The Mystery of the 318's Low Oil Pressure Solved! update the crank was worn out .07 not machined
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- The next time we see this engine it will be crossing the Finish line at nicks.
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Nigel Stringfellow, Michael Vacca, joe schmo
the back of the bearing will be stamped as to what size they are
I hope this helps. The engine block was donated by Uncle Tony. The bearings I pulled out of my block were standard. When I was approached to do the project, I was told to find a 318 car, pull the engine, don’t worry about anything other than stripping it, putting the parts in a bucket, and bringing it down. Anything that needed to be replaced, he had in stock. I expressed concerns about the block, cranks bearing surface and thrust service, and heads. He said he would prep a block beforehand, and check out the other stuff once I got down there. He checked out the crank, gave it the ok, and then assembled the rotating assembly. The oil loss came from excessive wear on the crank in the ball park of .07, and the thrust surfaces were wiped out. I ultimately replaced the crank with a 10 under 340 crank, and it has awesome oil pressure. Unfortunately, the cylinders are out of round of hiring for excessive low by on the passenger side. I will do a video about it in the spring, right before I replace it with the 440.
For Gods sake dont pull full torque on one side of the bearing cap! You've got to evenly torque the cap! 🙄.This guy has quite a learning curve to go thru.
This! Never put all the torque on one bolt! pull them both down evenly and slowly. Also tap the main bearing caps down before you start torquing to make sure both sides are sitting flush in the block. You are scaring the hell out of me!
I'm glad someone said it before me.
I was quite literally cringing at that!
@@markszychulda6194 yeah and why didn't he plasti gauge the mains when he built it the first time. He also checked the hardest cap to get to or he could've rolled the engine over to make that one easier. Rookie but i got to give him credit he is out there doing it instead of laying around being lazy.
lol I was thinking man what the hell are you doing? I'd suggest at least reading a rebuild manual.
@@Flowtester1 ya always.
Why is there never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over?
Videos that's where the money is at.
Doing wrong keeps the content alive........I used to watch SniderTron3000 and would scream sometimes. But that's the game
One piece of advice, when torquing you should tighten your fasteners equally and then final torque. You don't want to torque one fastener at a time .
Also it's not uncommon to have a crank cut to different sizes, if you don't have to machine the mains or rods journal then you only machine 1. Nothing, 2. Either mains or rods. But yes if you grind/resize then all mains must match or all rods must match.
You'll get it sorted out 👍
Good comment on torquing down bearings. Basic shop craft is often overlooked but it's the little things like measuring before torquing that can save a lot of time and head scratching.
Normally you don't want to cut a crankshaft more than is necessary to clean it up. That is why you might cut the main and rod journals to different under sizes especially if it is only one journal that has more damage than the others. If you don't get the right size bearings as in this case you will have low oil pressure which will eventually wreck the engine beyond repair. Good engine builders will carefully measure all clearances before assembling an engine to prevent this from happening. That is why rebuilding is such an expensive proposition as opposed to purchasing a factory built crate engine.
engine building 101 always check bearing clearance as you assemble. I have found new bearings miss marked from the manufacturer
just wondering. are you from Pottersville NY
@@josephshields2057 no, illinois
Suorised tony didn’t measure the bearing clearances the first time ?
First in engine building:
1. Everything cleaned perfect 2. Micrometers are you’re friend 3. No short cuts. Live and Learn
3... Dont listen to uncle phoney
If this guy were smart, since he's home now take it to a machine shop, have it hot tanked & new cam bearings done & go from there. If he's not, well, play stupid games, win stupid prizes. Just sayin'.
Unfortunately listening to this guy's dialogue and watching the hamfisted wrenching including pulling down bearing caps fully on one side without considering torque loading distortion or cleaning the caps/bearings of oil residue before checking clearances with the plasti-gauge or even knowing what the actual bearing clearances should be? A perfect how not to do it video.
Mic every journal, no telling what kind of buttfuckery was afoot in years past.
50 years of it lol
Buttfuckery hahahahahahahah im fuckin dead
@@LunarOutlawsGarage - 50 years of buttfucking aaaaaaaaaaaahahahaha
@@tommylyeah That is now one of my favorite words.
No doubt.
If you don't take it apart and actually clean it, this is all for nothing. Do it right.
There should be no oil on the crank or bearing when you do this, and rotate the crank so the weights and not in your way when taking off the crank caps.
