I'm a I.T. professional and I absolutely LOVE seeing this kind of technology being utilized in hobbies. Especially at an affordable price point. I used to watch Norm from the Tested youtube channel and all the stuff he could print on his resin printer and then soured by the cost of those printers. I'm very glad to see them coming down to a more commonly affordable price point. My brother has been using a PLA printer for some time for his little escape room projects, etc. and I have been considering getting into the 3D print space as well but was likely going to jump straight into resin given the likely size of what i'd be printing being printable by one of those small Mars printers. Would you recommend going PLA first or is the learning curve pretty similar once you get past the actually CAD part of it?
I've been printing a bunch of buildings and eventually started making my own to make my families' Xmas village a lot more "to scale" and realistic. Way cheaper and more fun too.
Jimmy, every building I have is from you and your printing. I love the products you make. I'm behind in building, but it's a summer hobby here in AZ. Thanks again for your hard work. Have you thought about an N guage accessory pack. With AC units, garbage dumpsters, chainlink fence and other detail items?
I have been printing N Scale through to G Scale items on my Elegoo Saturn since I got it last year. Earlier this year i printed my own HO Scale Flatcar and Loco Shell. Yesterday I printed HO scale boats.
They're $200 now for the Flashforge foto 8.9. I have a Voxelab Proximo 6.0 and then I got a Flashforge 9.25" 6k printer which I got for $269. No complaints with either of them the Flashforge 9.25 uses their own FlashDLPrint slicer which coming from Chitubox was strange at first but after adjusting to it the software works just fine.
The 3 D printing is not as hard as one would think, that said you really need to have a wash and curing station. So you can figure on spending $500.00 to do it right, but you can get things for your layout that will make your layout pop. You pointed out scaling a object up from an N scale to HO, I have done it in reverse. To me the hardest thing to master is the supports needed to print a model out . Thanks for the information.
I purchased one of these printers last December with the idea that I could print entire N-scale buildings on one build plate. I am still working on my first structure but I have printed a lot of nice trackside details and a variety of intermodal trailers with great detail!
After saving a bit more hobby money, breaking into my mad money stash, I have the Photon M3 / wash and cure 2.0 and the Vyper printers on the way. I had a tough time deciding between the resin, filament printers. I can see using the resin for pieces and parts for my planes and trains. I know I will use the Vyper for pieces and parts for the planes, trains and making other tools. I have down loaded the files for a couple DIY small CNC machines. The CNC machines use about 1/2 of the structure in 3D printed parts. So, now I have added another hobby in and of itself. When I am asked about my obsession with 3D printing, I will simple blame you, as you are the cause of this. :) :) :) Buzz.
Thanks Jimmy. You are getting closer and closer to persuading me of the absolute need for a resin printer. I am pleased that other people asked some of the questions that I wanted to ask. On that note could you guesstimate the cost of consumables to create one of these models. I am talking about resin, washes etc.
Jimmy: Saw you video on building N scale modules. Considering that commercially available modules are built using Baltic Birch. Baltic Birch comes from Russia and is embargoed. You if want a module you will have to build your own. This makes your video very useful. Thanks.
It sounds like you can program the printer for various original-to-printed item ratios. This would help someone with American OO scale & TT scale get some structures for their layout!
Great video Jimmy. You really make a good argument for 3D printing, but I’m still exploring and improving on my scratch building. I’m definitely going to reach out when it’s time for the next step.
Jimmy, you mentioned upscaling an Nscale CAD design to HO and printing. I’d seen somewhere that somebody said he had to thicken walls when going down from larger scale to Nscale to overcome warping. When you used an Nscale plan to resize up to HO, did you have to adjust the wall thickness so the HO building’s walls wouldn’t look too thick? Or your Nscale walls are to scale and you’ve figured how to get warping solved?
I have been looking at a 3D printer for awhile. I could use it to print parts for my R/C stuff too. Do you use a curing station, box, light or other? I see fancy wash and cure setups, fabric fold up like a tent, some with a turn table some without. What do you use and why? I can see my hobby budget taking a hit here real soon. Straight and to the point. You put out good information and a very good case to get a 3D resin printer. Looks like I need to put time into a CAD program. I was not very good with those in the past. Struggled with them. 3D printers, resin or extrusion used to be the things of science fiction. Then it was way to costly to get either or you had to be a good DIY to build your own. Now, you can have a small CNC, 3D resin and an extrusion printer. Imagine bringing some one from 1950-1960 NASA working on the Saturn series, what would they think of all this? George Jetson and Star Trek. If we could 3D print the food, inside a microwave oven, we could have a Star Trek food processor. Buzz.
