The Swarovski 65mm Objective focuses to just inside of 7 feet. If the scope is zoomed to its maximum of 60x, that setup with a DSLR like the Nikon D7100 is effectively a 2700mm lens focused on a subject at 7 feet away. That gives you full-frame butterflies and even dragonfly head shots. Whether it meets the magnification criteria of "true" macro shooting, I do not know, but it is a lot of fun.
The only criteria for macro is that it casts a 1:1 reproduction ration on the image sensor or larger. The full size of the fly would be projected onto the image sensor or larger. Though a 1:4 reproduction ratio is also acceptable as you it would appear 1:1 on a 4x6 small print.
I've been experimenting in the garden, and have finally sussed out where I've been going wrong. As you so rightly say, forget about trying to get pin sharp images Take photos at high speed (up to 1/000 sec) turn up the iso to around 4000. You probably won't see anything on preview, but you can bring it back in post processing.
Got my STX85 2 weeks ago. Thank you for these tips. I have had some good shots but I think I was expecting too much for distant subjects. Its all a learning curve.
Thanks for these 2 great videos. As you know, Swarovski is the top of the price range in spotting scopes. Are there adapters available for some of the lower priced scope B&H sells such as Barska, Bushnell Celestron, etc? Thanks again for the good work. This is one of the reasons why B&H is also top of the heap.
My K5 prompts me to set a focal length when a non-electronic lens is attached and Image Stabilization is turned on (menu page 4). I manually set my K5's IS system to 800mm (the maximum possible), and that seems to work well when I shoot digiscoped photos of flying birds, airplanes, etc. Most IS systems are not meant to be used while the camera is mounted on a tripod, so I usually turn it off while tripod shooting.
There are plenty scopes made that can be adapted to your camera. In order to recommend a scope, we would need to know what brand and model your camera is and what sort of subjects do you want to view with the scope. Please send it as an email directly to sales{at}bhphotovideo{dot}com DennisL
This does look interesting but like you said, the scope lets in less light which I think is very important for wildlife photography. Also I prefer to keep autofocus and adjust the focus point on my camera than doing it manually.
upon watching the clips i saw the camera screen f4 iso 3200 is that the real aperture of the swarovski or just the aperture of the attached lens?can i use the same setup with a 50 mm f1.4?
sorry i want ask about william optic and borg brand are they good for birding sir for beginner? which one is best for birding,buy super tele zoom nikon or tamron or fieldscope or spoting scope like yours? could u please to give me some info because its very dificult to find tekescope for birding like yours in my country
Thanks: very helpful videos. I have been trying to get clear sharp photos for a year or so now, but it is not easy: These issues are what I have learnt: the first issue is that you really need good light as the scope reduces the light getting to the sensor, much more so at 70X zoom so morning and evening light, which is often the best time of the day for wildlife, can be challenging unless you are happy shooting at ISOs of greater than 6400 at shutterspeeds of >1/1000s which you should try to do with the focal length of the scope; secondly you should not touch the rig whilst taking a photo so as per Mr Becker's advice, use the 10s timer or better still a timer remote controller and hope whatever you are trying to capture has not moved! ; The third issue is also covered by Mr Becker i.e. that on many days, especially in the summer months, heat haze is a real problem in blurring your images with the subjects being so far away. The fourth issue is the manual focusing of the scope which with my eyes, means I have to wear specs and use the live view to try and get the sharpest image. In bright sunlight, thsis is a real challenge. I have to adjust the diopter on the camera eyepiece so this immediately affects the objective focus on the scope, meaning that they are never in focus when I use the eyepiece of the camera to focus. If anybody has any suggestions about doing this other than using specs to view through the camera eyepiece which I find tricky too, I would be grateful. (I use a Swarovski 30-70 x STX with the mounting rail, used with a canon 5D IV, with a TLS APO 30mm adapter, on a GITZO 6M tripod with a Wimberley head. When you do get it right, it is a great feeling!)
