Honestly, I thought I did better watching the video vs when I was actually doing it. Turned out pretty decent I feel like, but agree that a coulter would have been a nice upgrade to cut the sod. Get more information the plow here: www.goodworkstractors.com/product/ironcraft-moldboard-plow-6100-6200-series/
@@tlm3574we still have plowing competitions here in eastern Canada. I plow with a 1969 massey Ferguson 135 and a 13” bottom Kverneland 2 furrow conventional
Im just an armchair warrior so it's easy for me to say this because I'm not doing it. Ive worked with the elderly for years. I have had the privilege to work with some real old timers. An old time farmer who is now passed once told me the harder the soil the easier to plow. He used to plow with horses and then moved to the tractors with metal tires. So it might be easier to plow if you waited for a dry spell so the soil is harder. I know sometimes it just needs to get done and you can't wait. Thought it might be something to mention. Keep doing the vides love them.
Regarding starting in the middle, yes that is correct, but you swap sides every pass. Yes, the first pass you will be driving on the mound from the first pass, but each subsequent pass will work as normal as you work your way out from the middle.
I think you are correct. In this video the tractor is only plowing half the time and then returning to the other end half the time. More efficient to plow both directions. The only drawback is that it leaves a row in the middle where the dirt is piled deeper because the tractor has thrown soil from both sides. The part I dislike about plowing is when your furrow isn't smooth, when there is soil that didn't clear the furrow, then you drive over it on the next pass which lifts your plow so it doesn't cut as deep. I've seen where some plows have a depth regulator so that the hitch can be dropped all the way but the plow rides at the height of the regulator wheel and "always" cuts the same depth. But that's the least of my problems. The biggest problem in my lot in PA is the large stones in the ground that can stop my BX25 tractor in its tracks. I try to remember the spot and go back later to dig it out with the backhoe. I have quite a pile of big stones. I'm totally serious when I say that for all the stones we have pulled out of our garden plot that the soil level has dropped 2 to 3 inches.
I found when plowing sod it worked better to disk first to cut up the sod so it doesn't clump up and get stuck in the plow. As to where to start you can either start in the middle and work your way out or start outside and work your way to the middle. The important thing to remember is next time you plow the field do the opposite that way you don't end up with a major plow rut either on either side or in the middle.
The goal of moldboard plowing is to kill the grass by cutting the roots off AND rolling the cut layer over to bury the blades. With a moldboard plow (like what you have) to do this right you have to balance the depth of the cut, the angles the plow meets the soil (both front and back and left to right), and to get the proper roll-over you have to have the right speed. As you found out, if you go too slowly and too deeply the soil doesn't roll over, but tends to fall back and leave some grass exposed. It takes several passes to figure out what combination of settings your particular tractor and plow needs to work with the kind of soil you have. Coulter blades (discs in front of the plow to cut the sod where the plow's vertical cutting edge is) are a huge help when you have tough sod, but they add length to the plow overall and for some sub-compact and compact tractors the arms of the three point hitch will be so short a coulter may not have enough room to fit between the tractor and the plow. Review the tractor and plow combination before buying. Most mid-century small tractors (like the Ford N-series) and modern larger tractors have a function called "draft control" that senses how much load the ground engaging implement is pulling and automatically adjusts the three point to reduce the engagement depth when the load gets too large. I don't think any modern sub-compact or compact tractor has draft control; you have to manually adjust the three-point depth setting when you feel the tractor straining. Plows can be had with depth control wheels which run along the unplowed ground beside the furrow and also prevent the plow from going beyond a desired depth. It probably only makes a small difference, but you are supposed to move the top link attachment point on the tractor to the highest pin setting when using ground engaging equipment. Plowing generally turns the soil several inches deeper than tillers do, and for fields that are often tilled they may every few seasons may need to be plowed as well to loosen the "hardpan" that can result below the tilled layer. Other tips: plows can cut several inches down, so be sure there are no shallowly buried electrical lines or water pipes that you might tear through/sever in the area you are plowing. Conversely, if you intend to bury wire or pipe in a field you expect to plow in the future, bury the utility far enough down to never risk accidentally plowing through it (and even then, mark it on the ground and on any property map you have).
Hi I have been following your channel for sometime now and just love to see whats new. I live in Ireland and small holders use mostly vintage/classic tractors on their property, the main buyers of compact and subcompact tractors here are local councils, golfclubs and gardening/landscapeing businesses. As most compact tractors don't have draft control a gauge wheel would be the best way for depth control. Check out everything attachments on youtube. On a personal note I really love to see people getting on in life and supporting their local businesses. As we say here 'fair play to you' and I wish you all the best for the furture. Noel Maguire
I second the suggestion on a two-way single bottom plow. Much more efficient. Dead heading back is a waste of time and fuel. The "start in the middle" suggestion intended for you to plow both directions, leaving the 'hump' in the center to be worked down later.
These plows really need a tractor with draft control of the 3pt. Few if any of the modern compact tractors have this. I have had a lot of experience on older tractors with draft control and it is a lot easier. I have a tough time maintaining proper depth with my newer tractor. Killing the sod first also helps.
