I could listen to this man patiently explain how to perform maintenance on a Rocket 3 all day! Thank you for posting this, going to attempt my front brakes this week.
In addition to the steps you show in your video, I recommend bleeding a small amount of brake fluid from each caliper prior to removal. This will prevent overflow from the master cylinder when you press the pistons back into the calipers to allow sufficient spacing for the new thicker pads. That plus the fact that the fluid within the calipers is just plain NASTY and needs to go. I also recommend lubricating the pad retaining pin with a small amount of non-petroleum disc brake lubricant. That will help prevent the pads from hanging up on that pin. These are just some pro tips to avoid problems down the road.
@@safelyanonymous5717 .Changing the rear Pads is even easier and takes about 10 minutes. It's a good job as I go through a rear set about every 4000miles. I changed my front pads out at 22000miles and there was zero wear on them...
If you're performing a brake pad change on a Rocket III Touring, even though the forks are completely different from the Classic and Roadster, the procedure and the pads are exactly the same. Tip: It wasn't mentioned in the video but to save a trip or 2 back to the toolbox, the caliper mounting bolts are 14mm and the pad retaining pin is 5mm Allen key. Now a question for Triumph: The front brakes are in-house design and the rear brake is superior (IMO) Brembo. Why didn't you go Brembo all the way around?
I'm having trouble removing the retaining pin from my rotors. What size allen head did you use the remove? The 5 mm seems to be right for the one side but it doesn't fit the other side. I tried to turn it but it's on tight and I partially stripped the head so I'm kinda stuck
I have a rocket 3 2005 you are a very good man you have a very good way to explain everything thank you for the video clips I would like to receive more video clips about things that you do in your bike if by any chance you can get in touch with me I will let you be very interest God bless you if you respond to me I possibly can give you my personal email I leave in Colorado USA
hey i have a problem, my rear brake gets very hot. I replaced the brake fluid, cleaned the entire caliper, new EBC pads even without braking, the disc is warm and the wheel has high rolling resistance. the pads rub excessively against the brake disc. I don't know where to look for the problem anymore
You forgot to mention one important step. If you were really replacing the pads, you have to compress the caliper pistons so the new thicker pads will fit over the rotor. It appears that you just took your pads out and put them back in to demonstrate the procedure and, in that case, compressing the pistons wouldn't be necessary but, even so, it would make it easier to reinstall the caliper over the rotor. But you absolutely must compress the pistons when you actually do replace old pads with new thicker pads. You couldn't fit the caliper on the rotor if you didn't. Compressing the four pistons on this caliper can be funny. You push one piston in and it pushes another piston out. A good way to do it is to put the push all the pistons in while the old pads are still in the caliper by using a screwdriver or other tool to push them apart which pushes the pistons in. Triumph recommends that you replace the cotter pins. Of course, that's not necessary if you don't ruin them. I don't know about where you are, but in the U.S. cotter pins are readily available at any hardware store. In fact, kits with hundreds of various size cotter pins are available and cost next to nothing. I probably have thousands of cotter pins of all sizes in my parts drawers so I just replace them.
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I could listen to this man patiently explain how to perform maintenance on a Rocket 3 all day! Thank you for posting this, going to attempt my front brakes this week.
In addition to the steps you show in your video, I recommend bleeding a small amount of brake fluid from each caliper prior to removal. This will prevent overflow from the master cylinder when you press the pistons back into the calipers to allow sufficient spacing for the new thicker pads. That plus the fact that the fluid within the calipers is just plain NASTY and needs to go. I also recommend lubricating the pad retaining pin with a small amount of non-petroleum disc brake lubricant. That will help prevent the pads from hanging up on that pin. These are just some pro tips to avoid problems down the road.
Thank you, good video but I didn't notice a beer beside you? That's the first step of any repair job you know.
Very good explanation... thanks..
Another great video. You make it so simple and I really appreciate it. Happy Motoring!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH , I LOVE THE SIMPLE WAY YOU EXPLAINED .
The easiest brake pad change I ever did. You can do it in less time than this video lasts.
The little cotter split pins are real easy to find at most hardware stores. I found a box of twenty for a couple of bucks at Home Depot...
Bryan Montague BTW, we are from Australia.
thank-you bryan- yes i bought a 20pcs industrial pack for 6.99 (amazon)
@@safelyanonymous5717 .Changing the rear Pads is even easier and takes about 10 minutes. It's a good job as I go through a rear set about every 4000miles. I changed my front pads out at 22000miles and there was zero wear on them...
If you're performing a brake pad change on a Rocket III Touring, even though the forks are completely different from the Classic and Roadster, the procedure and the pads are exactly the same. Tip: It wasn't mentioned in the video but to save a trip or 2 back to the toolbox, the caliper mounting bolts are 14mm and the pad retaining pin is 5mm Allen key.
Now a question for Triumph: The front brakes are in-house design and the rear brake is superior (IMO) Brembo. Why didn't you go Brembo all the way around?
I'm having trouble removing the retaining pin from my rotors. What size allen head did you use the remove? The 5 mm seems to be right for the one side but it doesn't fit the other side. I tried to turn it but it's on tight and I partially stripped the head so I'm kinda stuck
excellent video..thanks for taking the time to do it..tip o' the hat to ya..
I have a rocket 3 2005 you are a very good man you have a very good way to explain everything thank you for the video clips I would like to receive more video clips about things that you do in your bike if by any chance you can get in touch with me I will let you be very interest God bless you if you respond to me I possibly can give you my personal email I leave in Colorado USA
you dont have to actually take the caliper off the disk to change. found it easier to remove while still fitted
how's that done.?
hey i have a problem, my rear brake gets very hot. I replaced the brake fluid, cleaned the entire caliper, new EBC pads even without braking, the disc is warm and the wheel has high rolling resistance. the pads rub excessively against the brake disc. I don't know where to look for the problem anymore
How to take off a r3 o6 tank please brother ,fuel tank
That is not a Rocket 3. Good lord and you are instructing folks?
You forgot to mention one important step. If you were really replacing the pads, you have to compress the caliper pistons so the new thicker pads will fit over the rotor. It appears that you just took your pads out and put them back in to demonstrate the procedure and, in that case, compressing the pistons wouldn't be necessary but, even so, it would make it easier to reinstall the caliper over the rotor. But you absolutely must compress the pistons when you actually do replace old pads with new thicker pads. You couldn't fit the caliper on the rotor if you didn't.
Compressing the four pistons on this caliper can be funny. You push one piston in and it pushes another piston out. A good way to do it is to put the push all the pistons in while the old pads are still in the caliper by using a screwdriver or other tool to push them apart which pushes the pistons in.
Triumph recommends that you replace the cotter pins. Of course, that's not necessary if you don't ruin them. I don't know about where you are, but in the U.S. cotter pins are readily available at any hardware store. In fact, kits with hundreds of various size cotter pins are available and cost next to nothing. I probably have thousands of cotter pins of all sizes in my parts drawers so I just replace them.
Vent vent.. reservoir will have more fluid in it...
That's the good example how you MUST NOT do this operation. Just download service manual and read it before this kind of videos.....