I'm glad you shared this with us , those other vid 's on other channels would have broke for a commercial break and low and behold all would be awesome and a lot of back patting, This is how we learn. Much respect.
Gee, I'd be just starting again. Pull it all down, hot tank it and measure every tolerance and get it right. Changing the bearings might not be the only drama.
Nick Anagnostou that being said brother remember it’s your Motor go with your gut on doing what’s right to fix it good luck brother can’t wait to see her run
@@Terminxman the whole things was not an "engine build" ...it was closer to a a cluster fuck
I left the industry 40 years ago, but this was like watching a train wreck. Somehow I watched until the tragedy got to be too much for me.
Take it apart clean and mic everything... resemble so you know for sure for it will be good to go forever. Use what you learned from being down at Tony's and Nick's when doing so the spirit isn't in the engine its in the experience.
I dig that man
Tony’s and idiot, nick is the closest thing there is to a master mechanic
Respect for keeping the build alive Lunar the attitude you have now is awesome and great job on finding the issue!, best of luck
Ty man
Quit taking shortcuts. How many times do you want to repeat this? do you want it to last? How much time and $ do you want to waste? Take it apart. Have the block cleaned in a washer or baked. Clean out the heads. Clean it all. Nothing wrong with turned mains and std rods. Mark the crank with an engraver M10 for the next guy. Balance your rods. I have 4 cylinder with rods from 3 engines so we had closer weights prior to balancing. Do it right and be done.
He listened to Uncle Tony... He was the one who knows better :)
Putting a 318 together carefully and cleanly would be sacrilege. It would be seen as an incredible waste of time to do that for a lowly 318. Those engines were made to be abused and disrespected, even worse than the Chevy 305 or the earlier 307. They are seen as boat anchors, virtual garbage, one of the worst V8's ever crapped out by a factory. It's the Rodney Dangerfield of car engines.
I'm so glad that the 383 I'll be working on in the future has been in my families possession since new, and dad was the chief mechanic (his car) in charge of ambulances.
I'm torn. My body is quickly failing me. Maybe I should just sell it. I had the heads completely rebuilt, but it looks like I have a stuck oil ring. Occasional blue puffs. 160k miles on 71.
Probably only ground the mains due to a spun main bearing. Would also explain the duplicate stamps. Always measure main and rod clearance. Glad you found the problem without catastrophic failure.
Got lucky. I definitely take for granted that I work on engines that are so new the last hands that in them was the manufacturer
If it spun a main bearing you can be certain that all the mains were align bored, not to mention that the big ends of the rods might have been resized. All those clearances pile up and need to be checked during the buildup. "Standard" bearings only work with stock manufacturers tolerances...... "10/10 cranks are commonplace, but bearings for a 10/10 crank in a align bored block that's now 10 over....those you'll have to look for or order....not off the shelf items at most parts stores.
Olde timie engines.. require one part Archeologist and the other Detective Work.. Who was here, what evidence did Early man leave behind..
And how big was the hammer that he used to put it together? lol
pull the crank...mic the mains and rods in my different places..thro the new bearings away ..get a mic with a deep jaw that will fit over the journals..EVERYTIME YOU PULL A MOTOR APART...ALWAYS mic everything ..and clean that puppy well
You CAN pull them apart without a mic, especially if you're getting everything machined. However, you NEVER put them together without checking clearances on EVERYTHING!!! Plastigage is your friend! So is a good mic. I've built things like a bone stock straight 6 with just plastigage before, and everything was fine. Anything that will EVER be run hard gets checked with a mic, then plastigage EVERY journal (with everything clean and dry) during assembly just to make sure. It's a LOT easier to find clearance problems BEFORE you button it all up and drop it in to something!
You lost me when you blamed tony.
I commented b4 that you brought tony the junk and he did the best he could with the cruddy crap you brought him.
Look back at the build video tony said it was a grenade
Can somebody link me this where lunar said this
Tony should have stopped the entire thing and regrouped when he realized it was not going to work out.
Instead he wasted everyone's time and money, especially Nick's in order to try and make some money from the video.
