Last week I had to take a couple days off from working in the shop, so I'll need to take break from releasing videos to keep things on track. The next video should be released Wednesday or Thursday.
The episodes have still been coming out faster than I can watch them. This is another A+ one, both in content and editing. As someone else mentioned, the clock is very handy. This was the first time I really paid attention during the video, I was just wondering how long some operations were taking overall and the clock provided the answer directly. You are continually raising the bar in your videos. Thanks again.
Looking stupendous. I’ve always enjoyed this stage in my own work when you finally get to cut away the excess glass and appreciate the effort as it all begins to come together. It’s a time to catch a “second wind” seeing light at the end of the project. Of course the best part no doubt is marrying both halves together into one. Hope your finding moments to step back and enjoy your work as you go. Cheers.
Great insight to wetting out the Carbon Kevlar ! I had my share of troubles, and you addressed the same problems ! There is always Next time ! Thanks Nick ! Another great video !
Amazing. On my canoe the temperature, as I noted in a previous post, was way too cold compared to your standards. We are always talking about "peanut butter" when preparing fillets, I was trying to get "honey" to wet out my fiber glass. The thought of warming my mix or having my shop up to 85-90 degrees F never crossed my mind. My garage/wood shop was 65 degrees F and outside it was -10 degrees F. If I had waited until early August in Minnesota the outcome would have taken a comparatively short time and quality of outcome remarkably superior. I should have waited. As it turned out it was nearly August by the time I finished sanding! Ha, ha...almost not an exaggeration. ;)
Do you have any advice for sanding kevlar? I have some on my boat I need to fair, and I've had some friends warn me that they screwed up some kevlar trying to sand it
Curious how much you feel that the carbon/kevlar cloths adds? Also, although you didn't you can apply multiple layers for more strength? I am planning stages of building a small boat that I would like to use in a river off the ocean so if ocean is mild would like to take out there and want to make sure the hull can handle any waves while moving.
I have a question, I am building a project using carbon/kevlar fabric. I heard that you can not sand kevlar as it will have shreds (due to puncture resistance). How to you go about sanding it (or some other methods) so that it leaves a smooth edge after buffing.
Kevlar can be sanded, but doing so tends to raise fibers that leave a fuzzy surface. I have found that continuing with finer and finer grits of sandpaper will cut back the fuzz and eventually produce a smooth surface. You can also apply more resin over the fuzzy surface to harden the fibers which allows further sanding and shaping. A combination of sanding and resin coats should work to produce a smooth edge.
I know you have successfully done vacuum infusion on carbon cloth for the interior of a hull, which results in a much lighter and stronger composite, so why did you do this as a hand layup?
Because it is WAAAAY easier to do a hand layup. A hand layup of CF or CF/K is a fun upgrade that just about anyone with experience with fiberglass can fairly easily adjust to. The vacuum infusion needs a lot of different tools, more materials and way more time and attention to detail.
How important is it to use carbon or carbon/Kevlar cloth on the interior, or at all? Is this necessary for the structural integrity of the kayak, or is this simply something to help increase stability in rough waters?
Jacob Seibold A reinforcing fabric is required, but it does not need to be exotic like Kevlar or carbon. A standard fiberglass cloth reinforcement would be plenty. Since the cedar strips are only 3/16” thick they don’t have a lot of strength on their own. When combined with the fabric reinforcement, you get a very rugged material.
Thank you. I would like to know more about the use of these materials vs fiberglass. Would you suggest me a book or other reference to read about that?
It is hard to get the cloth placed and trimmed with the whole roll still attached. Trimming it roughly to size first may waste a bit of material, but produces better results.
The way you narrate yourself while the other you actually performs the step is a fantastic format for diy videos.
I saw another RUclipsr do something similar, so I gave it a try. It takes a lot of care and planning to pull it off.
Last week I had to take a couple days off from working in the shop, so I'll need to take break from releasing videos to keep things on track. The next video should be released Wednesday or Thursday.
The episodes have still been coming out faster than I can watch them. This is another A+ one, both in content and editing. As someone else mentioned, the clock is very handy. This was the first time I really paid attention during the video, I was just wondering how long some operations were taking overall and the clock provided the answer directly. You are continually raising the bar in your videos. Thanks again.
