Very excellent video! I particularly appreciated your tour of the working parts. Like many others, the T fitting linking the air pump, the control board, the pressure release valve and the top of the hot water tank in my Keurig has disintegrated and water was leaking all over the place. As you suggested, I ordered a fitting from US Plastics and will reconnect to bypass the release valve. I have noticed that the back flow from the hot water tank is pretty strong. I hope that once the tubing is connected to the new fitting, the hot water will be impeded from reaching the air pump by the compression of the confined air in the tubing. Thanks for making this video.
Sounds like you understand this pretty well and have a good solution in hand. I agree that the compression of the air in the tubing should protect the water from getting forced into the air pump - as long as the tube remains looped as it goes down beneath the air pump and then heads back up again as it connects to the air pump. This U shape may help keep water out of the pump.
I hope you can get it apart and maybe there's something simple that can be done. I don't believe there ever has been a simple way to drain the water out for long term storage.
Great video. we gonna attempt taking ours apart. we will also use fiber stick tools they are handy tools no sharp object. Your so patient which is the key.
20:41 how come the last two pieces can’t come off together? Can’t see an issue in them staying together by grabbing the front up and then back. But I am stuck by jumping ahead and not pulling the first of the two away…none of my other tools were working as well as your angle prying tool 😢my finger are shredded so far and will likely not work at all tomorrow.
I got mine to drain by removing the top cover (should have removed the trim ring first - broke a wire) pulling the silicone tube off, and sticking a piece of 1/8" OD tubing up the tube to let air in. A piece of non-tube would have also worked to break the surface tension. The water dribbled out pretty slowly but it all came out while I held the unit upside down over the sink. I soldered the broken wire back together and all seems good.
It sounds like to achieve what you just did, you only needed to remove the 2 screws underneath the dispenser arm. That's not too much of a price to pay to drain the machine, so that was a pretty innovative idea. In theory, there might have been a little water still stuck in the tube between the inlet check valve and the water pump, but it would probably be OK. That water may have actually drained out anyway if the water pump doesn't block it when the pump isn't running. Congratulations on coming up with the idea!
Quick question! My K200 starts dripping when it’s in the preheat. I’ve already done tear down but I’m not seeing an obvious issue. It does have a little water coming back into the air hose that connects to the heating pot. It seems like it’s obvious air intrusion at some place but I can’t figure out where. The only hose that even looks slightly bad is the one that goes from the T fitting to the pressure sensor on the board. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great video. I love the explanation on theory of operation.
I tried some ideas to try to duplicate what you are seeing, but haven't turned up anything yet. Unfortunately I don't have a K200 to experiment with, but I tried blocking some of the tubes on my K90, which should be similar enough for this question except that the water pump is completely different. The only idea I can think of is that when the T fitting gets old and brown, it tends to break down and get weak and delicate, kind of turning powdery or fibrous inside. If that is happening inside your T fitting, it could be creating a blockage. I might suggest proving it by pulling the flexible tubes off of their other ends and blowing through them, but not detaching them from the T fitting for fear of breaking it. The T fitting has a pressure relief valve that you won't be able to blow through however (doesn't open without a lot more pressure than just blowing).
So, where do I get the problem part that most have issue with @23:31, that air pump/air pressure sensor with the built in T-fitting? I can't find it anywhere. Mine crumbled like everyone else's. Thanks
I have one that crumbled as well. If yours is white or yellow color it should be good - if it is brown color, start looking for another one or handle it very carefully. Probably a good idea to handle these carefully regardless. I just happened to have another non-working unit that I robbed one of these from to fix the good Keurig for someone else. The only place I know of to get these exact pieces is off of used units. I don't believe the B-series Keurigs will have them, but I know the K50, K80, K90, and K200 all have this exact part that is no different between them (probably other K-models as well). You can currently get one of these at www.ebay.com/itm/255355127666?hash=item3b745a0772:g:i8AAAOSw1T1h8tNr as one out of a set of used parts. If you want to use just a tee without the specialized pressure relief valve built in, you can check out www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=114557&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3fiPBhCCARIsAFQ8QzXMx_lualpYNjpzkqbE3GqFCAsWUlOPmwEvkFA7UtYXbdESDzica-caAiYwEALw_wcB, which is a tee with 3/16" ID barbed ports (3 of them). I haven't tried these, but they stood out because they are inexpensive FDA approved plastic tees. Just to clarify, at this point in the video it's just talking about a specialized plumbing tee adapter with a pressure release valve that has multiple tubes connected. The air pump and air pressure sensor are elsewhere.
