Fantastic video! I love the documentation of the build. Something I can rewatch whenever. All the little intricacies are wild, so happy I had you do the work - couldn't have turned out better. Cant wait for the next episode!
Awesome job, looks super clean, thanks for the honest assessment of the Heidts kit, You and Jim work very well together. I’ve got a’57 , some great information, thanks.
Nice work. Always lots of easter eggs to navigate around. I've done two of these conversions. A '41 Int'l PU with a Fatman's kit and a '48 F1 with a kit from your Canadian neighbors Welder Series. Both involved plenty of figure it out on your own. Thanks for the video.
I used street rod engineering for my m2 in my 55 chevy. The cross member had a “v” notch which located the rack and pinion lower and didn’t require a c notch in the frame and also provided a lot of clearance for the engine and balancer. I also used 1/4” plates pulled over with a c clamp as you did. I purchased motor mounts that were similar to what you made, had to be trimmed to fit tho and mounted nearly the same way you did. Those are some nice welds, very professionally done.
Great work!!! Gonna buy a 57 soon and I'm thinking of going this route. If you were to clip it, which one would you choose? Nova/camaro, s10, or g body??? Thanks
I only have experience with a Camaro clip so I can’t really say on the other. The Camaro clip was fine. These Mustang 2 styled front ends like I did in Andrew’s truck are way less labor though.
Fantastic video Lee, i love the stuff you show on your videos and the way you explain everything. I plan on building a late 30s to early 50s traditional kustom with MII front end, rear C notch with 4 link axle and bags all arround as next project, i need to finish my actual one but i started to save some drivetrain parts before having any car, car guys disease i supose haha. BTW i got my roadster shirt for my birthday last week, nice suprise from my girlfriend, thank you guys and keep on with the channel. Cheers from BCN Spain!
Good episode. I wonder if the differences are because their Canadian trucks so they ate slightly wider just because of tooling differences from plant to plat?
we just put the same kit in our truck and kit it perfect with no slack in kit ,, after watching your video ,instructions say to leave front cross member in when installing kit ,,step # 2 , i dont think i would of removed front cross member until after kit was installed
I did this exact same kit on a 55 Chevy pickup a few months ago, left the original crossmember in place and had the exact same issue with it not being too narrow.
That kit from Heidts for this period of truck --- you have now done two ---- one would think --- by now --- that someone got a hold of them and they got these kits correct ----- I would imagine --- never bought one --- that these kits are not cheap --- and one should not have to grind - cut - and rework their pieces to make it fit ------ Maybe that other company you mentioned has a better product. ------- You mentioned towards the end --- IT IS -- so much better to get the work done --- BEFORE --- you put the sheet metal back on ----- Here is a thought from me ---- Have you done a -- Tilt Front End / Flip --- on a Truck --- whichever way you want to say it. Maybe this customer / friend would like to do one ------If he doesn't --- do you think you might do one? ----- I only ask because -- I'm getting older and climbing up inside the engine compartment to sit and do the work --- is getting old ---- I have what they call a Square Body -- '77 Chevy --------- Thank You for telling us ---ALL THE DETAILS --- in doing that front suspension --- I for one really appreciate going into every step ----------- Thanks Again ------------- Thanks for the Sewing Tips from the '59 Ford ---- I did get a sewing machine ----- Rodney
No I’ve never done a tilt front end before. They were pretty popular in the 80’s, but to be honest I’ve never seen one that looked good or fit well where the fender cut happens.
