I have just about given up on conicals and went back to round ball. Too often the conical is just a little crooked on loading and I didn't like the occasional flyer I believed was caused by this. By the way, I really enjoy your approach to making these videos. Very easy to understand and thorough. Hope you continue making them.
I have not seen any indication of the Johnson and Dow bullet loading crooked or experienced any fliers with it. But it is the only conical bullet I have tried. Good to know you enjoy the videos. I hope to get some more done this spring and summer.
@William Sepessy A 200 grain conical that will work in an unmodified C&B revolver is the Lee 200 grain round nose. Shoots very accurately and loads straight due to the tapered band design. This is not a historically correct bullet and is not meant to be used for making revolver combustible cartridges. But it will shoot very well and always groups much tighter in revolvers than round balls for me. I hot dip lube them in 2 parts beeswax to 1 part coconut oil using a screen basket to dip about 60 at a time. Let the bullets heat by sitting in the lube for 10 seconds or so and the lube coat will be very thin with grease grooves full of lube. The pre-greased bullets are seated directly on the powder and eliminate the need for over powder wads or grease. This speeds loose loading by flask considerably and keeps the bore incredibly clean shot to shot. I have all three Lee molds (.36 Navy, .44 Army & .44 Ruger) and the bullets work superbly out of all revolvers I've fired them thru. Lee .44 Army mold : leeprecision.com/mold-d-c-450-200-1r.html
Well well my old Ji-ji seems you knocked this one clean out of the ballpark lol. I bought one of these 1858 pietta New Army. 44 cal. a while back n just barely got around to ordering the "Taylor's Company conversion cylinder" but haven't received it yet. I did order n received, the Colt .45 long rifle shaved tip cowboy ammo though. Which I must say was a little hard to find n very expensive - $69.00 per box of 50 + tax + an additional $19.99 for the fellow at the local gunshop for the "inshop pickup" (required in California). So yeah doing what you've done here, although not easy, would definitely be the way to go. Ok Sir. thank you for the video n again - job well done .
Outstanding video! Info straight to the point with minimum fuss! VERY well done. Thank you! FWIW, I allow the bullet to heat to lube temp by holding in the lube for just a few seconds longer, and the lube coat is much thinner on the bullet. Also I use Swiss Null B black powder (very fine 5Fg granulation) in my combustibles, 22 grains under a 216 gr conical for 940+ fps from a Uberti Remington Army 8" barrel. The 5Fg is pretty close to the "Hazard Cartridge Powder" provided to revolver combustible cartridge makers in the 19th Century based on my research. Happy, and safe shooting.
Thanks Kindly and Many Blessings and Good Shootin too! That’s a Lovely Remington! I will buy one in the future! Your modifications did very well and very well done too! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Excellent. I've had my Remington 1858 by Pietta for over 20 years. It was my first handgun I bought when I was 18. I later bought and own two Colts (Pietta) which I love too. Those J^D conicals are a real game changer. Oddly enough, my Remington 1858 made in the mid 1990s did not require any modification. Plenty of room and loads smooth. I will try opening up the cap ports as suggested and plan to roll cartridges as well. Excellent information and a great presentation. Nice work.
Nice to see someone posting actual information rather than clickbait. I used to have ( correct me if I’m wrong) a Roger’s and Spencer made in Spain I think. It was the best BP revolver I ever owned. Thanks for the post.
If you want to shoot conicals in a 58 Remington NMA buy the Lee 450-200 1R mold. That conical was designed for the 58 remington. The reason he had to modify his gun was because he was using the johnson and dow conical.
That’s not true!!! Yes for Uberti but no go for pietta. More importantly it’s pretty clear it could easily fit the Johnson and Dowel by the gap. I don’t know where your getting this information from?
@@danielcurtis1434 The fact that I own both Pietta and Uberti models of the 1858 Remington NMA, 1860 Colt Army, and the 1851 Colt Navy. All of them are in .44 caliber. I have the Lee 450-200 1R mold and I bought the J&D conicals. I am well aware of what I am taking about. You however, are living in Brandon land if you honestly think what you posted. With my Lee mold all both brands and all models will fit that projectile unmodified. The J&D conicals will not fit without modification. And my mold specifically says on the side of the box "designed for the 58 Remington". You have no idea what you are talking about.
@@historichomestead when was your Pietta made??? Cuz all piettas are designed for round balls today although I’ve heard they changed sometime around the 2000s??? My guess is you got lucky with tolerances. Cuz the Lee mold barely doesn’t fit my pietta. Basically my protocol is to tip the bullet to the side to clear the first rammer lip, then realign and continue. Every few come out with a rebated base that will leave room to clear. However these are undersized often warped examples. I wish the Lee mold had a better base (more rebated). Now do you “know what I’m talking about”??? (You do t have to take this personal)
In my mind, conicals are the way to go. Not saying round ball is no good, but paper cartridges were that main load in the 1860s, and conicals were the only projectiles used in them so far as I've seen. The Uberti Remingtons are better suited to conicals right out of the box, and the Uberti Colts are at least closer to being able to use them. Now of course it depends on the conical. Some of the modern bullet designs that I use (see my channel) require a little more modification than does the standard J&D bullet shown there. Still my Uberti Remingtons take them without mods.