You are AWESOME!!! My wallet may not like you, but I sure do :) . Looks like I will be getting a 3D printer and wash station instead of flex track, turnouts and a few Show Case Miniatures. Thank you for the help and all you do here. I had $340.00 in track in my cart. I don't have a spot for the layout yet, so 3D printer it is. Buzz.
Hey Jimmy, have you done any n scale caged ladders?(for industrial use). And if so would you use a resin or filament printer. I use to get these detail parts from shapeways. But it looks like I'm going to have to start making my own
Wonderful video! I have seen someone make an ho scale model 4-4-0 steam locomotive and then add the motor after. Pretty cool stuff. What would you say is the best 3D printer for making realistic models?
Thanks for the video. I'm super keen getting into 3d printing my HO scale buildings, figures etc. But I'm really lost where to look for files. I know there so many sites and just lost in the jungle. I'm still looking for a file developer that provides a steady flow of good quality print files. Initially looking to print a train station, houses and people.
Looks great....what time frame was needed to print the shop in HO? With the current shipping and deglobalisation the plasma 3d looks to become the way of the modellers future...oh geeez...will we loose our hand skills?
@@DIYDigitalRailroad thats pretty quick...I would probably have to wait a month to get something like this delivered. Most of the time one would have to assemble some stuff as well.
HO scale buildings....!! Does the whole Garstand, Austrian Narrow Guage Depot in 009/HOe count...? (18 months ago). As for actual buildings in HO, mate you don't know the half of it "the taxidermy man he gonna have a heart attack when he see what I brought him.....".
I've been doing resin printing for a few years now, and am still wondering why most people seemingly automatically tilt every model. From my personal experience, those models you printed in this video don't need any tilting. You're just wasting resin and creating additional clean-up. Sure, some models NEED tilting - absolutely. But those are models with a high lateral surface area ratio, which could cause problems with separating from the film as the bed rises, due to a vacuum buildup. Thus, tilting the model avoids that build-up of a vacuum. But your models have a very low cross section (just four vertical walls). So they should be able to be printed with zero tilt. I.e., just include short supports at the base of the model... enough to keep it adhered to the base plate, and print the model in its native vertical orientation without any tilt. You'll find that your layer lines are cleaner and more detailed. That's been my experience, anyway.
Oh, think how big a model you could make in N-scale now! One question: What tool(s) do you use to separate the model from the supports? I tried sprue cutters (Xuron) but the model shattered. Cheers.
You can use the cutters before fully curing the model, while it is still relatively soft. I've heard that soaking a fully cured model in warm water makes it easier to remove supports without damaging the model too.
Hey Jimmy! How are you my friend. I really would love to have that model for my HO layout. Is this possible? Where can I download this model or models you have. Thanks and happy railroading.
The 3 story building took 12 hours. The 2 story building took 8. That may seem like a long time, but it’s still faster and cheaper than buying a model online. The models use a few dollars worth of resin.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad Since you brought up the expense of the models, how many buildings (N-Scale houses for example) would it take to pay for the printer and supplies? Where would the break-even point be? I ask because I am on a fixed (VERY FIXED) income. Of course, the answer will depend on how good someone is at using the software to generate the drawing and not throwing away the building due to poor skills. I have a couple of your N Scale Row House Buildings and they look great sitting in the box.
$299.00 Is still a very hefty price tag for that machine, I'll just stick to the good old fashioned injection molded plastic kits i must admit those 3D models are very good i would rather buy a 3D printed ready made model than make one due to the fact that im strictly a build it out of the box and ready off the shelf guy .
A totally uninformed or maybe ill-informed person regarding 3D printing. But, is there a reason the walls appear to be so thick in comparison to styrene kits? Buildings appear "heavy". Must use a lot of resin printing product, specially in HO scale prints.
That is a result of me just scaling up the N scale model. But I do print think walls to prevent warping. I do test prints to see how thin I can get them.
I love the detail and quality with resin printing, but the process has me apprehensive. The liquid nature of the resin, curing, washing. It just seems cumbersome and so easy to screw up. Maybe the reality isn't as bad as theory but without going through the motions myself it's hard to know.
One thing I found out about after getting my Anycubic Photon 3D printer. The LCD panel of 3D resin printer is a consumable and after while the hours of UV light exposure degrades the LCD panel and it will need to be replaced. The Photon's LCD service life is around 400hrs, newer models around 2,000hrs. So, if you need several items, don't print one at a time, print as many as possible in one print job. One thing or ten, same print time, unlike a PLA printer.
@@KWHCoaster This should ease somewhat when laser write units replace the LCD-based devices (or, at least, the manufacturers are saying it should), but the cheapest laser unit I've seen remains at least twice as expensive...
