This video is an absolute life saver. Was not able to decipher the manual in any shape or form. Setting for my function was dead easy. Set the target temp in the bottom window. That's it, totally set! Worth its weight in gold.
Hi Andrew , ive got to say that was the best instructional video on pids i,ve found on RUclips so far.I actually understood everything you were talking about , as you might of guessed im not an electrician lol! initial settings manual i didnt even know about so thankyou.All the best mate.
I love the way you picking up the relay with mains applied and a bare wire connection above your fingers, the amperage is rated as 40 on relay. I wouldn’t even attempt that without a decent heat sink though.
I think it's only running 12v as per the fan so his shock wouldnt be more than a tickle really. but if You were running a 240 heating element? yeah i'd steer clear of any wires lol
A good video. it's a pity the chinese producers don't have the initiative you have to give explicit operation details you do. Thankyou for being so helpful. Incidentally are the Chinese frightened of mentioning colours RED AND GREEN. One of the features is that the bottom target temperature the 'user' must set is GREEN ! The desired temperature the user requires the heating element to switch off is RED and in the upper reading. I have had to get used to digital electronics with being a commercial heating engineer but I thought I was thick when I spent an hour trying to set a previous controller same brand as the one that took five minutes to get it to heat 300 watts up & then maintain 200C. I now have proof the 1st controller was faulty out of the box. I was advised the thermocouple thread is to be 6mm (course) =no way, it is 1/4 whitworth and it fits into the appropriate thread I made for it. It's a K type thermocouple. The device seems to have been factory set for a K TC by shear luck for me.
The 400C limit refers to the proportional action which is where it sets it output (0-100%) proportional to the difference between the set and measured temps. K-type thermocouples should be good up to around 800C at least. The smallest gauge k-type I believe is 30 AWG and its suggested range goes up to 760C
Well done and thank you for your work. STP Possible with this REX C100, to stop heating before reaching high temperatures? , Thank you for your answers
Hi Andrew, at around 6:23 you mentioned that you are controlling power to the fan via the SSR with a DC supply. However, I notice your SSR output is 5-380VAC. Does it work with a DC supply? I want to control the temperature of a silicon heat pad that requires a 12DC supply. Will it work with the same SSR (5-380VAC) as yours or should I get a SSR with a DC in/DC out?
I'm not sure how this is working. I have the same SSR and it does not work with DC loads. It will turn on but not turn off as per what I everyone else says about using an AC SSR with DC. I got a DC/DC SSR and it worked fine with my 12v DC fan. I just used it for my Offset Smoker over the weekend and and for the most part it was dead on and held temp at 106 to 107C for 4 hours. It did go crazy once but it was because I opened up the grill to rearrange the meat and it dropped to around 40 C. It way over shot to 130. I think there are settings to help control this.
Buy a real one from RKC Instrument Inc. in Japan and you will not have problems. Berme REX-C100 are chinese imitation controllers that can catch fire and they do not meet any of the quality specifications. These instruments are DANGEROUS AND ILLEGAL!!
SSR turn on and off with DC when they get signal on the input but they switch AC on and off ...usually mains at zero crossing to eliminate noise,arcing and overloading ....
Andrew thank you for the instructional video I wired my PID up and everything look good until I set my temperature but the top numbers highlighted in red kept going up and up and I didn't know how to stop it I set my temperature at 72 and the top numbers start climbing up to 300°. I was wondering if you could help me to fix this problem
Hi there! I recently bought one of these to regulate a 12VDC heater element. For some reason through I can't seem to get the SSRelay to disengage i.e. it heats up and measures that heat OK, but it isn't stopping, even past the SV. Is it that the relay is just not suitable or is there something else I should be looking at?
SSRs are for AC only. Back to back SCRs or a triac. They shut off as the AC voltage passes through zero V. I don't understand why it's working for him in this video - guessing the "wall wart" must have been unfiltered DC dropping to zero every half cycle. For DC you might want an N-channel mosfet (with a 5 volt gate if that's the voltage that comes out of the controller - I haven't measured it) to switch the minus line of your heater.
Hello, I am trying te set-up my Berme tempature controller for two days now but I can't get it right. Can you please send me the settings of the menu? AL1 - ..... ARU - ..... P -... 1 -... d -... Ar - ... r - ... SC - ... LCK - ... I'll hope you can help me. Thanks in advance!
