Thanks for uploading, I'm an old Guy and needed a refresher on this problem. I am going to put a high-quality chrome 1/2" NPT to 5/8' hose nipple in it's place and run a 5/8" gates hose back to the heater core.
This procedure saved me after the Lisle 62200 extractor failed. I would never had done the hacksaw procedure until I saw you do it. Extractor spinning in hole left it large enough for hacksaw blade. Just passing on that I was able to address the debris that went down the hole by screwing a cheap thin walled 5/8" garden hose into the newly tapped heater hose connector hole with other end in a bucket. Applied low pressure (
I had this happen on my 99 ccsb. Used your video for a reference: nice presentation. After searching five stores for the 1/2 pipe tap needed I found a 6 piece set at harbor freight for $14.99...it did the job.
@@ryanferkel3479 it seems the standard tpi for 1/2 pipe is 14. Both 6 pc. Harbor freight kits are both 14 tpi. I'm picking up a set today to hopefully get mine fixed up! PIPE TAP & DIE SET, 6 PC. PITTSBURGH, ITEM #:91395
Thanks for posting this. Saved me a couple hundred bucks at least. I followed these steps precisely. To anyone that sees this keep two things in mind, be very careful not to cut the grooves too deep and when chipping off the pieces TAP it lightly w your hammer very little force is needed.
I’m giving big thanks to the original video and comments from the post. I had been putting off changing the crusty heater hose connector on a 1998 7.4l Vortec. Recently I had been smelling coolant inside the truck and noticed green coolant leaking from beneath the passenger side of the engine. I initially thought the leak was from the heater hoses going into the firewall or coolant overflow tank. I finally speculated the coolant was leaking from the heater hose connector, running down the side of manifold and dripping down the back of the block. The connector broke off as expected and with the help of a hacksaw blade, chisel, pipe tap and shop vac I was able to replace the connector and stop the leak.
Are you sure the heater core isn't leaking as well? I just find that strange that you could smell that inside the truck. The heater core is also on the passenger side right under the glove box.
@@my2cents930 I had thought that at first since I was getting the “sweat smell” of coolant inside and there was a drip underneath the passenger side of the truck. When I looked under the hood I didn’t see any leaks near the firewall looking from top to bottom. On the front passenger side on top of the engine it was wet and had goobers of oil and dirt caked under the heater hose connector. I haven’t had any leaks after replacing the connector or smelled coolant inside.
I got er done today! Very time consuming with the mini hacksaw & chisel. I took a chance and used a power die grinder in which I cut in four place and then chiseled out the broken peices. Then used shop vac with tiny adapter to suck out the peices that fell in manifold. Worked great!!! Pops had a tap for rethreading and new part went on with ease. Have to wait till tomorrow too test. Waiting for new oil cooler lines I had to special order! By far not a mechanic but I still got er done! Peace
Awesome help... this precisely happened to my 1993 v6 4.3 silverado same hose and same fitting... they even have it on the same location thanks for the video!
Great video on this repair! After 25 years I just noticed my 92 Z71 stepside was a little wet. I thought I would take a chance and see what's up with that connector and I was shocked at all the videos. After 225,000 miles, I'm expecting the worse!
BarboursAutoHelp thank you! You wouldn't happen to have the part number for that fitting? It seems everyone wants to sell them in a 5 pack online. So I have to hit the Pepboys or Napa for the single fitting.
great vid. thankfully mine didnt break like that, but the quick connect plastic was so corroded it was pissing coolant everywhere. my 99 tahoe is back on the road though
Good video. I had to do this same thing on a friend’s truck a while ago. I didn’t know exactly what to do but did the exact same thing you did with the hack saw blade. Get the old away from the threads. Don’t use an easy out as the material is so soft it makes matters worst by smashing the threads tighter.
I had exactly this problem in a parking lot, instead of cutting it I hammered a cold chisel into it and used a socket to unscrew it. Thankfully that also cleaned the threads.