I use a 50/50 beeswax and shortening lube for all my muzzleloading applications. I have found that adjusting the mix makes more difference than the temp of the pot. I use slightly less wax and slightly more fat for pre-lubing Minie balls for my CW .58 cal Enfield musket. It gives a nice thin coat, but fills the grooves completely. This is also my cold weather mix for C+B revolver chamber mouths. When the temp is in the 40's or below, less wax keeps it pliable, while 50/50 gets stiff and crumbly, and can fall away from the front of the ball during recoil.
Nice job with everything sir. You did a great job modifying the cylinder to wear your capper fits perfectly. Those bullets you made look great. Pietta does not make these copies true to form. All of the colts have to be modified in order to take conicals the Remington's too. They are decent quality but for some reason they don't make them exactly right. I do like pietta and uberti as well. Interesting video. Thank you sir.
I've been thinking of getting one of these, I really wish they could out the box being able to fit conicals. Even if it most likely only use round ball I'd still like the option. Especially for paper cartridges.
They do. I have an unmodified Pietta 58 remington. I bought a 450-200 1R lee mold and it casts perfect conicals. That conical was specifically designed for the 58 Remington NMA. Trust me, get that mold and you wont have to modify it at all.
Kind Thanks and a Lovely job on your modifications! I have one like yours that a 1995 manufacture date. It seems to load easier than the new models I’ve seen. I’ll see when I try more conical rounds. Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I've been casting J&D bullets for my Pieta New Model Army (Sheriff). I also did some relief work on mine. I have ha a hard time getting my lube to be thin. I used nitrated coffee filters. I had a difficult time loading them and I think it's b/c I used too much powder. I'll try again with less and also a thinner / hotter lube. I used 1:1 bee's wax and olive oil. I LOVE the bullet and fired a few cylinders just hand loading with lubed wads. Much more fun than ball. Feels like a real old time man stopper.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 many people will only use black powder and if you absolutely must, Swiss 3 or 4f is the way to go. If you don’t mind a small break with tradition, you could also try Triple 7 substitute powder. It’s just a bit more energetic than Swiss, which is in turn the most potent real black powder available today. Very nice video, clear, concise and fun too! Thanks for taking the time to make it!
What I've seen recently about lube coating thickness is that holding the bullet in the lube longer -- to let the lead warm up by contact with the hot wax -- will allow the initial "hardened on contact" lube to partially remelt, leaving less on the bullet. I've also read, some time ago, that you can adjust the proportion of beeswax to tallow to compensate hardness for temperature -- when expecting warmer conditions, use more beeswax and less tallow, and vice versa for cooler days at the range.
A solution I had to this without modifying the weapon is to use slightly heeled bullets and fit them down into the chamber just enough to clear the ramrod I didn't even realize most people were having these problems until I started seeing videos on it.
Very nice video and mod of the Remington 1858, I also have this pietta replica and it’s a nice shooter, never tried conicals in it just round ball but I’m sure the conicals hit harder and maybe even better accuracy
The heavy wax coating is because the bullets are cool. If you let the bullets set in the hot wax a little longer, the bullet will heat up a bit and the end result will be a thinner coating.
Thank you for this great video. I have to ask, if the gains are worth the work. I have decent accuracy with round balls. However if I were hunting, I’d say the extra energy provided by conicals would be desired. My cap and ball pistols are just range queens, and I use them shooting blanks for re-enactments.
The mods I made were easy to do, it was done in an afternoon start to finish. I had known about it for decades before I decided to do it to my revolver. I used that cylinder loading press for a long time shooting at the range. A couple of reasons why I waited so long to do it; I had experimented with the Johnston & Dow bullets and was very pleased with the improved accuracy and penetration those gave. Once I decided to switch to those from round ball, I thought I might as well make the modifications so I could use the revolver in the field, away from a loading bench and the press. The other reason is; I had finished all the load development work with all my other guns and the revolver was the last one I had not done a through load work-up. I simply finally got around to it. There are some conical style bullets which can be loaded in these revolvers without modifications and those mods are not necessary for those bullets or round-balls. Was it worth the time and effort? If you are only shooting round ball, I would say no. It was absolutely worth my time to make the revolver easier to load in the field with paper cartridges and that particular bullet. I would recommend the mods on the back of the cylinder even for round ball loads only because it is so much easier to use a capper. Over all, the mods make it much easier to load the revolver with that particular bullet and does not change the way the revolver functions with any other loadings I might want to use. It isn't necessary, but I would do it again with any Remington revolver I may get in the future.
It's a bit late, but you might try warming the bullet a bit before dipping. The cold surface of the bullet will cause the lube to solidify more quickly, making a thicker coating.
