Just recently bought myself a new fluke volt stick and new unilite pen light after they mysteriously went missing, then found a fluke volt stick and unilite pen light in my 3 year olds toy Bosch toolbox! Already stealing my tools!
I can kind of see why they’ve cut them kitchen unit sockets, the back boxes make them think that’s where they’re going, and they think they’ve left you plenty of length. Feed at the switches is the way forward imo, I’ve been doing it the last 6 years. Neutral at all points for any smart switches etc and makes for easier connection at a fancy light or downlights 👌🏼
On the other hand, each craft should keep to their stuff. Plasterer doesn't touch cabling same as the electrician doesn't touch the pipes, and so on. The plasterer wouldn't go and fuck around with the water pipes to make life easier for them, would they.
My tools don’t disappear but they do rearrange themselves in the bag and slide around in motor oil in the process. Nothing to do with my brother of course.
Nice to see cleaning up the boxes. As DiYer fixing what the recommended registered professionals did, I spend a fair amount of time cleaning boxes and the backs of sockets before making tight the connections that slide in and out and the earth sleeving that's slipped into the connections. Thanks to some YT vids, I now double back the wires to fill the connection and have the screw squeeze the wires against sides of the connection housing - tight fit, no slippage, and not screwing so hard it squashes the wires. Clean boxes, firm connections. I fitted the boxes, conduit with drawstrings, sparks just had to thread cable and install switches and sockets but they did that fast and sloppy like showing off to each other. This team seems to take pride in work
Great work nick good to see a fellow electrician taking pride of his work I always use Hager sockets and switches lovely to connect up I like to separate the earths in the socket via the 2 earth terminals and double them over to give a better contact Another good tip I like to do when first fixing is squirt expanding foam through and around the metal boxes , it holds them tight stops air and saves big gaps for plaster to crack out
When I was a sparks, many many years ago plasterers were a curse. I learned the hard though. Although I'd been a part time sparky for years, I'd never worked on new build. So I did the first fix on a new build in wales, went back home to the Midlands for a week thinking I'd have a clean and easy half days work on the ground floor when I got back. I was in for a shock. I had coiled up all my cables inside the socket and switch boxes to avoid the plasterers damaging them with their trowels. But when I got back I couldn't find some of the boxes as they'd plastered right over them. Some had a little hole in the plaster where you could just see a bit of cable showing. It took me half a day to clean them out and they were still a mess. All the threads on the lugs were full of plaster and some of the threads were ruined. The plasterers had previously complimented me on my neatness and thanked me for coiling up the cables and making their job easier. They said they would help me in return by cleaning out the boxes as they went along. They kept the first six clean and then got bored. I never took any chances after that. I continued to coil up my cables wedging them behind the lugs but started to cover them with cardboard cut out from the boxes that the fittings came in. I'd tuck the cardboard behind the lugs in the box. I'd then put a strip of tape over the lugs I was going to use so everything was covered. Anything I couldn't cover I'd smear petroleum jelly over. Plaster wouldn't stick to that. I had many a comment on the building sites about the jar of vaseline on top of my tool box. But the old petroleum jelly was also useful for easily feeding cables through holes that already had cables in them, without damaging the outer sheath of the older cables and also good for feeding cables down through existing channels without damaging them. One thing I don't agree with or see the point of is running neutral conductors into light switch boxes. I'd seen this before when wiring had been done by amateur DIY enthusiasts. Why run two cables down a wall when you can just run one. You still have to run the L and N to the next ceiling light. I don't get it. I also don't get the reintroduction of radial circuits over ring circuits. I spent many years working in electronics as my main job while working part time as a sparks. So I understand the maths side of it and can only say that the ring circuit is definitely the way to go.
Radials are coming back into favour as we're no longer in the Post-war mindset of copper shortage (The genesis of the ring final circuit due to the reduced CSA of conductors.) They are also easier to troubleshoot, require 1 less dead test, and allow higher selectivity in large installations if the "rule of the thumb" for floor space served by radials with 20A Protective devices. Neutrals are being run in because a lot of smart home devices such as smart light switches require them to function, these devices are steadily increasing in popularity as technology advances and so running a neutral to your lighting points is a relatively easy way to futureproof an installation.
@@conarobrien9434 I take your points mate but I'm an old dinosaur stuck in the past. I've just run a couple of radials in my garage and I'm not sure what to do when I fit my new kitchen as I think both types of circuits have their merits. I'll definitely run a separate circuit for the freezer and not on the RCD side as I came home from holiday once to find the power had tripped and lost a freezer full of stuff.
@@truthseeker7794 I'm with you totally mate, the technology may move in and the methods will develop, but you've got something that cant be learned from a book, experience and trade savvy. You should take a look at John Ward's video about cooker circuits and diversity, I've always run 6mm for cooker circuit and his video makes some interesting points.
