I found your video very useful to me, in fact it stimulated me to do more research on these safety boards, I discovered they carry a basic program for various function such as thermal monitoring and voltage configurations. People in general do not realize that when you replace the lithium ion cells in a laptop battery pack, many SAFETY BOARDS (PCB's) lose their pre-set programming, as a consequence the thermal protection of the circuit is lost, I have been lucky to have been given many dozens of old laptop battery packs and having tested the circuits, found some do retain much of the programming, such as minimum voltage cut off, but most worrying of all is the loss of thermal monitoring of the pack. The way around this is to maintain power to the circuit board at all times, this can be risky to the circuit also, as I found them to be very sensitive to damage, if charging from a LIPO Charger the pulsed charge can damage the boards. I went through some testing of the SAFETY BOARDS this information may be useful. Understanding LION Safety Boards
Great to hear that! I'm glad so many people have benefited from this video. This is so easy fix that it almost made me laugh out loud when I first time fixed the recelled battery by jump starting it. Had no idea this was even possible.
You shorted the positive terminal to WHAT? Why aren't you clear? Are you shorting out one parallel set of batteries or what? You say quickly...quickly what? You being so vague and English deficient could cause one to start a fire or ruin all the chips if they aren't being told exactly what you are doing.
@@global-hellsorosshjt5469 ? It was perfectly clear to me, he said he jumped the positive battery side to the positive output terminal of the connector (assuming, of course, 12v to 12v; must not jump the battery's 12v to a lower voltage output terminal, if existing, or to ground or any other (data?) terminal; check for labelling on the BMS board or try to find a "pinout" for your battery pack model number). Sure, his english is a bit rough, but even for my ancient tinnitus-riddled and heavy-metal-concert-damaged ears it was clear. ?
@@global-hellsorosshjt5469rude and hostile...I understood his English just fine...but that's because I have some electronics education...if you have no idea what you're doing, you have no business looking for a "paint-by-numbers" cheat-sheet that holds your hand and explains details you should already know before you try stuff like this....for exactly the safety reasons you state.
Many things have changed during these 10 years, but evidently this video keeps on helping people. Lots of positive feedback even after all these years. Thank you for your feedback!
Many thanks from Spainl!! I tried everyting, tutorials, videos, manuals but nothing worked to restart it including to connect + to - and your trick works!!!!
You magnificent bastard!!!! I love you man!!!! My battery went into protective mode and I thought the chip was burnt. I swapped the control board with my old battery. But when I plug it in the chip memory was on the old cells. Pretty much gave up then decided to search on how to reset the chip and found ur video. Didnt think it was going to work since it is a different battery. Mine is HP Pavilion dv6t. Holy shit, you cant imagine my surprise when battery test showed my new lithium information and output current was available. You sir are a genius. Now I'm wondering if I needed to swap the controller board at all. Maybe I just needed to reset the controller board of my previous battery.
I just replaced the cells of my Lenovo W520 battery and closed the case again. Then I hat to "jumpstart" it, and I had no conncetion to the 11.1V battery pole. So I restarted it by connecting an external power supply with the exact voltage of the battery (in my case the cells had each 3.62V, so I applied 10.86V). Thank you very much for your help!
Hi, according to docs once cells are disconnected battery would lose some of the data stored in smbus circuit. Does battery manager still work correctly? Which kind of data is still available ( e.g capacity/Wh etc)?
You are genius! First I replaced 6 cell batteries with new ones on my gateway (AS07B41), thought is fine, tryed to check output voltage (nothing). Secondly changed 8 cell batteries on asus (A42-M70), checked voltage in batteries inside was good-14.4V, output voltage (nothing). I thought burned both bms of batteries. I will try as soon as possible. Thank you very much!
Saw the reset on another channel didn’t work maybe cause I didn’t charge up the cells after replace, charging now, that’s a brilliant idea to test with fan or bulb before assembling the battery hope it works this time good job mate.
My results: After replace the battery cells, the voltage in the connector is equal 0. Then i tried to touch a wire in the positve (battery cell) to positve (connector) and nothing, tried too with negative and still 0v. Not working to connecting negative to switch, but if i do a jumper between postive from cell to positve from connector, i have 14,60v and i can charge on laptop. If i remove the wire, nothing work.
great finding! I had thinkpad t60 batteries who gave an error (fast blinking orange battery) after opening and jumpstarting (just connected the positive battery end to the positive connector) the battery started charging as usual again! thank you for making this info public!
If your answer was to digital4expert's comment, you are right. This shouldn't be done without recelling the battery. If it wasn't: This battery was already damaged and cells were replaced before the video. Doing the jump starting process to already almost dead battery over and over again will damage the battery more and at some point this method stops working. I don't think using this method after recelling the battery once every few years will damage the battery pack's internal circuitry.
Can I connect the battery pins directly to the outlet socket so that voltage continues to come out? because if I attach it and then release it, the current will immediately be 0 volts
I watched your video about the battery reset on the laptop batterypack. I did just as you showed. But im still getting that error message that the battery has got a permanent failure and needs replacement. Let me start from begining... I have a dell laptop Inspiron 7537 which is like 6-7 yrs old. Battery is dying on me so i planned to Re-cell the battery pack. Got some good cells. Same wattage same chemistry... im replacing all cells. Its a 4 cell battery. Now i hooked all the cells with the correct orientation and soddered it to the battery PCB and checked the voltages. Now as you said in your RUclips video to jumpstart it. I did. But i am not getting the battery to charge it is saying that "This battery has encountered a permanent damage and needs replacement " i understand. Might be the cells i baught are not good. But i checked. All 4 cells are giving out 14.30 volts. Now i tried soddering the pcb back to the old cells that i took from battery. Now when i connect it it says the same "permanent damage error" i tried to jumpstart it as in your video. Again same message. What is that im doing wrong???
Many advanced protection IC's have functions that detect severe undervoltage and prohibit any attempt to re-charge or to further discharge it. The idea behind that is that deeply overdischarged cells suffer from irreversible damage that decrease cell safety and could cause an internal short-circuit (and spectacular fire) when you continue to use it. The side-effect is that disconnecting cells for replacement triggers this protection and without connecting to the IC and modifying flag responsible for recording such condition you cannot use it anymore. Oh, did I mention that some IC's have provisions to be encrypted/password protected?
@@suadcokljat1045 This battery protection IC apparently does not have a permanent disable function. Or it could have a provision for that but this function is not used/disabled.
@@mibars The only proper way to unlock the battery that I know is - replace damaged cells and then figure out what battery controler is used and the connect to battery programmer evaluation kit (such as TI EV2200) and using TI software unlock the battery.
@@suadcokljat1045 True. But there are some password protected BMS chips too. Then you may need to completely reflash battery to enable it. And if there was authentication between battery and host device then despite working it will be rejected by host device.
Hi, I also have an Asus that is more than 10 years old and the battery controller shows 38%, so it makes me turn off the PC earlier than expected. With your short circuit did it also reset the charging cycle counter and therefore the total capacity in mA?
The resistor isn't actually needed. I used it to test if the battery still works with some load connected to it. The fan is also only for testing. It gives nice visual feedback whether the output works or not.
Hi, I have tried above method with no luck. I have replace the battery cell and then run the HP Battery Check apps, the result : Cycle count = 343/300 Design Capacity = 2792 mAh Full Charge Capacity = 1 mAh (0%) Remaining Capacity = 0 mAh Current = 0 mAh Terminal Voltage = 15436 mV Design Voltage = 14800 mV Cell Voltage 1 = 3814 mV Cell Voltage 2 = 3903 mV Cell Voltage 3 = 3767 mV Cell Voltage 4 = 3953 mV is there any way to reset the battery controller lock?
Did not work for the Lenovo battery LY10P6Y21 I have, I guess the company really made sure to have the bms shutdown when the cells are no longer working properly.
@mitulabattyi Yes. I connected the fan to be able to see when there is voltage in the connector. Resistor is for testing if the battery can handle 1A load.
I have an HP Envy laptop, it has 3 batteries and these have a good voltage of 3.7 volts, but there is no voltage in the terminal block slot, I have tried to do what you do in the video but I am not sure which are the positive slots and the negative.
sadly it didn't work for me. maybe I damaged the protection circuit but when I connected the + of the batteries to the + of the circuit's output it just started to smell burned :/
I replaced cells on two laptops, different brands. When I charge the cells, the laptop happily uses them. But none of them charge the batteries, HP one says "connected, not charging" and the other one says charging, but it's not. Will try this tomorrow and see if it solves my irrelevant issue.
