I have enjoyed your videos Matt, thanks for the time and effort. I am also a Seattle area guy and I have been sitting on a couple Early Broncos in need of work for years and I have to say your videos have got me into the mood to work on them again.
That's great to hear Waylon. If you ever want to see them on the channel just shoot me an e-mail at mattsgarageshow@gmail.com. Even if you don't want to be on the channel, or you feel they aren't in the right condition, the fact is Bronco guys like seeing broncos. Heck even if there is no episode, I'd like to come see them just for fun and meet my subscribers. Let me know.
Good video, I always torque the bottom to 70 ft lbs and then adjust the sleeve until I have 15 to 25 lbs of drag on it( I use a luggage weighing scale to check it) and then torque top to 100.
Whether you do 65,80,or 200 lb/ft of torque on the lower ball joint nut changes nothing. It's a tapered fit. Once it bottom out in the taper the additional torque won't change your preload. However The upper preload adjustment threaded sleeve and nut torque will.
The lower ball should be torqued to 80ft lbs then the upper balljoint insert to 50ft lbs and at last the upper ball joint nut should be torqued to 100 ft lbs.
Here is one theory: You painted anti-seize on the threaded insert. That acts as a lubricant, possibly allowing your 50 ft-lb of torque to over tighten the insert resulting in too much pre-load? Anyway, really helpful video. Thank you!
Karl Waldner thanks Karl, so that’s where the 26lb number I mentioned must come from. It’s just so much less torque on the nuts than the spec says. I guess drag takes precedence?
ball sshould be greases a bit from factory,teiwan/china.malasia,.even...never had prob with circlip.,.made a adjust cone,out of pipe,when you have 2 nuts together,the first is allways less as the second pushes it down.wait till you do the hubs,,i replaced them once in a driveway with bugger all tools.2lb hammer,socket set.
The instructions that came with my Moog ball joints say 70 foot-pounds bottom. Adjusting sleeve to 70 foot-pounds 😬😬. Top ball joint to 100 foot-pounds
Do you put the knuckle on first then the camber bushing then torque? Because with the camber bushing in before the knuckle the bottom ball joint doesn't come through the hole enough to get a nut on it.
The threaded insert is how you adjust the tension. It is part of a torque sequence that you have done wrong. Plenty of info on the web about the correct procedure.
hello friend how can I find the special socket that you show in your video. I'm talking about the socket with which you adjust the ball joint above. I want to know what it is called to look it up online
Hey Matt, great video. I just installed one of Tom's 44 Mags and had the knuckles installed by them prior to shipping. They were very tight too. I have been thinking they overtightened them for shipping purposes, but after watching your video I am rethinking that....Did you find any definitive answer?
David, congrats, that's gonna be a great axle for you. I plan on calling Phil from Tom's tomorrow as he's helping me work through some rear disc brake issues (my axles were bent and it was causing lots of runout so I ordered new axle shafts today). I forgot to ask him about the front knuckles but I'll ask him about that and the Mag 44 and get back to you. Hey e-mail me a pic of it at mattsgarageshow@gmail.com. If I were building a trail rig, that's the way I would go. Let me the ratio and planned tire size too. Heck send me pictures of the rig too!
Yeah Brian, it's gonna look pretty stock from the outside but with a roller 5.0, hot cam, overdrive and some other hidden modern touches (4-wheel discs, etc.) Still debating A/C. For the color I'm still deciding but I'm kinda feeling the Cavalry Blue or Heritage Blue. Not original Ford colors but I think they could look awesome on the Bronco because they "look" 70's without actually being 70's colors.
Brian you know, I’m not 100% sure but it sounds right. I just refer to it as a roller motor. I think the terms all get thrown around loosely because a 5.0 is the same bore and stroke as the old 302’s so it’s also a 302. The block architecture was basically unchanged (except for mods to make it a roller) from the 60’s all the way up until the 4.6 came out in 90’s I think. Don’t quote me on the dates and stuff, I’m no expert.
doing a GM 10 bolt same deal on the knuckles and GM book says 100ft lbs on sleeve and 25 lbs of pull on knuckle, my question is did you load them with grease before you tested the pull? I see it is an old video so how was the outcome did you have any failure or readjustments on sleeve?
james hi James. I didn’t load them with grease, maybe should have. After the video I torqued them down and then hit the knuckles with a peen hammer and that relieved the stress. I sold the bronco to mile3 garage so we’ll see how it goes once he gets it in the road!