@@conarobrien9434 Yes I sometimes watch JW, apart from his electrics he's so dry and entertaining even though he doesn't mean to be. Yes I've always tried to use 6mm over 10 partly because it's just too thick and stiff for most fittings. I don't think standard fittings are made to take 10mm. I've had some fittings crack under the pressure of stiff 10mm. It's funny how jobbing builders will use 6 or 10mm for ovens as because they are a big appliance but as you know yourself most ovens only pull a few hundred watts. On the other hand they think a small hob needs a smaller cable but of course, they can pull a few thousand watts. I've worked alongside a few college trained sparks and they're so text book and often don't seem to have an any kind of aptitude for the job. You have to have your own mind in this game. Nice to talk.
picked up a precistrip this week, got a project with 300 pendant fittings so gonna hammer it properly and see if it breaks, 300 fittings on 2 core so 600 outer insulation , 1200 cores strippied then the controll lines for the 12 circuits input connectors etc. I may need some extra lamps but I reckon under 2000 stripping operations. it'll be interesting to see how it holds up.
Protip: energise all circuits before the plasterer comes in so that you will find the cable cutting culprit laying there caught red handed the next day
Nick round 13-30 ish, am I missing something here if so sorry in advance but dont you have to earth the back box or has that gone now?,Obviously theres now no need to or you would of done it,is that the case as I appreciate the screws are earthed and you cant touch the box
You should always check that the screws are still gripping the cables properly after you first push the fascia into position. They can easily work themselves loose when the cables first get stuffed and bent into shape inside the back box.
My electrical installation teacher in college always told me that I need to earth the back box and both terminals in the socket outlet incase the bar link breaks between the 2 cpc terminals but I realised that you didn’t do is this not a requirement?
If you are terminating 2 or more wires into the same terminal they should be neatly twisted together, unless the terminal is designed specifically for wires not to be twisted. Stranded wire has the habit of strands being crushed, snapped or pushed to the side if the terminal is just a cheapo screw. Manufacturers will specify how their products should be terminated. Even bending back or lightly twisting single wires is not recommended by some.
I was running low on labelling tape and my youngest was busy making herself labels. I asked her to stop because tape was expensive. I agreed to one more label, so she printed "I LOVE YOU MUM YOU'RE SUPERCALAFRAGILISTICEXPEALIDOCIOIS". 🙄
I'm a former approved electrician and changed career 15 years ago, these videos make me think about getting back into it!🤔You seem very knowledgeable and know a lot of the tricks, how long have you been Sparking for?
The plaster could have left you a right nightmare with cutting them cables short. I always leave them long so you can pull them out from underneath the plinthCheers lads good video
i'm from Ontario Canada and just finished wiring my house, would you be interested in seeing the type of installations we have here and the setup? I'd say it's quite different here lol
Hi Nick you can but your cables neatly in the back box , and the plasterer will just plaster over them so you can’t find the outlet . Plasterers are not all alike though , some will go the extra mile and clean the boxes out . Some you win some you lose 😂 Great video Regards Mike 👍
Nic,.. I can't believe that you tightened up the Terminals on that double socket with a screwdriver that looked like a 7 mm blade....?... that driver is for ceiling roses...?
@@TheChipmunk2008 there’s no need for it . I have a plasterer friend who is spot on . Can plaster round boxes with lengths of cable and ... get this... every box CLEAN! Then there’s another one who cuts the cables and fills the boxes ... his name rhymes with hunt
@@bradh2066 Exactly. That is why i use the pejorative term mudslinger for the guys who give the trade a bad name. Turns out the trick is to let them either skim over the box (tuck the cables flush) or let the boarder tuck your cables up while you drill a pilot that you inform them under pain of death, must be left open. Most trades want an easy life... it's when you never meet, that the animosity happens. because you never get to talk, and then never understand each other's needs. Predrilling downlight holes leads to plasterers getting covered in plaster, apparently. Our response was 'errr want us to put the lights in first?'
12:16 giving the twin & earth a light cut in the inside of the box to strip the cable looks dodgy for me as an apprentice, I would be afraid i cut the cable or expose copper
It takes a lot of practice with the same tool to get good at it, if you swap to new cutters there's a good chance you'll mark the inner cores. I used to do it with a knife (basically the same thing) now I just use the knipex tool it's easier.
Good to be cautious. It does take skill, and even now i sometimes mess up using cutters as strippers. With the scenario Nick showed here tho, decent quality grommets won't allow damage to the cable :)
@@effervescence5664 LOL, I had a new pair of cutters the other day. Went to strip some cat6 (just for belling out, for actual termination i do it right). Cut the core short 7 times in a row till i got used to it. Damn knipex cutters!