All I said was after the Dyno video he stop returning my calls. Lol that is it
I think Tony's a very "get it done and move on" type of guy, add the blame games on to that and he stopped caring about that 318. It's pretty telling that he urged Nick to cancel the whole thing, when it would be the first ever UT built engine to hit the dyno (source: tony on marathon stream)
@@bjr2379 Go back to the circus, circus clown. Low IQ people like _you_ just don't get (i.e., that this live engine was going to be assembled no matter what). NO Tony did waste "everyone's time and money" you f-ing bozo. More people than not enjoyed this live build. YOU are nothing but a naysayer and garden-variety troll. Uncle Tony wipes his behind with your ilk.
I think at this point I would pull the engine apart mic the crank have everything cleaned and reassemble. The fact the bearings are too big and look scuffed I would check the crank for ovality/roundness and if it's straight don't want to spin a new bearing.
Way to go UTG for helping with the updates not!
now he blames Lunar 100%... I guess the person in charge should have busted out some plastiguage? who doesn't plastigauge an old engine? it takes 5 minutes?
Phony Tony!!
An why were'nt the bearing clearance checked on assembly?
Hey bud I was watching you tourque the rod back down you should try to bring them down even instead of doing on side at a time.
Doesn't matter on already used bearings it's done meshed in as much as it's going to so it doesn't hurt anything
Pretty sure you are supposed to use Plastigage on a dry bearing and journal.
Good catch ,in reality that green plasti guage should not even show a crush with that clearance. Glad he got the diag done. Can't wait to see it rip.
Same thought , where is the brake cleaner and compressed air
And did he have the cap in the register??..
how about a a micrometer and bore gage? Uncle Tony's WHOLE machine shop hit the floor when his dial caliper fell off the bench ...LOL
@@prowirxenginestands2088 ...you got it,a vernier ,a mag base and indicator(s) and a set of 1"-6" mics arent a fortune and well worth the money if you build more than one engine
Check the factory engine stamping. If there is a Maltese cross, and an “X” the mains are .010 under.
Yeah, I have a chart somewhere with the various undersize marking codes but I can't find it right now. There can single journals undersize, or all at .001 or .010, even lifter bores had a marking code to indicate an overize lifter bores on some engines. *THAT* would be a pain since oversize lifters are very rare. I know that the later Magnum 318 and 360 cranks are marked with obvious codes like M1 or R5 to indicate a single 0.001" undersize on those specific (eg. Main 1 or Rod 5) journal numbers, and there are different piston codes like A/B/C/D/E which are 0.0005 increments over standard. I have a spare 1984 360 (which is now .030 over) which originally had one of those weird combinations, it has things like AABD and DAEB stamped on one of the pads by the deck to indicate it had different sized pistons installed in the various cylinder bores. I had never seen that before. I don't recall if I ever checked to see if it had a sequence number that matched the VIN on the van it came out of, I suppose it could have been a factory re-man rather than first-production from the factory, who knows? It was the first time I had ever seen that, but this was like 25 years ago. :) haha The engine that is in the van right now is the one out of our original '78 van, which has no sequence number, so either they forgot to stamp it, or maybe it was a warranty replacement engine or something... another "who knows". :)
Only us true mopar guys know this 😂
That is awesome!!! I am so glad you found the issue. What I cannot believe is the mains are turned and the connecting rod journals are not.
I hope the cam bearings are okay and not excessively worn.
Are you going to go with Tony's recommendation with adjustable push rods?
Have you or are you going to check to see that the camshaft is not excessively worn?
Even with that much slop, or "play" in both lifters and bearings in the bottom end, I worry about excessive premature wear and "hotspots" in the metal.
Looking forward to the next video!! Thank you for the opportunity to experience your fun filled project!!
No The adjustable valve train is too expensive so I went with the route that Nick suggested and get the appropriate valve train for the engine. I’m gonna be going through a few more things in the engine to make sure everything‘s ready to go. The next time it goes to nicks I want to be 100% ready I don’t wanna waste his time. There will be a video from where we leave off now to what numbers we get from Nick’s Dyno😁🤙
Turning one or the other on cranks happened a lot back in the old days. It saved you money and most good machine shops would tell you if you could get away with a polish.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage You just need the right length of pushrods.. you don't run "adjustable" pushrods in an engine.. you just use them to check the length you need to get your lifter preload right. I would say geometry but with a rocker shaft setup you can't adjust the geometry as simply as by pushrod length. You can buy pushrods in any length you want... start with stock and get one adjustable pushrod to figure out what you need. Like a stock LA 318 is 7.5" pushrods... the Comp 7702-1 is adjustable from 6.8" to 7.8". Buy one of those and figure out what you need.
