You will not believe how much you’re channel has helped me. I’m about to start mine now and you are the only channel I’ve found that goes step by step. Much respect ✊
@@ktecgarage no problem! Do you happen to have a email I could use to contact you if I run into any problems. If not I understand and thanks in advance.
I was searching for L15A1 engine and stumbled upon ur channel and literary got glued. You sir, mentioned that you are not a mechanic but you proved thoroughly otherwise. Wondering what all books did you read or how many hours of practical experience got you where you are. Simply wonderful. Please continue to enlighten us. All tge best...Hats off again...respect from Bangladesh...
Thank you for your kind words! Makes the effort of this worthwhile. At age 17 (1987) I rebuilt the 302CI in my 69 Mustang using the Chilton manual which pretty much taught me the basics. Did all my repairs on cars or lawnmowers or whatever my whole life. Prior to these videos I rebuilt the D15B7 in my 93 Civic. After I pulled this engine I decided to pick up the camera and share. I have found that most of learning to do these types of projects is just having the courage to start. If only I had RUclips in 1987 when I did that small block!
Sure thing. The last 90 turn will wind up at around 120 foot lbs. I suggest you do that with the engine in the car, not on a stand. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for all the good info. I'm far away from this step, but eventually I'll get here. I'm about to pull engine/trans. At the moment disconnecting everything, had very hard time with one of the axle nuts. Thanks again.
Those can be a pain. MAP gas applied for five minutes can do the trick. I even used that candle wax trick before. Not sure if it was the wax, the heat or the pipe on the end of the breaker bar that worked!
I just pulled my head. I have a burnt, broken valve. Just wondering what would be cheaper, having that head rebuilt or just bying a reconditioned head? Thanks for doing the videos very helpful.
Ouch. If I found one in a junk yard with "lowish" miles, l would grab that, check it for flat and redo the seals. Reconditioning that head would probably mean 16 new valve guides which would run you about $20 a piece. Milling it would be another $100 or so. If you have a machine shop you trust to tell you the guides were in spec, you could probably just get away with new valves which isn't that expensive. Good luck!
Hello Sir, I'm at this point now. Have a question, the torque specs you mentioned are only for 'torque-yield bolts'? I'm using the headbolts that came with my kit, yet I have to figure out/research what type are they. New bolts are shorter(10.9 rated) than the old ones that come out. Thanks
If you go 90 degrees three times with a bolt that doesn't stretch, I would think you be likely to break it. If you are not sure what you have, I'd ask the company you got them from before you run it down. Also, don't do the last step until after you put the engine back in the car. Much easier.
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You will not believe how much you’re channel has helped me. I’m about to start mine now and you are the only channel I’ve found that goes step by step. Much respect ✊
Thank you Mr. Dawg! It is always good to hear this effort helped someone out. Thank you for commenting.
@@ktecgarage no problem! Do you happen to have a email I could use to contact you if I run into any problems. If not I understand and thanks in advance.
ktecgarage@gmail.com
IG there too.
@@ktecgarage thankyou
Thank you for these videos! I am also rebuilding a f23a1 right now and was having trouble with the balance shaft, and your videos really helped out!
And thank you! Glad I was able to help you out. Going to be finishing up very soon.
I was searching for L15A1 engine and stumbled upon ur channel and literary got glued. You sir, mentioned that you are not a mechanic but you proved thoroughly otherwise. Wondering what all books did you read or how many hours of practical experience got you where you are. Simply wonderful. Please continue to enlighten us. All tge best...Hats off again...respect from Bangladesh...
Thank you for your kind words! Makes the effort of this worthwhile. At age 17 (1987) I rebuilt the 302CI in my 69 Mustang using the Chilton manual which pretty much taught me the basics. Did all my repairs on cars or lawnmowers or whatever my whole life. Prior to these videos I rebuilt the D15B7 in my 93 Civic. After I pulled this engine I decided to pick up the camera and share. I have found that most of learning to do these types of projects is just having the courage to start. If only I had RUclips in 1987 when I did that small block!
I might also suggest other RUclips channels such as Eric the Car Guy, South Main Auto and Mustie1. Those guys inspire me everyday!
Thanks for the info about the head bolts!
Sure thing. The last 90 turn will wind up at around 120 foot lbs. I suggest you do that with the engine in the car, not on a stand. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for all the good info.
I'm far away from this step, but eventually I'll get here.
I'm about to pull engine/trans. At the moment disconnecting everything, had very hard time with one of the axle nuts.
Thanks again.
Those can be a pain. MAP gas applied for five minutes can do the trick. I even used that candle wax trick before. Not sure if it was the wax, the heat or the pipe on the end of the breaker bar that worked!
I just pulled my head. I have a burnt, broken valve. Just wondering what would be cheaper, having that head rebuilt or just bying a reconditioned head? Thanks for doing the videos very helpful.
Ouch. If I found one in a junk yard with "lowish" miles, l would grab that, check it for flat and redo the seals. Reconditioning that head would probably mean 16 new valve guides which would run you about $20 a piece. Milling it would be another $100 or so. If you have a machine shop you trust to tell you the guides were in spec, you could probably just get away with new valves which isn't that expensive. Good luck!
Where is the roster? Can’t have a barn yard mechanic with out a roster. Thanks for the video.
Ha!
Amen 👏
😁
Hello Sir, I'm at this point now. Have a question, the torque specs you mentioned are only for 'torque-yield bolts'?
I'm using the headbolts that came with my kit, yet I have to figure out/research what type are they. New bolts are shorter(10.9 rated) than the old ones that come out.
Thanks
If you go 90 degrees three times with a bolt that doesn't stretch, I would think you be likely to break it. If you are not sure what you have, I'd ask the company you got them from before you run it down. Also, don't do the last step until after you put the engine back in the car. Much easier.
@@ktecgarage got it.
@@ktecgarage Yes, the bolts that I got are torque to yield, Amazon/Evergreen responded today.
Then according to the Haynes manual, just what I said in the video. Again, do that last 90 after u get the engine back in. Good luck Gus!
@@gush9348 lol. Next time just hit em with 100 nm and u good to go
Man that piece of paper towel stuck to the head would be bothering me right about now.. lol
OCD much? 😁
@@ktecgarage im sure it got sucked up n burnt out no worries