Boat Anchoring 101: Preparing Your Anchor Rode | Ep. 30
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2018
- Check out the first of a series of videos we are doing on anchoring. This video helps you get prepared, with instructions on how to properly mark the length of your anchor rode, splicing between chain and line, and examples of using snubbers.
Also, check out our blog at: www.lifefourpointzero.com
And, you'll find us on Instagram at: / lifefourpointzero
Reference links:
Plastic insert markers for chain: www.defender.com/product.jsp?...|2276108|2276124|2226887|2276131|2276135&id=535983, www.accastillage-diffusion.co...
Plastic ribbon markers for line: www.defender.com/product3.jsp...|2276108|2276124|2226887|2276131|2276135&id=4409807
how to tie a rolling hitch: • Learn How To Tie A Rol...
3 strand line to chain splice: www.sw-marine.co.uk/acatalog/3..., • DIY: 3 Strand to Chain...
8 plait line to chain splice: www.sw-marine.co.uk/acatalog/8...
Music from Epidemic Sound. Tracks used:
- Acoustic Rythm 11 - by Stefan Mothander
- Broken Water (Instrumental Version) - by Craig Reever
- Earthbound 2 - by Joachim Nilsson
![Gunna - back in the a [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oBrbejOHjLw/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video
Now I understand about snubbers. Just bought 32 ft trawler with all chain rode. Alot to learn
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with your new trawler!
Marking chain: There's an old color coded system: Red, Yellow, Blue, White, Green. This is easily remembered with the pneumonic "rub your ba//s with grease"! Then it repeats as red red, yellow yellow, blue blue etc.
By the way, my cousins sold you Sea Rose (Steve and Chris McPherson). Chris gave me your RUclips info and I love your channel! I'm sailing around Corfu then the Cyclades May/June 202 so I've been watching your informative vids! Thank you! Aloha from Hawai'i.
Wow - Christy is your cousin?? I was in grade school with her!
Thanks for watching … are you sailing in Greece this coming summer?
Well done video, describing & explaining proper setup. Thank you.
You are welcome - thanks so much for the comment!
You are 100% correct on you method for calculation the scope based on water depth alone!
. In the USA we have a problem with many 'anchoring guides' that incorrectly suggest you should us the distance from the sea bottom to the anchor roller height x the scope ratio you want on the day you are anchoring. They all seem to be copying each other and not doing their own research! This is wrong for so many reasons. All the UK (RYA) and others clearly use the water depth alone.
I believe this happened from a miss reading of the recommendations from the USCG guide ( a rewrite in the 80's I think). Where they are suggesting adding the roller height off the water AFTER calculating the correct scope based on water depth.
Why does any of this matter? If you are the only boat in the anchorage then not much unless there is a shallow area you could drift over at high tide from wind action at slack water and run aground as the tide goes out.
BUT if you are in a crowed or restricted anchorage all boats need to have similar scope. When that tide turns, twice a day, all the boats will swing 180 deg and if boats have vastly different scope a boat that was well astern of you on a long scope it will now be right on top of you when the tide changes. Like this uploads.disquscdn.com/images/66e9af8c51bc3bb9d6b81c37d5f27a7bf9d5b4046e5eb793fd8110637a6b08d9.jpg
How can the scope vary so much with just the roller height some may ask?
We want all boats in an anchorage to be using similiar scope, so in 10' of water at 3:1 you use 3x10=30+4' bow ht, 34' total. BUT using the Incorrect system (10'depth +4')x 3=42' total , where this gets rediculious is a power boat with a 10' bow ht is (10'+10')x3= 60'total
So if you had say a steel boat with a hawser pipe built into the bow where it comes out close to the waterline they would have a different calculation for scope with the incorrect system than the same boat that had a yacht type the anchor roller on the rail say 10' off the water.
I could go on and on.
I know you as the producer of this video are well aware of this issue but for the newer 'boater' whose first boat has an anchor windlass, it's so easy to get miss lead. When I grew up sailing in the east coast of uk anchoring in shallow water with 15' tides , no anchor windlass ( with or with out counters!) you had to know what you were doing as all the chain was raised and lowered by bare hand and dealing with twice as much anchor rode on a cold and windy night was not a fun task!