This is one of the better videos about this heater connector quick disconnect problem. Although I have not had one break off, I have replaced four of these so perhaps I can clear up a few questions that have come up. 1. What is the torque specification for this fitting? This was mentioned in this and other videos but no one says what the torque specification is. I have the factory service manual for my Buick and it is not mentioned there either. Contacting Dorman, which is one after market manufacturers of this part, their answer was “It is pipe thread. Tighten until it doesn’t leak.” I tighten to about 12 to 20 ft lbs of torque but I also use Oatey #31229 Great White Pipe Joint Compound rated for fluids to 10,000 psi and 500 degrees F. over the threads then a few layers of Teflon tape over that. If if seems like overkill, its because on the 3.1L Buick Century motor, a considerable amount of disassembly is required to get at the fitting so you don't want to do this twice. Pipe compound and tape is the only method in home plumbing I found that never leaks. Just to put it in perspective, the pressure this fitting has to handle in a car is only about 15 psi. A garden hose has from 30-80 psi. 2. Can just the rear white plastic piece be replaced? I don't think I have ever seen that plastic piece sold separately but it does not create any seal. It is a retainer that stops the metal heater hose which has a raised ring around it from pulling out. The seal is inside the heater disconnect. It is an "O" held in place by ramped plastic piece. The white plastic retainer is placed over the metal ring on the heater pipe. The pipe is then pushed into the back of the heater connector. The front end of the metal heater pipe rides up the plastic ramp inside the connector into the "O" ring seal, then the white plastic retainer which has two raised plastic tabs lock the metal heater hose in place.
Soak with pb blaster, wait a few hours. Use a socket with extension not a wrench and keep it straight with no side pressure and ease it off slowly. Mine came right off no problem.
This happened to me today thanks for posting the video doesn't look like it's going to be too hard of a job tomorrow after work as long as the weather holds up aloha
Should there be any movement on this after it is inserted in the new clip? I am able to wiggle it considerably and am thinking that is where my very slow coolant leak is occurring, Why would that be a quick connect? seems like something more permanent would have been better design? Thanks for the video.
Very helpful video. I'm trying to find a replacement hose and can't find it anywhere. It's for my dads suburban, but his has a thread b nut on the hose side (the piece that's leaking) Any ideas as to where I can acquire this part? I have a pic, but can't post it here. Thank you.
Don't break it off ! Take a short flat blade screwdriver and poke inward and upward on both tabs while gently wiggling and pulling on the hose. It may take a couple minutes of poking and wiggling but it does come out and unlock like this. I just back flushed my 98 silverados heater core today and had to disconnect that fitting.
Oh I wasn't telling people to break it off. The only reason I did is because the fitting was leaking. Most of the time these fittings are leaking because they are cracked. You have to unscrew it to remove it. It is very rare that the don't break. As the case with the truck in the video. This is very common with this connector. Hens the reason it's on the help isle of most parts stores.
I'm replacing the quick-connect heater hose outlet on my 1998 Tahoe today. Thankfully the crap-mo-stank designed hose didn't break off in the intake manifold like that. I will usually use some type of lubrication product like PB Blaster to help free up seized auto parts. When things break off like that in the engine a simple job can quickly become a nightmare and end up costing a lot of money and time to make right. What torque spec is used on the heater hose quick-connect outlet? I just hand tightened it until I started to feel some resistance and then torqued it to 20 ft-lbs.
May help to place a small rag in hole while removing broken connector and cleaning threads so you can easily remove connector pieces. The remove rag. I am getting ready to do same job on my 92 Silverado 5.7L
Hah! He said "barnacles" at 4:30. I do believe those only grow in life-supporting salt water, i.e. the ocean, much less ethylene glycol based engine coolant. :)
+BarboursAutoHelp Now that you pointed that out, I listened to it again and yes it does sound like you are saying "particles" after all, which makes more sense. I swear it sounded like you were saying barnacles the first couple times I watched it though!
How about the actual heater hose replacement? My heater hose is leaking at the heater core and need to replace that hose. Can I cut the hose at the metal part and splice in? Thanks for posting. Good job.