Moro! Haluaisin vaihtaa Thinkpadiin kennot, pitäiskö tämän riittää uudelleen kennotukseen? Tiedätkö kennojen ohjelmoinnista mitään? Tämä tapahan ei muuta akkuun ohjelmoitua mah määrää suuntaan taikka toiseen? Eli vaikka vaihtaisin kennojen mah määrän suurempaan, niin akun ohjauspiiri käyttää edelleen vanhaa mah määrää? Onnistuisko sulta Corebootin asennus X230 ja T430 Thinkpadeihin rahaa vastaan?
Moikka! Tällä menetelmällä sain aikoinaan Thinkpad T40, sekä jonkin uudemmankin Thinkpadin akkukeston palautettua erittäin heikosta siedettävään. Alkuperäisestä akkukestosta jäätiin todennäköisesti vain johtuen siitä, että käytin käytettyjä kennoja. Alkuperäisen/suunnitellun akkukapasiteetin tieto ei tällä menetelmällä muutu. Todellisen/lasketun akkukapasiteetin tieto päivittyy tietääkseni jossain läppäreissä parin latauksen ja purun jälkeen automaattisesti, joissain taitaa olla akun resetointi-ominaisuus biossissa tai valmistajan sovelluksissa? Tämä todellisen kapasiteetin tietohan vaikuttaa lähinnä akkumittarin paikkaansapitävyyteen. Viimeksi tässä kesällä uudelleenkennotin jonkin vanhan WinXP:tä pyörittävän HP:n läppärin ja siinä ei tarvinnut tehdä mitään akun ohjelmointia tai resetointia. Mittari laski tasaisesti 100%->0% käytön edetessä ja aika-arviokin piti melko hyvin paikkaansa. Tämä siitä huolimatta, että akkukesto muuttui kennotuksen myötä 20min -> 2h. Sanoisin että kannattaa ensin kokeilla ihan vain uudelleenkennotusta ja tätä "apukäynnistystä" jos ei muuten lähde käyntiin. Jos kaikki pelaa täydellisesti, homma on valmis. Jos akkukestossa tai akkumittarissa on puutteita, suosittelen seuraavaksi etsimään biossista akun resetointia/kalibrointia. Muistaakseni IBM:n / Lenovon läppäreissä tuo ominaisuus oli olemassa...? "Suunnitellun kapasiteetin" tiedon muuttamisen tarpeesta/vaikutuksesta/muuttamisesti en tiedä. Voi olla että se on vain vertailutietona käyttäjälle tai huoltohenkilölle. Corebootti on terminä ja konseptina tuttu, mutta en ole sitä koskaan asentanut. En valitettavasti ala harjoittelemaan toisten laitteilla, edes rahaa vastaan. Sorry. No tulipas taas tarinoitua :) Toivottavasti tarina vastasi kysymyksiisi.
Most "switches" are located in negative pole because these are done with MOSFETs and N-channel MOSFET's suitable for use on negative pole are cheaper and have lower resistance. If you keep the jumper between negative pole and negative battery terminal you will make it "work" but without any protection! Unless there is some extra protection like self control protector but they are often secondary and does not react to all the conditions that may happen inside (in other words DO NOT DO THIS)
Yeah. I've used this T40 as my secondary computer, so I have used it only for ~40 hours after this video. I haven't had any problems with this battery after recelling and "jump starting".
Dell D600 battery (C1295) With a jumper between Ground and the SYS PRESENT pin I can measure voltage and discharge the battery using a R/C charger /discharger. However I can not charge at the out most pins. No current flow goes into the battery. If I put the battery back in the laptop it will charge it full again. Would you know if I need another jumper to allow the battery to accept charging
Hi, thanks for the video. I've got a Dell laptop battery that is almost new but stopped working suddenly after my laptop was using too much resource. I suspect the battery got a violent discharge which makes it now completely inoperative (an orange LED is blinking continually and no charge is possible.) From what I read elsewhere, it is possible to revive any "dead" lithium battery, by giving it a "boost charge" of some seconds or minutes. If you understand my problem, could you explain me in a few words how I can proceed once I manage to open the battery pack? I'm fully aware of the dangers of blowing cells if the poles are mixed up, but willing to do it very carefully. Thanks!
+Pierre Christen Usually reviving over discharged cells is done by charging them with constant current of few hundred milliamps (with voltage limit set below 4.2V) until they reach 3V, then continuing the charging process regular way. Battery packs have low voltage limits for reason. Please search for dangers of charging over discharged cells before deciding whether to do it or not. Good luck, hope you'll be able to fix your battery!
+Pierre Christen It would be best to do it separately (each cell or cell pair individually) or with charger that can balance the cells. If you know someone who is into RC-cars, ask if they have a charger and if they could help you with the charging.
+Hugatry's HackVlog Hi again, just to let you know I did it with partial success. What I did is open my Dell Latitude E5410 battery. It was very difficult and I spoiled the contacts in the process, which makes it now unusable. The positive is I was able to revive the two cells that had about zero volt by slowly charging them with an old 5v 350mhA Sony charger. It took time as I did it to both the cells together, but they now produce power! I now intend to open an old spare battery pack which is very weak and attempt to move the "good" cells to it, without spoiling it this time. Thanks for your support!
I had an X60 battery that was completely drained (0V on each cell) after years of disuse and - probably for this reason - displayed an "irreparable damage" error message. I was able to revive the individual cells by carefully recharging them. Nevertheless, the procedure described here did not work, the battery still provides no output and causes the same error message.
To really test if your batteries are the problem versus there circuitry come back to each cell that you fully charged and see if they slowly discharge over time. If so if so that sell was probably the culprit.
6 лет назад
Not working for me. Switch is on +, by connecting wire to + on battery and - on pcb, there is 11,6V. Any idea? Acer 7630EZ
Hi! I have that battery to but it doesn't work for me! Can you explain me what did you do? If i test continuity between + of battery and + of the terminal its ok. And from + of the battery to the - of the terminal its OK too!
Hi. COol information. Sadly I tried on an LG S425 with a SQU-1007 battery, no success. :( Maybe damaged it, or it does not reset this way. Tried both - - and + +
hi i have a Sony Vaio ux laptop. There was a some problem in the battery that makes the 5200 mah battery pack run out of power in only 10 minitues. Also battery inducator jumps to 100 percent when its near %30-34. İ removed old cells and put 2 cells inside the case and soldered them. After i plug the battery to laptop, it says "No Battery Detected" i tried putting old cells again and it didint work. When i mesure the output voltage of the connection terminals its like 0.23 v. İt dosent give more than that. I cant buy or change the PCB or buy a new pack beacuse its too old that none of the parts are on the internet or repair services.Its also so expensive compared to USD. i dont want to spend 58x5.80 Money on a battery its almost 300 TL i can buy a new laptop with that whatever i need to know what is the problem on my battery PCB.
Hi, are you still able to get some information from the battery after cells were disconnected? It seems that some infos are stored in volatile memory of the battery itself, so unless you find a way to provide energy to the inernal chip during the operation, those infos will be definitely lost once you change cells.
Sorry, I don't remember whether I checked the data on battery's memory or not. If the memory was cleared, it didn't contain anything vital, as the battery worked after recelling without problems.
Hello, I have something to ask My ThinkPad Edge battery show poor condition on thinkpad power manager. Before I change my battery i want to try to fix it, maybe it just need to replace the cell of the battery. So I open it and found all my 6 battery is in good condition, 3,9 VDC, all of them. Using my battery charger for 18650 batt, and it show the battery is good. Then i reconnect the battery to the ic, and found there's no voltage on the pin. I do like you do in this video, still no working, I also try with the negative side. Any idea what went wrong ?
+Nico S First, thank you for commenting. The power manager shows the battery's condition as poor, because it (somewhat) works and can be charged, but it will go empty quicker than new one. It is also possible that battery with poor condition cannot give enough current for heavy load. So reading a voltage of the cells doesn't confirm that the cells are in good condition. I'm sorry, but don't have any other tips to share for "jump starting" a laptop battery. I hope you'll find some kind of solution for your battery problem.
