Hi Mate, sorry to hear you were having trouble with your bike. As well as replacing your clutch plates, you absolutely need to re-route or adjust the clutch cable so it doesn't pull on the clutch arm when you turn the bars, as that is the cause of your problem. Also it is a good idea to change the engine oil and filter, as a slipping clutch will shed clutch fibres into the oil, as well as get hot enough to reduce the oil's lubricating properties. Safe travels.
99% of the time the clutch cable issue is not pulling on the clutch, it's only tight left handers (uturns) which are rare. This is not the cause of my premature clutch wear. The main cause is me trying to get up the rocks on Montana mountain. Other contenders include the sand in Carcross and the hills at mud lakes. It's user error.
Hey Eric, going back to one of the earlier vids I made a comment on how you "lug" the motor and gear box and how it is actually better to have higher revs and hold gears longer instead of labouring the engine with low revs and high gears placing a lot more load on the drivetrain. In my opinion after riding and racing bikes for 45 years you need to rev it more and hold gears longer especially with the weight, then add to that your clutch cable routing issues. It would be the same if you loaded up your van and tried to take off all the time with no revs on hills and then short shift you will blow through the clutch really fast.
For in the future: If your clutch starts slipping again and you want a quick fix you can do two things. 1 switch the plates around in your clutch that could give you an extra couple miles/kilometers. 2 carry a set of stainless steel washers with you that you can put between the clutch springs and the bolts that put pressure on the clutch plates. This saved on the side of the highway once and is a great way to make it home or to the nearest town.
its urban legend from rooky mech' to think that adding washers makes more pressure !! your springs are always at same load, & maybe less if there're "tired". with added washers you're only limiting the travel & slipping. It makes the action clutching not enough disengaging lined & metal discs ^^ To put MORE pressure, the only way is to swap for stronger springs of equal length than oem ones.
I've watched Eric for years on his mountain bike channel, but I know next to nothing about motos, so I'm really enjoying all the mechanical tips in the comments. Lots of hard earned wisdom for sure.
Suggestion... if you are travelling long distances, you should carry one spare clutch ring. This way you can add it to the pack as an emergency backup. It is not ideal, but will get you out of trouble. As for the shock seals, I would ALWAYS put boots on the forks so the dirt does not sit on the sliding parts.
I know there are some delay to these videos but just a quick bit of info from a 30 year bike tech that may help. That clutch got knackerd up on those rough rock sections and you being loaded down with stock gearing. When it's time for chain and sprockets I'd go up 2 or 3 on the back or drop one in the front. Also, HD springs and or some stainless washers on top of the springs are a great idea. Believe it or not the #1 failure for clutch on dirt bikes and atv's here at my shop is people using car oil in the crankcase. Stay away from that no matter what. Safe travels man. Really enjoying this series. Oh, also Barnett makes the hands down best clutch plates money can buy. They have kevlar and are light years better than anything else. The gearing will save that clutch more than anything though. Get that cable freed up as well, there are times when you take off and are turned to the left it could be pulling on it. Doesn't take much. You want a bit of free play throughout the steering travel lock to lock
Looking at him at that hills i would say on tooth less in front or 2-3 more in the back is not enough if he plans on more offroading. Not sure about the oil, i am doing hard enduro racing at relatively high level and use cheap car engine oil or ATF oil and have no problems and my clutch lasts really long time. Only on one bike i had to change plates many times and experimenting with quality gearbox oil made no difference.
@@maucina12 l can promise you on a bike with weight on pavement and high gearing, if you get a quality car oil with friction modifiers in it, a clutch like that 300 has, which is weak to begin with, is gonna slip. One tooth less in the front will be plenty and it'll be miserable out on the open road with any lower. I've tried a ton of different combos and that's about as low as you want for cross country like he's doing. Don't use that junk oil man. Rotella T4 is dirt cheap if you don't want to spend the money. If not, gn-4 honda oil is fantastic as well. Car oil doesn't have the resistance to the sheer effect from the gearbox either.
I love seeing that subscriber count go up for every video! My son and I love you, we've been watching all of your adventures since BCPOV. We get so excited every time we see your BCPOV sticker on the lift stanchion at Highland MTB Park in NH.
So glad I got recommended your channel the other day, I have binged all episodes up to now the last 4 days. Love your positive attitude and it’s so cool to watch your skills develop throughout your adventures. Best of luck for the rest of the spiral, I’ll be here watching from Sydney in Australia.
Regarding the fork seals. Once they get cleared or repaired put a gater on the forks . There are neoprene one online that open with velcro. This helps keep the dirt and dust from getting to the seals. I've had great luck with these.
Don’t worry too much. I also burned my clutch once when I was learning different slow maneuvering techniques. The burned out clutch is a part of a learning process. Especially when it comes to such a little engine pulling a fully loaded motorcycle with extended fuel tank through the tough terrain. The most important thing is that you know how clutch works and therefore know you can make it to the major town if you’re gentle with your throttle
Eric ! ... Keep slack in the cutch levers. You have the cable toooo tight . ... if you have bar risers on your bike you may need to reroute your cable so it isn't too short . It should not pull the clutch lever when turning the handle bars . Also . Pretty sure the KLX 300 R clutch cable is a little longer than the non R model. May want to buy one. You need to carry a extra set of clutch plates and clutch springs and bolts with you . Good luck.
So glad you made it back to Fairbanks, I haven’t looked through the comments so I apologise if someone has already said this. Your clutch probably wore out because of some of your early off road sections you were really riding it to try and get moving, especially on the mountain pass where you had turn around. Now your much more confident on the bike it should hopefully last much longer. Fork seals is just pure bad luck! But the main morel of today is “when pie is available EAT pie”!!! You should’ve ate the pie on your way up! Doh! Wishing you plain sailing from now on! Loving the channel!
New Zealand’s southern most driveable point is Thule Rd Stewart Is. You can get to Stuart Island with your bike by ferry from Bluff next to Stirling point.
I'm sure someone else has mentioned it. But you were using the seal saver wrong. You need to remove the dust seal first. That is not the seal you need to clean. You want to clean the actual seal, which is inside further. You remove the outer dust seal, then clean on the inner seal that holds the oil in.
As a modified klx300 owner myself i can tell you i had the same issue with the clucth cable, although i replaced it right away before getting my clutch slip. You may use a Kawasaki Kx 450 clutch cable, it is a little bit longer and pretty sure you will have the slack that you need to keep the cluctch being engaged all the time.. my bike has 10000 km, done the baja twice and have zero clucth issues. Hope this helps!! Saludos desde Mexcio!!!
