THANK YOU!! Although this is how I typically build my Shocks, *Mostly.......* that tiny bit about the small hole in the Shock Cap...... BRILLIANT!!! I've been in the Hobby for over 37 Years. The one annoying thing about building and Tuning Shocks is - if you get the right amount of Oil, and everything looks good..... But then you test the Shock by pushing up the Shock, and it SPRINGS back down - WITHOUT the Spring installed!!!! SOME People think that's "normal"..... but it certainly is NOT!! That fluid pressure actually INCREASES the Mechanical Spring Rate! Even with the lightest Oil. I CAN'T BELIEVE that I never saw that the pressure from the Shock itself, is CAUSED by AIR PRESSURE, above the Diaphragm, IN the Cap!!! 😱 That simple little hole in the Cap, relieves and levels the Air Pressure, that normally tried to PUSH the Shock Piston back down! I can't WAIT to try this!! 😎😀
Its not the air pushing it back down. The shock shaft and oil need to occupy the same space when shock is compressed thats why the bladder has room in the cap to move. The shaft going into the body and pushes a volume of oil out that expands the bladder into the cap. That pressure is relieved when load on shock is removed and thus the volume of oil from the bladder pushes the shaft back out a bit (rebound) When You've built 4 shocks perfectly they all rebound the same amount.
Joe, you put most of the RUclips RC Benchers to shame with your stock SCX10 II and your simple mods!!! so much so, I'm sold on it. I'll grab one as soon as they become available again. Thanks a lot and keep it real man!
Just wanted to mention for proper use of the diaphram you are supposed to fill the the upper reservoir with oil as well. If you notice when you compress your shock that it does not return to a fully rebound position. Adding oil on top of the diaphragm will alleviate that problem and allow the damper to act as it should. Cheers and keep the up the good work. I basically run a clone of your scx10.2 and LOVE IT!
that's what I thought because regular automobile shock they are completely extended when you buy them new and if you push them in they jump back to the full extension I thought they were supposed to
Very good video! Amazing can I ask, what is your stiffness of the springs? Front and rear? Also would the cap gasket for the slash work as well for the axial shocks? Very much appreciate it
Great vid as always, Joe! The quality of your close-up's while working on the shocks is awesome.. what cam do you use, please..? Greetings from Germany, Dirk
Seems the Team Associated shock rebuild kit #21190 is discontinued. Do you know of any other shock that has correct size diaphragms? I know my Slash 4x4 ultimate has same diaphragms in shocks but there way bigger. Wont fit the small scx10 shock
Whenever i fill my shocks with oil they hydro lock even if i leave a air cap. And i only half way fill it it defeats the purpose of having oil at all. Did i place the c clips on the shaft wrong? Youre supposed to have the opening of the c clip on opposite sides of eachother right?
Nice, buttery smooth. That's a good, simple mod! OK, I have to ask lol.... I've got 100s of those diaphragm off of Tamiya kits.... Would those work in some brands of performance shocks??
+Carmine Allocca The hole is for venting air betweeen compression and powerstroke. Having a hole allow a more consistent damping rate while no hole would force air to compress in the bladder chamber therefore it would result in faster rebound which is less desirable in crawling. You can use any bladder diaphragms as long as the fit the diameter but I think the tamiya ones are too big to fit.
JPRC I understand the hole... I'm surprised that manufacturers stopped including the hole. I was able to demonstrate how it works, by filling a shock, assembling, and then when I compressed the shock, but it stopped about 5mm from the top. The bladder had compressed the air in the cap.... The hole relieves that pressure, allowing full, smooth shock travel. 😉 It's really too bad that the Tamiya bladders are too big.... I have so many of them. I also have to find out what size springs will fit on Tamiya shocks. I've got some on my CC-01 and DT-02....
