You're welcome mate. I'm always happy to support like minded channels. I reckon we need to encourage each other cause it can be a hard gig sometimes. All the best for 2021.
My sincere thanks Richard for the great questions and answers for improving my nightscape work. NO sir, you are the "Legend" my friend, me and Wendy have a lot to thank you for that's for sure. Thank you for the consideration on my question and really look forward to the tutorial. Happy New Year to you and the family Richard. 🌌🪐🌠 A true GENT indeed.. 🙏👍🙏
Thanks this was a great Q&A. Someone asked the d750 vs z6 question that I had so I was excited to see that. Just got a Z6 and I'm excited to try it at night. Lots of other good info as well so you picked out great questions.
Hi Richard, Thank you for providing the answers to these questions. As a beginner in Astrophotography, I find these sessions both informative and directly applicable to my journey of learning in this special area of photography. Your images clearly tells the story you want to portray.
Hi Richard, I moved from crop sensor to full frame this year, I think part of the reason people jump at 12-16mm lenses may be that a crop sensor turns it into a 24 mm effective lens. Now with full frame, 24 mm is definitely about as wide as I’d go, in fact I love my 50mm 1.2 at night
Richard, Happy New Year. You are a truely inspirational photographer. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share you knowledge. It is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Richard. Just back from 2 hrs of putting into practice what I've learnt from you these past 6 months. It's flippin' freezing here in Co. Cavan tonight and I've come to realise just how much effort goes into your vids, between setting up the camera to record you taking the pictures, especially the ones where you walk OR drive out of shot and then have to return to retrieve gear. I've numb fingers from setting the one camera, as well as poncing about in the dark! Then comes the post prod work Still, no worries here about spiders, crocs, snakes, etc since St Patrick did the needful.😊😊 Am I the only one looking 4ward to 2021? Wishing you a 💰💰 one.
Great vid Richard. I have a friend who uses the hand warmers that you can buy for warming your cold hands in your gloves. He wraps them around his lens with a rubber band. They make great lens warmers without having to worry about power supplies. Also cheap to buy.😀
Great Q & A video Richard. Happy New Year mate. A lot of great info in this for astrophotographers. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. Like you, I used to sit and look up at the stars on our old water tank stand when I grew up in the country. Biggest highlight for me was watching the Space Shuttle Columbia fly directly over head (large bright moving star) on it's first ever test flight with John Young and Robert Crippen on board.🙏📸💫
Thanks so much Adrian. It's amazing how those early experiences shape our creative vision when we're older isn't it .. !! All the very best for 2021 mate.
Happy New Year to you and your lovely family. May the starry skies be with you at all times and bring along the totally amazing pictures you’re showing to us as we are begging to, just be able to achieve part of the awesome 👏 work you do as a night photographer. May the “Rum Ball Witch” give you as much of them as you want for 2021 and on, obviously! 😂 I learn so much from what you do. Thank you. You are and will always be my Hero. 🥰♥️🥰♥️ Question: star tracker ? Which one be the best and if you plan using it more, can you explain a little as you go on ?
Haha, thanks so much Carole. I really do appreciate your kind words of encouragement and support. I have a new star tracker on order and I'll certainly be doing more videos on these in the coming weeks. Stay tuned.
Thank you for all these answers. I not only learned a lot, but you also confirmed some observations I have had and wondered if it was just me, e.g. lower ISO’s reducing ambient noise.
Thank You again Richard for this Q and A video. I once again learned alot. The long exsposure info for 4 grounds will help me for my tracked shots. I look forward to your star tracking methods for Landscape Astro. I have been playing around with the Move Shoot Move and find it very easy to use. I was getting frustrated with my Ioptron Sky Guider Pro( IPolar) It great for Deep Sky but can be a hassel for Landscape. I have been placing my camera Tracked Sky photo in front of my subject( old farm machinery) Then I move my camera back behind my subject and take regular 4 ground . Then blend together in post. I look forward to your methods. Thanks Again Sean from Canada
Hey Sean, thanks so much for watching. I have a Sky Guider Pro including ipolar on order so we'll see how that goes. I think here in the Southern hemisphere the ipolar may be worth the effort. I like your method of finding clear sky for the tracked shots and then moving back to the foreground subject.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hi Richard, thank you for getting back to me. I'm sure you will do well with the Ipolar SkyGuider pro maybe I'm need more patience with it. It is a beast and has great battery life. It doesn't feel the cold weather -20°C that I have used it in.
Thanks again, Richard! Such good questions asked and great answers given! I appreciate your channel and look forward to them! Wishing you and your family the very best in 2021!
Good stuff Richard!! I came across your channel a few weeks ago. I've been an amateur photographer for years and been doing astrophotography (DSOs and planetary) for about 15 years. I have never done this type of photography but it seems to be a perfect mix of my current photography types. You videos have been extremely helpful and inspiring. I've been enjoying these immensely! I'm waiting impatiently for the Milkyway cores return and am scouting shoot sites now. I will be doing some shots sans MW.... but like you, really prefer to have it in the shot.... especially the core. Thanks again for all the knowledge you are providing. Bill G.
Happy New year Richard, thanks for the selection of so many interesting questions and honest answers and the prospect of some future tutorials covering processing techniques I have not yet explored.
Hi Richard, Thanks for addressing a lot of questions that I am also looking for the answers. Regarding to Tracking , I would love to see you teach us how to blend the tracking sky with foreground seemlessly. Thanks again.
I really love to watch your videos while having breakfast, they are very peaceful, always giving me new ideas and your voice is very comfortable to listen to, so I directly have another question, maybe for an upcoming Q&A video: You sound like a very professional speaker, do you technically reduce breathing noises and are you taking notes or do you write a script before you shoot a video?
Thank you so much for watching the video, I really appreciate your comments. I do often write notes but not on this video. I don't specifically do anything special with breathing. I'm using a wireless lapel microphone.
You never fail to amaze us. Love the videos you're putting out for us. Keep it up Richard like always! I can see your channel and videos have grown over the months.🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼👍🏼 Remeber us when you grow!😂
Awesome video Richard. I thought I'd get one or 2 tips from this video. Turns out every answer seemed to give me something. Thank so much for your content. Wishing you all the best in 2021.
All the best in the New Year Richard and looking forward to future editions. I would "ditto" that I'd be very interested seeing your approach in editing panorama's done with different F-stops for the forground/background. Maybe include stacking if time allows. Also, I can't help but wonder if a 50mm panaramo would help bring out more detail for us people living in the Northern Hemesphere? Basically doing a 20mm pano equivelent with a 50mm lens. I know you did a video with the different lenses, which suggests there may be an advantage to going this route. Could be something to discuss in the future pano video.
Thanks a lot for watching Rob. Yes I have done a few images with different focal length lenses and love using the 35 and 50's whenever I can. I'll certainly feature these more this year.
