Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos. The strips start out as 3/16" thick. What is the approximate thickness after all the outer and inner scraping is completed?.
Thanks. www.fibreglast.com/product/commercial-electric-cutter/Supplies_Tools_Scissors_Cutters_Fabric_Aids is another link. Interesting they say they can cut kevlar. My experience is that even with an angle grinder I had problems.
Jamestown Distributors also the EC Cutter. I have cut Kevlar with them (in a coming episode). Just the raw cloth, and a brand-new blade set that has never cut fiberglass. I also have a set of sheers that I use for Kevlar that are only for Kevlar (CF is OK) and are never used on glass. I can cut the saturated cloth with a utility knife once it has reached the leathery stage. Sharp edge tools will also cut the cloth after the resin has hardened.
I've never seen electric scissors! But why didn't you let the coaming cure flat on a sheet of acetate or something smooth, and wait for the glass to get partially cured before simply trimming with a razor blade? Love that blonde wood on the hull, and those light accents are going to be sweet.
I could have tried letting the glass cure while flat on a surface but, I first would have had to do something to assure the coaming was actually flat to the surface. If it wasn't quite flat the cured thickness would be uneven and it would be a pain to clean up. The easiest way to hold it down flat would be to put another flat thing on top of it (with some release material such as acetate between) to clamp it all down flat. The best option would be a plate of glass which would allow me to see through to make sure nothing got messed up while placing the weight on top. Since the primary reason for wrapping it like this was to get glass around the outer edge, I would want to be sure that the pressure didn't squeeze the glass out away from the edge. The primary reason I didn't do any of this, is because I didn't think of it at the time. The secondary reason, is I don't have the plate glass or other flat surface of acetate.
Enjoying this build as the microBootlegger Sport is one of my favourites of your designs, I would like to ask about the woodstain and whether you've ever had any problems with other kinds of stain reacting adversely with the epoxy, I'm thinking of water based ones which are far easier to get where I live. Thanks for the videos they are very informative.
I have not tried water based stains. I think the compatibility should be no problem. I have heard some stories about the color changing radically when epoxy is applied, so you should test the stain on the wood you are using and apply the layup you intend to use to be sure you won't be surprised.
*Smiles*.........Next we do one in balsa wood, and carbon fiber. = )
I came here to learn about strip building I kayak and I'm learning a lot about glass work as well. What weight cloth do you use? Another great video.
I primarily use 4-ounce cloth
I always eager to view your next video. great wood working techniques.
Excellent as always!!!
Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos. The strips start out as 3/16" thick. What is the approximate thickness after all the outer and inner scraping is completed?.
What tool did you use to cut the fibre cloth from the coming? the yellow electric one. Thanks
it is an EC Cutter Electric Scissors: amzn.to/2EYFlVm
Thanks. www.fibreglast.com/product/commercial-electric-cutter/Supplies_Tools_Scissors_Cutters_Fabric_Aids is another link.
Interesting they say they can cut kevlar. My experience is that even with an angle grinder I had problems.
Jamestown Distributors also the EC Cutter. I have cut Kevlar with them (in a coming episode). Just the raw cloth, and a brand-new blade set that has never cut fiberglass. I also have a set of sheers that I use for Kevlar that are only for Kevlar (CF is OK) and are never used on glass.
I can cut the saturated cloth with a utility knife once it has reached the leathery stage. Sharp edge tools will also cut the cloth after the resin has hardened.
I've never seen electric scissors! But why didn't you let the coaming cure flat on a sheet of acetate or something smooth, and wait for the glass to get partially cured before simply trimming with a razor blade?
Love that blonde wood on the hull, and those light accents are going to be sweet.
I could have tried letting the glass cure while flat on a surface but, I first would have had to do something to assure the coaming was actually flat to the surface. If it wasn't quite flat the cured thickness would be uneven and it would be a pain to clean up.
The easiest way to hold it down flat would be to put another flat thing on top of it (with some release material such as acetate between) to clamp it all down flat.
The best option would be a plate of glass which would allow me to see through to make sure nothing got messed up while placing the weight on top. Since the primary reason for wrapping it like this was to get glass around the outer edge, I would want to be sure that the pressure didn't squeeze the glass out away from the edge.
The primary reason I didn't do any of this, is because I didn't think of it at the time. The secondary reason, is I don't have the plate glass or other flat surface of acetate.
A perfectly reasonable answer! Getting the glass wrapping the edge was primary.
Enjoying this build as the microBootlegger Sport is one of my favourites of your designs, I would like to ask about the woodstain and whether you've ever had any problems with other kinds of stain reacting adversely with the epoxy, I'm thinking of water based ones which are far easier to get where I live. Thanks for the videos they are very informative.
I have not tried water based stains. I think the compatibility should be no problem. I have heard some stories about the color changing radically when epoxy is applied, so you should test the stain on the wood you are using and apply the layup you intend to use to be sure you won't be surprised.
:-) ;-)