If you only knew who just watched this....He is at awe. He's doing it now and with much thanks for the demo. No argument here. Maybe he'll show it on prime time. Thanks.
As a suggestion, rather than simply nipping off the wire after twisting, you instead bend the last section over to make the wire less likely to snag your skin. Then snip off the excess. This is the way that it is done in aviation when safety wiring components.
This is sage advice. Loved the video, but as someone who’s learned the hard way, I cringed when I saw that snipped wire sticking out at the end. Left like that it could cause a nasty scrape or cut.
Thanks for trusting us with your boating education, Blizz! Yes, there's so much to learn about each one. Thankfully some of the skills are transferable. We appreciate you watching, and we're ramping up our videos for the season, so make sure to subscribe to our channel so you don't miss any!
Skip the wire, and use a split ring for seizing! Place the rope in the shackle, then add the split ring on the non-threaded side of the shackle. Screw the pin in. Once that's assembled, thread the split ring through the hole in the pin. You will never want to use wire again!!! The split ring is tool-free, and completely reusable.
Last year we had a local boat with stainless steel chain suddenly fail. they happened to be on board and saved the boat. Stainless under water is not reliable thats why underwater thruhulls are bronze or marlon ( check abyc standards ) We have used quality galvanized steel shackles and chain for 30 years.
Lol, That is the biggest load of bullshit I have EVER read, I would suggest the "stainless" chain that failed was owner error, austenitic 316 stainless is very similar to that of low carbon steel, being, It might work harden a touch but only when plastic deformation has been involved, and that is extremely unlikely in anchor chain, every single bit of kit that needs to be 100% reliable on a rig, (which I've worked on my entire life) is 316 stainless, even under water control valves and all hydraulic tubing which cops a hammering, If you have second hand information from some dipshit, or just don't know what you're talking about, maybe just shut TFU, and don't spread BS.
You also should have mentioned that another good way to increase holding power even with just a short amount of chain is to use a catenary weight that you slide down anchor line. The further down the line you put the catenary weight, the better the holding power. .
There is no substitute for greater scope. All of these anchor weight accessories (kellets, angels, etc.) have been tested and shown to be ineffective and counterproductive. Let out more chain and rode instead.
Hmm, Walter. Not sure where you're seeing that. In the closed captions? If so, that was probably an auto transcript by RUclips. This video was posted well before we started manually editing the transcripts. If I get time, I'll go back and revise. If it's something else, do let me know. I'm not seeing it.
@@boatus When I first viewed that video, there was superimposed text to match the audio. I did not purposely invoke closed captioning. Revisiting that video just now and that text is not visible. I understand your confusion. Not sure what gremlins are at work here.
Stainless chain and or shackles on anchor system is only promoted by those who sell anchors to those who dont know! Seizing and shackle Pin making wide with skin cutting boat scratching seems foolish. Finish seizing inside shackle with a loop back on itself. Grap end from side with pointer note and roll. Why not back splice direct to chain eliminating shackle, eye and seizing wire. Oh thats right less sales. Yes im annoyed by this video.
Agree with everything you said. The thimble/eye splice is for the bitter end. Splice rode direct to galvanized chain for a smooth transition with fewer fail points and be done. 👊🏼
If you only knew who just watched this....He is at awe. He's doing it now and with much thanks for the demo. No argument here. Maybe he'll show it on prime time.
Thanks.
Thanks to the person who watched this. Glad it was helpful!
As a suggestion, rather than simply nipping off the wire after twisting, you instead bend the last section over to make the wire less likely to snag your skin. Then snip off the excess. This is the way that it is done in aviation when safety wiring components.
Great suggestion. Thanks for sharing.
This is sage advice. Loved the video, but as someone who’s learned the hard way, I cringed when I saw that snipped wire sticking out at the end. Left like that it could cause a nasty scrape or cut.
Great video, i’m 19 and still learning lol. Bikes, Cars, Boats… ALL different sports with different requirements🤣
Thanks for trusting us with your boating education, Blizz! Yes, there's so much to learn about each one. Thankfully some of the skills are transferable. We appreciate you watching, and we're ramping up our videos for the season, so make sure to subscribe to our channel so you don't miss any!
Not sure why you don't put the twist on the side of the shackle so sharp twist isn't sticking out
Nice! I’ll be using a 5 ft length of 1/4” chain and some seized shackles for my 16 closed cabin sailboat. Thanks for this great video!
Thanks for watching, Claude!
Skip the wire, and use a split ring for seizing! Place the rope in the shackle, then add the split ring on the non-threaded side of the shackle. Screw the pin in. Once that's assembled, thread the split ring through the hole in the pin. You will never want to use wire again!!! The split ring is tool-free, and completely reusable.
Thanks for sharing your tip!
Last year we had a local boat with stainless steel chain suddenly fail. they happened to be on board and saved the boat. Stainless under water is not reliable thats why underwater thruhulls are bronze or marlon ( check abyc standards ) We have used quality galvanized steel shackles and chain for 30 years.
Excellent point, tomodore!
Bronze thuhulls dont have a 20,000 pound boat pulling on them.....
Yes Donkey bronze thru hulls do not have 20,000 lb boat pulling on them. What’s your point?
Lol, That is the biggest load of bullshit I have EVER read, I would suggest the "stainless" chain that failed was owner error, austenitic 316 stainless is very similar to that of low carbon steel, being, It might work harden a touch but only when plastic deformation has been involved, and that is extremely unlikely in anchor chain, every single bit of kit that needs to be 100% reliable on a rig, (which I've worked on my entire life) is 316 stainless, even under water control valves and all hydraulic tubing which cops a hammering, If you have second hand information from some dipshit, or just don't know what you're talking about, maybe just shut TFU, and don't spread BS.
You also should have mentioned that another good way to increase holding power even with just a short amount of chain is to use a catenary weight that you slide down anchor line. The further down the line you put the catenary weight, the better the holding power. .
Thanks for your comment, Peter.
There is no substitute for greater scope. All of these anchor weight accessories (kellets, angels, etc.) have been tested and shown to be ineffective and counterproductive. Let out more chain and rode instead.
I di learn something today.:) And Thank you.
Thanks for watching, Michael! I always say every day I learn something is a good day.
Did you throw your editor overboard? Is not that line called an anchor "rode"?
Hmm, Walter. Not sure where you're seeing that. In the closed captions? If so, that was probably an auto transcript by RUclips. This video was posted well before we started manually editing the transcripts. If I get time, I'll go back and revise. If it's something else, do let me know. I'm not seeing it.
@@boatus When I first viewed that video, there was superimposed text to match the audio. I did not purposely invoke closed captioning. Revisiting that video just now and that text is not visible. I understand your confusion. Not sure what gremlins are at work here.
@@Wadolu27 OK, it's the closed captioning. I'll go back and update the text file when I get a minute. Thanks for the heads up!
how do you tie chain to anchor you repeat same?
Good question - yes, the procedure is the same at both ends of the chain.
What size chain for a 17' boat and how does one attach the anchor? Thanks
For a 17-foot boat, 5/16 chain is normally plenty strong.
Stainless chain and or shackles on anchor system is only promoted by those who sell anchors to those who dont know! Seizing and shackle Pin making wide with skin cutting boat scratching seems foolish. Finish seizing inside shackle with a loop back on itself. Grap end from side with pointer note and roll. Why not back splice direct to chain eliminating shackle, eye and seizing wire. Oh thats right less sales. Yes im annoyed by this video.
Agree with everything you said. The thimble/eye splice is for the bitter end. Splice rode direct to galvanized chain for a smooth transition with fewer fail points and be done. 👊🏼