Happy New Year Richard, Good questions, good answers. looking forward for another year of great australian nightscapes. Greeting Steffen P.S. ans finally the the rum ball mystery is lifted :-)
Great video and great answers. Really admire how humble ypu are admitting not to be the expert, but nevertheless your work is out of this world. Keep safe Mr Richard.
Happy New Year Richard. A great start to the New Year, I really enjoyed the video. The box brownie was interesting, how many MBs did it have ? :-) And I nearly died when I saw that spider, it looked enormous! I look forward to further episodes, particularly on tracking and panoramas. Take care
Hi Richard. You're by far my favorite teacher in the nightscape arena. Your enthusiasm inspires me to get out there as often as I can. You mentioned using orange gels on your torch when light painting. Do you favor one particular density of gel such as full, 1/2 or 1/4 CTO? Thanks again.
Thanks a lot for your kind words Kevin. Yes I generally use 1/2 cto gels for my general light painting. Sometimes I'll attach a full cto gel to a light . .often inside a building to warm up the scene a little. See this video at 4:08 ruclips.net/video/9FkVydUtVCY/видео.html
Happy New Year Richard and thank you for yet another video full of inspiring ideas and great advice. In my situation I dont have the option to afford the great new gear you usually use but ive been very happy with the results from my (very) old Sony mirrorless!
Thanks a lot Tony. I have thought about it but the time differences all around the world make it difficult. Here in Australia we are so far ahead of everyone I'd find myself talking to myself . .as well as a few Aussie mates ...!!!
Great video Richard as always. With the problem with your computer fan being noisy...I bought a HP Spectre and had the same problem. I fixed it by going to the start up menu an turning off what I thought I didn't need to run on startup. This fixed it and the computer is going great. Might be worth a computer geek checking out for you? See you In April all covid things going well!!!
Thanks a lot Kim. I think it's because when I'm doing editing the computer has to work a lot harder. The fan isn't always on but I think that's just how they are. I know I can turn off some of the heat management system but then I'd be worried about the computer running too hot. Hopefully April will be good.
Happy New Year Richard, hoping this year brings us both many opportunities to get out under the night sky. I have been following the channel for a couple of years now but have not had the confidence yet to produce my own images.
Hey Chris, thanks so much for your support. I reckon you could get out there in 2021 and just give it a go .. you have nothing to lose but as whole lot to gain. I'm always happy to help if you need it.
Richard that was so interesting ,concerning coming across people at night that bothered me when i did solo wild camping and then astro photography but the more you do these things you come to a conclusion that its all in your mind and now i never think about that because im so focussed on photography that fear at night doesnt even come into my thinking and i always go alone at night ,this might help other photographers feeling like this but the more you do something the better you feel .Feel the fear but do it anyway.well happy new year and 4 months to go and ill be back out under the stars.
Thanks very much for watching Phill. Yes it's just one of those things that people have to get used to .. and then realise that there is never anyone else out there in the dark.
Go and get yourself a beer sport I think you deserve it excellent Q&A really enjoy it trying to get my head round wait to start with this kind of photography. I am fortunate enough to live in the UK in a place called Creek Abbey and I have an old abbey ruins at the bottom of the garden so I have the subject just haven’t got any idea where to start thank you for your time
What a way to start the New Year and many thanks. Let's hope for Happy Star trails for this year! BTW I was going to ask earlier but why do you recommend LENR to be turned off...just wondering
Thanks so much John, really appreciate you watching. The vast majority of the shots I take are multiple exposures .. that is I take many images one after the other to stack or blend later in the post processing. Also I take a lot of panoramas. So when doing this i need to take these images as quickly and close together as possible. When you enable long exposure noise reduction in camera, it takes another long exposure of exactly the same duration immediately after each shot .. this is to help reduce the noise of the image. The problem here is that if my shutter speed is 20 seconds for example, then I have to wait an extra 20 seconds for this process to happen .. therefore delaying my sequence of shots. The bottom line is . .it takes too much time and with my camera and lens setup I get great results without it.
for the best results its best to use both tracking and stacking in conjunction. usually from 40-50 dark sky 3-5 minute exposures for sky tracked are ideal for good Signal to noise ratio.
Yes no doubt about that for sure. A lot of people will struggle to use a simple tracker and get those exposure times for that long .. and therein lies the challenge for us all.
Happy new year Richard, to you and your family, thanks for all your hard work. Is long exposure foreground better for big areas where light painting would be tricky or annoy other photograhers?
Thanks so much for watching again Suzanne. Yes long exposure foregrounds are ideal for expansive landscapes or where there may be other photographers around.
Happy New Year Richard very informative video as usual, one question that wasn't asked is how do you track the Milky Way core from day to day to know when and where it will appear in the night sky? Cheers Eric
Great Q&A! At the beginning, you are displaying some gorgeous photos, I especially love that seascape at 3:11. Do you remember what video is it (if there's a video for that image)? To add a bit to the discussion of that 2nd question, I'm interested in your experience: at the moment, I also only do stacked images when doing nightscape images. I have a star tracker that I also want to try but I'm wondering if pushing the exposure time is not becoming problematic, as it increases massively, I think, the risk to have a plane/satellite/meteor trail in the frame. What's your experience so far? There must be some satellites even above Australia, right? :) (actually, I think you might also have less such annoyance than North America or Europe). At 16:05, you are saying that Nikon is ISO invariant, but I think you are incorrect. Some models are (were?), like your D750, but from the data I can lookup on photonstophoto website, the Z6 is not. You have a switch at ISO 800 (here's the link to see by yourself, select the camera on the right: www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/RN_e.htm). I guess you don't notice it in practice because you are always above ISO 800. For fun, looking at your first camera (what a camera!), and your experiment to build a tracker back when you were a kid, did you see a recent video from Nebula Photos where he actually build a home-made star tracker? worth seeing (ruclips.net/video/P_qqLA0WKJg/видео.html). And, as always, thanks for sharing your experience and your great photos. Always love watching your channel.
Thanks again for your comments Flexable. That seascape image is featured in this video where I'm talking about star trackers. ruclips.net/video/6ZJxZx83_5o/видео.html I did see that videos from Nebula Photos. Again I appreciate you watching.
Richard hi love the tuition very clear and to the point, I have one question about lightroom, in the develop module in the basic menu how do you scroll through the basic editing options without using the bar along the side, this is a very simple function but I cant seem to find the option. thanks Richard
Hey Shane. All of the tabs have a little sideways arrow which expand down when you click on it. I just use my mouse wheel to scroll down the various menu options. It's effectively the same as rolling the side bar down. Is that helpful ..???
Richard!!! That spider 👀👀👀 I'd be out of there like a shot!! Great video. I'm working on some night scapes next week , as I unexpectedly have a couple of weeks off work, so Ill be around Bendigo next week...tried to get into Rostrata but it's booked out!! We should catch up...
