Exactly! The plastic parts will never hold up over time and are sure to flex from the start and begin deform deviating even further from the 3D prints. Still the effort is worth a thumbs up though the bronze filings all over the adjacent bearing caused me an eye twitch!
I just finished CNC'ing my BF20. My suggestion for anybody wanting to do the same is to go to Grabcad, there you'll find an unbelievably perfect, and dimensionally accurate 3D model of the mill by a bloke named Rob. You can make all of your parts based off that model and everything will fit. I made all of my parts and didn't physically measure a thing on the mill. It's a hell of a lot better than pulling the mill apart, measuring everything, then putting it all back together just to make your parts, then pulling it apart again to check the fit.
3:30 was this included in the original mill? The bearing in our mill is just some folded metal with some balls inside. Our bearing is made to fit its need but definitely not a quality build.
Yep that is what I did on my mill drill which is a bit bigger than that. You have to think about it and make some parts while the mill is assembled then you have to do it all by hand. Its amazing how accurate you can be by sanding flats on sandpaper on a flat surface and measuring after a few cuts. My advice to anyone thinking about doing this is buy a mill that has what you want. Don't make it or alter it. It takes way too much time to make it.
I converted my Optimum Bf16 five month ago with 3 x Nema34 closed loop steppers and i used Aluminium for x and y axis and steel for the z axis mounting .The motors have 12Nm which wouldnt be needed but a good mounting is even more important. I unterstand to little of plastic but the work you made is very good if the plastic is strong enough i cant say . I didnt change mine into linear rails as long as its precise enough the z axis tends to be a bit of a problem sometimes ,but until now the precision was as wanted. My next step will be building the 4./5. axis by myself out of steel and with two strong motors this winter.
The biggest issue I found with the 3d printed parts is that they don't hold bolt tension, they'll eventually loosen up over a few days, surprisingly the Y axis motor mount didn't de-laminate with the larger nema 24 motor hanging off of it after over a year, it's the one part I was expecting to fail within a short amount of time. I did only have about a 20-30% infill on the 3D printed parts so that wouldn't have helped with holding the bolt tension. I did have plans to make the plates out of aluminium flat bar but it was left for a few months before trying to mill the aluminium and by then alot of the threads were loose so I'd just decided to make the parts again from scratch. I have begun redoing the cnc conversion with aluminium and steel, just to find the time to finish off the last few pieces.
@@MrCcfly hi sorry saw your question right now ...where do you mean I use the files ...I use Mach3 which I bought quite cheap at eBay but for testing you can download a free version there you don't need Bf20 files ...and than if you have an object there are several different files from a CAD Programm ( Fusion 360 is free if you don't make money with it ) that can be transferred right into Mach3 or to change them if you like to a program like desktoproto 6.1 that make the milling wayes and send them to mach 3 ...it's three steps designing a CNC part than postdesign with making the milling ways and the file that Mach3 can read and at last send it to mach 3 and start.....there are programms that can make step one,two and three together like fusion 360 or there are programms for every step ...it sounds more complicated than it is ....download mach 3 (mach 4 is buggy) and Fusion 360 for free and you are good to go if you like it than buy Mach3 Lizenz because the free version only has 100 steps ...
@@wolfitirol8347 i mean files to mount steppers & that bit for y that goes under table ,but it is ok i upgraded to rf45 ,and still dont have clue how to upgrade her to cnc :)))
Super Umbau . Aber bei Min 4:29 sieht man an der Kugelrollspindel die blaue Kappe die muss weg und dort muss man einen Schmiedanschluss anbringen . Sonst frisst die Kugelrollspindel nach kurzer Zeit. Mfg.
VERY Impressive! Oh how I wish I'd have seen this 2 months ago...my conversion still giving me the blues :^( Great craftsmanship obviously from a true professional w/mechanical intellect. Please, keep em comin! Many Thnx
Column was hour-glassed (tight top/bottom, loose in center) voids in the casting ways, just overall bad fit and finish, if you're planning to do a conversion, going off mine, holes were drilled all other the place and on angles so I'd say hand drilled and tapped. I did purchase an earlier model so maybe things have improved a-lot since then.