This is why I hesitate to ride the Dempster or the Dalton. A ride I would enjoy, I'm sure, but the deal I made with my bike is you take care of me and I'll take care of you. I see him more as a travel companion than a machine. My friend blew out his fork seals on his brand new Tenere on the Dempster and your new bike lost them on the Dalton. Even just fasteners rattled loose can lead to something major in an environment that doesn't give a shit that I'm stuck in it. I do ride mixed surface a lot but not at those speeds for that long and my fork seal just started weeping at 40,000km. Like flag bro said, that road will chew up anything with wheels! I'm not sure I want to do that to my 2 wheeled buddy. The women and men riding to the Arctic ocean have more determination than I! And you are in that club now! Congratulations 🎊 I think it's super cool but my bike, Masami, and I will most likely turn back at the end of the Alaska Hwy in Fairbanks. Shoulda stuffed your guts with pie when you had the chance! That's disappointing 😢❤
Not boring at all, it's a pleasure to listen to you and watch your adventures continue, I'm looking forward to the continuation. Boring with things breaking but that's to be expected I guess. Keep it up!!!
RPM's are your friend, especially on that little motor. On those hills when you were trying to nurse the clutch, you want to be in a lower gear, but higher in the revs, that way you can maintain your speed without stressing the clutch. I've noticed that in general, you lug that little motor WAY too much, get that thing up higher in the rpms, those little motors love to rev.
Oil with JASO MA2(API SL-SM) approval helps the clutch not slip. Better synthetic. The play on the clutch lever on the handlebar should be about 1/2 inch. I advise that if you change the clutch, take one steel disk from the old one, this will help you on the road to independently restore the clutch to work where you cannot buy a new one.
@@truckergare That's right, another metal one is added! the disc and worn clutch begins to work. This method allows you to travel a long way to the workshop, but you need to have tools and experience in replacing discs.
Nice video about dealing with problems. You kept your spirits level which is important to solving situations. Had some issues on my last couple of trips (stator failure in Nevada desert, blown tire in South Carolina - hold too large to plug). Met some great people in the process though, so don't feel bad about asking for help. Capable people love to help out!
Oil leaks on forks and clutch slipping are ones of those problems you dont want to have especially when riding. It really makes it more difficult if you happen to be on a place with no shops or garage where you can stop by and have it repaired. Better also check your chain drive and make sure its well lubed at all times, you dont want to get stalled in aplace out of nowhere in case if it breaks. Have Safe ride man.😎👍💯 Im also enjoying watching your videos👍
It’s like any motorcycle you have to stay on top of the maintenance especially while putting it through the wringer. Keep that chain clean and lubed too
Hello bro some days are like that i think in my experience working on motor cycles For clutch plats & clutch cable : when you are changing the clutch plates change engine oil oil-filter due to clutch plates deposit. For good clutch life period Use fully synthetic engine oil,new oil-filter, good clutch cable play and lube clutch cable (if you dont have equipment for lubing you can use a small syringe bend needle and some engine oil)after you replacing a new pack of clutch plates either order new pack or same one or two pair of those old clutch pressure & friction plates. 13:40 That’s dust seal not fork oil seal , Usually fork oil seal lies under dust seal you need to get down the dust seal with flat head screw driver and put that thing under oil seal because oil sweeps from oil seal (due to dust contact or usual wear and tear) dust seal keeps dust coming from outside to inside oil seal keeps oil inside not spilling outside fork seal cleaner that method works for temporary if the dust scorched oil seal you can get fix by using new oil seal some kind of upside down fork sock & sorry for my bad English Safe travels ❤️ from 🇮🇳
In northern Alaska, particularly in areas with gravel roads like those found on the Dalton Highway, "Fresh Oil" signs are a warning to drivers about recent road maintenance. These signs typically indicate that the road has been recently treated with a layer of calcium chloride solution or other dust control agents. Here’s what it means: Dust Control and Stability: Gravel roads in remote areas are often sprayed with a liquid binding agent, such as calcium chloride or water mixed with oil-like substances, to suppress dust and stabilize the surface. This makes the road safer and reduces wear on vehicles. Slippery Conditions: When freshly applied, the treated surface can become slick, especially if it's wet. Drivers should reduce speed and be cautious to avoid losing traction. Vehicle Cleanup: The treatment can adhere to vehicles, potentially causing a mess, particularly on tires and undercarriages. In some cases, it may require extra cleaning to remove residues. If you're driving in these areas and see "Fresh Oil" signs, slow down, maintain extra distance from other vehicles, and take care when braking or cornering.
My 2018 CRF250 Rally, has reach 45k km.. so far no issue with the clutch, but i have prepared the part (in case it slipping like your case). Good luck Eric. I’l wait you in Indonesia.. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Sorry to hear about your troubles Eric. You did very well nursing you bike over such a long distance. Hopefully it won't be too costly and you can continue with your adventure.
Carry extra clutch plates zip tied to the back of the radiator fan. Can be old or new. Tip the bike on the side to change without dumping the oil. Also, a soda bottle cut into a tip like an ocean wave can clean the seals out.
Good stuff, dude-you’ve got this! The clutch is easy to handle. Just make sure to let the plates soak in oil before installation. If you can, let them soak for about 12 hours for optimal results. Let’s hope the gasket stays intact. Fork seals are totally doable-you just need a seal driver. Good luck! I will keep watching.
You just need a roll of electric tape for the seal driver. Wrap 1/4" thick band carefully around the slider and use that as the driver for the seal. Works great fits all forks and cheap.
You can pull one of the plates with the friction material out, break it in half, and re-insert it into the basket stacked on top of each other. This is obviously a last resort, but if you have no other choice... Carrying extra plates is going to be a must have for long term success. Make sure you're using oil without friction modifiers where possible.
Sorry about your issue here. I really enjoy your take on things, honesty and balls to take on such an adventure. As far as your clutch, if I may, synthetic oil is 100% ok with these bikes. 7,000 kms is nothing and most of these motorbikes will never need a new clutch as long as you own them.I know you installed bar risers and doing so can make the clutch cable too short and then too tight. At the clutch arm on the engine case, there should be 1/8" of free play at all times so the clutch is 100% disengaged. And yes, turning the handlebars left or right should have zero impact on your clutch. It also seems to me your clutch lever is butting against the guard, which is not good. You might have burned the clutch plates. Sometimes, after you find a way to have free play (maybe try to reroute the cable), let the bike cool down, it might be ok again. Once, I broke a transmission fork on a 125cc and the bike was stuck in 6th gear. As I had to return home through Paris and its traffic, I completely abused the clutch by "riding" it and it was 100% slipping. By the time I got home, I had zero clutch left. The next morning, all was back to normal and put another 20,000 kms on that clutch. Finger crossed you get back to 100% ASAP.