Update 1990 GMC 5.7L: what I did, was get my dremmel and cut off that aluminum piece that was factory crimped on the coolant hose on the water pipe. I then took the coolant hose off and the local parts store had the replacement in stock ( part: GAT19666). I also purchased & installed the threaded heater connector with the plastic quick disconnect which was in stock also (part: DOR 800-401). then inserted the new coolant hose on the original metal pipe, tightened the clamps and snapped it in the intake manifold. Then cut to size the heater hose and topped off the radiator fluid. Thought it would be painful but really was an easy job. Thanks for your inspiration
Getting the right parts as half the battle if you call advance Auto and don't talk to someone that knows what they're doing he'll never get what you need you have to have the right Force I always replace the heater hose pipe assembly
great job very helpful mine has started seeping but has been replaced when I had a new engine put in. do you think they replacement ones will break off in the manifold as easy as the originals do if you have to replace them because i know the replacement one are some sort of steel! I do have the coupling extractor tool to remove it if it breaks off but hopefully i can get it out without breaking it! but murrphys law does apply when it come to the automotive world whatever can happen will happen! lol
BarboursAutoHelp i have seen that tool fail believe me depends on how well it bites into it and if it don't Crack and shatter it when you're driving it in all sorts of possibilities!
BarboursAutoHelp I got the fitting out with no problems I just put a regular fitting on with a heater hose and a clamp I hate gms quick connector design even those better replacement ones leak after about a couple of years at least from my experience with them iam also going redesign my oil cooler lines too they have the same type of fittings I've got some ideas in mind but I am going to think them through very carefully and make sure they are going to work before I do them! thanks for your advice!
Hey gotta ? If anyone wants to help i gotta 4.3 262 v6 vortec im trying to find the right part but everywhere says it wont fit what size/part do i get!?
Wouldn't the cooling system be more reliable and cheaper to repair if the quick connects were eliminated and it were converted to conventional heater hoses and worm drive clamps.
Instead of vacuum, just turn the engine cause that will flush that stuff out... Remember, that hose comes from intake to the heater core.. Yes, its the inlet hose for the core...
I've got to apologize to you. It isn't there. I think I responded to a question before with that info and got mixed up. It's there now. Its 1/2-14 NPT. Again, please excuse me.
To flush debris out remove upper rad.hose and remove thermostat. replace hose on thermostat housing end and then flush water back through. this will push debris back out the fitting hole.
Heat the nylon retainer with propane and pull on the hose as it melts. Clean the mess.Replace retainer and o-ring. That is for those of you who are only trying to remove the hose.
Good video but too many reminders to opt for a technician if skiddish. People are tuning in to watch you do it, THEN they decide if they're willing to attempt it.
@@ryanferkel3479 lol. I didn't say 1/2" tap, my friend. Its a1/2" pipe tread tap. A hardware store may be a better place to look. This is not a common tap in automotive repair.
Just get rid of that stupid thing and buy the right size metal nipple to replace it with and use regular heater hose clamped on. Plastic will only get heat embrittled again in time. FIx it once and for all.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for uploading, I'm an old Guy and needed a refresher on this problem. I am going to put a high-quality chrome 1/2" NPT to 5/8' hose nipple in it's place and run a 5/8" gates hose back to the heater core.
Did the exact same thing you described with no problems.
This procedure saved me after the Lisle 62200 extractor failed. I would never had done the hacksaw procedure until I saw you do it. Extractor spinning in hole left it large enough for hacksaw blade. Just passing on that I was able to address the debris that went down the hole by screwing a cheap thin walled 5/8" garden hose into the newly tapped heater hose connector hole with other end in a bucket. Applied low pressure (
Good job! Thanks for commenting.
I had this happen on my 99 ccsb. Used your video for a reference: nice presentation. After searching five stores for the 1/2 pipe tap needed I found a 6 piece set at harbor freight for $14.99...it did the job.
Thank you so much for sharing. I'm glad to help.
What size tap?
@@ryanferkel3479 it seems the standard tpi for 1/2 pipe is 14. Both 6 pc. Harbor freight kits are both 14 tpi. I'm picking up a set today to hopefully get mine fixed up!
PIPE TAP & DIE SET, 6 PC.
