UNDERFLOOR HEATING - DIY Retrofit System
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2014
- Here is a look at how we have made a start on our underfloor heating system in the Kitchen. This is part one as we are yet to commission the system and install the zone controller, etc.
We used the Polypipe floating floor panel range and topped it with Cellecta's dry screed board which had proven to be a great product and looking forward to seeing in action with the UFH.
Music by Jahzzar - freemusicarchive.org/music/Jah... 
Хобби
Thank you for filming while you work. You never seem to get frustrated.
Nice job! Looks like a very nice system.
Love your videos. Have you considered that slightly imperfectly laying the boards could be beneficial? Leaving a tiny gap all the way round would help with expansion issues? Unless the cement boards have next to no expansion?
Think this would work for underfloor heating in a van im converting into a camper? Going to install a C top diesel water heater and was considering heating systems.
Nice, thank you
Hi can you tell me where you get the tongue & groove cement boards from,thanks :)
You make this look so easy. Please can I ask how long it took you to prep the floor all the way through to finishing? Just thinking how many days we might need. TIA
Can you give us a link for the cement board you used?
Hi,
Can you tell me what the insulation product name is and the pipes please as that is exactly what i am after for my project, i got the name of the screed board. DO you have info on the pump and or manifold you mention below as well.
Many thanks
Thanks for the video! Is there a reason you used the acoustic board instead of sceed? Anything I've seen/read has been covered using screed.
We could have put a slab down however with the insulation and then an additional screed it would have caused issues with floor heights and doors. If a new build then we would definitely go that route however in a retrofit the dry screed boards are perfect. TRC
Hi, great video, though you didn't mention pressurising to check for leaks before installation the cement board on top. Any reason why?
Because at the time we didn't! We actually had no boiler and floor wasn't connected up for many months. Fortunately all was fine and we have also monitored perfomace with thermal imaging. I would have been far more proactive to test if we had poured a screed over and of course would always do so in the future. :-)
Hi @The Restoration Couple,
I'm in the process of renovating my property and your videos have been super helpful. Did you get UFH for the whole house or just one of the rooms?
I've got a 1930's semi with suspended wooden flooring and was considering getting wet UHF. I noticed in one of your video's you also have suspended wooden flooring which you were insulating. Did you get UFH in that room as well? I've had a few people tell me its only worth getting UFH where you have concrete flooring (i.e. if getting a new rear extension) and not to bother with the existing parts of the house which is all suspended flooring. What's your experience?
We only did UFH on the solid kitchen floor. Other suspended floors we just insulated and used radiators. In an old house like ours there is no way that UFH would be sufficient alone so you would need radiators anyway. In the kitchen it does a good job but is supplemented by a small rad. In a new build with insulated solid floor then definitely worth it.
Amir Ali
A
Y
I like the project - it has inspired me to do the same in my place. I live in Ireland and could get these probably here or have it shipped across from UK. Would you have shops websites handy where I could purchase the concrete slabs, EPS insulation sheets and the metal plates. Just couldn’t find anything like it here in Ireland.
Do you have only this as a heating in that room, or you have additional source of heating like radiators? Or maybe you have it linked and working together?
Thanks. Mike
Quick google found these links which i think I used, hope that helps.
help.tradingdepot.co.uk/plumbing/polypipe/under-floor-heating-system-for-floating-floors/
www.builderdepot.co.uk/cellecta-deckfon-screedboard-20-dry-screed-panel-1200mm-x-600mm-x-20mm.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4_DABRC1tuPSpqXjxZwBEiQAhMIp6_nA3vWP2lrWJUr64Ea-u9ILIz5v6qbZjaUngQGZg2caAl0Y8P8HAQ
i not see much of these products on south ireland, did you have to go UK,,
I have not started my project, as need more funds due to full house heating upgrade. So, still chipping away to the savings account. I had a look at these websites and they are good with prices. I would say it will be similar price for the same thing in IRE if you find provider. Mike
Michal K yep i thought of doing the whole house and taking out concrete floors 1961 bungalow but the money is my problem, its stupid to do just one room, still weather is milder.tks
Hey, could you give us the name of the insulation board used please?
