Is saying “no” “eh-eh” or pushing on your dog’s rear to get them to sit cruel or inhumane? No. Of course it’s not. But is it in line with the idea of training by reinforcing behavior. No. It is not. When you start adding in physical or psychological intimidation into your training, even the mildest, you change a simple picture into a very complex one. It is no longer easy to tell why an animal isn’t performing a specific behavior. And by mixing intimidation and reinforcers, you can water down the reinforcement value of your reinforcers causing you to have to turn to harsher and more frequent intimidation… because the “reinforcement is not working”. Punishment for incorrect behavior implies that the animal did something wrong rather than the training plan being badly thought out, so if you didn’t break the steps up correctly for the dog to learn, the dog is punished rather than the trainer. The side effects of mixing physical and psychological intimidation into training is that you water down the reinforcers you use in the process, making them not as powerful. This makes it difficult to work with your dog when you are competing with other reinforcing things in the environment as the dog can seem like he doesn’t really want to be around you or what you have to offer and prefers the other things over you. And it can seem like your dog is “blowing you off”, being stubborn, or not listening because he is naughty. The only option you then have is turning to more intimidation and punishment to get your dog to listen and stay with you. The problem with main stream dog training such as shows on tv, is that you will be told what you want to hear and what agrees with what you already know to keep you listening and engaged. You want to hear that you simply just say “No!” or throw something at your dog to get them to behave. Easy peasy just what you wanted to hear. If it was as simple as that to change behavior without behavioral or psychological side effects, then there would be no jails because we could just tell those who have committed a crime “No” and threaten them to not do it again. The truth is, the training plan that will be the most effective with the least amount of side effects isn’t something easy or what you already believe to work. If so you probably wouldn’t be still having the issue. Sometimes the most effective solution, does involve a time commitment and careful planning of a behavior modification plan. It is, of course always disappointing to find this out. That you actually have more work and learning to do than you anticipated, but do you want to be fed the truth or keep sailing down the river of being fed what you want to hear?
Being fed down the river of what I want to hear? There is entirely too much of that in this world. Especially by the media. It's called confirmation bias. Great video 👍 now I have a lot of work to do 🐾
do you know what i can do when i do my "car park routine" (sometimes parallel park, shift to park, roll up windows and sunroof, start gathering belongings in the car, etc)...my 1yr old dog will cry-bark and whine so loud right in my ear and people outside my car probably think i am lighting the dog on fire lol...i have tried marking the behaviour by getting hype with him and encouraging him to "HYPE UP BUDDY, WE ARE HERE, ARE YOU READY?!?!" etc because i heard that i need to first be able to ask for this crying before i can tell him to stop it...that hasnt worked (or i havent done it long enough cuz its embarassing when exiting the car lol)...now i ignore the cry-barks, but its really loud in my ear...usually i am driving/parking/preparing at the time so that takes a lot of attention to actually park a car, mind traffic, and distract my dog at the same time...any suggestions? i have tried parking far away from the parks but he just does it whenever i park the car and roll up windows and stuff.
So true. In this world of quick fixes, people look for ' hacks' for their dogs. I'm always surprised when dog owners I've met on walks smack or yank their dogs for 'bad behaviour.' As humans I think it's beholden on us to use our minds to think around a problem behaviour:why did that happen? What was the dog doing that for? It's been brilliant to have tips from you what to do instead. I have used 'leave it' or 'let's go' for many situations. I used to think 'leave it' was just for not eating food on the street but it's been a revelation to use it for 'leave the tiny puppy' or 'don't chase the bird' - so simple! Why didn't I think of that before? Thank you so much! ☺️ 👍
You taught me the "positive interrupter" years ago (it feels like 10 or more). I've adapted it slightly to become "reflex to name". I progressively reinforce my dog's names to the point it becomes reflexive. At that point, it's a very powerful interrupter/attention getter. I've been told you need to get 2000-2500 reps in to get it really reliable. Trained interrupters are the way forward. Every owner should build a good foundational skill set to enable them to help their dogs navigate through life. Invaluable video that every dog owner should see.
Thanks :) It is powerful stuff. Its hard to get people to understand who have not seen it or tried it. I really need to make some modern videos on the topic.I have them in my online courses and VODS but not online. I cringe when I watch my old youtube videos as I have grown so much as a trainer and also learned better ways of describing training scientifically.
@@kikopup One of the most important and significant things you've done is practically demonstrate force free approaches that work. By putting out high quality content into the public domain, everyone can see the evidence for themselves. It's the most effective way to a) silence the critics and b) inspire people to adopt or at least experiment with a less invasive approach. Chad Mackin's "Something to Bark About" podcast this week was an excellent, inspiring rant about influencing the industry to aspire to more dog friendly techniques by putting good content out there. When people like Tyler Muto cite you as one of the trainers we should be aspiring to be more like, you know you're doing something right and should be proud of your work.
Dog Training by Kikopup your old videos are still very good and informative!! Your channel is my favorite on this topic and I always recommend it to all my dog owning friends. I’ve been watching for a couple of years now and im am actually getting a dog next month. I’m so glad all your videos are available, old or new - they are an invaluable source of information.
You are really amazing at reminding us that dogs can be very sensitive and need to be shown even the simple task of picking them up can be intimidating. One of my dogs favorite treats, cheese, works when nothing else does, like barking at delivery vehicles. If he is not interested in his cheese, I know his state of mind makes him incapable of complying. Saves so much frustration.
Nothing to Appoliges for. Without you kikopup, I & many others wouldn't have the relationship/bond we have with our dogs. Thank you. Love your channel & all what you do. Much appreciated.
not all positive reinforcement trainers train the same. Some still believe in the idea of ignoring unwanted behavior....so you might feel confused still...
Thank you so much for all your wonderful vidoes! One thing I'm curious about after watching this one is- how do you prevent inadvertently creating a "behavior chain" with the undesired behavior being seen, in the dog's mind, as the beginning of something fun? (E.g. the dog learns that: "if I bark, my human asks for "place" and then I get a reward!"). I know that such a behavior chain can definitely be a risk if redirection type tactics aren't done carefully, and obviosuly there are ways to prevent it! Since you have so much experience and such a wonderful, thorough, and clear way of explaining and demonstrating, I would love to hear you dive into that topic! :-)
Thanks! I think you inadvertently answered two questions I had, without me having to ask or even meaning to! The loveliness of autoplay. Great advice, love your channel!
I love your videos and how clearly you explain. Can’t thank you enough for all you do and provide. My 11 week old Sheltie has been proving to be more of a handful than my previous Belgian Shepherd. Colour me surprised! I’ve needed to change my approach with him and you’ve been such an amazing resource for me.Thank you again.
That was great and very helpful for all dog handlers. Really good to see some clear, plain english, info on what to do when things go (potentially) wrong. And you've supplied us with plenty of tools to suit all situations.
It amazes me why anyone would give this a thumbs down, great stuff ! I'm about to qualify as a behaviourist/trainer and your videos have helped me so much along the way with my learning. Truly grateful and hope i can do a good job and help many dogs and their guardians as you have :)
Well we all have different opinions on training based on our learning and experience so of course people will have other ideas and also some yt people like to thumbs down their competition.
It's truly amazing that your dogs are more reinforced to stay at bed than actually get released as you twice said free 😛. They didn't even flinched. I don't know if there is a video about this, but what do you do with overly focused dogs, how you redirect their focus. I'm stuck in a binary problem where my dog (stranger/human reactive) is either going to be super focused on me (which is a good thing I guess) or is going to be overly focused to something else (usually smells/environment in general). I'm having a bit of a trouble to compete with the environment. Great video as always! 😊
Well they are used to me talking and also taking turns and listening to me blab on and I do try to say the cues a little differently when talking to the camera. I suggest when you go somewhere and your dog is distracted you can either play settle on a mat- where you just sit in one place and reinforce the dog for laying down on the mat. You can also at home play this game until the dog understands it - ruclips.net/video/2-ezmzKZ8kM/видео.html Then when out and about, buy putting the bowl of treats on the ground, most dogs will start to focus on "that" as the distraction rather than the rest of the environment. Obviously if the environment is too overwhelming youll have to being where the dog can succeed and be interested in food. Stay positive. Most dogs are distracted when out and about. It took my two Border Collies a long time to not be distracted out and about when training because they were worried about people and dogs.
Great video, thank you! Also, I was so confused initially by the visuals - everything is so monochromatic aside from your upper body and the smaller pup, it looked like one of those color selective filters, haha.
