I wouldn’t worry about that .015” it will get tighter over time. Some guys including myself have purposely set all 8 @ as close to .015” as possible as a target in performance 3rz’s. Woodward supply in Clackamas Ore sells the 28mm shim kits that go from 2.5mm up to 3.7mm thickness.
I forgot to mention that Timmy the Toolman has a great video on setting valve clearances. This video was more for documentation for warranty purposes. I’ve got the oil changed so I am going to do the 0-60 test this weekend.
Ignore the crank position dot. I will say the crank pully can slip on the rubber. Neither of my 3rzs line up the dot with the cam dots. Also the dial calipers work but i ended up getting a mitutoyo 0 to 1 inch micrometer. The dude at yota1 said they set the engines up with the larger shim sizes to give plenty of room for adjustment.
I just ordered a new harmonic balancer, been experiencing some vibration for a few years now so I am banking on the rubber being torn. Hopefully I can get the crank and bolt off and back on. Wish I would have found this out on step 2 of getting the engine back in…
I wouldn’t worry about that .015” it will get tighter over time. Some guys including myself have purposely set all 8 @ as close to .015” as possible as a target in performance 3rz’s.
Woodward supply in Clackamas Ore sells the 28mm shim kits that go from 2.5mm up to 3.7mm thickness.
Awesome video
I forgot to mention that Timmy the Toolman has a great video on setting valve clearances. This video was more for documentation for warranty purposes. I’ve got the oil changed so I am going to do the 0-60 test this weekend.
Ignore the crank position dot. I will say the crank pully can slip on the rubber. Neither of my 3rzs line up the dot with the cam dots. Also the dial calipers work but i ended up getting a mitutoyo 0 to 1 inch micrometer. The dude at yota1 said they set the engines up with the larger shim sizes to give plenty of room for adjustment.
I just ordered a new harmonic balancer, been experiencing some vibration for a few years now so I am banking on the rubber being torn. Hopefully I can get the crank and bolt off and back on. Wish I would have found this out on step 2 of getting the engine back in…