@@TheChipmunk2008 Yeah I swapped from old CK cable sheers to the Knipex 5 in 1 a while back and did the same thing. Got to admit though I probably have more cable striping tools than anything else currently. It just speeds up 2nd fix so much.
My lead on one site arrived early to take a delivery and found an electrician had pulled our bundle of Cat5 out of the ceiling and was _swinging on it._ Stretched everything all to hell, broke half the wires, and walked away laughing. I don't think he realized at the time that part of that cabling was stuff that _he_ depended on for completion. The extra day it cost us ran out his permits (always factor for slippage).
Why do you put insulation on the ground after you strip the sheathing off? Is that code in the UK? If this is a dumb question, then I was just kidding. In the US we leave the grounds bare copper unless we're using mc cable that comes with an insulated ground.
After over an hour of looking i found my van keys inside the sub woofer for the surround sound I only found them because I moved it in temper and heard a rattle opened it up and there was all sorts in it 🤣
Had a well known security company cut my cctv cable to fish their fire alarm cable down. took me ages to trace the fault as the run was huge and was right at the end of the run. Happens all the time in the security industry.
Normally by sticking a warning label on the switches warning ⚠️ of live cables generally stops plasterer cutting the cables if you can’t tuck em in the box 📦 and normally I do. And write on the wall clean the boxes out. Then you can’t be blamed if the plaster gets damaged when cleaning the boxes. Only thing I do also is stripping the cables back to test after 1st fix. And get in first to 2nd fix before the kitchen fitter to drill holes in your cables. 😂
When using the laser line do you measure the ceiling and mark it in two different spots then try line up the laser? It takes me bloody ages to line up any tips would be appreciated
Get a laser with a spotter built in. Mark your two mark as you said then line the spotter directly under the first mark and swivel laser onto the second. Only takes fraction of the time! Bosch Professional cross line laser GCL 2-15 (red laser, interior, with plumb points, working range: 15 m, 3 x AA batteries, RM 1 rotating mount, laser target plate, protective bag) www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FLJ6DO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_tEQXFbHQ7599K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use a telecomms cable tracer for such belling out. it has a continuity light on it too... so when you think you found it, just short the pair, and the light comes on
im in thailand and was shocked by the low standards here (well not literally) anyway Ive done my own earthing system based on bonding all the metal rebar (foundatioon are all below ground and cement large areas) together with welds and thick jumpers the whole house is bonded to the metal roof rafters (no wood is used) This also leads to the "air terminals" for lightning conducting this is called an UFER GROUNDING system. look it up. The tossers here come straight out of college and actually twist bunches of wires together then tape over them with flimsy scotch tape which doesnt last very long and the dont understand the meaning of earthing and safety earthing. If you are coming to live here bring basic test gear including an earth loop impedance meter and a decent Fluke Ive also brought over boxes of outlets and use all british plugs stopping anyone from connecting their thai/chinese junk - manic -
hi could any one tell me where you can get the Waska boxes with those rubber grommet things that you can cut to the size of the cable? I want to install cctv this weekend and the cables are already made up by manufacture. thanks. love the channel I sit waiting for the next episode to drop. I want to retrain as an electrician but it is a bit of a mine field to find a course that fits and seems legit.
Hey nick, at the super nice socket with wagos, what’s the story with the neutral and phase being in the same connector? Is that the cable for the undone under cupboard lights?
If you leave all your cables really long then it's gonna be pretty hard for them to identify which ones you actually needed leaving long. Cut most of them off to 200-300mm and then coil up and tape the ones that needed a metre on them. If you leave a metre on everything just hanging out of the walls it looks like you've walked off and left the job half finished. The bloke probably thought he was doing you a favour finishing it off for you
I once did a very large Newbuild and I never use to tuck my cables in the back box well the plasterers cut every cable to the bottom of the box in the house IE 2 inch lol from then on I always put cables in the boxes
@@electricery lol no fucker bully’s me since I left school 😂but when I came back to the job and the gang of plasterers had gone I spotted the problem and I told client it will cost more simple as that but I also now make sure my cables stay the length in need and in the 38 years I have been doing it it’s only happened once.
@@kevinpickett7249 Its part of the plasterers inbreeding that they think everybody needs to panda to them and forget they are actually working for the end client, even if they are subbed to the builder its still the end client that expects a professional job. Good you charged for the additional cost, probably lost the plasterer future work or maybe they got a chargeback.
You need to write on your cables in Albanian/Russian/Lithuanian. So the Eastern European goat herder turned plasterer/plumber/carpenter knows not to cut them!!
Fixed lug bonds the backbox and faceplate using the screw. Only time they’d be separated is if you removed the faceplate from the backbox, which shouldn’t be done live anyway.