Thanks a lot Carmel. I didn't actually know the spider was there at the time .. but he was only a huntsman ..!!! I'll see how I go . .I'm going to be away for a bit as well in the next weeks.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Richard, I'm having a lot of trouble with printing...I have calibrated my monitor etc, but whenever I get a photo printed, it never looks as it should, ie, what I see on my screen..Not so much the colour tint (although that is a bit off).but more so the exposure or contrast. I don't print at home but I'm finding difficult to find a consistent printing company
@@carmelthomson9917 This is a very common problem that lots of people face when printing night photography images. I always brighten up my images before printing them. The computer monitor is backlit and therefore gives the images more dynamics which can make us think they are brighter than what they are in print. Also make sure you capture images in SRGB format in camera and that you edit and export in that format also in Lightroom/Photoshop. I've noticed a difference for the better when using that colour space. Also these low light and high iso images will always be difficult to print as the blacks often don't come out as pure black but rather a muddy grey. This is partly because of the lesser dynamic range used because of setting our iso so high and partly because printers in general struggle with printing blacks. I've had better results with gloss paper in this regard. As you probably already know, nightscape images are the hardest to take and the hardest to edit . .so it sort of makes sense that they are the hardest to print. And finally the printer makes a difference. You'll notice that even with small prints from Harvey Norman or K/Mart . .all prints and printers are not equal. You need to try a few printing houses and see if you can get a better result. Hope that's a little helpful.
Well done Richard, another informative video. I shoot Canon, the 7D MKII, and 5D MKII. I cannot find Canon lens at 20mm f1.8. Sigma has one close but would like to hear your comments on this issue as the input I am getting is that Canon does not have the resolution to capture really good night sky images. What are your thoughts on this ?
Thanks a lot Charles. Canon don't make a 20mm f1.8. The only options are Sigma 20mm f1.4 or Samyang 20mm f1.8. There will be some coma on the Sigma but I know quite a few people who use that lens and love it. I've not had much to do with the Samyang 20mm f1.8 but I'd be wary of their quality control. The Canon cameras are just as good as any other brand for shooting nightscapes .. just don't under-expose them too much. They don't recover shadow details as well as some others. The later model Canons are brilliant though .. especially the mirrorless models.
If you go for a Laptop as Workstation, I would recommend the Dell Precision 7750, a great Laptop, 17" display and plenty options for konfiguration. But I don't know anything about the availability in your region.
That was excellent and explains a lot of questions that I had in mind. Regarding wide lenses, I have two Loawa 15mm lenses, the original is heavy with lots of distortions and vignetting plus macro but the other newer version, no macro but nil distortion if you would like to check it out. Since then they have bought other primes 60mm and others in the same line with nil distortions. Thanks enjoyed this video as usual and hope you will have a great 2021. Cheers
Thanks very much for watching Victor. You must be reading my mind. I have just placed an order for a Loawa 15mm f2 Nikon Z mount. I've been testing the new Nikon Z14-24 f2.8S and it's a good lens but way too expensive for me.
@@nightscapeimages.richard you must be getting an updated or new version as mine is a Sony a7r2 fit and dates back to 2017 where I used it in OZ on our first visit there. Look forward to you testing it. Thanks.
Very true Arnie. I found these recently. www.ebay.com.au/itm/500000mAh-Ultra-thin-External-Power-Bank-2-USB-Battery-Charger-For-Mobile-Phone/333877369745?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=542964885493&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
regarding the lens distortion at panoramas, there is one factor which reduces the problems. Perspective distortion. The center of spin of your panorama should be in the lens not in the camera body. There is a procedure to check if it has been reduced
Yes you're talking about the nodal point of the lens. It is something that is important . .especially with close objects in the foreground. What I'm talking about is wide angle lens distortion . .where the edges of the frame are not as straight as a longer focal length lens. Appreciate you watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I got your point. I was adding other distortion source. The features of different mapping transformation of the software used also allows better results. Microsoft has a free software with lots if them. Image Composite
Hi. First, sad that I didnt ask it before. Do you have courage to show us your first pictures? The reason is simple. Many of us go out for the first time and are disappointed later what we get. Little 10 minut video😉? You are the best. Fan from Estonia (place where you never see milkyway core)!
Thanks a lot for watching jutlustajax. I have quite a lot of videos which show my post processing. In these you will see the images before I do any editing and then the final product. I appreciate you following my work. All the best for 2021.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I mean pictures, when you started with nightscape pictures. Your first pictures, if you still have them? I really like to see them. Some failures, your first big success. First picture, where you are really happy, where you get IT.
Hi Richard, first of all thank you so much for the influence you are making for new photographers. I tried astro with 20mm f/1.8 nikkor lens on full frame body in class 2 and 3 light polluted area but everytime I get either nothing with 15sec exposure @ 2500 ISO and f/2.8 or getting white image with 20sec exposure @ 6400 ISO and f/2.8. Am I doing anything wrong here? Is there any setting to be changed in camera? My second question is whether I need to do focus calibration of my 20mm f/1.8 lens as I dont get sharp photos even after focusing properly on tripod using remote shutter
Thanks for watching the channel Shutter Snaps. That's strange behaviour. What camera body are you using ..?? When you say you get nothing . .is there anything showing at all on the screen or is it just black ..?? Is the camera working fine in daytime shooting ..?? Focusing on stars is difficult . .it requires lots of practice. Make sure the auto focus is off completely.
@@pixelpatch1900 I have never seen a camera with a faulty sensor. In the daytime do you use auto focus .. if so does that work ..??? It is possible that you may have a fault in the lens. Have you tried other lenses ..??
@@pixelpatch1900 I'm sorry but I've never seen anything like this. The D850 is a rock solid camera. I would suggest taking it into a camera repair shop for evaluation.
Well it's a bit of a long and winding rabbit hole .. very expensive and time consuming. I like the images but I do prefer shooting with a landscape foreground.
Yep I brought a Samyang Ultra Wide lens when I first started !I have issues when using it such as capturing the glow of the Red Led on Canon cameras in the foreground on the right hand corner among other issues on a Full Frame camera I have since Bought a 20mm ! In Regards to Leigh Kasey-Cameron I would lean towards doing longer Exposures at lower ISO's for minutes at a time and stacking them with some low level lighting to give best Results! And check out Lincoln Harrison for more Information on the Colored Star trails he has a tutorial on his site costs $100 and you receive four Video files of over an Hour each so Drink plenty of Coffee as the coloured star trails is a lot of work....
Hey Darren. I had one of those lenses and eventually sold it . .I could never get it sharp. Others love it however. On a crop sensor it's going to be about 32mm focal length which is getting a bit long. You may be better off going for the Samyang 16mm f2 if you are going to stick with the crop sensor body. Not sure that's helpful or not.
@@nightscapeimages.richard very helpful, ive been watching other reviews on the lack of sharpness..so youve confirmed that. My current wide angle is the tamron 10-24mm, not sharp either. Thanks for the reply. Love what you do.