Suprised me. I was expecting the original mill with the cnc added. The mill is $1800 in Australia, so adding a new spindle etc makes it quite an outlay.
the mill was 1200 euro for me the chineese router spindle is about 200 to 300 euro with the vfr , the original milling head is notorious for stripping the gears and burning the motor out , the chineese spindle is cheaper then a motor and beltdrive upgrade on the original head , its allso a chicken or the egg type of thing that you need a mill to make the parts for the upgrade
Hello great work would also like to rebuild my machine could you tell me the dimensions of the metal plate that comes on the spindle nut sorry for my bad english
Well, if that's what you want, then that's what you want, but you just traded a mill for a router. I would be a bit wary of using that spindle held by plastic implements printed on a cheap printer. I would be curious though how would your router do with cutting metals, especially steel. Good luck.
I had the same concerns on the Z axis mount, I've since replaced it with a welded steel mount. The high speed spindle isn't suited for milling steel but is more suited for aluminium. If the high speed spindle doesn't work out I do have a BT30 spindle + 1HP 3 phase motor that I plan to attach.
Stupefatto da quello che sta costruendo vorrei tanto che mi dicessi che motore sta montando alla fresa dove posso trovarlo te ne sarei grato ti seguirà tanto complimenti
Non ricordo il venditore, ma è solo un corpo quadrato da 1,5 kW economico di Aliexpress come questo www.aliexpress.com/item/32842702231.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.53cd2004qrS1EO&algo_pvid=a7f3f682-30ed-4c16-873a-3ee1ff8e44cc&algo_expid=a7f3f682-30ed-4c16-873a-3ee1ff8e44cc-16&btsid=e5136980-8b1c-48a1-b696-62efaad62531&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4,searchweb201603_55
few more questions on the prints , i allready found out youre using PLA plastic to print them - did you use 100% infill (made them as one solid piece) - do you use the same plans converted to g code to make the aluminium parts or do you have the cad files for them ? do you allso have files for endstop switchholders for the mill ? did you had to grind clearances in the cross slide parts for the ballnuts to fit or was the grinding on the ballnuts enough ? theres a good chance that im going to use the files to make the same parts and use those to machine the aluminium ones for the final conversion , think its a good way to check clearances and fitment issues of the drawings before spending a lot of money and time intoo (CNC) machining them in aluminium
1. 20-30% infill, 100% would take too long and it's only a temporary part. 2. If you are planning to machine them in aluminium, I'd redesign them to make them more suitable for machining in aluminium. 3. no endstop switch files as I don't have any on my mill. 4. there was no need to modify any of the mills cast surfaces, there was sufficient clearance to just machine the ballnuts.
thanks for the help , the last one was the most important for the hoss cnc conversion plans it was necessary to mill out clearance pockets in the middle part ruclips.net/video/CKFAclJ0tjo/видео.html could be the brand you have is slightly different to the grizzly i actually was planning to buy a second cross slide to be able to adapt and mill the pockets in them on the mill with the original cross slide that would still be together this answer saves me having to buy that 2nd cross slide
The optimum brand BF20 is different or well the one I purchased was, there was sufficient clearance for the ballnut and ballscrew. It's hard to see in the video but the cutout looks like it was designed to accept a 1605 ballnut, it's more a square shaped cutout whereas the grizzly is a slot/rectangle. If you're quick with the pause button you can see it at 3:00
I'd just purchased the plasma so wanted to cut something with it. The cut quality isn't that great and it makes a-lot of mess which is why I didn't use it more.
Clever conversion using 3d parts, but what kind of materials are you planing to mill in your machine? what kind of plastic are you using ? and it´s strong enough for metals? Greetings
I'm waiting on some electronics, endmills and collets to have a go at machining aluminium as I want to cut all the bearing plates out of aluminium, the plastic being machined is Delrin. It should machine brass/aluminium/plastics & wood but if you want to machine steel I'd be putting the stock mill head back on.
That's great, i'm tryiing to convert my milling machine to CNC, i want to machine steel, when i saw your conversiion i tough i could do the same using 3d printed parts, i will follow your work, awesome !!
Any issues with the steppers warping the plastic? I used 3d printed parts on my cnc but the steppers natural are hot when holding and the Pla/abs printed parts warp after a while. Resorted to putting fans on the mounts.