Any time you’re using a smaller lighter bike like a 350cc to do that sort of long distance travel while loaded down, it’s always imperative to beef up the clutch and suspension components. Especially if you plan to do the adventures through the woods like in the travel going up north. Definitely a good idea to keep some spare seals and plates for these smaller bike long hauls. 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Honestly if you're going to ride to Alaska on a bike, better to do a shake out run of 1-2k miles at home first, where you are not 400 km from the nearest town when you discover the clutch isn't up to snuff.
Glad you made it back to Fairbanks! I hate to break it to ya, but the breakdowns and fixes are probably the most interesting aspects of the adventure for us viewers (right up there with scenery)! Excited to see you fix it and get back on the road!
I own a Voge 300 Rally, and that is part of the reason I follow you. It is based on the same engine KLX300 but built by Loncin, who also makes engines for BMW. I dont think they are available in the US but in other European/Asian) for sure) countries they might. In case those parts, if ever needed, might be easier to obtain. I saw a bunch of vids of the Voge 300 Rally being tortured on brutal rally tracks and it held its own, also long distance (10K) no problems with the engine. To be sure I asked an AI (copilot) if those parts are compatible. "While some parts of the Voge 300 Rally engine might be compatible with the Kawasaki KLX300, it's essential to verify compatibility before making any replacements. For example, parts like the air cylinder block piston kit and head base gasket kit are compatible with both the KLX300 and Voge 300 Rally. However, it's always a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic or the manufacturer to ensure the parts will work correctly and safely in the specific motorcycle". Anyway, something to keep in the back of the head, we want you to do well and succeed. Cheers !
Always problems one way or another but not get any pie is bad! Anyone would think that 5pm would be the busy hours, but that Alaska. Really liking you channel Eric. Great job! P.S. Every time you post an episode, it seems like you have an extra 6k+ new subscribers.... That is totally awesome!
Wow! Multiple challenges! Keep up the courage, it's part of reaching your dreams.. I have been watching you since day 1 of your journey... I hope you can pass by the Philippines in the future.
I'm here screaming at the phone the whole time "just adjust the cable!” My klx had the same issue, the plates seemed to "wear in" and the cable needed to be adjusted to give it some slack so they'd fully engage.
@@Una_Moto Eric, I think that as rooky biker you have abused of "clutching" ;-) It's frequent mistake when driving a lot off-road travelling. Remember, it's a bad habit, especially if you need to travel far on harsh trails. Trough the replenish oil cap, try to smell the oil : when discs got been "cooked" the oil smell is characterised, a bit like automatic oil tranny that got burnt : but in this case you can see the oil turning brown instead of red when new. I dont know the color of the oil U use, but if it's light brown to yellow when it's new, it maybe hard to see the burnt state.
Hey Eric. I loved your videos on BCpov and I'm sure will love Una Moto at least as much. Keep up the good work, you're an inspiration in so many ways you won't even guess. Stay safe and al the best!
Man, tough day! I hope you get the parts you need. Please think about putting on fork gators when you put in the new seals. They really do help keep dirt out. You can even fashion some diy fork gators using a tire inner tube slipped over the forks and zip-tie at top and bottom. Ask the shop where you pick up your parts if they have any old inner tubes. Heavy duty trash can liners cut to size with duct tape and zip-ties can work in a pinch too. Good luck! Safe ridin'!
your clutch probably also spoiled the engine oil, so change that too, and proper clutch adjustment is key to having a long clutch life! fork seals, i say replace it now, and everyday before you start your ride, clean the silver tubes with a cloth, either dry or slighly damped with wd40. Also carry it with you, it can be helpful sometimes! along with cleaning your chain and also lubing it if you can!
Yippee - it's Tuesday! That means a new Una Moto episode! Mountain bikers only give up if they are lying down unconscious. Good on you for developing a solid plan and getting to Fairbanks.
Another great video wildman, sorry you missed out on that Pie!..Duuuude, you gotta name that bike!!!...@dirtpony and I are enjoying this adventure with you!!!..Have fun and ride safe!!!
I shared your disappointment over the Hilltop pies! I was looking forward to seeing them. Hopefully you’ll sort the mechanical issues for the next stage!!
When using the seal savers, pull down the dust cover (the first seal) and use it on the main seals. The dust cover on will not let the seal saver fully engage with the main seals.
Really I enjoyed the adventure, infact I was praying for reaching up to Fairbank safely. Later, It wad great relief to arrive in the town safely. Oh, we missed that great Pie!
There are certainly many things that you should expect to happen whether you are driving a motorcycle or a car, especially when you are driving on unpaved roads sometimes. But I hope that these are the last problems during your long trip.👍💪
Your modified tank kit is on the way to the clutch cable. The cable should be free and should not engage when the handles are turned. Otherwise, it will be like accelerating on half clutch which will again wear out or burn out your new clutch plates again. Check it before moving further with the new plates.
Order two cables. Route them both and tape the ends of the spare cable. And feel for free play on the engine side. Cable could be tight in the housing.
Advice for battery life! When you stop and switch off engine, turn off key as well, with light and NAV you are using only battery. would be a good routine and you will not forget it "ON" and have a surprise when you like start up again! Use only motorcycle syn. Engine oil because gearbox will last long! cheers and good luck!
Great video.. Its been a while since I've wrenched on a 300. As well as the adjustment on the handle bars for the clutch , I believe there is one more above the clutch cover( you'll see the cable move when you squeeze the lever). You should be able to get another 1/2 inch or so of adjustment. Try small intervals, one or two turns at a time . See if it feels better. Don't go too tight, Try and leave 1/8-1/4 inch play in the lever.. Good call on the fork seal cleaner too. Sometimes I have to clean and redo about 6-8 times. A little brake cleans helps to( its also good bear deterrent. lol) Keep up that great attitude and enjoy the ride. Watching from S.W Ontario Canada..
Clutch and fork seals all at once, what a shame. if I remember rightly it's important to adjust clutch with a hot engne, there should always be a small amount of slack in the cable with the handle bars at full lock (both sides) hoping you're able to fix it and it doesn't hold you up too long! Ride safe.
I think your attempt at the steep rocky trails in Canada and the Ice tunnel. Is where you wore out your clutch. Might wanna get an extra set with springs. Your more than likely gonna need to change them again before your trip is over.
Did you get the right (wetclutch motorcycle) motor oil? Some motor oils have friction modifiers and are not designed for wet clutches. If that's the case changing the oil and cleaning the clutch plates with brake cleaner will do the job. no need for clutch plates. Good luck and a nice(safe) adventures!