Sorry I missed your comment. No, the resistor is not needed. It was only to test the battery’s operation. Momentarily connecting jumper wire from battery cell’s positive to positive in the battery pack’s connector is all that was needed in my case. For some batteries it is negative to negative. (NEVER connect jumper between positive and negative... Fire hazard!)
I have no idea how to charge laptop battery packs without laptop. The charging circuitry is usually inside the laptop, so you CAN NOT connect laptop's charger directly to the terminals of the battery pack. But if you charge the battery pack with the correct laptop, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use it to power flash lights or other circuits (which can handle the output voltage of the battery pack). You'll have to measure the voltage constantly to detect when the battery is empty.
Actually you can charge laptop battery by cell it self one by one. But it require a lot of attention on metering the raising of charging voltage. For example if you use 5 volt charger on 18650 battery, the maximum raising charging voltage will be 4.55volt.
Any similar tricks for 45n1043 battery (found in thinkpads) ? i've measured the cells, they had acceptable voltage when i got it (3.4V). I also charged the batteries fully via external li-ion charger. That way in windows i get 100% charge, but it doesn't actually power the laptop (shuts off completely)
Hi! Im from Argentina, so Im sorry for my bad english. Can you help me here? I changed the cells from my lonovo s10 batery (it has only 3 cells) but never could make it work again. However I try your method and it works, except that the fan stops working when I pull out the cable. Am I doing something wrong? What if I plug the batery and I keep the cable doing the short-circuit?
There might be something broken in the PCB of the battery, if your battery works with the "jumper cable" connected but not without it. I do not recommend leaving the jumper cable there for more than few seconds. It bypasses the protection circuit, so it has no sense of power going in (=charging) or out (=powering the laptop). There is fire hazard if you try to charge battery without a protection circuit. So DISCONNECT the wire after few seconds and DO NOT keep it connected when the battery is plugged in.
Nicolas Figlioli you could try measuring the individual cells with a multimeter (if you have one) and see if all of them are giving atleast 3V. If one of them gives little less than 3V, that might be a problem. In that case, you'd need to charge the cells with a charger designed to charge individual cells. If you don't have a multimeter and the cells are new, we can assume that they are charged enough and the problem is in the PCB. Sorry but no, I don't think there is anything I can do to fix broken PCB of the battery.
Hello sir, please help me I did replace the cells and the bms connector is not showing any voltage, I also did the method you shown , The fan working when giving direct voltage but the battery /bms is not resetting Plz help me
Very cool. I have some batteries I bought on ebay that I think were made with poor cells. I'm going to try changing them out and try this trick. Actually, I might try this with the original batteries first just to verify that it does work.
asus EEE 1001HA. This trick does not work for me. I have tried add the fan on positive+negative output of the battery-pack. And than over-bridge positive side of batteries to positive side of the fan. The fan started work. After that I interrupted connection to do fan from batteries and the fan stopped spinning.... In netbook the pack does not work. Any idea? CMOS battery is changed and in the system works well. Thank you
+d ddf How long did you keep the positive side of the batteries and the positive side of the connector connectd? Like you can see at 1:05 in my video, I needed to keep it connected around one second. Quick connection wasn't enough to "start" the internal controller. If voltage of each cell is over 3V and keeping the connection for 1-2s before letting go doesn't help, there is a change that there is something wrong with the controller board. I can't be sure, but that would be my guess.
It looks like it must, somehow, be resetting the control board. I wish I had found this a couple of years ago. I tried to recell a battery but got no output. I assumed I had damaged something and did not persevere due to being afraid of the fire hazard involved in putting a defective battery in my laptop.
Yeah, there is a mosfet between the cells and the output of the battery pack. When that mosfet becomes non-conductive, it won't just cut the power from the connector, but also from the protection circuit. This can happen due too low voltage or some other thing that the protection circuit detects as a problem. When the power has been cut from the protection circuit, it can't make the mosfet conductive again, without power (and the mosfet is blocking it from getting power from the cells). With method in the video, we are powering the protection circuit long enough to let it make the mosfet conductive again.This should work, if the problem has been fixed (fe. dead cells replaced).
Instead of a jumper, you might want to try jump starting it from the outside of the battery with a current limited 12V power supply. Pretty much any 12Vdc power supply with a 100 ohm resistor in series should be enough.
Resistor and fan are not related to jump starting. Resistor and fan are not related to each other. I don't remember what value resistor I used and it doesn't matter, because it is not needed for jump starting. Only the wire I used is needed.
There is a possibility that battery has protection which disables the output permanently, if any dramatic fault (like disconnected cell, over discharge) happens. I've had couple of laptops that had non-resettable fuse, which the protection IC burned to disable charging/discharging potentially dangerously faulty cells. I might not be able to help you, but leave a comment telling which laptop model you have and maybe someone else knows about it and chimes in.
Thank you for posting this! I have a dead thinkpad battery that I will try to revive following your technique. It is kind of a good thing that you didn't keep the battery looking like new when you opened it. The damaged case will be a reminder that the battery is modified and should be handled with extra caution.
Thank you for the very informative upload. If you could give the part no. of the controller IC that your battery has, it would be very helpful. For example in an ASUS laptop that I own the battery's controller is the bq20z45 from Texas Instruments. Thank you.
Unfortunately I don't have this laptop anymore so I can't check the controllers part no. What I have is broken battery from Acer laptop (can't remember exact model, but it was 5+ year old Travelmate) and it had bq2084 and bq29312 on the PCB. Thanks for commenting and sharing info about the controller.
+Hugatry's HackVlog Did you rebuild the battery from the Acer? If yes did you apply the same method for the jump start? (by the way, to give the full info, the part no. of the battery from the ASUS laptop that I mention above is the A32-K53) Thank you for the immediate response!
No I didn't rebuild it. I got it some time ago from a friend who bought a new battery for his laptop instead of getting that old one recelled. Now it's waiting to be recycled. So sorry, this wasn't too useful info regarding which ICs are used in batteries that implement the "power switch" -type under voltage protection...
I need help please , when I connected the positive end of the battery to the p+ pin it sparks but connected the the positive end of the battery to p - pin but nothing No success Battry is Hp pro6 Hp battery for 4440s Please urgently need help
hi i just tried , its not working. i am using 6 v motor along with 10 ohm resistor. i am getting smoke from resistor. if i connect or short from positive to positive motor is spinning, if i connect it for long time smoke is just appeared. how can i try.. please help me
Hi. If you short positive from the cells to positive of the output connector and motor starts spinning, you are doing it right. Those are the correct pins. The resistor will consume about 10W depending on voltage of the battery. If it doesn't have cooling it will get hot if connected to the battery for a long time. The resistor and the motor aren't needed, you could try without them and measure the output with a multimeter. If the output doesn't stay on (=motor stops spinning) when the short is removed, then this method shown in the video probably doesn't work. There are two things that you could try: 1) Remove the motor and the resistor. Short positive to positive for a second or two. Remove the short and see if the output is on. Or 2) Measure voltage of the cells, make sure each of them is above 3 volts. If any of them is less than that, controller board might switch the output off because of that. Good luck!
Hi there! I have short circuited (just for a second) the positive and negative conncections and the output is 0V. What if i wont dissasemble the battery and i use an external suply to revive?
The burning question is: * Has the manufacturers of battery packs deliberately installed a 'usage life' clock in the battery pack and what you are doing is resetting the clock?' * If so, why? * Is this a safety feature? * Is this an economic feature? I don't expect you to be able to answer the last few questions.....but it would be interesting to know. Kind regards Al
Good questions! I've heard rumors about programmed maximum charging cycles on laptop batteries, but I haven't found any proof of that. In all of the dead laptop batteries I've had there has been atleast one dead battery cell in them. So no signs of "preprogrammed death". I know there is a counter that counts the charging cycles and that is stored in EEPROM, which holds it's content even without power... It has to be reprogrammed to change the content. Recelling and "jump starting" won't reset the counter. Lets say some random manufacturers put the magical maximum charging cycle count in their batteries. Why would they do that, why they don't determine the battery's condition based measured capacity (real capacity decreases from original capacity over time)? One reason that comes to my mind too is money. If the battery dies after couple of years, many users would think "Oh well, that battery lasted for years. I'll just buy a new one". Some might even buy a new laptop, because specs of the new laptop are so much better than the three year old's. Like I said, those were good questions, but I haven't found any reliable information about programmed max charging count.