No, that's CHEAP for a 3D printer...I wouldn't consider anything under $500, personally I'd spend more than less...but that's just me as for certain things I want a more professional product.
I'm a I.T. professional and I absolutely LOVE seeing this kind of technology being utilized in hobbies. Especially at an affordable price point. I used to watch Norm from the Tested youtube channel and all the stuff he could print on his resin printer and then soured by the cost of those printers. I'm very glad to see them coming down to a more commonly affordable price point. My brother has been using a PLA printer for some time for his little escape room projects, etc. and I have been considering getting into the 3D print space as well but was likely going to jump straight into resin given the likely size of what i'd be printing being printable by one of those small Mars printers. Would you recommend going PLA first or is the learning curve pretty similar once you get past the actually CAD part of it?
Yes, I worked with an IT PROFESSIONAL. He was really good at leaving software pit-falls in the code. "Locked it UP - here - !"
@@RichardKuivila1947 Thanks for the relevant reply. Sounds like your guy was a scrub coder. Not really what I'd call an I.T. professional.
oh no, not another hobby! What a great idea Jimmy. Thank you.
I've been printing a bunch of buildings and eventually started making my own to make my families' Xmas village a lot more "to scale" and realistic. Way cheaper and more fun too.
Thanks Jimmy for bringing these new tools to light🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋
Sweet, Jimmy, this will make some HO folks very happy, I'm sure!
Jimmy, every building I have is from you and your printing. I love the products you make. I'm behind in building, but it's a summer hobby here in AZ. Thanks again for your hard work. Have you thought about an N guage accessory pack. With AC units, garbage dumpsters, chainlink fence and other detail items?
Yes yes yes!!!! Please!
Great timing on the video. Train Club I belong to is purchasing a 3D resin printer. Keep up the good work!
I have been printing N Scale through to G Scale items on my Elegoo Saturn since I got it last year. Earlier this year i printed my own HO Scale Flatcar and Loco Shell. Yesterday I printed HO scale boats.
I’ll definitely be considering this one
nice looking prints. i have a few of your n scale buildings and they look nice. thanks for sharing David @LCRR
the prints look great i model the PRR and they wold look great in my Newcastle seen
They're $200 now for the Flashforge foto 8.9. I have a Voxelab Proximo 6.0 and then I got a Flashforge 9.25" 6k printer which I got for $269. No complaints with either of them the Flashforge 9.25 uses their own FlashDLPrint slicer which coming from Chitubox was strange at first but after adjusting to it the software works just fine.
Exactly what I plan to make, thanks.
Do you have a great link for 3D models ?
Only just got me an FDM unit too... I was thinking of an SLA printer but that is sometime in the future.
The 3 D printing is not as hard as one would think, that said you really need to have a wash and curing station. So you can figure on spending $500.00 to do it right, but you can get things for your layout that will make your layout pop. You pointed out scaling a object up from an N scale to HO, I have done it in reverse. To me the hardest thing to master is the supports needed to print a model out . Thanks for the information.
I purchased one of these printers last December with the idea that I could print entire N-scale buildings on one build plate. I am still working on my first structure but I have printed a lot of nice trackside details and a variety of intermodal trailers with great detail!
After saving a bit more hobby money, breaking into my mad money stash, I have the Photon M3 / wash and cure 2.0 and the Vyper printers on the way. I had a tough time deciding between the resin, filament printers. I can see using the resin for pieces and parts for my planes and trains. I know I will use the Vyper for pieces and parts for the planes, trains and making other tools. I have down loaded the files for a couple DIY small CNC machines. The CNC machines use about 1/2 of the structure in 3D printed parts. So, now I have added another hobby in and of itself.
When I am asked about my obsession with 3D printing, I will simple blame you, as you are the cause of this. :) :) :)
Buzz.
good vid on the channel jim thanks lee
Very nice Jimmy, thanks for keeping us updated, now if I would just use my printer.
Great advice and gives me the idea that a 3D printer is affordable for me and will help me with all the castings for my layout
Thanks Jimmy. You are getting closer and closer to persuading me of the absolute need for a resin printer. I am pleased that other people asked some of the questions that I wanted to ask. On that note could you guesstimate the cost of consumables to create one of these models. I am talking about resin, washes etc.
Jimmy: Saw you video on building N scale modules. Considering that commercially available modules are built using Baltic Birch. Baltic Birch comes from Russia and is embargoed. You if want a module you will have to build your own. This makes your video very useful. Thanks.
It sounds like you can program the printer for various original-to-printed item ratios. This would help someone with American OO scale & TT scale get some structures for their layout!
