130k kilometers on my N55 and not a single part failed atm. very reliable till now, i think driving it warm and cold solves many issues with this engine.
The people saying X5's won't make it past 100,000 miles clearly have no clue what they are talking about.. I have 165,000+ miles on mine and she still hugs the road like a sports car and rides beautifully.
My F30 N55 is now at 149k miles and is pretty solid. None of these parts have failed, but I did change the valve cover when I had the chance. It's plastic, so it will need to be replaced periodically. Some common sense and good maintenance and these can last you decades.
Thank you for the list here. I replaced everything you listed here on my son's car except rod bearings (I probably should have since I had the oil sump out to replace the gasket), and more as preventative maintenance. I replaced the engine mounts, charge pipes to all aluminum on boost side as well, the water pumps can now be bought with aluminum housings so should last longer, I replaced the entire valve cover. Also the oil level sensor went out and oil pressure control valve (near the vanos control valves) seems to be a bit dodgy occasionally giving me high pressure oils codes, but no check engine light). front main seal would be a good one to add to the list. I did not do it but it will fail. I also had to replace the injectors and code them. I think someone had replaced them before and did a very bad job replacing them because they were not even coded with the correct offsets. Also the radiator hose inlet at the front of the engine is made of plastic and completely disintegrated when I pulled on the hose. I replaced it also with an aluminum one. In good healthy condition, these engines really rip! I am definitely not afraid to work on these engines anymore!
Thank you for this video. As a new BMW owner, I found it very informative. I see that preemptively replacing some parts that are prone to failure will save you a lot of trouble and extend the engines life.
2012 X5 E70 N55 176k did the full list except the Vanos solenoids, and rod bearings, but did do the boost control solenoid, thank God, Dean, RUclips and good maintenance. Im coming to 🇬🇧
I think it also depends on where you live. I live in Texas and its pretty hot down here in the RGV. I got my son a 2016 435i with 48k miles and it now has 92k. So far, I have replaced the thermostat, charge pipe (upgrade it), and valve cover gasket. I just got the oil change and saw the first sign of the rear main seal starting to leak. Other than that, the car still runs great!
Got my 640i LCI at 98k miles last year, now at 118k miles, only thing I've done is the small pcv vent hose £40 (old one cracked), and recently had drivetrain malfunction for the first time ever for the electronic wastegate actuator not closing fully (ive got ISTA) - will try recalibrating, failing that will replace the EWG. Thankfully EWG options are good, Honeywell make one for about £100, genuine BMW is £280ish. Other items - front brakes and discs done, and oil change once. I am losing 1 litre every 4000-5000 miles which is totally acceptable, for an I6 BMW, lol.
Glad to read this I also got a 640i with 58k miles 4 months ago and I was a bit worried when I saw the video, I didn’t knew the Lci one were still EWG. I don’t know if doing the road bearing is worth it considering it can damage the engine or maybe it’s not worth it at this mileage, very happy with that car fun to drive despite its weight thanks to the adaptive drive and excellent car on motor drive as well. Any issues with the charges pipe ? Some failed around 60k miles
Mid 2000 bmws they get better after every maintenance repair, especially if you use quality parts, but in many cases, aftermarket parts proved to be even better than bmw parts lol 😂
So far my high mileage n55 has been reliable, however I'm a huge proponent for preventative maintenance. If you do your own work and do maintenance early, you will have very few issues for a relatively low cost. I wonder if the rod bearing failures could have to do with people not priming the oil pump after service involving oil pan gaskets, oil filter housing gaskets, anything involving oil coolers, ext. BMW didn't have that service bulletin to prime it in the early n55 days. It's cheap insurance that you won't starve your bearings of oil.
this is exactly what happen to my 2011 335i bought it 3 months ago and now I'm in a full engine rebuild cause the previous owner didn't prime the car after the ofhg wish I had realized the issue sooner
@@spacederp4120 ohh man, sorry to hear. I hope a rebuild isn't too pricey compared to buying a used engine. A lot of people these days go the used engine route vs a rebuild. Gotta love how BMW simplified the n55 oil passages to increase vanos reliability but caused a different catastrophic problem even worse than the issue they were trying to prevent 😑
Do you have to prime it after doing a regular oil change & filter? I didn’t know about priming it when I did my first oil change on it. I’m assuming you don’t, but I’ve heard some people say you should. Your thoughts?
@@ChristopherGuilday I'm not sure, I don't prime the oil pump after an oil change. I've read some do as well. I've done about 6 oil changes (5k mile OCI's) since I've had the car, no issues so far. I generally don't let the car sit for too long between it's last drive and first start after the oil change. Could have something to do with it. The main thing is to make sure that plastic bird cage looking piece stays in the OF cap and doesn't get thrown away by accident, sometimes it gets stuck in the old filter during removal. I would prime it every time if I didn't have to unplug 6 brittle injectors every time. Haha
On my N55 after 8 years the first defect.... only when the engine is cold and after starting, the part shakes and shakes as if it were only running on three cylinders, tries to catch itself again and again, but basically almost sinks if you don't counter it with some throttle. However, as long as I keep the revs right at just over 1000 rpm for about a minute or a minute and a half, the engine then runs normally at idle and absolutely smooth. With your experience, this is surely a known problem and probably not a big deal, right? am grateful for any help🙏🙏
Get the engine warm with driving it around for 5 min. Turn car off and unplug the MAF sensor and leave it unplugged. Turn the car back on and let it run for 10 minutes idling. Turn car off. Plug the maf sensor back in. This resets the MAF and it should stop the rough idle after 2-3 cold starts
Thanks bro for doing this video! On your list, I've recently changed water pump, thermostat, expansion tank/cap plus to add to your list lower oil pan gasket. Pretty expensive but so is buying a new or CPO car right now. I have 107k miles and 2nd owner, have taken really good care but very expensive to maintain if you don't have your own shop.
How many miles now? I’m looking at one with 67k miles. M-sport for $21k. But I drive a ton, 20-25k miles a year (mostly highway) so I’m wondering if I should avoid simply due to how quickly it will acquire miles? I can perform a lot of maintenance myself. I really wanna get into a car I can actually build though and I love this platform for the money.
I have a 2013 X6 and I can confirm all of these... That being said, I absolutely love this vehicle and you will have to pry it off of my cold dead foot when I'm gone.
The N55 that was in my 2013 X5 xDrive35i experience the following under my ownership. -Oil filter housing gasket failed -Coolant overflow tank failed -VANOS solenoids failed -Valve cover gasket failed -Oil pan gasket failed -Vacuum line tear causing boost leaks
@@ArisFilms for the vanos. Hesitation on throttle, jerking, fluctating idle and i once stalled when leaving my drive. The engine shut off as i was pulling out. For the vacuum line i beleive it was the one for the boost pressure controller.