I've only had limited use so far (I've got a few projects I'm working on, an old lathe currently has my attention) The 3D printed parts were only ever intended to be temporary so I'll eventually be replacing the 3D printed parts with steel and aluminium.
Do you still use your router or replace it with this mill? I'm thinking about upgrading my c-beam router, since it's not sturdy enough to cut aluminium. But still can't decide between building a new router or converting a milling machine.
The one built with extrusion was parted out and mostly sold, I don't mind starting over again from scratch. Best to work out what you want to machine first and go from there, both have their advantages and disadvantages depending on what you want to machine. My main goal with the mill is to machine small aluminium parts ie. mostly under 100x200 in size, bearing blocks, spindle mounts ect.
Nema 24 430 oz-in/3.1N.m steppers on the X and Y axis, and a Nema 34 640 oz-in/4.5N.m stepper motor on the Z axis. The X and Y are a bit oversize as it's what I had on hand, going by what I found online, smaller nema 23 270 oz-in motors would have been more than enough. The z axis I thought at first was a bit on the small size but looking at a-lot of conversions the 640 oz-in seemed to be a common size motor for this size of mill, from what I've seen so far it's plenty powerful for the BF20 mill.
Thanks, its just a cheap chinese spindle. you can buy them from multiple sellers on aliexpress.com just search for 1.5KW spindle and a handful of sellers will pop up. A-lot of the listings indicate that they have 2 sets of angular contact bearings, as far as I can tell this is incorrect for all listings, the one I have appears to have one set of AC bearings at the front and a deep groove ball bearing on the rear, you don't see this unless you remove the shaft driven fan which is virtually useless and makes more noise than anything which is why I replaced it with a server fan. If you have the budget I'd seriously suggest looking at a Teknomotor brand spindle from damencnc.com in the Netherlands I previously had an 1.6KW ER25 Electrospindle and I had no complaints about it, they also sell a mounting block for the BF20 mills to attach a spindle its a little pricy but is one solid piece of aluminium, but price wise the setup would cost almost as much as a new mill which is why I went with the budget spindle which I already had on hand.
Depends what you want to make but if small aluminium/steel/plastic parts a mill may be more useful, or larger wood, plastic, possibly aluminium then a cnc router. The travel on these smaller mills can be a big limiting factor.
@CT Hello , right now i'm in the posistion to purchase between optimum BF20L and Sieg X2.7L (the table is same 700mm length), what do you suggest for me? do you have picture or video to compare sieg X2.7 vs optimum bf20L ? that sieg X2.7L z-axis column look big right or it just steel plate.
I'd strongly suggest the Optimum BF20L, the column is much stronger, a better finish and mounting holes for plates ect. are positioned correctly (x2.7 mounting holes were hand drilled I believe as I needed to map their location and some were on an angle, but I did have an early model of the X2.7) The column on the Sieg X2.7 is open on the front and back with a few small bridges tying the back of the column together (the cover is just sheet metal and doesn't add any strength to the column), I had issues tightening the z axis dovetail on the X2.7 as I believe the column was hour-glassed, ie. Z slide was loose in the middle and tight top and bottom, probably due to the open front and back and or issues with the machining. The belt drive is tempting but there are kits out there for converting the BF20L and although it'll be more expensive it's a much better way to go in my opinion.
Hi, it's a very early generic chinese 3d printer not sure on the name as it doesn't have one on the frame, they don't seem to make them anymore, it was one of those kits which you need to assemble completely, 3d printed frame parts, 200mm3 working area. ect.
Great video, lots of work. I guess you have all the footage still available - I would appreciate to see a real time, not time-compressed version. Possible?
They're an Australian seller so not sure if that'll be any help, it also looks like they're running low on stock, normally they'd have sizes in 50mm increments. stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/Ballscrew-5mm-pitch-/_i.html?_fsub=412643919&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
It's not free it was $149USD from memory, I've had it since 2008. I'll be switching over to UCCNC soon which is also not free but its really not too expensive. I've heard Linux CNC is free and works good but I haven't personally used it.