@@luis-ciphermstar6597 Tried Keurig, they do not sell replacement parts. They only offered 20% off new machine. This is a problem for this unit. I believe the heat gets to this fitting and causes it to crumble over time.
I have this model and I keep getting the error Oops! This pod wasn't designed for this brewer when there isn't a pod in it. Just trying to get hot water and I get this error. Is there a fix for that?
Tore mine apart with the help of this video. Great tips. Water was leaking from the bottom. Turns out a plastic tee fitting going into the rekief valve has pretty much disintegrated 😢 Maybe there's a kit on eBay...
You can search for that part on eBay, but the only ones available that I know of are used. Even if the part came from a slightly different Keurig model, the part is usually the same. Otherwise, you could just use a regular tee instead, such as www.amazon.com/Quickun-Fitting-Plastic-Splicer-Adapter/dp/B08LHDKWR9/ref=sr_1_34_sspa?crid=2CU7P6ISAU17I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bVltw_E2jxMTL4MlQzzNZKZIcWc_iY7cpYbH_D7eOrQrPhq2uwle7d7RuLRbZwysKK2A62Dj8s_ll5Ob1QmWZg-qrx5aIfssxNSWc7DcoH31PJXyu4vH_PJHmOF-HUFSmcY-IyuMt0DMpV84OZNN8R64FI_B6xDP1vX2fVcdINF3vPH1UtSBaNU1U5CY85uNUiKJMOLpRstIbOSHpU5TNdjt-Wc4k4duPpDpAXWeb10.1MIRoxDOUbRqrH0EjWh2-F6AKq_TO-y6ly3sGLMW3MU&dib_tag=se&keywords=1%2F8%2Btee%2Bplastic%2Bfood&qid=1728394595&sprefix=1%2F8%2Btee%2Bplastic%2Bfood%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-34-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dA&th=1. This would omit the pressure relief valve, but since the pressure sensor on the circuit board monitors pressure and feeds the information to the processor to shut down the pump if necessary, you could possibly do without the pressure relief valve. Sorry for the long link above. The reason I mentioned that tee is that it is definitely made from food grade plastic.
I've been looking for a complete tear down and disassembly video for either K400 or K500 machines but can't seem to find one. The only ones I can find are the videos that do a partial tear down and they do not include the parts under the handle and the screen. Hopefully one day you can cover either one of those machines. That would be great.
2:40 I did use tape and it worked great. Painters tape wrapped around the end of my drill bit centered onto plug and it slipped right out. Not strong tape but accurate position and voila.
Thank you for your very detailed and helpful video. Using your instructions, I found out mine was leaking due a crack on the top plastic part of the hot water tank☹️.
Sorry I missed this post. If it did freeze, it would be common for it to leak from the tank. In that case, a person could replace it with a used tank from E-Bay, if there's one available. I don't know if anybody has tried re-sealing a tank in that situation with an adhesive of some kind. The adhesive would need to be food safe, and take the heat. SIL-BOND RTV 6500 is a possible adhesive that meets both of those requirements, but I've never tried it and I don't know if it withstands pressure.
If you have the money to burn I suggest simply buying another one and throwing the old/broken/leaking one off the tallest structure in your vicinity. This crap is so overly complex for no reason and was never meant to be maintenanced. I used a sledgehammer, but I thought terminal velocity would have been cooler to see in hindsight.