I had some cables cut off 2 lots singles through trunking about 40 m run bends etc rolled up and tucked out of way,but that's the "cornish telephone company" for you .
Seeing the loops going to the switches gives me much hope for the future. There is some nice automated home tech out their that most people can't use fully.
Good conduit should always be 25mm galvanised and fixed on the surface to saddles then you only have to install after the plasterer has done his bit. Never install a ring main always run individual radials the industrial way. Hate House bashing.
If its a plasterer I have worked with before and we have an agreement that I tuck the cables in and he cleans out the wet plaster from boxes I do it. If I don't know the plasterer the cables get left out cos am I fuck playing cable archeology chipping away at solid plaster trying to dig my cables out.
I think a lot of electricians don't know that toners exist. Thank god that they do though, a toner + wand made my life at least a hundred times easier when I used to service network cabling in schools. Apparently labels were never installed on the wall jacks :'^)
@@Leem3155 Wait you're relying on screws into plasterboard to 'earth' stuff? So by that reckoning we can just screw metal lights up to board and everything's fine? Sounds dodgy to me.
@@electricalstuff259 No the screws fastening the socket face to the metal back box, they are earthed via the sockets earth connection. Im not on about the screws fixing the box to the wall.
@@electricalstuff259 BS7671 does stipulate that the metal boxes require earthing. However, so long as the socket is manufactured to BS1363 and the back box has at least one "FIXED" lug it is ok
Cutting cables is inexcusable but why put boxes in the wall if the cables are going in cupboards, it obviously confused the brain dead plasterer. My cupboard feeds are left at plinth height, dosnt trouble the spreads then.
Just recently bought myself a new fluke volt stick and new unilite pen light after they mysteriously went missing, then found a fluke volt stick and unilite pen light in my 3 year olds toy Bosch toolbox! Already stealing my tools!
my kids got a fluke one in their christmas stocking because they kept nicking mine. Start them young
A parents tool box/bag is the best place to get the free tools needed by any kid needing a tool for any purpose.
Good boy
I can kind of see why they’ve cut them kitchen unit sockets, the back boxes make them think that’s where they’re going, and they think they’ve left you plenty of length.
Feed at the switches is the way forward imo, I’ve been doing it the last 6 years.
Neutral at all points for any smart switches etc and makes for easier connection at a fancy light or downlights 👌🏼
On the other hand, each craft should keep to their stuff. Plasterer doesn't touch cabling same as the electrician doesn't touch the pipes, and so on. The plasterer wouldn't go and fuck around with the water pipes to make life easier for them, would they.
@@rolfs2165 agree. What the hell did he start messing around with cables for?
My tools don’t disappear but they do rearrange themselves in the bag and slide around in motor oil in the process. Nothing to do with my brother of course.
Send the plasterer a bill for the rework you had to do! I’m sure if you scratched a completed wall, they’d charge you to re- finish the wall.
Plasterers don't care if they leave a scratch on their own wall
Our plasterers would kill us leaving cables out of boxes and not curled up in the box flush ready for them to skim 😂
And then they plaster over the whole lot.
Hard to leave a meter curled up in a box
Plasterers are not the sharpest tools though...........
Nice to see cleaning up the boxes. As DiYer fixing what the recommended registered professionals did, I spend a fair amount of time cleaning boxes and the backs of sockets before making tight the connections that slide in and out and the earth sleeving that's slipped into the connections.
Thanks to some YT vids, I now double back the wires to fill the connection and have the screw squeeze the wires against sides of the connection housing - tight fit, no slippage, and not screwing so hard it squashes the wires.