That plow could really benefit from a coulter disk, as mentioned in other comments. Regarding power, it’s not just power, it’s weight. And traction. If someone is buying a tractor to plow, gear drive and R1 tires are probably the best setup. Tractors used to have a drawbar hp rating in addition to PTO hp. I don’t see that spec much anymore. My 1981 Ford 1700 tractor is supposedly 25hp, but the only published numbers in the literature are 23 PTO hp and 19 drawbar hp. Unballasted and without loader it weighs around 2600lb. I have a loader, loaded tires, and rear wheel weights so operating weight is around 4000lb. With R1 tires it pulls a single bottom plow like it’s nothing at half to 3/4 throttle (gear drive). The machine frame size is comparable to a Kubota L2501. With the gear drive on my tractor, I run out of traction before I’m out of power. I plow as you conclude, from one edge to the other, circling around.
You did a decent job. A couple of tips (1) tractors with hydrostatic transmissions are not the best choice for heavy, continuous draft loads (like a plow). These high, continuous loads are very hard on the rotating groups. (2) polish your plow share and cutting edge with a wire wheel before starting out. It's surprising how much this will decrease the pulling load (3) when you're done, coat the plough share and cutting edge with the stickiest grease you can find. This will reduce the time it takes to do #2 the next time you use the plow. (4) if you plan on doing lots of plowing - get one with a colter.
Cory, when we used to turn soil with a two bottom solid shank turn plow, we would start in the middle of the field. After making first path, we immediately start at the end that we finished on. Basically making a ditch in the middle, throwing the soil outward on second path. On the third path, again starting on the end that we finished second path, we would throw the soil back into the ditch. We never back tracked, and always had the turn plow in the dirt, throwing the soil back towards the middle of the field. Yes, you would have to track more on the ends to keep throwing the soil in the furrow. When complete with the field, you would have a little bit on the ends that you needed turn. Oh, you learned real quick that you never locked your thumbs inside the steering wheel! Especially, when you hit one them big ole fat lighter stumps, that wouldn’t move with a 40hp or so tractor! The steering wheel would snap around and nearly take your thumbs off when you hit one!
Depends where you want the dead furrow and if you want a rise eliminated. Definitely don't want to make a pass without plowing. With depth control set the draught force should be governed , and you dontalwayswant to go as deepas the tracktor and plow can go lest you bring up some differnt soil type or chemistry that is toxic or reduces crop yeilds like a leached alkalai boundary or a chalk sub soil. Aka bulldozer soil toxicity.
The information you read was correct. Starting in the middle of the field, you plow in both direction. I'd imagine riding that dirt you plowed on the first pass is a bit intimidating on a smaller tractor than it is on big farm tractor. The following year, you would start on the outside of the field and work in with a dead furrow left in the middle of the field. This is the way I was taught back in the day when I helped a local farmer. One year you would plow in, the following year you would plow out. Most farmers that used moldboard plows only plowed 4"-6" deep.
I put an old Furgeson 2-bottom plow behind my YT 235 tractor for the first attempt at ever plowing this year, was a lot of fun. I was putting in a 40' x 80' vegetable garden for my first attempt at growing anything in my life. I was turning over the 1-1/2 foot tall grasses in a field that hadn't been used in years. I was told that the grasses make good nutrient base for the garden. I had absolutely no problems pulling the plow at full depth, (12" in this case), In a clay-based heavy hard soil. As my compact tractor does not have draft control like a friend of mine's 9n, I was having to do it manually, more difficult but definitely doable. My plow also had coulters for the moldboard which cut the grasses making the job infinitely easier
Thanks for sharing! Not only doing this with a 25hp machine, looks like hydrostatic too. I have a similar machine - Bobcat CT1025. I bought it for light duty jobs around my property, but now I have a larger farm and am looking at trading-up to something bigger. It's nice to know I COULD use the CT1025 if time and money don't permit a trade-up. Just takes more time.
Yeah, start in the middle, plow down the field turn around and immediately follow it back on the opposite side. Been plowing for a long time and this Is how it's always done
I think a disk in front of the plow would cut the sod a do a neater job. You caught on very quickly and did a great job. My hats off to you for doing this video with no plowing experience. Thanks, I throughly enjoy your videos and can’t wait for the next one.
Something to help keep a straight line is putting a post or marker at one end of the field so you aim for it on the first pass. Then the other just follow the first. I still think a rototiller is the easiest way to break up soil with these little tractors
Big thing is just traction when plowing and having the plow adjusted so it doesn't go beyond what it can handle. I know guys that run 12" single bottom plows at plow days with little 16hp garden tractors and they power through sod. Coulter wheel would help like others have said.
Thanks... I enjoyed this video. I am trying to do this as well on a small 3 acre plot that is currently all weeds. I am finding it hard to even find a plow (used) that fits my 1025R. Most are too large to fit the small 3 pt. hitch.
The model used in this video was the 6112M. It is made for subcompacts and small compacts specifically. It'll work for your 1025r. www.goodworkstractors.com/product/ironcraft-moldboard-plow-6100-6200-series/
Courtney, did you get a newer factory summit tractor. I noticed the updated quick connector fittings on the side of the bucket arms. If so, any difference you like or dislike from the prototype model you had.
You surprised me when tou said southwest Michigan, i grew up in marcellus and know the area well. Lots of good land and fruit and vegetables in that area.
If you start on the outer edges and work to the center of the field, you end up with more of a trench called a dead furrow. Starting in the center and plowing in both directions does leave a large "hump" but it can be worked down by discing or top dressing with a drag or tiller. Also, I may be wrong, but it appeared to me that when the tires spun, that you didn't have the dif lock engaged. That may have helped. Also, as was mentioned, a Coulter disc in front of the leading edge of the plow point cuts the sod so it will roll. Discing prior will also help. Using a 3 point plow, you control your depth using the control lever and turn the "set button" so that when you drop the plow, it goes to the same depth for each subsequent pass. If you drop the three point to it's lowest setting, the plow will dig it's deepest furrow but will also try to dig deeper as you pull, overloading the machine. You only need a deep enough setting to break the sod roots and roll it over. It doesn't need to be cutting super deep furrows and trop dressing with a disc and other implements will set your seed bed with enough depth to accept your new seed. Just my thoughts after growing up on a farm in Central Michigan and using old style tractors and implements.
