I did a poor job of one part of this review. I didn't explain how the thickness compensator works properly, so I will be doing a video JUST on that part later next week.
I am looking at shifting from my KME to this Hapstone. I only have one problem that I am still researching. A basic stainless steel has a 'ferritic' structure and is magnetic ... *However* the most common stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic. I have mostly S35vn, San mai III VGI and titanium blades. My D2 tool steel will not be an issue nor will my German 5160 but I am not sure about the S35vn dues to the extra niobium carbides along with vanadium and chromium carbides. If it is a non starter I will just got for the double clamp Hapstone and stick with clamp systems ... Any thoughts?
It depends on what I am sharpening. For most pocket knives I prefer the rotating clamp (this V7 now has an optional add on rotating clamp system). For larger fixed blades like big kitchen knives I prefer the table.
@@CanadianCuttingEdgethat would make all the difference in the knife sharpening world. Wouldn't that cover just about all the bases? www.gritomatic.com/collections/hapstone-accessory/products/rotate-k-clamp-upgrade-for-hapstone-v7-v6
Thanks Joe. But I did a terrible job explaining their thickness compensator. But now I understand it and I will do a new video to re-explain that part better.
Hi You misunderstood the way that thickness compensator works, you have to use the first stone to set the space,, i dont understand What you would use an additional for.. Thanks for all your nice content
YES, I did misunderstand that part. I am sorry for the bad info in regard to the thickness compensator. I have it figured out now, thanks to the guys at GRITOMATIC and I will make a new video that explains that part over.
Nice video. I have the v5 system. If you want to be really precise with the secondary bevel with full flat grinds all you have to do is measure the total angle of the knife ; divide by 2 and add that to the degree edge you want. Good job with the visual aids in explaining the relationship between the table and center line of the blade! 👍
The v8 and m3 have a blade rest you can add on that fixes the angle issue and rocking on some non full flat grind blades Just ordered the v8. I like the fact that its modular and I can also make it a r2...makes it much more versatile .
Jake, if the edge of the knife is 1.5mm from the edge of the platform and the stone is resting on the bevel of the knife the angle should be very close to on the money with the angle the cube is reading? Most of my knives are very thin behind the edge. .14mm . As long as the burr is formed on both sides the result is going to be very sharp. Take a before and after profiling measurment of the angle with the cube and let me know if you find a change in angle. Thanks for the video. : )
Excellent review. I already have a KME but I’m a sharpening junky and this version has a whole lot going for it. Gritomatic is an excellent vendor also so that makes me lean towards getting one. The stone holder looks great and I like the fact it can use a wide range of lengths. Keep up the good work!!!
I really appreciate the review in this Jake! I have been looking at it for larger knives. I currently have a KME system that works great on knives up to about 4", but I find it lacking on larger knives. I think this may be my next purchase. I do quite like the stones and strops I've bought from gritomatic for my KME, and am pleased you showed this as I really wanted to see a review on one before I decided to buy. I do hope you figure out the angle compensator block though, as other posters have mentioned, I don't think you're quite understanding it's purpose. Once you set your angle with a particular stone, you use the thickness of the stone to set the space between the block and the pivot arm. Then when you change to a stone of a different thickness, you adjust the pivot block so the new stone fits between them. Thicker stones need the arm to move UP to maintain the same angle and vice-versa for thinner stones. Other than that, can't thank you enough for the review!
I spoke with the guys at Gritomatic and they explained it to me again, and this time I understand it. SO, I will be doing another video next week that will explain properly how the thickness compensator works.
You could probably work out the difference of the angle of a full flat grind knife using your angle finder. I'd have to have it in front of me to nut my way through the problem, but I don't think it would be difficult.
Yeah you probably could do that math... I am not super picky about things like that, as long as its the same on both sides I don't really care if it is 20degree or if it is 20.1 degree per side. I like to be within half a degree, and I am more than sure that most full flat grind or high saber knives will be off by anything near half a degree.
I have an EdgePro and this is is similar: For FFG you can measure the angle difference of the table and the blade sitting on the table. It will likely be in the 4-8 degree range. Then take 1/2 that and subtract it from the angle you're reading on the angle. For example: Zero the cube on the table. Then measure a FFG knife on the table by putting the cube on the blade. Lets say it reads 6 degrees. Then when you put the stone on the blade to set the angle, you subtract 3 degrees from whatever angle you're reading. So if you want an 18 degree edge, your cube will read 21 degrees. This many sound like a huge pain overly complicated, but it's not. It takes about 5 extra seconds to get an accurate measurement. I wish the sharpener companies would do a better job explaining this.