Hi do I need to have a thermal couple? I just want to control a heater cartridge with no automatic heating up or cooling down. Just a constant temp. Please help 😀
I would like to use PID controller for heating purpose by using halogen light bulb. When I on the halogen light bulb, it will start heating and I would like to control the desired temperature and remain it. Can I use this product?
Hi, I am a newbie with the Rex C100. I have successfully setup the controller and SSR (after modifying the controller to signal 12 V to the SSR) to regulate the temp of my fish pond. The controller is regulating the pool pump, heater and UV light all on the same circuit. The target temp is 25 C. I haven't changed anything but the target temp on the controller. This far it is working well. Initially it switched on and off a few times and shortly afterwards it settled in heating mode while the temp slowly increased. About 10 hours later while constantly running the temp reached 18 C and the unit kept on switching off the system a split second and switching on again. this happens every minute or so. Any advise on this problem? Secondly, as the temp increased to 23 C (target still 25) it keeps on switching off and on, like it is trying to slow down the heating as not to overshoot (I think?). I only need it to do a simple thing, run the temp up to 25 C - switch off - wait until 23 C - switch on until 25 C. Any advice on the settings to get this done?
OK I'm not sure if you are checking posts but I got everything together and somehow screwed up my first PID. Got another one and just started to use it without going into any settings. I set my temp and the fan goes on. The problem is the fan doesn't turn off. Its a 5v simple battery operated fan. The SSR LED goes on and off but the fan stays on. I've tried hooking it up switching the positive and the negative with the same result. I have 2 SSR's and they both seem to work the same way. I noticed you used I think a 12v fan. Is that maybe an issue? ETA: OK reading some more about AC SSR's and how they only work with AC not sure how you are using it with a DC fan.
how can the device display or indicate not only the temperature but also the speed rate of changing temperature. for example 10'C per minute indicating the temperature rises by 10'C in a minute. I need this device for my coffee roasting machine to understand the changing rate of temperature during the heating. Thanks
Have you any idea how inaccurate the temperature measuring is with this product? Tin melts at 449,42 °F....and according to the BERM REX C-100 the temperature was at 298.4 °F when it did....some tolerance, huh?
nope.. it's Chinese so they use metric. It's not Fahrenheit. It's Celsius. I did try changing to Fahrenheit by setting SLI2 code to 0001 and saved it by pressing [SET] and the [
Warning, these SS Relays will fail by SHORTING OUT leaving your heater ALWAYS ON!!!! I've had TWO of these relays fail on me for my 3D printer. The REX100C does have an overtemp alarm setting, with a separate alarm output. I suggest that you use this and wire a sonolert to the alarm so you have an audiable warning if your relay fails and you go into thermal runaway! Better still use the alarm output to open a second mechanical relay in series with the SS one.
The only reason your REX C100 does this is because you've bought illegal Chinese-made ones. If you buy the real ones from RKC Instruments Inc. from Japan, you'll see you will not have these problems. You can buy real ones here for instance: www.cascade.net/controllers
@@joblessalex Well they are not that expensive.. I use crydom Solid state relays. And also make sure that you have them connected to a good heat sink Solid state relays. And also make sure that you have them connected to a good heat sink . If not they will melt on you
This video is exactly what I was looking for, but I only realized it half way in. I too am looking at this for an Offset smoker fan controller. That should really be in in title. I had started to put together a shopping list of parts I would need to make an Arduino based thermo couple based controller. I've had the fan for months even before my Wife and Son went out and bought one at HD when they were discounting their Brinkman smokers. I may order one from Banggood tonight.
This one may but I have one with the same type of product code and I can't change it from C to F. Not all Berme PIDS are the same and no real way to know beforehand.
tanks very much for progamation cooling sl6. now can you help me in make close circuit water circulation I need progradation for. exemple when the water is 60 degrees I need the pump start to circulate water and stop at 30 degrees is that possible ??? and in the same time remove the pulse mode. tanks in advance. Gaetan
please help I can not get into cod mode. everyone says go to lck and do value of 1000. but I can only enter 3 digits not 4 and if I use 100 for the lck I only get option sl1 sl2 sl3 and sl4. and the first 3 I can not change the value of. I can only change the value of sl4. how do I get into cod mode? I pushed and held set and left button but it will not come up. I have a rex-c100
Anyone see these behave strangely with the PV value jumping all over as soon as the SSR starts cycling? I’ve tried several thermocouples and two different c100 controllers. The heating element can be plugged in or disconnected and the behavior continues.