@davidgingery8927 is correct and as others have said a straight colter in front of the moldboard helps alot. The only thing I will correct David on is the small compact tractors do not have a depth set knob. This is why some attachments come with adjustable wheels on the front to use controllling the depth. Also plowing sod strains ANY tractor. Next year it will plow much easier.
@@Frontpagefab that's funny, my JD2025R has a set knob and I just figured that with all the extra features that they talk about being on the Summit tractors, having a set knob would be a normal thing. I think you could at least set a mark or something so that when you lower the 3 point, you'll have a point that you'll want to not go beyond to make your depth repeatable. Just my thoughts.
@@FrontpagefabI got to thinking about our conversation on using a se knob to control the depth on the three point hitch. I know my JD2025R has a set knob and I believe the Summit tractor that Courtney was using probably has one. Both of these tractors have taller tires and a higher ground clearance than other compacts, like the JD 1 series. If you think about this, if you're trying to plow with a 1 series or similar size tractor, when you drop your right tires into the plow furrow it would eat up most of your ground clearance. You wouldn't be able to control your depth very easily. While they will pull a plow, they aren't really made for use with this type implement. All the other implements for them (except for the backhoes) are basically made for top dressing your ground and most of those implements have something that controls their depth of cut. Thus there would be no need to have a depth control knob on the tractor. I don't know how correct my thinking is on this, but that is the conclusion I came up with. You definitely need to know your tractors capabilities before you buy implements they aren't designed for.
@@davidgingery8927 I don't entirely disagree with you, but you do know there are companies that make plows for a scut right? usually a 1-10 or 1-12. hitch control would be awesome on the Scut's with the attachment's that are designed for them. This winter, I am planning to make a perfecta with a rolling basket that works with my 2305 but I will have to use the basket or gauge wheels to control depth.
Yeah you learned quick. I pull a 2 bottom with my rk24 (not very deep the first time), only bc it is my dads and free lol. it helps to hold the rear diff lock down to keep the tractor from pulling side ways. Also yes I always start on one side and down the other side and work my way in to the center of its a very wide field. If not i do like you did with an empty drive back but i still start on one side and work to the other so its uniform. Youll only have row at the end thats a ditch. But when you go back and disk it or till it itll fill it in. Love your channel from NC
Is that from power loss from the hydro trans? Have a 46 Farmall A and it pulls a 1 bottom 16 inch plow in 2nd gear and just plays with it. The A is rated at half the hp of that tractor. Have Been thinking getting rid of the A for a sub compact.
It looks like you could extend your top link a little. That might help you maintain the depth you want. The level side to side looks fairly good. A Coulter really helps in sod.
Thanks for this. We are about 1 week behind you. This is a “practice” year getting ready for next. You did pretty good..I’d do the same thing but start at one end, I think 🤷🏻♂️
I set the draft a medium and just kind of nurture it as I go along. Ideally the sod should just roll off the plow. Covering up the other sod. Then you can disc it later on. If you make a hill along the middle cut it will smooth out with weather.
I have heard on the big farm tractors, you now have a GPS that will make the tractors plow straight lines. I grew up in farm country in the Midwest and the joke always was the farm with crooked rows. He said he got more yield because they were crooked. LOL
Haha, that's good. Normally I'm good at going in a straight line, but the tractor was literally angled in that first pass. The plow turning the tractor, so it was about impossible. Subsequent passes had the right side in the trench to make it much easier.
You need a coulter (disc blade) to cut the sod in front of the mould board, going too deep is a common mistake . You just need to turn over the sod to kill it.
It wasn't too bad. A lot of good comments about a disc in front of the plow blade to cut the sod and make multiple shallower passes. (A rough and challenging prospect.) I might have hit that with a larger rotovator or tiller to turn that first, or only. That grass is gonna be a nuisance for a while. We would usually hit it with RoundUp first (not very organic mind you) and then disc, cultivate with a tiller or plow in a couple of our fields that had enough topsoil. When all is said and done, your field is plowed!!!!
A lot depends on how dry the ground is how bad the root mass is and the type of root mass Once you get traction and can keep going keep going nice and steady once you get to the end change angle a lil bit more but not to make it rough ride across All I can hear is my dad telling me “keep that tire in the furrow and keep the lines straight “ 😂😂 You did good young man
Coulters could have helped, I'm no expert but I was always told the choice to start in the middle and work out vs starting on a side and working across depends on the layout of the field, after several years of plowing you will move the dirt. If you have a flat field and work the same way year after year, eventually you will have a low side of the field and a high side of the field, or if you start in the middle of the field you will have a low spot in the middle of the field. So if you like the layout of the field before you start just alternate which way you do it and it will equal out.
I did that this year and want to point out that if the furrow gets really deep and you turn your wheel the wrong way and at too great a speed, it feels like a potential rollover situation. Definitely use your ROPS for this kind of work.
You need a coulter to cut the turf before the plow passes through. That would solve a lot of your problems. Set it ti cut the turf just to the right of the landside side of the plow. Mowing it short first helps as well. You should only be trying to go 6 to maybe 7 inches deep at most too.