@@LSswapGarage1 they literally sell adjustable pushrods. they work too. better than $600 rockers.
@@frigglebiscuit7484 Or you can "literally" measure the length and put in a proper pushrod... this isn't hard. There is absolutely zero reason for the existence of an "adjustable" pushrod beyond measuring for the correct length. It doesn't need to change while running lol.
Tony failed to show basic engine rebuild practice's and now wants nothing to do with build
EXACTLY
Did you put new soft plugs in BOTH oil gallery holes behind the camshaft thrust plate?Mopar engineers got rid of the squirter bolt on the right side of the cam plate to increase low speed oil pressure. There are numerous videos on you tube that explains this.I had this issue with a 273 back in 1970. Did you pressure wash the oil galleries just prior to assembly? With that fiberglass hanging from the garage ceiling you might have gotten a bug in there,clean room conditions ain't prevaling there.
budget or know budget the engine needs a clean and bearing clearances checked before starting
I was following Tony and Nick before this all started. Tony's job was to assemble a pile of parts as is . Good job accepting your learning pains.
Subscribed
Thanks my dude
I want to tell you something if I'm going to help somebody assemble a motor I'm going to do what I can to make sure it's right
Tony should have known better. I get risking shortcuts on a known, good- running engine that you just want to freshen up. You can hone, re-ring and replace bearings, but somebody's crusty high mileage motor? ... well you see what happens. Ditto for not checking clearances. Never assume a molested engine (non-original gaskets) is what it seems.
Glad you got it worked out, but there are certain steps and checks you cannot shortcut unless you accept that a failure has high potential as a result.
Sounds like sometime in your 318's life it spun a main bearing and they had the mains turned out .010, but in your situation it's easy to just replace the .010 over new bearings, with the crank in the block it's easy I've had done it plenty of times when an oil pump died and pumped barely 10 psi most of the times and the bearings were not torn up but worn well so just swap out the mains with a size over because the crank was turned, also mike half the mains the double it and try it out, it'll save you loads of time and not a trip to the machinist shop, 318's are pretty much bullet proof and just about everywhere in salvage yards or even at machine shops in the back sitting without being too expensive to replace the crank or block if needed.
why would you ever install bearings without checking clearance to begin with rookie mistake
I didn’t install the bearings
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Why not?
@@uncleralph629 Ummmm, because UNCLE TONY did the assembly
@@LunarOutlawsGarage no but u got the new ones. He s like are these the mane ber. Woop there it is. W.T.F.
i did :) bite me.
A crankshaft that has been turned will have it stamped, .010 M under it 020 R, did you even look when you cleaned the crank? I was also suprised Nick didn't check the pressure relief spring in the oil pump, I shim them with washers to increase pressure too!.
It's something you'll only ever do once, and a good lesson learned.
I always used to mic cranks and check bearings for clearance, but I was doing it professionally and couldn't afford any comebacks.
It's your hobby Brian, I'm sure I'd make some basic mistakes if I tried to do what you do for a living.
Learn from it and move on.
That's right Tony didn't know that
@@simoncochran9824 Tony never said he was a proud.
Good find, but you still have an issue with the pushrod length.
Assume nothing. Measure everything.
Failure to use the calibrated C clamp will get you every time
Pull her apart and get it cleaned right. That block is dirty as hack.
I've had this happen b4 and is why I own a good set of staritt mics now. I don't use plastic gauge anymore I mic my crank and use my bore gauges to get my provide clearances. Plasti-gauge is great for stock applications but when you get into performance oriented motors then measuring the crank and bearings is the best way
Good job figuring out your mistakes and lack of knowledge about old school engines. All the measurements should have been done on disassembly as well as good cleaning prior to ordering the parts. This unfortunately my friend is on your shoulders. It comes solely on lack of knowledge and experience. This is how we learn though. Time to get out a pen and paper and write an apology and personal acceptance letter to UTG. Cheers brother🍻👍
cam bearings?
A good Machine shop would have stamped crank with the undersize. You had already loosened both rod nuts
I'm guessing some home builder just polished the crank at some point, rather than having it turned. That would explain why it's only a little loose and not stamped. I'll bet 10 under bearings will be too tight, he's probably going to have to get the crank turned.