We have installed these before and YOU BETTER CHECK for bump stear those are universal kits make sure the rack is not too low we had to raise ours to get rid of the bump stear😢😢😢
We put together a 57 chevy trk with a Plymouth Volare front sub frame Sheet metal was easy to install Because sub frame intsalled on bottom of oem frame that said 55 chevy trk putting in a 72 nova sub frame is thier any help in installing sheet metal on this Just need some ideas to complete This project Thanks For every action thier is a reaction
Hey, i just found your channel and I'm 20 minutes into this video. I've heard so many horror stories about Heits in the past few years that i decided on my 58 chevy truck i would do a Flat Out Engineering C4 corvette IFS (and IRS). The assembly was pretty much the same as a Mustang 2 (Heits) at least at the 20 minute mark, but the fitment was PERFECT, and i don't have Ford parts. Instead, off the shelf Corvette components
If you were to do the Flat Out C4 front only, you would need the corvette upper and lower control arms, the spindles and the steering rack. Then brakes and such. I found a guy who cut the whole front and rear suspensions out of a donor car, got em for like $700. The way i see it, that's half the price of a good aftermarket rear end. Then the parts from Flat Out were another $1200 iirc, and they arrived to my house in less than a month
@LGKustoms if you get the early c4 posts you can still run 15s. And you'll have aluminum control arms, hub assemblies instead of spindles, ABS if you really want, and the Flat Out has mounts for coilovers so you get rid of the c3-c4-c5 transverse leaf spring suspension. Win win win win
Thank you for the great videos. Im building a 57 and am having trouble getting headers to fit with a small block. Can you tell me what header you are using? I would really appreciate the information. Thank You
A months later, I'd like to see how those motor mounts have held up? They looked suspect to me , but I don't know nothing. With gravity and load distribution, I always thought they should come from straight under the motor not from the side. I just see the truck hitting a bad pothole which are very common these days (you know tax dollars don't fix roads anymore apparently) and breaking them motor mounts right off.
It’s been 7 months and they’re holding up just fine. It’s a very common motor mount design. Look up Trans Dapt 4511 engine mounts for example. They’re not just straight out, they have two gussets on each side triangulating everything. Not to mention, it’s all 3/16” plate.
Great videos! Hey I just finished welding in my heidts crossmember in my 45 chev. Truck frame is still sitting on jack stands with a slight 1.5 degree rake. I’d like to mount my engine/tranny in place and weld in my engine mounts while cab is still in place but I’m not sure if I should keep frame at this slight rake on jack stands before setting engine at 3 degrees or level frame out at the front frame rails ? I don’t have front suspension assembled and don’t have my new rear diff or rear suspension installed yet so not sure where my final rake or ride height will be
The 3° angle means nothing. As soon as you drive down a hill, or up a hill, you’re not at 3° anymore are you? All that matters is your engine and rearend are both mounted on the same plane. I’ve mounted engines at 8° before because that was the only way it would fit. Mounted the rear end at 8° and it was fine. Just put your engine where it fits best, and when the time comes to mount your rearend, just make sure it’s on the same angle.
@@LGKustoms right on thx for info ! Ya I got it sitting good , good distributer clearance , bottom of oil pan is sitting level with bottom of crossmember , rack has lots clearance , t5 tranny to floor has clearance . Call it home . I’ll degree pinion when I get to rear end install . Thx !
OEM rubber mounts on the block and the mounts are made from 3/16 plate with two triangular gussets on each mount. Maybe to some that’s wimpy? For a street truck with a mild small block, they’re plenty strong enough and I’d bet that rubber isolator will tear apart well before the mount breaks.
Instead of using c-clamps to pull the boxing plate to the frame why didn't you just mark the plates and bend them to fit then weld them in? By the way, very nice welds.
Great video and nice work ! I was just about to order a HEidts mustang ii kit for my 46 chev pick up. I might have to look at a TCI kit or speedway kit if they fit like that or might just be that gen truck that they fit crappy on. What size welder are you using for the crossmember/frame ? I use my miller 140 mig for alot of thinner sheet metal and have built some hitches etc thicker wall but not sure if I should attempt this crossmember work with that machine . I have a miller synchrowave 250 tig but takes so much longer using tig. Cheers from Alberta
I welded this using 135amps and got nice penetration. Your 140 amp should be okay. Try and see how it goes, if you’re not happy with it, switch to the TIG.
Hi Sergio. On average it’s around $8500 to install a kit like this. That’s you driving the truck in all stock, and driving it out with the new suspension installed, painted/powder coated, power steering and disc brakes.
Great video again! Seeing all the steering wheels on your Shop wall i wonder if you have or know anybody that has a 49 to 53 chevy steering wheel he wants to part with. I need one to get my car on the road again. I fitted a grant wheel some 40 years ago and lost the original one. Car was in storage for the last 30 years now authorities wont let me drive it with the aftermarket steering wheel. Thanks for any help in advance. By the way i am in Germany.
Good morning! Thank you for teaching how to modify a chevy suspension, excellent work, greetings from Argentina....
Thanks!
Good craftsman ,well explained,thanks .❤
Still trying to figure out why you don't have 50K subscribers. Well done video, thanks.
Haha thanks. Getting closer everyday
Great band name….. it’s also my cats name…. Captain James T Kirk
Thanks for sharing, always interesting!