Clean boxes, firm connections. I fitted the boxes, conduit with drawstrings, sparks just had to thread cable and install switches and sockets but they did that fast and sloppy like showing off to each other. This team seems to take pride in work
Great work nick good to see a fellow electrician taking pride of his work
I always use Hager sockets and switches lovely to connect up
I like to separate the earths in the socket via the 2 earth terminals and double them over to give a better contact
Another good tip I like to do when first fixing is squirt expanding foam through and around the metal boxes , it holds them tight stops air and saves big gaps for plaster to crack out
When I was a sparks, many many years ago plasterers were a curse. I learned the hard though. Although I'd been a part time sparky for years, I'd never worked on new build. So I did the first fix on a new build in wales, went back home to the Midlands for a week thinking I'd have a clean and easy half days work on the ground floor when I got back. I was in for a shock. I had coiled up all my cables inside the socket and switch boxes to avoid the plasterers damaging them with their trowels. But when I got back I couldn't find some of the boxes as they'd plastered right over them. Some had a little hole in the plaster where you could just see a bit of cable showing. It took me half a day to clean them out and they were still a mess. All the threads on the lugs were full of plaster and some of the threads were ruined. The plasterers had previously complimented me on my neatness and thanked me for coiling up the cables and making their job easier. They said they would help me in return by cleaning out the boxes as they went along. They kept the first six clean and then got bored. I never took any chances after that. I continued to coil up my cables wedging them behind the lugs but started to cover them with cardboard cut out from the boxes that the fittings came in. I'd tuck the cardboard behind the lugs in the box. I'd then put a strip of tape over the lugs I was going to use so everything was covered. Anything I couldn't cover I'd smear petroleum jelly over. Plaster wouldn't stick to that. I had many a comment on the building sites about the jar of vaseline on top of my tool box. But the old petroleum jelly was also useful for easily feeding cables through holes that already had cables in them, without damaging the outer sheath of the older cables and also good for feeding cables down through existing channels without damaging them. One thing I don't agree with or see the point of is running neutral conductors into light switch boxes. I'd seen this before when wiring had been done by amateur DIY enthusiasts. Why run two cables down a wall when you can just run one. You still have to run the L and N to the next ceiling light. I don't get it. I also don't get the reintroduction of radial circuits over ring circuits. I spent many years working in electronics as my main job while working part time as a sparks. So I understand the maths side of it and can only say that the ring circuit is definitely the way to go.
Radials are coming back into favour as we're no longer in the Post-war mindset of copper shortage (The genesis of the ring final circuit due to the reduced CSA of conductors.) They are also easier to troubleshoot, require 1 less dead test, and allow higher selectivity in large installations if the "rule of the thumb" for floor space served by radials with 20A Protective devices.
Neutrals are being run in because a lot of smart home devices such as smart light switches require them to function, these devices are steadily increasing in popularity as technology advances and so running a neutral to your lighting points is a relatively easy way to futureproof an installation.
@@conarobrien9434 I take your points mate but I'm an old dinosaur stuck in the past. I've just run a couple of radials in my garage and I'm not sure what to do when I fit my new kitchen as I think both types of circuits have their merits. I'll definitely run a separate circuit for the freezer and not on the RCD side as I came home from holiday once to find the power had tripped and lost a freezer full of stuff.
@@truthseeker7794 I'm with you totally mate, the technology may move in and the methods will develop, but you've got something that cant be learned from a book, experience and trade savvy.
You should take a look at John Ward's video about cooker circuits and diversity, I've always run 6mm for cooker circuit and his video makes some interesting points.
@@conarobrien9434 Yes I sometimes watch JW, apart from his electrics he's so dry and entertaining even though he doesn't mean to be. Yes I've always tried to use 6mm over 10 partly because it's just too thick and stiff for most fittings. I don't think standard fittings are made to take 10mm. I've had some fittings crack under the pressure of stiff 10mm. It's funny how jobbing builders will use 6 or 10mm for ovens as because they are a big appliance but as you know yourself most ovens only pull a few hundred watts. On the other hand they think a small hob needs a smaller cable but of course, they can pull a few thousand watts. I've worked alongside a few college trained sparks and they're so text book and often don't seem to have an any kind of aptitude for the job. You have to have your own mind in this game. Nice to talk.
Re - neutral to switch you do not need to run 2 cables to the switch - just a 3 core surely?
picked up a precistrip this week, got a project with 300 pendant fittings so gonna hammer it properly and see if it breaks, 300 fittings on 2 core so 600 outer insulation , 1200 cores strippied then the controll lines for the 12 circuits input connectors etc. I may need some extra lamps but I reckon under 2000 stripping operations. it'll be interesting to see how it holds up.
Protip: energise all circuits before the plasterer comes in so that you will find the cable cutting culprit laying there caught red handed the next day
More like an amateur tip
@@supersparks9466 yes, all plasterers i know own insulated snips (no, not being sarcastic).
talking to other trades is simpler
Well I thought it was funny
"Jesus wired my house." Hal-lay-LOO-yuh!
I bought a 14000 BTU portable AC unit. Do you think my 4500 inverter generator will be able to start the compressor and handle the load please?
Nick round 13-30 ish, am I missing something here if so sorry in advance but dont you have to earth the back box or has that gone now?,Obviously theres now no need to or you would of done it,is that the case as I appreciate the screws are earthed and you cant touch the box
You should always check that the screws are still gripping the cables properly after you first push the fascia into position. They can easily work themselves loose when the cables first get stuffed and bent into shape inside the back box.
My electrical installation teacher in college always told me that I need to earth the back box and both terminals in the socket outlet incase the bar link breaks between the 2 cpc terminals but I realised that you didn’t do is this not a requirement?