The plow we had on our old Farmall tractor when I was a kid had a wheel to set depth and a disk to cut the sod. It looks like you’re going way too deep with that.
Would of been cool to see the 1025r pulling it. With the smaller tires I wonder if it would of pulled it better kind of like when you tested out the 3025e an it stalled out but the 1025r pulled it an never stalled out
A ford 8n with 23 hp and a 2 bottom plow works well in second gear. It is not a horse power issue. It seems like wrong design on that 3 pt hitch. The plow has to be level when at the bottom of the drop and on these passes your plow is still pointed down. What I do is back up to a ditch and lower the plow to the bottom of the draw and level it in the lowest position. That way it pulls down to the 6-7 inches then pulls straight and level at that point. Of course, you have to re-level when you put the right wheel into the furrow.
It needs a Coulter on it to cut the grass/sod which makes it easier. Then again, it's a small tractor so no matter what you do, it may struggle. That's the dilemma I'm in right now. I made the big mistake when I bought a Kubota BX and decided on the bx1880 instead of the bx2380/bx23s. I am needing a plow and I know I am pretty limited on what I can use, but a brinly garden tractor plow with a few modifications, may work. We'll see. GOD Bless.
Looks like the old timers had it right. Find an old two way single bottom trip plow. Saves a lot of time. Pull the cold and you switch bottoms and can go both ways. Someone should make a new version of that, I would think it would sell like hot cakes.
🤣🤣 Draft control on tractor and a Coulter on plow would make plowing much easier.... First pass then plow opposite direction throwing dirt on top dirt you just turned, then plow in circles.... 👍👍
Using even a single bottom turn plow on a machine with less than. 35hp, you should ALWAYS use a gauge wheel. If it's not available with one, I would look into other brands. Also, when you're just turning sod, and 8" plow is plenty. Those big one footers are meant to turn the roots of corn/etc.
If you are going to start in the middle and plow into a circle. Your second pass you will be riding the so called hump of loose soil. But after that second pass, everything will go back to normal with side wheels in the furrow and plowed dirt always going towards the middle.
A middle buster is designed to leave an open furrow. With a plow each pass fills the last open furrow so that the only open furrow should be the last row you plow. You would have one on each side if you’re plowing both directions, which by the way is much more efficient. When you disk and drag you can fill the open furrows so that everything levels out.
A gear tractor would be better suited to maintain constant speed for plowing. On a hydro tractor, probably need to run full speed in low-range and tweak the speed with RPMs.
The small plow does not offer enough clearance between the plow and the frame to break sod. To break sod successfully, the tractor needs to be bigger and there needs to be a larger framed plow with coulters.
Do you need a bigger tractor and a four bottom plow? My dad used to plow fields with a 601 Ford4 Cylinder plenty of power. The small tractors are not meant for this kind of work.
You should have never mowed the field first. This allows the loose trash to bunch up under the plow. If the grass is still attached to the dirt, it is pulled through the minimum clearance area by the rolling action of the soil
You need to watch Polish and Russian farmers plow. You have no coulter and adjustable depth gage wheel. They'll show how to block up tractor on flat ground to set plow angle right from the start. It's not hard, just the lack of knowledge. Good luck 👍
Honestly, I thought I did better watching the video vs when I was actually doing it. Turned out pretty decent I feel like, but agree that a coulter would have been a nice upgrade to cut the sod. Get more information the plow here: www.goodworkstractors.com/product/ironcraft-moldboard-plow-6100-6200-series/
This was going to be my suggestion, but you’re already on it! Brings back memories of watching Grandpa plow the fields with the old moldboard plow.
You needed a single disc to cut and you need speed.
@@tlm3574we still have plowing competitions here in eastern Canada. I plow with a 1969 massey Ferguson 135 and a 13” bottom Kverneland 2 furrow conventional
@@tlm3574 the 13” bottom is the Kverneland hydrein ME which was produced specifically for competition plowing
Go over to the fence and plow back by the fence
Im just an armchair warrior so it's easy for me to say this because I'm not doing it. Ive worked with the elderly for years. I have had the privilege to work with some real old timers. An old time farmer who is now passed once told me the harder the soil the easier to plow. He used to plow with horses and then moved to the tractors with metal tires. So it might be easier to plow if you waited for a dry spell so the soil is harder. I know sometimes it just needs to get done and you can't wait. Thought it might be something to mention. Keep doing the vides love them.
Regarding starting in the middle, yes that is correct, but you swap sides every pass. Yes, the first pass you will be driving on the mound from the first pass, but each subsequent pass will work as normal as you work your way out from the middle.
Thanks! That would have been an umbearably bumpy pass, haha!
I think you are correct. In this video the tractor is only plowing half the time and then returning to the other end half the time. More efficient to plow both directions. The only drawback is that it leaves a row in the middle where the dirt is piled deeper because the tractor has thrown soil from both sides.
The part I dislike about plowing is when your furrow isn't smooth, when there is soil that didn't clear the furrow, then you drive over it on the next pass which lifts your plow so it doesn't cut as deep. I've seen where some plows have a depth regulator so that the hitch can be dropped all the way but the plow rides at the height of the regulator wheel and "always" cuts the same depth. But that's the least of my problems. The biggest problem in my lot in PA is the large stones in the ground that can stop my BX25 tractor in its tracks. I try to remember the spot and go back later to dig it out with the backhoe. I have quite a pile of big stones. I'm totally serious when I say that for all the stones we have pulled out of our garden plot that the soil level has dropped 2 to 3 inches.
