More shocking than the brightness difference is the light quality. You start with an obnoxious blazing green, and some overgrown shrubs in a vacant lot. Then you switch to something that makes the forest makes look like a forest (R9050). Then something that brings everything alive (CRI 98, R9080). Suddenly the earth is rich leaf litter instead of dessecated dust. The trees have life and texture instead of looking like old fence-posts. You can practically imagine Bambi stepping out to say hello.
I got my first Hank light a few weeks ago (D1 5700K B35AM), and I'm very happy with it but those fins near the bezel are very sharp, and so is the lanyard groove in the tail cap. I wish Hank made a single emitter narrow angle TIR D4 style light.
It is a standard in Hank lights unfortunately. Many flashlights have the same issue where user can feel some sharp edges near cooling fins or lanyard attachments
8000 lumens? Hank has it at 5000. Is it just under rate and what kind of throw numbers did you get? Thanks for the video, I always research before I purchase my flashlights. My new D3AA from Hank is on its way and for my next torch I was considering the D1K with the SFN60.
It is linear with voltage readout, thus stil giving good sustainable output. With high thermal limit it would be even better with much less powerful emitter. I would go for it my friend 👍
So do you think the SFN60 is worth the short runtime turbo? I have a d4k mule with all 519a and it gets way too hot too fast i kinda regret getting it.
depends on the max amp discharge of the battery used, sfn60 can handle like 35 amps and make 8000 lumens. hank was being modest because some ppl would use low amp batteries and complain that they aren't making 8000 lumens.
I got the xhp70.3 mao 3000k because the sfn60 only lasts like 30 seconds on turbo then it drastically steps down lower than the xhp70.3. I was thinking about getting a 2nd in SFN60 though so i can compare myself.
More shocking than the brightness difference is the light quality. You start with an obnoxious blazing green, and some overgrown shrubs in a vacant lot. Then you switch to something that makes the forest makes look like a forest (R9050). Then something that brings everything alive (CRI 98, R9080). Suddenly the earth is rich leaf litter instead of dessecated dust. The trees have life and texture instead of looking like old fence-posts. You can practically imagine Bambi stepping out to say hello.
I got my first Hank light a few weeks ago (D1 5700K B35AM), and I'm very happy with it but those fins near the bezel are very sharp, and so is the lanyard groove in the tail cap.
I wish Hank made a single emitter narrow angle TIR D4 style light.
It is a standard in Hank lights unfortunately. Many flashlights have the same issue where user can feel some sharp edges near cooling fins or lanyard attachments
8000 lumens? Hank has it at 5000. Is it just under rate and what kind of throw numbers did you get? Thanks for the video, I always research before I purchase my flashlights. My new D3AA from Hank is on its way and for my next torch I was considering the D1K with the SFN60.
I got the D1 sfn60. It’s an absolute monster!!!!
It surely is, I am glad you got your hands on this beast! Be careful with the heat and have fun ;)
The Emisar are my favourite led lights by far.
Best for Enthusiasts, hands down 😅
It's good to know that the light had been thinned out. Still send pretty good though!
Great video. What color are the other flashlights (D1, D4K, and DT8K)? Looks kind of inbetween cyan and dark grey.
It is all dark grey. For Cyan vs Grey watch my M44 video ;)
Whats the best LED fot it in case of throw, and brigthness? SFT40 VS SBT90.2 VS SFN60?
For this combo SBT90.2 is unbeaten
@@FlashlightEnthusiast awesome thanks
Do you think that with SFT40 or Osram W2 the light would have similar sustained outputs?
The driver is buck-boost like the Lume1 or linear?
It is linear with voltage readout, thus stil giving good sustainable output. With high thermal limit it would be even better with much less powerful emitter. I would go for it my friend 👍
Great review Michael! I still don’t have a emisar or noctigon. I may need to change that soon
Thank you and definitely check them out 😁 I am looking intensely at new Meteor from Hank. Maybe Osram W1 and Nichia 519A combo...? We'll see. Cheers
So do you think the SFN60 is worth the short runtime turbo? I have a d4k mule with all 519a and it gets way too hot too fast i kinda regret getting it.
Well, it definitely is fun to use, however I would not pick that option for practical reasons. XHP70.3 Hi or even SBT90.2 should be more sensible ;)
Intl outdoors says that led should only mske like 5000lm do you know whats going on there
depends on the max amp discharge of the battery used, sfn60 can handle like 35 amps and make 8000 lumens. hank was being modest because some ppl would use low amp batteries and complain that they aren't making 8000 lumens.
I thought mine were DOA. I put protected 21700s in and nothing.
Then I put shorter protected 18650s in and works fine.
Yes, these need short, unprotected cells
Nice review 😈
Thank you ;)
I got the xhp70.3 mao 3000k because the sfn60 only lasts like 30 seconds on turbo then it drastically steps down lower than the xhp70.3. I was thinking about getting a 2nd in SFN60 though so i can compare myself.
Probably more reasonable choice with still great combination beam and quite a lot of light. SFN60 version is insane ;)
@@FlashlightEnthusiastI have a Haikalite hk05 it has 5 SFN60's. 30k lumens. Crazy bright but gets hot instantly and also big and heavy.
Hello, can you tell how 3000K SFN60 weaker than 5500K?
It should produce around 5k lm compared to 8k lm for CW version
@@FlashlightEnthusiast ok, thanks. I'll order right now))
7 seconds are not very impressive
Over-hyped.
Construction isn't good, just like convoy.