Good job of working through this project 👍
Good stuff Lee... Keep the video camera rollin' for us. Love watchin' your projects
Thanks for the kind words
Fantastic video! I love the documentation of the build. Something I can rewatch whenever. All the little intricacies are wild, so happy I had you do the work - couldn't have turned out better. Cant wait for the next episode!
Thanks Andrew! It was a really fun build
See
Always nice work from under the roof of LGKustoms. Shout out to Jim for his part, especially getting that chassis painted.
Jim was a house painter for a few months. He knows how to handle a brush!
You make that look so easy awesome job well done. Thanks Lee 🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦🛠️👍👍
Thanks Badge. These Mustang 2 style front ends are pretty easy. Once the crossmember is welded in, it’s pretty much just bolt everything together.
I did my 57 Chevy convertible in 1975 all my Weling work
Another great upload. Thanks for explaining the procedure 👍👍👍👍
Excellent video Lee, lot's of good transferable information.
Thanks your info it's help with doing my 56 Chevy truck has saved some money
Great to hear!
We used to take out rivets by drilling the center then chisel off, save cutting the frame.
Great episode Lee.
Thanks!
Awesome job, looks super clean, thanks for the honest assessment of the Heidts kit, You and Jim work very well together. I’ve got a’57 , some great information, thanks.
Thanks!
Nice work. Always lots of easter eggs to navigate around. I've done two of these conversions. A '41 Int'l PU with a Fatman's kit and a '48 F1 with a kit from your Canadian neighbors Welder Series. Both involved plenty of figure it out on your own. Thanks for the video.
GREAT VIDEO.... THANK YOU FOR POSTING
Good work . Looks good .
Vamos con esa chevy, va quedando muy buena
Nicely done Lee , I installed a TCI kit in my 68 Cougar and it was a dream to install. The cost wasn’t out of line either, considering the upgrades.
Yea I’ve everything I’ve ever installed by TCI was well thought out and worked great.
I used street rod engineering for my m2 in my 55 chevy. The cross member had a “v” notch which located the rack and pinion lower and didn’t require a c notch in the frame and also provided a lot of clearance for the engine and balancer. I also used 1/4” plates pulled over with a c clamp as you did. I purchased motor mounts that were similar to what you made, had to be trimmed to fit tho and mounted nearly the same way you did. Those are some nice welds, very professionally done.
Cool. I’ve never heard of Street Rod Engineering
@@LGKustoms I believe they closed up shop after covid.
I went old school and put a camero sub frame in my 55. The job you did on the frontend looks good other than the old spring mounts were left on.
They make good jack stand points
Thank you gonna attempt a bolt on kit for my 54' Chevy
Great work!!! Gonna buy a 57 soon and I'm thinking of going this route. If you were to clip it, which one would you choose? Nova/camaro, s10, or g body???
Thanks
I only have experience with a Camaro clip so I can’t really say on the other.
The Camaro clip was fine. These Mustang 2 styled front ends like I did in Andrew’s truck are way less labor though.
Fantastic video Lee, i love the stuff you show on your videos and the way you explain everything. I plan on building a late 30s to early 50s traditional kustom with MII front end, rear C notch with 4 link axle and bags all arround as next project, i need to finish my actual one but i started to save some drivetrain parts before having any car, car guys disease i supose haha.
BTW i got my roadster shirt for my birthday last week, nice suprise from my girlfriend, thank you guys and keep on with the channel. Cheers from BCN Spain!
Rad!!! That was the first shirt I sent to Spain. Glad you enjoy it!
Nice job Lee
Thanks!
Great work as always! I noticed you have a Peanuts tattoo, I’m curious as to what it says.
Marty G
Good Grief!
I know that ppl in here use Heidts stuff too, but i didnt know that they are a kind of pain in the butt to assembly.
Well to be fair, most aftermarket or custom stuff takes some creative thought to make it work.
@@LGKustoms Yeah, i know that they never fit on anything. But i thought that the prizier parts could fit a slightly better, but i guess i was wrong.
Good episode.
I wonder if the differences are because their Canadian trucks so they ate slightly wider just because of tooling differences from plant to plat?
Maybe?
It was originally a Montana truck I was told, but not 100% sure.
Great video !!
Nice work….
Thank you
Still looking for a crew cab ford like yours have the 12 value cummins and a transmission
we just put the same kit in our truck and kit it perfect with no slack in kit ,, after watching your video ,instructions say to leave front cross member in when installing kit ,,step # 2 , i dont think i would of removed front cross member until after kit was installed
I did this exact same kit on a 55 Chevy pickup a few months ago, left the original crossmember in place and had the exact same issue with it not being too narrow.