Thanks for the info on the pid . I have a berm rexc100 running headbands for a basic injection machine I have built . I’m having trouble getting the headbands to heat up at all . The output light is on and the thermocouple s are in working order . Is there a setting In in the parameters menu to get the pid working on the initial setup ?. I am just struggling to find any good info online for this model of rexc100 so any info would be appreciated. Thanks
I think you would need to find some sort of spec sheet and come up with some sort of interface. None of the output are any kind of serial output. What exactly are you trying to do? Until I found these PID devices I had planed to make an Arduino based temp controller.
There is no way to communicate with this device so building an interface is not possible or practical. You need to start with a temperature controller that has a built in serial interface such as an Altec PC410 which is available on ebay for < $60. That is about the cheapest I've seen. Otherwise you'll be in the 100s of dollars range. You can incorporate the PID control right in the Arduino, which there are lots of sketches available, but you then need an analog input capable of connecting to a thermocouple which is not an easy task. Some thoughts to consider....
To interface a k type thermocouple to an arduino you just need the right interface module. Adafruit has 3 different ones and the sketches to support them . I was going down this route until I saw how easy it was to use a PID and bought a cheap one from China. I've already tried using it in my smoker but the SSR i have only works for AC loads. Its the same one in this video and I'm still not sure how it works here. Everything I have read said it can't work and mine also didn't work exactly how they explained it wouldn't. It doesn't turn off the SSR. It has to do with the components in the SSR. One other change is I'm not sure how well that style thermocouple would work in air. It think its a contact one and is best used for things like pots with liquid.
I'm confused by your comment about your smoker and the fact that the SSR is for AC loads. Your smoker is an AC load so an SSR will control the heating element just fine. What did you read that said it can't work? Provide a link if you can. Is your C100 the model with a "V" as the 'first control output' and then you are connecting the SSR directly to the C100? Or, is it an "M" and you've modified it to use the internal DC power supply or an external supply through the relay contacts to drive the SSR? Is the output LED on the C100 going off but the SSR does not? If yes, you probably have a bad SSR. Measure the voltage across the DC side of the SSR when the control is on and then off. Does it change? Does the LED on the SSR change with it? If yes, SSR is bad. If not, it's the C100. If it's the C100, I'd verify you have a "K" model that takes a thermocouple and that it's wired to terminals 9 (blue) and 10(red). Next I'd verify your SL1 setting is all 0's for a type K. Finally, the thermocouple will work fine in air. The only difference between the two(air vs liquid), involves some time constants in the PID algorithm. For a smoker, which is a slow responding system, it won't make a difference.
I guess this was for me but I'm using a 12v dc fan to control the air going into my charcoal smoker, not electric. Same as the creator of this video. Based on this video I assumed my AC SSR would also work with DC. Well it didn't and I now know why. I have since then bought a DC SSR and the system worked great to keep my smoker at 107 C. My main issue is that the PID I got from Banggood doesn't have a good manual and I can't find one online. Good thing it worked right out of the box. I did also get a bigger longer Thermocouple that I think was much more sensitive than the stubby one in the kit. I think the stubby one is for direct contact to a heating vessel. I'll check to see if the stubby one works as well. Just glad it worked as well as it did.
Gudday sir. How about i will use for cooling sir, all i need is 16-17 C means, 16C below it will turn-off and if 17C up it will turn-on. I will use as a switch(i will pluge my refrigerator) for restoring my pig semen. Thank u and God bles
Hi. Hardly a high level overview but useful non the less. It's called a 'thermocouple'. The manuals for these are terrible (typical Chinese gobbledygook) There are many, many other settings most of which I still don't understand unfortunately.
This video is an absolute life saver. Was not able to decipher the manual in any shape or form. Setting for my function was dead easy. Set the target temp in the bottom window. That's it, totally set! Worth its weight in gold.
Hi Andrew , ive got to say that was the best instructional video on pids i,ve found on RUclips so far.I actually understood everything you were talking about , as you might of guessed im not an electrician lol! initial settings manual i didnt even know about so thankyou.All the best mate.
I love the way you picking up the relay with mains applied and a bare wire connection above your fingers, the amperage is rated as 40 on relay. I wouldn’t even attempt that without a decent heat sink though.