If I could only have one and money isn't an issue then I would tell guys that I would go with the TSPROF system. I have several attachments that I got for the K-02 recently and I will have videos about them coming out very soon.
Even your poor job yields a great review. I understood it all. Looks really good Jake. A neat addition would be a magnetic block narrower than the table that could allow smaller knives to be centered and sharpened (placed on the table and the small knife on top, all angles would need to be adjusted to compensate). The length of this V7 looks to be longer than the M2. Is this true?
Interesting sharpener though not the simplest of units. I bought a Wicked Edge last year ans as long as you don't "hurry" through the sharpening process it delivers a exquisite edge on anything that cane be held in the vise, and it was cheaper. I do like this Hapstone system for its greater availability of angles.
I have used a Wicked Edge and it is also a very good sharpening system. There seems to be a bit of a flood of premium sharpeners out there. Wicked Edge says their system starts at $299 and this one starts at $239 so you must have found a very good deal, good for you!!
Yes sir, I got in on a pre-order deal, WE GO system with 200, 600, 800, 1000 grit diamond stones (2 each) for $225. It took 5 months to receive it but worth the wait. I'm afraid that deal is long gone though.
A couple of questions. Why do you use the angle finder to adjust for the different height stones and not the stones themselves between the adjustment blocks? Does the magnet work on all stainless steels adequately or is it best for high carbon? And a question about diamond stones for the TSProf: Any idea where I can look for a full set of diamond stones which include a 50 to 60 grit stone as well as a finer 1500 t0 2000 grit top end? I am also looking for stones to handle recurves. I just ordered the clamps for the flat grind knives and the shipping is killing me at $65 per order.
>Regarding the magnet. Stainless steel can be magnetic or non-magnetic. The cheapest stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.
That is cool. I knew stainless had varying levels of response to magnets, but I did not know why. I have used magnet clamping before for knife sharpening and struggled with it at times.
Take a look Venev diamonds on Gritomatic. We have curved diamonds compatible with TSProf. Flat diamonds (Edge Pro format) from 60 to 2000 grit will be replenished within 2 weeks.
mrblauer1 - I did that because I misunderstood how to use the thickness compensator. I will make a new video that talks specifically about that - probably within the next 7 to 10 days.
regarding stones - I would say Konstantin is the source I would direct you too find the stones you need. I am not a stone guru. They are at www.gritomatic.com
1. Set your angle on the stone. 2. Then set the thickness compensator using THAT stone - the one you set the angle with. So you leave the arm and then move move the compensator to the thickness of the first stone for that angle. 3. For any subsequent stones you leave the compensator in place and move the height of the arm. For a given angle on a given knife, move the compensator to set it with the first stone. Then move the arm height to compensate for subsequent stones.
Thanks for the info Andy, I have remedied the advice I gave in that video in subsequent videos. I left this video up because I don't try to hide my errors. instead, I fix them in subsequent videos.
Great review and use of visual aids to explain the sharpening system. Maybe one day I'll get the confidence to venture into the world of home knife sharpening systems.
What do you do now? Do you get others to sharpen your knives for you? Or do you have one or two knives that you use and the others are collectibles? Some people hate sharpening. I find it almost meditative, relaxing. I enjoy sharpening quite a lot more than I thought I would. Sharpening by hand or with equipment where you are fighting to get every stroke just right isn't anywhere near as much fun.
Canadian Cutting Edge I have a guy in Canadia that sharpens my knives. I've never been good with my hands when it comes to fixing, repairing, maintenance. I know my limitations and don't want to screw up anything.
Great review! I have a V7 as well, but yours is an updated V7 with newer style pivot/base clamps. the older ones had like a silver wedge in it that gets caught when trying to micro adjust. Luckily enough, Gritomatic sent me and updated pivot, which doesnt have this issue (its the same pivot as yours - you can probably notice it in other V7 fotos or reviews). I also am glad you pointed out about the flat grinds. Great explanation! I did notice it on my flat grinds cuz all of a sudden my bevel got bigger. No biggie, glad i practiced on some cheaper knives. I actually have to compensate for the flat grinds by putting the angle finder on the knife blade itself and doing some maths. it's like a 3 dps difference... that's a 40 degree angle vs 34 degree angle. I find the compensator kinda... redundant... since it was much quicker to just use the angle finder to check if adjustments are needed.