You are so generous in sharing your knowledge! Thank you! I just love your method and am really happy that I have found, in my city ( Sherbrooke, Québec, Canada ), a training school that uses exactly this method. Jon and I are now taking the autocontrol course and we both love it! I still refer to you for training that can’t wait. My Jon Poodle is a jumper, of course, and I will try right now what you have suggested to redirect his attention. Although he is food motivated being petted and having guests is such a strong reward in itself for him, I am at a bit of a loss as to what to use to counter that and getting his paws on the floor and calming down. He is really good in all his exercises in training but hasn’t yet crossed the bridge to applying what he has learned to everyday circumstances. I have to find something quick before he hurts someone. He is a medium Poodle and now weighs 29 pounds so he can easily hurt or throw a child down. It’s also a shame that this pandemic deprives us of opportunities to training this as we still can’t see many people. Thank you so much for your dedication and spreading the good news: no need for intimidation of any kind in trainning your best friend :)
Thank you so much kikopup. These videos are priceless. I've helped my own dogs as well as some friends. I really really appreciate you taking the time to teach us all.
A lot of good information and thank you you know I came up with my own creative way to teach my dog to stop barking at unnecessary stuff I caught her at a good moment when she was howling form a noise that I made so I taught her how to how with that noise that I made on command now whenever she decides bark for unnecessary reason I just give her the command to how and I do this several times to the point where she just gets tired of it and said this is not fun anymore and she stops and it works real well she's a Yorkie
Great information, thank you for all the solid content you make available! I did have a question on the suggestion of interrupting the undesired behavior (say biting the leash) and asking for an alternative behavior (like Watch Me) then rewarding the Watch Me. Don't you run a high risk of creating a behavior chain? Pull on leash, person asks for something else, get rewarded... so the dog would easily learn to pull on the leash to earn a reward? How do you prevent that behavior chain like that? If you didn't reinforcement alternative behavior you asked for (at least occasionally) there would be a lot less motivation for the dog to perform the alternative behavior you are asking for instead of the undesired behavior that is generally self reinforcing in someway to the dog.
Well I dont remember if I talked about it in this video, but in training sessions you reinforce the interrupter, and build its power, but in real life situations you are right you dont want to create a behavior chain that includes the undesirable behavior, so you dont provide a treat for the behavior, instead tell the dog what to do. If it was an amazing feat, you might reinforce, like say your dog never recalled from chasing a deer before... and you were impressed. Then you would make a mental note to go and do training sessions of the behavior you WOULD want the dog to do around deer running which is to ignore them, and you can do that in training sessions. Here is the formula for solving unwanted behavior - ruclips.net/video/6vAk98000wc/видео.html Teach, reinforce, interrupt and prevent. Interrupting behavior just stops the animal from doing the behavior to prevent it being rehearsed. The important thing you need to do is make the environmental cue that caused the undesirable behavior a STRONGER cue for the new behavior. So for example, if the dog picked up rabbit poops on walks, The dog sees the poo, triggers the dog to want to pick it up, you tell the dog drop it or leave it, and then keep walking... Thats not going to train the dog never to go toward or pick up the poo because first the dog sees it, heads toward it, then you give the second cue... SO to get a dog that completely leaves the poo alone where you never have to tell him to not eat it as hes eating it, you set up training sessions teaching a default leave it from food on the floor, then practice outside in the grass and then with rabbit poop, on leash then off. If that makes sense. The key to ending a behavior you dont like, is building a behavior you DO want to be stronger. In terms of leash biting though, in an adult dog it could be the side effect of an emotion, say the dog is frustrated or over aroused. So to get rid of the side effect you could simply teach the dog to be calm or show impulse control and the biting would disappear. Usually as a trainer I approach changing both the emotion and the behavior. :)
“Leave it” and “Let’s go!” Work great for getting my dogs attention! He still barks at knocks at the door, but We’re working on saying “crate” so he does go in his crate but he still barks lol
You can put a sign on your door to not knock. (they could call or text) or leave packages next to the door in a basket. Sometimes dogs bark cause they are startled. I myself jump out of my skin when my neighbor sneaks into my yard and knocks on my door when Im not expecting it. So sure you can work on it, and get your dog to not bark when the door is knocked but youll need to keep up the training if months go by and then suddenly knocking happens after a really long period of no knocking... because the dog most likely will be startled.
@@kikopup That makes sense! I don't really mind him barking, but neighbors complain about it sometimes. We have some really non-dog friendly neighbors. They even come out of their house and yell at us to keep our pup off their property when we're just walking by on the sidewalk!!
My dog is a year old now, and once it gets dark outside she likes to run around the garden and bark. I personally don’t mind this, however in Ireland it’s illegal to have noise disturbances and I don’t want to disturb my neighbours and have to get rid of my dog. I have to let her out in the evening to go to the toilet etc, but once she gets out she won’t come back in. We’ve tried luring her with treats and toys but it doesn’t work. We can’t chase and catch her as the garden is big and she can’t be caught, and also she enjoys being chased as she things it’s a game and I don’t want to reinforce this behaviour.
Let her out off leash during the day and play with her- day time is for fun time. Night time, take her out on a long line for a while to break the habit. Call her frequently to give her a treat, then release her to go do stuff. You can sprinkle treats in the grass after she goes to teh bathroom and have her sniff to find them. This will get her mind off running around like a lunatic and barking. This could progress to her being off leash, you calling her and letting her go back ... and also playing the find the treats in the grass game at night instead of barking and running.
Wish I learned that about desensitisation of being picked up as we’d pick up our frenchie pup when biting our toes and put her in a pen for a time-out and this led to her biting at our hands when we reached for her harness to get a hold of her and then this became a game of her biting us intentionally to get attention then running off barking then coming back to bite us to get us to reach for her so she could play keep away with herself and us. We now use a leash indoors and when she has these frenzied episodes (less frequent since we started timeouts) of attention seeking where she bites our toes we lead her into the pen with the leash this way we can avoid having to grab at her to pick her up which I think scares her as she flinches when I reach to pet her sometimes
Here's a behavior I'm having real trouble with. An 11-week old Aussie. Often, when I take her in the back to go potty, she starts attacking my legs, leaping at them and sinking her teeth into my pants or my skin. I tried the turn-away-and-ignore method, going flat, but she keeps going, happy to tug and rip my pants and sometimes draw blood from my skin. I tried the yelping-like-a-pup method, but she takes that as encouragement, it seems. What I've taken to doing is turning my back, and holding my leash arm out behind me, so she can't reach my legs. This probably encourages her more, though, and maybe it becomes a game for her, as I'm restraining her. She leaps, mouth open, and reaches the end of the leash and harness, and flopping down on the ground. She does it over and over. Then I have to pick her up, carry her inside, and put her in her crate. The whole time she's wriggling and trying to get her teeth on my, and play snarling. My interpretation is that she's overtired in these moments, but I still have to take her out to go.
Like a toddler…. Redirect, redirect, redirect… worked well on my GSD puppy’s furniture chewing. When we had a crazy barking pitt bull neighbor, instead of letting my boxer-lab dog bark back reactively at the fence, I would call her to me and pet her and give love and attention like crazy. Soon my dog learned to ignore the neighbor dog barking and seek me instead.
Emily, do you mentally stimulate your dogs daily? Are they self reinforced by relaxing? Were they always calm? Do you think dogs who are constantly mentally and physically stimulated can start to expect it more?
Many of your videos have been very helpful. In this case....I wish you could cover the topic with some live clips. My dog is extremely reactive to skateboarders. When he sees them in a skaterpark he will start barking and screaming as if you were cutting his skin of. Although he would run towards the skaters and try to stop them (bordercollie!!!), my impression is that he is scared(tail tugged in). Attention noises will not reach him, food is not luring enough and when I try to move him, I have to drag him along. Very unpleasant for everyone involved. I would appreciate it very much, if you could make a video on some of those real hardcore cases. That certainly wont work with any of your welltrained dogs...........maybe you find someone like mine to demonstrate and "heal" him!!