I think it's only running 12v as per the fan so his shock wouldnt be more than a tickle really. but if You were running a 240 heating element? yeah i'd steer clear of any wires lol
@@zombieprinting2670 12V cant penetrate normal skin on your hand :)
A good video. it's a pity the chinese producers don't have the initiative you have to give explicit operation details you do. Thankyou for being so helpful. Incidentally are the Chinese frightened of mentioning colours RED AND GREEN. One of the features is that the bottom target temperature the 'user' must set is GREEN ! The desired temperature the user requires the heating element to switch off is RED and in the upper reading.
I have had to get used to digital electronics with being a commercial heating engineer but I thought I was thick when I spent an hour trying to set a previous controller same brand as the one that took five minutes to get it to heat 300 watts up & then maintain 200C. I now have proof the 1st controller was faulty out of the box.
I was advised the thermocouple thread is to be 6mm (course) =no way, it is 1/4 whitworth and it fits into the appropriate thread I made for it.
It's a K type thermocouple. The device seems to have been factory set for a K TC by shear luck for me.
The 400C limit refers to the proportional action which is where it sets it output (0-100%) proportional to the difference between the set and measured temps. K-type thermocouples should be good up to around 800C at least. The smallest gauge k-type I believe is 30 AWG and its suggested range goes up to 760C
This is very helpful since the manual I had was nonsense english (probably badly translated from chinese), this helps alot, thanks
Also do you have the link for the manual. Ones I've seen are only a few pages.
thanks
Is it possible to have point . Example 5.5
Well done and thank you for your work. STP Possible with this REX C100, to stop heating before reaching high temperatures? , Thank you for your answers
I have the exact model you have from china. What is the link for the manual that you found to work best for you?
Hi Andrew, at around 6:23 you mentioned that you are controlling power to the fan via the SSR with a DC supply. However, I notice your SSR output is 5-380VAC. Does it work with a DC supply? I want to control the temperature of a silicon heat pad that requires a 12DC supply. Will it work with the same SSR (5-380VAC) as yours or should I get a SSR with a DC in/DC out?
I'm not sure how this is working. I have the same SSR and it does not work with DC loads. It will turn on but not turn off as per what I everyone else says about using an AC SSR with DC.
I got a DC/DC SSR and it worked fine with my 12v DC fan. I just used it for my Offset Smoker over the weekend and and for the most part it was dead on and held temp at 106 to 107C for 4 hours. It did go crazy once but it was because I opened up the grill to rearrange the meat and it dropped to around 40 C. It way over shot to 130. I think there are settings to help control this.
Buy a real one from RKC Instrument Inc. in Japan and you will not have problems. Berme REX-C100 are chinese imitation controllers that can catch fire and they do not meet any of the quality specifications. These instruments are DANGEROUS AND ILLEGAL!!
SSR turn on and off with DC when they get signal on the input but they switch AC on and off ...usually mains at zero crossing to eliminate noise,arcing and overloading ....
@@ingridmeijer1578 You must be a sales rep for that company because you post the same answers all over the web.
The 40 marked on the SSR is the amprage.
Do you have a link to where you got that fan?
Thnx
Andrew thank you for the instructional video I wired my PID up and everything look good until I set my temperature but the top numbers highlighted in red kept going up and up and I didn't know how to stop it I set my temperature at 72 and the top numbers start climbing up to 300°. I was wondering if you could help me to fix this problem
Hi there! I recently bought one of these to regulate a 12VDC heater element. For some reason through I can't seem to get the SSRelay to disengage i.e. it heats up and measures that heat OK, but it isn't stopping, even past the SV. Is it that the relay is just not suitable or is there something else I should be looking at?
SSRs are for AC only. Back to back SCRs or a triac. They shut off as the AC voltage passes through zero V. I don't understand why it's working for him in this video - guessing the "wall wart" must have been unfiltered DC dropping to zero every half cycle. For DC you might want an N-channel mosfet (with a 5 volt gate if that's the voltage that comes out of the controller - I haven't measured it) to switch the minus line of your heater.
If this control is on/off to maintain the desired temperature, then the thermal coil won't last long. Do you have any problem???
Hello, I am trying te set-up my Berme tempature controller for two days now but I can't get it right. Can you please send me the settings of the menu?
AL1 - .....