I found when plowing sod it worked better to disk first to cut up the sod so it doesn't clump up and get stuck in the plow. As to where to start you can either start in the middle and work your way out or start outside and work your way to the middle. The important thing to remember is next time you plow the field do the opposite that way you don't end up with a major plow rut either on either side or in the middle.
Good tips, thanks Andy!
The goal of moldboard plowing is to kill the grass by cutting the roots off AND rolling the cut layer over to bury the blades. With a moldboard plow (like what you have) to do this right you have to balance the depth of the cut, the angles the plow meets the soil (both front and back and left to right), and to get the proper roll-over you have to have the right speed. As you found out, if you go too slowly and too deeply the soil doesn't roll over, but tends to fall back and leave some grass exposed. It takes several passes to figure out what combination of settings your particular tractor and plow needs to work with the kind of soil you have.
Coulter blades (discs in front of the plow to cut the sod where the plow's vertical cutting edge is) are a huge help when you have tough sod, but they add length to the plow overall and for some sub-compact and compact tractors the arms of the three point hitch will be so short a coulter may not have enough room to fit between the tractor and the plow. Review the tractor and plow combination before buying.
Most mid-century small tractors (like the Ford N-series) and modern larger tractors have a function called "draft control" that senses how much load the ground engaging implement is pulling and automatically adjusts the three point to reduce the engagement depth when the load gets too large. I don't think any modern sub-compact or compact tractor has draft control; you have to manually adjust the three-point depth setting when you feel the tractor straining. Plows can be had with depth control wheels which run along the unplowed ground beside the furrow and also prevent the plow from going beyond a desired depth.
It probably only makes a small difference, but you are supposed to move the top link attachment point on the tractor to the highest pin setting when using ground engaging equipment.
Plowing generally turns the soil several inches deeper than tillers do, and for fields that are often tilled they may every few seasons may need to be plowed as well to loosen the "hardpan" that can result below the tilled layer.
Other tips: plows can cut several inches down, so be sure there are no shallowly buried electrical lines or water pipes that you might tear through/sever in the area you are plowing. Conversely, if you intend to bury wire or pipe in a field you expect to plow in the future, bury the utility far enough down to never risk accidentally plowing through it (and even then, mark it on the ground and on any property map you have).
Hi
I have been following your channel for sometime now and just love to see whats new. I live in Ireland and small holders use mostly vintage/classic tractors on their property, the main buyers of compact and subcompact tractors here are local councils, golfclubs and gardening/landscapeing businesses.
As most compact tractors don't have draft control a gauge wheel would be the best way for depth control.
Check out everything attachments on youtube.
On a personal note I really love to see people getting on in life and supporting their local businesses.
As we say here 'fair play to you' and I wish you all the best for the furture.
Noel Maguire
I second the suggestion on a two-way single bottom plow. Much more efficient. Dead heading back is a waste of time and fuel. The "start in the middle" suggestion intended for you to plow both directions, leaving the 'hump' in the center to be worked down later.
These plows really need a tractor with draft control of the 3pt. Few if any of the modern compact tractors have this. I have had a lot of experience on older tractors with draft control and it is a lot easier. I have a tough time maintaining proper depth with my newer tractor. Killing the sod first also helps.
That plow could really benefit from a coulter disk, as mentioned in other comments. Regarding power, it’s not just power, it’s weight. And traction. If someone is buying a tractor to plow, gear drive and R1 tires are probably the best setup. Tractors used to have a drawbar hp rating in addition to PTO hp. I don’t see that spec much anymore. My 1981 Ford 1700 tractor is supposedly 25hp, but the only published numbers in the literature are 23 PTO hp and 19 drawbar hp. Unballasted and without loader it weighs around 2600lb. I have a loader, loaded tires, and rear wheel weights so operating weight is around 4000lb. With R1 tires it pulls a single bottom plow like it’s nothing at half to 3/4 throttle (gear drive). The machine frame size is comparable to a Kubota L2501. With the gear drive on my tractor, I run out of traction before I’m out of power. I plow as you conclude, from one edge to the other, circling around.
You did a decent job. A couple of tips (1) tractors with hydrostatic transmissions are not the best choice for heavy, continuous draft loads (like a plow). These high, continuous loads are very hard on the rotating groups. (2) polish your plow share and cutting edge with a wire wheel before starting out. It's surprising how much this will decrease the pulling load (3) when you're done, coat the plough share and cutting edge with the stickiest grease you can find. This will reduce the time it takes to do #2 the next time you use the plow. (4) if you plan on doing lots of plowing - get one with a colter.
Cory, when we used to turn soil with a two bottom solid shank turn plow, we would start in the middle of the field. After making first path, we immediately start at the end that we finished on. Basically making a ditch in the middle, throwing the soil outward on second path. On the third path, again starting on the end that we finished second path, we would throw the soil back into the ditch. We never back tracked, and always had the turn plow in the dirt, throwing the soil back towards the middle of the field. Yes, you would have to track more on the ends to keep throwing the soil in the furrow. When complete with the field, you would have a little bit on the ends that you needed turn. Oh, you learned real quick that you never locked your thumbs inside the steering wheel! Especially, when you hit one them big ole fat lighter stumps, that wouldn’t move with a 40hp or so tractor! The steering wheel would snap around and nearly take your thumbs off when you hit one!
Depends where you want the dead furrow and if you want a rise eliminated.
Definitely don't want to make a pass without plowing.