+Brian Port they are off of my old shocks laying around, it is nice to have but not a must. I have also made bump stop using nitro fuel tube before way way back.
good job very nice +++ I would like to know where to find AE Associated Shock Rebuild Kit RC18T car su tower hobbies there is out of stock I find that the reference AE Associated Shock Rebuild Kit RC18R 21192 is that it is compatible?
THANK YOU!! Although this is how I typically build my Shocks, *Mostly.......* that tiny bit about the small hole in the Shock Cap...... BRILLIANT!!! I've been in the Hobby for over 37 Years. The one annoying thing about building and Tuning Shocks is - if you get the right amount of Oil, and everything looks good.....
But then you test the Shock by pushing up the Shock, and it SPRINGS back down - WITHOUT the Spring installed!!!!
SOME People think that's "normal"..... but it certainly is NOT!! That fluid pressure actually INCREASES the Mechanical Spring Rate! Even with the lightest Oil. I CAN'T BELIEVE that I never saw that the pressure from the Shock itself, is CAUSED by AIR PRESSURE, above the Diaphragm, IN the Cap!!! 😱
That simple little hole in the Cap, relieves and levels the Air Pressure, that normally tried to PUSH the Shock Piston back down! I can't WAIT to try this!! 😎😀
PoorManRC it's supposed to push back down have you ever changed the shocks on a real car they push back down there supposed to that's how they work
Its not the air pushing it back down. The shock shaft and oil need to occupy the same space when shock is compressed thats why the bladder has room in the cap to move. The shaft going into the body and pushes a volume of oil out that expands the bladder into the cap. That pressure is relieved when load on shock is removed and thus the volume of oil from the bladder pushes the shaft back out a bit (rebound) When You've built 4 shocks perfectly they all rebound the same amount.
Joe, you put most of the RUclips RC Benchers to shame with your stock SCX10 II and your simple mods!!! so much so, I'm sold on it. I'll grab one as soon as they become available again. Thanks a lot and keep it real man!
thanks for the kind words...it is all about just sharing my RC experience and promote the hobby
that's a pretty inventive, cost effective upgrade.
exactly
Just wanted to mention for proper use of the diaphram you are supposed to fill the the upper reservoir with oil as well. If you notice when you compress your shock that it does not return to a fully rebound position. Adding oil on top of the diaphragm will alleviate that problem and allow the damper to act as it should. Cheers and keep the up the good work. I basically run a clone of your scx10.2 and LOVE IT!
Scale Science do you mean the fake reservoir? I am trying to picture what you mean
@@alpinestar37r1 he is talking about on top of the diaphragm, a drop or 2....but u have those holes now, probably wont work
that's what I thought because regular automobile shock they are completely extended when you buy them new and if you push them in they jump back to the full extension I thought they were supposed to
The air is supposed to be in there, they are an emulsion shock. Diaphragm will work also, it just depends on how you want the shock to dampen.
Great video. Love the trailing and the rig looks awesome.. every tip we can get to improve the rigs is a great thing. Thanks for sharing ..👍☺
Wow it moves like a full size rig now.
Nice mod.
Is there anywhere to get just the diaphragms?
Green slime is awesome! Nice crawl!
Dude, you sound exactly like Alishanmoa!!😂 😂 ✌️
That rebuild kit is discontinued. www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/21190-ASC21190-shock_rebuild_kit/
Very good video! Amazing can I ask, what is your stiffness of the springs? Front and rear? Also would the cap gasket for the slash work as well for the axial shocks? Very much appreciate it
This is a really cool tune.........thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻
sense Noone else will I'll comment great video got my thumbs up
haha..thanks for the support as always :)
Great vid as always, Joe! The quality of your close-up's while working on the shocks is awesome.. what cam do you use, please..? Greetings from Germany, Dirk
for close up image i use the sony mirror less a5100 with 3.5/50mm lens
JPRC THX, Joe!
Nice job! Will this work with the Scx10 ii stock plastic-bodied shocks from the RTR version as well? For reference, they're P/N AX80030.