Glad you made it …. I would get a new clutch cable as well, or at least make sure it is set correctly …. It should not be engaging the clutch when you turn the bars …. But, I am sure you have that all sorted by now ….. enjoy the rest of the spiral :)
Make sure you use the right kind oil. One that's meant for 'wet clutch' applications; not dry clutch. And, as someone else said, completely drain and replace the oil, as the old oil will have a sh!t load of clutch fibers in it.
Hopefully you’ve replaced the clutch springs too! Those are likely sacked (lost tension), which is causing your clutch plates to slip. If not, your new friction plates likely won’t last long & you’ll end up in the same predicament all over again. You can always add washers to increase the pre-load of the sacked springs…if you don’t have new ones to install.
The fact that your clutch has been operating slightly when you turn the bars means that it will have caused premature wear and tear, you need to sort that out as well as replacing your clutch. Along with new oil and filter.
Eric. I would think that the clutch was not adjusted properly. Maybe a warranty issue. Clutch should last much longer than that. I would take some clutch plates as spares. Also fork seals as spares. Good luck. I enjoy your adventures
I suppose all this happened months ago but I doubt whether the clutch wore out that quickly. The dust that got in the forks seals may well have also got in the clutch cable and caused that to bind. There is probably also adjustment for the clutch pushrod which may need adjusting.
This could help. EBC heavy duty clutch plates EBC (CK4469) and EBC heavy springs (CSK144) last much longer than OEM originals on the KLX. Kawasaki plates on mine lasted 40Ks and the EBC ones are in 70Ks with still no failure
Although I admire you for choosing the klx300, the reailty is a crf300, drz400, dr650 would all have been more reliable options. I know many have already done it on these bikes, but they're tried and tested I admire the fact you're out there and doing what many dream of and never attempt, good luck mate👍👍
You need free play in the clutch lever. I have noticed a lot of riders that take the free play out of the clutch lever thinking that is how it is supposed to operate but it should have 6-10mm free play.
Eric, about your engine oil, it's important to be sure that the oil is compliant with wet clutch !! The oil canister got to have this very motorbike spec : it must be "JASO MA / MA2" certified.
If you have no option to get a new longer cable. you could adjust the handle to be more on the inside of your bar. to make some room on the cable. also adjust the cable to be fully turned in.. this will assure you have the most bite from the clutch, but this will make shifting harder. good luck reaching your destination.
Thats my default comment when everything goes south. • "Well, at least its not raining." • "Well, at least its not hot." Theres some abrasive sands your way.
After watching your first few videos, it was only matter time for clutch. Forks seals bad. Happened to me on ride out to McCarthy. I sure hope you didn't replace them. No need. Get the Seal Mate tool or make one to clean out dirt. Get fork sleeves.
You are still in "friendly" countries for bike parts like clutch. Have you planned for this contingency for parts in less friendly countries? Great, compelling videos. Keep up the great journey.
@@ABrider-f1c very true. It’s still probably easier for him to get it handled while in NA though. I like to be over prepared and wouldn’t wanna cross over without a kit ready to go at least
Sorry mate. But you are like most of us, learning on the go :-) Using the fork seal cleaner will now be part of your regular maintenance in the future. And regarding the clutch you tend to ride on relatively low revs. That is hard on the engine and also on the clutch. Combined with a too-tight cable killed it. But try to change gear more often to get a little higher revs. Especially in the slow stuff … Love you did'nt forget the PIE - you deserved it! Keep going :-)
My last comment, I didnot previously had time to look at the VDO !! BUt I'm sure, like others said : You'd made too quick when U've installed the travelling kit : the cable clutch got a bad routing ! the discs have been cooked during off-road sessions when you ought to often turn the handlebars R & L. If it only needs a proper routing, it's no big deal, but maybe it could ask for a bit longer cable ?
The higher you keep your revs the less torque you're applying on the clutch .. that's how I drove my 2003 Audi 5spd when it's cluth was going ... it was at low rpms' that it's putting the highest load on the clutch
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Hi Mate, sorry to hear you were having trouble with your bike. As well as replacing your clutch plates, you absolutely need to re-route or adjust the clutch cable so it doesn't pull on the clutch arm when you turn the bars, as that is the cause of your problem. Also it is a good idea to change the engine oil and filter, as a slipping clutch will shed clutch fibres into the oil, as well as get hot enough to reduce the oil's lubricating properties. Safe travels.
This is some real decent advise. When riding with tension on your clutch cable, it wears the plates out fast.
Need about 1/8 " of free play between the clutch lever and perch before it engages to make sure you don't have this issue.
And it probably needs a better set of clutch springs... Or maybe add washers. ?
That's what happens when you modify the cockpit and don't lengthen cables! Don't cut corners!
Good advice 👍
99% of the time the clutch cable issue is not pulling on the clutch, it's only tight left handers (uturns) which are rare. This is not the cause of my premature clutch wear. The main cause is me trying to get up the rocks on Montana mountain. Other contenders include the sand in Carcross and the hills at mud lakes.
It's user error.
Eric,
Keep kicking ass my brother! This should cover a set of plates for you.
-Envious fellow KLX300 rider
nice man
👏
Great
Hey Eric, going back to one of the earlier vids I made a comment on how you "lug" the motor and gear box and how it is actually better to have higher revs and hold gears longer instead of labouring the engine with low revs and high gears placing a lot more load on the drivetrain. In my opinion after riding and racing bikes for 45 years you need to rev it more and hold gears longer especially with the weight, then add to that your clutch cable routing issues. It would be the same if you loaded up your van and tried to take off all the time with no revs on hills and then short shift you will blow through the clutch really fast.
I thought the same thing but I thought maybe I just wasn’t hearing it correctly, my old ears don’t work well anymore
For in the future: If your clutch starts slipping again and you want a quick fix you can do two things. 1 switch the plates around in your clutch that could give you an extra couple miles/kilometers. 2 carry a set of stainless steel washers with you that you can put between the clutch springs and the bolts that put pressure on the clutch plates. This saved on the side of the highway once and is a great way to make it home or to the nearest town.
its urban legend from rooky mech' to think that adding washers makes more pressure !!
your springs are always at same load, & maybe less if there're "tired". with added washers you're only limiting the travel & slipping.
It makes the action clutching not enough disengaging lined & metal discs ^^
To put MORE pressure, the only way is to swap for stronger springs of equal length than oem ones.
Hook's law is F=kx
k can't be changed without changing the spring, but if you compress the spring more (x) you get more force (F).
I've watched Eric for years on his mountain bike channel, but I know next to nothing about motos, so I'm really enjoying all the mechanical tips in the comments. Lots of hard earned wisdom for sure.
Suggestion... if you are travelling long distances, you should carry one spare clutch ring. This way you can add it to the pack as an emergency backup. It is not ideal, but will get you out of trouble. As for the shock seals, I would ALWAYS put boots on the forks so the dirt does not sit on the sliding parts.