For software you'll need, CAD, CAM and CNC software. For CAM I use Vectric Cut 2D for now, for the hardware side you'll need stepper motors, stepper motor drivers, power supply, breakout board, and compatible computer with Parallel port which is probably the cheapest option.
Interesting how you used the plasma to cut the first U shape then used the grinder for the rest. I know how you feel. A plasma cutter is not the magic wand tool Iw as hoping for either :-(
Thanks, I was using Sketchup for CAD, Vectric Cut 2D for CAM, and Mach 3 for CNC its basic software but limited, I'm currently looking to move to a new CAD/CAM package and to a UCCNC ethernet controller and software for the CNC side.
well if you used PLA or pretty much any type of plastic it will deform overtime with prolonged pressure. You won't be accurate either and milling metals, just forget it. The plastic will deform and twist and will throw your measurements all over the place. It's cool, but not a practical material.
Spot on, found this out coming back to the machine a month later and finding everything loose, did try milling aluminium but it was pretty awful machining, spot drilling plates could work and then hand finish them but might as well avoid the days of 3d printing and make them by hand first up.
The 3D printed parts should only be used long enough to finish milling the aluminum parts replacements. So after dialing it in, machine your aluminum parts and replace. Very temporary.
It's something different, I do admit its not great. I have already remade a-lot of parts in aluminium and steel will provide an updated video one of these days.
Good enough to redo the parts in metal once the CNC is up and running. Sure, you have to disassemble it again and put it back together once you made the first metal parts, but that sure as hell beats having to buy a second mill.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm bafeled by your angle grinder skills and the fact that you use the grip and guard. Much respect
Now you should use that setup to make those 3d printed parts in aluminum
Exactly! The plastic parts will never hold up over time and are sure to flex from the start and begin deform deviating even further from the 3D prints. Still the effort is worth a thumbs up though the bronze filings all over the adjacent bearing caused me an eye twitch!
I just finished CNC'ing my BF20.
My suggestion for anybody wanting to do the same is to go to Grabcad, there you'll find an unbelievably perfect, and dimensionally accurate 3D model of the mill by a bloke named Rob.
You can make all of your parts based off that model and everything will fit. I made all of my parts and didn't physically measure a thing on the mill.
It's a hell of a lot better than pulling the mill apart, measuring everything, then putting it all back together just to make your parts, then pulling it apart again to check the fit.
I appreciate your creative use of material and tools! Nice work. - Nick
3:30 was this included in the original mill? The bearing in our mill is just some folded metal with some balls inside. Our bearing is made to fit its need but definitely not a quality build.
The stock mill comes with a set of thrust bearings.
Sztywność wrzeciona na plastikowej podstawi to najwyżej do dłubania w plastelinie, Ale pomysł i wykonanie SUPER
Yep that is what I did on my mill drill which is a bit bigger than that.
You have to think about it and make some parts while the mill is assembled then you have to do it all by hand.
Its amazing how accurate you can be by sanding flats on sandpaper on a flat surface and measuring after a few cuts.
My advice to anyone thinking about doing this is buy a mill that has what you want. Don't make it or alter it. It takes way too much time to make it.
I converted my Optimum Bf16 five month ago with 3 x Nema34 closed loop steppers and i used Aluminium for x and y axis and steel for the z axis mounting .The motors have 12Nm which wouldnt be needed but a good mounting is even more important.
I unterstand to little of plastic but the work you made is very good if the plastic is strong enough i cant say .
I didnt change mine into linear rails as long as its precise enough the z axis tends to be a bit of a problem sometimes ,but until now the precision was as wanted. My next step will be building the 4./5. axis by myself out of steel and with two strong motors this winter.
The biggest issue I found with the 3d printed parts is that they don't hold bolt tension, they'll eventually loosen up over a few days, surprisingly the Y axis motor mount didn't de-laminate with the larger nema 24 motor hanging off of it after over a year, it's the one part I was expecting to fail within a short amount of time. I did only have about a 20-30% infill on the 3D printed parts so that wouldn't have helped with holding the bolt tension.
I did have plans to make the plates out of aluminium flat bar but it was left for a few months before trying to mill the aluminium and by then alot of the threads were loose so I'd just decided to make the parts again from scratch.