I have worked on a TON of engines that had cranks of various undersize journals and very RARELY are they stamped. You have to mic them yourself to find what size they are.
@@livewire2759 You used the words "guessing, a little, I'll bet, and probably." Let's hope he mics everything and none of those words will be needed at all.
@@ronjones-6977 LOL Yeah, let's hope so for his sake. All I can do is guess, the ability to know for sure is all his.
Yes i have had cranks done and they stamped the crank. Main size and rod size on the rear throw of the crank
You already broke rod cap bolts its wasn't loose and its awesome to know what really was causing the issue people were pointing fingers at Tony but in reality Tony did his part and more
Any real car guy can tell, Uncle Tony is someone you pay attention to. You can't fake his kind of knowledge.
@@greasemonkey258 really Tony should have known better he's just worried about slapping together and making content
I'm following from
the Channel that features the guy with the 59 CORONET
that You are redoing the Motor and Trans
That's a Beautiful Ride
Can't wait for this 329 to be changed out to the 318 4bbl.
Mike over at weird beard is doing a phenomenal job looking forward to get my hands on the 59
We all make errors. That’s why I don’t like to rush assembly. It was an experiment. The original block is gone anyway, I’d be tempted to start all over with a stout 360; or big block for that b-body.
If it's been apart no telling what was done by plan or accident. Years ago I built up a Ford 428 FE that appears to have been set up earlier with looser clearances. Discussing with a few people it seems they set the bearing and piston clearance a little loose with the intention of reducing friction and compensating by using a thicker oil. I ended up going .030 over to get the cylinders where we had normal clearances on a piston and turning the crank down enough to use a undersized bearing. My machinist said the crank had been turned but it was done poorly or not cut enough for an undersized bearing. I got the engine out of a Torino street car but suspect it had been in a stock car at one time.
Glad you figured it out man!! Great video!
Me too I am glad it’s not a cracked block. And I’m glad that Nick was willing to continue working with me to get this thing across the finish line🤘
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Everything UT touches fails... bottle rocket cant even run 20 seconds... let alone 10... rofl...
Can't wait for the real dyno run after u button her up with correct size bearings
Me too man real numbers this time. 🤘
So,, it's been over 3 months. You got it done, or is it sitting under plastic at the back of the shop?
That's why I *always* double check with plastiguage at assembly, even when you've miced everything, measured, balanced and blueprinted everything to the Nth degree, it is still a good final sanity check.
Honestly this is a great way to learn the ropes u won't easily forget u are a better engine builder already from this . Throwing hp parts at lS motors is just candy . Tony's hard work is in those cyl heads and that means alot. U got something for your troubles.
Did the same thing with a303ford that I bought with a rod knock. The previous owner found that the crank was 10 10 with standard bearings installed. He put the right ones in. Long story short it didn't work. I bought it cheap pulled the crank it took a 20 20 put The right bearings in and it ran good since. I put it together with plastic gage for insurance.
Ok nobody checked the clearances on assembly or checked the old bearings for size on the back wow what an oversight.i had my first ever machine shop engine built by a machine shop which I was to assemble they gave me the wrong bearings I heard that word ass u me for future reference RIP or cut one section off plastigauge that way you are not opening the whole sleeve much easier to work with
Lol trust but verify live and learn
Plastiguage is a really good when it comes to checking bearing clearances. The best way is to use inner and outer micrometer to be absolutely sure of what the bearing gap is. When using plastiguage. You need to measure the clearance with the crank dry. No oil in the journal because it will give you a false reading. I would use something very thin, like WD40, but that’s it.
Your measurement means the bearings are to small. The gap is larger than what the bearings can make up for.
uncle tony was a bit defensive about this. but, its a learning experience and next time success will happen.
I didn’t see him comment on the video
@@LunarOutlawsGarage he made it clear that the build was not a fail and that he was not responsible. ok, I do not make anything big out of this either. I just suggested to tony that the effort was a learning experience and let it go at that. not a win and not a complete fail either.
So, not responsible if it grenades, but will he claim victory when it dominates at Nick’s? We all had our hands in it .
@@LunarOutlawsGarage I do not assume that. I just got the message that he did the best he could as part of the build and was not personally responsible for the job not going as expected.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage I am unclear on this issue,, is Tony not responding to your calls now?
