@estcstkevin Hi, the cone isn't glued, the biscuit is glued to the cone. Maybe that's what you meant. This just keeps it centered on the top of the cone and makes sure there is no buzz or rattle between the biscuit and the cone. There usually isn't but all the originals were glued like this, as are the newer NRP's.
Hi, many people including myself feel the newer (post 2008) HOT ROD cones are a better sounding cones. In the cone in this video, this one is actually fatigued or beginning to crush downward so it should be replaced regardless. When it starts to sag downward, the action will drop as the biscuit/ saddle sinks down with the cone. Hope that helps. Best, Len
Lenny - First off THANK YOU! Very informative and simple at the same time I have 2 resophonic resoglass guitars one from early 60's ... a red National the other is an Airline. The red National has better tuners but the cone rattles something awful and actually altho only an acoustic it feeds back in certain areas of the neck . is this due to no glue or cone fatigue or BOTH?
Its an old thread. But I was thinking maybe a bit of heat *e.g. blow dryer* might ease biscuit removal. Also, even if no one would see it, I'd align the biscuit with the cone's pretty little logos. Because I'm a bit OCD. I see StewMac has some cones biscuits spiders
@nationalguitarplayer Hi, It doesn't HAVE to have it, but it's was done that why on all the vintage ones and is done today by National ResoPhonic. As long as theres no rattle or buzz, it's not essential to have it glued. Cheers Lenny
Why the slight tilt, and don’t you have to check the sounding length of the strings so that the 12th fret and the 1st harmonic are identical across all strings?
hey Lenny, have you done anything with setting up a National Hotplate, I have one but it causes buzzing on F# notes, strange but true? Also how close should the pickup be to the strings?
@DatBluesGuy Hi, no, I'm not RAISING the action, what I'm saying is rotate the cone/biscuit in it's place so the bridge has a slight angle from left to right, like an acoustic guitar saddle has. That's nothing to do w the string height, just the angle of the saddle from left to right. Does that make sense? If not email me. Cheers Lenny
When everything is in place as at the end of the video, I tune the lowest and highest string, to check if the intonation of both strings is acceptable (1st harmonic is the same as the tone when the 12th fret is pressed). If not, I loosen both strings and tilt the cone a little and repeat the procedure. Is this just to satify my OCD, or does it make sense in your opinion? Thanks for the video!
Michael Petersen cheap cones can benefit from a polish with a metal polish like autosol just have to remember the alloy is thin but can handle being polished ,if replacing cones with a new one make sure the cone height is the same
Any time l take a screw out of its original hole and hard coming out of the wood l will reinstall the screw with a little bit of candle wax crumb on thread. Boy they go back in without all that drag on the threads.l also do this with new pilot hole and screw.
HI There, I use regular wood glue, nothing special. The originals always used glue, and National Resophonic nowadays also use the same glue. If it comes undone, it still makes like a form that holds the biscuit in place and centered. Check out my Bench Talk #4 to see a Style O that I took apart and was unglued. Cheers and thanks for watching. Lenny
Short, accurate and articulate. Thank you!
@estcstkevin Hi, the cone isn't glued, the biscuit is glued to the cone. Maybe that's what you meant. This just keeps it centered on the top of the cone and makes sure there is no buzz or rattle between the biscuit and the cone. There usually isn't but all the originals were glued like this, as are the newer NRP's.
Hi, many people including myself feel the newer (post 2008) HOT ROD cones are a better sounding cones. In the cone in this video, this one is actually fatigued or beginning to crush downward so it should be replaced regardless. When it starts to sag downward, the action will drop as the biscuit/ saddle sinks down with the cone. Hope that helps. Best, Len
Lenny very interesting as usual very helpful as well !! do you have any video of you doing the treatment on a tricone as well id love to watch........
Excellent lesson. Thanks very much.
Very useful. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Lenny - First off THANK YOU! Very informative and simple at the same time I have 2 resophonic resoglass guitars one from early 60's ... a red National the other is an Airline. The red National has better tuners but the cone rattles something awful and actually altho only an acoustic it feeds back in certain areas of the neck . is this due to no glue or cone fatigue or BOTH?
What about tricones; How does the t-bridge connect to the cones? Screws? Glue? Do they just snap on?
What type of glue to use here?
lenny, what type of glue did you use to glue biscuit to cone. was it a wood glue, plumbing glue ect. thanks for showing how to change out cone. james
Looks to me like Titebond 3 wood glue.
Can you use the same technique on a Spider Resonator? If not, Is there a video for that?
very interresting, thanks.
Its an old thread. But I was thinking maybe a bit of heat *e.g. blow dryer* might ease biscuit removal. Also, even if no one would see it, I'd align the biscuit with the cone's pretty little logos. Because I'm a bit OCD. I see StewMac has some cones biscuits spiders
@nationalguitarplayer Hi, It doesn't HAVE to have it, but it's was done that why on all the vintage ones and is done today by National ResoPhonic. As long as theres no rattle or buzz, it's not essential to have it glued.
Cheers Lenny
Why the slight tilt, and don’t you have to check the sounding length of the strings so that the 12th fret and the 1st harmonic are identical across all strings?
hey Lenny, have you done anything with setting up a National Hotplate, I have one but it causes buzzing on F# notes, strange but true? Also how close should the pickup be to the strings?
@ezhikg Hi, I used Titebond wood glue, but any decent wood glue will be fine. You're not using much at all.
Cheers, Lenny
Thanks, Bill
@DatBluesGuy Hi, no, I'm not RAISING the action, what I'm saying is rotate the cone/biscuit in it's place so the bridge has a slight angle from left to right, like an acoustic guitar saddle has. That's nothing to do w the string height, just the angle of the saddle from left to right. Does that make sense? If not email me. Cheers Lenny
Intonation
When everything is in place as at the end of the video, I tune the lowest and highest string, to check if the intonation of both strings is acceptable (1st harmonic is the same as the tone when the 12th fret is pressed). If not, I loosen both strings and tilt the cone a little and repeat the procedure. Is this just to satify my OCD, or does it make sense in your opinion? Thanks for the video!
Very helpful thanks
is there a way to hotrod a cheap biscuit cone to make it sound better...???
Michael Petersen cheap cones can benefit from a polish with a metal polish like autosol just have to remember the alloy is thin but can handle being polished ,if replacing cones with a new one make sure the cone height is the same
thx alot :)
Any time l take a screw out of its original hole and hard coming out of the wood l will reinstall the screw with a little bit of candle wax crumb on thread. Boy they go back in without all that drag on the threads.l also do this with new pilot hole and screw.
Whats the benefit of changing the cone ?
David Allen what is the benefit of changing strings on a guitar?
AS YOU CAN SEE!!!
HI There, I use regular wood glue, nothing special. The originals always used glue, and National Resophonic nowadays also use the same glue. If it comes undone, it still makes like a form that holds the biscuit in place and centered. Check out my Bench Talk #4 to see a Style O that I took apart and was unglued. Cheers and thanks for watching. Lenny
as you can see...
Bobby McGee's bathtub ;p