PITTSBURGH, ITEM #:91395
I figured it out. Took a bit of looking for it. Got it at our local true value hardware store
I almost read every comment on here and you're comment answered my question thank you
Thanks for posting this. Saved me a couple hundred bucks at least. I followed these steps precisely. To anyone that sees this keep two things in mind, be very careful not to cut the grooves too deep and when chipping off the pieces TAP it lightly w your hammer very little force is needed.
I’m giving big thanks to the original video and comments from the post. I had been putting off changing the crusty heater hose connector on a 1998 7.4l Vortec. Recently I had been smelling coolant inside the truck and noticed green coolant leaking from beneath the passenger side of the engine. I initially thought the leak was from the heater hoses going into the firewall or coolant overflow tank. I finally speculated the coolant was leaking from the heater hose connector, running down the side of manifold and dripping down the back of the block. The connector broke off as expected and with the help of a hacksaw blade, chisel, pipe tap and shop vac I was able to replace the connector and stop the leak.
This is GREAT news! Glad you got it done!
Are you sure the heater core isn't leaking as well? I just find that strange that you could smell that inside the truck. The heater core is also on the passenger side right under the glove box.
@@my2cents930 I had thought that at first since I was getting the “sweat smell” of coolant inside and there was a drip underneath the passenger side of the truck. When I looked under the hood I didn’t see any leaks near the firewall looking from top to bottom. On the front passenger side on top of the engine it was wet and had goobers of oil and dirt caked under the heater hose connector. I haven’t had any leaks after replacing the connector or smelled coolant inside.
I got er done today! Very time consuming with the mini hacksaw & chisel. I took a chance and used a power die grinder in which I cut in four place and then chiseled out the broken peices. Then used shop vac with tiny adapter to suck out the peices that fell in manifold. Worked great!!! Pops had a tap for rethreading and new part went on with ease. Have to wait till tomorrow too test. Waiting for new oil cooler lines I had to special order!
By far not a mechanic but I still got er done!
Peace
Good job!
Awesome help... this precisely happened to my 1993 v6 4.3 silverado same hose and same fitting... they even have it on the same location thanks for the video!
Great video on this repair! After 25 years I just noticed my 92 Z71 stepside was a little wet. I thought I would take a chance and see what's up with that connector and I was shocked at all the videos. After 225,000 miles, I'm expecting the worse!
It will probably break. I hope it doesn’t, but it’s gonna break. Be prepared and let me know if you have questions. Good luck to you!
BarboursAutoHelp thank you! You wouldn't happen to have the part number for that fitting? It seems everyone wants to sell them in a 5 pack online. So I have to hit the Pepboys or Napa for the single fitting.
Sorry I don’t.
great vid. thankfully mine didnt break like that, but the quick connect plastic was so corroded it was pissing coolant everywhere. my 99 tahoe is back on the road though
Good video. I had to do this same thing on a friend’s truck a while ago. I didn’t know exactly what to do but did the exact same thing you did with the hack saw blade. Get the old away from the threads. Don’t use an easy out as the material is so soft it makes matters worst by smashing the threads tighter.
I had exactly this problem in a parking lot, instead of cutting it I hammered a cold chisel into it and used a socket to unscrew it. Thankfully that also cleaned the threads.
This is one of the better videos about this heater connector quick disconnect problem. Although I have not had one break off, I have replaced four of these so perhaps I can clear up a few questions that have come up.
1. What is the torque specification for this fitting? This was mentioned in this and other videos but no one says what the torque specification is. I have the factory service manual for my Buick and it is not mentioned there either. Contacting Dorman, which is one after market manufacturers of this part, their answer was “It is pipe thread. Tighten until it doesn’t leak.” I tighten to about 12 to 20 ft lbs of torque but I also use Oatey #31229 Great White Pipe Joint Compound rated for fluids to 10,000 psi and 500 degrees F. over the threads then a few layers of Teflon tape over that. If if seems like overkill, its because on the 3.1L Buick Century motor, a considerable amount of disassembly is required to get at the fitting so you don't want to do this twice. Pipe compound and tape is the only method in home plumbing I found that never leaks. Just to put it in perspective, the pressure this fitting has to handle in a car is only about 15 psi. A garden hose has from 30-80 psi.
