You're Speed Painting WRONG!
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2022
- gamefound.com/projects/draft/...
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Jay takes a look at and paints the Ravaged Star miniatures from MiniWarGaming! We have new videos every Monday, Wednesday and Friday! We're streaming Monday-Saturday starting at 9PM CST!! JOIN USSSS! Thanks for watching!
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If you like what you see make sure you take a look at the campaign on gamefound! gamefound.com/projects/draft/m56v1l6vemgcar7qkfrf27jmh1y?refcode=7LEb500X8U2rC0syV1Dxvw
I think the current 4mm deep bases are great, they act in my opinion a bit like a picture frame. Makes the miniatures look crisper
GO-BLIN GREEN
GO-BLIN GREEN
GO-BLIN GREEN
* resumes Hybrid Theory on his portable CD player *
The thing with the bases is that the 4mm of 'useless'' helps a lot with wobly minature syndrome. I play Bolt action (flat base) and 40K (hollow base) and u are surprised how helpful the hollow base is
I gotta say bases without rims always make the mini look “cheap” to my eyes. I like the MWG chaos minis a lot but they would look a lot better mounted to GW style bases- just a much more polished look IMO.
I can agree
Me too. The edge of the base is for easy grabbing and moving. I take lots of care for my painted ones and always avoid touching the paint if i can help it
Iron wind metals sells attletech mechs with out bases so you can pick what base to use or not.... I think MWG is going for the same Idea of bring your own bases for the game you use them in as they are rules agnostic models. Or not and leave them be if you like them wih out bases.
@@GreenBlueWalkthrough actually.. You might be on something.. Maybe we're supposed to glue the MWG bases unto a regular base? 🤔
@@d-emprahexpects849 I think that was the intent
I like the 4mm base rim as it works as a bumper against terrain. I don't want terrain other models bumping my base that I painstakingly created and painted.
The 4mm base rim is invaluable for magnets!
Also Jay going full-on Moon Knight is something i didn't expect but is welcome :P
And you're right, those gals look great!
You did a really really good job. I’m kind of blown away at how good they look! Also the camera you use to focus in on your painting is really good! What kind is it?
"I'm not gonna use Agrax Earthshade because that would be like 2 dollars!"
* Pulls out entire alchemy kit *
Hollow bases are so you can place stuff on terrain without them falling over all the time
This.
I enjoy making the "rims must be black!" jokes but I paint my space marine base rims the color of whatever company that unit is a part of. If I'm not painting space marine then the base rims are a color that goes well with the base terrain but I will often still default to black.
Base height came from being able to fit a slotta tab. Before that models were mostly produced with a cast base that was part of the model.
Good call 👍🏻
The 4mm high bases are hollow inside and thus stand way better on rocky terrain, flock, static grass etc. Smooth bottom mini bases tend to fall over on such terrain. On neoprene mats it doesn’t matter.
I like bases because that way each mini is a display model on its own pedestal. There’s also room to match the rim to the look of your army and give it some visual cohesion while making each unit or model unique within the scheme. There’s also some who like to give each unit a different color base. Running 6 units of cultists and they all look like a blob? Paint each unit a different color rim or even a color stripe to differentiate them when you pile them all up into a melee. This is just my opinion and In no way does it represent what i think everyone should do. Everyone should do what feels right to them! Btw fantastic paint job on these minis! Lovely speed paint
Funny that moulded bases are exciting these days :) My memory is that Citadel/GW made "slotta" bases so that they could save money on the comparatively expensive metal used for the rest of the minis (price per figure was a lot closer to price per kg). This was before plastic figures (never mind resin) were at all common (it might be before GW did plastic entirely; it was a long time ago and I can't remember). Around then they began to use base size as part of the game rules as well.
Before that models had moulded in bases or even came with separate metal bases which tended to be very small and plain (there were exceptions of course). Re-basing or adding to the base was common among people I knew just to stop models falling over too easily (more than to make them look a any nicer). Anything like the amazing base work people do now was pretty rare then - adding some sand with PVA was positively artistic(!).