I'm no professional trainer, but I would look at her videos on reactive dogs. Your dog is reactive to the skateboarders, which is a little different than just wanting to interrupt a behavior your dog is doing. The basic gist is figuring out how close you can get without your dog reacting so strongly they can't recognize you're talking to them/won't take a treat. Then reward them for their calm behavior. You'll gradually be able to get closer without your dog reacting because they'll start to understand that there's no danger/the thing isn't that interesting/etc. This is how I got my dog to be chill around cats (for the most part... We're still working on it lol)
kendell church this actually happened once w my puppy LOL she was teething and i left her unsupervised without a chew toy. totally my fault and not so unrealistic scenario >_
Any Idea on how to handle this? We are fostering a small chihuahua for a local humane society, we are trying to make him adoptable. One issue is that when you try to put a collar on him, his freaks out and tries to bite. I'm feeling like he was trained with a shock collar by previous owners. We don't believe in shock collars. We can get the collar on him by distracting him with a treat while we put it on, but then, when we try to put the leash on him to walk him, we go thru the same issue. He tries to bite, and same issue again trying to take the leash off, any recomendation?
I suggest first getting check up and an xray of the neck and back and rule out that there is not physical pain or arthritis. Because if there is physical pain, all the training will be useless as it hurts all the time that its happening. I suggest instead training the dog to wear a harness with a wide enough hole that it doesnt mess with his head or neck as it goes on, or the step in type that they step into like a bra and then you buckle it over the back so it doesnt touch the neck. All the steps need to be broken up small enough so that the dog is having a positive emotional response every step of the way, so if he starts to look worried or agitated the steps need to be broken up smaller. ruclips.net/video/_DJQsVobla8/видео.html I also suggest that people use harnesses with dogs because collars can actually cause neck damage and neck pain, when the dog hits the end of the leash on accident or the owner pulls on it.
I have been traveling and doing seminars for 10 years now and now I am settling down and not traveling so much. But you can check trainers in your area through Iaabc , Pet Professional Guild or Karen Pryors academy
What to do with a dog GSD who is 'very independent' ie doesn't have a good report with me and barks at another dog or cat when we walk. Do I continue on walking and completely ignore it (being a confident owner), do I say no(souns like barking to her), moving in another direction is not a solution always if the other dog approaches regardless as we end up going sme direction (dog will loom back) or we need to turn back to go to our destination(like home) - cannot keep running from dogs all the time
Its a very common problem with herding breeds. Honestly the best way to make the fastest progress with this situation, is to do training setups with decoy dogs. So you have a trainer who has a bunch of dogs that are calm and friendly to use, and you practice with your dog first being calm at a distance and then progress to doing pass bys. The wonderful thing about a set up is that you can ask the other person with the dog to stop and your dog feels safe enough not to react. I suggest looking for a trainer who uses positive reinforcement to help you feel that other dogs showing up is a good thing.
I agree mostly. Except for when a dog is jumping. My service dog in training would jump all the time and I had to ignore her till she realized she needed to sit for pets. Which now she is perfectly good, only took her a month to get the idea. So yeah in some situations you need to ignore but definitely not chewing, biting and all the other things you listed in your video.
I would say you can ignore if you are a good trainer. Because you are using extinction. If you were to use extinction, and you'd not reinforced any alternate behavior you do want your dog to do, the dog might switch to another behavior you dont like or also do behaviors related to frustration. So for a novice trainer I would suggest them teach settle on a dog bed when being ignored. The problem is, a lot of people at a certain point show some form of reaction to the jumping, some people will laugh, others will finally say "THATS ENOUGH!" and what can happen is that the dog is reinforced for duration, or jumping harder. Sadly I met someone who ignored barking then the dog started nudging her and when she ignored that the dog bit her, she said "Ow!" then it happened a few more times, and the dog learned to bite her to get attention even though it was negative attention. So you really have to know your dog. If you have a dog who is noisy or easily frustrated I suggest not ignoring behaviors. Interrupt and focus on building that alternate behavior to be strong.
@@XX-sv3qu It really depends on the dog. Some jump when they are calm. Some jump when they are too excited. So if the dog is too excited it's a different plan than a calm dog. I would work first on the dog just being calm with the person in the house. So they could be behind a baby gate and settle on a mat for treats first. Then when calmer greet the guest.
Here are a couple of suggestions. Be calm and turn your back to the dog. Or the side. Stand still. Those are calming signals that all dogs know. Don't make eye contact with the dog. Another calming signal is moving your head slowly from one side to the other. You can also yawn a couple of times. When the dog has calmed down, you can sit down and greet it. All dogs greet each other when they meet. It is a whole ritual for them. They want to greet humans in more or less the same way.
Love this video, any thoughts on what to do to prevent a certain behaviour in one of my dogs, he will sit by my feet (he’s a papillon) and bark at me for attention, if I ignore as you say it just gets worse.
My border collie likes to run around like crazy, i do exercise her but i can only do so in the afternoon so the entire morning she drives me crazy! She likes to throw her chew toy around and chase it or dig around in her bed. How do i calm her down when puberty is getting her a bit cheeky.. :(
Dogs need to move for their bodies to grow normally. Like children. But sometimes dogs can become obsessive. I suggest working on the settle ruclips.net/video/wesm2OpE_2c/видео.html Also for the morning you can do mental stimulation like training, or something as simple as a find it game, where you hide treats around the house or around the yard and cue her to find them. First simple then hard.
how can I ensure that the dog doesn't do these unwanted behaviors when i'm not at home? what if they only listen/stop the behavior when i tell him to but otherwise when i'm not around, he continues (for example, biting furniture when i'm not home)
I suggest leaving the dog in a large accident proof pen when you arent home then start teaching the dog to be left longer and longer in another room with the door closed with music on when you are home so you can interrupt any chewing on stuff behavior. You can even set up a camera. Sometimes dogs chew furniture also because they are stressed about being alone so that could also be the issue you might be having. Keep getting your dog interested in dog chews to chew on and have bones to chew when you are home and also in his pen when away so he learns to go to those when feeling like chewing. When finally loose in the house after training you can put something that doesnt smell good on all the chair legs and wood skirting such as wintergreen oil which smells minty. But for the couch its difficult because wintergreen oil stains furniture as its an oil.
My dog knows all these things really well voice and body language commands. I put a lot of effort in to it a lot!!!!! But his pray drive for rabbits especially is way to high that it all goes out a window when one runs across the road. I can’t control rabbits running across the road in front of us. So he can never be off leash as if he was he would be gone and then probably get killed by kangaroos as he would chase them as well.
How about a 13 week old puppy growling at me and my husband, because she is not allowed to jump on the Couch? I assume she wants to cuddle or attention, which i give her, i just don't want her up there. Sometimes i get on the floor with her, but not everytime, because she needs to learn that. Any Suggestion?
Should you teach a small pup to be picked up even if they grow into a bigger dog? Like a golden retriever? Perhaps it can be transitioned into a cuddle command..?
I think it's always a good idea, say if you need to help the retriever into a car if they get hip dysplasia as an adult. There is also the restraint exercise here to work on ruclips.net/video/G1Otlr6RX7o/видео.html
@@kikopup thank you so much. Last question, I’m trying to crate train my pup but she seems to like switching positions a lot! So her play pen she seems to sleep here there etc. Do all dogs enjoy being in the same bed? Is it a bed issue? She prefers our wood floor so I got her a plastic mat thing for a hard surface. She does sleep but not for long. She will want to come out to immediately sleep elsewhere. Do you have any insight if it’s a problem with the crate or more on my training to make the crate a nice place to be in? (She does voluntarily hang out sometimes only to come out later and we always feed her in the crate)
Hi, we have a 2 year old Frenchie and just got a 10 week old Blue Heeler, he’s very hyper and jumpy we are trying to train him, but he seems to be selective with cues. My Frenchie is very gentle with him but he’s gotten aggressive when play fighting, I often have to separate them by making a noise or moving them. Should we let them continue this habit of playing? I’m afraid we are creating an aggressive Blue Heeler by letting him play so much with our Frenchie, he bites and has punctured her today, I know Blue Heelers need a lot of exercise, my husband wanted a hiking companion, but I’m afraid if this continues I’ll have to find him a new home. Any suggestions ?
Yes, it does sound like the play is not appropriate and you are right to have concern. You could get a trainer in to look at it. But I would suggest no playing with each other. You could reinforce them for settling on their beds instead. And over time teach them each to play with toys on their own if they are interested in biting at something.
My dog becomes aggressive when I put his coat on or off him. He snarls and jerks around. I have to muzzle him. He also doesn’t allow me to take care of his ears. He’s had several infections and I have had to bring him to the vet at a great expense because he doesn’t allow me to put the drops in his ears. What should I be doing? Thanks. I really need help.
