👍👍wish I would've found u guys 5 years ago when I bought a couple s300s for my trucks...or Maybe u weren't around yet...wish I could trade them in for your holsets...
I bought a used P7100 and one stud that holds the governor springs is bent, can a guy buy the governor assembly ? I've searched for major hours online but no luck, you would swear I was looking for nuclear codes. thanks great channel !
Probably not… it’s like building a numbers matching mopar. Your best bet would be to contact places that rebuild the pumps and hope they will sell it too you vs them keeping it on hand for situations like your in.
I have a question.. I have a new crate 4BT after the old got a crack in the block. I swapped everything onto the new long block, has a P pump, and the only thing ever done to it was the star wheel was turned all the way forward. Not by me.. other than that the the tamper proof screw hasn’t ever been removed ect.. running H1C turbo. Should I back that star wheel some to get boost quicker? That’s a lot of info to take in, but I think that’s what the issue is as far as torque when pulling a trailer.
Taking the tension off the spring will increase torque per rpm. I would move forward with loosening the spring up too when it starts to get a light haze under load :)
@@daniellaverty1359 then you would want to tighten up the spring but I would do a small spring adjustment while also backing pre boost out. If it is a pre boost issue or low boost issue adjusting the star wheel is only going to do so much. Where pre boost can help out a lot.
@@savagefabrication795 I truly appreciate you answering my questions. Seems like you know your stuff on tuning, so take it as a compliment that I’m asking you and not someone else. I appreciate your time.
94-98 12v's take it from the turbo. but you can take it from the manifold. it is pretty common to get rid of the big hard line and clean up the engine bay and just take the boost reference from the head.
your talking afc and say "K so you take this guy off" and your brother thinks yummy cheese dip, lol it's cool the editing is like a window into how your brother's mind works. probably don't even know what I'm talking about.
can someone please explain why everyone is so excited about turbo charging ??? super charging should better because it doesn't restrict the exhaust. -am i missing something???
@@garygeer7646 if I had to take a shot in the dark guess it would be either low fuel pressure below 900 rpms for the idle springs in the governor housing are out of calibration and not increasing rack position to maintain a idle.
@savagefabrication795 thanks for the reply. I took governor spring out. I the idle spring on one side was not mounted and the base washer was on the side of the spring. I put it back properly but still have idle issue. It was suggested that the timing is off. Gear slippage. I'm looking at that now.
@@garygeer7646 maybe but they typically still run they just run like garbage. Do you know the hight of the gov spring retaining nut on each side? Too lose or unbalanced can cause problems.
If you have a P-pump truck & understand the AFC function & want to be able to tune your engine "On-The-Fly" like the Electronically-Controlled engines but want to keep the reliability of an all-mechanical engine, AFC Live is your "Golden Ticket"! 🙏🏻😇🙏🏻
I agree with west texas. And for street driving I think the afc live is the best setup next to just dialing in the afc manually on the pump. It is fun to get to make adjustments inside, and note the results. What I found happened though and this is not a diss or a negative thing, but once you get it dialed in, you honestly won’t really ever touch it again except for to show off what it does or if you change parts and need a new tune up. Reducing pressure to the afc diaphragm is the same is taking your foot off the throttle some, it’s just more convenient I guess idk haha. Not a diss. Just how it works. For street driven trucks I like it. Their new version is extremely small compared to the old one and i have a mounting plate that does take a little extra work, but locates it in the cup holder location in the dash to get it out from the lower kick panel. I would rather people have afc live to make tuning easier so the truck is tuned for the street as well then maxed or gutted afc setups that smoke excessively (not anti smoke, just anti smoke in view on public roads) on the race track it’s game on. Now for racing use. The attitude adjuster is by far the most consistent and easy way to select the maximum amount of fuel you want to use. If your goal is to run 10’s and you run a 9, back down the attitude adjuster until it’s a 10 and it will do it every time. Go to a track that you want to run a 9? Turn it back to the 9 sec setting and it will do it. But again it is a convenience thing (I have/had afc live on my daily driver and a attitude adjuster on the dyno queen) I could do the same thing that the attitude adjuster does by moving the fuel plate back manually. Or moving it forward manually. Most performance pump shops will mark fuel plate location settings as cc’s max. So you can make decisions on how much fuel you need based on the competition or the grade your going against. Ultimately where the rack is in its travel is still decided upon by the throttle itself.