Hello, I am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for remote control intervalometers. I want to be able to set up the camera and walk away to lightpaint, (50-100 meters) and then press start on the intervalometer. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. You can get a simple wireless shutter release to do what you want. I use and recommend the Yongnuo rf603ii. It's simple and rugged. If you need this device to also be an intervalometer then that's a different thing. I tend to prefer the simple cheap wired versions of intervalometer because typically you're always very close to the camera and they are easy to use and reliable. I've seen many people have connection issues with wireless intervalometers. Yongnuo remote shutter release: www.amazon.com.au/YONGNUO-RF-603-Wireless-Trigger-generation/dp/B00HRSW3TE
@@nightscapeimages.richard No worries. I've been subscribed since this time last year...ish. This channel was a great help during lockdown. Had the time to learn a new side of Photography, (I'm just a beginner with all sides of photograph.) I have a wired intervalometer also. There's just a few shots I've planned that being remote would be handier. If you were light painting a large structure 50-100 meters away, say like a bridge, large tree or rock out crop? What type of torch would you use? I have a LED 1200 Lumens torch (can change to 300 Lumens) with 40mm front face... It's bright but is a bigger faced torch with a wider beam, better? (less painting to do on any given surface?) A wider "paint" brush... so to speak?
@@TheOne-er7nk I still use a pretty standard torch. The LED Lenser P7 series. I do tend to zoom the torch a bit to "Throw" the light further depending on distance but that does make the light painting process more difficult to get consistency. You may well be fine using the light you have. All you can do is experiment. With large structures there are always compromises. I'll be keen to see how you go.
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Legend, thanks for the shout out! Thanks for answering the question
You're welcome mate. I'm always happy to support like minded channels. I reckon we need to encourage each other cause it can be a hard gig sometimes. All the best for 2021.
@@nightscapeimages.richard you too mate! This year might be especially difficult for Astro!
Congrats and thank you so much for your amazing work Richard, one of the best RUclips channels! Clear skies and a happy New Year!
Thanks very much George, I really appreciate your great support.
My sincere thanks Richard for the great questions and answers for improving my nightscape work. NO sir, you are the "Legend" my friend, me and Wendy have a lot to thank you for that's for sure. Thank you for the consideration on my question and really look forward to the tutorial. Happy New Year to you and the family Richard. 🌌🪐🌠
A true GENT indeed.. 🙏👍🙏
Thank you so much Royston. I very much value your great support and encouragement. May your 2021 be the best year yet.
Thanks this was a great Q&A. Someone asked the d750 vs z6 question that I had so I was excited to see that. Just got a Z6 and I'm excited to try it at night. Lots of other good info as well so you picked out great questions.
Thanks so much for watching, I really appreciate your comments.
Thanks Richard. My weekly inspirational fix!
Thanks very much for watching Robert, really appreciated.
Hi Richard, Thank you for providing the answers to these questions. As a beginner in Astrophotography, I find these sessions both informative and directly applicable to my journey of learning in this special area of photography. Your images clearly tells the story you want to portray.
Thanks again David for your encouraging comments.
Hi Richard, I moved from crop sensor to full frame this year, I think part of the reason people jump at 12-16mm lenses may be that a crop sensor turns it into a 24 mm effective lens. Now with full frame, 24 mm is definitely about as wide as I’d go, in fact I love my 50mm 1.2 at night
Yes that's a very good point you make Jeff. It's always interesting to get peoples thoughts on lens focal lengths.
Richard, Happy New Year. You are a truely inspirational photographer. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share you knowledge. It is greatly appreciated.
You're very welcome David. Thanks so much for watching. All the best for 2021.
Thanks, Richard. Just back from 2 hrs of putting into practice what I've learnt from you these past 6 months. It's flippin' freezing here in Co. Cavan tonight and I've come to realise just how much effort goes into your vids, between setting up the camera to record you taking the pictures, especially the ones where you walk OR drive out of shot and then have to return to retrieve gear. I've numb fingers from setting the one camera, as well as poncing about in the dark! Then comes the post prod work Still, no worries here about spiders, crocs, snakes, etc since St Patrick did the needful.😊😊 Am I the only one looking 4ward to 2021? Wishing you a 💰💰 one.
Thanks a lot for watching John, really appreciate your comments. I'm certainly looking forward to 2021.
No dull moments.. Neat answers and very useful video!! Thanks Richard.
Thanks very much for watching Vaithy.
Thanks Richard, great advice as usual, hope you had a great xmas & new year.
Thanks heaps as always Pete. Yes I had a wonderful Christmas and new year. All the best to you for 2021 mate.
Great vid Richard. I have a friend who uses the hand warmers that you can buy for warming your cold hands in your gloves. He wraps them around his lens with a rubber band. They make great lens warmers without having to worry about power supplies. Also cheap to buy.😀
Thanks a lot Andrew. Yes they can work fine as well. Appreciate you watching.
Great Q & A video Richard. Happy New Year mate. A lot of great info in this for astrophotographers. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. Like you, I used to sit and look up at the stars on our old water tank stand when I grew up in the country. Biggest highlight for me was watching the Space Shuttle Columbia fly directly over head (large bright moving star) on it's first ever test flight with John Young and Robert Crippen on board.🙏📸💫
Thanks so much Adrian. It's amazing how those early experiences shape our creative vision when we're older isn't it .. !! All the very best for 2021 mate.
Richard, thanks a lot for another great video. I wish you all the best and lots of beautifull pictures in 2021.
Thank you so much for watching again Branislav. All the best to you for 2021 also.
Happy New Year to you and your lovely family. May the starry skies be with you at all times and bring along the totally amazing pictures you’re showing to us as we are begging to, just be able to achieve part of the awesome 👏 work you do as a night photographer. May the “Rum Ball Witch” give you as much of them as you want for 2021 and on, obviously! 😂
I learn so much from what you do. Thank you. You are and will always be my Hero. 🥰♥️🥰♥️
Question: star tracker ? Which one be the best and if you plan using it more, can you explain a little as you go on ?
Haha, thanks so much Carole. I really do appreciate your kind words of encouragement and support. I have a new star tracker on order and I'll certainly be doing more videos on these in the coming weeks. Stay tuned.
Thank you once again for a very informative video, and I am greatly anticipating more to come in 2021. All the best to you and the family in 2021.
Thanks a lot Bob, I've appreciated your comments and support throughout the year.
Thank you for all these answers. I not only learned a lot, but you also confirmed some observations I have had and wondered if it was just me, e.g. lower ISO’s reducing ambient noise.
Thanks a lot for watching, always appreciate your comments.
Thank You again Richard for this Q and A video. I once again learned alot. The long exsposure info for 4 grounds will help me for my tracked shots. I look forward to your star tracking methods for Landscape Astro. I have been playing around with the Move Shoot Move and find it very easy to use. I was getting frustrated with my Ioptron Sky Guider Pro( IPolar) It great for Deep Sky but can be a hassel for Landscape.