When using air gun slugs make sure that they are a tight fit because a loose fit can not seal the cylinder completely and can cause it to chain fire ( allow burning powder to enter the front of the cylinder and get past loose fitting projectiles setting off chambers not yet in battery causing the weapon to explode in the hand) the projectiles should be tight enough to leave a ring of lead shaved off the projectiles when forced into the chamber leaving zero space for anything to get past the front of the projectiles into the chamber
You can preheat the bullets on a hot pad at a low setting and they won’t retain as much wax. or, you can preheat them and pre-lube them prior to seating them in the paper tube .
Are you concerned that you’re unable to set a “chain fire preventer patch in the chamber over the nose of the bullet? Thank you for producing this RUclips. Very informational.
No. If your caps fit the nipples properly and the ball or bullet is the correct size you will not have a chain fire. Lube is just to keep the fouling soft.
Eras Gone now sells a paper cartrige kit for larger powder charges....also they sell a mold for the Kerr bullet which has the driving band higher and a longer heel than the J&D bullet which allow the bullet to seat deeper during loading
@robertbooth7396 if the bullet is the correct size it will seal the chamber and prevent chain fires...the job of the lubed patch between bullet and powdercharge or the lube smeared into chamber mouths us to soften powder fouling and prevent leading barrel
Hi buddy .. your big gun is very nice and you did a good job..nice , very nice.. it looks great in the hand of an old-timer like you.. I guess we are the same age and we like such guns, those guns like us too.. new technological semi-automatic plastic weapons look like "fake" and "toys" next to these weapons. No one should blame us, we have habits from the past..😉😉😁
Overall, I'd like congratulate you on your very comprehensive covering of this very special subject. Firstly, please allow me to thank you for the service you are providing for preserving our rich history and heritage, I'm greatly appreciative. Having said this I'll implore you to put a less "substantial" and epic intro music ... really it's TOO MUCH, forgive me for saying so. Secondly the fact that you did not even briefly mention the how-to process of bluing detracted from your video. I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one delighted to see you cover bluing in another video, I believe the subject deserves a dedicated video. Liked (with provisos) and unconditionally subscribed, many thanks!
Very true that Pietta didn’t intend on conicals being used. The loading plunger isn’t shaped at all of tipped lead. Round nose works just fine, I use .450 johnson&dow 200gr RN and they fit tight as my alibi and the plunger of the loading lever doesn’t damage the round nose. Sure they sit just crooked till ya get them past the frame into alignment with the loading lever plunger.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 much appreciated. I found some with both a 25gr powder charge and a 30gr. now just to justify the cost of the revolver and supplies..😂
Best? For which purpose? Stainless would be easiest to clean and less prone to rust and corrosion but not historical. Blued steel is historically correct for a Remington or Colt and studier than a brass frame. Brass frames are correct only on some brands of pistols used by the Southern forces, are not as sturdy as steel but fine for plinking with lighter loads. 36 caliber makes for a lighter (quicker) pistol. 44 caliber packs more punch if you are interested in hunting. Hope that helps to answer your question.
A very nice, well presented video. Still, I will stay with roundballs. I might be wrong about to conical a having an advantage, but I have not found ine, nor seen proof they either load better or perform better.
Did you consider widening at least one of the safety notches on the rear of the cylinder so the hammer can seat fully? I did that to only one notch on mine because all the notches were too narrow from the factory.
Honestly I have conversion kits in all my reproduction models. Now my antiques, of which I've very few, I of course keep all original and only one I've ever shot only a HANDFUL of times. But as far as reproductions go, heck with it, convert to modern case ammo
Speaking to conical bullets. Would you be interested in testing some custom test conicals I have worked to put together. I currently have 5 different working .31 caliber, two that work in the 1863 Remington with no modifications and all five work in the 1849. Four .36 caliber. And for the .44 caliber I have put together four designs for the Remington/small colt, and four designs geared for the ruger/Walker.
I do not. Google, and you may find a source. Stores barely carry a few round ball these days. The Johnson & Dow are only available if you buy a propitiatory mold and cast your own.
OK, you've made your mods - well done. Now, can you still seat round balls sufficiently? Or does the ram fall short of a full seating depth? That's my reluctance to do these mods. I figure I can load the cylinder and have a second cylinder loaded for a back up... and not affect round ball loading... but maybe this works fine?
I don't know about that. They can shoot OK if loaded properly. I agree they could be made better without much more expense. But people will make the cheapest crap that they can sell.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 I was thinking that improved grouping was because of a hollow base bullet, but that does not appear to be so in the video...
It is a solid base. I think the improved accuracy is due to the longer bearing surface and the bullet diameter being large enough to fill the grooves in the bore making a better seal. The bullet I recovered from the water jug penetration tests showed that.
I cast them. Lee makes the mold but you can only get them from eras gone bullets. The bullet measures .465 at the grease ring and .440 at the heel. It weighs 226 grains. Check out the site at erasgonebullets.com They offer different style bullet molds, this one is the Johnston & Dow bullet.
Conicals are heavier, have a longer surface in contact with rifling, and ballistically superior to round ball. But they are a latter development than a patched round ball.
What you need is way less beeswax should be more like 80 20 That is why the thick coating the beeswax is hardening. I will stick to my 22grains and round balls all day long! The cartridges are way to much work for no gain in my opinion. Been in this game 55 years old habits hard to break lol.