Looking stupendous. I’ve always enjoyed this stage in my own work when you finally get to cut away the excess glass and appreciate the effort as it all begins to come together. It’s a time to catch a “second wind” seeing light at the end of the project. Of course the best part no doubt is marrying both halves together into one. Hope your finding moments to step back and enjoy your work as you go. Cheers.
Great insight to wetting out the Carbon Kevlar ! I had my share of troubles, and you addressed the same problems ! There is always Next time ! Thanks Nick ! Another great video !
Another great video Nick. I haven’t used Kevlar or carbon fiber so this was an excellent lesson.
Amazing. On my canoe the temperature, as I noted in a previous post, was way too cold compared to your standards. We are always talking about "peanut butter" when preparing fillets, I was trying to get "honey" to wet out my fiber glass. The thought of warming my mix or having my shop up to 85-90 degrees F never crossed my mind. My garage/wood shop was 65 degrees F and outside it was -10 degrees F. If I had waited until early August in Minnesota the outcome would have taken a comparatively short time and quality of outcome remarkably superior. I should have waited. As it turned out it was nearly August by the time I finished sanding! Ha, ha...almost not an exaggeration. ;)
Excellent as always!!! I really like the CF/Kevlar on the inside.
Looking good Nick.
Thanks for this good explanation. I am building R/C modelboats myself, but I think the same rules apply.
Good afternoon. Ok with Kevlar everything is clear. Thank you for the lesson. Laik. :-)
Great work, good video - thanks
Do you have any advice for sanding kevlar? I have some on my boat I need to fair, and I've had some friends warn me that they screwed up some kevlar trying to sand it
Curious how much you feel that the carbon/kevlar cloths adds? Also, although you didn't you can apply multiple layers for more strength? I am planning stages of building a small boat that I would like to use in a river off the ocean so if ocean is mild would like to take out there and want to make sure the hull can handle any waves while moving.
I have a question, I am building a project using carbon/kevlar fabric. I heard that you can not sand kevlar as it will have shreds (due to puncture resistance). How to you go about sanding it (or some other methods) so that it leaves a smooth edge after buffing.
Kevlar can be sanded, but doing so tends to raise fibers that leave a fuzzy surface. I have found that continuing with finer and finer grits of sandpaper will cut back the fuzz and eventually produce a smooth surface.
You can also apply more resin over the fuzzy surface to harden the fibers which allows further sanding and shaping.
A combination of sanding and resin coats should work to produce a smooth edge.
@@NickSchade Thanks a million. Now I can proceed more.....confidently.
I know you have successfully done vacuum infusion on carbon cloth for the interior of a hull, which results in a much lighter and stronger composite, so why did you do this as a hand layup?
Because it is WAAAAY easier to do a hand layup. A hand layup of CF or CF/K is a fun upgrade that just about anyone with experience with fiberglass can fairly easily adjust to. The vacuum infusion needs a lot of different tools, more materials and way more time and attention to detail.
How important is it to use carbon or carbon/Kevlar cloth on the interior, or at all? Is this necessary for the structural integrity of the kayak, or is this simply something to help increase stability in rough waters?
Jacob Seibold A reinforcing fabric is required, but it does not need to be exotic like Kevlar or carbon. A standard fiberglass cloth reinforcement would be plenty. Since the cedar strips are only 3/16” thick they don’t have a lot of strength on their own. When combined with the fabric reinforcement, you get a very rugged material.
I am sorry to bother you but what is the final weight of the finished kayak
about 35lbs [16kg]
@@NickSchade that you for the information
@@michaelleake7894 Glad to help
Can carbon-kevlar cloth be used interchangeably with fiberglass cloth in plywood-epoxy boat building?
Pretty much. It is harder to work with, but anywhere you could put glass you could put carbon/Kevlar or Kevlar or Carbon Fiber.
Thank you. I would like to know more about the use of these materials vs fiberglass. Would you suggest me a book or other reference to read about that?
Composite Basics by Andrew Marshall: amzn.to/2JCRimy
Thank you!
I cringed when you trimmed off that expensive excess kevlar! Send it the cut off scraps to me next time so I can use them as tape
What's the point of cutting the cloth with scissors and then trimming it again with that electric tool? Waste of expensive material, I reckon.
It is hard to get the cloth placed and trimmed with the whole roll still attached. Trimming it roughly to size first may waste a bit of material, but produces better results.