Its hard to know if the coat issue is to do with the ears. It could be due to something else like neck pain or a dislike of something else to do with the coat being put over the head. BUt most likely it was due to pain and discomfort of the ears when the coat went over. I suggest finding or making some sort of coat that wraps around without having to go over the head? Or just a really really big hole for the head that can be closed with a draw string after being put on. If possible start conditioning the coat in small steps so that the dog doesnt suddenly think its a coat like his previous coat. Unless its extremely freezing, you coudl just have no coat and take shorter more frequent walks. For the ears it will take time and training. Breaking the steps up so small that he is choosing to do the behavior, I suggest researching Chirag Patels Bucket Game and teaching a chin rest behavior to go along with that. Hiring a trainer who uses positive reinforcement to solve the issue would be a good idea to write you a plan to break the steps up small enough and get the training initiated. Show you how to see early warning signs that your dog is uncomfortable and teach the dog a way of saying "please stop" such as by backing away or turning the head, instead of going strait to aggression.
I have a japanese spitz male 2 years old.I have a problem with my dog. He tried to sleep in my dad's bed and my dad tried to get him off the bed and he aggressively bit in his stomach and hands. And after an hour when i came home and i tried to tie the dog he attacked me again. He attacked me very aggressively with no warnings, he was coming after me again and again to bite. He play bites aswell. When he is angry he growls and tries to defend hinself. I really need your help. Can i train him now? Or is it too late. I want his aggresion to go away completely. I accept the fact that i tie him most of the time because there is no space in home. I hope you reply.
I am sure the dog gave you lots of warning signals before he bit you. It is good to know the dogs' warming signals. They can lick their lips, yawn, move their head to one side, move their body to show their side or even the back towards you. There are many things they do to tell you that they are uncomfortable and unsure. You probably did something to him that scared him (something that resembled some earlier experience of his). Maybe he felt corned and unable to get out of the situation. You have to speak calmly and softly, and move calmly so the dog doesn't see you as a threat. Watch where you hands are around the dog. Don't move them quickly around his head. The most important thing is a soft voice and no sudden movements. Your dog is most likely scared in certain situations. He is not aggressive. I wouldn't worry to much about it. You'll figure it out.
discovered your videos today. so good and so well explained! you make it much easier for me to get inside the dog's perspective. and none of the alpha/domination stuff, which i really appreciate. I was wondering if you had any thoughts on a weird (unwanted) behavior of my dog: whenever he is being held by, or otherwise receiving affection from another person, if he makes eye contact with me or if I approach him, he will growl at me (only me). He will escalate to aggressive snarling with teeth bared, but will not bite unless I make a sudden movement near his mouth. I suspect it is possessive behavior, He doesn't want playtime to end, and sees me as the person who interrupts his fun. How can I get him to stop this behavior? I cannot move him because if I do, it escalates and he becomes even more agitated and confirmed in his suspicions of me, so his defensiveness was warranted.
Hi Henry, I actually just finished writing an article on guarding that might help you. dogmantics.com/resource-guarding-protocol/ It's quite a long read but my intention was to help those with different issues
you can use an egg sonic or any other noise emitting training tool. It just distracts them from what they are doing and brings the attention back to you.
It depends on what behavior it is and your dog. At the end of the video I said if you need to stop a behavior in an emergency, you can go and get the dog (but teach the dog in training sessions to not find being picked up or led by the collar intimidating) You need to train the interrupters in training sessions then proof them. . I suggest playing the game in this video- ruclips.net/video/iIR3MtTSyIw/видео.html Calling your dog away from food as a first step.
I have a dog who likes to alert us (by barking) when she hears noises outside (ones we usually can’t hear). I’d like her to do almost anything else besides barking. Do you have suggestions on alternate behaviors to barking?
Hi Jennifer, I suggest doing what I write about in this article called "noisy training" where you make noises outside your house in training sessions, then in between you have music or white noise on. If the dog barks in between you can use the leave it cue. dogmantics.com/solving-barking-at-noises/
They are in the description but I will copy paste for your convenience. Attention noise: ruclips.net/video/w4ASIKw-urY/видео.html ruclips.net/video/TBvPaqMZyo8/видео.html Recall: ruclips.net/video/iIR3MtTSyIw/видео.html Leave it: Leave it from dogs and people- ruclips.net/video/6jYfKK17ZBs/видео.html Stationing behavior: -Go to bed ruclips.net/video/U2c5EkytNU0/видео.html&t -Go to crate ruclips.net/video/dUzF0g0PwY4/видео.html&t Drop it: ruclips.net/video/tVivnOwiMoA/видео.html&t Let’s Go: ruclips.net/video/Eo-L2qtD7MQ/видео.html&t Alternate behavior: In the video I talk about how you can teach “Back up” to interrupt behavior. ruclips.net/video/nBAz0kqeJYg/видео.html&t Release cue: ruclips.net/video/tKHTYneseaw/видео.html Treat lure: This link starts at the time in a video where I use a treat to lure a dog back into a down stay who got up www.youtube.com/watch… Sit stay video shows what to do when the dog gets up - ruclips.net/video/ksBLKi6lj1s/видео.html Move the dog: Train your dog in training sessions the behaviors you need to use in an emergency: -Pick the dog up ruclips.net/video/6jaxuTuH2ow/видео.html -Jump up for little dogs ruclips.net/video/uasHnMzJC4k/видео.html&t -Move the dog by the collar ruclips.net/video/62NNwZtbtIA/видео.html -Use leash pressure to move the dog ruclips.net/video/Q4vEayrRyB0/видео.html&t
What if the thing the dog is doing is far more reinforcing than the alternate behaviours you have listed? An example would be a dog with a high prey drive chasing sheep. How would you use force free methods to address this?
Stop your dog from having access to sheep until you're confident they will listen to you. Start training by having a single sheep somewhere far away and some great reward for ignoring the sheep.
I suggest first teaching your dog to settle on a mat when on leash with sheep behind a fence as the first step. I wouldnt have the dog off leash around distractions he cant be called away from until you have worked on those specific distractions. This would be the first step to calling your dog from prey- first teaching them to come away from something they are eating -ruclips.net/video/iIR3MtTSyIw/видео.html
Thank you for this informative video😄🙏 As far as I understood, you haven't mentioned calling a dog's name. Isn't it a suitable way to interrupt unwanted behaviour? Thank you so much, I will be very grateful if you reply the question.
I loose atention and get ignored when bad behaviour rise, as bark at dogs, biting me when he wakes up bcs teeth ache, or anything he feels he want to do but jknows he should not
I'm not taking on any new clients but If you google "kikopup" and the issue like "leave it" you might find I have made a tutorial on the thing you need a training tutorial for.
Is saying “no” “eh-eh” or pushing on your dog’s rear to get them to sit cruel or inhumane? No. Of course it’s not. But is it in line with the idea of training by reinforcing behavior. No. It is not. When you start adding in physical or psychological intimidation into your training, even the mildest, you change a simple picture into a very complex one. It is no longer easy to tell why an animal isn’t performing a specific behavior. And by mixing intimidation and reinforcers, you can water down the reinforcement value of your reinforcers causing you to have to turn to harsher and more frequent intimidation… because the “reinforcement is not working”. Punishment for incorrect behavior implies that the animal did something wrong rather than the training plan being badly thought out, so if you didn’t break the steps up correctly for the dog to learn, the dog is punished rather than the trainer.
The side effects of mixing physical and psychological intimidation into training is that you water down the reinforcers you use in the process, making them not as powerful. This makes it difficult to work with your dog when you are competing with other reinforcing things in the environment as the dog can seem like he doesn’t really want to be around you or what you have to offer and prefers the other things over you. And it can seem like your dog is “blowing you off”, being stubborn, or not listening because he is naughty. The only option you then have is turning to more intimidation and punishment to get your dog to listen and stay with you.
The problem with main stream dog training such as shows on tv, is that you will be told what you want to hear and what agrees with what you already know to keep you listening and engaged. You want to hear that you simply just say “No!” or throw something at your dog to get them to behave. Easy peasy just what you wanted to hear. If it was as simple as that to change behavior without behavioral or psychological side effects, then there would be no jails because we could just tell those who have committed a crime “No” and threaten them to not do it again.
The truth is, the training plan that will be the most effective with the least amount of side effects isn’t something easy or what you already believe to work. If so you probably wouldn’t be still having the issue. Sometimes the most effective solution, does involve a time commitment and careful planning of a behavior modification plan. It is, of course always disappointing to find this out. That you actually have more work and learning to do than you anticipated, but do you want to be fed the truth or keep sailing down the river of being fed what you want to hear?
