ULTRA Bright 100W Studio LED Light from Old PSU
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- ✅ 100W 97+ CRI LED - bit.ly/4cc1IaH
Parts (AliExpress / Amzn):
DC 24V 6A power supply - bit.ly/3vb6C7l / geni.us/UDhOG5P
Voltage booster - bit.ly/43cwEDS / geni.us/fOCVK0
Fan speed controller - bit.ly/3dnW23T / geni.us/YBrIywd
Step down converter - bit.ly/4a6gYUU / geni.us/PcR1Je4
AMD cooler - bit.ly/3qI1GRs / geni.us/ERylPD
2K Ohm variable resistor - bit.ly/48PQ82j / geni.us/deGF8r
2K Ohm linear potentiometer - bit.ly/3QLh4HA / geni.us/k6926p3
Other parts:
Light mount adapter - bit.ly/49UBQ1S / geni.us/MLbmAQD
Bowens mount adapter - bit.ly/3QLHh8P / geni.us/Aupkc
Softbox w/ Bowens mount - bit.ly/3QFZO6s / geni.us/BlIgO
Light tripod - bit.ly/3UhEozI / geni.us/Yby9c
Thermal paste - bit.ly/4addH6l / geni.us/H4TpXBv
Temperature conductive glue - bit.ly/3wQM70c / geni.us/H4TpXBv
M3 x 5mm spacers - bit.ly/3DpqQMo / geni.us/pSHrpM
M3 x 10mm screws - bit.ly/3BLsZRu / geni.us/4G12ms
M3 nuts - bit.ly/3BT3VIl / geni.us/gPLyP
Steel mesh - bit.ly/3LoZvfm / geni.us/JggZ
Tools:
TS101 soldering iron - bit.ly/3HUzrI9 / geni.us/owyDm5G
Wire stripper - bit.ly/4dG6Jt2 / geni.us/6epIs
Multimeter - bit.ly/3vS2aKG / geni.us/UmrhyYk
Heat gun - bit.ly/3SyxaYX / geni.us/spT5M
Cordless drill - bit.ly/4bZg5PN / geni.us/A5AZi
Drill bit set - bit.ly/3S3i6zC / geni.us/ktAK1M
Center punch - bit.ly/3xslc8u / geni.us/o5WBEwB
Hole saw set - bit.ly/3YZU8tg / geni.us/hONP
Helping hand - bit.ly/3B9mIgt / geni.us/Yyqyte
Hi everyone!
In this video we are going to build this powerful LED light using a high quality COB LED and a power supply unit from an old computer. This is a highly versatile LED light due to the brightness adjustment knob and the option to mount a softbox for more pleasant lighting. Since the COB LED that is used for the light has a really high CRI rating of over 97 and a color temperature of daylight, it almost matches the sunlight and produces true colors unlike my previously used cheap LED bulbs.
So the first thing we will need is a power supply unit. I got mine from an old computer that wasn’t functioning properly. Since we’ll only need the outer case, it is best to use a non-working one. I also recommend you use a PSU that has ventilation holes on the sides and a hole for the fan to allow for as much air movement as possible.
To power the LED I am using this DC 24V power supply that can deliver up to 6 amps. Since the LED that I will be using works from 34 volts, we will need this voltage booster module to supply the required voltage to it. The two blue variable resistors on the board adjust the current and voltage on the output leads. Since the LED produces quite a lot of heat at full power, I will be using this aluminium cooler with a fan to keep the LED at a lower temperature. I chose this AMD cooler used for computer CPUs since it is relatively small and quiet and will fit inside the case perfectly.
The LED that I chose for this project was supplied by a store on Aliexpress which specializes in high quality cob LEDs and LED strips. They provide great prices and global shipping. So the LED that I am using is this ultra bright 100W daylight white COB LED that has a color rendering index of over 97, meaning the colors that are produced by this light are very accurate and almost identical to sunlight. The light comes with a plastic mount and as you can see the LED is relatively small but incredibly powerful for its size.
As you can see, the light is incredibly bright and gives off a color temperature similar to daylight. And once the LED warms up, we can see the fan spinning at maximum speed but still barely making any noise.
Since we are using this high quality LED, the objects look as if they were lit by daylight, making this a great studio light for filming or photography because of the great color rendition. It also does not flicker on camera unlike my previously used cheap LED bulb light, as seen in the comparison.
Overall I am really happy the way these lights turned out and I hope you give this build a try!
Feel free to leave any comments below and I’ll see you on the next video!
Thanks for watching!
![State of Play | September 24, 2024 [ENGLISH]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fVs0suPHAX8/mqdefault.jpg)
Brilliant DIY Project. By the way, aluminum cpu heat sink alloy is very strong. Everyone assumes it’s soft and ends up shearing off screws in it. Aluminum CPU heat sinks should be drilled and tapped. Also, they now make LED drivers little step up from 12 V to about 40 V. That will allow you to use a 12 V rail and not have to use a boost circuit. Then again, using a boost circuit as a driver gives you flexibility as far as dimming control. You could also buy LED drivers that have integrated dimming control. Anyway, Lots of ways to do this project. I really enjoyed your approach because you use just about every single DIY circuitboard you could possibly buy.
I just wanted to drop a comment that opening any power supply is incredibly dangerous. The large can looking things soldered to the PCB are super capacitors, and people have literally died doing this. Those caps can hold their charge for a LONG time, so even if it's been powered off for a while you can still get a fatal zap. Most modern PSU's have protections built in, like drain resistors, but this is something that absolutely should have been mentioned in the video. Somebody, or the family of somebody, who is following your instructions who is hurt or killed would have a pretty solid case to find you at fault because you didn't warn of the danger.