Yeah those are all the usual suspects. That oil pan gasket replacement is no joke. I did it myself on jack stands in my garage for my wife's n52 and on my n55 within a 2 week span. It was terrible. But I saved loads of money and drank lots of beer.
Just bought a 2011 535i and can’t wait to get up to date on maintenance. I can’t do them all at once so are there any key specific ones to do right away. I’m trying to maintain it before the parts do go out
None of the common N55 failures are maint (oil/filter, plugs, belt) related, but seem age/heat/time related. SO just check for leaks and expect things to go wrong eventually (electric water pump is the main one that worries me, the others won't lead to engine failure).
my car has 150k miles, bought back in feb 2022, f30 n55. ive had to replace the valve cover gasket n charge pipe. but recently the thermostat went so im getting that done now. but thats what u get with a turbo 6 so
My 2013 x3 35i xdrive I bought with 50k miles on it, only put 10k since I bought it in 2019. Broke down, rod bearings went, total engine replacement at 69k miles. Always taken care of
HAVE A 2012 335I, RECENTLY CHANGED WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT AT 86000 MILES ALSO REPLACED CHARGE PIPE WITH AFTERMARKET ONE(VSRF) CAR WAS DRIVING GREAT. AFTER 10 MILES GOT REDUCED ENGINE POWER. WENT AWAY FOR FEW MILES CAME BACK. 387F POWER MANAGEMENT, CLOSED CIRCUIT CURRENT VIOLATION. 29D0 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR, ELECTRCAL SHORT CIRCUIT TO BATTERY POSITIVE. 29E0 CHARGE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR, ELECTRICAL SHORT CIRCUIT TO BATTTERY POSITIVE. 2D60 VANOS, EXHAUST CONTRO FAULT, CAMSHAFT STUCK. 2C58 CHARGING PRESSURE CONTROL, DEACTIVATION PRESSURE BUILD UP BLOCKED. CODES I GOT FROM REDUCED ENGINE POWER. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT
Thank you for sharing, I wish I had found this video sooner as I am already halfway on this list of failures on my 2013 X1 35i M-sportpackage, at 80 thousand miles, I am really concerned about the Rod Bearing at this point though I have left the engine stock with no remapping, it has enough power for me though I think the engine is tired and does have serious Carbon Buildup. All in all I really love this N55 engine
Just moved from a 320i to a G30 530d. Loving the power and sweet purr of the six-pot. Any tips I need to know about to maintain her in the best condition besides changing oil and filter every 10K miles? (I don't trust BMW's Loooong service intervals). I hear the B57 is pretty solid and reliable, I'll be keeping this one for as long as it lasts or they force me to buy an electric.
10K miles is too much for oil changes. 5k at most and use an oil that is BMW LL12FE+ approved or BMW LL04. Service your transmission at 50k to 70k miles with a new pan & filter and ZF Lifeguard8 fluid. Service your differential(s) and if you have xDrive also your transfer case. Glow plugs and modules
Don’t DO 10k miles oil changes crazy. You trying to ruin your engine??? 3.5-5 k max MAX.That is the issue for the people maintaining the car. Get on the forums and learn. Everybody in these cars know not to push oil change past 5k! Got to keep fresh oil on the rods and ⚙️s. This one step will save your engine. Aslong as it was done from the begging of the n55s life the engine will last a while! Have over 264k miles on my n55 335i 210k miles on my n52 328i 200k on my n51 328i 120k on my n55 e90 335i
Hi, do you know if the valvetronic solenoid are a common issue on these? I’ve got a clicking noise when unlocking the car and believe this to be the issue?
I bought a 2015 535 with similar miles almost a year and a half ago. For me, I did a lot of preventative maintenance. On my engine, it does not have that vacuum hose that the earlier version have. I did replace my valve cover and gasket. It wasn’t showing signs of leaking, but because I’m getting close to 100k miles, not there yet, 5k away, but I still felt it was the best thing to do. I also replaced my injectors as preventative maintenance. Couple issues I had were my engine and transmission mounts were shot and had to replaced immediately. That absolutely sucked replacing them. Like the valve cover, my oil filter housing gasket, water pump and thermostat were not showing signs of failure, but because of the mileage and the fact my car is tuned, I replaced the gaskets, pump and thermostat. The water pump replacement was messy, somewhat challenging, but definitely doable. When I first got the car, I replaced the plugs and coils right away after I replaced those mounts. One failure I recently experienced was the fuel rail pressure sensor. My car would crank, but would not start. It really stumped me because I thought it was the hpfp that had gone bad, but it wasn’t. However at the end of the day, it probably made sense for me to replace both so I can’t complain.
I’m currently debating buying an n55 335i but I’m worried about everything that can go wrong possible happening. How do you feel about buying one of these cars after 100k miles? In my area I can get on for around 15k Canadian with 100k miles (160x km) or for a bit more I can get my other option of a mk7 gti with 60k miles
I got a 2011 335i n55. It was in horrible shape and I needed to do a ton of work on it. I replaced all control arms, bushings and ball joints along with putting in bc racing coilovers. Then I had to replace some coolant lines and the radiator. New valve cover and gasket, new vanos solenoids camshaft position sensors and now I still have check engine lights. I'm currently ordering a throttle body, ignition coils and plugs. Oh also I am using a sensor bypass kit for the passenger seat occupancy sensor. I plan on taking the headlights apart and fixing the broken hardware and motors because one headlight points down. Your mileage will vary but it's possible you will get a really poorly maintained car and you just have to be prepared for that
I just got a 2015 with 80k miles and I’m not even 2 weeks in and it’s a nightmare already, and I’m coming from building subarus so that should say something 😂
you will fall in love with her. They are beautiful , nice , smooth riding vehicles.... but at 100K? get ready to drop $$$$ into them . Still love her to death but she's very expensive. Currently replacing water pump and thermostat
Love how we’re all in the same boat I’ve got a 2011 6 speed e90 m sport and now she’s squealing because the valve cover is going bad , done water pump , thermostat , plugs , coils hoses and gaskets and charge pipes and other repairs and after 2 years of owner ship from 103k miles and now 121k she has never left me stranded never , overheated , no smoke. Take care of them they’ll take care of you just remember like the other homie said be prepared for a car that was cared for poorly and now you’re in 100k mark meaning the second life of the car. Good luck
10 Parts .... all parts that are removable and replaceable from your own drive way........ 10 parts!.... people Complaining 🤦♂️. 100s of other parts that are not accessible at all in your garage/driveway those 100 other parts never break! And never have to deal with... everything listed is simple and takes under a hour to do yourself! I love these cars. Very reliable if the car has been taken care of correctly and not necessarily on BMWs intervals.... change your own oil at 3.5-5k miles from the beginning and your car will last. Replace most preventative maintenance parts yourself and your car will continue to run for manymany years. My n55 has 280k as we speak with stock bearings. All stock no maps. My n54 has 170k. No issues My n52 has 230k no issues. My n51 has 190k no big issues (secondary air).