I have begun redoing the cnc conversion with aluminium and steel, just to find the time to finish off the last few pieces.
hi do you use same files for bf16 like these for bf20 ? i have bf16 and want to mod to cnc but dont have clue how
@@MrCcfly hi sorry saw your question right now ...where do you mean I use the files ...I use Mach3 which I bought quite cheap at eBay but for testing you can download a free version there you don't need Bf20 files ...and than if you have an object there are several different files from a CAD Programm ( Fusion 360 is free if you don't make money with it ) that can be transferred right into Mach3 or to change them if you like to a program like desktoproto 6.1 that make the milling wayes and send them to mach 3 ...it's three steps designing a CNC part than postdesign with making the milling ways and the file that Mach3 can read and at last send it to mach 3 and start.....there are programms that can make step one,two and three together like fusion 360 or there are programms for every step ...it sounds more complicated than it is ....download mach 3 (mach 4 is buggy) and Fusion 360 for free and you are good to go if you like it than buy Mach3 Lizenz because the free version only has 100 steps ...
@@wolfitirol8347 i mean files to mount steppers & that bit for y that goes under table ,but it is ok i upgraded to rf45 ,and still dont have clue how to upgrade her to cnc :)))
Congratulation I made the same transform 😀
And I put turcite in all wedge of axis
Best regards 😊
Super Umbau . Aber bei Min 4:29 sieht man an der Kugelrollspindel die blaue Kappe die muss weg und dort muss man einen Schmiedanschluss anbringen . Sonst frisst die Kugelrollspindel nach kurzer Zeit. Mfg.
VERY Impressive! Oh how I wish I'd have seen this 2 months ago...my conversion still giving me the blues :^( Great craftsmanship obviously from a true professional w/mechanical intellect. Please, keep em comin! Many Thnx
Hi thanks for your video. Could you tel what was wrong with the X2.7 mill that you end up getting rid of it?
Column was hour-glassed (tight top/bottom, loose in center) voids in the casting ways, just overall bad fit and finish, if you're planning to do a conversion, going off mine, holes were drilled all other the place and on angles so I'd say hand drilled and tapped.
I did purchase an earlier model so maybe things have improved a-lot since then.
Good idea friend 👍
great mods!
Could you tel what band saw you used to cut aluminium? Thanks
Oh, Your website return a privacy policy. Can't access...
Thats very impressive!!
Practical Renaissance machines à bois 5axes
That other step motor plot twist was genius
@@sonwabile c c
extremely impressive ,the bad news about converting the mill is you don't have the mill to make parts on the fly
Suprised me. I was expecting the original mill with the cnc added. The mill is $1800 in Australia, so adding a new spindle etc makes it quite an outlay.
the mill was 1200 euro for me
the chineese router spindle is about 200 to 300 euro with the vfr , the original milling head is notorious for stripping the gears and burning the motor out , the chineese spindle is cheaper then a motor and beltdrive upgrade on the original head , its allso a chicken or the egg type of thing that you need a mill to make the parts for the upgrade
Haha ich habe es verstanden
Great Idea. Never considered printing them for functional use.
Excellent performance. Skillful hands!
Hello great work would also like to rebuild my machine could you tell me the dimensions of the metal plate that comes on the spindle nut sorry for my bad english
what materials can it mill?
awasome talented engineer
Hope your 1st project is to replace the 3D printed parts with aluminum ends cuz that's not going to last long at all!
You'd be surprised how much those parts can withstand torture. You obvious haven't ever seen good quality printed parts made out suitable materials
Well, if that's what you want, then that's what you want, but you just traded a mill for a router. I would be a bit wary of using that spindle held by plastic implements printed on a cheap printer. I would be curious though how would your router do with cutting metals, especially steel.
Good luck.
I had the same concerns on the Z axis mount, I've since replaced it with a welded steel mount. The high speed spindle isn't suited for milling steel but is more suited for aluminium.
If the high speed spindle doesn't work out I do have a BT30 spindle + 1HP 3 phase motor that I plan to attach.