Being fed down the river of what I want to hear? There is entirely too much of that in this world. Especially by the media. It's called confirmation bias. Great video 👍 now I have a lot of work to do 🐾
I like your way of thinking. Do you want to join my gang?
do you know what i can do when i do my "car park routine" (sometimes parallel park, shift to park, roll up windows and sunroof, start gathering belongings in the car, etc)...my 1yr old dog will cry-bark and whine so loud right in my ear and people outside my car probably think i am lighting the dog on fire lol...i have tried marking the behaviour by getting hype with him and encouraging him to "HYPE UP BUDDY, WE ARE HERE, ARE YOU READY?!?!" etc because i heard that i need to first be able to ask for this crying before i can tell him to stop it...that hasnt worked (or i havent done it long enough cuz its embarassing when exiting the car lol)...now i ignore the cry-barks, but its really loud in my ear...usually i am driving/parking/preparing at the time so that takes a lot of attention to actually park a car, mind traffic, and distract my dog at the same time...any suggestions? i have tried parking far away from the parks but he just does it whenever i park the car and roll up windows and stuff.
So true. In this world of quick fixes, people look for ' hacks' for their dogs. I'm always surprised when dog owners I've met on walks smack or yank their dogs for 'bad behaviour.' As humans I think it's beholden on us to use our minds to think around a problem behaviour:why did that happen? What was the dog doing that for? It's been brilliant to have tips from you what to do instead. I have used 'leave it' or 'let's go' for many situations. I used to think 'leave it' was just for not eating food on the street but it's been a revelation to use it for 'leave the tiny puppy' or 'don't chase the bird' - so simple! Why didn't I think of that before? Thank you so much! ☺️ 👍
Following.
You taught me the "positive interrupter" years ago (it feels like 10 or more). I've adapted it slightly to become "reflex to name". I progressively reinforce my dog's names to the point it becomes reflexive. At that point, it's a very powerful interrupter/attention getter. I've been told you need to get 2000-2500 reps in to get it really reliable. Trained interrupters are the way forward.
Every owner should build a good foundational skill set to enable them to help their dogs navigate through life. Invaluable video that every dog owner should see.
Thanks :) It is powerful stuff. Its hard to get people to understand who have not seen it or tried it. I really need to make some modern videos on the topic.I have them in my online courses and VODS but not online. I cringe when I watch my old youtube videos as I have grown so much as a trainer and also learned better ways of describing training scientifically.
@@kikopup
One of the most important and significant things you've done is practically demonstrate force free approaches that work. By putting out high quality content into the public domain, everyone can see the evidence for themselves. It's the most effective way to a) silence the critics and b) inspire people to adopt or at least experiment with a less invasive approach.
Chad Mackin's "Something to Bark About" podcast this week was an excellent, inspiring rant about influencing the industry to aspire to more dog friendly techniques by putting good content out there. When people like Tyler Muto cite you as one of the trainers we should be aspiring to be more like, you know you're doing something right and should be proud of your work.
Dog Training by Kikopup your old videos are still very good and informative!! Your channel is my favorite on this topic and I always recommend it to all my dog owning friends. I’ve been watching for a couple of years now and im am actually getting a dog next month. I’m so glad all your videos are available, old or new - they are an invaluable source of information.
You are really amazing at reminding us that dogs can be very sensitive and need to be shown even the simple task of picking them up can be intimidating.
One of my dogs favorite treats, cheese, works when nothing else does, like barking at delivery vehicles. If he is not interested in his cheese, I know his state of mind makes him incapable of complying. Saves so much frustration.
Sorry for the inconvenience. I had to republish this video.
Nothing to Appoliges for. Without you kikopup, I & many others wouldn't have the relationship/bond we have with our dogs. Thank you. Love your channel & all what you do. Much appreciated.
Oh phew, sent it to a few clients so very thankful it's still here.
My dog would not sleep so calmly in the background while I talk . This is amazing .
This clarified a bit about positive reinforcement training that I was unclear on. Thank you.
not all positive reinforcement trainers train the same. Some still believe in the idea of ignoring unwanted behavior....so you might feel confused still...
Thank you so much for all your wonderful vidoes!
One thing I'm curious about after watching this one is- how do you prevent inadvertently creating a "behavior chain" with the undesired behavior being seen, in the dog's mind, as the beginning of something fun? (E.g. the dog learns that: "if I bark, my human asks for "place" and then I get a reward!"). I know that such a behavior chain can definitely be a risk if redirection type tactics aren't done carefully, and obviosuly there are ways to prevent it! Since you have so much experience and such a wonderful, thorough, and clear way of explaining and demonstrating, I would love to hear you dive into that topic! :-)
Thank you for this video it’s exactly what I have been needing 😃
Thanks! I think you inadvertently answered two questions I had, without me having to ask or even meaning to! The loveliness of autoplay. Great advice, love your channel!
Love your videos, Emily. You are a source that I and many others direct people to for training advice. Keep up the wonderful work and content.
I love your videos and how clearly you explain. Can’t thank you enough for all you do and provide.
My 11 week old Sheltie has been proving to be more of a handful than my previous Belgian Shepherd. Colour me surprised! I’ve needed to change my approach with him and you’ve been such an amazing resource for me.Thank you again.
Awe. Well I always find the dogs that are the handful are also amazingly intelligent and can outshine the easy dogs :)
That was great and very helpful for all dog handlers. Really good to see some clear, plain english, info on what to do when things go (potentially) wrong. And you've supplied us with plenty of tools to suit all situations.
I love this. Thanks so much for your videos. I love how detailed, and calming they are. Very helpful.
Awe thanks so much for letting me know :) It means a lot!
You are an absolute gem! You have helped me SOOOO much! Thank you for all you do to help us new puppy owners!
Very useful information! Especially the.bit about teaching leash pressure
It amazes me why anyone would give this a thumbs down, great stuff ! I'm about to qualify as a behaviourist/trainer and your videos have helped me so much along the way with my learning. Truly grateful and hope i can do a good job and help many dogs and their guardians as you have :)
Well we all have different opinions on training based on our learning and experience so of course people will have other ideas and also some yt people like to thumbs down their competition.
It's truly amazing that your dogs are more reinforced to stay at bed than actually get released as you twice said free 😛. They didn't even flinched. I don't know if there is a video about this, but what do you do with overly focused dogs, how you redirect their focus. I'm stuck in a binary problem where my dog (stranger/human reactive) is either going to be super focused on me (which is a good thing I guess) or is going to be overly focused to something else (usually smells/environment in general). I'm having a bit of a trouble to compete with the environment. Great video as always! 😊
Well they are used to me talking and also taking turns and listening to me blab on and I do try to say the cues a little differently when talking to the camera. I suggest when you go somewhere and your dog is distracted you can either play settle on a mat- where you just sit in one place and reinforce the dog for laying down on the mat. You can also at home play this game until the dog understands it - ruclips.net/video/2-ezmzKZ8kM/видео.html Then when out and about, buy putting the bowl of treats on the ground, most dogs will start to focus on "that" as the distraction rather than the rest of the environment. Obviously if the environment is too overwhelming youll have to being where the dog can succeed and be interested in food. Stay positive. Most dogs are distracted when out and about. It took my two Border Collies a long time to not be distracted out and about when training because they were worried about people and dogs.
Thanks for linking the videos this was very helpful! and I love ur way of teaching but i better learn first to then be able to teach my dog! :)
Thanks! This was very informative.. Ive got a few ideas of how to handle crazy Wiley now during play that escalates into chasing his smaller friends..
Or in my house where the "smaller friend" Tug the terrier starts to get too excited for his own good.
Love your training videos ! And your dogs are beautifull !!
Great video, thank you! Also, I was so confused initially by the visuals - everything is so monochromatic aside from your upper body and the smaller pup, it looked like one of those color selective filters, haha.
You are so generous in sharing your knowledge! Thank you! I just love your method and am really happy that I have found, in my city ( Sherbrooke, Québec, Canada ), a training school that uses exactly this method. Jon and I are now taking the autocontrol course and we both love it! I still refer to you for training that can’t wait. My Jon Poodle is a jumper, of course, and I will try right now what you have suggested to redirect his attention. Although he is food motivated being petted and having guests is such a strong reward in itself for him, I am at a bit of a loss as to what to use to counter that and getting his paws on the floor and calming down. He is really good in all his exercises in training but hasn’t yet crossed the bridge to applying what he has learned to everyday circumstances. I have to find something quick before he hurts someone. He is a medium Poodle and now weighs 29 pounds so he can easily hurt or throw a child down. It’s also a shame that this pandemic deprives us of opportunities to training this as we still can’t see many people. Thank you so much for your dedication and spreading the good news: no need for intimidation of any kind in trainning your best friend :)
Thank you so much kikopup. These videos are priceless. I've helped my own dogs as well as some friends.