2. Can just the rear white plastic piece be replaced? I don't think I have ever seen that plastic piece sold separately but it does not create any seal. It is a retainer that stops the metal heater hose which has a raised ring around it from pulling out. The seal is inside the heater disconnect. It is an "O" held in place by ramped plastic piece. The white plastic retainer is placed over the metal ring on the heater pipe. The pipe is then pushed into the back of the heater connector. The front end of the metal heater pipe rides up the plastic ramp inside the connector into the "O" ring seal, then the white plastic retainer which has two raised plastic tabs lock the metal heater hose in place.
It's very kind of you to take time and share this information! Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. I just completed this repair tonight on my 98 c1500. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Oh man! That's awesome! Thanks for commenting 🙂
Thank you very much for this. Was looking for a good video for what was involved, and this explained everything perfectly.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you!!
I just did the exactly how you described and it worked perfectly
Be carefull of the threads it was under 2 hours start to finish
Glad it helped!
My Man! Thanks fella...worked for us.
Soak with pb blaster, wait a few hours. Use a socket with extension not a wrench and keep it straight with no side pressure and ease it off slowly. Mine came right off no problem.
Wow thanks, I was wondering how to disconnect it and the rest of the video scared me so much, the wrench was my next move!!!! 😳
Thank you I think I can do this myself thanks to your video
Awesome video you are a good teacher.
Attempting this job tomorrow. Great training video👍
Good luck!
A little constructive criticism. When using the tap, you should always thread it in a bit, then back it out a bit. That way it can release the debris.
I like your picture bro
@@edmondbhenderson6569 Thanks, man
This happened to me today thanks for posting the video doesn't look like it's going to be too hard of a job tomorrow after work as long as the weather holds up aloha
Good deal.
Should there be any movement on this after it is inserted in the new clip? I am able to wiggle it considerably and am thinking that is where my very slow coolant leak is occurring, Why would that be a quick connect? seems like something more permanent would have been better design? Thanks for the video.
This was an awesome video you definitely saved me money and time. Thanks
No problem
Great hands on demonstration. Thanks for posting this on RUclips
Sure thing
you did a greet job brother thanks for showing you nolege
Very helpful video. I'm trying to find a replacement hose and can't find it anywhere. It's for my dads suburban, but his has a thread b nut on the hose side (the piece that's leaking) Any ideas as to where I can acquire this part? I have a pic, but can't post it here. Thank you.
Dorman 800-401 is that heater hose adapter part number at the chain stores. 1995 5.7L Vin K engine.
Very helpful ! Thanks for posting.
No problem!
Easy out bits are life savers just spend the money and get a set
Have you tried one on for this issue? In a lot of cases it doesn't work as the metal is so brittle.
Don't break it off ! Take a short flat blade screwdriver and poke inward and upward on both tabs while gently wiggling and pulling on the hose. It may take a couple minutes of poking and wiggling but it does come out and unlock like this. I just back flushed my 98 silverados heater core today and had to disconnect that fitting.
Oh I wasn't telling people to break it off. The only reason I did is because the fitting was leaking. Most of the time these fittings are leaking because they are cracked. You have to unscrew it to remove it. It is very rare that the don't break. As the case with the truck in the video. This is very common with this connector. Hens the reason it's on the help isle of most parts stores.
use this extractor LISLE #62200 GM HEATER HOSE COUPLING REMOVER
i’ve had a very minor amount of coolant puddling on top of my engine for some time and now i know why
You’re lucky man I was driving down the road and almost all of my coolant came out of this spot
I'm replacing the quick-connect heater hose outlet on my 1998 Tahoe today. Thankfully the crap-mo-stank designed hose didn't break off in the intake manifold like that. I will usually use some type of lubrication product like PB Blaster to help free up seized auto parts. When things break off like that in the engine a simple job can quickly become a nightmare and end up costing a lot of money and time to make right. What torque spec is used on the heater hose quick-connect outlet? I just hand tightened it until I started to feel some resistance and then torqued it to 20 ft-lbs.