Looking to retrofit in a 200 year old stone house and don't want to add too much height to the existing floor. Thanks!
+Lee Phillips It is by polypipe, think they were 1.2mx1.2m. Works well, I would say that if you intend to tile make sure the floor below them is dead flat as you will get a slight deflection otherwise. Fine for our vinyl or wood but I imagine grouting may crack with movement.
+The Restoration Couple - Amazing, thanks guys!
Hi . Its me again. Pipe that You used for UFH. Was it standard polypipe PB or some sort of "lay flat" one.
It was polypipe barrier pipe 15mm. You can get a extra flexible version but you then can not use the offcuts for regular plumbing as they are ufh only. We fires up the ufh for the first time last week and it is great. Will do a follow up vid soon.
What about building controls?
Have you done a follow on video? I couldn't find it. What's your review of the underfloor heating system 6 years on?
I’ve mentioned it in a couple of videos but no proper follow on. Floor has been great and the heating has been sufficient for the whole room even with our solid walls. There is a little bit of bounce in an area where the old floor was not flat enough but only slight, wouldn’t want to tile it though just in case.
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks for the reply. BTW your videos are great. We've just bought an old converted stables that is in need of some sympathetic modernisation and we're getting a lot of inspiration from your channel. 👍🏻
Hello. I am about to buy this retro fit. Can you tell: would you done anything different if you could go back? How does this perform in winter? Do you think you have lots of heat loss down to the slab?
Hi Tom, If you have an uninsulated slab at the moment then the 50mm insulation is a must. There will probaby always be some heat loss down, ideally you could put a layer of celotex under the EPS however this would bring your floor level up by 100mm so not practical. I'm afraid we are yet to connect up the manifold/pump etc so it is not in full use yet. However we do have the flow and return from the central heating passing back through two of the channels and the floor heats up very quickly and holds heat well after so once the whole floor is running it will be great. The main benefit we have noticed is that even with the UFH not running yet, the addition of the 50mm insulation alone makes the floor much warmer than the ice cold slab that was there before. Will do a follow up vid once installed. Hope that helps. TRC
TheRestorationCouple
Thank you for replying.
Yes. Slab is uninsulated. In my home country 100mm is minimum. But England is wormer slightly in winter.
Was wondering to place under those 50mm panels this aluminium bubble insulation for radiant loss (something like they place behind radiators or in the lofts).
I live in York in a standard 2bed semi. Not a big place.
What is your wall insulation thickness?
One important thing what flow temperature did you set in your UFH?? and do you have gas boiler? if yes - what sort of controlers/programmer (termostats) do you use?
Did you use manifold with 3way mixing valve and pump?
Would the bubble insulation be ok under the weight of the floor? Our walls a 500mm solid stone, however we have used lime hemp in some rooms which helps. Flow temp for the UFH will be around 55-60C for now, once the thermal store is in then the temp will be lower and on for longer. Oil boiler at the moment but hoping to install biomass at some point. We have ordered a single zone pump blender, and plan to have a motorised valve to make it independent from the radiators. Hope that helps. TRC
The Restoration Couple is 100mm insulation the minimum in the UK under building regs?
@@TheRestorationCouple Hi! Great video, found it really useful. Looks like some great products you have chosen to use and I think I'll copy your method for our kitchen :-) May I ask what controller / manifold set you decided to use? Was this in the same kit as the pipes etc? Are you happy with the system since you installed it? Does the boiler have to run all the time to keep the floor at a stable temp? Thanks, ben
Is the system any good?
Still working great every day. A nice flat subfloor is key as where we left a slight 'hump' in the original floor you feel a very slight bounce but on the whole it was a great option.
Thanks for the reply. I've just got this system put in about a week ago but not connected to the manifold yet. I wanted to ask you my sub floor is chipboard and was pretty level so it went on nice now I need to know what shall I put on top of this system. Can i use a 12mm backer board coz I'm tiling kitchen and bathroom then the rest is going to be laminate.
Thanks
50mm? heh this should be min 150mm of polystyrene
Please don’t start doing those thumbnails with “shocked” expressions. Your videos are great without it.