@@MattsGarage Thanks always good to get a heads up when instructions confuse the novice as you torqued to 50 and thought it was to tight and backed it off I cant imagine what 100 would do, I am not necessarily a novice but this is a first for me
james I feel you. I never quite figured it out myself. I have been told they do loosen up but the specs seem crazy. But what do I know? I’m a construction manager :-)
Cecil, you think that's true even if I go to spec torque and can not even move them without a lot of force? I'm looking for some specific advice because this is all new to me.
I love this video ! Very informational and no music no crap just good ol fashioned instruction
Rick Russell that’s how I try to roll.
Thank You, for taking the time to explain troughly.
I have enjoyed your videos Matt, thanks for the time and effort. I am also a Seattle area guy and I have been sitting on a couple Early Broncos in need of work for years and I have to say your videos have got me into the mood to work on them again.
That's great to hear Waylon. If you ever want to see them on the channel just shoot me an e-mail at mattsgarageshow@gmail.com. Even if you don't want to be on the channel, or you feel they aren't in the right condition, the fact is Bronco guys like seeing broncos. Heck even if there is no episode, I'd like to come see them just for fun and meet my subscribers. Let me know.
Good video, I always torque the bottom to 70 ft lbs and then adjust the sleeve until I have 15 to 25 lbs of drag on it( I use a luggage weighing scale to check it) and then torque top to 100.
Great video. Perfect timing. I watched this to help me do mine.
Happy to help!
Great video, I’m in the middle of rebuilding my front Dana 44 on my 72 k5 blazer. It was very helpful for a glorified parts changer like myself.
You fool person
80#'s on the bottom nut is B.S. 65 #'s and call it a good day. Top nut until you get 25# pre-load. Nice video.
Thanks Robert!
Whether you do 65,80,or 200 lb/ft of torque on the lower ball joint nut changes nothing. It's a tapered fit. Once it bottom out in the taper the additional torque won't change your preload. However The upper preload adjustment threaded sleeve and nut torque will.
The In-house MOD on grinding down the top of the knuckle would confuse me yet now It makes total sense to do this to make clip work..
Thx
I hv never had to machine knuckles, my question is iv used moog ball joints, just curious in length of body of ball joint in comparison,
i was thinking the same thing, shouldnt have had to grind anything
Had this problem with my 1986 k10 chevy… moog and Haynes manuals are absolutely wrong on the Torque specs ….it completely will bind your knuckle.
The lower ball should be torqued to 80ft lbs then the upper balljoint insert to 50ft lbs and at last the upper ball joint nut should be torqued to 100 ft lbs.
wish i could help. looks like you did it right. i have never done that.
Here is one theory: You painted anti-seize on the threaded insert. That acts as a lubricant, possibly allowing your 50 ft-lb of torque to over tighten the insert resulting in too much pre-load? Anyway, really helpful video. Thank you!
I agree, wet/dry specs are often 2:1 or more. Be more like 40 & 25 ftlbs.
You should never torque a dry bolt!
@@RyanGrisham umm what😂😂😂
Since these have a zirk, maybe they aren't pre-greased and thats why they are dragging so much, moly grease would seem preferable
Page 170 from Chilton Bronco 1966 -77 Attach a pull scale fish scale to the knuckle and check the turning effort. Pull should not exceed 26 lb.
Karl Waldner thanks Karl, so that’s where the 26lb number I mentioned must come from. It’s just so much less torque on the nuts than the spec says. I guess drag takes precedence?
Ok I installed mine and the drivers side knuckle is very easy to turn after following torque specs .
ball sshould be greases a bit from factory,teiwan/china.malasia,.even...never had prob with circlip.,.made a adjust cone,out of pipe,when you have 2 nuts together,the first is allways less as the second pushes it down.wait till you do the hubs,,i replaced them once in a driveway with bugger all tools.2lb hammer,socket set.