With depth control set the draught force should be governed , and you dontalwayswant to go as deepas the tracktor and plow can go lest you bring up some differnt soil type or chemistry that is toxic or reduces crop yeilds like a leached alkalai boundary or a chalk sub soil. Aka bulldozer soil toxicity.
The information you read was correct. Starting in the middle of the field, you plow in both direction. I'd imagine riding that dirt you plowed on the first pass is a bit intimidating on a smaller tractor than it is on big farm tractor. The following year, you would start on the outside of the field and work in with a dead furrow left in the middle of the field. This is the way I was taught back in the day when I helped a local farmer. One year you would plow in, the following year you would plow out. Most farmers that used moldboard plows only plowed 4"-6" deep.
Blessings my dear brother, I was coffee ☕️ farm from 1979-89, I learning with you . Blessings from NC
Thanks for the video. Glad you are having fun!
I put an old Furgeson 2-bottom plow behind my YT 235 tractor for the first attempt at ever plowing this year, was a lot of fun. I was putting in a 40' x 80' vegetable garden for my first attempt at growing anything in my life. I was turning over the 1-1/2 foot tall grasses in a field that hadn't been used in years. I was told that the grasses make good nutrient base for the garden. I had absolutely no problems pulling the plow at full depth, (12" in this case), In a clay-based heavy hard soil. As my compact tractor does not have draft control like a friend of mine's 9n, I was having to do it manually, more difficult but definitely doable. My plow also had coulters for the moldboard which cut the grasses making the job infinitely easier
Thanks for sharing! Not only doing this with a 25hp machine, looks like hydrostatic too. I have a similar machine - Bobcat CT1025. I bought it for light duty jobs around my property, but now I have a larger farm and am looking at trading-up to something bigger. It's nice to know I COULD use the CT1025 if time and money don't permit a trade-up. Just takes more time.
Yeah, start in the middle, plow down the field turn around and immediately follow it back on the opposite side. Been plowing for a long time and this Is how it's always done
I think a disk in front of the plow would cut the sod a do a neater job. You caught on very quickly and did a great job. My hats off to you for doing this video with no plowing experience. Thanks, I throughly enjoy your videos and can’t wait for the next one.
Thanks Robert!
Something to help keep a straight line is putting a post or marker at one end of the field so you aim for it on the first pass. Then the other just follow the first. I still think a rototiller is the easiest way to break up soil with these little tractors
Looks like it did a decent job once you got the hang of it! Tractor Hard! 🚜💪!
Big thing is just traction when plowing and having the plow adjusted so it doesn't go beyond what it can handle. I know guys that run 12" single bottom plows at plow days with little 16hp garden tractors and they power through sod. Coulter wheel would help like others have said.
Love seeing the verse at the end of your videos.
Thanks... I enjoyed this video. I am trying to do this as well on a small 3 acre plot that is currently all weeds. I am finding it hard to even find a plow (used) that fits my 1025R. Most are too large to fit the small 3 pt. hitch.
The model used in this video was the 6112M. It is made for subcompacts and small compacts specifically. It'll work for your 1025r. www.goodworkstractors.com/product/ironcraft-moldboard-plow-6100-6200-series/
If you have a float use that and use top link to set depth as others said a Coulter (disk riding at frond left edge of plow share) will help a lot.
Courtney, did you get a newer factory summit tractor. I noticed the updated quick connector fittings on the side of the bucket arms. If so, any difference you like or dislike from the prototype model you had.
Yeah, finally got a production model. I'd been running the engineering unit...I'll do a video about it sometime soon I'm sure
You surprised me when tou said southwest Michigan, i grew up in marcellus and know the area well. Lots of good land and fruit and vegetables in that area.
If you start on the outer edges and work to the center of the field, you end up with more of a trench called a dead furrow. Starting in the center and plowing in both directions does leave a large "hump" but it can be worked down by discing or top dressing with a drag or tiller. Also, I may be wrong, but it appeared to me that when the tires spun, that you didn't have the dif lock engaged. That may have helped. Also, as was mentioned, a Coulter disc in front of the leading edge of the plow point cuts the sod so it will roll. Discing prior will also help. Using a 3 point plow, you control your depth using the control lever and turn the "set button" so that when you drop the plow, it goes to the same depth for each subsequent pass. If you drop the three point to it's lowest setting, the plow will dig it's deepest furrow but will also try to dig deeper as you pull, overloading the machine. You only need a deep enough setting to break the sod roots and roll it over. It doesn't need to be cutting super deep furrows and trop dressing with a disc and other implements will set your seed bed with enough depth to accept your new seed. Just my thoughts after growing up on a farm in Central Michigan and using old style tractors and implements.
@davidgingery8927 is correct and as others have said a straight colter in front of the moldboard helps alot. The only thing I will correct David on is the small compact tractors do not have a depth set knob. This is why some attachments come with adjustable wheels on the front to use controllling the depth. Also plowing sod strains ANY tractor. Next year it will plow much easier.
@@Frontpagefab that's funny, my JD2025R has a set knob and I just figured that with all the extra features that they talk about being on the Summit tractors, having a set knob would be a normal thing. I think you could at least set a mark or something so that when you lower the 3 point, you'll have a point that you'll want to not go beyond to make your depth repeatable. Just my thoughts.
@@davidgingery8927 interesting, I have looked at several that didn’t have it.