@@getitsettech1015 Thanks for the teardown! There are others but they're unorganized and a few leave you with more questions than answers, lol. Kind of like the teardown wasn't the primary reason the video was made. The port is almost exclusively used for manufacturing purposes. There's no software available for 3rd party use (atleast theres wasn't in 2018, haven't checked recently).
Very good and informative. However after you do all this work and not break anything, you still can't get the offending part unless you can find an old machine.
Mostly, yes. However Amazon sells this new air pump: www.amazon.com/DANXQ-Newly-Motor-Electric-Diaphragm/dp/B01HIBGZQ6/ref=psdc_2975471011_t1_B07FGFPKNS?th=1. I've never tried it, but a reviewer tried it on a Keurig and it works, but it's not as quiet as the original.
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Best video yet! Instructions are precise and thorough! Thank you
Thanks. I try to be thorough, even if the video tends to get a bit long sometimes.
Very excellent video! I particularly appreciated your tour of the working parts. Like many others, the T fitting linking the air pump, the control board, the pressure release valve and the top of the hot water tank in my Keurig has disintegrated and water was leaking all over the place. As you suggested, I ordered a fitting from US Plastics and will reconnect to bypass the release valve. I have noticed that the back flow from the hot water tank is pretty strong. I hope that once the tubing is connected to the new fitting, the hot water will be impeded from reaching the air pump by the compression of the confined air in the tubing. Thanks for making this video.
Sounds like you understand this pretty well and have a good solution in hand. I agree that the compression of the air in the tubing should protect the water from getting forced into the air pump - as long as the tube remains looped as it goes down beneath the air pump and then heads back up again as it connects to the air pump. This U shape may help keep water out of the pump.
I hope to some day find a Keurig 2.0 machine to play with and fix/modify. Thanks for your thorough disassembly!
You bet!
I have this model froze in my truck now it leaks still working at least now I can get it opened maybe 😊
I hope you can get it apart and maybe there's something simple that can be done. I don't believe there ever has been a simple way to drain the water out for long term storage.
Great video. we gonna attempt taking ours apart. we will also use fiber stick tools they are handy tools no sharp object. Your so patient which is the key.
ONe of the best video's I seen! Great Job!!
Wow, thanks! Hope it helps you.
20:41 how come the last two pieces can’t come off together? Can’t see an issue in them staying together by grabbing the front up and then back. But I am stuck by jumping ahead and not pulling the first of the two away…none of my other tools were working as well as your angle prying tool 😢my finger are shredded so far and will likely not work at all tomorrow.
Now that I have the kuerig apart,how do I figure out where the water was leaking from.many thanks for all your help 🙏
Is it usraly the water pump on my 2.0 keurig that goes?
I got mine to drain by removing the top cover (should have removed the trim ring first - broke a wire) pulling the silicone tube off, and sticking a piece of 1/8" OD tubing up the tube to let air in. A piece of non-tube would have also worked to break the surface tension. The water dribbled out pretty slowly but it all came out while I held the unit upside down over the sink. I soldered the broken wire back together and all seems good.
It sounds like to achieve what you just did, you only needed to remove the 2 screws underneath the dispenser arm. That's not too much of a price to pay to drain the machine, so that was a pretty innovative idea. In theory, there might have been a little water still stuck in the tube between the inlet check valve and the water pump, but it would probably be OK. That water may have actually drained out anyway if the water pump doesn't block it when the pump isn't running. Congratulations on coming up with the idea!
Thank you very much, this helped me figure out what was wrong with mine!
Quick question! My K200 starts dripping when it’s in the preheat. I’ve already done tear down but I’m not seeing an obvious issue. It does have a little water coming back into the air hose that connects to the heating pot. It seems like it’s obvious air intrusion at some place but I can’t figure out where. The only hose that even looks slightly bad is the one that goes from the T fitting to the pressure sensor on the board. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great video. I love the explanation on theory of operation.
