It's really no big deal to repair with the right tools as I've shown, I've done a half dozen or so trucks with this both gas and diesel. But yeah I do include in the video description info on the diesel hose barb fitting GM made available if you want to go that route.
I just heated my quick connect adapter with a small butane torch so the red loctite loosened and managed to get it loose without too much much force to get it out to be replaced with a brass barbed hose connector.
Yep, I've done a few of those too myself. The upside on the gas engines is GM at least put out a solid steel replacement part to supersede the unreliable material one. Unfortunately for the diesel they never bothered to do that, and the gas and diesel have different orifice passage sizes inside so are not interchangeable.
@@DrShock Yes. .I have a 6.5 turbo Chevy Tahoe in New Zealand. It was converted to RHD in Canada & shipped new to NZ in 1997 Done a 190Kms & worth about NZD$25k.. Very cheep. fun fact:- only 3000 Tahoe Diesels were ever made and most were sold in other countries, other than the US It was available from 95-99 and the diesel Tahoe was a special order through GM. It’s one of the rarest modern vehicles you can get diesel fuel is NZD$1.20 per lt. + road tax of 6c per km. !!! & road tax for a 50 ton truck & trailer is 60c per km. Old gas Blazer are going for twice the price of diesels,.!!!. Gas in NZ is $1.80c per litre.
Only on eBay as they are long discontinued, here's an affiliate link for there ebay.us/mcJm8f there are no dual thermostat housings listed atm but there are some singles. You have to set up an alert to let you know when there's a new listing added on this search. They come up from time to time.
A friend of mine has a P/U with the 6.5. He keeps losing coolant but cant find the loss. No white smoke out of the pipe. Is there coolant loss associated with the quick connect?
These engines, after over a quarter of a century, can have multiple coolant leaks. Problem areas include the part in this video, as well as the coolant block off plates at the rear of each cylinder head, the thermostat crossover pipe at both cylinder head attachment points, the heater core behind the dash, and the heater core hoses. Some of these can be very small leaks that do not show up on the driveway. The heater core leakage will end up under the carpet. These engines are also, unfortunately, prone to developing cracks if cast prior to 1998, which may not show up in the exhaust color but may be detected with a test fluid type tool from the coolant reservoir.
This was a crossover I pulled from an LKQ salvage yard vehicle for someone else and just decided to record repairing the coupler area. I wouldn't normally cut the coolant line when doing the repair in the vehicle. It's easy enough to just do the quick disconnect, though the coupler may break off while trying to disconnect the host depending on the degree of metal degradation that has set in. In my experience the hoses are pretty solid, with only the quick connect coupler and the plastic tees (if you have rear heat) going. If you choose to not reinstall the quick connect and use the hose barb instead (part number in the description) then yeah you would need to modify the original line to remove the quick connect aluminum end.
The GM24503682 contains only one orifice whereas the DORMAN 800-401 Heater hose connector has a smaller orifice insert and is hence universal, you can easily remove the smaller orifice insert when needed. Both the GM and the DORMAN are now made from steel not pot metal. I suggest you use the DORMAN connector to adjust orifice size to requirements DIESEL and GASOLINE engines.
The GM diesel part was serviced as pot metal for longer than the gasoline engines, and GM used separate part numbers for each engine type due to the orifice size differences. Both the gasoline and diesel coupler versions got a new GM part number when it revised to be made of steel (in the video description). Personally, I'd never install anything made from Dorman. Ever. ;-)
umm ummm just what I need .. A big GM turd that you have to brake so you can fix it. Just buy a car made anywhere but the us and you will not run into this shit.
Replace that quick disconnect junk with a hose barb , new rubber heater hose & hose clamps. Never have a problem ever again.
It's really no big deal to repair with the right tools as I've shown, I've done a half dozen or so trucks with this both gas and diesel. But yeah I do include in the video description info on the diesel hose barb fitting GM made available if you want to go that route.
Unfortunately the lisle 62450 tool to make this repair possible doesn’t exist anymore.