I know there are some delay to these videos but just a quick bit of info from a 30 year bike tech that may help. That clutch got knackerd up on those rough rock sections and you being loaded down with stock gearing. When it's time for chain and sprockets I'd go up 2 or 3 on the back or drop one in the front. Also, HD springs and or some stainless washers on top of the springs are a great idea. Believe it or not the #1 failure for clutch on dirt bikes and atv's here at my shop is people using car oil in the crankcase. Stay away from that no matter what. Safe travels man. Really enjoying this series. Oh, also Barnett makes the hands down best clutch plates money can buy. They have kevlar and are light years better than anything else. The gearing will save that clutch more than anything though. Get that cable freed up as well, there are times when you take off and are turned to the left it could be pulling on it. Doesn't take much. You want a bit of free play throughout the steering travel lock to lock
Looking at him at that hills i would say on tooth less in front or 2-3 more in the back is not enough if he plans on more offroading. Not sure about the oil, i am doing hard enduro racing at relatively high level and use cheap car engine oil or ATF oil and have no problems and my clutch lasts really long time. Only on one bike i had to change plates many times and experimenting with quality gearbox oil made no difference.
@@maucina12 l can promise you on a bike with weight on pavement and high gearing, if you get a quality car oil with friction modifiers in it, a clutch like that 300 has, which is weak to begin with, is gonna slip. One tooth less in the front will be plenty and it'll be miserable out on the open road with any lower. I've tried a ton of different combos and that's about as low as you want for cross country like he's doing. Don't use that junk oil man. Rotella T4 is dirt cheap if you don't want to spend the money. If not, gn-4 honda oil is fantastic as well. Car oil doesn't have the resistance to the sheer effect from the gearbox either.
I love seeing that subscriber count go up for every video! My son and I love you, we've been watching all of your adventures since BCPOV. We get so excited every time we see your BCPOV sticker on the lift stanchion at Highland MTB Park in NH.
Oooh, so cool that the sticker is still there! Thanks so much for following along guys!
So glad I got recommended your channel the other day, I have binged all episodes up to now the last 4 days. Love your positive attitude and it’s so cool to watch your skills develop throughout your adventures. Best of luck for the rest of the spiral, I’ll be here watching from Sydney in Australia.
Regarding the fork seals. Once they get cleared or repaired put a gater on the forks . There are neoprene one online that open with velcro. This helps keep the dirt and dust from getting to the seals. I've had great luck with these.
Almost 42k! I want to see this channel grow and see you in NZ!
Don’t worry too much. I also burned my clutch once when I was learning different slow maneuvering techniques. The burned out clutch is a part of a learning process. Especially when it comes to such a little engine pulling a fully loaded motorcycle with extended fuel tank through the tough terrain. The most important thing is that you know how clutch works and therefore know you can make it to the major town if you’re gentle with your throttle
Thanks for that Alex 🙏
Very poor choice in bike. Way too small for what your asking of it.
@@RayFinkle He does not look to be carrying much weight, slim figure. Most guys his age are 18 stone!
Eric ! ... Keep slack in the cutch levers. You have the cable toooo tight . ... if you have bar risers on your bike you may need to reroute your cable so it isn't too short . It should not pull the clutch lever when turning the handle bars . Also . Pretty sure the KLX 300 R clutch cable is a little longer than the non R model. May want to buy one. You need to carry a extra set of clutch plates and clutch springs and bolts with you . Good luck.
Everything will get better, upload the repair video too, the technical content is also interesting, good luck to you, madman!!!
Buena suerte con la reparación Eric!
Esperamos noticias en siguiente video!
Y a continuar el viaje!💪🏻
Vamos con vos 🏍🌎 desde Argentina🇦🇷
So glad you made it back to Fairbanks, I haven’t looked through the comments so I apologise if someone has already said this. Your clutch probably wore out because of some of your early off road sections you were really riding it to try and get moving, especially on the mountain pass where you had turn around. Now your much more confident on the bike it should hopefully last much longer. Fork seals is just pure bad luck! But the main morel of today is “when pie is available EAT pie”!!! You should’ve ate the pie on your way up! Doh! Wishing you plain sailing from now on! Loving the channel!
New Zealand’s southern most driveable point is Thule Rd Stewart Is. You can get to Stuart Island
with your bike by ferry from Bluff next to Stirling point.
I'm sure someone else has mentioned it. But you were using the seal saver wrong. You need to remove the dust seal first. That is not the seal you need to clean. You want to clean the actual seal, which is inside further. You remove the outer dust seal, then clean on the inner seal that holds the oil in.
Unfortunately I learned this after :) Mountain biker here.. our forks only have the outer seal.
@@Una_Motomight just be the style of forks you ran. My Shivers, Monster T, and my 888RC’s all have the dust wiper and then the inner oil seal.
As a modified klx300 owner myself i can tell you i had the same issue with the clucth cable, although i replaced it right away before getting my clutch slip. You may use a Kawasaki Kx 450 clutch cable, it is a little bit longer and pretty sure you will have the slack that you need to keep the cluctch being engaged all the time.. my bike has 10000 km, done the baja twice and have zero clucth issues. Hope this helps!!
Saludos desde Mexcio!!!
This is why I hesitate to ride the Dempster or the Dalton. A ride I would enjoy, I'm sure, but the deal I made with my bike is you take care of me and I'll take care of you. I see him more as a travel companion than a machine. My friend blew out his fork seals on his brand new Tenere on the Dempster and your new bike lost them on the Dalton. Even just fasteners rattled loose can lead to something major in an environment that doesn't give a shit that I'm stuck in it. I do ride mixed surface a lot but not at those speeds for that long and my fork seal just started weeping at 40,000km. Like flag bro said, that road will chew up anything with wheels! I'm not sure I want to do that to my 2 wheeled buddy. The women and men riding to the Arctic ocean have more determination than I! And you are in that club now! Congratulations 🎊 I think it's super cool but my bike, Masami, and I will most likely turn back at the end of the Alaska Hwy in Fairbanks. Shoulda stuffed your guts with pie when you had the chance! That's disappointing 😢❤
Not boring at all, it's a pleasure to listen to you and watch your adventures continue, I'm looking forward to the continuation. Boring with things breaking but that's to be expected I guess. Keep it up!!!
RPM's are your friend, especially on that little motor. On those hills when you were trying to nurse the clutch, you want to be in a lower gear, but higher in the revs, that way you can maintain your speed without stressing the clutch. I've noticed that in general, you lug that little motor WAY too much, get that thing up higher in the rpms, those little motors love to rev.