@@savagefabrication795 👍👍ten four man...I actually have had AFC live for a couple years.......I like it for being able to get rid of smoke for a daily driver....now my only problem is finding the right turbo combination... as mentioned previously, I've tried the S300 62/68/12 and 63/68/12 ... Both on a 12 valve and VP44 Truck... With different size injectors in each as well...and the AFC live and a edge comp box respectively...the Borg Warner turbos are pigs below 2000 rpms I've found unfortunately...it was false advertising from a vendor and me being nieve and me being unknowledgeable and uninformed I suppose...but anyway... recently bought a bone stock fuel 02 truck that the "kid" had a Fleece cheetah on....took it off and put it on my slightly modded '97 with the AFC live , different In jectors and delivery valves...I'll have to say, I do like it better than the Borg charger's...but, I believe all it is is as overglorified HX35/HX40 HYBRID with a big price tag...but, I'd like to try a different cam and see how they all perform ,but, that's more work....lol ..but anyway, sorry for the long message, just curious what your thoughts are ,...if u Happen to read this....like your videos by the way....u and you're brother got a good thing goin the way it looks👍👍
What happens if you just delete the whole lot of 5psi 10 psi 15psi 20 psi bla bla psi? Might as well just take out the whole governor assembly and put a string to it
Deleting the afc housing? It would simply be rack position equals pedal position. The issue is smoke output goes through the roof since you can tank the afr almost instantly. Most Your sled pulling setups are this way. On the competitive engines.
Considering it was on 12 valves long before it was in the truck, I can’t watch beyond 1:18 😂 factually incorrect information out of the gate doesn’t make one overly trusting of anything further said.
Best video I ever watched . Thank you
Making it make sense is most the battle. Haha.
👍👍wish I would've found u guys 5 years ago when I bought a couple s300s for my trucks...or Maybe u weren't around yet...wish I could trade them in for your holsets...
I was just repairing turbos back then. The hx super hero turbos are just about to turn two years old. :)
Thank you for sharing this info and going into depth with your explanation. Great video!
Thank you for watching :)
@@savagefabrication795 looking forward to the next p7100 video
Schools in Suckas! Awesome video man!
Thank you :)
Awesome video ! Very well explained 👍🏻
I bought a used P7100 and one stud that holds the governor springs is bent, can a guy buy the governor assembly ? I've searched for major hours online but no luck, you would swear I was looking for nuclear codes. thanks great channel !
Probably not… it’s like building a numbers matching mopar.
Your best bet would be to contact places that rebuild the pumps and hope they will sell it too you vs them keeping it on hand for situations like your in.
thank you.
I have a question.. I have a new crate 4BT after the old got a crack in the block. I swapped everything onto the new long block, has a P pump, and the only thing ever done to it was the star wheel was turned all the way forward. Not by me.. other than that the the tamper proof screw hasn’t ever been removed ect.. running H1C turbo. Should I back that star wheel some to get boost quicker? That’s a lot of info to take in, but I think that’s what the issue is as far as torque when pulling a trailer.
Taking the tension off the spring will increase torque per rpm. I would move forward with loosening the spring up too when it starts to get a light haze under load :)
@@savagefabrication795 right now it smokes black before boost, and after boost it clears up. The star wheel is moved all the way forward.
@@daniellaverty1359 then you would want to tighten up the spring but I would do a small spring adjustment while also backing pre boost out. If it is a pre boost issue or low boost issue adjusting the star wheel is only going to do so much. Where pre boost can help out a lot.
@@savagefabrication795 I truly appreciate you answering my questions. Seems like you know your stuff on tuning, so take it as a compliment that I’m asking you and not someone else. I appreciate your time.
@@daniellaverty1359 🙇♂️ always try to do my best to be helpful
Where is the pressure taken off the turbo or the manifold?
94-98 12v's take it from the turbo. but you can take it from the manifold. it is pretty common to get rid of the big hard line and clean up the engine bay and just take the boost reference from the head.
your talking afc and say "K so you take this guy off" and your brother thinks yummy cheese dip, lol
it's cool the editing is like a window into how your brother's mind works.
probably don't even know what I'm talking about.
Lol we try to share the daily shop humor that goes on. Always a good fun environment
👍💪
Does having a looser star wheel result in higher egt’s?
Not necessarily. During acceleration sure but during steady state conditions not really.
can someone please explain why everyone is so excited about turbo charging ??? super charging should better because it doesn't restrict the exhaust. -am i missing something???
@@------country-boy------- absorbed work to drive the compressor 👍
What about the P 7100 would cause a no idle or stop below 900 rpms?