That kit from Heidts for this period of truck --- you have now done two ---- one would think --- by now --- that someone got a hold of them and they got these kits correct ----- I would imagine --- never bought one --- that these kits are not cheap --- and one should not have to grind - cut - and rework their pieces to make it fit ------ Maybe that other company you mentioned has a better product. ------- You mentioned towards the end --- IT IS -- so much better to get the work done --- BEFORE --- you put the sheet metal back on ----- Here is a thought from me ---- Have you done a -- Tilt Front End / Flip --- on a Truck --- whichever way you want to say it. Maybe this customer / friend would like to do one ------If he doesn't --- do you think you might do one? ----- I only ask because -- I'm getting older and climbing up inside the engine compartment to sit and do the work --- is getting old ---- I have what they call a Square Body -- '77 Chevy --------- Thank You for telling us ---ALL THE DETAILS --- in doing that front suspension --- I for one really appreciate going into every step ----------- Thanks Again ------------- Thanks for the Sewing Tips from the '59 Ford ---- I did get a sewing machine ----- Rodney
No I’ve never done a tilt front end before. They were pretty popular in the 80’s, but to be honest I’ve never seen one that looked good or fit well where the fender cut happens.
We have installed these before and YOU BETTER CHECK for bump stear those are universal kits make sure the rack is not too low we had to raise ours to get rid of the bump stear😢😢😢
Haven’t had any bump steer issues
We put together a 57 chevy trk with a
Plymouth Volare front sub frame
Sheet metal was easy to install
Because sub frame intsalled on bottom of oem frame that said
55 chevy trk putting in a 72 nova sub frame is thier any help in installing sheet metal on this
Just need some ideas to complete
This project Thanks
For every action thier is a reaction
Hey, i just found your channel and I'm 20 minutes into this video. I've heard so many horror stories about Heits in the past few years that i decided on my 58 chevy truck i would do a Flat Out Engineering C4 corvette IFS (and IRS). The assembly was pretty much the same as a Mustang 2 (Heits) at least at the 20 minute mark, but the fitment was PERFECT, and i don't have Ford parts. Instead, off the shelf Corvette components
If you were to do the Flat Out C4 front only, you would need the corvette upper and lower control arms, the spindles and the steering rack. Then brakes and such. I found a guy who cut the whole front and rear suspensions out of a donor car, got em for like $700. The way i see it, that's half the price of a good aftermarket rear end. Then the parts from Flat Out were another $1200 iirc, and they arrived to my house in less than a month
Cool, thanks for sharing. I’ve never heard of Flat Out Engineering. Can you still run 15” rims with the corvette brakes?
@LGKustoms if you get the early c4 posts you can still run 15s. And you'll have aluminum control arms, hub assemblies instead of spindles, ABS if you really want, and the Flat Out has mounts for coilovers so you get rid of the c3-c4-c5 transverse leaf spring suspension. Win win win win
I will assume you did some kind of loose alinement if the rotors to get then all pointed straight?
I used my Eyecrometer
Thank you for the great videos. Im building a 57 and am having trouble getting headers to fit with a small block. Can you tell me what header you are using? I would really appreciate the information.
Thank You
Hey! Man, this question gets asked like once a week, and unfortunately I don’t know. Andrew who owns the truck, just dropped them off one day
What type of bearing did you use for the steering shaft? Part #plz.
Great question. I have no idea haha. This build was quite a while ago and I don’t remember unfortunately.
Nice job! Can please tell me where you got the front sway bar and a part # if you have it. Thanks
The sway bar is also from Heidts. Sorry, I don’t recall the part number. It was part of the front suspension kit.
A months later, I'd like to see how those motor mounts have held up? They looked suspect to me , but I don't know nothing. With gravity and load distribution, I always thought they should come from straight under the motor not from the side. I just see the truck hitting a bad pothole which are very common these days (you know tax dollars don't fix roads anymore apparently) and breaking them motor mounts right off.
It’s been 7 months and they’re holding up just fine. It’s a very common motor mount design. Look up Trans Dapt 4511 engine mounts for example.