Stupefatto da quello che sta costruendo vorrei tanto che mi dicessi che motore sta montando alla fresa dove posso trovarlo te ne sarei grato ti seguirà tanto complimenti
Non ricordo il venditore, ma è solo un corpo quadrato da 1,5 kW economico di Aliexpress come questo
www.aliexpress.com/item/32842702231.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.53cd2004qrS1EO&algo_pvid=a7f3f682-30ed-4c16-873a-3ee1ff8e44cc&algo_expid=a7f3f682-30ed-4c16-873a-3ee1ff8e44cc-16&btsid=e5136980-8b1c-48a1-b696-62efaad62531&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4,searchweb201603_55
A professional that inspires. Thank you for sharing
few more questions on the prints , i allready found out youre using PLA plastic to print them
- did you use 100% infill (made them as one solid piece)
- do you use the same plans converted to g code to make the aluminium parts or do you have the cad files for them ?
do you allso have files for endstop switchholders for the mill ?
did you had to grind clearances in the cross slide parts for the ballnuts to fit or was the grinding on the ballnuts enough ?
theres a good chance that im going to use the files to make the same parts and use those to machine the aluminium ones for the final conversion , think its a good way to check clearances and fitment issues of the drawings before spending a lot of money and time intoo (CNC) machining them in aluminium
1. 20-30% infill, 100% would take too long and it's only a temporary part.
2. If you are planning to machine them in aluminium, I'd redesign them to make them more suitable for machining in aluminium.
3. no endstop switch files as I don't have any on my mill.
4. there was no need to modify any of the mills cast surfaces, there was sufficient clearance to just machine the ballnuts.
thanks for the help , the last one was the most important
for the hoss cnc conversion plans it was necessary to mill out clearance pockets in the middle part ruclips.net/video/CKFAclJ0tjo/видео.html
could be the brand you have is slightly different to the grizzly
i actually was planning to buy a second cross slide to be able to adapt and mill the pockets in them on the mill with the original cross slide that would still be together
this answer saves me having to buy that 2nd cross slide
The optimum brand BF20 is different or well the one I purchased was, there was sufficient clearance for the ballnut and ballscrew. It's hard to see in the video but the cutout looks like it was designed to accept a 1605 ballnut, it's more a square shaped cutout whereas the grizzly is a slot/rectangle.
If you're quick with the pause button you can see it at 3:00
Actually 1:25 is a better picture.
nice job, just the bearing in the vice part of it kinda hurt ^^
Hi great job! I saw you use a plasma torch I think. Then you used the grinder to cut out pieces. Why use the grinder over the plasma cutter?
I'd just purchased the plasma so wanted to cut something with it. The cut quality isn't that great and it makes a-lot of mess which is why I didn't use it more.
Amazing, what bit you used at the end for engraving the logo!?
From memory it was a Solid Carbide 30 degree spiral V bit for engraving. Kyocera Tycom brand.
have tried 2 of the stl files and no bolt or bearing holes are are being printed, am using cura, drawings are all good
Very nice toy. Good luck cutting aluminum
what stepermotor use?
Clever conversion using 3d parts, but what kind of materials are you planing to mill in your machine? what kind of plastic are you using ? and it´s strong enough for metals? Greetings
I'm waiting on some electronics, endmills and collets to have a go at machining aluminium as I want to cut all the bearing plates out of aluminium, the plastic being machined is Delrin.
It should machine brass/aluminium/plastics & wood but if you want to machine steel I'd be putting the stock mill head back on.
That's great, i'm tryiing to convert my milling machine to CNC, i want to machine steel, when i saw your conversiion i tough i could do the same using 3d printed parts, i will follow your work, awesome !!
Any issues with the steppers warping the plastic? I used 3d printed parts on my cnc but the steppers natural are hot when holding and the Pla/abs printed parts warp after a while. Resorted to putting fans on the mounts.
I've only had limited use so far (I've got a few projects I'm working on, an old lathe currently has my attention)
The 3D printed parts were only ever intended to be temporary so I'll eventually be replacing the 3D printed parts with steel and aluminium.
Bearings housing is from plastic?its fany, but nice job
Do you still use your router or replace it with this mill?
I'm thinking about upgrading my c-beam router, since it's not sturdy enough to cut aluminium. But still can't decide between building a new router or converting a milling machine.