My 2016 built N55 has 100k miles now and the only 2 problems I had were the water pump and the thermostat. The VCG, oil filter housing gaskets and oil pan get regularly checked for oil leaks and they're all dry. I keep my oil changes to 5k miles and only use Pennzoil LL-01 5w40 unless it's winter. Seems it helps preserves all the gaskets plus zero oil comsumption in over 60k mi !!
@@up-allnight personally I don't see a significant benefit using Liqui Moly or others since my OCI is 5k mi or 6k mi maximum. Liqui Moly is not readily available on the shelf where I live but Motul is (Motul Specific BMW LL-01 FE 5W30, Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 LL-01 5W40 and Motul 8100 X-max LL-01 0W40) are all top choices for an N55); typically I alternate between Pennzoil Platinum Euro, Castrol Edge and Mobil 1.
just do occasional old oil lab samples. that way you can do the rod bearings as prevention from any issues, bc it will happen eventually unfortunately it seems. ive even see n54's here and there. turn of the auto start/stop, and install a proper pcv valve and a catch can if you get on the car a lot.. cuts carbon by ALOT!
Hi Great Video.. it astonishes me that BMW has lots of issues.(and continues to still have them) I have a 2013 x5 35i and i has been fiddling with vehicles all of my life, i purchased this vehicle last year,Why BMW has not "ironed" out these common issues with their vehicles is beyond me.... (at least especially their Gasket issues/belt,crankshaft cover/etc, like why not (bmw engineers) go to a company that can make a gasket without failing..I mean a Human can put a spaceship on the moon and cannot manufacture a reliable Rubber Gasket??.. i had a toyota highlander with 400 thousand and it never leaked at any time and less issues...BMW is suppose to be a "top of the line engineering...BMW Engineers need to get their act togather.ty great explanation sir 100-100
I just replaced the whole engine from 2017 bmw x6 into 2011 bmw 535 xi some changes on setup since it was from 2017 with a EWG setup it took a little time to get it done properly because mine is PWG setup ECU and now have ZERO hedache on everything worth to spend on the engine upgrade
What’s the hose on the left side of the engine that’s wrapped in the silver heat wrap? Also, what’s the sensor that’s below that hose? I think mines leaking. I keep getting oil on that silver tray looking thing on the left. However it doesn’t seem to be my valve cover gasket. One more thing. What’s the hose that’s tucked up above the engine below the windshield cowl?
i’ve been watching you for a while now, i’m actually getting a 2013 335i this weekend, with 75k miles. do you think it’s a good choice and also any common issues that happened during the manufacture of the 2013 n55
I got a 2013 335ix with a 6MT. I love it. I have about 120k more miles on it than you do on yours. haha It's been great. A big thing is to keep on top of maintenance, I do oil changes early, keep on top of oil leaks, and upgrade the charge pipe. Also if you have any service done requiring opening of the engine or oil cooler lines make sure the oil pump is primed! Indy mechanics may not know to do this. Its easy and is cheap insurance. Best of luck!
I’m getting code 120308 charging pressure control, plausibility pressure too low after replacing the valve cover. What is a common cause of this? I have a 2011 bmw 535i.
The F10 is a chassis code of the 5 series for model years 2011-2017. The N55 is an engine produced between 2009-2018 and found in many different models including the F10
Great list and right on the money!! My 2013 F30 has 106k miles. At 105, valve cover leaked as advertised, replaced the whole cover and gasket since the PCV is integrated into the valve cover. While it was open, had them replace the plugs and coils. My charge pipe blew at 90k miles. Probably mentioned earlier, but the tank to radiator hose will be brittle at 100k. The 90 degree bend at the radiator will crack and blow hot coolant all over your engine. 5 minute fix. My broke at 102k Cheers!
I’m on 150,000 miles and I’m now going through most of the problems you have listed. The valve cover, I have the gaskets replaced and the cover is ok. I’ve heard that the diaphragm can be replaced without needing to replace the whole valve cover, is that true and can you recommend a part?
my 335i is at 75k just had remap stage 1 just about to upgrade intercooler and intake whilst im under the bonnet what do you recommend i replace/ upgrade
If I did that it’s going to exceed the 30 things on this due to new technology I think it would be 60 things that will fail on the B58 that’s why I haven’t done it terrible engine terrible reliability your better off to buy a Porsche just like I did could have bought many of them 5 times over but I invested into Porsches not a car that devalues because there shit boxes
@@BMWDoctor isnt porsche more expensive? But I though BMW inline 6 engine blocks are strong...? I was thinking of getting one as a toy for weekend or summer. Would u recommend E90's?
Of course porsche is expensive it’s meant to be but if you manage to get into that manafacturer it means you should have money for all the parts needed when it comes up. Personally I wouldn’t drive any of them due to the fact they ain’t a power car or a sports car they are just a luxury sedan with power but not built for racing or track from factory. It’s up to you dude personally I wouldn’t buy none of them as I have zero intrest in BMWs. But everyone to there own choose wisely and choose what you will be happy with most importantly choose something you can afford
I have a problem on my N55 435xi at cold start, RPM is going up and down fast, sometimes engine shut off. The problem is sporadic ( i suspected fuel pump, fuel which is 95+/100, coils even injectors ). Diagnostic is useless ( no errors ). After first 10 sec of coldstart it has no problems anymore. Do you know about this? Can you suggest what i should do?
Hi...Im looking to buy 640i from 2015...I found one with 85k on the clock..It has N55 engine..I know that N series engines are not best but this one seems to be not bad..What is your opinion about N 55 from 2015? Car is standart no chip tuning and it has service history...
Hi mate cam you do a video on fitting a towbar with both towbar anf auxiliary sockets to a bmw 320d saloon 2010 plate. It has a TEB7 relay amf needs a fuse wired into livr feed amd i think charging auxiliary battery. Hoping you can help. Many thanks Gordon
Great video, I am thinking of buyin M135i xDrive 2013 with 46k miles for about 22k €. What are you advices, what all parts should be replace within this range of miles. Thanks for ansewers. Drive safe.
Hi i have 2010 bmw x6 xdrive 3.0L 55K miles . i see this code 2ABD engine electronic boost pressure sensor overrun how i locate or what recomended to fix my problem.