I really really appreciate you taking the time to teach us all.
Lo mejor que pude ver!!! Excelente contenido
Awesome video!
This is an impressive list of videos and resources. Thank you for making so much valuable training information available.
A lot of good information and thank you you know I came up with my own creative way to teach my dog to stop barking at unnecessary stuff I caught her at a good moment when she was howling form a noise that I made so I taught her how to how with that noise that I made on command now whenever she decides bark for unnecessary reason I just give her the command to how and I do this several times to the point where she just gets tired of it and said this is not fun anymore and she stops and it works real well she's a Yorkie
Haha! Clever!
You explain things so well. Thank you.
Great information, thank you for all the solid content you make available! I did have a question on the suggestion of interrupting the undesired behavior (say biting the leash) and asking for an alternative behavior (like Watch Me) then rewarding the Watch Me. Don't you run a high risk of creating a behavior chain? Pull on leash, person asks for something else, get rewarded... so the dog would easily learn to pull on the leash to earn a reward? How do you prevent that behavior chain like that? If you didn't reinforcement alternative behavior you asked for (at least occasionally) there would be a lot less motivation for the dog to perform the alternative behavior you are asking for instead of the undesired behavior that is generally self reinforcing in someway to the dog.
Well I dont remember if I talked about it in this video, but in training sessions you reinforce the interrupter, and build its power, but in real life situations you are right you dont want to create a behavior chain that includes the undesirable behavior, so you dont provide a treat for the behavior, instead tell the dog what to do. If it was an amazing feat, you might reinforce, like say your dog never recalled from chasing a deer before... and you were impressed. Then you would make a mental note to go and do training sessions of the behavior you WOULD want the dog to do around deer running which is to ignore them, and you can do that in training sessions. Here is the formula for solving unwanted behavior - ruclips.net/video/6vAk98000wc/видео.html Teach, reinforce, interrupt and prevent. Interrupting behavior just stops the animal from doing the behavior to prevent it being rehearsed. The important thing you need to do is make the environmental cue that caused the undesirable behavior a STRONGER cue for the new behavior. So for example, if the dog picked up rabbit poops on walks, The dog sees the poo, triggers the dog to want to pick it up, you tell the dog drop it or leave it, and then keep walking... Thats not going to train the dog never to go toward or pick up the poo because first the dog sees it, heads toward it, then you give the second cue... SO to get a dog that completely leaves the poo alone where you never have to tell him to not eat it as hes eating it, you set up training sessions teaching a default leave it from food on the floor, then practice outside in the grass and then with rabbit poop, on leash then off. If that makes sense. The key to ending a behavior you dont like, is building a behavior you DO want to be stronger. In terms of leash biting though, in an adult dog it could be the side effect of an emotion, say the dog is frustrated or over aroused. So to get rid of the side effect you could simply teach the dog to be calm or show impulse control and the biting would disappear. Usually as a trainer I approach changing both the emotion and the behavior. :)
@@kikopup thank you. Great explanation
Thank you for sharing this, so much great advice!
“Leave it” and “Let’s go!” Work great for getting my dogs attention! He still barks at knocks at the door, but We’re working on saying “crate” so he does go in his crate but he still barks lol
You can put a sign on your door to not knock. (they could call or text) or leave packages next to the door in a basket. Sometimes dogs bark cause they are startled. I myself jump out of my skin when my neighbor sneaks into my yard and knocks on my door when Im not expecting it. So sure you can work on it, and get your dog to not bark when the door is knocked but youll need to keep up the training if months go by and then suddenly knocking happens after a really long period of no knocking... because the dog most likely will be startled.
@@kikopup That makes sense! I don't really mind him barking, but neighbors complain about it sometimes. We have some really non-dog friendly neighbors. They even come out of their house and yell at us to keep our pup off their property when we're just walking by on the sidewalk!!
My dog is a year old now, and once it gets dark outside she likes to run around the garden and bark. I personally don’t mind this, however in Ireland it’s illegal to have noise disturbances and I don’t want to disturb my neighbours and have to get rid of my dog. I have to let her out in the evening to go to the toilet etc, but once she gets out she won’t come back in. We’ve tried luring her with treats and toys but it doesn’t work. We can’t chase and catch her as the garden is big and she can’t be caught, and also she enjoys being chased as she things it’s a game and I don’t want to reinforce this behaviour.
Let her out off leash during the day and play with her- day time is for fun time. Night time, take her out on a long line for a while to break the habit. Call her frequently to give her a treat, then release her to go do stuff. You can sprinkle treats in the grass after she goes to teh bathroom and have her sniff to find them. This will get her mind off running around like a lunatic and barking. This could progress to her being off leash, you calling her and letting her go back ... and also playing the find the treats in the grass game at night instead of barking and running.
Wish I learned that about desensitisation of being picked up as we’d pick up our frenchie pup when biting our toes and put her in a pen for a time-out and this led to her biting at our hands when we reached for her harness to get a hold of her and then this became a game of her biting us intentionally to get attention then running off barking then coming back to bite us to get us to reach for her so she could play keep away with herself and us.
We now use a leash indoors and when she has these frenzied episodes (less frequent since we started timeouts) of attention seeking where she bites our toes we lead her into the pen with the leash this way we can avoid having to grab at her to pick her up which I think scares her as she flinches when I reach to pet her sometimes
Thank you! It was very helpful!
Here's a behavior I'm having real trouble with. An 11-week old Aussie. Often, when I take her in the back to go potty, she starts attacking my legs, leaping at them and sinking her teeth into my pants or my skin. I tried the turn-away-and-ignore method, going flat, but she keeps going, happy to tug and rip my pants and sometimes draw blood from my skin. I tried the yelping-like-a-pup method, but she takes that as encouragement, it seems. What I've taken to doing is turning my back, and holding my leash arm out behind me, so she can't reach my legs. This probably encourages her more, though, and maybe it becomes a game for her, as I'm restraining her. She leaps, mouth open, and reaches the end of the leash and harness, and flopping down on the ground. She does it over and over. Then I have to pick her up, carry her inside, and put her in her crate. The whole time she's wriggling and trying to get her teeth on my, and play snarling. My interpretation is that she's overtired in these moments, but I still have to take her out to go.
Oh my god! Thank you so much for all of this valuable information!!
Like a toddler…. Redirect, redirect, redirect… worked well on my GSD puppy’s furniture chewing.
When we had a crazy barking pitt bull neighbor, instead of letting my boxer-lab dog bark back reactively at the fence, I would call her to me and pet her and give love and attention like crazy. Soon my dog learned to ignore the neighbor dog barking and seek me instead.
so wonderful
Emily, do you mentally stimulate your dogs daily? Are they self reinforced by relaxing? Were they always calm? Do you think dogs who are constantly mentally and physically stimulated can start to expect it more?
Very helpful thank you
Many of your videos have been very helpful. In this case....I wish you could cover the topic with some live clips. My dog is extremely reactive to skateboarders. When he sees them in a skaterpark he will start barking and screaming as if you were cutting his skin of. Although he would run towards the skaters and try to stop them (bordercollie!!!), my impression is that he is scared(tail tugged in).
Attention noises will not reach him, food is not luring enough and when I try to move him, I have to drag him along. Very unpleasant for everyone involved.
I would appreciate it very much, if you could make a video on some of those real hardcore cases. That certainly wont work with any of your welltrained dogs...........maybe you find someone like mine to demonstrate and "heal" him!!
I'm no professional trainer, but I would look at her videos on reactive dogs. Your dog is reactive to the skateboarders, which is a little different than just wanting to interrupt a behavior your dog is doing. The basic gist is figuring out how close you can get without your dog reacting so strongly they can't recognize you're talking to them/won't take a treat. Then reward them for their calm behavior. You'll gradually be able to get closer without your dog reacting because they'll start to understand that there's no danger/the thing isn't that interesting/etc. This is how I got my dog to be chill around cats (for the most part... We're still working on it lol)
Great video Emily!
Thanks Mary! :)
This is such a good video!
Thank you!
@@kikopup I agree
"so if your dog is chewing on the wall" made me laugh
kendell church this actually happened once w my puppy LOL she was teething and i left her unsupervised without a chew toy. totally my fault and not so unrealistic scenario >_
Thank you
Any Idea on how to handle this? We are fostering a small chihuahua for a local humane society, we are trying to make him adoptable. One issue is that when you try to put a collar on him, his freaks out and tries to bite. I'm feeling like he was trained with a shock collar by previous owners. We don't believe in shock collars. We can get the collar on him by distracting him with a treat while we put it on, but then, when we try to put the leash on him to walk him, we go thru the same issue. He tries to bite, and same issue again trying to take the leash off, any recomendation?