The one built with extrusion was parted out and mostly sold, I don't mind starting over again from scratch.
Best to work out what you want to machine first and go from there, both have their advantages and disadvantages depending on what you want to machine. My main goal with the mill is to machine small aluminium parts ie. mostly under 100x200 in size, bearing blocks, spindle mounts ect.
what is the black material drilled in the last ?? the one where the bearing was fitted ??
It's Delrin, generic names are POM or Acetal, its very nice to machine but a bit expensive.
Delrin is awesome! It's like machining the plastic version of brass. ;)
you wrote thanks for watching. We thank you for the video and for the great tip 😃. thank you !!!!!
What spec stepper motors did you use and do you find them powerful enough ?
Nema 24 430 oz-in/3.1N.m steppers on the X and Y axis, and a Nema 34 640 oz-in/4.5N.m stepper motor on the Z axis.
The X and Y are a bit oversize as it's what I had on hand, going by what I found online, smaller nema 23 270 oz-in motors would have been more than enough.
The z axis I thought at first was a bit on the small size but looking at a-lot of conversions the 640 oz-in seemed to be a common size motor for this size of mill, from what I've seen so far it's plenty powerful for the BF20 mill.
wow turned out great, Hey what spindle was that you used. If you have a link that would be even better. Again great job
Thanks, its just a cheap chinese spindle. you can buy them from multiple sellers on aliexpress.com just search for 1.5KW spindle and a handful of sellers will pop up.
A-lot of the listings indicate that they have 2 sets of angular contact bearings, as far as I can tell this is incorrect for all listings, the one I have appears to have one set of AC bearings at the front and a deep groove ball bearing on the rear, you don't see this unless you remove the shaft driven fan which is virtually useless and makes more noise than anything which is why I replaced it with a server fan.
If you have the budget I'd seriously suggest looking at a Teknomotor brand spindle from damencnc.com in the Netherlands I previously had an 1.6KW ER25 Electrospindle and I had no complaints about it, they also sell a mounting block for the BF20 mills to attach a spindle its a little pricy but is one solid piece of aluminium, but price wise the setup would cost almost as much as a new mill which is why I went with the budget spindle which I already had on hand.
What would be the most useful tool between cnc router and cnc mill? Thanks
Depends what you want to make but if small aluminium/steel/plastic parts a mill may be more useful, or larger wood, plastic, possibly aluminium then a cnc router. The travel on these smaller mills can be a big limiting factor.
@CT Hello , right now i'm in the posistion to purchase between optimum BF20L and Sieg X2.7L (the table is same 700mm length), what do you suggest for me? do you have picture or video to compare sieg X2.7 vs optimum bf20L ? that sieg X2.7L z-axis column look big right or it just steel plate.
I'd strongly suggest the Optimum BF20L, the column is much stronger, a better finish and mounting holes for plates ect. are positioned correctly (x2.7 mounting holes were hand drilled I believe as I needed to map their location and some were on an angle, but I did have an early model of the X2.7)
The column on the Sieg X2.7 is open on the front and back with a few small bridges tying the back of the column together (the cover is just sheet metal and doesn't add any strength to the column), I had issues tightening the z axis dovetail on the X2.7 as I believe the column was hour-glassed, ie. Z slide was loose in the middle and tight top and bottom, probably due to the open front and back and or issues with the machining.
The belt drive is tempting but there are kits out there for converting the BF20L and although it'll be more expensive it's a much better way to go in my opinion.
Guess it is good for a mock-up. But pla will flex way to much for actual use.
No more metal work with this conversion...
yeah cus the plastic adapters take the load of the spindle, nice.
Very creative ideas here!
Nicely Done !!
Hi, What printer do you use?
Hi, it's a very early generic chinese 3d printer not sure on the name as it doesn't have one on the frame, they don't seem to make them anymore, it was one of those kits which you need to assemble completely, 3d printed frame parts, 200mm3 working area. ect.
What plasma cutter do you use?
Just your generic chinese variant with a blowback start torch for if I ever want to make a cnc table for it. The brand is SWS.
CT Thanks. Time and motivation for me to get one.
Great video, lots of work. I guess you have all the footage still available - I would appreciate to see a real time, not time-compressed version. Possible?