I tried some ideas to try to duplicate what you are seeing, but haven't turned up anything yet. Unfortunately I don't have a K200 to experiment with, but I tried blocking some of the tubes on my K90, which should be similar enough for this question except that the water pump is completely different. The only idea I can think of is that when the T fitting gets old and brown, it tends to break down and get weak and delicate, kind of turning powdery or fibrous inside. If that is happening inside your T fitting, it could be creating a blockage. I might suggest proving it by pulling the flexible tubes off of their other ends and blowing through them, but not detaching them from the T fitting for fear of breaking it. The T fitting has a pressure relief valve that you won't be able to blow through however (doesn't open without a lot more pressure than just blowing).
So, where do I get the problem part that most have issue with @23:31, that air pump/air pressure sensor with the built in T-fitting? I can't find it anywhere. Mine crumbled like everyone else's. Thanks
I have one that crumbled as well. If yours is white or yellow color it should be good - if it is brown color, start looking for another one or handle it very carefully. Probably a good idea to handle these carefully regardless. I just happened to have another non-working unit that I robbed one of these from to fix the good Keurig for someone else. The only place I know of to get these exact pieces is off of used units. I don't believe the B-series Keurigs will have them, but I know the K50, K80, K90, and K200 all have this exact part that is no different between them (probably other K-models as well). You can currently get one of these at www.ebay.com/itm/255355127666?hash=item3b745a0772:g:i8AAAOSw1T1h8tNr as one out of a set of used parts. If you want to use just a tee without the specialized pressure relief valve built in, you can check out www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=114557&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3fiPBhCCARIsAFQ8QzXMx_lualpYNjpzkqbE3GqFCAsWUlOPmwEvkFA7UtYXbdESDzica-caAiYwEALw_wcB, which is a tee with 3/16" ID barbed ports (3 of them). I haven't tried these, but they stood out because they are inexpensive FDA approved plastic tees. Just to clarify, at this point in the video it's just talking about a specialized plumbing tee adapter with a pressure release valve that has multiple tubes connected. The air pump and air pressure sensor are elsewhere.
@@getitsettech1015 It's the T do the the pressure spring and it crumbled shooting water out. It's a V2 K200. Thanks for the info.
@@luis-ciphermstar6597 Tried Keurig, they do not sell replacement parts. They only offered 20% off new machine. This is a problem for this unit. I believe the heat gets to this fitting and causes it to crumble over time.
@@ronland6822 Wow, that sucks. I guess I'm SOL then. I'm just gonna buy a Ninja version then. Thanks
I have this model and I keep getting the error Oops! This pod wasn't designed for this brewer when there isn't a pod in it. Just trying to get hot water and I get this error. Is there a fix for that?
Tore mine apart with the help of this video. Great tips.
Water was leaking from the bottom. Turns out a plastic tee fitting going into the rekief valve has pretty much disintegrated 😢
Maybe there's a kit on eBay...
You can search for that part on eBay, but the only ones available that I know of are used. Even if the part came from a slightly different Keurig model, the part is usually the same. Otherwise, you could just use a regular tee instead, such as www.amazon.com/Quickun-Fitting-Plastic-Splicer-Adapter/dp/B08LHDKWR9/ref=sr_1_34_sspa?crid=2CU7P6ISAU17I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bVltw_E2jxMTL4MlQzzNZKZIcWc_iY7cpYbH_D7eOrQrPhq2uwle7d7RuLRbZwysKK2A62Dj8s_ll5Ob1QmWZg-qrx5aIfssxNSWc7DcoH31PJXyu4vH_PJHmOF-HUFSmcY-IyuMt0DMpV84OZNN8R64FI_B6xDP1vX2fVcdINF3vPH1UtSBaNU1U5CY85uNUiKJMOLpRstIbOSHpU5TNdjt-Wc4k4duPpDpAXWeb10.1MIRoxDOUbRqrH0EjWh2-F6AKq_TO-y6ly3sGLMW3MU&dib_tag=se&keywords=1%2F8%2Btee%2Bplastic%2Bfood&qid=1728394595&sprefix=1%2F8%2Btee%2Bplastic%2Bfood%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-34-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dA&th=1. This would omit the pressure relief valve, but since the pressure sensor on the circuit board monitors pressure and feeds the information to the processor to shut down the pump if necessary, you could possibly do without the pressure relief valve.
