Experts Test Color Fill Techniques on Laser Engraved Unfinished Wood: Paint Filling, Powder Coating
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- Have you ever wondered what happens when you use different techniques to color-fill laser engraving on unfinished wood? Wonder no more! We show you our results and recommendations for the next time you're looking to add color to your laser projects.
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To further explain why your test didn't work from a wood working perspective.
The laser is removing your seal coat therefore essentially you are painting unsealed wood in each of these. The end grain (which is like straws) of the plywood veneer is soaking in the paint . This is worse for the spray can because the paint is thinner.
It would be better, as already said, to seal after engraving with 1-2 coats of the sanding sealer. Two coats are probably best. The end grain will get clogged with the sanding sealer and should prevent the paint from being absorbed by the end grain. If you still seal the top of the board you should be able to use acetone to clean off any paint that might have gotten on the top of the surface.
Thanks for the video.
I have had good success with masking, etching, THEN applying the clear topcoat, and painting. It seems seal up the etching pocket really well and leave crisp lines. I use a fast drying shellac, done in 20 or so. You should try it!
Thanks! We're going to definitely try this. :-)
So do you apply the clear coat with the mask on?
@@thechalkshop574 yup! it's still super easy to remove afterwards.
This method works well with cnc milling too.
I was waiting to see this method!!
Here's what you didn't try:
1. Clear coat
2 .Mask
3. Engrave
4. Clear coat again
You made an excellent experiment and all I read is comments of people who think "they knew better than you"... it is not what they say to you, it is the way they say it. I thank you for sharing this experiment, it is truly interesting, and though there may be even "better" solutions to the bleeding problem, I learned a lot from you. and hoping to see more from you and trying more methods, I will try them myself as well!
The Way to prevent bleed is Mask, Engrave, spray with shellac (this seals the area to be painted and shellac is the only thing compatible with Oil based and water based paint), Paint and unmask
Thanks for the video. I was looking to solve bleeding issues myself so I asked in a group of people that do it all the time (I have not tested myself yet) The consensus was, forget masking, laser, then seal with a clear (some said lacquer, some said shellac) then paint to fill and then sand off the top layer of paint leaving the paint inside the engraving. I think I will try your mask, seal , engrave, light coat method myself against this other method. I had tried this but with heavy coats (I tend to do 2 heavy coats when painting wood).
I do CNC work where I cut the logo in as well. It's a MUST to seal AFTER cutting since you need to seal the sides where it bleeds. I do 2 coats of shellac. Dries fast.
Do you recommend a specific product? TIA
add a step, after you clearcoat, carve, then clearcoat your actual carving to seal it then add spraypaint........easy, fast, and perfect results
I too find that a first coat of spray shellac, masking, cut (CNC) or burn (laser), more shellac to seal the freshly cut wood ends. and spray paint after that works well.
For the powder coatings, after first heating them with the laser, try heating them in a toaster oven for 30 minutes or so at a temp somewhere north of the materials melting point. I have a toaster oven in my shop dedicated to such projects so I don't have to try these things in the kitchen. Think it was maybe $35, but you might get a good deal on one from a thrift shop.
Great video 😀
One trick that may work well is airbrushing. I haven't tried it yet but the process should have similar excellent results. It's light in application so it shouldn't bleed under the tape. Just a thought.
Scott.
this was cool. just started using the 'powder fill" method, but with a heat gun. a lot easier.
I think what we learned is that if I want color, I will use my cnc router instead! Thanks for all the testing.
If you peel the masking while the acrylic paint is still wet it will peel cleanly
My favorite part of the video is the squeaky poop 💩 😂😂😂
Not sure why u didn't seal the wood after engrave
Interesting testing. I have not tried painting a laser etching yet, but I plan to. The spray paint method works for a single color, but what about if you were to add several colors.
If you're not able to cover sections between colors, then you might want to try something like having the laser only cut or engrave one "color layer" at a time. I would look at these videos below for what I'm referring to.
ruclips.net/video/Sf5u6rzOEXg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/lm08qw9ihMs/видео.html
So, do you always have to mask the wood before engraving or would the air assist work? Do you use air assist? Thanks!
I would have used a heat gun with the embossing powder. Nice video thanks!
Could tried clear spray paint engraving to seal fibers then spray paint color engraving.
What clear coat are you using?
Why not just sand the top leaving the painted finish? If you had a planer you could do large bulk with minimal work.
In not sure but I think a better masking material would do a better job to🤔 like painting a wall or like when painting a car..
Could you put the powder coated pieces in a oven?
I would just give up on this kind of wood. Have you tested paint filling also on MDF?
Yes, that's what we typically use. Paint filling MDF works great!
An airbrush would be the way to go and if you use powder then use a heat gun .
2:35 work smarter, not harder. Time is $$. Would it be possible to do a cut out, outline, I don't know the phraseology, on a thin piece of vinyl, then glue/melt, it in the engraved areas?
We've never tried it, but if the design is simple enough, something like that would probably work!
does it work on steel?
You need a fiber 1064nm, or CO2 laser to etch metal. To get this deep, probably at least a 60w.
why dont you use lacquer to seal engraving then paint?
Because we were trying to test to see what could be done to the wood pre-processing to save on post-processing time.
1. Engrave then spray with clear coat (2 light cost) then spray or paint as you please. 2. use a heat gun i.s.o. your laser to melt the embossing or powder coat to get an even look. I never done this but common sense prevail.
Have you tried spraying a clearcoat into the engraved area before you paint it?
Your comment is the second time we've received this suggestion and we're definitely going to try it. We always focus on pre-prepping materials before they go into the laser. It never occurred to us to try sealing after the fact. Thanks for the suggestion. We appreciate it. :-)
Why aren't you applying the sealer after you engrave? That is where its bleeding from not the top where the sealer still is.
Thanks for the video. Sorry... you missed the boat. ???? Clear coating before engraving ???? The paint is not bleeding through the surface in to the surounding wood fibers. It is bleeding from the edges of the engraved areas. The deeper the engraving, the worse it gets. Suggestion: Mask the surface with transfer tape (extra wide low tack masking tape). Then engrave. Then spray with clear spray paint in light coats. Let the clear coat bleed all it wants too, it doesn't matter because it doesn't show. After that drys, then spray your colored paint. Then remove the masking when dry. If the clear coat's bleed shows a little, hit the whole thing with a matt clear coat at the end. That should make the clear coat bleed disapear from view. I have not yet experimented with professional wood, water sealers such as Thompson's Water Sealer products... but as they all contain water glass, I suspect they cause charing of the wood similar too borax treated wood. Thompson's products soak in deep. Deeper than the engravings. It might be worth it in a mass productions process where you treat all of your wood before engraving, but you risk causing thin birch ply to warp from getting that wet. Keep up the good work, and thanks for helping bring back a manufacturing mind set.
Why didn’t you clear coat AFTER engraving as well. Shouldn’t it be obvious that it would bleed the way you did it because the engraving exposes raw wood with tin the art where of course it’s going to bleed. That needs sealing.
Mask>engrave>clear coat>spray. That should be the most obvious trial and you missed it