It was a clever move from GW really; some people didn't like the look of slottas, but you could always cut off the shim and put the models on whatever base you wanted to - e.g. I used two pence coins for a while so they'd match minis from other companies.
Thanks for this vid! I brought one of the boxes of these minis, then started getting cold feet over the sheer amount of detail. Using washes and glazes and dry brushing'll mean I might actually have a chance of making some good looking models without going mad!
Well, Void-Touched. So mad-er I guess.
When half of the hints involve a airbrush
So when the defense of base rim colors came up, in my head I saw multiple Jay's sitting in an old school lounge with cigar smoke, tophats and monacles. The true debate of our time still yet to be truly solved.
Being mindful with the premium agrax earthshade? Meanwhile I'm over here knocking over half the pot on to my kitchen table 😅
Jay, 19 models in 8 hours is 25 minutes (and a little over 15 seconds) each. Although you finished with 16 minutes and 3 seconds to spare, so it's more like 24 minutes and 25 seconds each.
I think my version of speed painting is getting a squad done within a week...or a month...I've got partially painted Ork Kommandos since December...
Same xD
I think what happened was when writing the script he divided 8 hours by 19 and got ~0.42 hours per model and accidentally translated that into 42 minutes rather than 42% of a 60-minute hour (which as you mentioned would be a little over 25 minutes per model).
Just wanna say the 3 jays made my day, this middle one's face was too good
The magic recipe for couple-of-minute models is transparent resin and alcohol inks. A little acetone and you'll have elementals and ghosts with perfect blends at a shocking speed. But that obviously doesn't work for everything.
My mind is going “it would have been faster with speed paints and then worry about making the highlights pop out.”
Mate, you are quickly becoming my fav YT-er with your engaging and fun presentation style - Keep it up bro!
my take:
speed paint gaming armies
take your time on show pieces and characters
I will die on this hill beside you, brother!
GOBLIN GREEN!
Hah! Jokes on you! I've yet to start painting!! Due to the fear of messing up..
I am just starting the hobby and just beginning to paint my grey knights kill team. Thank you for your tutorials and the idea of wooden paint handles. Tho my hands are quite bit so I'm just using longer wood :D After I finish painting them there will be basing!
You know, i think i could get behind the whole no base rim thing
You're crushing the speed painting! Thanks for the video. I have a video idea for terrain, do a build and paint, but also, talk about how different types and shapes of terrain pieces to add to what games and why and how they might be used in game.
Lovely quick paint job. Necromunda is my groups current minature game. It really jingles my jangles, I have a feeling you would really like it. It creates some brilliant cinematic moments, fresh recruits ending up the last man standing, clutch grenades or the guy with one attack taking out the enemy leader with the butt of his gun. Like wise that guy that caught fire, fell off a ledge and and now has a limp or lined up an easy shot, missed and jammed his gun. It's just great
I have been getting into 3d printing sculpted bases, but I don't have a big printer or enough variety of bases to furnish a whole army
I will be trying this to get my Tyranids painted. Thanks for the tips.
A Balck Rim under every Base just helps seperating.
Your Mini tells his story on his Base.
Your Model tells a Story on the Battlefield.
There is no other color that just fits between every color better than Black.
I’ve really been enjoying base coating black and dry brushing grey and white on large batches of models. That for me really sets a good foundation to start with and large numbers of models becomes much easier to tackle
those minis look awesome! thank you for the tips! enjoyed the stream and everyone knows you go with a GOLD rim job!
Those look class!! do more painting videos!! thanks for the hints and tips.
Hey, what psi are you using for that zenithal, I keep getting a verys spattered effect? Also those look epic.
I like raised bases for gluing washers underneath. I like the feel of the weight, plus I have magnetic storage and travel boxes so they stay upright.
I personally prefer normal rimmed bases over sculpted ones, because they leave more room for creativity.
These look so gooooood!!! Your models are very impressive, you must be very proud!!
Black is the only acceptable base rim colour.
Obviously the base rims should be colored according to which unit they're in. That way everything's screwed up once you change your list!
ive never speed painted in my life. i'm still working on a start collecting box from 2020
Why 4mm of "useless" height? Because unless you are playing on flat surface, that concave shape is much more stable on uneven terrain, than a flat bottom.