I have been placing my camera Tracked Sky photo in front of my subject( old farm machinery)
Then I move my camera back behind my subject and take regular 4 ground . Then blend together in post.
I look forward to your methods.
Thanks Again Sean from Canada
Hey Sean, thanks so much for watching. I have a Sky Guider Pro including ipolar on order so we'll see how that goes. I think here in the Southern hemisphere the ipolar may be worth the effort. I like your method of finding clear sky for the tracked shots and then moving back to the foreground subject.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hi Richard, thank you for getting back to me. I'm sure you will do well with the Ipolar SkyGuider pro maybe I'm need more patience with it. It is a beast and has great battery life. It doesn't feel the cold weather -20°C that I have used it in.
@@seanmuller5145 That's really good to know Sean. It doesn't get that cold here but sounds like a solid unit.
Cheers for another great Q&A video Richard, very informative. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with this year.
Thanks a lot Bob, yes I'm really looking forward to 2021 . .all the very best to you.
Thank you so much for another excellent video from you. I really appreciate your enthusiasm and look forward for your upcoming great content.
Thanks a lot for watching Tim. I really appreciate your comments and support.
There were some great questions amongst that. Thanks for sharing Richard. All the Best for the new year
I really appreciate you having a look Paul. Thanks heaps for your support.
Thanks.....very informative as usual. Happy New Year and all the best in 2021 journeys....
Thanks very much Guy, all the best to you also as we journey through 2021.
Thanks again, Richard! Such good questions asked and great answers given! I appreciate your channel and look forward to them! Wishing you and your family the very best in 2021!
Thank you very much Gary. I wish you and the family a wonderful 2021 also.
Best wishes for 2021,cross fingers for the best.
Thanks very much Mario, same to you my friend.
Great video for beginning of new year. Lots of great questions :) Happy new year and more great shots a head to you Richard !!!!
Thank you for watching and I very much appreciate your input.
Lots of great information and tips for getting to work on nighscapes. Look forward to the rest of the year following you along.
Thanks a lot my friend. I hope you have an awesome year ahead.
Happy New Year Richard and thanks very much for answering my question.
Thanks a lot Bob, always happy to help when I can.
Thanks Richard. Well done mate. Here we go for 2021, all the best!!
Good on you John, I really appreciate your support. All the best for 2021.
Thanks again for all the information. Happy New Year.
Happy new year to you also Spence, thanks so much for your encouragement and food supplies along the way.
Happy new year to "down under". Brilliant Q&A. Thanks for your feedback on Star trails and dynamic range VS ISO dependency. 👍
No worries at all Stephan, thanks so much for watching my friend.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great content in your videos and awesome images. Happy new year mate!
Thanks a lot Roberto. I always very much appreciate your comments. All the best for 2021.
Good stuff Richard!! I came across your channel a few weeks ago. I've been an amateur photographer for years and been doing astrophotography (DSOs and planetary) for about 15 years. I have never done this type of photography but it seems to be a perfect mix of my current photography types. You videos have been extremely helpful and inspiring. I've been enjoying these immensely! I'm waiting impatiently for the Milkyway cores return and am scouting shoot sites now. I will be doing some shots sans MW.... but like you, really prefer to have it in the shot.... especially the core. Thanks again for all the knowledge you are providing.
Bill G.
Thanks so much for your kind words Bill, I really appreciate it. I'll be keen to see how you progress throughout 2021. Keep in touch.
Happy New year Richard, thanks for the selection of so many interesting questions and honest answers and the prospect of some future tutorials covering processing techniques I have not yet explored.
Thanks again for watching Peter. I'm looking forward to see what 2021 brings.
Cheers Richard 🍾 Happy New Year. I look forward to your wonderful style, enthusiasm, education in the coming year 🌙🌟 Thank you 👍🏿
Thank you so much for watching. Happy new year to you.
Excellent video again. Great questions and very informative answers.
Thanks heaps for watching Darrien
Happy New Year from the US! Thanks for all the helpful content
I'm very pleased to help. Thanks a lot for watching.
Hi Richard, Thanks for addressing a lot of questions that I am also looking for the answers. Regarding to Tracking , I would love to see you teach us how to blend the tracking sky with foreground seemlessly. Thanks again.
Thanks as always. That's always the big issue with tracked shots. I'll be doing more this year so I'll see how we go.
Me too, and am sure you will do a quality job Richard as usual
Awesome video Richard, thanks again for trying to help us novices out!!
I'm always happy to help if I can. Thanks a lot for watching.
Happy New Year, Richard! Looking forward to 2021 and hopefully some clear skies!
Thanks a lot Mike, yes clear skies and no virus sounds good to me.
Great way to start the new year... thanks Richard
Thanks very much for watching Kylie, appreciate your comments. Have a great 2021.
I really love to watch your videos while having breakfast, they are very peaceful, always giving me new ideas and your voice is very comfortable to listen to, so I directly have another question, maybe for an upcoming Q&A video: You sound like a very professional speaker, do you technically reduce breathing noises and are you taking notes or do you write a script before you shoot a video?
Thank you so much for watching the video, I really appreciate your comments. I do often write notes but not on this video. I don't specifically do anything special with breathing. I'm using a wireless lapel microphone.
You never fail to amaze us. Love the videos you're putting out for us. Keep it up Richard like always! I can see your channel and videos have grown over the months.🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼👍🏼 Remeber us when you grow!😂
Thank you very much Arhan. I really do appreciate your support my friend.
Awesome video Richard. I thought I'd get one or 2 tips from this video. Turns out every answer seemed to give me something. Thank so much for your content. Wishing you all the best in 2021.
Thank you very much for watching Simon. I'm glad you got something out of the video. All the very best to you for 2021.
thanks Richard. All the best for the new year. Really got a lot from the Q & A.
Thanks so much for watching Greg. All the very best to you also for 2021.
Happy New Year Richard. Loved watching and learning
in 2020 and look forward to 2021.
Thanks so much Russell. I'm really pleased you enjoy the videos. All the best for 2021.
Happy Healthy New Yeari love my 20mm 1.8 on my D750.
Thanks so much Robert. Yes I love the Nikon 20mm f1.8 lenses . .best I've used.
All the best in the New Year Richard and looking forward to future editions. I would "ditto" that I'd be very interested seeing your approach in editing panorama's done with different F-stops for the forground/background. Maybe include stacking if time allows. Also, I can't help but wonder if a 50mm panaramo would help bring out more detail for us people living in the Northern Hemesphere? Basically doing a 20mm pano equivelent with a 50mm lens. I know you did a video with the different lenses, which suggests there may be an advantage to going this route. Could be something to discuss in the future pano video.
Thanks a lot for watching Rob. Yes I have done a few images with different focal length lenses and love using the 35 and 50's whenever I can. I'll certainly feature these more this year.
Good Morning Richard, happy new year of Nightscapes!!!
Thanks very much Dave, all the best to you as well.