Cheers Warren
Here are a couple of references
www.rya.org.uk/newsevents/e-newsletters/inbrief/Pages/things-to-think-about-when-anchoring.aspx
The incorrect boat us guide
www.boatus.org/study-guide/navigation/anchoring/
And
Review this video from Skip Novack in Antarctic about anchoring
ruclips.net/video/rYfoki6vW-M/видео.html
He clearly says use the depth of water from the depth sounder and multiply by the scope ratio he needs.
He never says " now let's add the bow roller height to depth"'. He has to rely on anchoring correctly or he dies.
All good points Warren, thanks for the adding your perspective. And I do recall days in the pre-windlass past when raising the anchor by hand was a challenge... thank goodness for the progress of technology!
Most people just don't add roller height.
Thank you! Just a wonderfully presented and informative video. Well done 👏 ✔ 👍
Thanks very much Ron!
Watch your videos over and over so informative..tks
Glad you find them helpful!
Good informative video, I'm just setting up an Anchor & Rode system for my Macgregor 26m so thanks for sharing.
You're welcome... good luck!
Good video. One item: some say to include the distance from the water to your anchor roller as "depth" in the scope calculation. Thanks for the info, Merry Christmas to you!
Hi felix. Yes I have also heard others include this additional distance in the calculation of scope. And it is likely more accurate to do so. For us, we often put out a few extra meters of chain, beyond the specific scope we are looking for, just as a cushion, so this likely makes up for that difference to the anchor roller. Thanks for the feedback!
@@LifeFourPointZero Anchoring is usually a bit of both art and science anyway, depending on wind, etc. Again, great info and thanks for sharing. I hope you get back on the boat soon; looks like your residence from the background!!
@@jfelix7650 Yes, we are on the boat 6 months and off 6 months. We still love winter since we are snow skiers - we will be back on the boat in less than a month. Can't wait!
THANK YOU, THANK YOU for beginning with terms!
You are very welcome Holly!
Like your videos. Precise and to the point. And You may want to add Anchor Alarm thing )))
Thanks Smile, Smile!
Great video. Thanks a lot
Thanks glad you liked it!
I see lots of videos about anchoring, scope etc. Hardly any on swing room! im good on the anchoring part - if you are not sure letting out more is a plus.. until it comes to swing room! in theory if you are all taking the same scope setup and similar boats etc you all swing the same.. unit! For scope we started using 50ft+2x depth as it follows the catenary curve better and helps with deep anchoring. Overall i think people need to do more anchoring! its a MAJOR safety tool and mooring balls are in theory fall security - what if one snaps? You have no clue if it will as its not your gear (danger alert!! always anchor alarm!!) Also - i think a wind alarm is also very important - if the wind really kicks up over night that is an uncontrolled force and what will cause your drag. Tides etc are all controllable. When sleeping, if wind >15kts = ALARM! i need a tool like that :) we dragged due to too much boat on an anchor and surprise wind. our SUP being tossed was our luck alarm that night.
Good thoughts. When we are in a crowded anchorage, we often take an evening cruise around in our dinghy to ask how much scope nearby boats have out. We especially like to do this if we expect significant winds or wind shifts. I have a built-in wind alarm since I sleep so lightly. When the rigging starts shaking with increased winds, I often wake up. Still, alarming on that is probably a safer bet! Thanks.
Scope should be calculated from the bow roller as has been noted.
In strong wind a 10 foot snubber does not provide enough stretch. 30-50 feet is more appropriate.
A soft shackle is an ideal method to attach the snubber to the chain.
Thanks for adding your perspective John. On the soft shackle, can you elaborate on how you use it? Do you make a loop in the end of the snubber and the soft shackle connects between that and a link in the chain?