@@FrontpagefabI got to thinking about our conversation on using a se knob to control the depth on the three point hitch. I know my JD2025R has a set knob and I believe the Summit tractor that Courtney was using probably has one. Both of these tractors have taller tires and a higher ground clearance than other compacts, like the JD 1 series. If you think about this, if you're trying to plow with a 1 series or similar size tractor, when you drop your right tires into the plow furrow it would eat up most of your ground clearance. You wouldn't be able to control your depth very easily. While they will pull a plow, they aren't really made for use with this type implement. All the other implements for them (except for the backhoes) are basically made for top dressing your ground and most of those implements have something that controls their depth of cut. Thus there would be no need to have a depth control knob on the tractor. I don't know how correct my thinking is on this, but that is the conclusion I came up with. You definitely need to know your tractors capabilities before you buy implements they aren't designed for.
@@davidgingery8927 I don't entirely disagree with you, but you do know there are companies that make plows for a scut right? usually a 1-10 or 1-12. hitch control would be awesome on the Scut's with the attachment's that are designed for them. This winter, I am planning to make a perfecta with a rolling basket that works with my 2305 but I will have to use the basket or gauge wheels to control depth.
Yeah you learned quick. I pull a 2 bottom with my rk24 (not very deep the first time), only bc it is my dads and free lol. it helps to hold the rear diff lock down to keep the tractor from pulling side ways. Also yes I always start on one side and down the other side and work my way in to the center of its a very wide field. If not i do like you did with an empty drive back but i still start on one side and work to the other so its uniform. Youll only have row at the end thats a ditch. But when you go back and disk it or till it itll fill it in. Love your channel from NC
Nice job. What size plow is it a 12or 10 plow blade. That will make a difference I was told. Learning just like you. Let us now. God bless take care.
12" on this one, the smallest offered
Is that from power loss from the hydro trans? Have a 46 Farmall A and it pulls a 1 bottom 16 inch plow in 2nd gear and just plays with it. The A is rated at half the hp of that tractor. Have Been thinking getting rid of the A for a sub compact.
It looks like you could extend your top link a little. That might help you maintain the depth you want. The level side to side looks fairly good. A Coulter really helps in sod.
Looks like you got the hang of it after the first couple passes.
I suggest you add a sod cutter (disc) to cut the sod then the plow turns the soil over....
Thanks for this. We are about 1 week behind you. This is a “practice” year getting ready for next. You did pretty good..I’d do the same thing but start at one end, I think 🤷🏻♂️
I set the draft a medium and just kind of nurture it as I go along. Ideally the sod should just roll off the plow. Covering up the other sod. Then you can disc it later on. If you make a hill along the middle cut it will smooth out with weather.
I have heard on the big farm tractors, you now have a GPS that will make the tractors plow straight lines. I grew up in farm country in the Midwest and the joke always was the farm with crooked rows. He said he got more yield because they were crooked. LOL
Haha, that's good. Normally I'm good at going in a straight line, but the tractor was literally angled in that first pass. The plow turning the tractor, so it was about impossible. Subsequent passes had the right side in the trench to make it much easier.
@@GoodWorksTractorsIn proper plow terminology, it leaves a "furrow" rather than "trench".
You need a coulter (disc blade) to cut the sod in front of the mould board, going too deep is a common mistake . You just need to turn over the sod to kill it.
Your tractor looks like my Solis 26. Same same !
Ditto to the comments about the coulter in front of the bottom to cut the sod. Does Iron Craft have a coulter (disk) to add on?
Not that I'm aware of, but I'll probably discuss that with them. Seems like a good idea to me or at least make an option.
so how many plows could your kubota handle?
First you got to break up the sod with a tiller or disk, then plow, and then do your seedbed tillage with a disk or cultivator.
It wasn't too bad. A lot of good comments about a disc in front of the plow blade to cut the sod and make multiple shallower passes. (A rough and challenging prospect.)
I might have hit that with a larger rotovator or tiller to turn that first, or only. That grass is gonna be a nuisance for a while. We would usually hit it with RoundUp first (not very organic mind you) and then disc, cultivate with a tiller or plow in a couple of our fields that had enough topsoil.
When all is said and done, your field is plowed!!!!
A lot depends on how dry the ground is how bad the root mass is and the type of root mass Once you get traction and can keep going keep going nice and steady once you get to the end change angle a lil bit more but not to make it rough ride across
All I can hear is my dad telling me “keep that tire in the furrow and keep the lines straight “ 😂😂
You did good young man
One problem I see the plow is that it doesn't have the sod cutter disk on it. Other than that, I think you did great for your first time.
Coulters could have helped, I'm no expert but I was always told the choice to start in the middle and work out vs starting on a side and working across depends on the layout of the field, after several years of plowing you will move the dirt. If you have a flat field and work the same way year after year, eventually you will have a low side of the field and a high side of the field, or if you start in the middle of the field you will have a low spot in the middle of the field. So if you like the layout of the field before you start just alternate which way you do it and it will equal out.
Power and speed. I use an old Oliver and 2-14. Gotta go fast enough to roll it over
Coulter especially for sod.
High speed turning plow. Most plows are happy being pulled from 3-5mph that is what helps flip the ground over.
Thanks Courtney, who is the parent company of that Summit? Looks nice with the big grapple out front.😊
The Summit tractors are manufactured by ITL of India. They also make the Solis brand of tractors.
I did that this year and want to point out that if the furrow gets really deep and you turn your wheel the wrong way and at too great a speed, it feels like a potential rollover situation. Definitely use your ROPS for this kind of work.
Looks like you need a disc to cut in front of the plow. So it does not clump together
You are right, it wants to hang onto the sod and not roll it over...... 😅
I agree with this statement it’ll make it a lot easier on that lil tractor as well
Yeah
seemed to work well when you were moving fairly quick.