Those are some awesome tips for painting. Thank you!
I hope you guys realise just how good your videos are - best mini painting RUclips channel around
What paint medium did you use for the glaze?
Lolol the pointing is so triggering. Im gna start doing that on my channel now 😂. YOUR BEST FRIEND 🫵🫵🫵
Speed painting is good for me. Because I'll always go back and do touch ups over time
They are 3D printed cultists, if you want them to better match the size of GW cultist you already have print them at 88% their original size. Scaling factor = [Height you want] / [Height the original model] | X=28/32 | X=.875 This same idea can be used with any 3D printable files you own or see online. You see an awesome 54mm sculpt online that would make for a kickass HQ/Leader, 28/54=.518 or 52%. Being able to scale prints is just one of the super useful features of 3D printing.
these are prototypes in the exact size they will be made in when they are manufactured
@@EonsOfBattle - Sorry, I forgot MWG Dave's models were being cast in PVC and shipped as physical models. There are currently sooo many kickstarters, subscriptions, patreons etc.., with sooo many great sculpts both stl and physical it's hard to keep track. Carry on. ;)
My speed painting method is one of two things. EITHER prime, airbrush the main base layer to get a good gradient, bring out details with hand painting (layering or wet on wet), use selective oil washes.
OR
Zenithal prime, transparent color for base. Heavy all over oil "washes" (much closer to a layer paint consistency than a wash) of various colors and clean off, a few additional highlights, and done.
The second method is basically the same here except using oil washes instead of acrylic washes which I find to be a hair faster and give me the results I'm looking for.
Getting my base highlights before painting is definitely something I need to work on
It's shit like this that makes me pick up my own brush
Fantastic work!!!
Oh by he way in an udate the manager is said to stay open to augast 2022 as they are doing these proffing runs and you can always get the models later at raised price.
Great video and technique. Im going to give it a try for Vietnam minis in 28mm.
Great guide! Would be great to see such a guide on your great Night Lords KillTeam 😉
I'm impressed with your end result. Well done!
Awesome techniques. I really need to try you speed painting method. It's a fun way to paint a lot of minis.
Such nice minis I have a large group of necrons to paint and hope these techniques help me. Good very vids.
I'm actually working on a bloodbowl team with a similair vibe. And even though I like the models and would like to have them be completed, I'm just not excited about painting them. But giving speedpainting a try would be a nice fun challenge. And I think the techniques you've used there would also work for what I have allready prepared (Air brushed base colors/zenithal).
Dang that's a righteous method and result my friend.
Gonna need to test your wash formula- Thanks for sharing it.
Video: you are painting wrong!
Me: uh, no, I don't paint at all because I live in a dorm and all my paints and minis are at home
Is it really only having your eye on Necromunda if you already own everything you need to play?
Yes, because that's how the wargaming hobby works.
I like the raised height of based minis because I can put a magnet on their base without unbalancing, drilling, or sculpting it in there. It makes them so much easier to transport than any other method.
What thickness magnet do you use?
GOBLIN GREEN GOBLIN GREEN
That side profile frown will make a great emote, mayhaps a RUclips livestream one in the future?
WGA's new bases seem pretty cool. That have a magnet slot and are double sided, one flat and one rimmed to hide puddle bases.
They look amazing.
Red stuff alzo helpz ya go real fast boiz. When ya squish a gitz you can uze dat red stuff on ya skin. Zoom zoom.
#Speedpaint
From now on, I'm painting rainbow base rims. 20 mins on the mini, 4 hours on the rim.
@Noots Never skimp on rimming.
This is perfect for my Necromunda Nomads. Thanks.
Amazing work!
Don´t you dare to shatter my whole world mister
I paint my rims red… FOR CHAOS! but also because I like it lol
Maybe I’m doing it wrong but when I dry brush for highlights it’s applied a lot heavier than what you showed
I ageee with that 3rd Jay, Goblin Green! Goblin Green!
Black is easier for the eye to ignore than brown/grey/whatever else, which is why its the 'default' base rcolour - however there's an argument to be made that if the rest of the base isn't black then it maybe doesn't matter if the rim is black, and the best thing is to match the base colours.