Oil with JASO MA2(API SL-SM) approval helps the clutch not slip. Better synthetic. The play on the clutch lever on the handlebar should be about 1/2 inch. I advise that if you change the clutch, take one steel disk from the old one, this will help you on the road to independently restore the clutch to work where you cannot buy a new one.
1/8" and no more, shell Rotella 10/40 is the go to oil.
your saying too add it to the worn out clutch plates, by adding the old plate to the the rest of the worn out plates ?
@@truckergare That's right, another metal one is added! the disc and worn clutch begins to work. This method allows you to travel a long way to the workshop, but you need to have tools and experience in replacing discs.
Hi, thanks for the subtitles. I'm following you from Slovakia 👍 I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you 🤞 on your journey
are the subtitle okay to read? I'm using a tool to translate and I don't know if the quality is okay or not.
@Una_Moto yes, the translation is fine.👍
I write through a translator, my English is weak, so the subtitles suit me. Thank you for your work.
Nice video about dealing with problems. You kept your spirits level which is important to solving situations. Had some issues on my last couple of trips (stator failure in Nevada desert, blown tire in South Carolina - hold too large to plug). Met some great people in the process though, so don't feel bad about asking for help. Capable people love to help out!
Great stuff! This is getting better and better. There's nothing like someone else's misfortune to raise a smile.
Oil leaks on forks and clutch slipping are ones of those problems you dont want to have especially when riding. It really makes it more difficult if you happen to be on a place with no shops or garage where you can stop by and have it repaired. Better also check your chain drive and make sure its well lubed at all times, you dont want to get stalled in aplace out of nowhere in case if it breaks. Have Safe ride man.😎👍💯
Im also enjoying watching your videos👍
It’s like any motorcycle you have to stay on top of the maintenance especially while putting it through the wringer. Keep that chain clean and lubed too
First view. Me and my wife is enjoying your journey so far. Good luck and be safe wherever you are.
Hello bro some days are like that
i think in my experience working on motor cycles
For clutch plats & clutch cable : when you are changing the clutch plates change engine oil oil-filter due to clutch plates deposit. For good clutch life period Use fully synthetic engine oil,new oil-filter, good clutch cable play and lube clutch cable (if you dont have equipment for lubing you can use a small syringe bend needle and some engine oil)after you replacing a new pack of clutch plates either order new pack or same one or two pair of those old clutch pressure & friction plates.
13:40 That’s dust seal not fork oil seal , Usually fork oil seal lies under dust seal you need to get down the dust seal with flat head screw driver and put that thing under oil seal because oil sweeps from oil seal (due to dust contact or usual wear and tear) dust seal keeps dust coming from outside to inside oil seal keeps oil inside not spilling outside fork seal cleaner that method works for temporary if the dust scorched oil seal you can get fix by using new oil seal some kind of upside down fork sock
& sorry for my bad English
Safe travels ❤️ from 🇮🇳
Maybe on a lot of dirt roads you could ziptie rags around the fork dust covers to help keep dust out of the dust seals.
Cheers from an Italian who lives in Hungary and just discover your channel
In northern Alaska, particularly in areas with gravel roads like those found on the Dalton Highway, "Fresh Oil" signs are a warning to drivers about recent road maintenance. These signs typically indicate that the road has been recently treated with a layer of calcium chloride solution or other dust control agents.
Here’s what it means:
Dust Control and Stability: Gravel roads in remote areas are often sprayed with a liquid binding agent, such as calcium chloride or water mixed with oil-like substances, to suppress dust and stabilize the surface. This makes the road safer and reduces wear on vehicles.
Slippery Conditions: When freshly applied, the treated surface can become slick, especially if it's wet. Drivers should reduce speed and be cautious to avoid losing traction.
Vehicle Cleanup: The treatment can adhere to vehicles, potentially causing a mess, particularly on tires and undercarriages. In some cases, it may require extra cleaning to remove residues.
If you're driving in these areas and see "Fresh Oil" signs, slow down, maintain extra distance from other vehicles, and take care when braking or cornering.
Fair enough, except the road here was paved.
MMM yeahhh very peculiar!!!
My 2018 CRF250 Rally, has reach 45k km.. so far no issue with the clutch, but i have prepared the part (in case it slipping like your case). Good luck Eric. I’l wait you in Indonesia.. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Sorry to hear about your troubles Eric. You did very well nursing you bike over such a long distance. Hopefully it won't be too costly and you can continue with your adventure.
Carry extra clutch plates zip tied to the back of the radiator fan. Can be old or new. Tip the bike on the side to change without dumping the oil. Also, a soda bottle cut into a tip like an ocean wave can clean the seals out.
Good stuff, dude-you’ve got this! The clutch is easy to handle. Just make sure to let the plates soak in oil before installation. If you can, let them soak for about 12 hours for optimal results. Let’s hope the gasket stays intact. Fork seals are totally doable-you just need a seal driver. Good luck! I will keep watching.
You just need a roll of electric tape for the seal driver. Wrap 1/4" thick band carefully around the slider and use that as the driver for the seal. Works great fits all forks and cheap.
@ that sounds like a cool hack. I’ll try that. Thank you.
@@matzenhuber passing along info that has worked well for me for years now.
You can pull one of the plates with the friction material out, break it in half, and re-insert it into the basket stacked on top of each other. This is obviously a last resort, but if you have no other choice... Carrying extra plates is going to be a must have for long term success. Make sure you're using oil without friction modifiers where possible.
Not possible on my bike unless I bring along a breaker bar, unfortunately.
@@Una_Moto Isn't there a separate clutch cover? What's the breaker bar for?
That trick requires an experienced rider because after that procedure you have a 100% (of the time) engaged clutch. Very difficult to start moving.
Sorry about your issue here. I really enjoy your take on things, honesty and balls to take on such an adventure. As far as your clutch, if I may, synthetic oil is 100% ok with these bikes. 7,000 kms is nothing and most of these motorbikes will never need a new clutch as long as you own them.I know you installed bar risers and doing so can make the clutch cable too short and then too tight. At the clutch arm on the engine case, there should be 1/8" of free play at all times so the clutch is 100% disengaged. And yes, turning the handlebars left or right should have zero impact on your clutch. It also seems to me your clutch lever is butting against the guard, which is not good. You might have burned the clutch plates. Sometimes, after you find a way to have free play (maybe try to reroute the cable), let the bike cool down, it might be ok again. Once, I broke a transmission fork on a 125cc and the bike was stuck in 6th gear. As I had to return home through Paris and its traffic, I completely abused the clutch by "riding" it and it was 100% slipping. By the time I got home, I had zero clutch left. The next morning, all was back to normal and put another 20,000 kms on that clutch. Finger crossed you get back to 100% ASAP.