I've been wondering why no one modifies those old guns to make them better.. I think most people that own them just want that old gun feeling.. Personally I'd modify the grips to fit my hand just right, put adjustable sights on it so you have a rear sight and can actually adjust them instead of having to do Kentucky windage.. and making a smoother/lighter trigger pull would be another possibility. But then I'm a hot rodder and custom paint guy.. leaving anything stock is boring to me.
Trigger work was the first thing I did after I bought the gun along with polishing internal parts. I have replaced the front sight with a dovetail sight for windage adjustment. Rules for some competitions allow only one dovetail sight and no adjustable rear sights. Staying inside the rules and keeping the original look is important to some.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 and see I don't care about competition, I just want one to shoot for fun.. and maybe carry if I can't get a CCW.. better than a knife after all.
Could you not just buy another rammer,modify it for your conical bullets and swap rammer out for the type of round you’re going to shoot? The mod to the frame is good because it allows you to shoot different types of conical bullets.
Remingtons idea was..you.carried multy cylinders .loaded..and ready to use..not actuly .using the lever...its in Remingtons manual that Came with each Gun..
Listen there's absolutely nothing wrong with ball ammo. When you hit a human being with a hunk of lead flying damn near the speed of sound belive me, it doesn't matter what shape the lead is lol
Nothing wrong with round-ball. My pistol is just more accurate with the bullet, it penetrates better and hits the gongs harder. I have no interest in using black powder for personal defense.
I have just about given up on conicals and went back to round ball. Too often the conical is just a little crooked on loading and I didn't like the occasional flyer I believed was caused by this. By the way, I really enjoy your approach to making these videos. Very easy to understand and thorough. Hope you continue making them.
I have not seen any indication of the Johnson and Dow bullet loading crooked or experienced any fliers with it. But it is the only conical bullet I have tried. Good to know you enjoy the videos. I hope to get some more done this spring and summer.
@William Sepessy A 200 grain conical that will work in an unmodified C&B revolver is the Lee 200 grain round nose. Shoots very accurately and loads straight due to the tapered band design. This is not a historically correct bullet and is not meant to be used for making revolver combustible cartridges. But it will shoot very well and always groups much tighter in revolvers than round balls for me. I hot dip lube them in 2 parts beeswax to 1 part coconut oil using a screen basket to dip about 60 at a time. Let the bullets heat by sitting in the lube for 10 seconds or so and the lube coat will be very thin with grease grooves full of lube. The pre-greased bullets are seated directly on the powder and eliminate the need for over powder wads or grease. This speeds loose loading by flask considerably and keeps the bore incredibly clean shot to shot. I have all three Lee molds (.36 Navy, .44 Army & .44 Ruger) and the bullets work superbly out of all revolvers I've fired them thru. Lee .44 Army mold : leeprecision.com/mold-d-c-450-200-1r.html
Are you using lubed wads or grease? That probably has more to do with fliers than the nose of the conical being a little off centric.
To each his own, use what feels comfortable and acceptable to you. Especially if what you currently use is accurate for you as the shooter.
Well well my old Ji-ji seems you knocked this one clean out of the ballpark lol.
I bought one of these 1858 pietta New Army. 44 cal. a while back n just barely got around to ordering the "Taylor's Company conversion cylinder" but haven't received it yet. I did order n received, the Colt .45 long rifle shaved tip cowboy ammo though. Which I must say was a little hard to find n very expensive - $69.00 per box of 50 + tax + an additional $19.99 for the fellow at the local gunshop for the "inshop pickup" (required in California). So yeah doing what you've done here, although not easy, would definitely be the way to go.
Ok Sir. thank you for the video n again - job well done .
Outstanding video! Info straight to the point with minimum fuss! VERY well done. Thank you! FWIW, I allow the bullet to heat to lube temp by holding in the lube for just a few seconds longer, and the lube coat is much thinner on the bullet. Also I use Swiss Null B black powder (very fine 5Fg granulation) in my combustibles, 22 grains under a 216 gr conical for 940+ fps from a Uberti Remington Army 8" barrel. The 5Fg is pretty close to the "Hazard Cartridge Powder" provided to revolver combustible cartridge makers in the 19th Century based on my research. Happy, and safe shooting.
Thank you for your comments and sharing your tips!
Been looking at percussion revolvers for a few weeks now. Very cool that you make your own paper cartridges.
Thanks Kindly and Many Blessings and Good Shootin too! That’s a Lovely Remington! I will buy one in the future! Your modifications did very well and very well done too! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Excellent. I've had my Remington 1858 by Pietta for over 20 years. It was my first handgun I bought when I was 18. I later bought and own two Colts (Pietta) which I love too. Those J^D conicals are a real game changer. Oddly enough, my Remington 1858 made in the mid 1990s did not require any modification. Plenty of room and loads smooth. I will try opening up the cap ports as suggested and plan to roll cartridges as well.
Excellent information and a great presentation. Nice work.
Thank you
Very informative, Thank you for spending the time to put all of this out there.
My pleasure!
