Nice video man! Just bought 9-3 for 200$ as my first car here in Sweden. The only problem is a small amount of rust on the doors and a faulty handbrake, which means the calipers needs a change. I’m not 100% sure about fixing brakes, since I haven’t done it hefore, so this video should definitely help!
Nicely done, going to replace my pads and rotors with some high performance drilled and slotted ones with matched pads. Calipers are in great shape due to the fact that I am down here in Florida where we don't have the road salt like the cars up North. Thanks for your time and effort in sharing this with us!
Really nice tutorial! Two question though. I'm planning to change the rear brake pads of my '99 saab 9-3 convertible myself. But only the pads, not the calipers or disks. If I do this like you show in the end of your video (so without disconnecting the fluid line), then: 1) How do I get the piston back so I can fit the bigger pads inbetween? 2) Is it correct that I only need a 18mm socket to do this job? No 7mm allen wrench like on the front? Thanks so much!
Changing just the pads is easy. No wrench needed. Just tap the 2 pins out with a hammer and punch. To push the pistons back I just use a large screwdriver and push them back. Do one piston and pad at a time, because they are dual piston calipers, and when you press one piston in, the other one tends to move back out if there is no pad in the slot. Clean the slots where the pads go with a small file if they are rusty. Replace the rattle clip with new if in bad shape. I like to put a little high temp grease on the edges of the pad backing where it rides in the slot....helps to keep from seizing and reduces chance of pad rattle noise. Also, if one of the pistons won't push back and is seized, you'll need a new caliper. Not unusual on these when they get old.
@@saabtech3510 Thanks again! Love the tips. Will do one at the time and open the brake fluid reservoir first. Lets hope the piston will push back because I don't see myself able to replace the caliper. If not, I'll replace the old pads and bring the car to a garage. But if I can do it myself it gives more satisfaction ;)
Saab Tech, thank you for making this video. I am doing the exact same project. Can you tell me what size wrench I need to remove the brake line nut? A 10MM seems too small and an 11MM is too big. I think I rounded the nut a bit.
@@saabtech3510 I just ordered an 11mm flare nut wrench. If that doesn't work, I"ll try a Irvins V jaw vise grip, as someone recommended on another forum.
I see you only put one pad in the caliper on that. but when I took mine apart there were two on either side of the rotor and one of the pads I'm trying to fit in aren't going in and the other is rubbing the rotor. did I do something wrong?
You have to make sure the pistons are both pushed all the way back in the bore. Do one side at a time, as pushing one in will often move the other one out. Use a large screwdriver to lever the piston in. Should go all the way to flush with the caliper. If it won't move in, it is seized. Very common on these when they get old. In that case, you will need a new caliper.
I've recently fell in love with Saab after driving my friend's 9000 from 1986 and now I have bought myself an old 9-3, but when replacing the pads on the rear the outer pistons won't push in, how much force we put on it. The inner pistons were easy as pie, this is the case on both sides, any ideas/tips?
If those pistons won't move, you will have to replace the calipers. I found reasonably priced ones of good quality on ebay. (Spend some time searching to find the best combination of price and quality.)
@@saabtech3510 thanks for your answer! Any chance you can link me those? And there isn't like a trick that I have to turn and press like some rear brakes? They are just seized up?
@@PausLeo What's available keeps changing....best to just put in a search and choose what looks good to you. If your 9-3 is a 1999-2002 or a 2003 convertible, the pistons just push in. If you have a 2003-2011 9-3, the pistons turn in with a special tool.
The parking brake shoes are, but the cables need to be adjusted with the nut on the rod over the center muffler heat shield. I explain in my parking brake cable video. You should adjust the parking brake shoes when putting on new rotors. I like to get it close before I put the rotor/drum on. There is also a small hole in the rotor/hub face that you can line up with the adjuster and adjust it through the hole, but it's tricky if you are not experienced at doing it.
@@saabtech3510 Yes and as an owner of à 1999 93 vertible I do prefer the spolier on 2001. Mines rusting oit underneath. Sad. E brakes frozen on rear driver side, goes forward but nor back. Likely the câble câble à mess.
Never would've figured out the brake pads if I didn't watch this first, lol. Thanks for the detailed video!
Nice video man! Just bought 9-3 for 200$ as my first car here in Sweden. The only problem is a small amount of rust on the doors and a faulty handbrake, which means the calipers needs a change. I’m not 100% sure about fixing brakes, since I haven’t done it hefore, so this video should definitely help!