This is called "planned obsolescence". Inkjet printer makers have been doing it for a while. Apply the same logic to batteries and it's likely happening there as well.
Alan Defoe I know for a fact that some batteries do have a management chip which controls the charger. This includes the maximum charge cycles and an age feature measuring how many days the device has been in service. I can't remember the chip number use offhand, but all of the details are in the datasheet.
Electro i know right our printer at work is so full of **** every time it runs out of toner you can shake it and it flys everywhere and it will NOT allow you to print period... I think that sort of practice should be illegal and if they feel they must have it, there should be a option to turn it off.
I have lenovo g-450 i also re-celled the battery and i have the same problem no output from the battery connected you here short circuited the +ve point to some point on pc board in my ckt what is the point where i have to short
Hii... I trye this metod on lenovo g550 battery who was loked. The batery unloked but after first charge hi stop charging agein. After one year i open battery again, but desolder all 3 cell packs and i charge cells with rc helicopter charger turnigi to 3.7v and 3 cell packs. Before i balance cell to this voltage, they vas 3.54v 3.78v 4.02v very disbalanced pack!!! After one night balancing and make 3 cells to same 3.7v voltage i solder cells again to controler board and now evretyng work fine again, 2 days... Make and two battery calibration wth lenovo pover managment and batery capaciti is corect regonise now! so... Balance veryyyyy good cells, solder again, unluck power bord with video say and good luck!
Sorry for late reply, I must have missed the notification. No, this doesn't work in your case. This might only work if the battery pack doesn't give any output (0 volts when measured with multimeter, no action at all when trying to power on the laptop). In your case the battery cells are just slowly dying, they are so old... I'd say it's time for a new battery.
+Nick Stavrou If battery doesn't last longer than (for example) 15 minutes, new cells should fix it. Method demonstrated in this video might be needed to restart the battery after replacing the cells. Buying a whole new battery (instead of just the cells) is of course simplest and maybe safest way, but can cost little bit more.
thanks for the video but I tried mine ,it is only when I Connet the wire the fan is rolling, when I remove it ,still it remained dormant. . what should I do??
My battery use to have "good" at the time life and overheating wasn't issue for me. One night when I watching a movie on it , I forgot to plug the power jack , no warning messages for low % left my SL500 just power off. I guess in my case after so long cell are dead too. Did you replace any cells or it was just a fuse? Thanks in regards I didn't expect quick answer.
In my case it was just a fuse. Hard to say what's in your case. Laptop batteries have protection from over discharging, so it should be rather hard to kill it in this way (I think). My SL500 was turning off without warnings when battery was just old (even if in the system it was "good").
Anyway I think will be fun in free time to play with my old battery just from curiosity. Thanks for you time, do you still have your SL500 what version it is the nVidia GPU or Intel GMA?
@pramuk9998 Yeah, I quickly shorted the positive side of the cell pack and the positive pin of the connector. Unfortunately I don't know which pin is positive in g450's battery's connector.
In this case it is a protective measure. In this video you got a 6 cell battery system. They are connected 2 in parallel and then in series. You get a voltage if you multiply 3 x 3.7V = 11.1V, But in a real case scenario a fully charged 18650 battery drops out a voltage nearly 4.2V. So you get a output voltage of 12.6V ! Any normal fan can handle max. 12V. In this case the resistors purpose is to drop down under 12V to avoid a fan damage or worse.
Sorry to hear that. Do you get an output while the wire is connected? You can check this by connecting a multimeter/fan/led+resistor or something like that to the output, while trying this jump starting. If not, the protection circuit might have switch in the negative side. I'd try this jump starting method with negative side of the battery pack and a negative side (-) of the output.
The resistor and fan aren't necessary for this method. Fan is just an visual feedback, showing when there is voltage in the battery's output. Resistor acts as a load, so I know if the battery can give couple of ampers of current. The resistor was there just to prove that the battery is able to give couple of ampers, without shutting down. I could have done this without the fan and the resistor with same results. Check my last response to Nicolas' comment. I hope you can find some kind of solution for your problem.
hugatry Thanks, i have heard that disconnecting the PCB in some laptops can lose the information stored in an IC in the circuit and it wont work again! is that true?
Well, technically that could be possible. But I believe that usually the information is stored in EEPROM, which will store the information even without the power. Disconnecting the cells/PCB will cut the power from the controller in the PCB and therefore it will disable the output (this can many times be fixed with jump starting method). Battery might have a fuse in the PCB, one that can't be reset by jump starting, but instead needs replacing. Or there might be something else broken in the PCB. All of the laptop batteries aren't equal. Some might have memory that loses the information when not powered and they might need reprogramming or something, after reconnecting the cells. I haven't heard about that kind of laptop battery, but who knows... maybe they exist. PCB in the laptop's battery might be small, but the circuit is complicated. There are many things that can make the battery dead.
I have to say that I'm not recommending you to do anything. Getting a new battery is the safest way to fix your problem. I believe method mentioned in therealjammit's comment MIGHT work. If you end up trying it, it should work with quickish tap (~1s). Keep in mind that batteries might explode or catch fire if you mess with power supplys and batteries.
I found your video very useful to me, in fact it stimulated me to do more research on these safety boards, I discovered they carry a basic program for various function such as thermal monitoring and voltage configurations. People in general do not realize that when you replace the lithium ion cells in a laptop battery pack, many SAFETY BOARDS (PCB's) lose their pre-set programming, as a consequence the thermal protection of the circuit is lost, I have been lucky to have been given many dozens of old laptop battery packs and having tested the circuits, found some do retain much of the programming, such as minimum voltage cut off, but most worrying of all is the loss of thermal monitoring of the pack. The way around this is to maintain power to the circuit board at all times, this can be risky to the circuit also, as I found them to be very sensitive to damage, if charging from a LIPO Charger the pulsed charge can damage the boards. I went through some testing of the SAFETY BOARDS this information may be useful. Understanding LION Safety Boards
Great to hear that!
I'm glad so many people have benefited from this video. This is so easy fix that it almost made me laugh out loud when I first time fixed the recelled battery by jump starting it. Had no idea this was even possible.
2021...once again you help people..gracias my friend
You shorted the positive terminal to WHAT? Why aren't you clear? Are you shorting out one parallel set of batteries or what? You say quickly...quickly what? You being so vague and English deficient could cause one to start a fire or ruin all the chips if they aren't being told exactly what you are doing.
@@global-hellsorosshjt5469 ? It was perfectly clear to me, he said he jumped the positive battery side to the positive output terminal of the connector (assuming, of course, 12v to 12v; must not jump the battery's 12v to a lower voltage output terminal, if existing, or to ground or any other (data?) terminal; check for labelling on the BMS board or try to find a "pinout" for your battery pack model number). Sure, his english is a bit rough, but even for my ancient tinnitus-riddled and heavy-metal-concert-damaged ears it was clear. ?
@@global-hellsorosshjt5469rude and hostile...I understood his English just fine...but that's because I have some electronics education...if you have no idea what you're doing, you have no business looking for a "paint-by-numbers" cheat-sheet that holds your hand and explains details you should already know before you try stuff like this....for exactly the safety reasons you state.
just did that, its 2021, ten years after the video...still amazing.
Many things have changed during these 10 years, but evidently this video keeps on helping people. Lots of positive feedback even after all these years.
Thank you for your feedback!
@@Hugatry thanks, much appreciated.
Many thanks from Spainl!! I tried everyting, tutorials, videos, manuals but nothing worked to restart it including to connect + to - and your trick works!!!!
...it's NOT a "TRICK," the power jump is waking the BMS.
Wow this works. Same situation here for a recelled lenovo t220t battery. Thank you for sharing!
You magnificent bastard!!!! I love you man!!!!
My battery went into protective mode and I thought the chip was burnt. I swapped the control board with my old battery. But when I plug it in the chip memory was on the old cells.
Pretty much gave up then decided to search on how to reset the chip and found ur video. Didnt think it was going to work since it is a different battery. Mine is HP Pavilion dv6t.
Holy shit, you cant imagine my surprise when battery test showed my new lithium information and output current was available.
You sir are a genius.