Nice to see someone posting actual information rather than clickbait. I used to have ( correct me if I’m wrong) a Roger’s and Spencer made in Spain I think. It was the best BP revolver I ever owned. Thanks for the post.
Thank you
Very cool video, great job. Thanks. 👌🤠👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent video! Im glad I found this channel
Thank you.
If you want to shoot conicals in a 58 Remington NMA buy the Lee 450-200 1R mold. That conical was designed for the 58 remington. The reason he had to modify his gun was because he was using the johnson and dow conical.
Correct. The Johnson and Dow bullet happens to be the most accurate in my revolver and that is why I want to use it.
That’s not true!!! Yes for Uberti but no go for pietta. More importantly it’s pretty clear it could easily fit the Johnson and Dowel by the gap.
I don’t know where your getting this information from?
@@danielcurtis1434 The fact that I own both Pietta and Uberti models of the 1858 Remington NMA, 1860 Colt Army, and the 1851 Colt Navy. All of them are in .44 caliber. I have the Lee 450-200 1R mold and I bought the J&D conicals. I am well aware of what I am taking about. You however, are living in Brandon land if you honestly think what you posted. With my Lee mold all both brands and all models will fit that projectile unmodified. The J&D conicals will not fit without modification. And my mold specifically says on the side of the box "designed for the 58 Remington". You have no idea what you are talking about.
@@historichomestead when was your Pietta made??? Cuz all piettas are designed for round balls today although I’ve heard they changed sometime around the 2000s??? My guess is you got lucky with tolerances. Cuz the Lee mold barely doesn’t fit my pietta. Basically my protocol is to tip the bullet to the side to clear the first rammer lip, then realign and continue. Every few come out with a rebated base that will leave room to clear. However these are undersized often warped examples. I wish the Lee mold had a better base (more rebated).
Now do you “know what I’m talking about”??? (You do t have to take this personal)
@@historichomestead also when did you buy your mold? They could have upgraded it? My pietta was around 2017 and the mold was around 2018.
In my mind, conicals are the way to go. Not saying round ball is no good, but paper cartridges were that main load in the 1860s, and conicals were the only projectiles used in them so far as I've seen. The Uberti Remingtons are better suited to conicals right out of the box, and the Uberti Colts are at least closer to being able to use them. Now of course it depends on the conical. Some of the modern bullet designs that I use (see my channel) require a little more modification than does the standard J&D bullet shown there. Still my Uberti Remingtons take them without mods.
I use a 50/50 beeswax and shortening lube for all my muzzleloading applications. I have found that adjusting the mix makes more difference than the temp of the pot. I use slightly less wax and slightly more fat for pre-lubing Minie balls for my CW .58 cal Enfield musket. It gives a nice thin coat, but fills the grooves completely. This is also my cold weather mix for C+B revolver chamber mouths. When the temp is in the 40's or below, less wax keeps it pliable, while 50/50 gets stiff and crumbly, and can fall away from the front of the ball during recoil.
Very, very well done. I'm now off to the garage to modify mine. Your video sure answered a lot of questions.
Glad it helped. Let us know how it works out for you.
Excellent video , great information !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video!
Thanks!
Nice job with everything sir. You did a great job modifying the cylinder to wear your capper fits perfectly. Those bullets you made look great. Pietta does not make these copies true to form. All of the colts have to be modified in order to take conicals the Remington's too. They are decent quality but for some reason they don't make them exactly right. I do like pietta and uberti as well. Interesting video. Thank you sir.
Excellent video I love the intro and the whole video is very professional and informative.
Thank you!
I've been thinking of getting one of these, I really wish they could out the box being able to fit conicals. Even if it most likely only use round ball I'd still like the option. Especially for paper cartridges.
Uberti pistols might be more compatible with paper cartridges
They do. I have an unmodified Pietta 58 remington. I bought a 450-200 1R lee mold and it casts perfect conicals. That conical was specifically designed for the 58 Remington NMA. Trust me, get that mold and you wont have to modify it at all.
Very Nice Video. Thanks for showing me how to load paper cartridges. I'll be gearing up to do that for myself.
Very nice video I use the same method as you do and it works great with Justin's kit very clean and good shooting
Thank you
Nice introduction!
I'm glad you like it
Kind Thanks and a Lovely job on your modifications! I have one like yours that a 1995 manufacture date. It seems to load easier than the new models I’ve seen. I’ll see when I try more conical rounds. Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I've been casting J&D bullets for my Pieta New Model Army (Sheriff). I also did some relief work on mine. I have ha a hard time getting my lube to be thin. I used nitrated coffee filters. I had a difficult time loading them and I think it's b/c I used too much powder. I'll try again with less and also a thinner / hotter lube. I used 1:1 bee's wax and olive oil. I LOVE the bullet and fired a few cylinders just hand loading with lubed wads. Much more fun than ball. Feels like a real old time man stopper.
I was able to load 30 grains of powder much easier by switching to a different funnel instead of the one supplied with the former.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 many people will only use black powder and if you absolutely must, Swiss 3 or 4f is the way to go. If you don’t mind a small break with tradition, you could also try Triple 7 substitute powder. It’s just a bit more energetic than Swiss, which is in turn the most potent real black powder available today. Very nice video, clear, concise and fun too! Thanks for taking the time to make it!