Yes just splice a loop in the end of the snubber. The soft shackle passes through this loop and also through a chain link. My experience with a rolling hitch is sooner or later it will slip, usually at the worst time. A Prusik loop is better if you want to stay with a knot, but a soft shackle is quicker, easier, kind on the chain will never slip or come undone. It also passes over the bow roller without any risk of damage.
@@johnsmith4066 Awesome idea! I'll have to give that a try next season.
This is the Ms. of the couple! John - could you send us a link to a picture if you have an example of something that has worked? We have tried random hooks but as the boat jerks in big swells we HAVE had those come un-done. We have sometimes doubled up on snubber lines, putting back-up snubbers and their corresponding knots on the chain further down in the water and bringing these back to a different cleat. Certainly in a huge blow, we would bridle the snubber onto multiple cleats to distribute the force. And, in alarmingly high winds, we would even rig up supporting/back-up lines that actually looped around the base of the mast in case a cleat or fairlead busts ... purely as a last - safe the boat - position.
Great video explaining the whole process and reasoning.
How about a video on electric usage and generation for your boat. Do you have a spreadsheet to help explain or share? Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback and the suggestion, Frank. On the generation side we do have a video on how we approached solar panel setup and planning, 'Tips for Cruising with Solar', ruclips.net/video/zh-u9giyP2A/видео.html. We plan to do an update on how our solar is working out, as this was the first time we had tried flexible panels, and we'll plan to discuss the electrical usage side of things too. Fair winds!
Very good informative and helpful video. I need to do the same method of splicing the rope to the chain. Can you tell me the size (diameter) of the rope you use. Is it 18mm or 20mm? It really needs to be a little bigger than the whole in the windlass but I cannot get that whole measured. So l am waiting for your reply with respect to the size of the rope. I have the same windlass as you have in my "Finesse". She is a SO 440.
Hi Kyriakos. We use 16mm 8 plait line, spliced to 10mm chain. That's the size of gypsy that came with the factory windlass. Good luck with your SO44. I'm guessing your in Greece? We will be there in the later half of the summer. Fair winds!
Love your videos very well explained. How do you like your new 440 I was thinking of getting a 410
Hi Dave. Thanks, glad you liked the videos. We have really enjoyed the 440. It performs well, in light or heavy winds, is very comfortable to live aboard, and we like the innovative design features that make it easy to move around the boat, including the inclined decks. It's a solid boat.
Thank you
You’re very welcome Luis.
Is a scrubber line used as a s/v version of an anchor stopper (to prevent loss of one’s chain and anchor in case the chain parts or the brake/windlass fails)? If not what is its purpose? Thanks for your vids, much appreciated.
Hi. It has two related purposes. First, to take the pressure off the windlass, especially the constant shock loads it can get when there's choppy weather overnight. Second, to give a bit of stretch to the overall anchor system, if you use a nylon line as the snubber, to reduce the stress on the boat. We now have two snubbers. A short one as shown in the video for everyday use. And a 'storm' snubber that is about 10m long that gives a lot of stretch during wave action. Good luck!
good vid! better if snubber was bridle and led to both bow cleats?
Hi Brett. Yes I agree, and we in fact have started using a bridle recently. It spreads the load nicely across the two cleats. But we have found it takes carefully designing and adjusting to avoid chafing, for us in particular, along the channel for the anchor chain.
A nylon snubber gives excellent reduction of shock loading on an anchor, but not at this short length that you're using. A snubber needs to be about the length of the boat. To get that much length out the snubber rope can be run back along the deck to the jib winch or similar strong point. Better having it aboard that in the water. But making it off at the bow like that misses out on a huge advantage. And painting chain is a bad idea for marking it. It's effective to see, but make it very costly when you come to re-galvanize the chain. Regalvanizing costs about a third the price of new chain, until you put paint on it, then the cost of stripping that paint off will about double the cost of the galvanizing. There's plenty of other ways to mark chain, but paint for this reason is one of the worst.
Not relevant to me and my 30 foot sailboat. I don't have a windless and don't need one, since I don't use chain, only rope, except for 2-3 feet from the anchors. I use 4 anchors; one at each bow and one at each stern (catamaran).