Now I'm wondering if I needed to swap the controller board at all. Maybe I just needed to reset the controller board of my previous battery.
I just replaced the cells of my Lenovo W520 battery and closed the case again.
Then I hat to "jumpstart" it, and I had no conncetion to the 11.1V battery pole. So I restarted it by connecting an external power supply with the exact voltage of the battery (in my case the cells had each 3.62V, so I applied 10.86V).
Thank you very much for your help!
Hi, according to docs once cells are disconnected battery would lose some of the data stored in smbus circuit. Does battery manager still work correctly? Which kind of data is still available ( e.g capacity/Wh etc)?
You are genius! First I replaced 6 cell batteries with new ones on my gateway (AS07B41), thought is fine, tryed to check output voltage (nothing). Secondly changed 8 cell batteries on asus (A42-M70), checked voltage in batteries inside was good-14.4V, output voltage (nothing). I thought burned both bms of batteries. I will try as soon as possible. Thank you very much!
Saw the reset on another channel didn’t work maybe cause I didn’t charge up the cells after replace, charging now, that’s a brilliant idea to test with fan or bulb before assembling the battery hope it works this time good job mate.
My results:
After replace the battery cells, the voltage in the connector is equal 0. Then i tried to
touch a wire in the positve (battery cell) to positve (connector) and nothing, tried too with negative and still 0v. Not working to connecting negative to switch, but if i do a jumper between postive from cell to positve from connector, i have 14,60v and i can charge on laptop.
If i remove the wire, nothing work.
great finding!
I had thinkpad t60 batteries who gave an error (fast blinking orange battery) after opening and jumpstarting (just connected the positive battery end to the positive connector) the battery started charging as usual again!
thank you for making this info public!
How I can know the positive connector
They are seven connectors and I searched online for pinout for this battery but no result
If your answer was to digital4expert's comment, you are right. This shouldn't be done without recelling the battery.
If it wasn't:
This battery was already damaged and cells were replaced before the video. Doing the jump starting process to already almost dead battery over and over again will damage the battery more and at some point this method stops working.
I don't think using this method after recelling the battery once every few years will damage the battery pack's internal circuitry.
Can I connect the battery pins directly to the outlet socket so that voltage continues to come out? because if I attach it and then release it, the current will immediately be 0 volts
I watched your video about the battery reset on the laptop batterypack. I did just as you showed. But im still getting that error message that the battery has got a permanent failure and needs replacement.
Let me start from begining...
I have a dell laptop Inspiron 7537 which is like 6-7 yrs old. Battery is dying on me so i planned to Re-cell the battery pack. Got some good cells. Same wattage same chemistry... im replacing all cells. Its a 4 cell battery. Now i hooked all the cells with the correct orientation and soddered it to the battery PCB and checked the voltages. Now as you said in your RUclips video to jumpstart it. I did. But i am not getting the battery to charge it is saying that "This battery has encountered a permanent damage and needs replacement " i understand. Might be the cells i baught are not good. But i checked. All 4 cells are giving out 14.30 volts. Now i tried soddering the pcb back to the old cells that i took from battery. Now when i connect it it says the same "permanent damage error" i tried to jumpstart it as in your video. Again same message. What is that im doing wrong???
Are you getting any voltage at the positive and negative connector pins?
Many advanced protection IC's have functions that detect severe undervoltage and prohibit any attempt to re-charge or to further discharge it. The idea behind that is that deeply overdischarged cells suffer from irreversible damage that decrease cell safety and could cause an internal short-circuit (and spectacular fire) when you continue to use it. The side-effect is that disconnecting cells for replacement triggers this protection and without connecting to the IC and modifying flag responsible for recording such condition you cannot use it anymore. Oh, did I mention that some IC's have provisions to be encrypted/password protected?
...and how do you explain this "jump starting" method worked and unlocked the battery protection IC?
@@suadcokljat1045 This battery protection IC apparently does not have a permanent disable function. Or it could have a provision for that but this function is not used/disabled.
@@mibars The only proper way to unlock the battery that I know is - replace damaged cells and then figure out what battery controler is used and the connect to battery programmer evaluation kit (such as TI EV2200) and using TI software unlock the battery.
@@suadcokljat1045 True. But there are some password protected BMS chips too. Then you may need to completely reflash battery to enable it. And if there was authentication between battery and host device then despite working it will be rejected by host device.
tried this withA41-X550E -- 112-1979H REV A, didn't work after recelling the battery, bummer :'(
If you have found the solution, please let me know. I just changed the cells and it doesn't work
this did not work on Edge 14 battery. nothing happens.
yes, it did work, instead of fan , i connected battery to laptop and with jumper wire started laptop and it started - thanks
Hi, I also have an Asus that is more than 10 years old and the battery controller shows 38%, so it makes me turn off the PC earlier than expected.
With your short circuit did it also reset the charging cycle counter and therefore the total capacity in mA?
Thanks a million for your help you are awesome...... What is the value of the resister used and how is it connected series or paralell. Thanks....
The resistor isn't actually needed. I used it to test if the battery still works with some load connected to it. The fan is also only for testing. It gives nice visual feedback whether the output works or not.
Hi, I have tried above method with no luck.
I have replace the battery cell and then run the HP Battery Check apps, the result :
Cycle count = 343/300
Design Capacity = 2792 mAh
Full Charge Capacity = 1 mAh (0%)
Remaining Capacity = 0 mAh
Current = 0 mAh
Terminal Voltage = 15436 mV
Design Voltage = 14800 mV
Cell Voltage 1 = 3814 mV
Cell Voltage 2 = 3903 mV
Cell Voltage 3 = 3767 mV
Cell Voltage 4 = 3953 mV
is there any way to reset the battery controller lock?
Thank you! Worked for my 2 Lenovo T400s batteries.
Glad I could help!
Hi, thank you. You saved me spending $$ on new laptop!! This method is really working
Did not work for the Lenovo battery LY10P6Y21 I have, I guess the company really made sure to have the bms shutdown when the cells are no longer working properly.
@mitulabattyi Yes. I connected the fan to be able to see when there is voltage in the connector. Resistor is for testing if the battery can handle 1A load.
I have an HP Envy laptop, it has 3 batteries and these have a good voltage of 3.7 volts, but there is no voltage in the terminal block slot, I have tried to do what you do in the video but I am not sure which are the positive slots and the negative.
sadly it didn't work for me. maybe I damaged the protection circuit but when I connected the + of the batteries to the + of the circuit's output it just started to smell burned :/
samething happens to me. hoep there is a fix for this issue
Morjens! This trick did not work for me. My battery was for a Thinkpad X61
I replaced cells on two laptops, different brands. When I charge the cells, the laptop happily uses them. But none of them charge the batteries, HP one says "connected, not charging" and the other one says charging, but it's not.
Will try this tomorrow and see if it solves my irrelevant issue.
Moro!
Haluaisin vaihtaa Thinkpadiin kennot, pitäiskö tämän riittää uudelleen kennotukseen?
Tiedätkö kennojen ohjelmoinnista mitään? Tämä tapahan ei muuta akkuun ohjelmoitua mah määrää suuntaan taikka toiseen? Eli vaikka vaihtaisin kennojen mah määrän suurempaan, niin akun ohjauspiiri käyttää edelleen vanhaa mah määrää?
Onnistuisko sulta Corebootin asennus X230 ja T430 Thinkpadeihin rahaa vastaan?
Moikka!
Tällä menetelmällä sain aikoinaan Thinkpad T40, sekä jonkin uudemmankin Thinkpadin akkukeston palautettua erittäin heikosta siedettävään. Alkuperäisestä akkukestosta jäätiin todennäköisesti vain johtuen siitä, että käytin käytettyjä kennoja.
Alkuperäisen/suunnitellun akkukapasiteetin tieto ei tällä menetelmällä muutu. Todellisen/lasketun akkukapasiteetin tieto päivittyy tietääkseni jossain läppäreissä parin latauksen ja purun jälkeen automaattisesti, joissain taitaa olla akun resetointi-ominaisuus biossissa tai valmistajan sovelluksissa? Tämä todellisen kapasiteetin tietohan vaikuttaa lähinnä akkumittarin paikkaansapitävyyteen. Viimeksi tässä kesällä uudelleenkennotin jonkin vanhan WinXP:tä pyörittävän HP:n läppärin ja siinä ei tarvinnut tehdä mitään akun ohjelmointia tai resetointia. Mittari laski tasaisesti 100%->0% käytön edetessä ja aika-arviokin piti melko hyvin paikkaansa. Tämä siitä huolimatta, että akkukesto muuttui kennotuksen myötä 20min -> 2h.