It would be ironic if this is the issue. This happened in Iran to Noraly with her first Himalayan.
Any time you’re using a smaller lighter bike like a 350cc to do that sort of long distance travel while loaded down, it’s always imperative to beef up the clutch and suspension components. Especially if you plan to do the adventures through the woods like in the travel going up north. Definitely a good idea to keep some spare seals and plates for these smaller bike long hauls. 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Honestly if you're going to ride to Alaska on a bike, better to do a shake out run of 1-2k miles at home first, where you are not 400 km from the nearest town when you discover the clutch isn't up to snuff.
Glad you made it back to Fairbanks! I hate to break it to ya, but the breakdowns and fixes are probably the most interesting aspects of the adventure for us viewers (right up there with scenery)! Excited to see you fix it and get back on the road!
Eric, great job working yourself through the issues👏👏 Congratulations on 41k subscribers 🎉 next stop 50k🤛🤛
I own a Voge 300 Rally, and that is part of the reason I follow you. It is based on the same engine KLX300 but built by Loncin, who also makes engines for BMW. I dont think they are available in the US but in other European/Asian) for sure) countries they might. In case those parts, if ever needed, might be easier to obtain.
I saw a bunch of vids of the Voge 300 Rally being tortured on brutal rally tracks and it held its own, also long distance (10K) no problems with the engine.
To be sure I asked an AI (copilot) if those parts are compatible.
"While some parts of the Voge 300 Rally engine might be compatible with the Kawasaki KLX300, it's essential to verify compatibility before making any replacements. For example, parts like the air cylinder block piston kit and head base gasket kit are compatible with both the KLX300 and Voge 300 Rally. However, it's always a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic or the manufacturer to ensure the parts will work correctly and safely in the specific motorcycle".
Anyway, something to keep in the back of the head, we want you to do well and succeed. Cheers !
Always problems one way or another but not get any pie is bad! Anyone would think that 5pm would be the busy hours, but that Alaska.
Really liking you channel Eric. Great job!
P.S. Every time you post an episode, it seems like you have an extra 6k+ new subscribers.... That is totally awesome!
Wow! Multiple challenges!
Keep up the courage, it's part of reaching your dreams.. I have been watching you since day 1 of your journey...
I hope you can pass by the Philippines in the future.
I'm here screaming at the phone the whole time "just adjust the cable!” My klx had the same issue, the plates seemed to "wear in" and the cable needed to be adjusted to give it some slack so they'd fully engage.
you can see when i pull over the clutch lever has plenty of free play.
@@Una_Moto Eric, I think that as rooky biker you have abused of "clutching" ;-) It's frequent mistake when driving a lot off-road travelling. Remember, it's a bad habit, especially if you need to travel far on harsh trails.
Trough the replenish oil cap, try to smell the oil : when discs got been "cooked" the oil smell is characterised,
a bit like automatic oil tranny that got burnt : but in this case you can see the oil turning brown instead of red when new.
I dont know the color of the oil U use, but if it's light brown to yellow when it's new, it maybe hard to see the burnt state.
Hey Eric. I loved your videos on BCpov and I'm sure will love Una Moto at least as much. Keep up the good work, you're an inspiration in so many ways you won't even guess. Stay safe and al the best!
Nice guy. Wish him the best!
Man, tough day! I hope you get the parts you need. Please think about putting on fork gators when you put in the new seals. They really do help keep dirt out. You can even fashion some diy fork gators using a tire inner tube slipped over the forks and zip-tie at top and bottom. Ask the shop where you pick up your parts if they have any old inner tubes. Heavy duty trash can liners cut to size with duct tape and zip-ties can work in a pinch too. Good luck! Safe ridin'!
your clutch probably also spoiled the engine oil, so change that too, and proper clutch adjustment is key to having a long clutch life!
fork seals, i say replace it now, and everyday before you start your ride, clean the silver tubes with a cloth, either dry or slighly damped with wd40. Also carry it with you, it can be helpful sometimes! along with cleaning your chain and also lubing it if you can!
Yippee - it's Tuesday! That means a new Una Moto episode! Mountain bikers only give up if they are lying down unconscious. Good on you for developing a solid plan and getting to Fairbanks.
Great stuff Eric. I'm looking forward to hearing how the repairs go. As for the pie... I'm devastated 😢
Another great video wildman, sorry you missed out on that Pie!..Duuuude, you gotta name that bike!!!...@dirtpony and I are enjoying this adventure with you!!!..Have fun and ride safe!!!
I shared your disappointment over the Hilltop pies! I was looking forward to seeing them. Hopefully you’ll sort the mechanical issues for the next stage!!
You are handling the adversity very well, young man.
When using the seal savers, pull down the dust cover (the first seal) and use it on the main seals. The dust cover on will not let the seal saver fully engage with the main seals.
Unfortunately I learned this after :) Mountain biker here.. our forks only have the outer seal.
Really I enjoyed the adventure, infact I was praying for reaching up to Fairbank safely.
Later, It wad great relief to arrive in the town safely.
Oh, we missed that great Pie!
Always something happens. That´s life. But You solve the problem. Good luck Eric. Regards from Rudi👍👍
Safe travels sir. Look forward to see you travel the world. Greetings from Arizona
Keep rolling! All the extra weight will cause normal wear items to need to be replaces earlier.
There are certainly many things that you should expect to happen whether you are driving a motorcycle or a car, especially when you are driving on unpaved roads sometimes. But I hope that these are the last problems during your long trip.👍💪
Check the routing of the clutch cable for interference from the installation of the oversized tank. It’s likely getting hung up along the fuel tank.
Your modified tank kit is on the way to the clutch cable. The cable should be free and should not engage when the handles are turned. Otherwise, it will be like accelerating on half clutch which will again wear out or burn out your new clutch plates again. Check it before moving further with the new plates.
Order two cables. Route them both and tape the ends of the spare cable. And feel for free play on the engine side. Cable could be tight in the housing.
Not surprised that the clutch is out.
The sort of hammering it got in the first few episodes was a lot..
Advice for battery life! When you stop and switch off engine, turn off key as well, with light and NAV you are using only battery. would be a good routine and you will not forget it "ON" and have a surprise when you like start up again! Use only motorcycle syn. Engine oil because gearbox will last long! cheers and good luck!
Great video.. Its been a while since I've wrenched on a 300. As well as the adjustment on the handle bars for the clutch , I believe there is one more above the clutch cover( you'll see the cable move when you squeeze the lever). You should be able to get another 1/2 inch or so of adjustment. Try small intervals, one or two turns at a time . See if it feels better. Don't go too tight, Try and leave 1/8-1/4 inch play in the lever.. Good call on the fork seal cleaner too. Sometimes I have to clean and redo about 6-8 times. A little brake cleans helps to( its also good bear deterrent. lol) Keep up that great attitude and enjoy the ride. Watching from S.W Ontario Canada..