Happy New Year Richard,
Good questions, good answers.
looking forward for another year of great australian nightscapes.
Greeting Steffen
P.S. ans finally the the rum ball mystery is lifted :-)
Haha, well the Rum Ball question was my ffavourite . .thanks so much for your ongoing support Steffen.
Great video and great answers. Really admire how humble ypu are admitting not to be the expert, but nevertheless your work is out of this world. Keep safe Mr Richard.
As always I appreciate your comments Milorad.
Happy New Year Richard.
A great start to the New Year, I really enjoyed the video. The box brownie was interesting, how many MBs did it have ? :-) And I nearly died when I saw that spider, it looked enormous!
I look forward to further episodes, particularly on tracking and panoramas.
Take care
Thanks a lot David. Yes the old box brownie was a legendary camera ..!!! Haha, yes the spider did get a lot of interest.
Really enjoyed this video mate. Hope you have a great 2021. Looking forward to seeing the new content coming up.
Thanks a lot Mick, all the very best to you in 2021 mate.
Good morning Richard, welcome to 2021.
Thanks a lot Allan, all the best to you also for the new year. Lots of adventures up your sleeve I'm sure.
Oh I hope so Richard.
Hi Richard. You're by far my favorite teacher in the nightscape arena. Your enthusiasm inspires me to get out there as often as I can.
You mentioned using orange gels on your torch when light painting. Do you favor one particular density of gel such as full, 1/2 or 1/4 CTO?
Thanks again.
Thanks a lot for your kind words Kevin. Yes I generally use 1/2 cto gels for my general light painting. Sometimes I'll attach a full cto gel to a light . .often inside a building to warm up the scene a little. See this video at 4:08 ruclips.net/video/9FkVydUtVCY/видео.html
Happy New Year Richard and thank you for yet another video full of inspiring ideas and great advice. In my situation I dont have the option to afford the great new gear you usually use but ive been very happy with the results from my (very) old Sony mirrorless!
Thanks very much for watching Stephen, I hope you also have a wonderful 2021.
A very happy new year to you Richard. I watch all your videos, also my Mum does too :) keep up the great work!
Thanks a lot Martin, and thank your mum as well. I hope you both have a wonderful 2021.
Great Q and A Richard - Thankyou. Have you ever considered doing a live broadcast - Q&A or otherwise? Cheers
Thanks a lot Tony. I have thought about it but the time differences all around the world make it difficult. Here in Australia we are so far ahead of everyone I'd find myself talking to myself . .as well as a few Aussie mates ...!!!
Great video Richard as always. With the problem with your computer fan being noisy...I bought a HP Spectre and had the same problem. I fixed it by going to the start up menu an turning off what I thought I didn't need to run on startup. This fixed it and the computer is going great. Might be worth a computer geek checking out for you? See you In April all covid things going well!!!
Thanks a lot Kim. I think it's because when I'm doing editing the computer has to work a lot harder. The fan isn't always on but I think that's just how they are. I know I can turn off some of the heat management system but then I'd be worried about the computer running too hot. Hopefully April will be good.
Happy New Year Richard, hoping this year brings us both many opportunities to get out under the night sky. I have been following the channel for a couple of years now but have not had the confidence yet to produce my own images.
Hey Chris, thanks so much for your support. I reckon you could get out there in 2021 and just give it a go .. you have nothing to lose but as whole lot to gain. I'm always happy to help if you need it.
Richard that was so interesting ,concerning coming across people at night that bothered me when i did solo wild camping and then astro photography but the more you do these things you come to a conclusion that its all in your mind and now i never think about that because im so focussed on photography that fear at night doesnt even come into my thinking and i always go alone at night ,this might help other photographers feeling like this but the more you do something the better you feel .Feel the fear but do it anyway.well happy new year and 4 months to go and ill be back out under the stars.
Thanks very much for watching Phill. Yes it's just one of those things that people have to get used to .. and then realise that there is never anyone else out there in the dark.
Sometimes I get a bit creeped out on my own, but once I start shooting, I get carried away and forget my fear
HAPPY NEW YEAR MY FRIEND
Great info Richard
Thanks a lot Jeff, really appreciate you tuning in.
Go and get yourself a beer sport I think you deserve it excellent Q&A really enjoy it trying to get my head round wait to start with this kind of photography. I am fortunate enough to live in the UK in a place called Creek Abbey and I have an old abbey ruins at the bottom of the garden so I have the subject just haven’t got any idea where to start thank you for your time
Thanks a lot for watching Andy, really appreciate your kind comments.
Another great video! Happy New Year Richard :-)
Thanks heaps for watching Zeppy, I really do appreciate that.
What a way to start the New Year and many thanks. Let's hope for Happy Star trails for this year! BTW I was going to ask earlier but why do you recommend LENR to be turned off...just wondering
Thanks so much John, really appreciate you watching. The vast majority of the shots I take are multiple exposures .. that is I take many images one after the other to stack or blend later in the post processing. Also I take a lot of panoramas. So when doing this i need to take these images as quickly and close together as possible. When you enable long exposure noise reduction in camera, it takes another long exposure of exactly the same duration immediately after each shot .. this is to help reduce the noise of the image. The problem here is that if my shutter speed is 20 seconds for example, then I have to wait an extra 20 seconds for this process to happen .. therefore delaying my sequence of shots. The bottom line is . .it takes too much time and with my camera and lens setup I get great results without it.
for the best results its best to use both tracking and stacking in conjunction. usually from 40-50 dark sky 3-5 minute exposures for sky tracked are ideal for good Signal to noise ratio.
Yes no doubt about that for sure. A lot of people will struggle to use a simple tracker and get those exposure times for that long .. and therein lies the challenge for us all.
Happy new year Richard, to you and your family, thanks for all your hard work. Is long exposure foreground better for big areas where light painting would be tricky or annoy other photograhers?
Thanks so much for watching again Suzanne. Yes long exposure foregrounds are ideal for expansive landscapes or where there may be other photographers around.
Great content as always! Hoping to get down under someday to see that Milky Way core.
Thanks a lot Jeff, yes it's awesome down here when the milky way is shining bright.
i learned so much, as always with you, thanks
Thank you so much for watching Wendy, really appreciated.
Happy New Year Richard very informative video as usual, one question that wasn't asked is how do you track the Milky Way core from day to day to know when and where it will appear in the night sky? Cheers Eric
Thanks a lot for watching Eric. I did include this topic in a previous video. See here: ruclips.net/video/CTlD3pSl1AA/видео.html
Great video Richard. Happy new year.
Happy new year to you as well Chris, thanks heaps for watching.
Great Q&A! At the beginning, you are displaying some gorgeous photos, I especially love that seascape at 3:11. Do you remember what video is it (if there's a video for that image)? To add a bit to the discussion of that 2nd question, I'm interested in your experience: at the moment, I also only do stacked images when doing nightscape images. I have a star tracker that I also want to try but I'm wondering if pushing the exposure time is not becoming problematic, as it increases massively, I think, the risk to have a plane/satellite/meteor trail in the frame. What's your experience so far? There must be some satellites even above Australia, right? :) (actually, I think you might also have less such annoyance than North America or Europe).