Sanoisin että kannattaa ensin kokeilla ihan vain uudelleenkennotusta ja tätä "apukäynnistystä" jos ei muuten lähde käyntiin. Jos kaikki pelaa täydellisesti, homma on valmis. Jos akkukestossa tai akkumittarissa on puutteita, suosittelen seuraavaksi etsimään biossista akun resetointia/kalibrointia. Muistaakseni IBM:n / Lenovon läppäreissä tuo ominaisuus oli olemassa...?
"Suunnitellun kapasiteetin" tiedon muuttamisen tarpeesta/vaikutuksesta/muuttamisesti en tiedä. Voi olla että se on vain vertailutietona käyttäjälle tai huoltohenkilölle.
Corebootti on terminä ja konseptina tuttu, mutta en ole sitä koskaan asentanut. En valitettavasti ala harjoittelemaan toisten laitteilla, edes rahaa vastaan. Sorry.
No tulipas taas tarinoitua :) Toivottavasti tarina vastasi kysymyksiisi.
How many ohms?
Most "switches" are located in negative pole because these are done with MOSFETs and N-channel MOSFET's suitable for use on negative pole are cheaper and have lower resistance. If you keep the jumper between negative pole and negative battery terminal you will make it "work" but without any protection! Unless there is some extra protection like self control protector but they are often secondary and does not react to all the conditions that may happen inside (in other words DO NOT DO THIS)
but this trick works in positive side, is the same risk of loose protection system of the bms?
@@estartermanual Yes. no matter if protection is on positive or negative side if you bypass it you make a battery unsafe.
Dell WU946 battery also work by connecting positive end of battery cells and
battery case positive pin.
Yeah. I've used this T40 as my secondary computer, so I have used it only for ~40 hours after this video. I haven't had any problems with this battery after recelling and "jump starting".
Sorry sir, what is your thoughts now plus what are the new experience you have gained
@@longshot4484 good question, is still working the bat?
Dell D600 battery (C1295) With a jumper between Ground and the SYS PRESENT pin I can measure voltage and discharge the battery using a R/C charger /discharger. However I can not charge at the out most pins. No current flow goes into the battery.
If I put the battery back in the laptop it will charge it full again. Would you know if I need another jumper to allow the battery to accept charging
Hi, thanks for the video. I've got a Dell laptop battery that is almost new but stopped working suddenly after my laptop was using too much resource. I suspect the battery got a violent discharge which makes it now completely inoperative (an orange LED is blinking continually and no charge is possible.)
From what I read elsewhere, it is possible to revive any "dead" lithium battery, by giving it a "boost charge" of some seconds or minutes. If you understand my problem, could you explain me in a few words how I can proceed once I manage to open the battery pack? I'm fully aware of the dangers of blowing cells if the poles are mixed up, but willing to do it very carefully.
Thanks!
+Pierre Christen Usually reviving over discharged cells is done by charging them with constant current of few hundred milliamps (with voltage limit set below 4.2V) until they reach 3V, then continuing the charging process regular way.
Battery packs have low voltage limits for reason. Please search for dangers of charging over discharged cells before deciding whether to do it or not. Good luck, hope you'll be able to fix your battery!
+Hugatry's HackVlog , thanks for your rapid answer. does it have to be done each cell individually or can it be all together within the battery pack?
+Pierre Christen It would be best to do it separately (each cell or cell pair individually) or with charger that can balance the cells.
If you know someone who is into RC-cars, ask if they have a charger and if they could help you with the charging.
+Hugatry's HackVlog Hi again, just to let you know I did it with partial success. What I did is open my Dell Latitude E5410 battery. It was very difficult and I spoiled the contacts in the process, which makes it now unusable. The positive is I was able to revive the two cells that had about zero volt by slowly charging them with an old 5v 350mhA Sony charger. It took time as I did it to both the cells together, but they now produce power! I now intend to open an old spare battery pack which is very weak and attempt to move the "good" cells to it, without spoiling it this time. Thanks for your support!
I had an X60 battery that was completely drained (0V on each cell) after years of disuse and - probably for this reason - displayed an "irreparable damage" error message. I was able to revive the individual cells by carefully recharging them. Nevertheless, the procedure described here did not work, the battery still provides no output and causes the same error message.
im in the same boat. cells are fine but PCB says battery is broken -.-
another year, another battery.. there is a full charge present but protection circuit wont allow the laptop to boot/get any juice.
To really test if your batteries are the problem versus there circuitry come back to each cell that you fully charged and see if they slowly discharge over time. If so if so that sell was probably the culprit.
Not working for me. Switch is on +, by connecting wire to + on battery and - on pcb, there is 11,6V. Any idea? Acer 7630EZ
It is the best video I have seen on the subject
I confirm! Works on battery pack Lenovo g555 + to + and from 0v to conector now i 12v.
GREAT! Always nice to hear that.
Hi! I have that battery to but it doesn't work for me! Can you explain me what did you do? If i test continuity between + of battery and + of the terminal its ok. And from + of the battery to the - of the terminal its OK too!
what about shorted the 2 pinsic counter charging time IC?. is it related?
Hi bro this is work for me but in few second off again, can i jumper and solder this pin to +?
Hi. COol information. Sadly I tried on an LG S425 with a SQU-1007 battery, no success. :( Maybe damaged it, or it does not reset this way. Tried both - - and + +
hi i have a Sony Vaio ux laptop. There was a some problem in the battery that makes the 5200 mah battery pack run out of power in only 10 minitues. Also battery inducator jumps to 100 percent when its near %30-34. İ removed old cells and put 2 cells inside the case and soldered them. After i plug the battery to laptop, it says "No Battery Detected" i tried putting old cells again and it didint work. When i mesure the output voltage of the connection terminals its like 0.23 v. İt dosent give more than that. I cant buy or change the PCB or buy a new pack beacuse its too old that none of the parts are on the internet or repair services.Its also so expensive compared to USD. i dont want to spend 58x5.80 Money on a battery its almost 300 TL i can buy a new laptop with that whatever i need to know what is the problem on my battery PCB.
Hi, are you still able to get some information from the battery after cells were disconnected? It seems that some infos are stored in volatile memory of the battery itself, so unless you find a way to provide energy to the inernal chip during the operation, those infos will be definitely lost once you change cells.
Sorry, I don't remember whether I checked the data on battery's memory or not. If the memory was cleared, it didn't contain anything vital, as the battery worked after recelling without problems.
Ok, I confirm that the procedure works on a t420 6cell battery ( 55+). No data loss apparently. Thank you a lot.
I have a 55+. How do you open the case?
Hello, I have something to ask
My ThinkPad Edge battery show poor condition on thinkpad power manager. Before I change my battery i want to try to fix it, maybe it just need to replace the cell of the battery. So I open it and found all my 6 battery is in good condition, 3,9 VDC, all of them.
Using my battery charger for 18650 batt, and it show the battery is good.
Then i reconnect the battery to the ic, and found there's no voltage on the pin.
I do like you do in this video, still no working, I also try with the negative side.
Any idea what went wrong ?
+Nico S First, thank you for commenting.
The power manager shows the battery's condition as poor, because it (somewhat) works and can be charged, but it will go empty quicker than new one. It is also possible that battery with poor condition cannot give enough current for heavy load.
So reading a voltage of the cells doesn't confirm that the cells are in good condition.
I'm sorry, but don't have any other tips to share for "jump starting" a laptop battery. I hope you'll find some kind of solution for your battery problem.
I think my battery ic is broken, because it's still not working with another battery.
Thanks for your help
Do I have to use a resistor? if I don't use it, does it have an effect with the batr, for jumpers, + on the PCB - is it really like that
Sorry I missed your comment. No, the resistor is not needed. It was only to test the battery’s operation. Momentarily connecting jumper wire from battery cell’s positive to positive in the battery pack’s connector is all that was needed in my case. For some batteries it is negative to negative. (NEVER connect jumper between positive and negative... Fire hazard!)