Clutch and fork seals all at once, what a shame. if I remember rightly it's important to adjust clutch with a hot engne, there should always be a small amount of slack in the cable with the handle bars at full lock (both sides) hoping you're able to fix it and it doesn't hold you up too long! Ride safe.
I think your attempt at the steep rocky trails in Canada and the Ice tunnel. Is where you wore out your clutch. Might wanna get an extra set with springs. Your more than likely gonna need to change them again before your trip is over.
Did you get the right (wetclutch motorcycle) motor oil? Some motor oils have friction modifiers and are not designed for wet clutches. If that's the case changing the oil and cleaning the clutch plates with brake cleaner will do the job. no need for clutch plates. Good luck and a nice(safe) adventures!
Glad you made it …. I would get a new clutch cable as well, or at least make sure it is set correctly …. It should not be engaging the clutch when you turn the bars …. But, I am sure you have that all sorted by now ….. enjoy the rest of the spiral :)
Find myself looking forward to another adventure ep.
Make sure you use the right kind oil. One that's meant for 'wet clutch' applications; not dry clutch.
And, as someone else said, completely drain and replace the oil, as the old oil will have a sh!t load of clutch fibers in it.
Great vid. Love motorcycle and learning from your vlogs.
Hopefully you’ve replaced the clutch springs too! Those are likely sacked (lost tension), which is causing your clutch plates to slip. If not, your new friction plates likely won’t last long & you’ll end up in the same predicament all over again.
You can always add washers to increase the pre-load of the sacked springs…if you don’t have new ones to install.
The fact that your clutch has been operating slightly when you turn the bars means that it will have caused premature wear and tear, you need to sort that out as well as replacing your clutch. Along with new oil and filter.
Eric. I would think that the clutch was not adjusted properly. Maybe a warranty issue. Clutch should last much longer than that. I would take some clutch plates as spares. Also fork seals as spares. Good luck. I enjoy your adventures
I suppose all this happened months ago but I doubt whether the clutch wore out that quickly. The dust that got in the forks seals may well have also got in the clutch cable and caused that to bind. There is probably also adjustment for the clutch pushrod which may need adjusting.
This could help. EBC heavy duty clutch plates EBC (CK4469) and EBC heavy springs (CSK144) last much longer than OEM originals on the KLX. Kawasaki plates on mine lasted 40Ks and the EBC ones are in 70Ks with still no failure
Although I admire you for choosing the klx300, the reailty is a crf300, drz400, dr650 would all have been more reliable options. I know many have already done it on these bikes, but they're tried and tested
I admire the fact you're out there and doing what many dream of and never attempt, good luck mate👍👍
The KLX 300 was not built with cross country rides in mind especially on bad roads and trails.
Yup he shoulda got a Honda 250l or 300l, I would never trust a klx on a long trip like this. Dr650 would be good too if he wasn’t such a noob.
Probably happened with the install of the prototype tanks and the routing of the clutch cable. Turning the bars should not move the cable.
Concur- probably needs a little longer cable.😊
You need free play in the clutch lever. I have noticed a lot of riders that take the free play out of the clutch lever thinking that is how it is supposed to operate but it should have 6-10mm free play.
Having fun watching!
Remember the adventure begins when the plan fails. Do not let the problems distract you from your goals. Stay safe and enjoy the ride.
Heck yeah! New video!!
Hi, fellow rider here… if you get to Darwin Australia and need a place to rest, repair etc etc… I’ve got room, bikes, tools etc…. Safe travels mate…
The clutch cable on a klx is short from the factory, if you put fatter bars and risers on, you need a longer cable
U have alot of knowledge for a beginner rider.. I think u have the skills to upgrade to a bigger motorcycle
Eric, about your engine oil, it's important to be sure that the oil is compliant with wet clutch !!
The oil canister got to have this very motorbike spec :
it must be "JASO MA / MA2" certified.
yup, had that covered!
Good timing. I'll be watching as you replace the clutch plates while I do the same on my old honda with 55k miles on it.
good luck for all the rest
If you have no option to get a new longer cable. you could adjust the handle to be more on the inside of your bar. to make some room on the cable. also adjust the cable to be fully turned in.. this will assure you have the most bite from the clutch, but this will make shifting harder. good luck reaching your destination.
I've watched Lydon Poskitt and Itchy boots both around the world. And Now You. I also love riding. From Saskatoon.
Get some fork boots to protect those seals. Good luck. I think you can release the clutch cable tension by loosening a clamp under the tank. Cheers
Thats my default comment when everything goes south.
• "Well, at least its not raining."
• "Well, at least its not hot."
Theres some abrasive sands your way.
I was thinking it would be a good idea to carry a few extra clutch plates. Some ADV riders attach them to the back of the radiator fans with zip ties.
After watching your first few videos, it was only matter time for clutch.
Forks seals bad. Happened to me on ride out to McCarthy. I sure hope you didn't replace them. No need. Get the Seal Mate tool or make one to clean out dirt. Get fork sleeves.
You are still in "friendly" countries for bike parts like clutch. Have you planned for this contingency for parts in less friendly countries? Great, compelling videos. Keep up the great journey.
100% I hope he works up to a good kit of spares before he leaves North America.
@@Theoloop I mean he's going to Europe next it's not a bad place for parts lol
@@ABrider-f1c very true. It’s still probably easier for him to get it handled while in NA though. I like to be over prepared and wouldn’t wanna cross over without a kit ready to go at least
And also, it's winter here in Canada and Alaska lol. It's been recorded months ago, so he's probably already in another part of the world.
@@ABrider-f1c The KLX 300 is not sold in Europe so he definitely will need spares.
Sorry mate. But you are like most of us, learning on the go :-) Using the fork seal cleaner will now be part of your regular maintenance in the future. And regarding the clutch you tend to ride on relatively low revs. That is hard on the engine and also on the clutch. Combined with a too-tight cable killed it. But try to change gear more often to get a little higher revs. Especially in the slow stuff … Love you did'nt forget the PIE - you deserved it! Keep going :-)
My last comment, I didnot previously had time to look at the VDO !! BUt I'm sure, like others said :
You'd made too quick when U've installed the travelling kit : the cable clutch got a bad routing ! the discs have been cooked during off-road sessions when you ought to often turn the handlebars R & L. If it only needs a proper routing, it's no big deal, but maybe it could ask for a bit longer cable ?
The higher you keep your revs the less torque you're applying on the clutch .. that's how I drove my 2003 Audi 5spd when it's cluth was going ... it was at low rpms' that it's putting the highest load on the clutch