Thank you for this! I need to get my rear brakes done before the snow comes
thanks for taking the time my E brake is frozen I haven't had it apart yet but looks pretty straight forward
Nicely done, going to replace my pads and rotors with some high performance drilled and slotted ones with matched pads. Calipers are in great shape due to the fact that I am down here in Florida where we don't have the road salt like the cars up North. Thanks for your time and effort in sharing this with us!
You're welcome. Yeah, the road salt just destroys cars up hear. Keep that Saab going!
We will! I cannot see the day we'll ever part with this car, I even have it on video.
ruclips.net/video/l7N4Nt9EwyY/видео.html
Where can I find Calipers for my 99 93 Viggen?
Really nice tutorial! Two question though. I'm planning to change the rear brake pads of my '99 saab 9-3 convertible myself. But only the pads, not the calipers or disks. If I do this like you show in the end of your video (so without disconnecting the fluid line), then:
1) How do I get the piston back so I can fit the bigger pads inbetween?
2) Is it correct that I only need a 18mm socket to do this job? No 7mm allen wrench like on the front?
Thanks so much!
There is another video I just saw that show just using a pry bar to push the piston in
Changing just the pads is easy. No wrench needed. Just tap the 2 pins out with a hammer and punch. To push the pistons back I just use a large screwdriver and push them back. Do one piston and pad at a time, because they are dual piston calipers, and when you press one piston in, the other one tends to move back out if there is no pad in the slot. Clean the slots where the pads go with a small file if they are rusty. Replace the rattle clip with new if in bad shape. I like to put a little high temp grease on the edges of the pad backing where it rides in the slot....helps to keep from seizing and reduces chance of pad rattle noise. Also, if one of the pistons won't push back and is seized, you'll need a new caliper. Not unusual on these when they get old.
@@saabtech3510 Thanks again! Love the tips. Will do one at the time and open the brake fluid reservoir first. Lets hope the piston will push back because I don't see myself able to replace the caliper. If not, I'll replace the old pads and bring the car to a garage. But if I can do it myself it gives more satisfaction ;)
Saab Tech, thank you for making this video. I am doing the exact same project. Can you tell me what size wrench I need to remove the brake line nut? A 10MM seems too small and an 11MM is too big. I think I rounded the nut a bit.
I believe it is 11MM. Are you using a line wrench? Or carefully use a locking pliers. (Vise Grip)
@@saabtech3510 I just ordered an 11mm flare nut wrench. If that doesn't work, I"ll try a Irvins V jaw vise grip, as someone recommended on another forum.
U still alive? What tools u did use on that brakemotor?
I see you only put one pad in the caliper on that. but when I took mine apart there were two on either side of the rotor and one of the pads I'm trying to fit in aren't going in and the other is rubbing the rotor. did I do something wrong?
You have to make sure the pistons are both pushed all the way back in the bore. Do one side at a time, as pushing one in will often move the other one out. Use a large screwdriver to lever the piston in. Should go all the way to flush with the caliper. If it won't move in, it is seized. Very common on these when they get old. In that case, you will need a new caliper.
I've recently fell in love with Saab after driving my friend's 9000 from 1986 and now I have bought myself an old 9-3, but when replacing the pads on the rear the outer pistons won't push in, how much force we put on it. The inner pistons were easy as pie, this is the case on both sides, any ideas/tips?
If those pistons won't move, you will have to replace the calipers. I found reasonably priced ones of good quality on ebay. (Spend some time searching to find the best combination of price and quality.)
@@saabtech3510 thanks for your answer! Any chance you can link me those? And there isn't like a trick that I have to turn and press like some rear brakes? They are just seized up?
@@PausLeo What's available keeps changing....best to just put in a search and choose what looks good to you. If your 9-3 is a 1999-2002 or a 2003 convertible, the pistons just push in. If you have a 2003-2011 9-3, the pistons turn in with a special tool.
@@saabtech3510 thanks, mine is a 9-3 from 1998-2002, so I guess I have a problem.
Is this a self adjust parking brake?
The parking brake shoes are, but the cables need to be adjusted with the nut on the rod over the center muffler heat shield. I explain in my parking brake cable video. You should adjust the parking brake shoes when putting on new rotors. I like to get it close before I put the rotor/drum on. There is also a small hole in the rotor/hub face that you can line up with the adjuster and adjust it through the hole, but it's tricky if you are not experienced at doing it.
Not OG, 1999 had no spoilet. Sorry
It's a 2001 9-3. The description above explains which years have the rear brake system seen in the video.
@@saabtech3510 Yes and as an owner of à 1999 93 vertible I do prefer the spolier on 2001. Mines rusting oit underneath. Sad. E brakes frozen on rear driver side, goes forward but nor back. Likely the câble câble à mess.