Beautiful job modifying your Remington New Model. > enjoyed the video!
Thank you very much!
What I've seen recently about lube coating thickness is that holding the bullet in the lube longer -- to let the lead warm up by contact with the hot wax -- will allow the initial "hardened on contact" lube to partially remelt, leaving less on the bullet. I've also read, some time ago, that you can adjust the proportion of beeswax to tallow to compensate hardness for temperature -- when expecting warmer conditions, use more beeswax and less tallow, and vice versa for cooler days at the range.
Very nice!
Thanks!
Theyre so much fun to shoot. I love my pistol.
Absolutely.
A solution I had to this without modifying the weapon is to use slightly heeled bullets and fit them down into the chamber just enough to clear the ramrod I didn't even realize most people were having these problems until I started seeing videos on it.
Love your work.
Thank you!
Polish cappers fit my 1858 perfectly
Very nice video and mod of the Remington 1858, I also have this pietta replica and it’s a nice shooter, never tried conicals in it just round ball but I’m sure the conicals hit harder and maybe even better accuracy
Thank you.
If this replica model is to be used with conical bullets..it must be slightly modified
The Johnson & Dow works perfectly with my original army issued 1858 Remington. However, my Uberti Colts in .36 and .44 will need some dressing up.
ThankYou !
You're welcome!
The heavy wax coating is because the bullets are cool. If you let the bullets set in the hot wax a little longer, the bullet will heat up a bit and the end result will be a thinner coating.
Thank you for this great video. I have to ask, if the gains are worth the work. I have decent accuracy with round balls. However if I were hunting, I’d say the extra energy provided by conicals would be desired. My cap and ball pistols are just range queens, and I use them shooting blanks for re-enactments.
The mods I made were easy to do, it was done in an afternoon start to finish. I had known about it for decades before I decided to do it to my revolver.
I used that cylinder loading press for a long time shooting at the range.
A couple of reasons why I waited so long to do it;
I had experimented with the Johnston & Dow bullets and was very pleased with the improved accuracy and penetration those gave. Once I decided to switch to those from round ball, I thought I might as well make the modifications so I could use the revolver in the field, away from a loading bench and the press.
The other reason is; I had finished all the load development work with all my other guns and the revolver was the last one I had not done a through load work-up. I simply finally got around to it.
There are some conical style bullets which can be loaded in these revolvers without modifications and those mods are not necessary for those bullets or round-balls.
Was it worth the time and effort? If you are only shooting round ball, I would say no.
It was absolutely worth my time to make the revolver easier to load in the field with paper cartridges and that particular bullet. I would recommend the mods on the back of the cylinder even for round ball loads only because it is so much easier to use a capper.
Over all, the mods make it much easier to load the revolver with that particular bullet and does not change the way the revolver functions with any other loadings I might want to use. It isn't necessary, but I would do it again with any Remington revolver I may get in the future.
Lee 200 grain real mini clears loader. And if you rotate it past that corner before you put in, it loads
Merci pour cette vidéo superbe qui me permet en plus de travailler mon anglais car vous parlez de manière très claire et plutôt posément
My pleasure.
It's a bit late, but you might try warming the bullet a bit before dipping. The cold surface of the bullet will cause the lube to solidify more quickly, making a thicker coating.
Air Venturi Seneca 200 gr hollow point fits just fine.
When using air gun slugs make sure that they are a tight fit because a loose fit can not seal the cylinder completely and can cause it to chain fire ( allow burning powder to enter the front of the cylinder and get past loose fitting projectiles setting off chambers not yet in battery causing the weapon to explode in the hand) the projectiles should be tight enough to leave a ring of lead shaved off the projectiles when forced into the chamber leaving zero space for anything to get past the front of the projectiles into the chamber
Excellent video. Thumbs up~john
Thanks
Enjoyable video ,with good information.
Glad you enjoyed it
You can also heat up the bullet along with the lube. The lube wont harden so fast on a warmed up bullet.
You can preheat the bullets on a hot pad at a low setting and they won’t retain as much wax. or, you can preheat them and pre-lube them prior to seating them in the paper tube .
I will try that.
Wish I could find something on the 36 cal
Are you concerned that you’re unable to set a “chain fire preventer patch in the chamber over the nose of the bullet?
Thank you for producing this RUclips. Very informational.
No. If your caps fit the nipples properly and the ball or bullet is the correct size you will not have a chain fire. Lube is just to keep the fouling soft.
Eras Gone now sells a paper cartrige kit for larger powder charges....also they sell a mold for the Kerr bullet which has the driving band higher and a longer heel than the J&D bullet which allow the bullet to seat deeper during loading
@robertbooth7396 if the bullet is the correct size it will seal the chamber and prevent chain fires...the job of the lubed patch between bullet and powdercharge or the lube smeared into chamber mouths us to soften powder fouling and prevent leading barrel
Hi buddy ..
your big gun is very nice and you did a good job..nice , very nice..
it looks great in the hand of an old-timer like you..