My father & I always mic the crank you just never know
I take for granted that all the engines I ever mess with are so new that they haven’t had time to be butchered lol
@@LunarOutlawsGarage the new ones you have to watch to see if the head is warped . The old ones the heads could be cracked the gides could be taped & will only be ok for half the life they should be if you spin a bearing they will turn down the crank rather one or all so if one it's a real pain . You bore all the cylinders for balince but some just do one and it's just nuts
Nice to see what the issue was and that it wasn’t really your fault or Tony’s falt
So guys ALWAYS use plastigauge it doesn’t take long and gives you insurance that your clearances are pretty close
Never trust what was in a 50 year old engine lol. But yes always use a plastigage. I take for granted that I work on engines way way newer and have been untouched from when they cam off the assembly line. I know every time I have hit my builds plastigage they have always been right on the money. They are a cheep and easy tool that will ball park it very quickly.
it was Somebody's fault...2 men construct an engine no one checked clearances...whose at fault?
@@billcat1840 the guy who said he never uses plastiguage...tony. look, i dont use it either, but i check my stuff all over, mic journals, look for maltese crosses, etc...
I know this had an oil pressure issue, but Derek over at VGG slapped together a POS 307 and hit 290 on the dyno...just sayin' Was it losing 35HP? No porting no polishing, just slapping old, unrebuilt, used 305HO heads on it.
You also have to thuroughly clean the surface to get an accurate reading on the Plasti-Gauge.
Doesnt matter in his case, the bearing wasnt even touching the crank!
quick question my 318 Dodge Dakota I'll be running fine nothing going nothing wrong with it all sudden it'll start rattling and lose power literally you're putting neutral shut it off crank it back up and it starts running good again and it helps tell me what could be wrong with it I was thinking maybe the oil pick up
Always keep old bearings, they are marked. If not measure, plastiguage, anything during assembly, it would have been caught. Never go on others assuming it will be correct. Check for yourself. But good it was on a dyno and not installed into project, much easier to repair. Good luck looking forward to seeing it being successful. Hello from Canada!
Spirit of the build is still valid - it was a fail - it established that haste on an engine build costs more time and money in the long run. As much as it sucks, do the right thing and build it right.
Yup
I find this whole team up build pretty cool. Sure it sucks that the bearing and lifter issue, but that’s life. I see all these keyboard engine builders on here with their monocle 🧐 falling off because you didn’t do what they had done. Bottom line is. You created some interesting content, that we all watched on multiple channels and really the story isn’t done yet. Personally I think it’s amazing that an engine might have lived in a vehicle with crazy oil tolerances and no one might have known until this.
I watched nearly the full build at Tony's. I cringed when he was putting it together and not checking any clearances, especially after realizing somebody else was in there. I was sure this was where your problem was. And his freeze plug installation technique is abysmal. Couldn't help but laugh at this after he put out a video criticizing somebody else using silicone on a timing cover gasket in a 360 he pulled apart, I believe he called it pure butchery. Nice of him to put you on blast and tell Nick to dump this thing over something he couldn't bother to double check.
As for cleaning the block up while it's already assembled, get a pressurized sprayer and use gasoline to douche it out. Won't hurt anything. Then reprime the whole oil system when you're done. Hope the rest of the build comes together without any major hiccups.
Can't believe you guys didn't mic the crank to begin
Tony can't read Micrometers
Upon finding that the mains were out why did ya re torque the bolts when ya needed new bearings should of left it un torqued ands loose till ya got the right parts
Perfect video on how NOT to rebuild an engine, to save a few hours 20X that was wasted
I took the easy road. I took my block and crank to a quality machine shop and opened my wallet. My crank was worn so bad the thrust section had to be welded prior to turning. Came back perfect.
Let me take a few guesses oil galley plug left out.....distrutor drive end broke......plugged oil passage hey had to try and guess.
It was worth a shot
It turned out to be stupid simple. It taught me never to trust that whoever was in the engine before you did it right.
You have 2 choices. Continue in the "spirit" of a build that failed miserably or rip that bitch apart and do it right. The "spirit" was that the step before yours was correct. You assumed and trusted the bearings and journals were correct in the step before yours. Tony assumed and trusted the bearings and journals were correct in the step before his. Thank goodness for your sake Nick never trust's anything that he doesn't do himself because if he did that could have been a very expensive dyno run.
some body bought bearings and never mic the crank ? or pulled the crank out and never put a mic on it ? .. well live and learn .