I have no idea how to charge laptop battery packs without laptop. The charging circuitry is usually inside the laptop, so you CAN NOT connect laptop's charger directly to the terminals of the battery pack.
But if you charge the battery pack with the correct laptop, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use it to power flash lights or other circuits (which can handle the output voltage of the battery pack). You'll have to measure the voltage constantly to detect when the battery is empty.
Actually you can charge laptop battery by cell it self one by one. But it require a lot of attention on metering the raising of charging voltage. For example if you use 5 volt charger on 18650 battery, the maximum raising charging voltage will be 4.55volt.
I tried it but once i remove the wire the volt gose from 14 to 0
Any soulotion,؟
Any similar tricks for 45n1043 battery (found in thinkpads) ?
i've measured the cells, they had acceptable voltage when i got it (3.4V). I also charged the batteries fully via external li-ion charger. That way in windows i get 100% charge, but it doesn't actually power the laptop (shuts off completely)
Hi! Im from Argentina, so Im sorry for my bad english. Can you help me here? I changed the cells from my lonovo s10 batery (it has only 3 cells) but never could make it work again. However I try your method and it works, except that the fan stops working when I pull out the cable. Am I doing something wrong? What if I plug the batery and I keep the cable doing the short-circuit?
There might be something broken in the PCB of the battery, if your battery works with the "jumper cable" connected but not without it. I do not recommend leaving the jumper cable there for more than few seconds. It bypasses the protection circuit, so it has no sense of power going in (=charging) or out (=powering the laptop). There is fire hazard if you try to charge battery without a protection circuit.
So DISCONNECT the wire after few seconds and DO NOT keep it connected when the battery is plugged in.
hugatry thanks for the tip. Can you help me with that? I mean, in case that it's something broken in the PCB
Nicolas Figlioli you could try measuring the individual cells with a multimeter (if you have one) and see if all of them are giving atleast 3V. If one of them gives little less than 3V, that might be a problem. In that case, you'd need to charge the cells with a charger designed to charge individual cells. If you don't have a multimeter and the cells are new, we can assume that they are charged enough and the problem is in the PCB.
Sorry but no, I don't think there is anything I can do to fix broken PCB of the battery.
If I rebuild a t61 pack, will this trick make it work?
Dear
Do you know where is the positive connector at that battery please
Hello sir, please help me
I did replace the cells and the bms connector is not showing any voltage, I also did the method you shown ,
The fan working when giving direct voltage but the battery /bms is not resetting
Plz help me
Thats my sitiuation .. toshiba bms .. that method not work with me
@@-magdygomha6130 I think that's a programming in the EPROM to. Block the voltage when charge cycles are complete on previous cells
I have many MacBook batteries like this. Thanks for uploading.
Not working on delk
Very cool. I have some batteries I bought on ebay that I think were made with poor cells. I'm going to try changing them out and try this trick.
Actually, I might try this with the original batteries first just to verify that it does work.
asus EEE 1001HA. This trick does not work for me. I have tried add the fan on positive+negative output of the battery-pack. And than over-bridge positive side of batteries to positive side of the fan. The fan started work. After that I interrupted connection to do fan from batteries and the fan stopped spinning.... In netbook the pack does not work. Any idea? CMOS battery is changed and in the system works well. Thank you
+d ddf How long did you keep the positive side of the batteries and the positive side of the connector connectd? Like you can see at 1:05 in my video, I needed to keep it connected around one second. Quick connection wasn't enough to "start" the internal controller.
If voltage of each cell is over 3V and keeping the connection for 1-2s before letting go doesn't help, there is a change that there is something wrong with the controller board. I can't be sure, but that would be my guess.
Thank you for your info. Of course, I had it connected for more seconds(20?). It does no work for me...
It looks like it must, somehow, be resetting the control board. I wish I had found this a couple of years ago. I tried to recell a battery but got no output. I assumed I had damaged something and did not persevere due to being afraid of the fire hazard involved in putting a defective battery in my laptop.
Yeah, there is a mosfet between the cells and the output of the battery pack. When that mosfet becomes non-conductive, it won't just cut the power from the connector, but also from the protection circuit. This can happen due too low voltage or some other thing that the protection circuit detects as a problem.
When the power has been cut from the protection circuit, it can't make the mosfet conductive again, without power (and the mosfet is blocking it from getting power from the cells).
With method in the video, we are powering the protection circuit long enough to let it make the mosfet conductive again.This should work, if the problem has been fixed (fe. dead cells replaced).
It seems I successfully waked up a tablet BMS with this method :D Thanks a lot!! :D
Is this battery still working safely for you?
Hey i used this method but my battery laptop still not working
Instead of a jumper, you might want to try jump starting it from the outside of the battery with a current limited 12V power supply. Pretty much any 12Vdc power supply with a 100 ohm resistor in series should be enough.
I have a hs04 hp laptop battery i did the same thing but nothing happens please help me
What is the Value of the resistor used to connect the fan to the battery terminal or to the circuit control board terminal.
Resistor and fan are not related to jump starting. Resistor and fan are not related to each other. I don't remember what value resistor I used and it doesn't matter, because it is not needed for jump starting. Only the wire I used is needed.
If this does not work on my battery, what can I do then?
There is a possibility that battery has protection which disables the output permanently, if any dramatic fault (like disconnected cell, over discharge) happens. I've had couple of laptops that had non-resettable fuse, which the protection IC burned to disable charging/discharging potentially dangerously faulty cells.
I might not be able to help you, but leave a comment telling which laptop model you have and maybe someone else knows about it and chimes in.
@@Hugatry Thank you for the reply, I kind of gave up on the laptop battery and just dismantled it.
didn´t work for me
thanks a lot
Thank you for posting this!
I have a dead thinkpad battery that I will try to revive following your technique.
It is kind of a good thing that you didn't keep the battery looking like new when you opened it. The damaged case will be a reminder that the battery is modified and should be handled with extra caution.
Nice job bro..I am same problem like you..but my battery is WDXOR Battery inside of Dell 5567
rating is 11.4v
Thank you for the very informative upload. If you could give the part no. of the controller IC that your battery has, it would be very helpful. For example in an ASUS laptop that I own the battery's controller is the bq20z45 from Texas Instruments. Thank you.
Unfortunately I don't have this laptop anymore so I can't check the controllers part no. What I have is broken battery from Acer laptop (can't remember exact model, but it was 5+ year old Travelmate) and it had bq2084 and bq29312 on the PCB. Thanks for commenting and sharing info about the controller.
+Hugatry's HackVlog Did you rebuild the battery from the Acer? If yes did you apply the same method for the jump start?
(by the way, to give the full info, the part no. of the battery from the ASUS laptop that I mention above is the A32-K53) Thank you for the immediate response!
No I didn't rebuild it. I got it some time ago from a friend who bought a new battery for his laptop instead of getting that old one recelled. Now it's waiting to be recycled. So sorry, this wasn't too useful info regarding which ICs are used in batteries that implement the "power switch" -type under voltage protection...
will it work on ideapad Z460 battery? I got bunch of them.
I need help please , when I connected the positive end of the battery to the p+ pin it sparks but
connected the the positive end of the battery to p - pin but nothing
No success
Battry is Hp pro6
Hp battery for 4440s
Please urgently need help
hello! I’m from hungary, sorry for my bad english. I have a question. Why do I need the power resistor?
You don't.
hi i just tried , its not working. i am using 6 v motor along with 10 ohm resistor. i am getting smoke from resistor. if i connect or short from positive to positive motor is spinning, if i connect it for long time smoke is just appeared. how can i try.. please help me
Hi. If you short positive from the cells to positive of the output connector and motor starts spinning, you are doing it right. Those are the correct pins. The resistor will consume about 10W depending on voltage of the battery. If it doesn't have cooling it will get hot if connected to the battery for a long time. The resistor and the motor aren't needed, you could try without them and measure the output with a multimeter.
If the output doesn't stay on (=motor stops spinning) when the short is removed, then this method shown in the video probably doesn't work.
There are two things that you could try:
1) Remove the motor and the resistor. Short positive to positive for a second or two. Remove the short and see if the output is on.
Or
2) Measure voltage of the cells, make sure each of them is above 3 volts. If any of them is less than that, controller board might switch the output off because of that.
Good luck!
Hi there!