ARU - .....
P -...
1 -...
d -...
Ar - ...
r - ...
SC - ...
LCK - ...
I'll hope you can help me. Thanks in advance!
So does the Berme "save" the PID values as they get steady or do they reset constantly...??
I did try changing to Fahrenheit by setting SLI2 code to 0001 and saved it by pressing [SET] and the [
Hi do I need to have a thermal couple? I just want to control a heater cartridge with no automatic heating up or cooling down. Just a constant temp. Please help 😀
I would like to use PID controller for heating purpose by using halogen light bulb. When I on the halogen light bulb, it will start heating and I would like to control the desired temperature and remain it. Can I use this product?
Hi, I am a newbie with the Rex C100. I have successfully
setup the controller and SSR (after modifying the controller to signal 12 V to
the SSR) to regulate the temp of my fish pond. The controller is regulating the
pool pump, heater and UV light all on the same circuit. The target temp is 25
C. I haven't changed anything but the target temp on the controller.
This far it is working well. Initially it switched on and
off a few times and shortly afterwards it settled in heating mode while the
temp slowly increased. About 10 hours later while constantly running the temp
reached 18 C and the unit kept on switching off the system a split second and
switching on again. this happens every minute or so. Any advise on this
problem?
Secondly, as the temp increased to 23 C (target still 25) it
keeps on switching off and on, like it is trying to slow down the heating as not
to overshoot (I think?). I only need it to do a simple thing, run the temp up
to 25 C - switch off - wait until 23 C - switch on until 25 C.
Any advice on the settings to get this done?
Are you...switching DC with an AC SSR?
Excellent. But how program for , stop Out SSR ? and always displayed temperature. Thanks
Not sure what you are asking.
OK I'm not sure if you are checking posts but I got everything together and somehow screwed up my first PID. Got another one and just started to use it without going into any settings. I set my temp and the fan goes on. The problem is the fan doesn't turn off.
Its a 5v simple battery operated fan. The SSR LED goes on and off but the fan stays on. I've tried hooking it up switching the positive and the negative with the same result. I have 2 SSR's and they both seem to work the same way.
I noticed you used I think a 12v fan. Is that maybe an issue?
ETA: OK reading some more about AC SSR's and how they only work with AC not sure how you are using it with a DC fan.
that was quiet good information you share with me? but may i ask ,so do u have any idea of testing the heater temperature ,do u share with me ?
Very informative video, everything was explained thanks. And your relay is 40A.
thanks for the info. it help me set my C100 .
hello i was just wondering what did you use as a power source for the rex c 100
Are you able to program this unit from Celsius to Fahrenheit?
Is there a reset option available?
how can the device display or indicate not only the temperature but also the speed rate of changing temperature. for example 10'C per minute indicating the temperature rises by 10'C in a minute. I need this device for my coffee roasting machine to understand the changing rate of temperature during the heating. Thanks
I took apart my SS relay and it had a BT26A triac in it from LT semi.
It's 25 amps rated but it IS possible it's a relabeled one which is just 10 amps
never trust any Chinese electronics from aliexpress/ebay if you want to switch any serious power. The controller itself is fine.
where is the negative (netral) wire to the fan come from ?
Have you any idea how inaccurate the temperature measuring is with this product?
Tin melts at 449,42 °F....and according to the BERM REX C-100 the temperature was at 298.4 °F when it did....some tolerance, huh?
nope.. it's Chinese so they use metric. It's not Fahrenheit. It's Celsius. I did try changing to Fahrenheit by setting SLI2 code to 0001 and saved it by pressing [SET] and the [
thanks for your demo video..if i will use that rex c100 for negative temp application, is it possible? if yes what add on do i need? TIA
Is this can use for electric oven
Kindly tell the solution of underscale issue
how do you wire a heating band to it ???
did you get the answer?
where did you found this manual??
Warning, these SS Relays will fail by SHORTING OUT leaving your heater ALWAYS ON!!!!
I've had TWO of these relays fail on me for my 3D printer. The REX100C does have an overtemp alarm setting, with a separate alarm output. I suggest that you use this and wire a sonolert to the alarm so you have an audiable warning if your relay fails and you go into thermal runaway! Better still use the alarm output to open a second mechanical relay in series with the SS one.