Seems the Team Associated shock rebuild kit
#21190 is discontinued.
Do you know of any other shock that has correct size diaphragms?
I know my Slash 4x4 ultimate has same diaphragms in shocks but there way bigger.
Wont fit the small scx10 shock
Hi, does any one know of another rubber diaphragm that can be used? These shock re-build kits don't seem to common in the uk.
Nice brother 👍 👍. Thanks for sharing
thanks for the support as always brother
Whenever i fill my shocks with oil they hydro lock even if i leave a air cap. And i only half way fill it it defeats the purpose of having oil at all. Did i place the c clips on the shaft wrong? Youre supposed to have the opening of the c clip on opposite sides of eachother right?
that's how I do my shocks nice
yup...thats it
Nice, buttery smooth. That's a good, simple mod! OK, I have to ask lol.... I've got 100s of those diaphragm off of Tamiya kits....
Would those work in some brands of performance shocks??
+Carmine Allocca
The hole is for venting air betweeen compression and powerstroke. Having a hole allow a more consistent damping rate while no hole would force air to compress in the bladder chamber therefore it would result in faster rebound which is less desirable in crawling.
You can use any bladder diaphragms as long as the fit the diameter but I think the tamiya ones are too big to fit.
JPRC
I understand the hole... I'm surprised that manufacturers stopped including the hole. I was able to demonstrate how it works, by filling a shock, assembling, and then when I compressed the shock, but it stopped about 5mm from the top. The bladder had compressed the air in the cap....
The hole relieves that pressure, allowing full, smooth shock travel. 😉
It's really too bad that the Tamiya bladders are too big.... I have so many of them.
I also have to find out what size springs will fit on Tamiya shocks. I've got some on my CC-01 and DT-02....
Great vid bro! Where can I find those bump stops you install on the shaft in your video?
+Brian Port they are off of my old shocks laying around, it is nice to have but not a must. I have also made bump stop using nitro fuel tube before way way back.
Thanks for the info...again great vid as I'm in the middle of building an scx10 ii right now
nice!! thanks for the tips
Why can’t I find this. Are they not available anymore
yeah..looks like sold out everywhere
Just look for 10mm Shock Diaphragm Seals. Could be for any Vehicle, as long as it's a 10mm Diaphragm.... 😊😉
What weight oil did you put in the front? You mention 20 WT for the rear.
where did you get them alloy silver shock relocaters
Thank You! i like it.
are you using 20% for front shock too ?
Did u use 20w for all 4 shocks
Please the Traxxas 1765 Silicone Diaphragms, can work too? I didn't find the same like you use ..
+Ricardo Rampazzo G I don't think so
They are 12mm. How wide are the Team Associated diaphragms?
hey great video. just wondering if anybody has tried this with a Traxxas bladder? that's all I have on hand and want to try this
N.L CRAWLER i haven't tried but as Ling as the diameter is around 12mm it should work
The oil for the suspension is included?
yes..
Hi , will Traxxas (#2362) rebuild kit - Diaphrams fit 10.2 stock?
maybe the mini revo
what I meant was maybe the mini revo ones will work
Back ground music needs to go when you are talking or turn down. Good vid though.
20 weight shock oil all the way around?
What associated kit was that
What's the point only thing I see is you using less oil cuz you're not using the piggyback
thats what I absolutely hate about axial shocks , without the diaphragm they ALLWAYS have air in them wich basically gives them 0 dampening
exactly.. most people would overfill these tiny shocks if they just followed instruction and cause them to leak when shaft displaces the oil
good job very nice +++
I would like to know where to find AE Associated Shock Rebuild Kit RC18T car su tower hobbies there is out of stock
I find that the reference AE Associated Shock Rebuild Kit RC18R 21192 is that it is compatible?
No the one with T won’t fit
Why you playing music while having us hear something. Not so good man. Thats like wiping before shitting