The engines just shutting off below 900 rpms?
@savagefabrication795 yes. Engine runs above 1300 rpms fine below that it will slowly stop. All new parts installed below injector pump.
@@garygeer7646 if I had to take a shot in the dark guess it would be either low fuel pressure below 900 rpms for the idle springs in the governor housing are out of calibration and not increasing rack position to maintain a idle.
@savagefabrication795 thanks for the reply. I took governor spring out. I the idle spring on one side was not mounted and the base washer was on the side of the spring. I put it back properly but still have idle issue. It was suggested that the timing is off. Gear slippage. I'm looking at that now.
@@garygeer7646 maybe but they typically still run they just run like garbage. Do you know the hight of the gov spring retaining nut on each side? Too lose or unbalanced can cause problems.
Thoughts on AFC Live....?
If you have a P-pump truck & understand the AFC function & want to be able to tune your engine "On-The-Fly" like the Electronically-Controlled engines but want to keep the reliability of an all-mechanical engine, AFC Live is your "Golden Ticket"! 🙏🏻😇🙏🏻
I agree with west texas. And for street driving I think the afc live is the best setup next to just dialing in the afc manually on the pump. It is fun to get to make adjustments inside, and note the results. What I found happened though and this is not a diss or a negative thing, but once you get it dialed in, you honestly won’t really ever touch it again except for to show off what it does or if you change parts and need a new tune up. Reducing pressure to the afc diaphragm is the same is taking your foot off the throttle some, it’s just more convenient I guess idk haha. Not a diss. Just how it works. For street driven trucks I like it. Their new version is extremely small compared to the old one and i have a mounting plate that does take a little extra work, but locates it in the cup holder location in the dash to get it out from the lower kick panel. I would rather people have afc live to make tuning easier so the truck is tuned for the street as well then maxed or gutted afc setups that smoke excessively (not anti smoke, just anti smoke in view on public roads) on the race track it’s game on. Now for racing use. The attitude adjuster is by far the most consistent and easy way to select the maximum amount of fuel you want to use. If your goal is to run 10’s and you run a 9, back down the attitude adjuster until it’s a 10 and it will do it every time. Go to a track that you want to run a 9? Turn it back to the 9 sec setting and it will do it. But again it is a convenience thing (I have/had afc live on my daily driver and a attitude adjuster on the dyno queen) I could do the same thing that the attitude adjuster does by moving the fuel plate back manually. Or moving it forward manually. Most performance pump shops will mark fuel plate location settings as cc’s max. So you can make decisions on how much fuel you need based on the competition or the grade your going against. Ultimately where the rack is in its travel is still decided upon by the throttle itself.
@@savagefabrication795 👍👍ten four man...I actually have had AFC live for a couple years.......I like it for being able to get rid of smoke for a daily driver....now my only problem is finding the right turbo combination... as mentioned previously, I've tried the S300 62/68/12 and 63/68/12 ... Both on a 12 valve and VP44 Truck... With different size injectors in each as well...and the AFC live and a edge comp box respectively...the Borg Warner turbos are pigs below 2000 rpms I've found unfortunately...it was false advertising from a vendor and me being nieve and me being unknowledgeable and uninformed I suppose...but anyway... recently bought a bone stock fuel 02 truck that the "kid" had a Fleece cheetah on....took it off and put it on my slightly modded '97 with the AFC live , different In jectors and delivery valves...I'll have to say, I do like it better than the Borg charger's...but, I believe all it is is as overglorified HX35/HX40 HYBRID with a big price tag...but, I'd like to try a different cam and see how they all perform ,but, that's more work....lol ..but anyway, sorry for the long message, just curious what your thoughts are ,...if u Happen to read this....like your videos by the way....u and you're brother got a good thing goin the way it looks👍👍
What happens if you just delete the whole lot of 5psi 10 psi 15psi 20 psi bla bla psi? Might as well just take out the whole governor assembly and put a string to it
Deleting the afc housing? It would simply be rack position equals pedal position. The issue is smoke output goes through the roof since you can tank the afr almost instantly. Most Your sled pulling setups are this way. On the competitive engines.
I'll yoke sise over electronics anyday.
Lo podes traducir a españo
My gosh that guy doesn't know how to take it apart and he's trying to tell us how it works what a joke
Who asked boomer
Considering it was on 12 valves long before it was in the truck, I can’t watch beyond 1:18 😂 factually incorrect information out of the gate doesn’t make one overly trusting of anything further said.
You're living up to your username. This video is highly informative.