The only reason your REX C100 does this is because you've bought illegal Chinese-made ones. If you buy the real ones from RKC Instruments Inc. from Japan, you'll see you will not have these problems. You can buy real ones here for instance: www.cascade.net/controllers
@@ingridmeijer1578 lol those are probably $600 a pop
@@joblessalex Well they are not that expensive.. I use crydom Solid state relays. And also make sure that you have them connected to a good heat sink Solid state relays. And also make sure that you have them connected to a good heat sink . If not they will melt on you
Just use a thermal fuse on the mains.
Hello i bought today a Berme RX-C100 secondhand.
Can you show me the link for the manual.
I didn'tn know you can use SSR with DC out-put ?
what value du you add? is that just a random value you need to figure out or is it 23 degrees?
This video is exactly what I was looking for, but I only realized it half way in.
I too am looking at this for an Offset smoker fan controller. That should really be in in title.
I had started to put together a shopping list of parts I would need to make an Arduino based thermo couple based controller. I've had the fan for months even before my Wife and Son went out and bought one at HD when they were discounting their Brinkman smokers.
I may order one from Banggood tonight.
It will be here tomorrow.
Hi, could you please share the type of relay you were using?
does it display the temp in F or C // can you change that in the menu ?
This one may but I have one with the same type of product code and I can't change it from C to F.
Not all Berme PIDS are the same and no real way to know beforehand.
You can change in sl2 000 is c and 0001 is f
rimmersbryggeri Like I posted I can see that setting but on my I guess clone you can't change this value.
@@rimmersbryggeri I did try changing to Fahrenheit by setting SLI2 code to 0001 and saved it by pressing [SET] and the [
where did you get all the components? ebay?
Dear, i know a manufacturer of this temperature controller which in china wenzhou. Their website: www.controllermeter.com.
Can we use normal relay?
tanks very much for progamation cooling sl6. now can you help me in make close circuit water circulation I need progradation for. exemple when the water is 60 degrees I need the pump start to circulate water and stop at 30 degrees is that possible ??? and in the same time remove the pulse mode. tanks in advance. Gaetan
HELLO.
can you share that manual ??
gretting....
If use NTC 10K? Can it work?
If we dont want cycle how can we set the PID
how do i set value in decimal? i have a Berme Rex-C100 PID.
le hago una consulta. el rex c100 se puede configurar como temporizador? muchas gracias
How to gat the menu
How do i input decimal values for PID settings?
Thanks ,
You need to change parameter for oud to be 1 to use fan and oud=0 for heat. Good luck
thanks for these nice information, very simple and clear
IF you didnt find it out you can activate alarms on sl 4 and 5. There area different alarms you can use
rimmersbryggeri same have alarms so don't. Also some have one and some have two alarms.
i suggest to always read the manual because in mine, the SL6 should never be changed as it may result in malfunction or failure of the instrument
Thanks for the excellent review and tutorial
please help I can not get into cod mode. everyone says go to lck and do value of 1000. but I can only enter 3 digits not 4 and if I use 100 for the lck I only get option sl1 sl2 sl3 and sl4. and the first 3 I can not change the value of. I can only change the value of sl4. how do I get into cod mode? I pushed and held set and left button but it will not come up. I have a rex-c100
Bill Sierer I have same problem
I have the same problem ...do you found some solution??
No ugh
+Bill Sierer the same issue with mine - no further menu (just s1 to s4) with three digits only ;(
Sigh
Anyone see these behave strangely with the PV value jumping all over as soon as the SSR starts cycling? I’ve tried several thermocouples and two different c100 controllers. The heating element can be plugged in or disconnected and the behavior continues.
Thanks for the info on the pid . I have a berm rexc100 running headbands for a basic injection machine I have built . I’m having trouble getting the headbands to heat up at all . The output light is on and the thermocouple s are in working order . Is there a setting In in the parameters menu to get the pid working on the initial setup ?. I am just struggling to find any good info online for this model of rexc100 so any info would be appreciated. Thanks
hey, i was wondering if it would be able to connect the rex c100 to arduino, to control him through arduino lcd screen?
greets, nel
I think you would need to find some sort of spec sheet and come up with some sort of interface. None of the output are any kind of serial output.
What exactly are you trying to do?
Until I found these PID devices I had planed to make an Arduino based temp controller.