They look amazing. So what is the print time on those size of models?
Nice! Got overly excited thinking the store was back up, looked…. Still nothing on it, but I’m guessing a restock is coming soon!
It’s coming I swear. It’s just been a busy few months.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad lol, Even if you said it will be next august, I’ll still check every day!
Great video Jimmy. You really make a good argument for 3D printing, but I’m still exploring and improving on my scratch building. I’m definitely going to reach out when it’s time for the next step.
Jimmy, you mentioned upscaling an Nscale CAD design to HO and printing. I’d seen somewhere that somebody said he had to thicken walls when going down from larger scale to Nscale to overcome warping.
When you used an Nscale plan to resize up to HO, did you have to adjust the wall thickness so the HO building’s walls wouldn’t look too thick?
Or your Nscale walls are to scale and you’ve figured how to get warping solved?
I have been looking at a 3D printer for awhile. I could use it to print parts for my R/C stuff too. Do you use a curing station, box, light or other? I see fancy wash and cure setups, fabric fold up like a tent, some with a turn table some without. What do you use and why? I can see my hobby budget taking a hit here real soon.
Straight and to the point. You put out good information and a very good case to get a 3D resin printer. Looks like I need to put time into a CAD program. I was not very good with those in the past. Struggled with them.
3D printers, resin or extrusion used to be the things of science fiction. Then it was way to costly to get either or you had to be a good DIY to build your own. Now, you can have a small CNC, 3D resin and an extrusion printer. Imagine bringing some one from 1950-1960 NASA working on the Saturn series, what would they think of all this? George Jetson and Star Trek. If we could 3D print the food, inside a microwave oven, we could have a Star Trek food processor.
Buzz.
So I have tried other things. The Elegoo Mercury Plus is my favorite. I also switched to water washable resin to save money.
You are AWESOME!!! My wallet may not like you, but I sure do :) . Looks like I will be getting a 3D printer and wash station instead of flex track, turnouts and a few Show Case Miniatures. Thank you for the help and all you do here. I had $340.00 in track in my cart. I don't have a spot for the layout yet, so 3D printer it is.
Buzz.
@@dorkydoo683 … way to go. Priority planning is a must. I’m just wondering… how long are cure times?
I could see someone printing a big mac or a whopper as a joke! And don't forget French Fries.
Hey Jimmy, have you done any n scale caged ladders?(for industrial use). And if so would you use a resin or filament printer. I use to get these detail parts from shapeways. But it looks like I'm going to have to start making my own
Hi Jimmy I need your help and I don't know if you have MTS Signal circuit board and can you look at the bottom of schematic please Jimmy thank you
I don't have a printer but thinking about one. Where do you get your plans or your designs? Thank you
Is there an environmentally friendly resin or is this just another way we are adding to the plastic problem??
This is amazing. It would be a way to get model parts not available. Great video.
Wonderful video! I have seen someone make an ho scale model 4-4-0 steam locomotive and then add the motor after. Pretty cool stuff. What would you say is the best 3D printer for making realistic models?
Thanks for the video. I'm super keen getting into 3d printing my HO scale buildings, figures etc. But I'm really lost where to look for files. I know there so many sites and just lost in the jungle. I'm still looking for a file developer that provides a steady flow of good quality print files. Initially looking to print a train station, houses and people.
Looks great....what time frame was needed to print the shop in HO? With the current shipping and deglobalisation the plasma 3d looks to become the way of the modellers future...oh geeez...will we loose our hand skills?
The print took about 8 hours.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad thats pretty quick...I would probably have to wait a month to get something like this delivered. Most of the time one would have to assemble some stuff as well.
I wounder when they make one with a 42" screen that can print a whole car.. or.. well at least a go-cart in one go.
Im looking to populate my layout and looking for files of people to 3d print myself.. Any recommendations? Thanks
HO scale buildings....!! Does the whole Garstand, Austrian Narrow Guage Depot in 009/HOe count...? (18 months ago). As for actual buildings in HO, mate you don't know the half of it "the taxidermy man he gonna have a heart attack when he see what I brought him.....".
Why do you need the supports in the slicer vs printing the building they way it would sit on the layout?
I've been doing resin printing for a few years now, and am still wondering why most people seemingly automatically tilt every model. From my personal experience, those models you printed in this video don't need any tilting. You're just wasting resin and creating additional clean-up.