I suggest first getting check up and an xray of the neck and back and rule out that there is not physical pain or arthritis. Because if there is physical pain, all the training will be useless as it hurts all the time that its happening. I suggest instead training the dog to wear a harness with a wide enough hole that it doesnt mess with his head or neck as it goes on, or the step in type that they step into like a bra and then you buckle it over the back so it doesnt touch the neck. All the steps need to be broken up small enough so that the dog is having a positive emotional response every step of the way, so if he starts to look worried or agitated the steps need to be broken up smaller. ruclips.net/video/_DJQsVobla8/видео.html I also suggest that people use harnesses with dogs because collars can actually cause neck damage and neck pain, when the dog hits the end of the leash on accident or the owner pulls on it.
Thank you so much for your videos! You are so good at explaining training!
Thanks I try my best. Sometimes I can be a little boring and repetitive. But I try not to be.
Your dogs are gorgeous!!! Can I ask what breed they are?❤️❤️❤️
They are border collies
Awesome content
Thanks!
When will you be in the Philadelphia area? I need you to help me face to face with my little dog.
I have been traveling and doing seminars for 10 years now and now I am settling down and not traveling so much. But you can check trainers in your area through Iaabc , Pet Professional Guild or Karen Pryors academy
Great video 👍
This was a great video!
I think the Leave It for me may work best rather interrupted noise with a reward for coming as that may encourage bad behavior for a treat.
What to do with a dog GSD who is 'very independent' ie doesn't have a good report with me and barks at another dog or cat when we walk. Do I continue on walking and completely ignore it (being a confident owner), do I say no(souns like barking to her), moving in another direction is not a solution always if the other dog approaches regardless as we end up going sme direction (dog will loom back) or we need to turn back to go to our destination(like home) - cannot keep running from dogs all the time
Its a very common problem with herding breeds. Honestly the best way to make the fastest progress with this situation, is to do training setups with decoy dogs. So you have a trainer who has a bunch of dogs that are calm and friendly to use, and you practice with your dog first being calm at a distance and then progress to doing pass bys. The wonderful thing about a set up is that you can ask the other person with the dog to stop and your dog feels safe enough not to react. I suggest looking for a trainer who uses positive reinforcement to help you feel that other dogs showing up is a good thing.
I agree mostly. Except for when a dog is jumping. My service dog in training would jump all the time and I had to ignore her till she realized she needed to sit for pets. Which now she is perfectly good, only took her a month to get the idea. So yeah in some situations you need to ignore but definitely not chewing, biting and all the other things you listed in your video.
I would say you can ignore if you are a good trainer. Because you are using extinction. If you were to use extinction, and you'd not reinforced any alternate behavior you do want your dog to do, the dog might switch to another behavior you dont like or also do behaviors related to frustration. So for a novice trainer I would suggest them teach settle on a dog bed when being ignored. The problem is, a lot of people at a certain point show some form of reaction to the jumping, some people will laugh, others will finally say "THATS ENOUGH!" and what can happen is that the dog is reinforced for duration, or jumping harder. Sadly I met someone who ignored barking then the dog started nudging her and when she ignored that the dog bit her, she said "Ow!" then it happened a few more times, and the dog learned to bite her to get attention even though it was negative attention. So you really have to know your dog. If you have a dog who is noisy or easily frustrated I suggest not ignoring behaviors. Interrupt and focus on building that alternate behavior to be strong.
@@kikopup so im just a little interested, what is your method to stop dogs from jumping? My dog already broke the habit but I was just curious
@@XX-sv3qu It really depends on the dog. Some jump when they are calm. Some jump when they are too excited. So if the dog is too excited it's a different plan than a calm dog. I would work first on the dog just being calm with the person in the house. So they could be behind a baby gate and settle on a mat for treats first. Then when calmer greet the guest.
Here are a couple of suggestions. Be calm and turn your back to the dog. Or the side. Stand still. Those are calming signals that all dogs know. Don't make eye contact with the dog. Another calming signal is moving your head slowly from one side to the other. You can also yawn a couple of times. When the dog has calmed down, you can sit down and greet it. All dogs greet each other when they meet. It is a whole ritual for them. They want to greet humans in more or less the same way.
Hallo i am from Indonesia .Bali may know.what breed is your dog
Love this video, any thoughts on what to do to prevent a certain behaviour in one of my dogs, he will sit by my feet (he’s a papillon) and bark at me for attention, if I ignore as you say it just gets worse.
My border collie likes to run around like crazy, i do exercise her but i can only do so in the afternoon so the entire morning she drives me crazy! She likes to throw her chew toy around and chase it or dig around in her bed. How do i calm her down when puberty is getting her a bit cheeky.. :(
Dogs need to move for their bodies to grow normally. Like children. But sometimes dogs can become obsessive. I suggest working on the settle ruclips.net/video/wesm2OpE_2c/видео.html Also for the morning you can do mental stimulation like training, or something as simple as a find it game, where you hide treats around the house or around the yard and cue her to find them. First simple then hard.
how can I ensure that the dog doesn't do these unwanted behaviors when i'm not at home? what if they only listen/stop the behavior when i tell him to but otherwise when i'm not around, he continues (for example, biting furniture when i'm not home)
I suggest leaving the dog in a large accident proof pen when you arent home then start teaching the dog to be left longer and longer in another room with the door closed with music on when you are home so you can interrupt any chewing on stuff behavior. You can even set up a camera. Sometimes dogs chew furniture also because they are stressed about being alone so that could also be the issue you might be having. Keep getting your dog interested in dog chews to chew on and have bones to chew when you are home and also in his pen when away so he learns to go to those when feeling like chewing. When finally loose in the house after training you can put something that doesnt smell good on all the chair legs and wood skirting such as wintergreen oil which smells minty. But for the couch its difficult because wintergreen oil stains furniture as its an oil.
@@kikopupthank you so much! this is extremely helpful
My dog knows all these things really well voice and body language commands. I put a lot of effort in to it a lot!!!!! But his pray drive for rabbits especially is way to high that it all goes out a window when one runs across the road. I can’t control rabbits running across the road in front of us. So he can never be off leash as if he was he would be gone and then probably get killed by kangaroos as he would chase them as well.
Thanks a lot!!!!
Your videos are so helpful! I'm not only learning dog training techniques, I'm understanding why the techniques work too 🤍🤍
Awe thanks! That means a lot to me!
What about when you are unable to interrupt their behavior when they are too excited?
How about a 13 week old puppy growling at me and my husband, because she is not allowed to jump on the Couch? I assume she wants to cuddle or attention, which i give her, i just don't want her up there. Sometimes i get on the floor with her, but not everytime, because she needs to learn that. Any Suggestion?
Thank you for these very useful informations!😍❤
Should you teach a small pup to be picked up even if they grow into a bigger dog? Like a golden retriever? Perhaps it can be transitioned into a cuddle command..?
I think it's always a good idea, say if you need to help the retriever into a car if they get hip dysplasia as an adult. There is also the restraint exercise here to work on ruclips.net/video/G1Otlr6RX7o/видео.html
@@kikopup thank you so much. Last question, I’m trying to crate train my pup but she seems to like switching positions a lot! So her play pen she seems to sleep here there etc.
Do all dogs enjoy being in the same bed? Is it a bed issue? She prefers our wood floor so I got her a plastic mat thing for a hard surface. She does sleep but not for long. She will want to come out to immediately sleep elsewhere.
Do you have any insight if it’s a problem with the crate or more on my training to make the crate a nice place to be in?
(She does voluntarily hang out sometimes only to come out later and we always feed her in the crate)
Your Aussies are soooo gorgeous. EDIT: oh wait, they're merle Collies. Still gorgeous.
Hi, we have a 2 year old Frenchie and just got a 10 week old Blue Heeler, he’s very hyper and jumpy we are trying to train him, but he seems to be selective with cues. My Frenchie is very gentle with him but he’s gotten aggressive when play fighting, I often have to separate them by making a noise or moving them. Should we let them continue this habit of playing? I’m afraid we are creating an aggressive Blue Heeler by letting him play so much with our Frenchie, he bites and has punctured her today, I know Blue Heelers need a lot of exercise, my husband wanted a hiking companion, but I’m afraid if this continues I’ll have to find him a new home. Any suggestions ?
