Lance Carson
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2016
- Lance Carson speaks candid with Adrian Z of NuWave Productions of San Diego about the early days of surfing Malibu, the movie "Big Wednesday", life in general and the most important things in life.
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Excellent interview with arguably the best surfer to ever ride Malibu. This interview is well conducted. He was permitted to relate his thoughts as articulate as they are. His eyes are a sharp as a Perigrine Falcon, and you captured that too. You did justice to an American Treasure. Thank you.
Lance is a great man and looks fantastic for his age. Lance used to come into the Malibu Chart House a lot when I worked there as a waiter in the late 70's and early 80's. He always drank coffee in the then classic cobalt blue coffee cups that the Chart had. Lance was a long time sober and treated all of us great. He didn't act like a big shot as he was living life one day at a time and staying sober. The reason he looks so great is because he hasn't poisoned his body for the last 40 years. I also remember when he got back into surfing and seeing him at First Point Malibu and another surfing legend Buzz Sutphin (RIP). It was a real pleasure for me to surf with them and to watch them ride waves. Buzz Sutphin was my first manager at the Malibu Chart House. I bugged him everyday to give me a job after I was finished surfing Topanga or Malibu. I went in everyday and asked for a job, one day he said to me "Rocky, today is your lucky day, I need a dishwasher now, be here at 4:30pm so I can get you up to speed. Great times.
Really like his gratitude towards God, the early days at Malibu must have felt like Heaven.
Lance looks great. I discovered Malibu in 1958 as a 7 year old kid. Was much the same as described - out in the country.
Being a bit late to the game here, this was a fantastic interview with one of the best ever. Thanks
Awesome! Very nice Guy!
Lance: Great interview! As you know, I was there! We rode many waves through the period. Parties too! Oh yeah, Cars, your 40 coupe, my 47 woodie. Still have my 48 woodie. So much fun! You and I and the other guys had the best upbringing anyone growing up in the USA ever had! I talk to Tom Morey at least once a month. So lucky to have all the friends that we made along the way! Your friend Tim Tuthill
Amazing Lance As Always
So cool!!
A Malibu legend for sure 👍
Thank God I too had my days at Malibu.
why aren't there non-white people surfing. it's like golf.
The same reason they made a 2 block "park" out of the land in Manhattan Beach that was owned by black folks.
they can't swim
@@surferdude800 HOLY SHIT! You rarelly see such pure racism in public in this day and age. You're gonna get some karma, dude.
There are many non-white surfers. Brazil has some of the best surfers in the world.