I have short circuited (just for a second) the positive and negative conncections and the output is 0V.
What if i wont dissasemble the battery and i use an external suply to revive?
The burning question is:
* Has the manufacturers of battery packs deliberately installed a 'usage life' clock in the battery pack and what you are doing is resetting the clock?'
* If so, why?
* Is this a safety feature?
* Is this an economic feature?
I don't expect you to be able to answer the last few questions.....but it would be interesting to know.
Kind regards Al
Good questions!
I've heard rumors about programmed maximum charging cycles on laptop batteries, but I haven't found any proof of that. In all of the dead laptop batteries I've had there has been atleast one dead battery cell in them. So no signs of "preprogrammed death".
I know there is a counter that counts the charging cycles and that is stored in EEPROM, which holds it's content even without power... It has to be reprogrammed to change the content. Recelling and "jump starting" won't reset the counter.
Lets say some random manufacturers put the magical maximum charging cycle count in their batteries. Why would they do that, why they don't determine the battery's condition based measured capacity (real capacity decreases from original capacity over time)?
One reason that comes to my mind too is money. If the battery dies after couple of years, many users would think "Oh well, that battery lasted for years. I'll just buy a new one". Some might even buy a new laptop, because specs of the new laptop are so much better than the three year old's.
Like I said, those were good questions, but I haven't found any reliable information about programmed max charging count.
This is called "planned obsolescence". Inkjet printer makers have been doing it for a while. Apply the same logic to batteries and it's likely happening there as well.
Alan Defoe
I know for a fact that some batteries do have a management chip which controls the charger. This includes the maximum charge cycles and an age feature measuring how many days the device has been in service.
I can't remember the chip number use offhand, but all of the details are in the datasheet.
Electro i know right our printer at work is so full of **** every time it runs out of toner you can shake it and it flys everywhere and it will NOT allow you to print period... I think that sort of practice should be illegal and if they feel they must have it, there should be a option to turn it off.
codemiesterbeats I agree. It's outright illegal. I would call it a form of cyber-terrorism. Terrorism on our wallets.
Put into laptop
"There we go I just saved 50 bucks because I didn't have to buy a new battery" xD
I have lenovo g-450 i also re-celled the battery and i have the same problem no output from the battery connected you here short circuited the +ve point to some point on pc board in my ckt what is the point where i have to short
what is the name or type or value of the resistor used for the jump start
For jump starting, I used simple wire.
Resistor and fan are not needed.
Hii... I trye this metod on lenovo g550 battery who was loked. The batery unloked but after first charge hi stop charging agein. After one year i open battery again, but desolder all 3 cell packs and i charge cells with rc helicopter charger turnigi to 3.7v and 3 cell packs. Before i balance cell to this voltage, they vas 3.54v 3.78v 4.02v very disbalanced pack!!! After one night balancing and make 3 cells to same 3.7v voltage i solder cells again to controler board and now evretyng work fine again, 2 days... Make and two battery calibration wth lenovo pover managment and batery capaciti is corect regonise now!
so... Balance veryyyyy good cells, solder again, unluck power bord with video say and good luck!
will this work if the battery is still working but only last 15 min on a charge
Sorry for late reply, I must have missed the notification.
No, this doesn't work in your case. This might only work if the battery pack doesn't give any output (0 volts when measured with multimeter, no action at all when trying to power on the laptop).
In your case the battery cells are just slowly dying, they are so old... I'd say it's time for a new battery.
+Hugatry's HackVlog New battery or new cells?
+Nick Stavrou If battery doesn't last longer than (for example) 15 minutes, new cells should fix it. Method demonstrated in this video might be needed to restart the battery after replacing the cells.
Buying a whole new battery (instead of just the cells) is of course simplest and maybe safest way, but can cost little bit more.
are you by any chance from Finland?
Hi. What value of resistro is?
Keşke bağlantıları nasıl yaptığınızı daha detaylı göstetseydiniz fan dışında ne bağlandığını göremiyorum
How to identify the pozitive pin ?
Positive to what??
thanks for the video but I tried mine ,it is only when I Connet the wire the fan is rolling, when I remove it ,still it remained dormant. . what should I do??
have you got the solution?
Thanks for sharing the tip.
Awsome! It really works!
I've recovered my "bricked" battery after replacing blown thermal fuse. Lenovo SL500 (T60 type battery, replacement).
Thanks!
Hi what happen before battery die on you, over discharging? I own SL500 too.
Actually don't know, probably wrong ventilation -> overheating, plus charging in this time. Laptop was really hot.
My battery use to have "good" at the time life and overheating wasn't issue for me. One night when I watching a movie on it , I forgot to plug the power jack , no warning messages for low % left my SL500 just power off. I guess in my case after so long cell are dead too. Did you replace any cells or it was just a fuse? Thanks in regards I didn't expect quick answer.
In my case it was just a fuse. Hard to say what's in your case. Laptop batteries have protection from over discharging, so it should be rather hard to kill it in this way (I think). My SL500 was turning off without warnings when battery was just old (even if in the system it was "good").
Anyway I think will be fun in free time to play with my old battery just from curiosity. Thanks for you time, do you still have your SL500 what version it is the nVidia GPU or Intel GMA?
Hi!
Is the fan parallel connected to the resistor?
Yaaa🤔
@pramuk9998 Yeah, I quickly shorted the positive side of the cell pack and the positive pin of the connector. Unfortunately I don't know which pin is positive in g450's battery's connector.
4 what is the power resistor connected 2 d fan..?
In this case it is a protective measure. In this video you got a 6 cell battery system. They are connected 2 in parallel and then in series. You get a voltage if you multiply 3 x 3.7V = 11.1V, But in a real case scenario a fully charged 18650 battery drops out a voltage nearly 4.2V. So you get a output voltage of 12.6V ! Any normal fan can handle max. 12V. In this case the resistors purpose is to drop down under 12V to avoid a fan damage or worse.
Didnt work for me, i have lenovo n200 and i changed the batteries and i dont get anything at the output!!!
Sorry to hear that. Do you get an output while the wire is connected? You can check this by connecting a multimeter/fan/led+resistor or something like that to the output, while trying this jump starting.
If not, the protection circuit might have switch in the negative side. I'd try this jump starting method with negative side of the battery pack and a negative side (-) of the output.
Yes i get an output when i connect the wire but when i disconnect it i lose the output. The resistor is necessary?
The resistor and fan aren't necessary for this method. Fan is just an visual feedback, showing when there is voltage in the battery's output. Resistor acts as a load, so I know if the battery can give couple of ampers of current. The resistor was there just to prove that the battery is able to give couple of ampers, without shutting down. I could have done this without the fan and the resistor with same results.
Check my last response to Nicolas' comment. I hope you can find some kind of solution for your problem.
hugatry Thanks, i have heard that disconnecting the PCB in some laptops can lose the information stored in an IC in the circuit and it wont work again! is that true?
Well, technically that could be possible. But I believe that usually the information is stored in EEPROM, which will store the information even without the power. Disconnecting the cells/PCB will cut the power from the controller in the PCB and therefore it will disable the output (this can many times be fixed with jump starting method).
Battery might have a fuse in the PCB, one that can't be reset by jump starting, but instead needs replacing. Or there might be something else broken in the PCB.
All of the laptop batteries aren't equal. Some might have memory that loses the information when not powered and they might need reprogramming or something, after reconnecting the cells. I haven't heard about that kind of laptop battery, but who knows... maybe they exist. PCB in the laptop's battery might be small, but the circuit is complicated. There are many things that can make the battery dead.
I have to say that I'm not recommending you to do anything. Getting a new battery is the safest way to fix your problem.
I believe method mentioned in therealjammit's comment MIGHT work. If you end up trying it, it should work with quickish tap (~1s). Keep in mind that batteries might explode or catch fire if you mess with power supplys and batteries.
Thanks.
Hi, thanks for this video, i just repaired an old macbook g5 battery and this showed me how to reset the battery controller!! :)
+Daniel Welsh Thanks for your feedback. Hearing success stories like this is awesome!
Hugatry's HackVlog *you are Great 👍 💖👍🇵🇰*
yeah that works but do u know how long that will work untile u finally damage the battery or untile ur method stops working....
Thanks
awesome works with an asus battery as well
Thank you ! you save my batterry :-) HP NC4200