next time: do you highlight much when using a metallic scheme? I typically do a bit and found glazing was a smoother alternative, but it was far too time consuming.
Best equipment tip starting out; get good light. It will help alot. Wish I would have done that waaay earlier. Much more important than brand of paint or brushes imo
My light sucks. I find myself painting over dark spots to find out they were shadows.
great channel, thank you, keep going!
The thing I've learned here is, there is no one answer... you have to practice and try different techniques, paints and brushes to find your own style and learn how to best use the tools for what you personally need at the time. Practice is key.
Master classes are going to appeal to a tiny audience so for them to make enough money to be worth it you're going to have to charge extra for those. When my wife wants that extra information for her art, she takes small group classes that cost extra money but she gets that extra attention from a pro to help her get to the next level.
True!
They don't want to give away their secrets!
What would be cool is if someone recorded their master work and fast forwarded the 20 hours into 20 minutes with just a dozen brief regular speed carve outs for some major update check in/thoughts.
@@mokane86 That's 100% untrue. I have 100+ videos on youtube and i constantly "give away secrets". RUclips is just a different medium, it is about being entertained and people don't watch 30 minute painting videos, but they still take a week or more to produce. And when you make 28$ in add revenue for a full work week, how is this sustainable? People that want to hear funny 10 minute stories about their favourite toys are the majority of audience on youtube and this type of video gets promoted by the algorythm. a 30 minute lecture type video that is aimed at improving your skills does have 0.1% of that audience. I have done that type of video and people didn't click it. We got to eat and pay the rent too - so what options do we have? We adapt our content on youtube to just be entertaining and not educational, or we have a university style/lecture based channel that is pay to view for the people that REALLY want to push beyond their current skills. Or the THIRD option: We work another job and there is no videos.
@@trovarion the give away their secrets part was ment in jest!
Thanks for putting in time to help out people looking for advise and inspiration.
Besides the talented painting you also do a good job with video editing and added humor! 👏👍
Hello. I just discovered your channel and this first video I saw seemed very educational to me. I subscribe right now and will be watching the videos you have already made and the ones you are uploading. Thank you so much.
-Hola. Acabo de descubrir el teu canal i aquest primer video que he vist m'ha semblat molt educatiu. Em subscric ara mateix i aniré mirant els videos que ja has fet i els que vagis pujant. Moltes gràcies.
thanks mate!
Bravo
Amazing video... i did not see the convertion chart you comented in the video on your description.... thanks in advance.
fixed! thanks for pointing it out!
No problem.
So in the vein of this video, here's a question for a possible future installment; how do you balance a paint job between ease of readability and capturing the interest of the eye and brain? As a little bit of clarification, I've heard other painters talk about the dangers of making a paint job on a miniature too simplistic and therefore boring and making it too complicated and chaotic, and therefore unappealing but I haven't really seen/heard any sort of explanation or conjecture on what that balancing point might be. And yes, I realize this is a complicated question that can't be answered with a simple, quick response but any insight is welcomed.
thanks for the input!
Very good video! Id contest some explicit and implicit statements on paint quality and usability as overly simplified, but given the target audience I guess it is justified.
You teach the hobby longer than I live...
"Everything this days is about speed"
- Me watching this video at 1.5x speed: Yeah… I think I know what you mean
how do you choose which paint? when looking at a red acrylic paint, red craft paint or red acrylic ink how do i know which kind of paint to use when? (on an aside why dont mini painters use non paint materials like foil leaf? or resin?
Could you maybe make a showcase video of your miniature collection. It would be very intresting to see all your miniatures in one video.
maybe as a bonus video, if i find the time. these videos dont get that many views usually.
@@trovarion ok, thanks for the reply :)
Could you paint some DKOK? I just got a lot of them and I wondered how you would paint them :)
Won a silver demon with a dkok diorama in 2018 - i like them, but i actually dont have any figures left of them unfortunately.
@@trovarion ahhh okay, I'll have a browse then, thank you : )
Question is how do you thin your paints? They look super wet. Only time my paint looks like that is when I'm making a glaze
I thin my paints to the point that it works for the purpose of what I want to do with them. I can't give an absolute answer here.
@@trovarion yeah of course. I get it, but do you use your own medium mix it do you just use water. Flow improver, retarder. Just kind of in general. Maybe for a base, a layer, and glaze
@@kevinishki just water.
TANvarion!
the basement let me out for a day or two!
I agree with you on the new crop of Citadel paints, great and vibrant colors, very expensive for barely half of a Vallejo paint bottle and the paint pots are designed to let in air forcing the painter to have to return to the store to buy more. It's more GW dickery-fuckery.