At 16:05, you are saying that Nikon is ISO invariant, but I think you are incorrect. Some models are (were?), like your D750, but from the data I can lookup on photonstophoto website, the Z6 is not. You have a switch at ISO 800 (here's the link to see by yourself, select the camera on the right: www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/RN_e.htm). I guess you don't notice it in practice because you are always above ISO 800.
For fun, looking at your first camera (what a camera!), and your experiment to build a tracker back when you were a kid, did you see a recent video from Nebula Photos where he actually build a home-made star tracker? worth seeing (ruclips.net/video/P_qqLA0WKJg/видео.html).
And, as always, thanks for sharing your experience and your great photos. Always love watching your channel.
Thanks again for your comments Flexable. That seascape image is featured in this video where I'm talking about star trackers. ruclips.net/video/6ZJxZx83_5o/видео.html I did see that videos from Nebula Photos. Again I appreciate you watching.
Great first 2021 video ,maybe you should be more Q&A sessions, again I've walked away with a education
Well I'm really pleased to hear that Phillip, thanks again for your continued support.
Happy new year, Richard.
Happy new year to you my friend.
Richard hi love the tuition very clear and to the point, I have one question about lightroom, in the develop module in the basic menu how do you scroll through the basic editing options without using the bar along the side, this is a very simple function but I cant seem to find the option.
thanks Richard
Hey Shane. All of the tabs have a little sideways arrow which expand down when you click on it. I just use my mouse wheel to scroll down the various menu options. It's effectively the same as rolling the side bar down. Is that helpful ..???
Richard!!! That spider 👀👀👀 I'd be out of there like a shot!! Great video. I'm working on some night scapes next week , as I unexpectedly have a couple of weeks off work, so Ill be around Bendigo next week...tried to get into Rostrata but it's booked out!! We should catch up...
Thanks a lot Carmel. I didn't actually know the spider was there at the time .. but he was only a huntsman ..!!! I'll see how I go . .I'm going to be away for a bit as well in the next weeks.
@@nightscapeimages.richard are you doing another Q &A ?? I have a question 😂
@@carmelthomson9917 Not in the short term Carmel but I'm happy to try and answer it anyway.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Richard, I'm having a lot of trouble with printing...I have calibrated my monitor etc, but whenever I get a photo printed, it never looks as it should, ie, what I see on my screen..Not so much the colour tint (although that is a bit off).but more so the exposure or contrast. I don't print at home but I'm finding difficult to find a consistent printing company
@@carmelthomson9917 This is a very common problem that lots of people face when printing night photography images. I always brighten up my images before printing them. The computer monitor is backlit and therefore gives the images more dynamics which can make us think they are brighter than what they are in print. Also make sure you capture images in SRGB format in camera and that you edit and export in that format also in Lightroom/Photoshop. I've noticed a difference for the better when using that colour space. Also these low light and high iso images will always be difficult to print as the blacks often don't come out as pure black but rather a muddy grey. This is partly because of the lesser dynamic range used because of setting our iso so high and partly because printers in general struggle with printing blacks. I've had better results with gloss paper in this regard. As you probably already know, nightscape images are the hardest to take and the hardest to edit . .so it sort of makes sense that they are the hardest to print. And finally the printer makes a difference. You'll notice that even with small prints from Harvey Norman or K/Mart . .all prints and printers are not equal. You need to try a few printing houses and see if you can get a better result. Hope that's a little helpful.
Well done Richard, another informative video.
I shoot Canon, the 7D MKII, and 5D MKII.
I cannot find Canon lens at 20mm f1.8.
Sigma has one close but would like to hear your comments on this issue as the input I am getting is that Canon does not have the resolution to capture really good night sky images. What are your thoughts on this ?
Thanks a lot Charles. Canon don't make a 20mm f1.8. The only options are Sigma 20mm f1.4 or Samyang 20mm f1.8. There will be some coma on the Sigma but I know quite a few people who use that lens and love it. I've not had much to do with the Samyang 20mm f1.8 but I'd be wary of their quality control. The Canon cameras are just as good as any other brand for shooting nightscapes .. just don't under-expose them too much. They don't recover shadow details as well as some others. The later model Canons are brilliant though .. especially the mirrorless models.
Forgot to ask you !... richard...do you use a color calibrator for your computer to get the right colors?. Happy new year
Thanks a lot Pablo. No I don't color calibrate my monitor . .I just use a good quality unit and go by my eye. I've not had any issues up til now.
Good questions guys. Happy New Year everyone.
Thanks a lot for watching Tony, hope you have a great year as well.
If you go for a Laptop as Workstation, I would recommend the Dell Precision 7750, a great Laptop, 17" display and plenty options for konfiguration. But I don't know anything about the availability in your region.
Thanks a lot Michael. I'm doing ok with what I have but I do wonder sometimes about it's longevity.
That was excellent and explains a lot of questions that I had in mind. Regarding wide lenses, I have two Loawa 15mm lenses, the original is heavy with lots of distortions and vignetting plus macro but the other newer version, no macro but nil distortion if you would like to check it out. Since then they have bought other primes 60mm and others in the same line with nil distortions. Thanks enjoyed this video as usual and hope you will have a great 2021. Cheers
Thanks very much for watching Victor. You must be reading my mind. I have just placed an order for a Loawa 15mm f2 Nikon Z mount. I've been testing the new Nikon Z14-24 f2.8S and it's a good lens but way too expensive for me.
@@nightscapeimages.richard you must be getting an updated or new version as mine is a Sony a7r2 fit and dates back to 2017 where I used it in OZ on our first visit there. Look forward to you testing it. Thanks.
@@victorcarmelo8606 Thanks Victor, I'm keen to test it also.
Awesome video Richard !
Thanks a lot Renny, appreciate you watching.
Ahh! Found your Q&A Richard. I'm reviewing lots about portable power banks but alot of misleading info out there. Can you recommend one please ?
Very true Arnie. I found these recently. www.ebay.com.au/itm/500000mAh-Ultra-thin-External-Power-Bank-2-USB-Battery-Charger-For-Mobile-Phone/333877369745?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=542964885493&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
regarding the lens distortion at panoramas, there is one factor which reduces the problems. Perspective distortion. The center of spin of your panorama should be in the lens not in the camera body. There is a procedure to check if it has been reduced
Yes you're talking about the nodal point of the lens. It is something that is important . .especially with close objects in the foreground. What I'm talking about is wide angle lens distortion . .where the edges of the frame are not as straight as a longer focal length lens. Appreciate you watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I got your point. I was adding other distortion source. The features of different mapping transformation of the software used also allows better results. Microsoft has a free software with lots if them. Image Composite
Great content 👍🏻
Shooting star at 17:04
Thanks a lot for watching. Yes that's a shooting star and it's all explained in my last video about the Geminids meteor shower.