Hola! soy mecanico y dueño de un bmw x3 f25 35i y esta muy bien explicado y es cierto lo que comentas, solo noto que en muchos casos no estan bien atendidos aunque sean servicios oficiales, por otra parte dentro de las actualizaciones que nombras, estoy en busca de corregir la tremenda aceleracion en frio sin dejar llenar primero el circuito de aceite, realmente tengo la precaucion de reemplazar el aceite sin dejar que se enfrie el motor para lograr arrancarlo al ralenti, tambien me gustaria modificar el limite de temperatura, ya que noto que es normal que trabaje a hasta 108 grados centigrados y me parece que tantas fallas en el circuito de refrigerante se deben a eso, los plasticos estan expuestos a mucho calor.. por otra parte el sistema star-stop me tomo siempre el trabajo de apagarlo, ya que me parece inapropiado apagar el motor con el turbo a tan alta temperatura sin dejarlo caer en su giro.. Lindo video! Saludos desde Argentina
Hi mate, I've just rebuilt a seized n55 but I'm having valvetronic problems and wondered if you could maybe shed some light on it. I'm getting fault code p135808 and get a clicking from the motor.
Hi, i have purchased a 2011 f10 535i with 110K miles (175k km) in the NL. And now i read all those horror stories about rod bearings and i am worried that my engine will grenade any minute now.. :'( do i have to worry? It has been all its life been serviced at the BMW dealer and its maintenance history is very good. I dont have any codes and no noises. Greetings!
ok , my 2013 535i’s engine went out because previous owner sucked at maintenance so rod bearings didnt get enough oil, so you should be good if maintenance on ur car was truly kept
Hi , 2012 BMW X5 35iDrive n55 engine. I was told by a mechanic that specializes in BMW that my DME needs to be replaced. I have been having issues with a P Code P0222, Throttle Body after I replaced my HPFP. The Car starts and I was driving it with with Reduced Power Malfunction Check Light . Took it to the Beamer Shop and they went into the dreaded BMW diagnosing Rabbit Hole. I was first told it was HPFP , then the Throttle Body, and lastly the DME. they pointed to the DME located on the Passenger Side. I remember the under the Intake Manifold there was a DME that I had to disconnect. Any guidance to the fix will definitely make me a subscriber I am a DIY guy.
The level of maintenance you need is reflective of how hard you drive your car. These are BMW's and young men drive these things like they were meant to be driven. It's not like they're designed to fail, but they are designed to maintain as a high performace vehicle.
If you have a E9X facelift an F series BMW with 35 badge 40i for the F version of the 7 series you have the N55 engine and the facelift X5 E70 have it too!!!
overall good video, thanks. One thing you can improve is to put list of parts you prefer changing on the car, for example spark plugs. COLDER spark plugs for example ;)
It's a definite advantage having an oil catch can on direct injection engine, I've had one for a while on my M135i and it definitely catches oil which would otherwise be going in to the intake and onto the back of the valves 👍
HELPP I GOT THESE CODES!!!! 2C58Charging pressure control: switch off Consequential reaction/2DAO/2DA2 intake Camshaft angle deviation With respect to Crankshaft outside tolerance!! Exhaust camshaft angle deviation with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance !!!!!!!!
Dean, great content but your audio volume between your intro track and you talking are too far apart. Consistency would be highly appreciated. Watching this at night with a baby sleeping 😭
Quick Summary
1) Oil cooler housing gasket
2) Oil filter housing cap
3) Tensioner, accessory belt and idler pulley kit
4) Charge pipe (better to upgrade to aftermarket)
5) Valve cover gasket
6) Ignition coils & spark plugs (if remapped, run colder sparked plugs to prevent problems)
7) Vacuum hose (locked on to vacuum pump)
8) Crankcase ventilation hose (good to replace if replacing valve cover gasket)
9) Vanos solenoid
10) Thermostat (& water pump, coolant leak is a big sign)
11) Rod bearing
12) Carbon buildup
Other than the rod bearing and vanos, seems like normal wear and tear stuff.
thats a lot.... when i compare it to my 08 CIVIC LX
@@cheezybread7783those 2 cars don’t compare
We
Can someone drop the codes for these repairs?
130k kilometers on my N55 and not a single part failed atm. very reliable till now, i think driving it warm and cold solves many issues with this engine.
do you have software on your car mate?
still running? I saw few N55s completely failed around 130-150k km. My 535i got brand new engine at 135k km at warranty
How did it fail? Only way i could imagine is the oil cooler leak?
The people saying X5's won't make it past 100,000 miles clearly have no clue what they are talking about.. I have 165,000+ miles on mine and she still hugs the road like a sports car and rides beautifully.
225k on my '13 X3 with the N55.
My F30 N55 is now at 149k miles and is pretty solid. None of these parts have failed, but I did change the valve cover when I had the chance. It's plastic, so it will need to be replaced periodically. Some common sense and good maintenance and these can last you decades.
Thank you for the list here. I replaced everything you listed here on my son's car except rod bearings (I probably should have since I had the oil sump out to replace the gasket), and more as preventative maintenance.
I replaced the engine mounts, charge pipes to all aluminum on boost side as well, the water pumps can now be bought with aluminum housings so should last longer, I replaced the entire valve cover. Also the oil level sensor went out and oil pressure control valve (near the vanos control valves) seems to be a bit dodgy occasionally giving me high pressure oils codes, but no check engine light). front main seal would be a good one to add to the list. I did not do it but it will fail. I also had to replace the injectors and code them. I think someone had replaced them before and did a very bad job replacing them because they were not even coded with the correct offsets.
Also the radiator hose inlet at the front of the engine is made of plastic and completely disintegrated when I pulled on the hose. I replaced it also with an aluminum one.
In good healthy condition, these engines really rip! I am definitely not afraid to work on these engines anymore!
Thank you for this video. As a new BMW owner, I found it very informative. I see that preemptively replacing some parts that are prone to failure will save you a lot of trouble and extend the engines life.
2012 X5 E70 N55 176k did the full list except the Vanos solenoids, and rod bearings, but did do the boost control solenoid, thank God, Dean, RUclips and good maintenance.
Im coming to 🇬🇧
I think it also depends on where you live. I live in Texas and its pretty hot down here in the RGV. I got my son a 2016 435i with 48k miles and it now has 92k. So far, I have replaced the thermostat, charge pipe (upgrade it), and valve cover gasket. I just got the oil change and saw the first sign of the rear main seal starting to leak. Other than that, the car still runs great!
Got my 640i LCI at 98k miles last year, now at 118k miles, only thing I've done is the small pcv vent hose £40 (old one cracked), and recently had drivetrain malfunction for the first time ever for the electronic wastegate actuator not closing fully (ive got ISTA) - will try recalibrating, failing that will replace the EWG. Thankfully EWG options are good, Honeywell make one for about £100, genuine BMW is £280ish.
Other items - front brakes and discs done, and oil change once. I am losing 1 litre every 4000-5000 miles which is totally acceptable, for an I6 BMW, lol.
Glad to read this I also got a 640i with 58k miles 4 months ago and I was a bit worried when I saw the video, I didn’t knew the Lci one were still EWG. I don’t know if doing the road bearing is worth it considering it can damage the engine or maybe it’s not worth it at this mileage, very happy with that car fun to drive despite its weight thanks to the adaptive drive and excellent car on motor drive as well.