I love necromunda, I used to play back in the 90s.
I have been very curious about the new (not so new anymore) Necromunda
Age of Sigmar is a wacky roulette wheel of scale… if the models weren’t so awesome, I’d complain.
Also, I like thick bases and color the bases by squad (red, blue, etcetera).
But, but, I'm not speed painting?!
My Custodes have dark purple base rims. Because that's pretty much the only color besides Black and Gold that I used.
Just ordered this set
Looking for to trying it out
that was some hilarious acting, nice
The 4mm deep bases are a hangover from when GW moved to slotta and the depth was there to accommodate the tab on the bottom of the miniature. The hollow underside of the base does allow it to grip onto uneven terrain and slidey surfaces. That being said they look abit naff and they are not the industry standard in historical gaming.
Depending on the game, and what kinds of slopes I'm going to encounter, I'll either do flat bases for my historicals (just a washer, or the Bolt Action style bases), or the hollow style if I'm going to encounter slopes >= 1:3. For my SLUDGE army, they all have hollow bases I sculpted, but with the Reaper-style flat edges. Kinda wish that I'd started my GW armies on those kinds of bases too.
If someone is going to complain that the bases are too thick they are not even worth playing a game with.
They are also nice for gluing a magnet underneath the base. My army cases are all magnetized and I've never once had a problem with the models or paint jobs getting damaged during transit.
@@Totema1 I do the same with my GW bases but the flat ones I stick magnetic tape to the bottom which is super quick.
Not really as DND,Battletech also use deep bases as do most moden games like Bolt action, WW3 Team Yankee. Like Victory at sea the ships don't need bases but they have them becuase the look nice.
Pretty nice editing guys!
I treasure my Raven Guard and to mark them from my Guilty Blades (Dark Angel successor), Grey Knights and Iron Warriors, whose rims I paint black like everyone else, I paint my Raven Guard base rims with white. Goes with the snowy base.
Hey jay can you do a series on the start and finish of an mini like some basic steps and a little bit more because I’m having a really hard time getting into thing and stuff love how you paint
Kinda curious, what do you think the agrax earthshade does that your homemade can't? Is it the particular coloring, or a certain way it flows? I have never used anything from GW, and my standard has been AP strong tone, but I'm curious what you think makes it special. (Other than price at least)
I think he said in the video that he just thought it would be expensive. This method allows him to make a lot of it but it’s a lower quality. Other than that I don’t think there’s anything else
@@owenhouck5281 yeah, but I'm curious what is it that's missing? Does it not flow as well? Is the color mix slightly off? Does it dry differently? What does the agrax do that makes it special? Because to me, they look the same, and one is much cheaper. So what makes it special enough to be brought out at all, when you could do the whole thing with the homemade stuff and save all the agrax?
@@owenhouck5281 yeah, but I'm curious what is it that's missing? Does it not flow as well? Is the color mix slightly off? Does it dry differently? What does the agrax do that makes it special? Because to me, they look the same, and one is much cheaper. So what makes it special enough to be brought out at all, when you could do the whole thing with the homemade stuff and save all the agrax?
@@owenhouck5281 yeah, but I'm curious what is it that's missing? Does it not flow as well? Is the color mix slightly off? Does it dry differently? What does the agrax do that makes it special? Because to me, they look the same, and one is much cheaper. So what makes it special enough to be brought out at all, when you could do the whole thing with the homemade stuff and save all the agrax?
Those look amazing!!
amazing work
*GOBLIN GREEN!*
*GOBLIN GREEN!*
Na, Black Rim's every time. It's so CLEAN.
any alternatives for flow aid?
Great video, but as a complete beginner I got stomped pretty fast with your different homemade approaches. Maybe a turtorial video for beginners on how to make shades, washes etc. When to use what and stuff like that could be an idea? Dumb it down for us, you know ;)
Base rims ,should be black, this is the 1st commandment as laid down in the tombex Blanchitsu circa 1980.
GOBLIN GREEN! GOBLIN GREEEN!!!
Damn, I have been speed painting wrong
These look amazing…