Kenny that chain trick is genius. It's better than just beating it with a hammer. You always teach this old dog new tricks. That is why I watch you, I was like ball joints, wipers, big deal, and then you taught me something. I try to learn something new every day, even if it is something simple. I know an old guy that said, I'm through learning. I told him it was quite obvious. Thanks for the video.
I once had a Kia with a Mazda engine /trans. I had to change the boots as they tore and needed replacing. I tried to get that part of the axle shaft out from the trans to take it to the workbench. Man I struggled with that for a whole day in my driveway and it would not budge. I finally wound up disassembling the shaft under the car leaving the cup part still mounted to the trans, cleaning replacing it in situ. What a pig. I never knew about turning the shaft and trying again. Maybe some other time. I don't what I would have done if the seal on the trans needed changing. I talked to some other mechanics who ran into similar problems on Mazdas and wound up taking the side of the trans (seal cover) off to disassemble the side gear. I even heard of a fella breaking the trans housing yanking on the stub stuck in it with a hearty tug chain attached to a tractor.
My brother Kenny, you are the man. I like the 'MDI' or 'mechanic delete item'. I can't stop laughing. I really appreciate the tip on the wiper arm removal technique too. I fought with a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country as it didn't want to give them up. When I finally found the right tool to help take them off, I guarantee you that I put plenty of 'anti-seize' compound on those jokers.
Yes especially the wiper arms, good to apply a thin film of light grease to the shaft, the spring pivots as well as the hinge. that keeps them going a lot longer, and also makes the arm wipe better. A quick tip if it is dull is to take tyre shine, clear, and wipe the entire arm with it, makes it look a lot better. Also works on that shroud, doing the whole shroud out of the car, top and bottom, makes it black again and removes the sun fade from it.
If you are doing the axle removal in your drive way you may not have enough room to pry the axles out so I use a cold chisel & soft blow hammer at an angle towards the wheel hub & generally a light tap will remove them putting them back in line up the axle & usually a good push on it will re seat it back in the transmission manual/automatic as with the ball joint use the cold chisel in the gap Kenny pointed out & again a small tap with a hammer will usually be enough to wedge it open enough to allow you to pull it down & out.Cheers Kenny.
I had a 2008 Ford Escape. It has a recall for the AT cooler which was part of the A/C condenser. Work was done at 56,000 miles. At literally 60,102 miles. Drivetrain warranty was 5 years/60k miles. Ford absolutely refused to replace the transmission. For a year I made dozens of calls to dozens of different people at Ford. The dealership was behind me and my local congressman wrote Ford a letter. I finally gave up, parked the Escape by a major highway my property butts against and covered the car with signs bam basting Ford. The dealership finally helped me out when the got another Escape that was rear ended. 23 k miles. They replaced mine with the one out of the other Escape. Good for them. Soon as I got it back I sold it and have never bought a Ford again !
I use a 2 or 3 foot long piece of 1/4" chain with a hook on the end for popping ball joints. Works more often than not and with the hook it's super fast to install and remove. It doesn't have to be such a heavy chain for this application, it's just what I had laying around.
Yep I did ball joint on a 74 Chevy Vega and made a mistake ovetighened it, and it broke and the lower control arm. Separated from the vehicle and dug into the pavement. I was young. But you give valuable tips. So anyone working on there suspension on vehicle's don't ovetighen. Cause you can have problems. 😊
And as far as the chain loop idea, I have a fairly large C clamp I use to compress brake calipers that also works the same way as the chain, just hang the clamp on the lower arm and put your pry at thru the bottom and yank.
You better put a jack stand under the chain before pulling downwards. The vehicle may be pulled off of the rack. Rainman Ray always reminds us about this.
Tricks of the trade! Kudo's Mr Good wrench! How's the warranty work with trans "if" something happens in the warranty period? Does customer eat r &r labor and does rebuilder determine trans who fault? How's that work Master Kenny!
How much should this job cost? Would you go ahead and replace that other side axle while you have it all apart, since one side has already been replaced? Are there any other parts that should be considered to replace while this is all apart?
Kenny, you do things the way I was taught. Use your brains, not your back. Everything has a torque! There are so many lazy clowns 🤡 on RUclips with their power tools that overtighten.
These types of videos are invaluable, thank you Kenny. You taught me the Chain Trick today.
Kenny that chain trick is genius. It's better than just beating it with a hammer. You always teach this old dog new tricks. That is why I watch you, I was like ball joints, wipers, big deal, and then you taught me something. I try to learn something new every day, even if it is something simple. I know an old guy that said, I'm through learning. I told him it was quite obvious. Thanks for the video.
I appreciate your reply. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
a c-clamp works good as well
They actually make a ball joint tool that is like a c-clamp.@@Captainbrunch-f2k
@@jthonn yes for pressing them out/in. I was talking about putting the c clamp around the control arm like he did with the chain.
cool idea, thanks@@Captainbrunch-f2k
I once had a Kia with a Mazda engine /trans. I had to change the boots as they tore and needed replacing. I tried to get that part of the axle shaft out from the trans to take it to the workbench. Man I struggled with that for a whole day in my driveway and it would not budge. I finally wound up disassembling the shaft under the car leaving the cup part still mounted to the trans, cleaning replacing it in situ. What a pig. I never knew about turning the shaft and trying again. Maybe some other time. I don't what I would have done if the seal on the trans needed changing. I talked to some other mechanics who ran into similar problems on Mazdas and wound up taking the side of the trans (seal cover) off to disassemble the side gear. I even heard of a fella breaking the trans housing yanking on the stub stuck in it with a hearty tug chain attached to a tractor.