I just heated my quick connect adapter with a small butane torch so the red loctite loosened and managed to get it loose without too much much force to get it out to be replaced with a brass barbed hose connector.
Yep, had the same problem on a '95 k2500 pick up trick with the 5.7 v-8.
Yep, I've done a few of those too myself. The upside on the gas engines is GM at least put out a solid steel replacement part to supersede the unreliable material one. Unfortunately for the diesel they never bothered to do that, and the gas and diesel have different orifice passage sizes inside so are not interchangeable.
@@DrShock Yes. .I have a 6.5 turbo Chevy Tahoe in New Zealand.
It was converted to RHD in Canada & shipped new to NZ in 1997
Done a 190Kms & worth about NZD$25k.. Very cheep.
fun fact:- only 3000 Tahoe Diesels were ever made and most were sold in other countries, other than the US It was available from 95-99 and the diesel Tahoe was a special order through GM. It’s one of the rarest modern vehicles you can get
diesel fuel is NZD$1.20 per lt.
+ road tax of 6c per km. !!!
& road tax for a 50 ton truck & trailer is 60c per km.
Old gas Blazer are going for twice the price of diesels,.!!!.
Gas in NZ is $1.80c per litre.
Great video. Have you got any ideas to where I can buy a complete crossover tube . I can't find one anywhere
Only on eBay as they are long discontinued, here's an affiliate link for there ebay.us/mcJm8f there are no dual thermostat housings listed atm but there are some singles. You have to set up an alert to let you know when there's a new listing added on this search. They come up from time to time.
A friend of mine has a P/U with the 6.5. He keeps losing coolant but cant find the loss. No white smoke out of the pipe. Is there coolant loss associated with the quick connect?
These engines, after over a quarter of a century, can have multiple coolant leaks. Problem areas include the part in this video, as well as the coolant block off plates at the rear of each cylinder head, the thermostat crossover pipe at both cylinder head attachment points, the heater core behind the dash, and the heater core hoses. Some of these can be very small leaks that do not show up on the driveway. The heater core leakage will end up under the carpet. These engines are also, unfortunately, prone to developing cracks if cast prior to 1998, which may not show up in the exhaust color but may be detected with a test fluid type tool from the coolant reservoir.
Did you replace the Crossover to heater core hose after you cut it in half to remove the fitting.
This was a crossover I pulled from an LKQ salvage yard vehicle for someone else and just decided to record repairing the coupler area. I wouldn't normally cut the coolant line when doing the repair in the vehicle. It's easy enough to just do the quick disconnect, though the coupler may break off while trying to disconnect the host depending on the degree of metal degradation that has set in. In my experience the hoses are pretty solid, with only the quick connect coupler and the plastic tees (if you have rear heat) going. If you choose to not reinstall the quick connect and use the hose barb instead (part number in the description) then yeah you would need to modify the original line to remove the quick connect aluminum end.
Where can I find that tap set?
Link should be in the videos description area
Lisle has discontinued this product.
What size tap was used?
It wasn't specified, but is included with the Lisle toolset I showed, and linked in the description.
@@DrShock should be 3/4 NPT as the barb fittings referred too are that same pitch.
The GM24503682 contains only one orifice whereas the DORMAN 800-401 Heater hose connector has a smaller orifice insert and is hence universal, you can easily remove the smaller orifice insert when needed. Both the GM and the DORMAN are now made from steel not pot metal. I suggest you use the DORMAN connector to adjust orifice size to requirements DIESEL and GASOLINE engines.
The GM diesel part was serviced as pot metal for longer than the gasoline engines, and GM used separate part numbers for each engine type due to the orifice size differences. Both the gasoline and diesel coupler versions got a new GM part number when it revised to be made of steel (in the video description). Personally, I'd never install anything made from Dorman. Ever. ;-)
umm ummm just what I need .. A big GM turd that you have to brake so you can fix it. Just buy a car made anywhere but the us and you will not run into this shit.