Yes, it does sound like the play is not appropriate and you are right to have concern. You could get a trainer in to look at it. But I would suggest no playing with each other. You could reinforce them for settling on their beds instead. And over time teach them each to play with toys on their own if they are interested in biting at something.
My dog becomes aggressive when I put his coat on or off him. He snarls and jerks around. I have to muzzle him. He also doesn’t allow me to take care of his ears. He’s had several infections and I have had to bring him to the vet at a great expense because he doesn’t allow me to put the drops in his ears. What should I be doing? Thanks. I really need help.
Its hard to know if the coat issue is to do with the ears. It could be due to something else like neck pain or a dislike of something else to do with the coat being put over the head. BUt most likely it was due to pain and discomfort of the ears when the coat went over. I suggest finding or making some sort of coat that wraps around without having to go over the head? Or just a really really big hole for the head that can be closed with a draw string after being put on. If possible start conditioning the coat in small steps so that the dog doesnt suddenly think its a coat like his previous coat. Unless its extremely freezing, you coudl just have no coat and take shorter more frequent walks. For the ears it will take time and training. Breaking the steps up so small that he is choosing to do the behavior, I suggest researching Chirag Patels Bucket Game and teaching a chin rest behavior to go along with that. Hiring a trainer who uses positive reinforcement to solve the issue would be a good idea to write you a plan to break the steps up small enough and get the training initiated. Show you how to see early warning signs that your dog is uncomfortable and teach the dog a way of saying "please stop" such as by backing away or turning the head, instead of going strait to aggression.
Thank you so much!
I have a japanese spitz male 2 years old.I have a problem with my dog. He tried to sleep in my dad's bed and my dad tried to get him off the bed and he aggressively bit in his stomach and hands. And after an hour when i came home and i tried to tie the dog he attacked me again. He attacked me very aggressively with no warnings, he was coming after me again and again to bite. He play bites aswell. When he is angry he growls and tries to defend hinself. I really need your help. Can i train him now? Or is it too late. I want his aggresion to go away completely. I accept the fact that i tie him most of the time because there is no space in home. I hope you reply.
I am sure the dog gave you lots of warning signals before he bit you. It is good to know the dogs' warming signals. They can lick their lips, yawn, move their head to one side, move their body to show their side or even the back towards you. There are many things they do to tell you that they are uncomfortable and unsure. You probably did something to him that scared him (something that resembled some earlier experience of his). Maybe he felt corned and unable to get out of the situation. You have to speak calmly and softly, and move calmly so the dog doesn't see you as a threat. Watch where you hands are around the dog. Don't move them quickly around his head. The most important thing is a soft voice and no sudden movements. Your dog is most likely scared in certain situations. He is not aggressive. I wouldn't worry to much about it. You'll figure it out.
discovered your videos today. so good and so well explained! you make it much easier for me to get inside the dog's perspective. and none of the alpha/domination stuff, which i really appreciate.
I was wondering if you had any thoughts on a weird (unwanted) behavior of my dog:
whenever he is being held by, or otherwise receiving affection from another person, if he makes eye contact with me or if I approach him, he will growl at me (only me). He will escalate to aggressive snarling with teeth bared, but will not bite unless I make a sudden movement near his mouth. I suspect it is possessive behavior, He doesn't want playtime to end, and sees me as the person who interrupts his fun.
How can I get him to stop this behavior?
I cannot move him because if I do, it escalates and he becomes even more agitated and confirmed in his suspicions of me, so his defensiveness was warranted.
Hi Henry, I actually just finished writing an article on guarding that might help you. dogmantics.com/resource-guarding-protocol/ It's quite a long read but my intention was to help those with different issues
What if my dog already developed a bad behaviour and doesn't listen to the kissing noise? :(
you can use an egg sonic or any other noise emitting training tool. It just distracts them from what they are doing and brings the attention back to you.
It depends on what behavior it is and your dog. At the end of the video I said if you need to stop a behavior in an emergency, you can go and get the dog (but teach the dog in training sessions to not find being picked up or led by the collar intimidating) You need to train the interrupters in training sessions then proof them. . I suggest playing the game in this video- ruclips.net/video/iIR3MtTSyIw/видео.html Calling your dog away from food as a first step.
I have a dog who likes to alert us (by barking) when she hears noises outside (ones we usually can’t hear). I’d like her to do almost anything else besides barking. Do you have suggestions on alternate behaviors to barking?
Hi Jennifer, I suggest doing what I write about in this article called "noisy training" where you make noises outside your house in training sessions, then in between you have music or white noise on. If the dog barks in between you can use the leave it cue. dogmantics.com/solving-barking-at-noises/
Dog Training by Kikopup Thank you!
I apologize for bugging you. You mention an article in the reply above. Do you have a link to it by chance?
Were are the videos?
They are in the description but I will copy paste for your convenience. Attention noise:
ruclips.net/video/w4ASIKw-urY/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/TBvPaqMZyo8/видео.html
Recall:
ruclips.net/video/iIR3MtTSyIw/видео.html
Leave it:
Leave it from dogs and people-
ruclips.net/video/6jYfKK17ZBs/видео.html
Stationing behavior:
-Go to bed
ruclips.net/video/U2c5EkytNU0/видео.html&t
-Go to crate
ruclips.net/video/dUzF0g0PwY4/видео.html&t
Drop it:
ruclips.net/video/tVivnOwiMoA/видео.html&t
Let’s Go:
ruclips.net/video/Eo-L2qtD7MQ/видео.html&t
Alternate behavior:
In the video I talk about how you can teach “Back up” to interrupt behavior.
ruclips.net/video/nBAz0kqeJYg/видео.html&t
Release cue:
ruclips.net/video/tKHTYneseaw/видео.html
Treat lure:
This link starts at the time in a video where I use a treat to lure a dog back into a down stay who got up
www.youtube.com/watch…
Sit stay video shows what to do when the dog gets up - ruclips.net/video/ksBLKi6lj1s/видео.html
Move the dog:
Train your dog in training sessions the behaviors you need to use in an emergency:
-Pick the dog up
ruclips.net/video/6jaxuTuH2ow/видео.html
-Jump up for little dogs
ruclips.net/video/uasHnMzJC4k/видео.html&t
-Move the dog by the collar
ruclips.net/video/62NNwZtbtIA/видео.html
-Use leash pressure to move the dog
ruclips.net/video/Q4vEayrRyB0/видео.html&t
Who else didn’t see that dog until it scratched
What if the thing the dog is doing is far more reinforcing than the alternate behaviours you have listed? An example would be a dog with a high prey drive chasing sheep. How would you use force free methods to address this?
Stop your dog from having access to sheep until you're confident they will listen to you.
Start training by having a single sheep somewhere far away and some great reward for ignoring the sheep.
I suggest first teaching your dog to settle on a mat when on leash with sheep behind a fence as the first step. I wouldnt have the dog off leash around distractions he cant be called away from until you have worked on those specific distractions. This would be the first step to calling your dog from prey- first teaching them to come away from something they are eating -ruclips.net/video/iIR3MtTSyIw/видео.html
Thank you for this informative video😄🙏 As far as I understood, you haven't mentioned calling a dog's name. Isn't it a suitable way to interrupt unwanted behaviour? Thank you so much, I will be very grateful if you reply the question.
Yes indeed! :) Id categorize it under- recall or attention noise. If the name has a meaning to do something, like pay attention or come to you.
my dogs are calm when i am with them but as soon as i am out of sight they bark at the neighbors what can i do to stop that ?
Don't you have to teach what you do want. So teach them to be quiet chew a bone etc or perhaps seek out a behaviourist to work one on one
12:56 jeez, that's my lab's name
I was thinking of a doodle in my head.
@@kikopup she's fluffy enough for us😋
I loose atention and get ignored when bad behaviour rise, as bark at dogs, biting me when he wakes up bcs teeth ache, or anything he feels he want to do but jknows he should not
My dog used to chew on the couch or bed
Anyone else from the Ben Levin playlist?
The dogs on the sofa…. They are stuffed animals?😅😂
Çàñ you help me train my dog
I'm not taking on any new clients but If you google "kikopup" and the issue like "leave it" you might find I have made a tutorial on the thing you need a training tutorial for.
Some things are just too interesting for dogs. I redirect my dog to one of 10 bones or balls and she’d rather chew on things like the sofa.
Please make a dog on severe whining my dog whine all the time
You talk so much how can anyone sit through this. Just c tell us, not sell us