Any issues with the charges pipe ? Some failed around 60k miles
I own a 2011 BMW 335i it has 180k And still going strong 💪!!!
Mid 2000 bmws they get better after every maintenance repair, especially if you use quality parts, but in many cases, aftermarket parts proved to be even better than bmw parts lol 😂
Hows it running now?
My n55 in almost 7 years of ownership had fuel injectors go other than that 0 issues. Very reliable engine
So far my high mileage n55 has been reliable, however I'm a huge proponent for preventative maintenance. If you do your own work and do maintenance early, you will have very few issues for a relatively low cost.
I wonder if the rod bearing failures could have to do with people not priming the oil pump after service involving oil pan gaskets, oil filter housing gaskets, anything involving oil coolers, ext. BMW didn't have that service bulletin to prime it in the early n55 days. It's cheap insurance that you won't starve your bearings of oil.
this is exactly what happen to my 2011 335i bought it 3 months ago and now I'm in a full engine rebuild cause the previous owner didn't prime the car after the ofhg wish I had realized the issue sooner
@@spacederp4120 ohh man, sorry to hear. I hope a rebuild isn't too pricey compared to buying a used engine. A lot of people these days go the used engine route vs a rebuild.
Gotta love how BMW simplified the n55 oil passages to increase vanos reliability but caused a different catastrophic problem even worse than the issue they were trying to prevent 😑
Do you have to prime it after doing a regular oil change & filter? I didn’t know about priming it when I did my first oil change on it.
I’m assuming you don’t, but I’ve heard some people say you should. Your thoughts?
@@spacederp4120 What do you mean by priming the ofh? Just fill it up with oil when replacing the ofhg?
@@ChristopherGuilday I'm not sure, I don't prime the oil pump after an oil change. I've read some do as well. I've done about 6 oil changes (5k mile OCI's) since I've had the car, no issues so far. I generally don't let the car sit for too long between it's last drive and first start after the oil change. Could have something to do with it. The main thing is to make sure that plastic bird cage looking piece stays in the OF cap and doesn't get thrown away by accident, sometimes it gets stuck in the old filter during removal.
I would prime it every time if I didn't have to unplug 6 brittle injectors every time. Haha
On my N55 after 8 years the first defect.... only when the engine is cold and after starting, the part shakes and shakes as if it were only running on three cylinders, tries to catch itself again and again, but basically almost sinks if you don't counter it with some throttle. However, as long as I keep the revs right at just over 1000 rpm for about a minute or a minute and a half, the engine then runs normally at idle and absolutely smooth. With your experience, this is surely a known problem and probably not a big deal, right? am grateful for any help🙏🙏
Get the engine warm with driving it around for 5 min. Turn car off and unplug the MAF sensor and leave it unplugged. Turn the car back on and let it run for 10 minutes idling. Turn car off. Plug the maf sensor back in. This resets the MAF and it should stop the rough idle after 2-3 cold starts
Thanks bro for doing this video! On your list, I've recently changed water pump, thermostat, expansion tank/cap plus to add to your list lower oil pan gasket. Pretty expensive but so is buying a new or CPO car right now. I have 107k miles and 2nd owner, have taken really good care but very expensive to maintain if you don't have your own shop.
You ain’t lying, bmw parts cost a fortune, and labor costs will bankrupt someone that cannot turn a wrench 🔧
How many miles now? I’m looking at one with 67k miles. M-sport for $21k. But I drive a ton, 20-25k miles a year (mostly highway) so I’m wondering if I should avoid simply due to how quickly it will acquire miles? I can perform a lot of maintenance myself. I really wanna get into a car I can actually build though and I love this platform for the money.
I have a 2013 X6 and I can confirm all of these...
That being said, I absolutely love this vehicle and you will have to pry it off of my cold dead foot when I'm gone.
Im loving my n55 335i 2014 and currently have a VRSF catless DP, vrsf chargepipe, and MHD stage 1 tune. Currently at 97,500 miles as well
I have a 2014 m235 with 80k. Has anything broke for you yet ?
2011 335i xdrive spun a bearing at 97k
@@tannervancour8807 eeesh I want a 335i but every owner has major issues. Scary
@@tannervancour8807 we’re you always beating on your car without letting it warm up and did you change your oil every 5k ?
The N55 that was in my 2013 X5 xDrive35i experience the following under my ownership.
-Oil filter housing gasket failed
-Coolant overflow tank failed
-VANOS solenoids failed
-Valve cover gasket failed
-Oil pan gasket failed
-Vacuum line tear causing boost leaks
what were the symptoms before you replaced your vanos solenoids?
Also which vaccum line did you replace
@@ArisFilms for the vanos. Hesitation on throttle, jerking, fluctating idle and i once stalled when leaving my drive. The engine shut off as i was pulling out. For the vacuum line i beleive it was the one for the boost pressure controller.
Fir the Vaccum lime tear what were the symptoms?
@@cac3994 loss of power when the boost kicked in c. 3500-4000rpm. The vacuum line fault would prevent the waste from opening.
Yeah those are all the usual suspects. That oil pan gasket replacement is no joke. I did it myself on jack stands in my garage for my wife's n52 and on my n55 within a 2 week span. It was terrible. But I saved loads of money and drank lots of beer.
Just bought a 2011 535i and can’t wait to get up to date on maintenance. I can’t do them all at once so are there any key specific ones to do right away. I’m trying to maintain it before the parts do go out
None of the common N55 failures are maint (oil/filter, plugs, belt) related, but seem age/heat/time related. SO just check for leaks and expect things to go wrong eventually (electric water pump is the main one that worries me, the others won't lead to engine failure).
my car has 150k miles, bought back in feb 2022, f30 n55. ive had to replace the valve cover gasket n charge pipe. but recently the thermostat went so im getting that done now. but thats what u get with a turbo 6 so
Thanks Doctor, I may now continue to do surgery on my N55 ! awesome video!
I’d love to see a video, 10 parts that will not fail on your BMW
The check engine light or any warning lights, they will always come on, but sometimes they even fail, to put it simply avoid BMW
The smile on your face will not fail
Oof, probably mostly internal mechanical components, that’s if what another issue doesn’t snowball into a problem.
Doesn’t exist for a reason
Those parts you shall not worry about
Are these in order of what should be replaced first? Just bought a 2014 535i with 90k mi, would love to know where to start
Also never heard of having to drive the car half a tank and up, a lot of trips to the gas station!