I guess we are the same age and we like such guns, those guns like us too..
new technological semi-automatic plastic weapons look like "fake" and "toys" next to these weapons.
No one should blame us, we have habits from the past..😉😉😁
Thanks for watching. There is something special about the nostalgia of these things that can become addictive.
Great job!
Thanks
Overall, I'd like congratulate you on your very comprehensive covering of this very special subject. Firstly, please allow me to thank you for the service you are providing for preserving our rich history and heritage, I'm greatly appreciative. Having said this I'll implore you to put a less "substantial" and epic intro music ... really it's TOO MUCH, forgive me for saying so. Secondly the fact that you did not even briefly mention the how-to process of bluing detracted from your video. I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one delighted to see you cover bluing in another video, I believe the subject deserves a dedicated video. Liked (with provisos) and unconditionally subscribed, many thanks!
Thank you for your comments.
Very true that Pietta didn’t intend on conicals being used. The loading plunger isn’t shaped at all of tipped lead. Round nose works just fine, I use .450 johnson&dow 200gr RN and they fit tight as my alibi and the plunger of the loading lever doesn’t damage the round nose. Sure they sit just crooked till ya get them past the frame into alignment with the loading lever plunger.
I will make the same changes in my pietta NMA 58 !! Thank you!
Good luck!
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 thank you too, master!
Where doea someone get the tools you had to make the paper cartridges?
Several sources for those. Google "cartridge formers"
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 much appreciated. I found some with both a 25gr powder charge and a 30gr. now just to justify the cost of the revolver and supplies..😂
Careful, it's a slippery slope.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 i certainly expect it to be..😂
great vid
Thanks!
Well done and thanks for sharing! Tom KC3QAC
Thank you, sir.
Bought a Stainless 1858 Remington. How can you tell if it a Pietta or Uberti. Mine as a dovetailed front sight and horizontal grooves n the hammer.
the brass steel or stainless steel carcass? which one is best? 36 or 44?
Best? For which purpose? Stainless would be easiest to clean and less prone to rust and corrosion but not historical. Blued steel is historically correct for a Remington or Colt and studier than a brass frame. Brass frames are correct only on some brands of pistols used by the Southern forces, are not as sturdy as steel but fine for plinking with lighter loads.
36 caliber makes for a lighter (quicker) pistol. 44 caliber packs more punch if you are interested in hunting.
Hope that helps to answer your question.
I load the cylinders on a seperate press anyway.
Speed of the conical bullet?
No idea. I don't have a chronograph.
A very nice, well presented video. Still, I will stay with roundballs. I might be wrong about to conical a having an advantage, but I have not found ine, nor seen proof they either load better or perform better.
nice video , i enjoyed it bro !!! , HOW about a link to cartridge maker friend ?
You don't need to get the lube hotter. You need to get the bullets warmer.
Thanks
Did you consider widening at least one of the safety notches on the rear of the cylinder so the hammer can seat fully? I did that to only one notch on mine because all the notches were too narrow from the factory.
Didn't need too. All the notches are good and the hammer seats fine in them all.
I'm about to get one
Grazie per le informazioni per le modifiche apportate al revolver. Ottima performance. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🫶
Will I need to make these modifications to be able to shoot conical bullets out of my Uberti 1858 Remington Army?
Perhaps. Try your conical bullets and see how they load.
I just shoot balls in my Remington Navy .36 though in paper cartridges, makes them quicker to load.
Hi Where did you get the RED cartridge mandrel
I think it is from Guns of the West. But there are many available google paper cartridge formers.
Honestly I have conversion kits in all my reproduction models. Now my antiques, of which I've very few, I of course keep all original and only one I've ever shot only a HANDFUL of times. But as far as reproductions go, heck with it, convert to modern case ammo
I have modern revolvers and pistols for self-defense and hunting. My black powder pistols and revolvers are just for fun.
Also what grain powder are you using?
Speaking to conical bullets. Would you be interested in testing some custom test conicals I have worked to put together. I currently have 5 different working .31 caliber, two that work in the 1863 Remington with no modifications and all five work in the 1849. Four .36 caliber. And for the .44 caliber I have put together four designs for the Remington/small colt, and four designs geared for the ruger/Walker.
Sure, but the only revolver I have is the .44 Remington New Army.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 not sure you recieved my second message
I don't see one.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 twice now I have sent my email address, and it disappears.
Just email it to me. stevesells1955@gmail.com
My e-mail is listed on the website too. traditionalmuzzleloader.com
Good video.
Question, did u have any paper residue left in the cylinder before loading up another round ?
Thanks.
I did with regular cigarette papers but not with the rice paper rolling papers.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983
Are the rice paper rolling papers for cigarettes.
@@charlesc.plumley9755
Yes, I got them from the local pot head shop.
do you know where i can buy conicals if i dont want to cast myself?
I do not. Google, and you may find a source. Stores barely carry a few round ball these days. The Johnson & Dow are only available if you buy a propitiatory mold and cast your own.
There are shorter conical bullets.