If you are terminating 2 or more wires into the same terminal they should be neatly twisted together, unless the terminal is designed specifically for wires not to be twisted. Stranded wire has the habit of strands being crushed, snapped or pushed to the side if the terminal is just a cheapo screw. Manufacturers will specify how their products should be terminated. Even bending back or lightly twisting single wires is not recommended by some.
Pop down to pinewood studios ,they are filming the next batman film 🤣
I was running low on labelling tape and my youngest was busy making herself labels. I asked her to stop because tape was expensive.
I agreed to one more label, so she printed "I LOVE YOU MUM YOU'RE SUPERCALAFRAGILISTICEXPEALIDOCIOIS".
🙄
I'm a former approved electrician and changed career 15 years ago, these videos make me think about getting back into it!🤔You seem very knowledgeable and know a lot of the tricks, how long have you been Sparking for?
Why always write on the ends that get cut/striped... write near the box as possible
Why does leaving 1m of cable hanging out the socket make it easier to terminate in the cupboards?
The plaster could have left you a right nightmare with cutting them cables short. I always leave them long so you can pull them out from underneath the plinthCheers lads good video
i'm from Ontario Canada and just finished wiring my house, would you be interested in seeing the type of installations we have here and the setup? I'd say it's quite different here lol
Also, my 4 year old daughter tells people she’s an “electricianer” too 🙄😂
My daughter was an “Elec- chicken 🐓 “
@@JJ-kr6ky love it 😂👌🏼
whats with the continuity tester beeping forever. thats annoying.
Hi Nick you can but your cables neatly in the back box , and the plasterer will just plaster over them so you can’t find the outlet . Plasterers are not all alike though , some will go the extra mile and clean the boxes out . Some you win some you lose 😂 Great video Regards Mike 👍
Nic,.. I can't believe that you tightened up the Terminals on that double socket with a screwdriver that looked like a 7 mm blade....?... that driver is for ceiling roses...?
Write on the cables + wall in future if they still cut them smash the plasterer of the wall and tell him he has to come back
yep exactly our response when that sh** happens. Only we don't tell them. We just do it
@@TheChipmunk2008 there’s no need for it . I have a plasterer friend who is spot on . Can plaster round boxes with lengths of cable and ... get this... every box CLEAN! Then there’s another one who cuts the cables and fills the boxes ... his name rhymes with hunt
@@bradh2066 Exactly. That is why i use the pejorative term mudslinger for the guys who give the trade a bad name. Turns out the trick is to let them either skim over the box (tuck the cables flush) or let the boarder tuck your cables up while you drill a pilot that you inform them under pain of death, must be left open. Most trades want an easy life... it's when you never meet, that the animosity happens. because you never get to talk, and then never understand each other's needs. Predrilling downlight holes leads to plasterers getting covered in plaster, apparently. Our response was 'errr want us to put the lights in first?'
12:16 giving the twin & earth a light cut in the inside of the box to strip the cable looks dodgy for me as an apprentice, I would be afraid i cut the cable or expose copper
It takes a lot of practice with the same tool to get good at it, if you swap to new cutters there's a good chance you'll mark the inner cores. I used to do it with a knife (basically the same thing) now I just use the knipex tool it's easier.
Good to be cautious. It does take skill, and even now i sometimes mess up using cutters as strippers. With the scenario Nick showed here tho, decent quality grommets won't allow damage to the cable :)
@@effervescence5664 LOL, I had a new pair of cutters the other day. Went to strip some cat6 (just for belling out, for actual termination i do it right). Cut the core short 7 times in a row till i got used to it. Damn knipex cutters!
@@TheChipmunk2008 Yeah I swapped from old CK cable sheers to the Knipex 5 in 1 a while back and did the same thing. Got to admit though I probably have more cable striping tools than anything else currently. It just speeds up 2nd fix so much.
30 seconds in and I've got a Pearl Jam song in my head for some reason
nick i watched you terminate double socket but wheres the earth loop from metal back box into socket?
2:19 what on earth goes through the other trades minds, thinking it's ok to mess with the cables?
My lead on one site arrived early to take a delivery and found an electrician had pulled our bundle of Cat5 out of the ceiling and was _swinging on it._ Stretched everything all to hell, broke half the wires, and walked away laughing.
I don't think he realized at the time that part of that cabling was stuff that _he_ depended on for completion. The extra day it cost us ran out his permits (always factor for slippage).
What happened with Adam’s down lights?
Why do you put insulation on the ground after you strip the sheathing off? Is that code in the UK? If this is a dumb question, then I was just kidding. In the US we leave the grounds bare copper unless we're using mc cable that comes with an insulated ground.
Splendid work. Really precise. 👊
Shame the “plasterer” can’t use bonding around a chase or dot and dab without breaking the board. 🤔
Why are the earthing wires not already covered?