Lol. Crap-mo-stank! Lol. I used German torque.
i dont think my heart dropped when it broke off... I think the neighbors a mile down the road heard me swearing lol
May help to place a small rag in hole while removing broken connector and cleaning threads so you can easily remove connector pieces. The remove rag. I am getting ready to do same job on my 92 Silverado 5.7L
Thanks for sharing. Let use know how that technique does for you.
good job my brother
Great Video Brother thanks for the help life save God Bless Marry Christmas 2021
Use a large racket & gently tug after some kind lubricant is sprayed around the base.
I had success.
I used a 1 1/16 socket.
About 25-26 mm.
Where does the other two in let and outlet on the water pump go. Also I think u could put a rag down in the hole.
Hah! He said "barnacles" at 4:30. I do believe those only grow in life-supporting salt water, i.e. the ocean, much less ethylene glycol based engine coolant. :)
You have to use your imagination!
I actually said "particles", but I like "barnacles"! LOL
+BarboursAutoHelp Now that you pointed that out, I listened to it again and yes it does sound like you are saying "particles" after all, which makes more sense. I swear it sounded like you were saying barnacles the first couple times I watched it though!
What is the sensor on that side of the block right down the heat outlet
Can you plug heater hose outlet at the water pump
amazing video huge help thank you
Yep
Do you by chance have the gm part number for the back fitting on that JT I need to do mine but I want to have a factory fitting on hand
A GM dealership would be the best place to obtain that information from.
Where you fever that tap bit
I go all over the places and can’t find it any where
Should be available. It’s a very common tap.
How about the actual heater hose replacement? My heater hose is leaking at the heater core and need to replace that hose. Can I cut the hose at the metal part and splice in? Thanks for posting. Good job.
I’d just get the hose with the quick disconnect on it. It fits better.
Get the one like the old one.
Update 1990 GMC 5.7L: what I did, was get my dremmel and cut off that aluminum piece that was factory crimped on the coolant hose on the water pipe. I then took the coolant hose off and the local parts store had the replacement in stock ( part: GAT19666). I also purchased & installed the threaded heater connector with the plastic quick disconnect which was in stock also (part: DOR 800-401). then inserted the new coolant hose on the original metal pipe, tightened the clamps and snapped it in the intake manifold. Then cut to size the heater hose and topped off the radiator fluid. Thought it would be painful but really was an easy job. Thanks for your inspiration
Very creative! Thanks for the information. Have a good one!
What size is the half inch pipe thread tap what size socket will fit
Shoot, it’s been a while. I think 3/4 for my tool.
Did you try an EZ out ?
Would an easy out work before cutting broke piece out or just go ahead and cot it out
You can try. I've never had luck.
I did and it didn't work out for me @BarboursAutoHelp
Getting the right parts as half the battle if you call advance Auto and don't talk to someone that knows what they're doing he'll never get what you need you have to have the right Force I always replace the heater hose pipe assembly
There's a tool used for removing water iragation pipe fittings that looks like a big easy out that would work great for this job
.....in some cases. Ben there, done that. Doesn't work in most cases as a mater of fact. (In my experience. I've done a bunch. )
What size tap are you using please let me know
1/2 pipe tread
great job very helpful mine has started seeping but has been replaced when I had a new engine put in. do you think they replacement ones will break off in the manifold as easy as the originals do if you have to replace them because i know the replacement one are some sort of steel! I do have the coupling extractor tool to remove it if it breaks off but hopefully i can get it out without breaking it! but murrphys law does apply when it come to the automotive world whatever can happen will happen! lol
+Greg Robinson If they are not the originals then they probably will not break. I'm pretty confident but don't get upset if it does.
+Greg Robinson By the way, I've not had very good luck with the tool.
BarboursAutoHelp i have seen that tool fail believe me depends on how well it bites into it and if it don't Crack and shatter it when you're driving it in all sorts of possibilities!
BarboursAutoHelp I got the fitting out with no problems I just put a regular fitting on with a heater hose and a clamp I hate gms quick connector design even those better replacement ones leak after about a couple of years at least from my experience with them iam also going redesign my oil cooler lines too they have the same type of fittings I've got some ideas in mind but I am going to think them through very carefully and make sure they are going to work before I do them! thanks for your advice!