Thanks, but it's not possible as there was limited footage to begin with.
Where did you buy the ballscrew?
Silvers-123 on ebay, they're Taiwan rolled ballscrews, they cost about double the chinese bottom of the barrel screws but are much better quality.
CT do you have a link for me by any chance? :)
They're an Australian seller so not sure if that'll be any help, it also looks like they're running low on stock, normally they'd have sizes in 50mm increments.
stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/Ballscrew-5mm-pitch-/_i.html?_fsub=412643919&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Where did you find the software to rune the CNC?
The CNC software is mach 3, it's old but still works.
Is that free or at least not too expensive?
It's not free it was $149USD from memory, I've had it since 2008. I'll be switching over to UCCNC soon which is also not free but its really not too expensive.
I've heard Linux CNC is free and works good but I haven't personally used it.
Thanks, so apart from CAD that is all the software you need? Also what is controlling the stepper motors?
For software you'll need, CAD, CAM and CNC software. For CAM I use Vectric Cut 2D for now, for the hardware side you'll need stepper motors, stepper motor drivers, power supply, breakout board, and compatible computer with Parallel port which is probably the cheapest option.
Funny only just found this video iv also 3d printed my motor mounts on a sx3 works great
Well done!
Nice work !
I like your style!
Interesting how you used the plasma to cut the first U shape then used the grinder for the rest. I know how you feel. A plasma cutter is not the magic wand tool Iw as hoping for either :-(
Pete's Shredder.7ik
Fantastic this convertion, congratulation. Do you can tell me which the software that use?
Thanks, I was using Sketchup for CAD, Vectric Cut 2D for CAM, and Mach 3 for CNC its basic software but limited, I'm currently looking to move to a new CAD/CAM package and to a UCCNC ethernet controller and software for the CNC side.
@@ausxmods Thanks a lot Mrs
Vorrei acquistare un tornio artigianale di precisione per obbistica, non so come fare voi che siete bravi a costrirli mi informate?
Mi consejo es que sustituyas las piezas impresas por fresados de aluminio lo han tes posible. Ahora puedes fresarlas.
Thanks ..very nice project..
Very nice 👍
Fantastic !
Nice build, but i wonder if the shitty 3D- printer plastic is oil resistent?
So far the Way oil doesn't seem to have affected it (PLA)
ah you used PLA was looking for wat you used to print the stuff
É Profissional!!
Автор поставил муфту полиуретановую на вал с шагавым двигателем.погрешностей не будет в работе?из за нее,так как она усадку даст.
Scared the hell out of me watching you drill without a vise.
wonderful
How much?
phuc nguyentrong 3
Excepcional o seu trabalho
Thank you for files...
Super
For better results cast 3d printer parts into aluminum
QUE BUEN TRABAJO SALUDOS
nice!!!
Круть!
is this machine still alive ?
It's currently disassembled while I upgrade most plastic parts to steel.
well if you used PLA or pretty much any type of plastic it will deform overtime with prolonged pressure. You won't be accurate either and milling metals, just forget it. The plastic will deform and twist and will throw your measurements all over the place. It's cool, but not a practical material.
Spot on, found this out coming back to the machine a month later and finding everything loose, did try milling aluminium but it was pretty awful machining, spot drilling plates could work and then hand finish them but might as well avoid the days of 3d printing and make them by hand first up.
The 3D printed parts should only be used long enough to finish milling the aluminum parts replacements. So after dialing it in, machine your aluminum parts and replace. Very temporary.
with 3D printer and I see welding
Ha! who needs a cnc mill anyway (or a manual mill...or a lathe...) :-)
pro
thumbds up
Was going great up to the point you used printed parts lol..
It's something different, I do admit its not great. I have already remade a-lot of parts in aluminium and steel will provide an updated video one of these days.
Hi
Сто за реэущая машинка в самли начале
3d prinded stuff is crappy af to use for this machine!
Good enough to redo the parts in metal once the CNC is up and running. Sure, you have to disassemble it again and put it back together once you made the first metal parts, but that sure as hell beats having to buy a second mill.
NFG
Plastic parts on a mill? No. Just no
So uncultured build.
So many mistakes.