I JUST posted the video where I show PROPERLY how to use the thickness compensator, you may want to watch it, it is quite short - compared to my reviews. ruclips.net/video/ZiOlus2Us7M/видео.html When working properly I find it quite quick - now.
by "break it" I don't mean destroy the unit, but it would most likely mean that you wouldn't be able to put the magnets back on and have the surface that the knives meet be smooth and useable.
Hey man, I hate to rat you out but you are dead wrong about the whole Full Flat Grind and if you can trust the angle cube or not. Because the edge moves, the stone and rod laying on the bevel is moving too, you can trust the angle cube no matter what. Whe you make the new video about the stone thickness compensator please adress this.
I think you may have misunderstood my point about the angle - and that could be my fault for not explaining it well enough. I agree that the angle that I am grinding on full flat blades are exactly what the angle finder shows. The angle is completely accurate in relation to the base of the Hapstone (the point used to zero out the angle finder), but full flat grind knives are not sitting parallel to the base of the Hapstone sharpener the way other knives could be set parallel to the base when the magnet holds the flat sides of the blade parallel to the base.
Oh, that makes much more sense. I thought you were telling people that the angle finder was wrong while sharpening FFG blades. Thank you for clearing this up. Other than that, awesome review!
I know what you mean. When I could afford very little I just stuck with the Lansky rod sharpener for many years and it does the job - it's what I recommend to people with the tighter budgets.
Yea, that's exactly what I use. I also still have my old stones from when I was in the boyscouts around somewhere. The Lansky and stropping get them sharp enough for my needs.
There are some similarities indeed, but there are some nice differences. They will come out with a new version, called the R1 very soon, it will have rotating clamps. It has been announced and they are taking pre-orders. I will be making a short video about it soon. They are also making a new version that is much like this V7 except it will be about half the price. Also coming out around the end of summer.
The best tech looks very simple and yet it took them 7 tries to get all the components the way they have them here. That equals hundreds upon hundreds of hours of work by many people + all sorts of other expenses. 99% of what we all buy costs a LOT more than the sum of the components and their individual production costs. The worst offenders are things like soda and coffee and yet most of us habitually put down over 50X what the materials cost so that we can have it.
The text in middle of the video is supper annoying. Were already listening to you speak, we don't also need to read it. otherwise good video. Thank You
The text is very often different - additional info than I speak. AND some people get the message better when they can read it at the same time. Check out HUGELY successful channels like SciShow, they know what works for the majority of viewers. I don't try to please everyone, that would be impossible because I get conflicting comments. Some WANT more text, some want less... I take what I like to see in videos and do that in mine.
You have to pay even more if you want more or better stones. The stones that come with the most base unit are basic stones good for carbon steel and budget grades of stainless steel.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I did a poor job of one part of this review. I didn't explain how the thickness compensator works properly, so I will be doing a video JUST on that part later next week.
I am looking at shifting from my KME to this Hapstone. I only have one problem that I am still researching. A basic stainless steel has a 'ferritic' structure and is magnetic ... *However* the most common stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.
I have mostly S35vn, San mai III VGI and titanium blades. My D2 tool steel will not be an issue nor will my German 5160 but I am not sure about the S35vn dues to the extra niobium carbides along with vanadium and chromium carbides.
If it is a non starter I will just got for the double clamp Hapstone and stick with clamp systems ...
Any thoughts?
Do you prefer the knife sharpeners with the Balance Table or the Rotating Clamp Style knife blade holders?
It depends on what I am sharpening. For most pocket knives I prefer the rotating clamp (this V7 now has an optional add on rotating clamp system). For larger fixed blades like big kitchen knives I prefer the table.
@@CanadianCuttingEdgethat would make all the difference in the knife sharpening world. Wouldn't that cover just about all the bases?
www.gritomatic.com/collections/hapstone-accessory/products/rotate-k-clamp-upgrade-for-hapstone-v7-v6
Thanks. Great explanation of the different angles involved with blades with flat areas near the spine and those without the flat areas.