They’re not just straight out, they have two gussets on each side triangulating everything. Not to mention, it’s all 3/16” plate.
should the steering shaft be collapsible for a front end collision ,
It could be if you wanted. They do make a collapsible version of this set up
Jerry can 😂
Hahaha
Five o’clock, finish time! Part timers🤔
Why would I work all evening after hours on customers projects when I have my own projects to do?
@@LGKustoms I thought they were all customers vehicles, only just seen your videos.
how many hours would you say this took your team? leaning on the safe side.
Great videos! Hey I just finished welding in my heidts crossmember in my 45 chev. Truck frame is still sitting on jack stands with a slight 1.5 degree rake. I’d like to mount my engine/tranny in place and weld in my engine mounts while cab is still in place but I’m not sure if I should keep frame at this slight rake on jack stands before setting engine at 3 degrees or level frame out at the front frame rails ? I don’t have front suspension assembled and don’t have my new rear diff or rear suspension installed yet so not sure where my final rake or ride height will be
The 3° angle means nothing. As soon as you drive down a hill, or up a hill, you’re not at 3° anymore are you?
All that matters is your engine and rearend are both mounted on the same plane.
I’ve mounted engines at 8° before because that was the only way it would fit. Mounted the rear end at 8° and it was fine.
Just put your engine where it fits best, and when the time comes to mount your rearend, just make sure it’s on the same angle.
@@LGKustoms right on thx for info ! Ya I got it sitting good , good distributer clearance , bottom of oil pan is sitting level with bottom of crossmember , rack has lots clearance , t5 tranny to floor has clearance . Call it home . I’ll degree pinion when I get to rear end install . Thx !
The engine mounts looks a bit wimpy. Are there rubber isolators on the block? I would not think a solid mounted engine is a good idea
OEM rubber mounts on the block and the mounts are made from 3/16 plate with two triangular gussets on each mount.
Maybe to some that’s wimpy? For a street truck with a mild small block, they’re plenty strong enough and I’d bet that rubber isolator will tear apart well before the mount breaks.
Out of curiosity what was the final bill? that was a lotta work!!
Good question, I don’t remember off the top of my head, I did this job quite a while ago
If you haven't sold the power steering stuff I would like to talk to you about it
Sorry, it sold long ago
Instead of using c-clamps to pull the boxing plate to the frame why didn't you just mark the plates and bend them to fit then weld them in?
By the way, very nice welds.
Sucking it in with C clamps is just faster. Especially when you can use the heat from the welds to make moving the metal even easier.
Great video and nice work ! I was just about to order a HEidts mustang ii kit for my 46 chev pick up. I might have to look at a TCI kit or speedway kit if they fit like that or might just be that gen truck that they fit crappy on. What size welder are you using for the crossmember/frame ? I use my miller 140 mig for alot of thinner sheet metal and have built some hitches etc thicker wall but not sure if I should attempt this crossmember work with that machine . I have a miller synchrowave 250 tig but takes so much longer using tig. Cheers from Alberta
I welded this using 135amps and got nice penetration. Your 140 amp should be okay. Try and see how it goes, if you’re not happy with it, switch to the TIG.
What headers did you run for shaft clearance
I’m not sure what headers they are. Andrew supplied them
What kind of headers are they and where can i get some?
Unfortunately I’m not sure, the owner Andrew supplied them.
Hi my name is Sergio and I would like to install a kit on my truck . What is your charge for something like this? Thank you Sergio
Hi Sergio. On average it’s around $8500 to install a kit like this. That’s you driving the truck in all stock, and driving it out with the new suspension installed, painted/powder coated, power steering and disc brakes.
Great video again! Seeing all the steering wheels on your Shop wall i wonder if you have or know anybody that has a 49 to 53 chevy steering wheel he wants to part with.
I need one to get my car on the road again. I fitted a grant wheel some 40 years ago and lost the original one. Car was in storage for the last 30 years now authorities wont let me drive it with the aftermarket steering wheel. Thanks for any help in advance. By the way i am in Germany.
Thanks! As for your steering wheel, reproduction wheels are available in the US. Unfortunately I don’t have a lead on a used one.
@@LGKustoms thank you.👍
Where did you order the steering u joints from?
Summit racing usually
Because every single one of them are up to 3/4 of an inch different
I had to put a ratchet strap around mine and pull it together about a half an inch
What's the going price
This truck isn’t for sale.
It's better to be able to say..." there it is" instead of "where is it?" ....
Great information
Annoying music
It’s only rock n roll, but I like it.
everytime you cut one you ruin one...