After over an hour of looking i found my van keys inside the sub woofer for the surround sound I only found them because I moved it in temper and heard a rattle opened it up and there was all sorts in it 🤣
@Barry Foster ha ha ha ha I bet she only found them when she changed a stinky nappie 🤣🤣🤣
Had a well known security company cut my cctv cable to fish their fire alarm cable down. took me ages to trace the fault as the run was huge and was right at the end of the run. Happens all the time in the security industry.
Aaron looks more like Aquaman
Never known a 'plasterer' unable to 'plaster' a chase. Isn't that what the first coat/ browning is for?
Normally by sticking a warning label on the switches warning ⚠️ of live cables generally stops plasterer cutting the cables if you can’t tuck em in the box 📦 and normally I do. And write on the wall clean the boxes out. Then you can’t be blamed if the plaster gets damaged when cleaning the boxes. Only thing I do also is stripping the cables back to test after 1st fix. And get in first to 2nd fix before the kitchen fitter to drill holes in your cables. 😂
A metre long cables hanging out of the boxes would have caused a nightmare for the plasterers. It works both ways guys.
It must cost a fortune for wiring a the amount of wire has to be cut off all you need is about 4 to 6 inches and roll back into the back box.
If you don't want someone cutting your cables,..... Always mark them up and curl them neatly into your metal box.... !
Rant over...😄
Great videos, how long will we wait for wago, push fit connectors sockets in the UK ?
till BS1363 is changed. which is easy but yknow...
internal politics
I love watching this guys videos hes a very good electrician
Do you need to use a torque screwdriver at the sockets or just the consumer unit .
Fantastic video I’m definitely getting some of those cutters.
To stop others messing with cables, might be an idea to turn up on site unannounced when other trades are active.
Leave them live.
Piss in his plaster bucket.
When using the laser line do you measure the ceiling and mark it in two different spots then try line up the laser? It takes me bloody ages to line up any tips would be appreciated
Get a laser with a spotter built in. Mark your two mark as you said then line the spotter directly under the first mark and swivel laser onto the second. Only takes fraction of the time!
Bosch Professional cross line laser GCL 2-15 (red laser, interior, with plumb points, working range: 15 m, 3 x AA batteries, RM 1 rotating mount, laser target plate, protective bag) www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FLJ6DO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_tEQXFbHQ7599K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
do you not earth the back boxes ?
I use a telecomms cable tracer for such belling out. it has a continuity light on it too... so when you think you found it, just short the pair, and the light comes on
Why put every earth under one screw? Wouldnt it potentially make a bad earth connection.
Weird - in Australia the ground wire is insulated so you don't have to sleeve them like you do.
Us in the uk are way behind the times in both electrics and plumbing and actually even in construction!!
Just curious. Why no cpc to the back box? 🤔
How come you dont use both earth terminals on double sockets ?
8:16 aren't you supposed to put a brown sleeve on the blue cable?
I Notice that you didn’t put an earth cable on the metal box and socket.
im in thailand and was shocked by the low standards here (well not literally) anyway Ive done my own earthing system based on bonding all the metal rebar (foundatioon are all below ground and cement large areas) together with welds and thick jumpers the whole house is bonded to the metal roof rafters (no wood is used) This also leads to the "air terminals" for lightning conducting this is called an UFER GROUNDING system. look it up. The tossers here come straight out of college and actually twist bunches of wires together then tape over them with flimsy scotch tape which doesnt last very long and the dont understand the meaning of earthing and safety earthing. If you are coming to live here bring basic test gear including an earth loop impedance meter and a decent Fluke Ive also brought over boxes of outlets and use all british plugs stopping anyone from connecting their thai/chinese junk - manic -
Cables should be in back box or its a nightmare to plaster
Thanks a lot for this video.......i was waiting for this video stay blessed 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Stay blessed.... Merry Christmas and keep the change
hi could any one tell me where you can get the Waska boxes with those rubber grommet things that you can cut to the size of the cable? I want to install cctv this weekend and the cables are already made up by manufacture. thanks. love the channel I sit waiting for the next episode to drop. I want to retrain as an electrician but it is a bit of a mine field to find a course that fits and seems legit.
What cable strippers are you using?
If the sparks don’t put the cables in the boxes then snip snip. You be lazy so will we 😎👍
Then you just fill the whole thing with mud coz you’re to idle to go round & clean them back
Working all hours An electricians life 👍
Can I ask where did you get your work top from ?
Hey nick, at the super nice socket with wagos, what’s the story with the neutral and phase being in the same connector? Is that the cable for the undone under cupboard lights?
That’s what he said, the currently unused cable.
no tag wire ?
Keep them coming! Hope you find your hat 🧢 🤣 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
If you leave all your cables really long then it's gonna be pretty hard for them to identify which ones you actually needed leaving long.