Thanks Joe. But I did a terrible job explaining their thickness compensator. But now I understand it and I will do a new video to re-explain that part better.
Hi
You misunderstood the way that thickness compensator works, you have to use the first stone to set the space,, i dont understand What you would use an additional for..
Thanks for all your nice content
YES, I did misunderstand that part. I am sorry for the bad info in regard to the thickness compensator.
I have it figured out now, thanks to the guys at GRITOMATIC and I will make a new video that explains that part over.
Nice video. I have the v5 system. If you want to be really precise with the secondary bevel with full flat grinds all you have to do is measure the total angle of the knife ; divide by 2 and add that to the degree edge you want. Good job with the visual aids in explaining the relationship between the table and center line of the blade! 👍
Thanks Bravo!
This is a terrific review. I'm going to buy one. Ditch the Angle Cube and just use a sharpie.
The v8 and m3 have a blade rest you can add on that fixes the angle issue and rocking on some non full flat grind blades
Just ordered the v8. I like the fact that its modular and I can also make it a r2...makes it much more versatile .
Yes they do have those features now, thanks for adding the info to the discussion.
Jake, if the edge of the knife is 1.5mm from the edge of the platform and the stone is resting on the bevel of the knife the angle should be very close to on the money with the angle the cube is reading? Most of my knives are very thin behind the edge. .14mm . As long as the burr is formed on both sides the result is going to be very sharp. Take a before and after profiling measurment of the angle with the cube and let me know if you find a change in angle. Thanks for the video. : )
If you need to replace the stopper springs use the spring from an old Guardfather Spike.It fits perfect
Excellent review.
I already have a KME but I’m a sharpening junky and this version has a whole lot going for it.
Gritomatic is an excellent vendor also so that makes me lean towards getting one.
The stone holder looks great and I like the fact it can use a wide range of lengths.
Keep up the good work!!!
The stone holder is a very fine update, maybe the best part of this thing.
I really appreciate the review in this Jake! I have been looking at it for larger knives. I currently have a KME system that works great on knives up to about 4", but I find it lacking on larger knives. I think this may be my next purchase. I do quite like the stones and strops I've bought from gritomatic for my KME, and am pleased you showed this as I really wanted to see a review on one before I decided to buy.
I do hope you figure out the angle compensator block though, as other posters have mentioned, I don't think you're quite understanding it's purpose. Once you set your angle with a particular stone, you use the thickness of the stone to set the space between the block and the pivot arm. Then when you change to a stone of a different thickness, you adjust the pivot block so the new stone fits between them. Thicker stones need the arm to move UP to maintain the same angle and vice-versa for thinner stones. Other than that, can't thank you enough for the review!
I spoke with the guys at Gritomatic and they explained it to me again, and this time I understand it. SO, I will be doing another video next week that will explain properly how the thickness compensator works.
i've used it on a Kabar bk-9 and worked just fine :) i dunno if i need my wood processing knife to be that sharp :/
You could probably work out the difference of the angle of a full flat grind knife using your angle finder. I'd have to have it in front of me to nut my way through the problem, but I don't think it would be difficult.
Yeah you probably could do that math... I am not super picky about things like that, as long as its the same on both sides I don't really care if it is 20degree or if it is 20.1 degree per side. I like to be within half a degree, and I am more than sure that most full flat grind or high saber knives will be off by anything near half a degree.
I have an EdgePro and this is is similar: For FFG you can measure the angle difference of the table and the blade sitting on the table. It will likely be in the 4-8 degree range. Then take 1/2 that and subtract it from the angle you're reading on the angle.
For example: Zero the cube on the table. Then measure a FFG knife on the table by putting the cube on the blade. Lets say it reads 6 degrees. Then when you put the stone on the blade to set the angle, you subtract 3 degrees from whatever angle you're reading. So if you want an 18 degree edge, your cube will read 21 degrees.
This many sound like a huge pain overly complicated, but it's not. It takes about 5 extra seconds to get an accurate measurement. I wish the sharpener companies would do a better job explaining this.
Jake which do you prefer this or the Russian sharpening system
If I could only have one and money isn't an issue then I would tell guys that I would go with the TSPROF system.