With the clamp you do the bottom ball joint first
The instructions that came with my Moog ball joints say 70 foot-pounds bottom. Adjusting sleeve to 70 foot-pounds 😬😬. Top ball joint to 100 foot-pounds
Do you put the knuckle on first then the camber bushing then torque? Because with the camber bushing in before the knuckle the bottom ball joint doesn't come through the hole enough to get a nut on it.
Sorry it's been so long, I don't remember!
@@MattsGarage understandable. Thank you though.
They will break in mine was the same way
The threaded insert is how you adjust the tension. It is part of a torque sequence that you have done wrong. Plenty of info on the web about the correct procedure.
Can you explain the procedure please
@@fernandocabral275 of course not😂 he just wanted to be a snob
Good video, Good tech stuff
hello friend how can I find the special socket that you show in your video. I'm talking about the socket with which you adjust the ball joint above. I want to know what it is called to look it up online
Hello Jesus. Search “ball joint spanner wrench” + your type of axle (for example “Dana 44” and you should see it
OTC makes one.... OTC 7080 is the number of the tool.
Hey Matt, great video. I just installed one of Tom's 44 Mags and had the knuckles installed by them prior to shipping. They were very tight too. I have been thinking they overtightened them for shipping purposes, but after watching your video I am rethinking that....Did you find any definitive answer?
David, congrats, that's gonna be a great axle for you. I plan on calling Phil from Tom's tomorrow as he's helping me work through some rear disc brake issues (my axles were bent and it was causing lots of runout so I ordered new axle shafts today). I forgot to ask him about the front knuckles but I'll ask him about that and the Mag 44 and get back to you. Hey e-mail me a pic of it at mattsgarageshow@gmail.com. If I were building a trail rig, that's the way I would go. Let me the ratio and planned tire size too. Heck send me pictures of the rig too!
Hi matt I think as long as there both torqued to same spec they will wear in just fine.after all your just torquing the nuts down
Do you plan on going original specs or making changes and what color do u want to paint it
Yeah Brian, it's gonna look pretty stock from the outside but with a roller 5.0, hot cam, overdrive and some other hidden modern touches (4-wheel discs, etc.) Still debating A/C. For the color I'm still deciding but I'm kinda feeling the Cavalry Blue or Heritage Blue. Not original Ford colors but I think they could look awesome on the Bronco because they "look" 70's without actually being 70's colors.
Matt's Garage i would do a vibrant color with a white hard top very beuatiful and take the simple body really far with looks
Matt's Garage probably not the place for this question but does a roller cam make a 302 a 5.0? Ik technically a 302 is a 4.9 but to everyone its a 5.0
Brian you know, I’m not 100% sure but it sounds right. I just refer to it as a roller motor. I think the terms all get thrown around loosely because a 5.0 is the same bore and stroke as the old 302’s so it’s also a 302. The block architecture was basically unchanged (except for mods to make it a roller) from the 60’s all the way up until the 4.6 came out in 90’s I think. Don’t quote me on the dates and stuff, I’m no expert.
doing a GM 10 bolt same deal on the knuckles and GM book says 100ft lbs on sleeve and 25 lbs of pull on knuckle, my question is did you load them with grease before you tested the pull? I see it is an old video so how was the outcome did you have any failure or readjustments on sleeve?
james hi James. I didn’t load them with grease, maybe should have. After the video I torqued them down and then hit the knuckles with a peen hammer and that relieved the stress. I sold the bronco to mile3 garage so we’ll see how it goes once he gets it in the road!
@@MattsGarage Thanks always good to get a heads up when instructions confuse the novice as you torqued to 50 and thought it was to tight and backed it off I cant imagine what 100 would do, I am not necessarily a novice but this is a first for me
@@MattsGarage great video though at any rate thanks again
james I feel you. I never quite figured it out myself. I have been told they do loosen up but the specs seem crazy. But what do I know? I’m a construction manager :-)
Break in and some grease will loosen it up dome
Cecil, you think that's true even if I go to spec torque and can not even move them without a lot of force? I'm looking for some specific advice because this is all new to me.
Anytime I’ve done greasable ball joints the were really stiff initially, hope this helps