Scopes do not have a macro functionality but close up photography involves moving the focal-plane away from the optical center. If you double the focal length of a lens in distance (focal-plane to optical center) you get 1:1 or life size magnification. In theory, with a long enough spacer or tube, you may but this would be experimental as I have never tried it. C h u c k askbh{at}bandh{dot}com
I am pretty sure the screen shot of the back of the camera was generic. The Nikon D4 had no lens on it as DSLR's use the scope as it's lens. Shooting this was will yield the best results. C h u c k askbh{at}bandh{dot}com
Hi thank you very much. I own a z6 Nikon. Pls suggest me the digits open and adapter I should buy for this camera. I am interested in bird photography. Thanks in advance
Unfortunately, I do not quite understand your question the way it is phrased above (I do not know what you mean by "digits open and adapter"). As such, I would recommend e-mailing your inquiry to *askbh {at} bhphoto {dot} com* for assistance with your inquiry. While you listed you own the Nikon Z6 Mirrorless Digital Camera, if you can specify the brand/model of the spotting scope you will be using, that would also assist us in locating an adapter designed to connect your camera to your spotting scope. Also, if you can give us information on the "digits open" part of your inquiry, that would also be beneficial in assisting you with your inquiry.
There are several concerns. Some camera bodies may require an electronic handshake from a lens to activate sensor IS. T mount adapters do not provide this. If shooting celestial objects such as the moon, these objects move and IS will not benefit action shooting of recording a moving object. C h u c k askbh{at}bandh{dot}com
***** Not likely. With digiscoping for still images the exposure time is typically long so as to acquire as much detail as possible. With video it would likely be too dark to be useful. - Yossi
For anyone considering photography of far away objects the cheapest option is a camera like the Canon SX50 (50x) or the Fujifilm HS50 (42x) and the like. That's where i would start.
The Swarovski 65mm Objective focuses to just inside of 7 feet. If the scope is zoomed to its maximum of 60x, that setup with a DSLR like the Nikon D7100 is effectively a 2700mm lens focused on a subject at 7 feet away. That gives you full-frame butterflies and even dragonfly head shots. Whether it meets the magnification criteria of "true" macro shooting, I do not know, but it is a lot of fun.
The only criteria for macro is that it casts a 1:1 reproduction ration on the image sensor or larger. The full size of the fly would be projected onto the image sensor or larger. Though a 1:4 reproduction ratio is also acceptable as you it would appear 1:1 on a 4x6 small print.
I've been experimenting in the garden, and have finally sussed out where I've been going wrong.
As you so rightly say, forget about trying to get pin sharp images Take photos at high speed (up to 1/000 sec)
turn up the iso to around 4000. You probably won't see anything on preview, but you can bring it back in
post processing.
Great advice. I have just invested in an ATX with all of the equipment needed for digiscoping.
All I need now is for the rain to stop. :(
Got my STX85 2 weeks ago. Thank you for these tips. I have had some good shots but I think I was expecting too much for distant subjects. Its all a learning curve.
Good video but, btw, that was an Osprey you were looking at 11:30 in.
i love you
Thanks for these 2 great videos. As you know, Swarovski is the top of the price range in spotting scopes. Are there adapters available for some of the lower priced scope B&H sells such as Barska, Bushnell Celestron, etc?
Thanks again for the good work. This is one of the reasons why B&H is also top of the heap.
My K5 prompts me to set a focal length when a non-electronic lens is attached and Image Stabilization is turned on (menu page 4). I manually set my K5's IS system to 800mm (the maximum possible), and that seems to work well when I shoot digiscoped photos of flying birds, airplanes, etc. Most IS systems are not meant to be used while the camera is mounted on a tripod, so I usually turn it off while tripod shooting.
There are plenty scopes made that can be adapted to your camera. In order to recommend a scope, we would need to know what brand and model your camera is and what sort of subjects do you want to view with the scope. Please send it as an email directly to sales{at}bhphotovideo{dot}com
DennisL
How effective would the stabilisation be if you mounted a dslr with in-body-stabilisation such as a Pentax K-5 or a Sony A77?
This does look interesting but like you said, the scope lets in less light which I think is very important for wildlife photography. Also I prefer to keep autofocus and adjust the focus point on my camera than doing it manually.