Time to join the chain gang !! 💪
Great ball joint tip.I have struggled with those on the wife's Subaru which has the exact same setup.
I like the ball joint tip, thanks
Glad to help! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Great Video as always Kenny! Thanks for sharing...
My brother Kenny, you are the man. I like the 'MDI' or 'mechanic delete item'. I can't stop laughing. I really appreciate the tip on the wiper arm removal technique too. I fought with a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country as it didn't want to give them up. When I finally found the right tool to help take them off, I guarantee you that I put plenty of 'anti-seize' compound on those jokers.
Yes especially the wiper arms, good to apply a thin film of light grease to the shaft, the spring pivots as well as the hinge. that keeps them going a lot longer, and also makes the arm wipe better. A quick tip if it is dull is to take tyre shine, clear, and wipe the entire arm with it, makes it look a lot better. Also works on that shroud, doing the whole shroud out of the car, top and bottom, makes it black again and removes the sun fade from it.
Thanks for your tip! Keep wrenching 🔧
I hope you are well, brother. I'm glad I made you laugh. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Did mine this last week after washing, and it made a big difference doing it to all the plastic, including headlights.
Thanks for those tips!!
Cmon!
For the wipers, simply LIFT THEM to relieve the spring pressure on them!!!
If you are doing the axle removal in your drive way you may not have enough room to pry the axles out so I use a cold chisel & soft blow hammer at an angle towards the wheel hub & generally a light tap will remove them putting them back in line up the axle & usually a good push on it will re seat it back in the transmission manual/automatic as with the ball joint use the cold chisel in the gap Kenny pointed out & again a small tap with a hammer will usually be enough to wedge it open enough to allow you to pull it down & out.Cheers Kenny.
Great tech tip! Thanks for sharing that one. Keep wrenching 🔧
I had a 2008 Ford Escape. It has a recall for the AT cooler which was part of the A/C condenser. Work was done at 56,000 miles. At literally 60,102 miles. Drivetrain warranty was 5 years/60k miles. Ford absolutely refused to replace the transmission. For a year I made dozens of calls to dozens of different people at Ford. The dealership was behind me and my local congressman wrote Ford a letter. I finally gave up, parked the Escape by a major highway my property butts against and covered the car with signs bam basting Ford. The dealership finally helped me out when the got another Escape that was rear ended. 23 k miles. They replaced mine with the one out of the other Escape. Good for them. Soon as I got it back I sold it and have never bought a Ford again !
THANKS KENNY!!!!!!!!!!!!
I use a 2 or 3 foot long piece of 1/4" chain with a hook on the end for popping ball joints. Works more often than not and with the hook it's super fast to install and remove. It doesn't have to be such a heavy chain for this application, it's just what I had laying around.
Yep I did ball joint on a 74 Chevy Vega and made a mistake ovetighened it, and it broke and the lower control arm. Separated from the vehicle and dug into the pavement. I was young. But you give valuable tips. So anyone working on there suspension on vehicle's don't ovetighen. Cause you can have problems. 😊
Vega! I just saw one & got all nostalgic!!! Thanks for sharing your story. Keep wrenching 🔧
The little metal bit over the ball joint is to protect the rubber dust cover of the ball joint
Thank you !!!
Hey dude, I really appreciate the thoughtful videos you take the time to post. Some great content
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Awesome tips, thanks.
Good one !
Thanks for the tips! I have to pull a lower ball joint and a front axle on a Ford era Volvo, so it is probably extra helpful. Thank you!
UPDATE - The chain trick, or my variation thereof using hose clamps, worked flawlessly! Thanks again, Kenny!
great info Kenny
OTC 6007 tool for lowering control arms with prybar is great also
And as far as the chain loop idea, I have a fairly large C clamp I use to compress brake calipers that also works the same way as the chain, just hang the clamp on the lower arm and put your pry at thru the bottom and yank.
Nice Kenny 👍💪
Good tips
You better put a jack stand under the chain before pulling downwards. The vehicle may be pulled off of the rack. Rainman Ray always reminds us about this.
I preach torque specs they're there for a reason BTW is there a position open at the shop
In the Army we called it weight reduction for better fuel economy
Never seen one
Tricks of the trade! Kudo's Mr Good wrench! How's the warranty work with trans "if" something happens in the warranty period? Does customer eat r &r labor and does rebuilder determine trans who fault? How's that work Master Kenny!
Nothing to do with the video but what do you think is the best oil filter???
Never done this. I’m old school and most cars only rear wheel drive. Have changed shocks though. What a nightmare. Keep wrenching
How much should this job cost?
Would you go ahead and replace that other side axle while you have it all apart, since one side has already been replaced?
Are there any other parts that should be considered to replace while this is all apart?
A "special tool" that is inexpensive to make and it works.
Question, how did you get to the torque converter bolts/nuts?
I see no access hole in the bell housing.
Great, very clever and useful tips! Clean those nasty ceiling fans. The shop appears to be clean except for the fans.
They added that tin piece to the ball joint Kenny, just so the average care buyer could not afford their ridiculous asking price.
😂 & mechanics everywhere shake their head. Thanks for watching 🔧
MDI = I read a TSB on that once. LOL
😂😂😂
I think most viewers would buy a used car from Kenny. Comes with a lifetime warranty? Right Kenny?
😂 that why I don't do flips. The vehicle always has to be perfect before it leaves me. Thanks for watching 🔧
Kenny, you do things the way I was taught. Use your brains, not your back. Everything has a torque! There are so many lazy clowns 🤡 on RUclips with their power tools that overtighten.
I appreciate your reply. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