Sure, some models NEED tilting - absolutely. But those are models with a high lateral surface area ratio, which could cause problems with separating from the film as the bed rises, due to a vacuum buildup. Thus, tilting the model avoids that build-up of a vacuum. But your models have a very low cross section (just four vertical walls). So they should be able to be printed with zero tilt. I.e., just include short supports at the base of the model... enough to keep it adhered to the base plate, and print the model in its native vertical orientation without any tilt. You'll find that your layer lines are cleaner and more detailed.
That's been my experience, anyway.
Loving this alot
Do you buy your bottles of resin on Amazon too? And on average how many prints can you get with one bottle?
What’s the point of the tilt? I’ve only run my filament printer so far.
Now all we need is one for o gauge 😂
Oh, think how big a model you could make in N-scale now! One question: What tool(s) do you use to separate the model from the supports? I tried sprue cutters (Xuron) but the model shattered. Cheers.
You can use the cutters before fully curing the model, while it is still relatively soft. I've heard that soaking a fully cured model in warm water makes it easier to remove supports without damaging the model too.
Hey Jimmy! How are you my friend. I really would love to have that model for my HO layout. Is this possible? Where can I download this model or models you have. Thanks and happy railroading.
I know nothing about 3D printing other than what I have seen here. In real-time, how long did it take to print/cure each of those buildings?
The 3 story building took 12 hours. The 2 story building took 8. That may seem like a long time, but it’s still faster and cheaper than buying a model online. The models use a few dollars worth of resin.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad Since you brought up the expense of the models, how many buildings (N-Scale houses for example) would it take to pay for the printer and supplies? Where would the break-even point be? I ask because I am on a fixed (VERY FIXED) income. Of course, the answer will depend on how good someone is at using the software to generate the drawing and not throwing away the building due to poor skills. I have a couple of your N Scale Row House Buildings and they look great sitting in the box.
Is that possible to print House without support ?
will this be on your etsy any time soon
I have been insanely busy with my full time job and work recently. I am planning to get etsy going again soon!
😊
What do you charge for that n gauge building you featured in this video?
Hello! I charge $10 for that building when it is in stock.
Why don't you print the buildings straight... without the support ?
what do you use to make your prints? I have a resin printer and want to design a couple things for my layout
Tinkercad is a pretty powerful free tool
What is "Hem" scale ?
Why do all resin models have to be tilted?
Easier to get it off the build plate?
Tilting reduced obvious layer lines and reduces the stress on each layer as it cures so that you have fewer failed prints.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad thanks
Layer lines ? ! NOT on my Resin printer !
What are the supports for. If there are no stress points?
They help keep the lines as straight as possible during the print so they don’t sag.
where can I find your models to print?
All of my models are available at the Engineer level of my patreon. The Patreon is linked in the description.
$299.00 Is still a very hefty price tag for that machine, I'll just stick to the good old fashioned injection molded plastic kits i must admit those 3D models are very good i would rather buy a 3D printed ready made model than make one due to the fact that im strictly a build it out of the box and ready off the shelf guy .
Can I hire someone to build a 3D model of my house from 3-d AutoCAD files?
I remodel and build houses, and it would be so fun to make models of my clients homes and then show them their house in my model railroad
A totally uninformed or maybe ill-informed person regarding 3D printing. But, is there a reason the walls appear to be so thick in comparison to styrene kits? Buildings appear "heavy". Must use a lot of resin printing product, specially in HO scale prints.
That is a result of me just scaling up the N scale model. But I do print think walls to prevent warping. I do test prints to see how thin I can get them.
I love the detail and quality with resin printing, but the process has me apprehensive. The liquid nature of the resin, curing, washing. It just seems cumbersome and so easy to screw up. Maybe the reality isn't as bad as theory but without going through the motions myself it's hard to know.
Just another tool in your workshop you'll need to learn to use.
It’s really not that bad. I actually just switched to water washable resin and a wash an cure station simplifies the process.
you did not mention the support removal which is for me the least pleasant step.
One thing I found out about after getting my Anycubic Photon 3D printer. The LCD panel of 3D resin printer is a consumable and after while the hours of UV light exposure degrades the LCD panel and it will need to be replaced. The Photon's LCD service life is around 400hrs, newer models around 2,000hrs. So, if you need several items, don't print one at a time, print as many as possible in one print job. One thing or ten, same print time, unlike a PLA printer.
@@KWHCoaster This should ease somewhat when laser write units replace the LCD-based devices (or, at least, the manufacturers are saying it should), but the cheapest laser unit I've seen remains at least twice as expensive...
Resign is highly toxic. It needs proper ventilation. With an exhausting fan.
No, that's CHEAP for a 3D printer...I wouldn't consider anything under $500, personally I'd spend more than less...but that's just me as for certain things I want a more professional product.
Sorry, I'll never accept 3D printing as DIY.