I have several attachments that I got for the K-02 recently and I will have videos about them coming out very soon.
@@CanadianCuttingEdge
Same, here.
TSPROF makes incredible tools...
Even your poor job yields a great review. I understood it all. Looks really good Jake. A neat addition would be a magnetic block narrower than the table that could allow smaller knives to be centered and sharpened (placed on the table and the small knife on top, all angles would need to be adjusted to compensate). The length of this V7 looks to be longer than the M2. Is this true?
Oh yes, the V7 is a fair bit longer than the M2 and therefore can sharpen longer knives too.
Interesting sharpener though not the simplest of units. I bought a Wicked Edge last year ans as long as you don't "hurry" through the sharpening process it delivers a exquisite edge on anything that cane be held in the vise, and it was cheaper. I do like this Hapstone system for its greater availability of angles.
I have used a Wicked Edge and it is also a very good sharpening system. There seems to be a bit of a flood of premium sharpeners out there. Wicked Edge says their system starts at $299 and this one starts at $239 so you must have found a very good deal, good for you!!
Yes sir, I got in on a pre-order deal, WE GO system with 200, 600, 800, 1000 grit diamond stones (2 each) for $225. It took 5 months to receive it but worth the wait. I'm afraid that deal is long gone though.
A couple of questions. Why do you use the angle finder to adjust for the different height stones and not the stones themselves between the adjustment blocks?
Does the magnet work on all stainless steels adequately or is it best for high carbon?
And a question about diamond stones for the TSProf: Any idea where I can look for a full set of diamond stones which include a 50 to 60 grit stone as well as a finer 1500 t0 2000 grit top end? I am also looking for stones to handle recurves. I just ordered the clamps for the flat grind knives and the shipping is killing me at $65 per order.
>Regarding the magnet.
Stainless steel can be magnetic or non-magnetic. The cheapest stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.
That is cool. I knew stainless had varying levels of response to magnets, but I did not know why. I have used magnet clamping before for knife sharpening and struggled with it at times.
Take a look Venev diamonds on Gritomatic. We have curved diamonds compatible with TSProf. Flat diamonds (Edge Pro format) from 60 to 2000 grit will be replenished within 2 weeks.
mrblauer1 - I did that because I misunderstood how to use the thickness compensator. I will make a new video that talks specifically about that - probably within the next 7 to 10 days.
regarding stones - I would say Konstantin is the source I would direct you too find the stones you need. I am not a stone guru. They are at www.gritomatic.com
Good stuff, well worth the wait for the video. Now I have to wait for mine to arrive.
I hope you get yours soon. Sharpening is getting more addictive all the time.
1. Set your angle on the stone.
2. Then set the thickness compensator using THAT stone - the one you set the angle with. So you leave the arm and then move move the compensator to the thickness of the first stone for that angle.
3. For any subsequent stones you leave the compensator in place and move the height of the arm.
For a given angle on a given knife, move the compensator to set it with the first stone. Then move the arm height to compensate for subsequent stones.
Thanks for the info Andy, I have remedied the advice I gave in that video in subsequent videos. I left this video up because I don't try to hide my errors. instead, I fix them in subsequent videos.
Got it. My bad for not watching following vids, which I'll do now. :)
With you, and applaud you for it. :)
Great review and use of visual aids to explain the sharpening system. Maybe one day I'll get the confidence to venture into the world of home knife sharpening systems.
What do you do now? Do you get others to sharpen your knives for you? Or do you have one or two knives that you use and the others are collectibles?
Some people hate sharpening. I find it almost meditative, relaxing. I enjoy sharpening quite a lot more than I thought I would. Sharpening by hand or with equipment where you are fighting to get every stroke just right isn't anywhere near as much fun.
Canadian Cutting Edge I have a guy in Canadia that sharpens my knives. I've never been good with my hands when it comes to fixing, repairing, maintenance. I know my limitations and don't want to screw up anything.
Great review! I have a V7 as well, but yours is an updated V7 with newer style pivot/base clamps. the older ones had like a silver wedge in it that gets caught when trying to micro adjust. Luckily enough, Gritomatic sent me and updated pivot, which doesnt have this issue (its the same pivot as yours - you can probably notice it in other V7 fotos or reviews).