The crank was heavily warn I didn’t think it was a good crank as it could move in the engine an 1/8 of an in. I sent photos and videos to Tony and he said he would check it out down there and if we needed to replace it we would and for now order the same bearings that where in the engine. He inspected the crank and gave it the ok. After this video I brought it to a Machine shop and they verified that the crank was junk now has a 340 crank.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage sounds about right. I still watch Tony's videos strictly on a comedy basis. The bullshit is strong with him.
Why the 340 crank? I don't know of any difference besides the 340 being balanced different for heavy duty rods and bigger pistons. Are they stronger? I'll be honest I don't know anything on strength differences between the 2.
@@buildingracingvideos4714 the crank is nearly identical to the 318 it is just a little bit heavier duty
2.5 to 2.4 is one hundred thou.,2.49 would be 10 thou.
Yep sorry just miss spoke I was happy it wasn’t a cracked block
@@LunarOutlawsGarage all good, I just wanted to make sure you knew. I'm a machinist and this is something that's been an issue explaining to new hires.
Yep lesson learned 50 years of this engine being on this planet. Never trust that someone got it right before you. Most of my engines are so new that The last hands that touch the engine were at the manufacture lol and I’ve taken that for granted
to many comments about doing it wrong i watched to see what would happen/ if they were not trying to "break in' a new cam i wonder what would have happened. there are plenty of pro/proper builds videos to watch. there are lots of experienced build engines that blow up at the track. although being a important, if overlooking the the mains was all that went wrong??? i would like to have seen them run that engine as it was built.
Always measure everything even if it is an engine you think you know.
No shit. I rebuilt an engine and OMG, even the machine shop that bored the block and hung the pistons said to PLASTIGAUGE the bearings when I put it together. And THEY were the ones that checked everything in the first place.
@@ronjones-6977 Exactly!
plasti-gauge is your friend
100%
Or at least a measuring tape! Most assemblers can feel when it's not right.
I saw an engine like this where the crank was bouncing around in the block when it was started up. Nice Fury Wagon.
Yes sir it is
Agree!
No short cuts now. The mods are still in there and so is the spirit. Just get it right.
It's the odd things that catch you out.
Built an engine (Australian 265 Hemi) many many years ago. Went together ok, but it was always a bit hard to turn over. Never improved with miles. Seemed to stop quickly as well. Pulled it out for an upgrade and decided to diagnose why as it wasn't right. Took a bit of hunting but finally found it.
My dad was a mechanic and had lists of "tune up" and torque figures for most common cars. The edition of the list I'd happened to choose for the main bolt torque value had been converted from imperial to metric...twice. My main bolt torque was 36% too high.
Undo mains. Check bearings (ok) back together at the correct torque. Perfect.
holy shit xD
must be an aussie thing because ive had that happen with torque values ,things go hinky in the conversion ,had it happen on a clevo i was doing
Measure twice or you get to doing it twice ✌🏻
Problem is that you trusted dirty Tony to rebuild your engine
Thats true.
Relax alright , my old man is a television repairman, he's got the ultimate set of tools
my old man has a gnarly set tools, We can fix it!
At this point, if it were me, and I have traveled this road many times in my 70 years on this planet. Strip it down, even take out the freeze plugs, take the block to a machine shop and have it align bored, then proceed accordingly. Rods and caps, have them machined to the new crank specs after that is all checked etc. If your going to do this, do it right. And have them wash the block and install the freeze plugs correctly, then go from there. When you cheap out....shit happens.
I agree but If I was to take it that far I would buy a 360. We can’t lose sight that it is only a 318.
Lol so after you posted the Dyno day Tony bailed from the build. Then was going around saying the engine was no good because of misfit push rods, and all the dirt you put in the engine. I watched the build, his block looked like it was pulled out of a car with 300k on it, then forgotten about for close to 30 years. You both needed to clean your parts, but he pushed you under the bus and stopped trying to sort out the engine. It’s common to just trust the bearings that were in the engine but it is not a good practice. You should’ve checked it, but you’re an inexperienced engine builder so you have now learned that. Tony supposedly has built thousands of engines and most definitely should have broke out a plastigauge. His heads touched the rotating assembly last. He is even saying he will do a build blindfolded. The man is disappointing and cocky. This was just meant to be a ego stroke for him. So when it pulled 250hp on the dyno he tried to put distance from you. There is no way it will make the 400HP he was saying in the live. I get it the distributor was not curved, but that might get you to 275 lol. I was a sub but I am out he is all talk and no go. But remember the oil loss was the lifters yup only the lifters. Haha sure. Sorry for the novel but this guy is a jerk
Agreed
They broke almost All of the basic Cardinal rules of engine building, the most basic starting with clean block!