If you take a moment to clean the rim and the lid every now and then, and avoid getting paint in there anyhow, and close them properly after use, it's really not as drastic as you make it seem. Paint pots require care just like your brushes or any other tools (that said, I'd prefer dropper bottles too!)
Useful as ever, but where can you buy the empty squeezy paint pots - and don't you waste a significant amount of paint getting the Citadel paints into those?
I've always believed that expensive equipment only increases your power level by 10 percent. If you're at level 10 then that measly extra 1 point is going to barely impact your work overall and you should refocus your effort on improving your knowledge and techniques. But on the other hand, if you're at level 100 then that extra 10 points is a difference between a good piece and a GREAT piece.
I see where you are coming from, but i honestly think that a great painter can get great results even with bad brushes, e.g.
I have a sculpting question: I have the optional parts for the great unclean one and want to build a body. Knowing you are in Austria too, what would you recommend me to get as a main material? US channels always show stuff that is hard to get or super expensive
Fill the bulk with aluminium foil and use Milliput standard for the detailing.
@@trovarion awesome thanks. Knew about the alu tech, but wasn't sure milliput was a good choice (only used it for gap filling so far)
I bought a $60 brush. 12 hours later, I was back to my ol'faithful, $1 synthetic
👍
After I've primed my mini I want to color the shadows like a reverse zenithol for more interest do I use a complementary color or a contrasting color
My plan is painting mortarion and I want a purple hue under the olive green armour would this work please help
Glad I found you. Earned a sub today lol.
Great video, thanks again for sharing with us. Did have a question, what is the name of the female figure/bust you were painting and do you know where I guy can get one? Thank you!
candy chan by neko galaxy
@@trovarion Thank you!!!
That "ninety nine point, nine, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, NEIN, !!!!" LMFAO!!!
I have you subscribed and yet... no video in my subscription feed, found this by accident... unbelievable
Need to activate the bell :/
you should paint a golden demon!
I rate this video NEIN out of 10.
Maybe a stupid question but what kind of sandpaper would be good to get?
Any
so to increase the value you dont use white.. you use cold yellow or something? and to reduce it you use black or do you?
you said i can use a color similiar to the base color, i did that, that looked good, but then how do i continue to increase the value, i want to just test around and very quickly with white it goes extreme and the midtone is gone with just a blob of highlight
Amazing vid.
Was that creamy blends joke miniac vid reference? 😦
Not everything on youtube is about miniac :)
0:30 i hear you. I am ready to move beyond the level i'm at. I am currently able to brush paint on without splashing it all over myself and entire room. Ah, crap... no i'm not.
good start....ah well...damn :(
So you consider Golden paint inferior to brands that are specifically aimed at the mini market (like GW, Kimera, Monument, Vallejo etc.)?
no? where do I say that?
It was more like you implied it. ;-) Because at 14:00 you were talking about not going too cheap and your example was Golden paint on Jackson's Art. The high flow acrylic line is more suitable for airbrush (I'd use it for that).
@@Holztransistor yeah, i said dont go to cheap and then showed a proper acrylic color as an example that still gives you twice the ammount of gw. it was just an example, no need to be nitpicky. I know it's a national sport in Germany ;)
what is the ratio of water and paint for layer and glaze?
There is no golden rule, it differs with paintranges and even colors within the range. I know beginners don't like this answer, but painting unfortunately has a lot to do with experience - as in training with the colors (and brushes and mediums/water) you have. That said layer is almost undilluted, just enough so the paint flows and takes a max of two layers to cover. Glaze is usually see through, which ultimately builds up your gradient, so: try to get a mix that is not grainy in covering the layer below and doesnt leave coffeestaining on the edges (glaze medium usually helps with that). That's the best starter points i can give in text.
thank you
Really enjoying your content having discovered you recently. Have you considered opening a Shopify shop and selling individual extensive video guides? I'd love to support the channel a bit, get a great guide, but am hesitant to subscribe to the reoccurring payment of Patreon.
Not for the videos, but you can find my painting guides on the shop of my website (trovarion.com)
@@trovarion Didn't realise, looks great thanks! Will there be a painting guide for the blood angel you did a couple of weeks ago?
@@cinderheat yes, working on it right now
great video! keepin it creamy as the kids say ;D
I've already won 2 golden demons but I clicked the videos anyway.
Wait a minute how many golden daemons is that???
about 2 meters :)
Like for my favourite famous aquarelist.