My 2013 x3 35i xdrive I bought with 50k miles on it, only put 10k since I bought it in 2019. Broke down, rod bearings went, total engine replacement at 69k miles. Always taken care of
HAVE A 2012 335I, RECENTLY CHANGED WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT AT 86000 MILES ALSO REPLACED CHARGE PIPE WITH AFTERMARKET ONE(VSRF) CAR WAS DRIVING GREAT. AFTER 10 MILES GOT REDUCED ENGINE POWER. WENT AWAY FOR FEW MILES CAME BACK. 387F POWER MANAGEMENT, CLOSED CIRCUIT CURRENT VIOLATION. 29D0 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR, ELECTRCAL SHORT CIRCUIT TO BATTERY POSITIVE. 29E0 CHARGE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR, ELECTRICAL SHORT CIRCUIT TO BATTTERY POSITIVE. 2D60 VANOS, EXHAUST CONTRO FAULT, CAMSHAFT STUCK. 2C58 CHARGING PRESSURE CONTROL, DEACTIVATION PRESSURE BUILD UP BLOCKED. CODES I GOT FROM REDUCED ENGINE POWER. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT
That sounds great 👍🏻 hope your enjoying the car. And get it sorted soon
Thank you for sharing, I wish I had found this video sooner as I am already halfway on this list of failures on my 2013 X1 35i M-sportpackage, at 80 thousand miles, I am really concerned about the Rod Bearing at this point though I have left the engine stock with no remapping, it has enough power for me though I think the engine is tired and does have serious Carbon Buildup. All in all I really love this N55 engine
Definitely learned more from this, i’ll have to get my BMW checked after this haha! Good vid man!
Just moved from a 320i to a G30 530d. Loving the power and sweet purr of the six-pot. Any tips I need to know about to maintain her in the best condition besides changing oil and filter every 10K miles? (I don't trust BMW's Loooong service intervals). I hear the B57 is pretty solid and reliable, I'll be keeping this one for as long as it lasts or they force me to buy an electric.
Change every 5,000 miles 3,000 miles if you really want to baby it
10K miles is too much for oil changes. 5k at most and use an oil that is BMW LL12FE+ approved or BMW LL04.
Service your transmission at 50k to 70k miles with a new pan & filter and ZF Lifeguard8 fluid.
Service your differential(s) and if you have xDrive also your transfer case.
Glow plugs and modules
Don’t DO 10k miles oil changes crazy. You trying to ruin your engine??? 3.5-5 k max MAX.That is the issue for the people maintaining the car. Get on the forums and learn. Everybody in these cars know not to push oil change past 5k! Got to keep fresh oil on the rods and ⚙️s. This one step will save your engine. Aslong as it was done from the begging of the n55s life the engine will last a while! Have over 264k miles on my n55 335i
210k miles on my n52 328i
200k on my n51 328i
120k on my n55 e90 335i
Hi, do you know if the valvetronic solenoid are a common issue on these? I’ve got a clicking noise when unlocking the car and believe this to be the issue?
It is
Are these repairs needed for N55s that are 2015 and younger? I am about to buy 2015 535i 87k miles
I bought a 2015 535 with similar miles almost a year and a half ago. For me, I did a lot of preventative maintenance. On my engine, it does not have that vacuum hose that the earlier version have. I did replace my valve cover and gasket. It wasn’t showing signs of leaking, but because I’m getting close to 100k miles, not there yet, 5k away, but I still felt it was the best thing to do. I also replaced my injectors as preventative maintenance. Couple issues I had were my engine and transmission mounts were shot and had to replaced immediately. That absolutely sucked replacing them. Like the valve cover, my oil filter housing gasket, water pump and thermostat were not showing signs of failure, but because of the mileage and the fact my car is tuned, I replaced the gaskets, pump and thermostat. The water pump replacement was messy, somewhat challenging, but definitely doable. When I first got the car, I replaced the plugs and coils right away after I replaced those mounts. One failure I recently experienced was the fuel rail pressure sensor. My car would crank, but would not start. It really stumped me because I thought it was the hpfp that had gone bad, but it wasn’t. However at the end of the day, it probably made sense for me to replace both so I can’t complain.
I’m currently debating buying an n55 335i but I’m worried about everything that can go wrong possible happening. How do you feel about buying one of these cars after 100k miles? In my area I can get on for around 15k Canadian with 100k miles (160x km) or for a bit more I can get my other option of a mk7 gti with 60k miles
I got a 2011 335i n55. It was in horrible shape and I needed to do a ton of work on it. I replaced all control arms, bushings and ball joints along with putting in bc racing coilovers. Then I had to replace some coolant lines and the radiator. New valve cover and gasket, new vanos solenoids camshaft position sensors and now I still have check engine lights. I'm currently ordering a throttle body, ignition coils and plugs. Oh also I am using a sensor bypass kit for the passenger seat occupancy sensor. I plan on taking the headlights apart and fixing the broken hardware and motors because one headlight points down.
Your mileage will vary but it's possible you will get a really poorly maintained car and you just have to be prepared for that
Post 2014 car and you'll be fine
I just got a 2015 with 80k miles and I’m not even 2 weeks in and it’s a nightmare already, and I’m coming from building subarus so that should say something 😂
you will fall in love with her. They are beautiful , nice , smooth riding vehicles.... but at 100K? get ready to drop $$$$ into them . Still love her to death but she's very expensive. Currently replacing water pump and thermostat
Love how we’re all in the same boat I’ve got a 2011 6 speed e90 m sport and now she’s squealing because the valve cover is going bad , done water pump , thermostat , plugs , coils hoses and gaskets and charge pipes and other repairs and after 2 years of owner ship from 103k miles and now 121k she has never left me stranded never , overheated , no smoke. Take care of them they’ll take care of you just remember like the other homie said be prepared for a car that was cared for poorly and now you’re in 100k mark meaning the second life of the car. Good luck
Maaan... All this sounds so reliable! No issues at all. Almost like a Lexus engine.
What spark plugs and what gap you are recommending for bm3 ots stage 2 map?
Thanks for the great video Dean! Personally I own a 2006 530xi and a 2012 x5 35i M package! Long live the n52 and n55
I'm in the same boat, 07 X3 N52 152k miles, and 13 335ix n55 193k miles. Both have been reliable and a joy!
10 Parts .... all parts that are removable and replaceable from your own drive way........ 10 parts!.... people Complaining 🤦♂️. 100s of other parts that are not accessible at all in your garage/driveway those 100 other parts never break! And never have to deal with... everything listed is simple and takes under a hour to do yourself! I love these cars. Very reliable if the car has been taken care of correctly and not necessarily on BMWs intervals.... change your own oil at 3.5-5k miles from the beginning and your car will last. Replace most preventative maintenance parts yourself and your car will continue to run for manymany years.
My n55 has 280k as we speak with stock bearings. All stock no maps.
My n54 has 170k. No issues
My n52 has 230k no issues.
My n51 has 190k no big issues (secondary air).
My 2016 built N55 has 100k miles now and the only 2 problems I had were the water pump and the thermostat. The VCG, oil filter housing gaskets and oil pan get regularly checked for oil leaks and they're all dry.