Hi, can I use a Nikon D850 for digiscoping? Can I do too good videos?
upon watching the clips i saw the camera screen f4 iso 3200 is that the real aperture of the swarovski or just the aperture of the attached lens?can i use the same setup with a 50 mm f1.4?
sorry i want ask about william optic and borg brand are they good for birding sir for beginner? which one is best for birding,buy super tele zoom nikon or tamron or fieldscope or spoting scope like yours? could u please to give me some info because its very dificult to find tekescope for birding like yours in my country
Thanks: very helpful videos. I have been trying to get clear sharp photos for a year or so now, but it is not easy: These issues are what I have learnt: the first issue is that you really need good light as the scope reduces the light getting to the sensor, much more so at 70X zoom so morning and evening light, which is often the best time of the day for wildlife, can be challenging unless you are happy shooting at ISOs of greater than 6400 at shutterspeeds of >1/1000s which you should try to do with the focal length of the scope; secondly you should not touch the rig whilst taking a photo so as per Mr Becker's advice, use the 10s timer or better still a timer remote controller and hope whatever you are trying to capture has not moved! ; The third issue is also covered by Mr Becker i.e. that on many days, especially in the summer months, heat haze is a real problem in blurring your images with the subjects being so far away. The fourth issue is the manual focusing of the scope which with my eyes, means I have to wear specs and use the live view to try and get the sharpest image. In bright sunlight, thsis is a real challenge. I have to adjust the diopter on the camera eyepiece so this immediately affects the objective focus on the scope, meaning that they are never in focus when I use the eyepiece of the camera to focus. If anybody has any suggestions about doing this other than using specs to view through the camera eyepiece which I find tricky too, I would be grateful. (I use a Swarovski 30-70 x STX with the mounting rail, used with a canon 5D IV, with a TLS APO 30mm adapter, on a GITZO 6M tripod with a Wimberley head. When you do get it right, it is a great feeling!)
Scopes do not have a macro functionality but close up photography involves moving the focal-plane away from the optical center. If you double the focal length of a lens in distance (focal-plane to optical center) you get 1:1 or life size magnification. In theory, with a long enough spacer or tube, you may but this would be experimental as I have never tried it.
C h u c k
askbh{at}bandh{dot}com
I am pretty sure the screen shot of the back of the camera was generic. The Nikon D4 had no lens on it as DSLR's use the scope as it's lens. Shooting this was will yield the best results.
C h u c k
askbh{at}bandh{dot}com
Would having a high iso cause a lot of grain in the picture?
Yes, primarily
Its possible to do Macro with this lenses ?
Hi thank you very much. I own a z6 Nikon. Pls suggest me the digits open and adapter I should buy for this camera. I am interested in bird photography. Thanks in advance
Unfortunately, I do not quite understand your question the way it is phrased above (I do not know what you mean by "digits open and adapter"). As such, I would recommend e-mailing your inquiry to *askbh {at} bhphoto {dot} com* for assistance with your inquiry. While you listed you own the Nikon Z6 Mirrorless Digital Camera, if you can specify the brand/model of the spotting scope you will be using, that would also assist us in locating an adapter designed to connect your camera to your spotting scope. Also, if you can give us information on the "digits open" part of your inquiry, that would also be beneficial in assisting you with your inquiry.
@@BandH thank you very much , I figured out I need a tha apo 43 mm for my Swarovski ATM 80 mm scope with 25-50x W eye piece with a T2 adapter.
That was an Osprey eating the fish in the tree.
There are several concerns. Some camera bodies may require an electronic handshake from a lens to activate sensor IS. T mount adapters do not provide this. If shooting celestial objects such as the moon, these objects move and IS will not benefit action shooting of recording a moving object.
C h u c k
askbh{at}bandh{dot}com
Can you make videos?
***** Not likely. With digiscoping for still images the exposure time is typically long so as to acquire as much detail as possible. With video it would likely be too dark to be useful. - Yossi
Thank you!
For anyone considering photography of far away objects the cheapest option is a camera like the Canon SX50 (50x) or the Fujifilm HS50 (42x) and the like.
That's where i would start.
great video! well done.
Awesome job! Thanks for the videos
very very good
everything but a zoom test which is all i want to see