Where did you get the mandrel for the paper cartridge?
Mine came from "Guns of the West" but there are many available. A Google search will show many sources.
please, my dear, tell me of what is made the lube?
At 9:11 in the video. 50% bees wax, 50% lamb tallow.
Does it still load round ball paper cartridges with the modification that you made to the ramrod
Absolutely!
Do you find better accuracy with the conical bullets vs the round ball?
Yes.
I just subbed you. Thx for the vid, looking for more info, thx
What size caps are we using??
@@garyhammond2213
Remington #10
When you shortened the loading rammer is it too short to load round balls now?
No. But it won't seat them against the powder for very light loads. You will need a filler for those.
Why not use a 30 grain powder pellet rather than measuring 30 Gr into a paper cartridge? Tom KC3QAC
Because I prefer to keep it traditional.
OK, you've made your mods - well done. Now, can you still seat round balls sufficiently? Or does the ram fall short of a full seating depth? That's my reluctance to do these mods. I figure I can load the cylinder and have a second cylinder loaded for a back up... and not affect round ball loading... but maybe this works fine?
Yes, I can still seat round-ball with 20 -30 grain charges.
never had to modify mine at all conical loaded with no problem
Q: Where did you obtain the conical bullet (who makes it or who makes the dies)? Thank you.
Disregard, you explained later in the video (twice). www.erasgonebullets.com/store/product/-44-johnston-
Will it still load round balls?
Yes!
Hi! Thank you for your fantastic work and video! Which is the calibre (inch or mm) of the J&D conical bullets that are using?
0.454 inches. The bore of the revolver is 0.440 inches.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 thank you for your answer, master!
I made it even easier and got a 45 acp conversion cylinder. If i need to shoot BP i will use a .454 ball.
Yes, if you want to shoot bp cartridges.
Best modification for a Pietta is a crushing machine or melting furnace!
I don't know about that. They can shoot OK if loaded properly. I agree they could be made better without much more expense. But people will make the cheapest crap that they can sell.
I use conical in my inertia 1858 no problem.
Thanks bud I'm new to u
Welcome!
Couldn't you use a buleet starter to push the conical partially into the cylinder before ramming it ?
What was the difference in accuracy with the conical bullets?
At 15 yards on the bench all 6 shots made a one hole group. Round balls grouped about five inches.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 I was thinking that improved grouping was because of a hollow base bullet, but that does not appear to be so in the video...
It is a solid base. I think the improved accuracy is due to the longer bearing surface and the bullet diameter being large enough to fill the grooves in the bore making a better seal. The bullet I recovered from the water jug penetration tests showed that.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Did you purchase the conicals or mold them? If you molded them, what brand mould did you use? Conical size?
I cast them. Lee makes the mold but you can only get them from eras gone bullets. The bullet measures .465 at the grease ring and .440 at the heel. It weighs 226 grains. Check out the site at erasgonebullets.com They offer different style bullet molds, this one is the Johnston & Dow bullet.
so the whole conical vs round ball. didn't confederate soldiers say round ball worked better? I know the minie ball is devastating. your thoughts?
Conicals are heavier, have a longer surface in contact with rifling, and ballistically superior to round ball. But they are a latter development than a patched round ball.
If this replica model is to be used with conical bullets..it must be slightly modified
What you need is way less beeswax should be more like 80 20 That is why the thick coating the beeswax is hardening. I will stick to my 22grains and round balls all day long! The cartridges are way to much work for no gain in my opinion. Been in this game 55 years old habits hard to break lol.
I've been wondering why no one modifies those old guns to make them better.. I think most people that own them just want that old gun feeling.. Personally I'd modify the grips to fit my hand just right, put adjustable sights on it so you have a rear sight and can actually adjust them instead of having to do Kentucky windage.. and making a smoother/lighter trigger pull would be another possibility. But then I'm a hot rodder and custom paint guy.. leaving anything stock is boring to me.
Trigger work was the first thing I did after I bought the gun along with polishing internal parts. I have replaced the front sight with a dovetail sight for windage adjustment. Rules for some competitions allow only one dovetail sight and no adjustable rear sights. Staying inside the rules and keeping the original look is important to some.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 and see I don't care about competition, I just want one to shoot for fun.. and maybe carry if I can't get a CCW.. better than a knife after all.
Could you not just buy another rammer,modify it for your conical bullets and swap rammer out for the type of round you’re going to shoot? The mod to the frame is good because it allows you to shoot different types of conical bullets.
No need to swap rammers. The modified rammer works on all shape of bullets as well as round ball.
I'm not gonna care if its ball or bullet if an armed intruder tries to break in.
Remingtons idea was..you.carried multy cylinders .loaded..and ready to use..not actuly .using the lever...its in Remingtons manual that Came with each Gun..
Listen there's absolutely nothing wrong with ball ammo. When you hit a human being with a hunk of lead flying damn near the speed of sound belive me, it doesn't matter what shape the lead is lol
Nothing wrong with round-ball. My pistol is just more accurate with the bullet, it penetrates better and hits the gongs harder.
I have no interest in using black powder for personal defense.