I keep my oil changes to 5k miles and only use Pennzoil LL-01 5w40 unless it's winter. Seems it helps preserves all the gaskets plus zero oil comsumption in over 60k mi !!
Congrats on your good run. I hope my n55 treats me just as well. How do you feel about the liquid molly oil?
@@up-allnight personally I don't see a significant benefit using Liqui Moly or others since my OCI is 5k mi or 6k mi maximum. Liqui Moly is not readily available on the shelf where I live but Motul is (Motul Specific BMW LL-01 FE 5W30, Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 LL-01 5W40 and Motul 8100 X-max LL-01 0W40) are all top choices for an N55); typically I alternate between Pennzoil Platinum Euro, Castrol Edge and Mobil 1.
I would like to add the oil pan gasket and the valvetronic servo motor :)
just do occasional old oil lab samples. that way you can do the rod bearings as prevention from any issues, bc it will happen eventually unfortunately it seems. ive even see n54's here and there.
turn of the auto start/stop, and install a proper pcv valve and a catch can if you get on the car a lot.. cuts carbon by ALOT!
Hi Great Video.. it astonishes me that BMW has lots of issues.(and continues to still have them) I have a 2013 x5 35i and i has been fiddling with vehicles all of my life, i purchased this vehicle last year,Why BMW has not "ironed" out these common issues with their vehicles is beyond me.... (at least especially their Gasket issues/belt,crankshaft cover/etc, like why not (bmw engineers) go to a company that can make a gasket without failing..I mean a Human can put a spaceship on the moon and cannot manufacture a reliable Rubber Gasket??.. i had a toyota highlander with 400 thousand and it never leaked at any time and less issues...BMW is suppose to be a "top of the line engineering...BMW Engineers need to get their act togather.ty great explanation sir 100-100
I hear you...
You have had to do a gasket, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, coolant hoses, PCV valve, vacuum hose replacement in 400k on your Highlander?
I just replaced the whole engine from 2017 bmw x6 into 2011 bmw 535 xi some changes on setup since it was from 2017 with a EWG setup it took a little time to get it done properly because mine is PWG setup ECU and now have ZERO hedache on everything worth to spend on the engine upgrade
What’s the hose on the left side of the engine that’s wrapped in the silver heat wrap? Also, what’s the sensor that’s below that hose? I think mines leaking. I keep getting oil on that silver tray looking thing on the left. However it doesn’t seem to be my valve cover gasket. One more thing. What’s the hose that’s tucked up above the engine below the windshield cowl?
From which year was this engine improved
13+
In July 2013 BMW upgraded the N55 with a slightly larger turbo and a electronic wastegate.
so how to prevent that from happening? what should i do/buy?
i’ve been watching you for a while now, i’m actually getting a 2013 335i this weekend, with 75k miles. do you think it’s a good choice and also any common issues that happened during the manufacture of the 2013 n55
Hey i am looking on buying one with around 65k miles also. How is it going with the car?
I got a 2013 335ix with a 6MT. I love it. I have about 120k more miles on it than you do on yours. haha It's been great. A big thing is to keep on top of maintenance, I do oil changes early, keep on top of oil leaks, and upgrade the charge pipe. Also if you have any service done requiring opening of the engine or oil cooler lines make sure the oil pump is primed! Indy mechanics may not know to do this. Its easy and is cheap insurance. Best of luck!
I’m getting code 120308 charging pressure control, plausibility pressure too low after replacing the valve cover. What is a common cause of this? I have a 2011 bmw 535i.
Is the F10 and N55 the same thing?
The F10 is a chassis code of the 5 series for model years 2011-2017. The N55 is an engine produced between 2009-2018 and found in many different models including the F10
do you hear about oil pump failure? Is it need to be replaced on some specific mileage? thks
Great list and right on the money!! My 2013 F30 has 106k miles. At 105, valve cover leaked as advertised, replaced the whole cover and gasket since the PCV is integrated into the valve cover. While it was open, had them replace the plugs and coils.
My charge pipe blew at 90k miles. Probably mentioned earlier, but the tank to radiator hose will be brittle at 100k. The 90 degree bend at the radiator will crack and blow hot coolant all over your engine. 5 minute fix. My broke at 102k Cheers!
When your charge pipe blows, are you able to keep driving home/mech easily enough? Or does that mean tow-truck time?
I have rough idle on cold start, also some stuttering at higher accelerating but no codes.. Any ideas?
Sounds like what others have said VANOS sounds like (solenoids or maybe oil camshaft seals). Hope you sorted it out already.
I’m on 150,000 miles and I’m now going through most of the problems you have listed. The valve cover, I have the gaskets replaced and the cover is ok. I’ve heard that the diaphragm can be replaced without needing to replace the whole valve cover, is that true and can you recommend a part?
It can be but I’ve only heard of it lasting a few months before the part fails,so it’s best to only use as a temporary fix
It’s pain to do that, better to replace valve cover
my 335i is at 75k just had remap stage 1 just about to upgrade intercooler and intake whilst im under the bonnet what do you recommend i replace/ upgrade
I thought #1 would be your bank account.
Dean without you people would be getting ripped off keep making brilliant videos you LEGEND 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
Thanks a lot I appreciate it 🙏
Had to watch the n55 content ! Good job 👏
Thank you very much.
My own car makes a tremor in the engine does not work Ola Lerenti what is the solution please answer
What’s the black tube with the white Paper around it
I have a 2012 535i xdrive. What do I need to do ? For these maintenance
could u make a video for the B58 engine parts that fail as well? thnx
If I did that it’s going to exceed the 30 things on this due to new technology I think it would be 60 things that will fail on the B58 that’s why I haven’t done it terrible engine terrible reliability your better off to buy a Porsche just like I did could have bought many of them 5 times over but I invested into Porsches not a car that devalues because there shit boxes
@@BMWDoctor isnt porsche more expensive? But I though BMW inline 6 engine blocks are strong...? I was thinking of getting one as a toy for weekend or summer. Would u recommend E90's?
Of course porsche is expensive it’s meant to be but if you manage to get into that manafacturer it means you should have money for all the parts needed when it comes up. Personally I wouldn’t drive any of them due to the fact they ain’t a power car or a sports car they are just a luxury sedan with power but not built for racing or track from factory. It’s up to you dude personally I wouldn’t buy none of them as I have zero intrest in BMWs. But everyone to there own choose wisely and choose what you will be happy with most importantly choose something you can afford
@@BMWDoctor ayt then so ill stick with Acura or Lexus :)
I have a problem on my N55 435xi at cold start, RPM is going up and down fast, sometimes engine shut off. The problem is sporadic ( i suspected fuel pump, fuel which is 95+/100, coils even injectors ). Diagnostic is useless ( no errors ). After first 10 sec of coldstart it has no problems anymore. Do you know about this? Can you suggest what i should do?
Thank you very useful information.