I also am glad you pointed out about the flat grinds. Great explanation! I did notice it on my flat grinds cuz all of a sudden my bevel got bigger. No biggie, glad i practiced on some cheaper knives. I actually have to compensate for the flat grinds by putting the angle finder on the knife blade itself and doing some maths. it's like a 3 dps difference... that's a 40 degree angle vs 34 degree angle.
I find the compensator kinda... redundant... since it was much quicker to just use the angle finder to check if adjustments are needed.
I JUST posted the video where I show PROPERLY how to use the thickness compensator, you may want to watch it, it is quite short - compared to my reviews. ruclips.net/video/ZiOlus2Us7M/видео.html
When working properly I find it quite quick - now.
Looks sturdier than the edge pro apex
thank you for this review you have helped me to make up my mind and I have ordered this model
Glad I could help!
Put a little oil on the plastic sleeve.
Love mine, Only Had It 2 days.
Yes, I have oil on the sleeve, thanks.
Pretty sure you can remove the magnet and use it like a edge pro
If you want to you can break it and take out the magnets sure. They are not "removeable" but certainly they can be removed with enough effort.
by "break it" I don't mean destroy the unit, but it would most likely mean that you wouldn't be able to put the magnets back on and have the surface that the knives meet be smooth and useable.
Canadian Cutting Edge on there website is says the magnet is detachable I don’t think they mean breaking it off but I may also be misunderstanding it
Hey man, I hate to rat you out but you are dead wrong about the whole Full Flat Grind and if you can trust the angle cube or not. Because the edge moves, the stone and rod laying on the bevel is moving too, you can trust the angle cube no matter what. Whe you make the new video about the stone thickness compensator please adress this.
I think you may have misunderstood my point about the angle - and that could be my fault for not explaining it well enough. I agree that the angle that I am grinding on full flat blades are exactly what the angle finder shows. The angle is completely accurate in relation to the base of the Hapstone (the point used to zero out the angle finder), but full flat grind knives are not sitting parallel to the base of the Hapstone sharpener the way other knives could be set parallel to the base when the magnet holds the flat sides of the blade parallel to the base.
Oh, that makes much more sense. I thought you were telling people that the angle finder was wrong while sharpening FFG blades. Thank you for clearing this up. Other than that, awesome review!
Very detailed review, looks nice, but oof that's too expensive for me.
I know what you mean. When I could afford very little I just stuck with the Lansky rod sharpener for many years and it does the job - it's what I recommend to people with the tighter budgets.
Yea, that's exactly what I use. I also still have my old stones from when I was in the boyscouts around somewhere. The Lansky and stropping get them sharp enough for my needs.
Super video thank you
Thank you
looks like an edge pro
There are some similarities indeed, but there are some nice differences. They will come out with a new version, called the R1 very soon, it will have rotating clamps. It has been announced and they are taking pre-orders. I will be making a short video about it soon. They are also making a new version that is much like this V7 except it will be about half the price. Also coming out around the end of summer.
Excellent review - thanks so much for all your effort and detail.
You don't need more than 1 stopper if you know how to use it, lol.
A very expensive piece of kit, considering how simple the components are.
The best tech looks very simple and yet it took them 7 tries to get all the components the way they have them here. That equals hundreds upon hundreds of hours of work by many people + all sorts of other expenses.
99% of what we all buy costs a LOT more than the sum of the components and their individual production costs. The worst offenders are things like soda and coffee and yet most of us habitually put down over 50X what the materials cost so that we can have it.
FWIW, too much "writing" on the screen. Very annoying. IMHO
I am sorry you don't like that, it's part of my style.
@@CanadianCuttingEdge I like it. I find it very helpful.
Made in Ukraine 🇺🇦
😃👍
The text in middle of the video is supper annoying. Were already listening to you speak, we don't also need to read it. otherwise good video. Thank You
The text is very often different - additional info than I speak. AND some people get the message better when they can read it at the same time. Check out HUGELY successful channels like SciShow, they know what works for the majority of viewers.
I don't try to please everyone, that would be impossible because I get conflicting comments. Some WANT more text, some want less... I take what I like to see in videos and do that in mine.
Kinda steep for just 3 stones
You have to pay even more if you want more or better stones. The stones that come with the most base unit are basic stones good for carbon steel and budget grades of stainless steel.
Canadian Cutting Edge the good thing is that you can use other stones on it aswell