@@dougdier3104 the block that Tony supplied for this build must Have been anchoring his boat the “ss Tony’s EGO”. No that boat is drifting a way from him fast. Like I said I can expect this from a novelist like lunar. But tony sells himself as the smartes mopar guy in the world.
Im pretty sure you don't torque bering caps like that....I would think you bring it down in stages.
Thanks for sticking with this project. As a fan of all three "Garages" I'm excited to see what this motor can do. We've all learned from this experience.
I will drag this across the finish line if I have to lol
You should always check the specs when you are building a new motor for horses or for racing neva torque 1 side always each side evenly you got lucky the motor didn't blowup too its minor always check the specs on all I went to auto school manya yrs ago but then reving to 5000rpm I've done a 318 in school those yrs ago but My next motor is a 340 I'm punchin it too 426 cubic inch or maybe a lil less but all gas 1 carb probably a 1050 predator carb pushing about 600 HP or betta but I am doing all the work myself good job love the last word God bless you too Young Man n Tony's Garage and Nick's Garage great find and save I'm like Tony was big block only Mopars but I love them all
I like the new format you have in this video. Simple, easy to follow and straight to the point. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks was trying something new 🤙
Ahhh jus put 5 qts of motor honey in it! It's like 200w!🤪
Done that ! Before a major rebuild.
I had a fe Ford engine that came factory with 3 different size bearings from factory . Need to mic all journals .
The excessive main clearance may have allowed all the dirt to get through without scratching the journals.
buy a set of mics on amazon or used (should be AROUND $100 and you will have them FOR LIFE). plasti-guage is low key crap,not very accurate and basically only good for a one time half assed check and repair. if you plan on building more than one engine,go with the mics and learn how to use and read them.
The cheapest EVs a generation from now will be faster than the fastest of these old slugs and they will never break down. Possibly kids might like to play with windings of the copper much like guitar players may wind their own pickups but I sincerely doubt it as kids today don't even care to get driver's licenses anymore. We are literally watching obsolete dinosaurs here kids - Uncle Tony, Nick - a species of mouth breathing cigarette smoking Molson sucking lunchboxes that have nothing better to do than fix and play with 100 year old dirty tech. It was a good run. I'd say I'd miss you guys but I won't - I'll be worm food about the same time y'all are - perfect timing as usual. 🎬
Past rice builder, of reletively current engines (4) cyl aftermàrket parts instructions, vs. BASIC 50s shop tech manuals ( 8 cyl even flathead methods. Like Owning a welder, owning a mic, or a torque wrench, it only works with proper use.
cut a small piece off of the paper the plastigage came in so you can get an easier accurate measurement
My vote is to put the right bearings in it, that new oil pump, lifters and pushrods you have, take it back to Nick's and let er rip.
Please learn how to torque/untorque fasteners incrementally and evenly. I am cringing. What about the cam bearings? Read some basic engine rebuilding books. There are so many basic things you are missing. Thankfully this trainer motor is just a dodge 318. No great loss.
Ever heard the word "wear" ? The old bearings mean nothing, thats where it was when it was last assembled, if that person didnt make the same dumb mistakes you did. ALWAYS have the block, crank and rods checked by a good machinist.
Cant wait to see it running again
Me too. I can’t wait to do a burn out in the satellite with it
@@LunarOutlawsGarage You will Dude.. also give a little prayer to Jesus Chrysler and Holy Mother Mopar.. it won't hurt.. Keep at it..
If it was me I would tear it apart clean it throw new bearings and a oil pump in it I gotta oils definitely check over things before i would put more money in it and good luck brother
I have seen some vehicles from the factory with one rod bearing 0.010 under. The Ford or Chrysler plant would do that sometimes instead of throwing away the crank.So mic all of the rod and main journals
everyone talks abouts mics.. you can use caliper to check if its ground to the next oem spec.
That’s correct. A quality set of calipers is accurate to .0005.