Cut most of them off to 200-300mm and then coil up and tape the ones that needed a metre on them.
If you leave a metre on everything just hanging out of the walls it looks like you've walked off and left the job half finished. The bloke probably thought he was doing you a favour finishing it off for you
I once did a very large Newbuild and I never use to tuck my cables in the back box well the plasterers cut every cable to the bottom of the box in the house IE 2 inch lol from then on I always put cables in the boxes
I think I would have ripped every drop out, replaced the cable and told the plasterer the place was ready for him.
So you let the plasterer bully you. Now they think their requirements are more important than anyone else’s
@@electricery lol no fucker bully’s me since I left school 😂but when I came back to the job and the gang of plasterers had gone I spotted the problem and I told client it will cost more simple as that but I also now make sure my cables stay the length in need and in the 38 years I have been doing it it’s only happened once.
@@kevinpickett7249 Its part of the plasterers inbreeding that they think everybody needs to panda to them and forget they are actually working for the end client, even if they are subbed to the builder its still the end client that expects a professional job. Good you charged for the additional cost, probably lost the plasterer future work or maybe they got a chargeback.
You need to write on your cables in Albanian/Russian/Lithuanian. So the Eastern European goat herder turned plasterer/plumber/carpenter knows not to cut them!!
nah just track them down and smack em
leave them live, will serve them right
Hi, your fitting of the double socket, great but no cpc flying lead to back box?
Good practice yes but no need if there’s a fixed lug on the box
Fixed lug bonds the backbox and faceplate using the screw. Only time they’d be separated is if you removed the faceplate from the backbox, which shouldn’t be done live anyway.
Huh ive always stripped the pvc as far back as it can go, might try this instead.
I had some cables cut off 2 lots singles through trunking about 40 m run bends etc rolled up and tucked out of way,but that's the "cornish telephone company" for you .
Seeing the loops going to the switches gives me much hope for the future. There is some nice automated home tech out their that most people can't use fully.
I've never met an electrician yet who chases the conduit far enough into the wall. It's like a genetic disorder.
Good conduit should always be 25mm galvanised and fixed on the surface to saddles then you only have to install after the plasterer has done his bit. Never install a ring main always run individual radials the industrial way. Hate House bashing.
Can you give a link for the ideal strippers the one adam2.0 was using but not the knipdx ones
Nice to know you named a tool after me :)
Don't you earth the back boxes?
Where do you get your coat from?
If its a plasterer I have worked with before and we have an agreement that I tuck the cables in and he cleans out the wet plaster from boxes I do it. If I don't know the plasterer the cables get left out cos am I fuck playing cable archeology chipping away at solid plaster trying to dig my cables out.
No hat? That thing needed a wash
Devil’s advocate question: when labels have been removed, why not use a telecoms tone generator to identify the cores?
I think a lot of electricians don't know that toners exist. Thank god that they do though, a toner + wand made my life at least a hundred times easier when I used to service network cabling in schools. Apparently labels were never installed on the wall jacks :'^)
Excellent work and thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
What's the product number for the snickers jacket your wearing?
Not sure I’ll have a look dude
Nice vid as usual buddy those knipex strippers look smart mate 🤙🤙
14:00 shouldnt the back box be earthed too?
Back box most likely has a fixed lug on one side of it so its earthed through the fixing screws from the socket.
I still earth them every time.
@@Leem3155 Wait you're relying on screws into plasterboard to 'earth' stuff? So by that reckoning we can just screw metal lights up to board and everything's fine? Sounds dodgy to me.
@@electricalstuff259 No the screws fastening the socket face to the metal back box, they are earthed via the sockets earth connection. Im not on about the screws fixing the box to the wall.
@@electricalstuff259 BS7671 does stipulate that the metal boxes require earthing. However, so long as the socket is manufactured to BS1363 and the back box has at least one "FIXED" lug it is ok
Notice many companies are trying to copy MK sockets.
You should call those strippers baby alien.
15:48 the plaster cut the wires and still didn’t bother to plaster round the socket?
He sounds like a right arrogant dick, wants everything easy for himself.
Cutting cables is inexcusable but why put boxes in the wall if the cables are going in cupboards, it obviously confused the brain dead plasterer. My cupboard feeds are left at plinth height, dosnt trouble the spreads then.
The plaster work around that switch looks really bad and uneven mate. Sack the plasterer.
Great job
PLEASE!!!!! Give him a hairnet.But no manbun, please!
good work everyone nick can you ask Aaron how long does his hair to dry after washing 😁😁
12.16 I winced and have been in the game over 4 decades. lol
My son hide my work boots behind his dresser
Good video as per usual
stunning.......like a young billy connolly lol
Sorry....am.....where is your batman cap?