You need a coulter to cut the turf before the plow passes through. That would solve a lot of your problems. Set it ti cut the turf just to the right of the landside side of the plow. Mowing it short first helps as well. You should only be trying to go 6 to maybe 7 inches deep at most too.
so what's the next step? Discs?
How much is it can you ship to jamaica
The plow we had on our old Farmall tractor when I was a kid had a wheel to set depth and a disk to cut the sod. It looks like you’re going way too deep with that.
First pass or two was too deep, figured that out part way through. Made a big difference.
yes a coulter to cut trash , but also on a land you have lower furrow side down lower then raise furrow side when you go into furrow other runds
Would of been cool to see the 1025r pulling it. With the smaller tires I wonder if it would of pulled it better kind of like when you tested out the 3025e an it stalled out but the 1025r pulled it an never stalled out
A ford 8n with 23 hp and a 2 bottom plow works well in second gear. It is not a horse power issue. It seems like wrong design on that 3 pt hitch. The plow has to be level when at the bottom of the drop and on these passes your plow is still pointed down. What I do is back up to a ditch and lower the plow to the bottom of the draw and level it in the lowest position. That way it pulls down to the 6-7 inches then pulls straight and level at that point. Of course, you have to re-level when you put the right wheel into the furrow.
then not deep when tilling to keep sod grass to decay
You need a cutting disc in front of the plow
It needs a Coulter on it to cut the grass/sod which makes it easier. Then again, it's a small tractor so no matter what you do, it may struggle. That's the dilemma I'm in right now. I made the big mistake when I bought a Kubota BX and decided on the bx1880 instead of the bx2380/bx23s. I am needing a plow and I know I am pretty limited on what I can use, but a brinly garden tractor plow with a few modifications, may work. We'll see. GOD Bless.
Need a rolling cutter to cut the sod in front of the share
Looks like the old timers had it right. Find an old two way single bottom trip plow. Saves a lot of time. Pull the cold and you switch bottoms and can go both ways. Someone should make a new version of that, I would think it would sell like hot cakes.
Ya it looked a little sketchy but you don't learn without trying, You can only get better each time you do it. Keep at it
I'm sure you just haven't updated the website, but the plow link is not good.
Working for me...anyone else having issues? www.goodworkstractors.com/product/ironcraft-moldboard-plow-6100-6200-series/
@@GoodWorksTractors It's working for me now.
Hey ... it turned the dirt. Have fun.
🤣🤣 Draft control on tractor and a Coulter on plow would make plowing much easier.... First pass then plow opposite direction throwing dirt on top dirt you just turned, then plow in circles.... 👍👍
You caught onto it The faster you go the better the ground rolls over.
Now a 4075 does not seem to be overkill. Deere has short videos that show how to plow the most efficient patterns.
Using even a single bottom turn plow on a machine with less than. 35hp, you should ALWAYS use a gauge wheel. If it's not available with one, I would look into other brands. Also, when you're just turning sod, and 8" plow is plenty. Those big one footers are meant to turn the roots of corn/etc.
That plow needs a rolling cutter to start with. And you need to run at about 5 mph about. 10 in.deep
If you are going to start in the middle and plow into a circle. Your second pass you will be riding the so called hump of loose soil. But after that second pass, everything will go back to normal with side wheels in the furrow and plowed dirt always going towards the middle.
I propose we rename the units to HORSEPLOWER.
Haha, I like that!
Suggestions from a guy who has plowed fields for years with tractors under 30 hp.
mow it 2 weeks prior, the rake. Then i goto an all purpose plow.
Wouldn’t a middle buster do same job. I know it’s hard to plow with small tractor.
Someone else can probably chime in better than I on that question
A middle buster is designed to leave an open furrow. With a plow each pass fills the last open furrow so that the only open furrow should be the last row you plow. You would have one on each side if you’re plowing both directions, which by the way is much more efficient. When you disk and drag you can fill the open furrows so that everything levels out.
A gear tractor would be better suited to maintain constant speed for plowing. On a hydro tractor, probably need to run full speed in low-range and tweak the speed with RPMs.
Need a colter , cut# the sod so it wouldn’t plug up
6-8 inch usually is deep enough
The small plow does not offer enough clearance between the plow and the frame to break sod. To break sod successfully, the tractor needs to be bigger and there needs to be a larger framed plow with coulters.
I've only plowed with something similar a few times and hated every second of it. Not as easy as it seems and didn't do much good, for me anyway.
Needs a COULTER and a depth wheel.
The Amish do it like how all of us used to do it with one or two 15 horsepower horses
Do you need a bigger tractor and a four bottom plow? My dad used to plow fields with a 601 Ford4 Cylinder plenty of power. The small tractors are not meant for this kind of work.
You should have never mowed the field first. This allows the loose trash to bunch up under the plow. If the grass is still attached to the dirt, it is pulled through the minimum clearance area by the rolling action of the soil
🇨🇦
You need to watch Polish and Russian farmers plow. You have no coulter and adjustable depth gage wheel. They'll show how to block up tractor on flat ground to set plow angle right from the start. It's not hard, just the lack of knowledge. Good luck 👍
For that tractor you can only go six inches deep
I was doing about that, a bit deeper perhaps 7-8"
After a while of using a plow it will be the easiest thing to use
Fun / educational experience , turning the soil over once every many years isnt detrimental
You mean new toy, not tool. 😂 Enjoy
Missing a part of the plow... 😮, Read on ... Try again..😅
Yeah yeah, haha, have a good one man!