Found the NPC. Just cannot help but fall to the compulsion to outburst electrical danger at the merest whiff of electricity...
Not helping like you think you are... how do you think the device this is viewed on, is powered? You've already missed "firstsies" on the viewer by several years involving hundreds of dangerous situations by the time they can find the video and have the patience to read and understand what you wrote.
Loser.
Also discharging them improperly can be dangerous, I’ve accidentally welded capacitors into a short trying to make them safe to handle. Some capacitors have enough juice that connecting the terminals with something conductive (like your body) is enough to melt metals and the physical size of the capacitor is not always an indicator of how much energy it can have.
Amazingly good work... Only one concerned it's the flicker for video!!!
I'm proud of your precious work!!!
Useful video that can be applied to different type of lights, such as stage lights in my case.
Very cool project. I did very similar lights using old studio photography flashlights with bowens mount. I removed bulbs and electronics and retrofitted COB LED. I like how they look and they have great ergonomics. The only drawback is that they are very bulky since back in a day studio lights were much bigger than LED lights nowadays. I figured out how to you can control the brightness using a microcontroller and was thinking of making them controllable via BT or WiFi using ESP32 module.
Thanks! That was actually my idea as well at first, to re-use an old studio light to have the COB LED fitted inside, but it was quite difficult to source any. And as you said, they are quite bulky. Sounds awesome to have the brightness adjusted using a microcontroller.
Amazingly good work... Only one concerned it's the flicker for video!!!
I'm proud of your precious work!!!
Marvellous work, very clean DIY. Congrats.
Thank you so much!
the best dIY i saw so far about Pro light low budget ! well done for it
You just raw dog that power supply, damn
literally...amazing 🌻🤍
Thank you
what a genius! keep it up good sir
Very simple, I'm gonna build 3 or 4 in the next ..... 3 or 4 years 😂😂😂😂
Yeah, that is really cool!
Super! Thank you very much!
Wonderful DIY project LED. Would you sell?
How do you know wich resistors you need ? The 103 should be a 10k but you used 6k combined.
And if i have a 104/100kohm resistor would i need to use 3x 20kohm ?
this heatsink looks smaller than i expected for a 100 watt led, are your lights still working ok, do they run at a reasonable temperature?
Very nice video.
what would be the overal changes of resistor and power supply to adapt the exact same build with 200W or 300W LED ?
Nice job
Amazingly good video. Very clear and good descriptions. Now if only I could be bothered to make one. How much did it all cost?
Much appreciated, thank you. Since I had some of the parts laying around, the main cost is the LED chip, of course. I would say around 80-100$ for each light.
how much did this cost to make??
Can you do a similar strobe LED light?
Since I don't feel the need for a strobe LED, I won't be making one but it shouldn't be difficult to integrate a strobe controller or high frequency switch to the light.
Good one. Thank you! Can you provide how much you spent on this build?
Thanks! It cost me around $80 per light.
Perfect
Very Nice !!
Thanks!
super cool vid
Thanks! Much appreciated.
I can't access the link you provided. Can you give me the product or proper link to purchase it? I will be grateful to you
Hi, I will try adding amazon links if that helps.
CRI is not a good unit of measurement for color rendition. TM30 is better, which is what high end brands measure. CRI may be 97, but TM30 doesn't touch 90. These AliExpress "grow lights" are resells of leds that didn't meet bin requirements
Why don't you use that actuall computer power supply, it give you better output power delivery
Because it's only 12V, and takes up a lot of space
Brilliant job❤️❤️❤️
Thank you.
Hey! Can you do this with BOTH an LED light AND a Flash tube for flash photography!?!?
Hey! I'm sure that would be doable.
@@DonnyTerek I’d love to chat about if that is possible!
@@westleyleonstudios I can only think of the possibility of it being doable but I wouldn't put my hands on a project like that since I don't have use for it.
@@DonnyTerek If I invested in the items for you to make it so you can make the video for content - how much would that be?
@@westleyleonstudios I'm sorry to say but I wouldn't tackle a project like this due to many other in queue.
why u dont buy powersupply 36v and dimmer . 24=>36v=>12v??
Since the LED operates from around 34-37 Volts, it is easier to use the boost converter to increase the voltage of the 24V power supply to have the full range of the LED rather than a 36V supply that you can't regulate below 36V.
@@DonnyTerek If using a 36v power supply and a convert 12v low voltage circuit for the fan, is the cost cheaper
@@benhviencapcuu3960 yes but you don't have the option to dim the LED.
Bro one question how did you set the voltage of boost converter?
Hi, the voltage is set by adjusting the potentiometers as shown in the diagram of the video.
😍😍😍😍😍
❤❤🤷♂🤷♂
Hi.
just a heads up. there is an imposter of you that is a scammer. Check out my comment on the custom boombox video, the one with a subwoofer.
This DIY is not for me, a beginner.
fucking awesome work man!!!
Guys please be careful psus are dangerous so please at least watch a tutorial on what not to do before opening it.
Top Like
Well this is honestly cool and all, but with the amount of money you put into it you could of just bought one and saved yourself the time and hassle of building it and waiting for all the parts to come in the mail.
Yes true if you build such a small one
Yes, I definitely agree. But I wanted to have a compact unit with the integrated power supply, that's why I decided to make my own.
can u make them and sell?
Hi! I am planning to keep these for myself for studio lighting.