+Greg Robinson sure thing.
Helpfully mine has a slow leak under heavy hauling when she gets warmer then normal
Just tur. The engine on. It'll pump out all of the debri but your gonna have to top it off afterwards. No need for a vacuum.
Any reason why you can't use a large screw extractor?
Usually doesn't work.
What’s the name of the part it just happened to my 2000 silverado
Can you just replace retainer clip and oring ?
Possibly. I'd pressure test it after to make sure it doesn't leak.
Whats the torque specifications?
What’s the part called the silver one mine has a hole and is leaking.
Little more description as to what part you are referring to please.
Is there a reason you used a hacksaw blade/chisel rather than an "easy out" type extractor?
Yes, it crumbles apart. Nothing substantial to grab with the easy out.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Thank you for your response and the good video.
Hey gotta ? If anyone wants to help i gotta 4.3 262 v6 vortec im trying to find the right part but everywhere says it wont fit what size/part do i get!?
Does the connector always break off ? , mine is like 8 years old , and need replacement already
Its typical
That's exactly how I do it I've been doing it for a long time and that's exactly the way I do it p
The radiator hose popped off when engine switch off but no heat was detected by sensors it is a prado 150 2010 why is that
Is That The Heater Hose Connector
Yes, on the vehicle shown in the video.
Wouldn't the cooling system be more reliable and cheaper to repair if the quick connects were eliminated and it were converted to conventional heater hoses and worm drive clamps.
Perhaps
Instead of vacuum, just turn the engine cause that will flush that stuff out... Remember, that hose comes from intake to the heater core.. Yes, its the inlet hose for the core...
What size of threader did u use and where did u get it at ?
Look in the description of the video. I believe its there.
Barbour's Auto Help I don’t see it in the description
Directly beneath the video
I've got to apologize to you. It isn't there. I think I responded to a question before with that info and got mixed up. It's there now. Its 1/2-14 NPT. Again, please excuse me.
Barbour's Auto Help it’s all good I re-watched the video and heard you say the size , thanks for the video helped me out
Isnt their a way to bypass this??
Let the mechanic worry about it is asking for a problem you won't see until it's too late. Good luck.
What size tap is that
1/2” pipe tread
Instead of extra teflon tape use some 5 in 1 pipe thread sealer,
If mine breaks when I do the job I think I'll just run the engine after I put the new hose on and let the debris run out into a bucket
I think my rusty coolant rusted out the threads
To flush debris out remove upper rad.hose and remove thermostat. replace hose on thermostat housing end and then flush water back through. this will push debris back out the fitting hole.
Heat the nylon retainer with propane and pull on the hose as it melts. Clean the mess.Replace retainer and o-ring. That is for those of you who are only trying to remove the hose.
Crap . You must work for GM . The best way is to delete the slip fitting with a good hose fitting .
Dang, I wish I saw this video 2 hours ago.
Me too!
Good video but too many reminders to opt for a technician if skiddish. People are tuning in to watch you do it, THEN they decide if they're willing to attempt it.
What size tap? I used a ½"-14 and my new connector wont fit. I read on a forum that it was ½"-13 is that accurate?
1/2" pipe thread
@@BarboursAutoHelp is that a different tap than autozone would carry?
@@ryanferkel3479 I'm not sure if they carry it or not. But It's a 1/2" pipe thread.
Thanks. I have a 1/2" tap. I think they sold me a 5/8 connector instead of a 1/2
@@ryanferkel3479 lol. I didn't say 1/2" tap, my friend. Its a1/2" pipe tread tap. A hardware store may be a better place to look. This is not a common tap in automotive repair.
Why wouldn't you just replace the plastic piece?
The plastic piece doesn't seal anything. It just retains the line. I had a leak.
Part number
Just get rid of that stupid thing and buy the right size metal nipple to replace it with and use regular heater hose clamped on. Plastic will only get heat embrittled again in time. FIx it once and for all.
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Not a 1/2 tap. Way bigger
1/2" pipe thread my friend