Hi. First, sad that I didnt ask it before. Do you have courage to show us your first pictures? The reason is simple. Many of us go out for the first time and are disappointed later what we get. Little 10 minut video😉? You are the best. Fan from Estonia (place where you never see milkyway core)!
Thanks a lot for watching jutlustajax. I have quite a lot of videos which show my post processing. In these you will see the images before I do any editing and then the final product. I appreciate you following my work. All the best for 2021.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I mean pictures, when you started with nightscape pictures. Your first pictures, if you still have them? I really like to see them. Some failures, your first big success. First picture, where you are really happy, where you get IT.
@@jutlustajax Oh, ok . .yes that's a good idea. I'll do a video on that sometime moving forward.
thanks R !
Great job. I learned a lot!
Thanks very much for watching Luke
Well done!
Thanks so much for watching Gary
Hi Richard, first of all thank you so much for the influence you are making for new photographers.
I tried astro with 20mm f/1.8 nikkor lens on full frame body in class 2 and 3 light polluted area but everytime I get either nothing with 15sec exposure @ 2500 ISO and f/2.8 or getting white image with 20sec exposure @ 6400 ISO and f/2.8.
Am I doing anything wrong here? Is there any setting to be changed in camera?
My second question is whether I need to do focus calibration of my 20mm f/1.8 lens as I dont get sharp photos even after focusing properly on tripod using remote shutter
Thanks for watching the channel Shutter Snaps. That's strange behaviour. What camera body are you using ..?? When you say you get nothing . .is there anything showing at all on the screen or is it just black ..?? Is the camera working fine in daytime shooting ..?? Focusing on stars is difficult . .it requires lots of practice. Make sure the auto focus is off completely.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I am using D850. Even in daytime, I don't get sharp Image. Is there any problem with sensor?
@@pixelpatch1900 I have never seen a camera with a faulty sensor. In the daytime do you use auto focus .. if so does that work ..??? It is possible that you may have a fault in the lens. Have you tried other lenses ..??
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yes, I use single point autofocus during day time. I checked wth 50mm also but that too having same issue
@@pixelpatch1900 I'm sorry but I've never seen anything like this. The D850 is a rock solid camera. I would suggest taking it into a camera repair shop for evaluation.
Have you ever considered to take deep sky images? I mean with a telescope or a longer focal length lens?
Well it's a bit of a long and winding rabbit hole .. very expensive and time consuming. I like the images but I do prefer shooting with a landscape foreground.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thank you for the reply Richard!
Yep I brought a Samyang Ultra Wide lens when I first started !I have issues when using it such as capturing the glow of the Red Led on Canon cameras in the foreground on the right hand corner among other issues on a Full Frame camera I have since Bought a 20mm ! In Regards to Leigh Kasey-Cameron I would lean towards doing longer Exposures at lower ISO's for minutes at a time and stacking them with some low level lighting to give best Results! And check out Lincoln Harrison for more Information on the Colored Star trails he has a tutorial on his site costs $100 and you receive four Video files of over an Hour each so Drink plenty of Coffee as the coloured star trails is a lot of work....
Thanks again for watching John. I think everyone starts with the Samyang 14 and there are some good copies out there for sure.
С Новым Годом Ричард !!!
Thank you so much my friend. All the best in 2021 for you also.
Cheers Richard 👌
Thanks for watching Michelle
Always try and watch your videos 😀👏
@@michellediggins1175 And I appreciate that very much Michelle
Hi richard, a samyang 24mm 1.4 has come up for sale at a good price..would you recommend it and would it be ok for a crop sensor body?
Hey Darren. I had one of those lenses and eventually sold it . .I could never get it sharp. Others love it however. On a crop sensor it's going to be about 32mm focal length which is getting a bit long. You may be better off going for the Samyang 16mm f2 if you are going to stick with the crop sensor body. Not sure that's helpful or not.
@@nightscapeimages.richard very helpful, ive been watching other reviews on the lack of sharpness..so youve confirmed that. My current wide angle is the tamron 10-24mm, not sharp either.
Thanks for the reply. Love what you do.
@@daztography1 All good Darren. I really like the Tokina 14-20 f2 for crop sensor cameras. A bit more expensive though.
Excellent video... Can you please reply with link to HBF Films. RUclips search comes up with Rap music...
Thanks a lot for watching John. Yes I see that now. Here's the link: ruclips.net/user/HBFilmsvideos
Thanks, way better than HBF Film channel (crap Rap) Ppl, its hbfilm channel
Awesome video mate
Thanks a lot Brad. I hope you have an awesome 2021 mate.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks mate we had a quiet night. Hope you had a good night as well.
@@bradtuckerman388 Thanks again Brad
I would like to invest in a printer. Any advice or recommendations??
I don't actually do any photo printing from home so I can't really give you any advice. Sorry.
17:02 - Asteroid?
That's a meteor .. yes it was one of the one's I captured without even knowing it in my last video.
Hello,
I am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for remote control intervalometers. I want to be able to set up the camera and walk away to lightpaint, (50-100 meters) and then press start on the intervalometer.
Thanks.
Thanks for watching. You can get a simple wireless shutter release to do what you want. I use and recommend the Yongnuo rf603ii. It's simple and rugged. If you need this device to also be an intervalometer then that's a different thing. I tend to prefer the simple cheap wired versions of intervalometer because typically you're always very close to the camera and they are easy to use and reliable. I've seen many people have connection issues with wireless intervalometers. Yongnuo remote shutter release: www.amazon.com.au/YONGNUO-RF-603-Wireless-Trigger-generation/dp/B00HRSW3TE
@@nightscapeimages.richard No worries. I've been subscribed since this time last year...ish. This channel was a great help during lockdown. Had the time to learn a new side of Photography, (I'm just a beginner with all sides of photograph.)
I have a wired intervalometer also. There's just a few shots I've planned that being remote would be handier.
If you were light painting a large structure 50-100 meters away, say like a bridge, large tree or rock out crop? What type of torch would you use?
I have a LED 1200 Lumens torch (can change to 300 Lumens) with 40mm front face... It's bright but is a bigger faced torch with a wider beam, better? (less painting to do on any given surface?)
A wider "paint" brush... so to speak?
@@TheOne-er7nk I still use a pretty standard torch. The LED Lenser P7 series. I do tend to zoom the torch a bit to "Throw" the light further depending on distance but that does make the light painting process more difficult to get consistency. You may well be fine using the light you have. All you can do is experiment. With large structures there are always compromises. I'll be keen to see how you go.
@@nightscapeimages.richard No problem, I will let you all know how things turn out.
Thanks.
Agree that 14-24mm Nikon is just too big, too heavy, and too wide especially at 14mm which seems to push the centre of the image away from you.
Yes I tend to agree with you Mr Dev. Thanks a lot for watching.