Sorry for the long link above. The reason I mentioned that tee is that it is definitely made from food grade plastic.
I've been looking for a complete tear down and disassembly video for either K400 or K500 machines but can't seem to find one. The only ones I can find are the videos that do a partial tear down and they do not include the parts under the handle and the screen.
Hopefully one day you can cover either one of those machines. That would be great.
Yes, I'd like to one of these days, but I haven't come across either of those models lately. It's something I'll certainly keep in mind though.
Great video, and great explanation!!!
Hey, thanks! Appreciate it!
I didn't know TJ Miller made coffee videos on RUclips. Nice lol
Very helpful....thank you
2:40 I did use tape and it worked great. Painters tape wrapped around the end of my drill bit centered onto plug and it slipped right out. Not strong tape but accurate position and voila.
Huh. I wouldn't have thought painters tape would be strong enough, but good to know that it worked. Good suggestion!
Thank you for your very detailed and helpful video. Using your instructions, I found out mine was leaking due a crack on the top plastic part of the hot water tank☹️.
Oh man, that's a shame. You might find a tank on E-Bay, if the price is worth it.
@@getitsettech1015 I think I'll just buy another one. Thanks for the suggestion though
My k200 seams to be leaking from top of hot water tank or around there. I have it apart. Is this common? Any suggestions?
It was left in the camper over the winter and something maybe froze?
Sorry I missed this post. If it did freeze, it would be common for it to leak from the tank. In that case, a person could replace it with a used tank from E-Bay, if there's one available. I don't know if anybody has tried re-sealing a tank in that situation with an adhesive of some kind. The adhesive would need to be food safe, and take the heat. SIL-BOND RTV 6500 is a possible adhesive that meets both of those requirements, but I've never tried it and I don't know if it withstands pressure.
If you have the money to burn I suggest simply buying another one and throwing the old/broken/leaking one off the tallest structure in your vicinity. This crap is so overly complex for no reason and was never meant to be maintenanced. I used a sledgehammer, but I thought terminal velocity would have been cooler to see in hindsight.
To each his own, I guess. Terminal velocity would be hard to achieve unless you tossed it from at least 10 stories high ;-)
Some of us are pretty handy and don't want to spend another $100-200 on something we can fix ourselves.
The jack on the bottom is a connection port for software install/update and firmware access.
Thanks. I had considered that possibility, but I didn't have any proof of it, so I just let it go.
@@getitsettech1015 Thanks for the teardown! There are others but they're unorganized and a few leave you with more questions than answers, lol. Kind of like the teardown wasn't the primary reason the video was made.
The port is almost exclusively used for manufacturing purposes. There's no software available for 3rd party use (atleast theres wasn't in 2018, haven't checked recently).
Thanks for the encouragement and letting me know about the port. Good to know.
too bad it doesn't say why water is always left inside somewhere
Wish i had watched this video first, before breaking off two tabs...
Very good and informative. However after you do all this work and not break anything, you still can't get the offending part unless you can find an old machine.
Mostly, yes. However Amazon sells this new air pump: www.amazon.com/DANXQ-Newly-Motor-Electric-Diaphragm/dp/B01HIBGZQ6/ref=psdc_2975471011_t1_B07FGFPKNS?th=1. I've never tried it, but a reviewer tried it on a Keurig and it works, but it's not as quiet as the original.