There is no way to communicate with this device so building an interface is not possible or practical. You need to start with a temperature controller that has a built in serial interface such as an Altec PC410 which is available on ebay for < $60. That is about the cheapest I've seen. Otherwise you'll be in the 100s of dollars range. You can incorporate the PID control right in the Arduino, which there are lots of sketches available, but you then need an analog input capable of connecting to a thermocouple which is not an easy task. Some thoughts to consider....
To interface a k type thermocouple to an arduino you just need the right interface module. Adafruit has 3 different ones and the sketches to support them . I was going down this route until I saw how easy it was to use a PID and bought a cheap one from China.
I've already tried using it in my smoker but the SSR i have only works for AC loads. Its the same one in this video and I'm still not sure how it works here.
Everything I have read said it can't work and mine also didn't work exactly how they explained it wouldn't. It doesn't turn off the SSR. It has to do with the components in the SSR.
One other change is I'm not sure how well that style thermocouple would work in air. It think its a contact one and is best used for things like pots with liquid.
I'm confused by your comment about your smoker and the fact that the SSR is for AC loads. Your smoker is an AC load so an SSR will control the heating element just fine. What did you read that said it can't work? Provide a link if you can.
Is your C100 the model with a "V" as the 'first control output' and then you are connecting the SSR directly to the C100? Or, is it an "M" and you've modified it to use the internal DC power supply or an external supply through the relay contacts to drive the SSR? Is the output LED on the C100 going off but the SSR does not? If yes, you probably have a bad SSR. Measure the voltage across the DC side of the SSR when the control is on and then off. Does it change? Does the LED on the SSR change with it? If yes, SSR is bad. If not, it's the C100.
If it's the C100, I'd verify you have a "K" model that takes a thermocouple and that it's wired to terminals 9 (blue) and 10(red). Next I'd verify your SL1 setting is all 0's for a type K. Finally, the thermocouple will work fine in air. The only difference between the two(air vs liquid), involves some time constants in the PID algorithm. For a smoker, which is a slow responding system, it won't make a difference.
I guess this was for me but I'm using a 12v dc fan to control the air going into my charcoal smoker, not electric. Same as the creator of this video.
Based on this video I assumed my AC SSR would also work with DC. Well it didn't and I now know why. I have since then bought a DC SSR and the system worked great to keep my smoker at 107 C.
My main issue is that the PID I got from Banggood doesn't have a good manual and I can't find one online. Good thing it worked right out of the box.
I did also get a bigger longer Thermocouple that I think was much more sensitive than the stubby one in the kit. I think the stubby one is for direct contact to a heating vessel.
I'll check to see if the stubby one works as well. Just glad it worked as well as it did.
rex c400 berme to pt 100 , what instalacion?
sl1= 1000
Ya I have the same controller but I can't bring up the SL menus and only have 3 digital places as to your 4. Ughhh
Same
excellent saved me a lot of time
Sir g kindly tell me how to remove error from xmtg 708 controllar temperature
Hi! Can you send me the manual?
THANK YOU SIR!
Hi can u help me I have ReX C900FK07
thanks very much. . . excellent
some rex-c100's on amazon are programmed dif. Mine only has 3 digits that light. reset to factory by making cod 911 is the easiest way to set it.
It's not a "thermal coupler". It's a 'thermocouple'
why does this blink
The blinking is caused by the camera.
Not that simpe if we make a stable controller on heater. There are some parameters need to be set properly.
thank you
Nice! Thanks!
Foteks tend to blow up
Good
It is not a PID controller.
It's thermocouple NOT THERMOCOUPLER....,
@@rpasco9352 First time I've ever heard someone say "shut on." Definitely makes you wonder, doesn't it?
Gudday sir. How about i will use for cooling sir, all i need is 16-17 C means, 16C below it will turn-off and if 17C up it will turn-on. I will use as a switch(i will pluge my refrigerator) for restoring my pig semen. Thank u and God bles
P.I.D. Not PID
this guy has problem with mathematics, logical thinking and obviously with general knowledge of things
I watched almost 4 minutes and then couldn't anymore. I should've known when he started calling it a "pit controller" and "pit relay"...
Че не судьба на русском рассказать?
Hi. Hardly a high level overview but useful non the less. It's called a 'thermocouple'. The manuals for these are terrible (typical Chinese gobbledygook) There are many, many other settings most of which I still don't understand unfortunately.
Hello, just wondering if you have a link the the manual that actually lined up cheers