Incredible info ! 👌
Hi...Im looking to buy 640i from 2015...I found one with 85k on the clock..It has N55 engine..I know that N series engines are not best but this one seems to be not bad..What is your opinion about N 55 from 2015? Car is standart no chip tuning and it has service history...
Hi mate cam you do a video on fitting a towbar with both towbar anf auxiliary sockets to a bmw 320d saloon 2010 plate. It has a TEB7 relay amf needs a fuse wired into livr feed amd i think charging auxiliary battery. Hoping you can help. Many thanks Gordon
Hi, My car F10 N55 the fault code 135608, already replaced the original parts but the problem still the same.
My biggest question. Where do you check the clutch fluid on an n55? I have a 535i 2011.
If I change all these parts at 100k miles. How likely is it that these cars car run for another 80-100k?
very
Do the same for the S63 please
So i have 2015 n55 are all these fixed in the year 2015?
in 13min in the vidéo i can't see what the par'ts sorry im french and don't understand the name of parts to see online what is this thanks
Great video, I am thinking of buyin M135i xDrive 2013 with 46k miles for about 22k €. What are you advices, what all parts should be replace within this range of miles. Thanks for ansewers. Drive safe.
Hi i have 2010 bmw x6 xdrive 3.0L 55K miles . i see this code 2ABD engine electronic boost pressure sensor overrun how i locate or what recomended to fix my problem.
Hola! soy mecanico y dueño de un bmw x3 f25 35i y esta muy bien explicado y es cierto lo que comentas, solo noto que en muchos casos no estan bien atendidos aunque sean servicios oficiales, por otra parte dentro de las actualizaciones que nombras, estoy en busca de corregir la tremenda aceleracion en frio sin dejar llenar primero el circuito de aceite, realmente tengo la precaucion de reemplazar el aceite sin dejar que se enfrie el motor para lograr arrancarlo al ralenti, tambien me gustaria modificar el limite de temperatura, ya que noto que es normal que trabaje a hasta 108 grados centigrados y me parece que tantas fallas en el circuito de refrigerante se deben a eso, los plasticos estan expuestos a mucho calor.. por otra parte el sistema star-stop me tomo siempre el trabajo de apagarlo, ya que me parece inapropiado apagar el motor con el turbo a tan alta temperatura sin dejarlo caer en su giro.. Lindo video! Saludos desde Argentina
Hi mate, I've just rebuilt a seized n55 but I'm having valvetronic problems and wondered if you could maybe shed some light on it. I'm getting fault code p135808 and get a clicking from the motor.
Replace valvetronic servomotor and eccentric shaft needs to be inspected
Please show us how to prime the engine after oil filter housing service please?
i did diagnosis on my n55 and i got fault code 3401 oil pressure control valve activation line disconnection, what should i do
Hi, i have purchased a 2011 f10 535i with 110K miles (175k km) in the NL. And now i read all those horror stories about rod bearings and i am worried that my engine will grenade any minute now.. :'( do i have to worry? It has been all its life been serviced at the BMW dealer and its maintenance history is very good. I dont have any codes and no noises.
Greetings!
ok , my 2013 535i’s engine went out because previous owner sucked at maintenance so rod bearings didnt get enough oil, so you should be good if maintenance on ur car was truly kept
What motor is in the 3.0 2013 535 I? Is it the N55???
N55
Hi ,
2012 BMW X5 35iDrive n55 engine.
I was told by a mechanic that specializes in BMW that my DME needs to be replaced.
I have been having issues with a P Code P0222, Throttle Body after I replaced my HPFP. The Car starts and I was driving it with with Reduced Power Malfunction Check Light .
Took it to the Beamer Shop and they went into the dreaded BMW diagnosing Rabbit Hole.
I was first told it was HPFP , then the Throttle Body, and lastly the DME.
they pointed to the DME located on the Passenger Side. I remember the under the Intake Manifold there was a DME that I had to disconnect. Any guidance to the fix will definitely make me a subscriber I am a DIY guy.
Thanks for you
Can you helpe me
My car 535i f10 n55 engin link oil from brake vacuum on valve cover( boost solenoid )
The oil come from valve cover to boost solenoid
Can I change to a step colder spark plug even if I'm keeping it stock? Will that help or hurt or not matter? Thanks.
But why?? If you're stock, stay stock
most say the n55 does not have a forged crank. did i hear u say it does??? thatd be great!
The level of maintenance you need is reflective of how hard you drive your car. These are BMW's and young men drive these things like they were meant to be driven. It's not like they're designed to fail, but they are designed to maintain as a high performace vehicle.
Thank you for the great video,
Can you do N20 after 2012 that will fail? Thank you
N55 has a forged crankshaft?
Literally changed all of these. Valvetronic is one you've missed.
Yup, the valvetronic motor is the only thing that faild on mine... so far.
Mine went out at 145k
I sold my f30 335 x like he said. Problem. Problem . Problem . Problem. Mine was non stop over 10k in maintenance
If you have a E9X facelift an F series BMW with 35 badge 40i for the F version of the 7 series you have the N55 engine and the facelift X5 E70 have it too!!!
2010 e90 was facelift and came with n54
Very informative and well presented thankyou 👍
overall good video, thanks. One thing you can improve is to put list of parts you prefer changing on the car, for example spark plugs. COLDER spark plugs for example ;)
Great video ! What do you think about oil catch cans ? Is one needed for the N55 ? I bought one and I still haven't installed it yet.
It's a definite advantage having an oil catch can on direct injection engine, I've had one for a while on my M135i and it definitely catches oil which would otherwise be going in to the intake and onto the back of the valves 👍
@@richardtrow2751 which one did you get? I just got a 14 m235i
You will likely barely find anything in it. N54 it is supposed to be much more advantageous.
where is the high pressure fuel pump ?
HELPP I GOT THESE CODES!!!! 2C58Charging pressure control: switch off Consequential reaction/2DAO/2DA2 intake Camshaft angle deviation With respect to Crankshaft outside tolerance!! Exhaust camshaft angle deviation with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance !!!!!!!!
M235 2014 N55...100k miles and no issues
A video like this one for each engine would be awesome.
Boost pipe has bursted at 120k km. Although my m135ix was tuned to 400hp🥳
I replaced the original boost pipe eith an reinforced aluminium one
Good to know that BMW didn't design their plastics for above stock power.
Nice one ;)
You know that bro…. Gustas message me on Instagram bro can’t find your messages 😂
@@BMWDoctor sent it 😉
Auhh.. it's the same things on any BMW. LOL #1. oil leaks from anyplace there is oil. That's why I love BMWs. And things could be worse, like Audi.
Please diagnostic fault fast
Dean, great content but your audio volume between your intro track and you talking are too far apart. Consistency would be highly appreciated. Watching this at night with a baby sleeping 😭
thx!
Time to do mine then