This video and the previous one on cam chain adjustment are great. All of the necessary information provided, clear camera work, just enough theory to help make the process understandable, and no extra babbling. Good job!
These videos are great. I think this series is the best produced of any of mechanic instruction I've seen on RUclips. I have 69 cb175 and I'm sure I'll be going back to these videos a lot as I rebuild it.
After studying that issue for a year I can tell you the easiest solution is to just remove the upper clutch adjuster LOCKNUT the one at the handlebars. Thank me later. Set clutch as usual per manual.
This is not how Honda recommends adjusting valves just so you know Honda says metric feeler gauges and use a go no go method that means if it’s supposed to be 3 mm you adjust it to 3 mm you take a 4 mm and check to see if it’ll go in if it goes in you didn’t get it adjusted right if the 4 mm doesn’t go in then you got it adjusted right real simple i’ve use this method for over 30 years working on Japanese motorcycles it works
The first time I did this I used a regular wrench and screwed up the threads where one of the tappet covers screw in. It was cylinder 3 and I had weird angle when I was loosening the screw, ended up pushing part of the wrench into the screw threads. Luckily the tappet cover still screws in, but not as easy as the other ones. Live and learn. After that I went out and bought one of those slightly bent wrenches for future valve clearance jobs. I also picked up one of those little Honda tools that's made just for this job. I haven't tried it yet though.
Much thanks for putting this and your other vids together. Well done all around. Great insight and straight forward descriptions. Do you have a vid on a complete valve job?... removal, inspection, lapping, cleaning, re-assembly? Give a man a hand and he wants your arm...
Ahhh now I see how it works...easier than the hardcopy manual with bad photos i have! Thanks guys. My CB360T is running quieter already, Just Need to replace the points, they are completely shot!
Hi, I've ordered many parts from C.M.C. for my 360 and really appreciate all the videos. I've done the cam-chain adjustment and have moved on to the valve adjustment. My only question so far: My engine always builds up pressure as I'm coming onto the compression stroke(of course) but as I hit the 'LT' mark the engine rotates forward on its own. This made it difficult even to do the Cam-chain adjustment as it even rotates forward past the 90degree mark. I have been able to wedge my wrench into a position that keeps the engine from rotating to allow me to get it all done but I really feel like it's not right as in both of your videos you were able to leave it on the the mark with no problem.. Am I on the wrong rotation?
ChrispE the engine always wants to rotate past the LT mark on the compression stroke. You will have to hold it in place with a wrench when adjusting the timing and valves.
I wish I had found this video yesterday. I like your technique of going a little tight one size higher. I wasn't sure how much drag there was supposed to be on the feeler gauge, it's hard to show that in a video or manual. When I did mine I got confused because it seemed like one or two of my tappets had more up and down play in them then the others. I had seen a couple videos that said there should be no up and down play, just a slight wiggle. Looks like you're saying a little up and down movement is okay. (Obviously there should be enough movement to let the feeler gauge through, but it's so small it's hard to feel that movement sometimes.)
Yeah thats why we error a bit on the loose side slightly. Usually when I do my valve adjustment I can always get a little sound out of the tappet as you hear in the video. Its the points that need to be spot on.
question on your use of shims stock.. how do you determine that you need .002 and .003? I ask because, as a professional mechanical inspector, I can assure you that if a .003 shim fits and is not captured by the screw, that your gap is .003+ (aka a loose 3). The use of shims displayed in the video would give you larger clearances than described. I would think that, if you want a .002 gap, you use a .002 shim, and once it releases you know your gap is .002+.
I am having the same problem as @danieltyler. How does your generator just stop on TDC and you can take your wrench off the generator? I have to struggle to hold mine on TDC. This makes for adjusting the clearances very difficult because one hand is on the wrench holding the generator on TDC.
Been adjusting Honda valves for 45 years. Good camera work but bad procedure. I always use metric blades pre-curved to gain a perpendicular access to the gap. The tappet screw (it's not a bolt) is turned into the .08 blade until there is a little more drag than is proper. Torqueing the nut pulls the tappet screw away from the valve stem ever so slightly which resuilts in a perfect .08 clearance. The proper way to gauge 'slight drag' is to reinsert the blade and feel for a slight resistance and a little chatter as it slides between the 2 surfaces. Using metric blades is nealry 3 times more precise. You can then try a .09. It should not go. A follow-up with a .07 should produce no drag as the blade enters the gap. This is how you set a precise .08.
I just did this for the first time today on my CB750. So you're saying if I've measured and set it properly, one size higher feeler guage shouldn't fit at all? That's interesting. I assumed it would fit, but it would be really tight. The slight resistance part is the part I'm having trouble with. I'm assuming it should go through easily but with a very slight resistance to let you know t's connecting with the top and bottom part. I think I set a couple of mine top tight. It would slide through, but if I let the entire feeler gauge tool dangle there against the engine, the pressure would hold it in place...if that makes sense. Does that sound too tight?
We actually are working on a full video walk through the demonstrates how to adjust the Cam Chain Tensioner and the valve clearance on the 350 series of bikes currently. Keep an eye out for that if you're still struggling with it.
Now from what I heard this can help with compression. My 360 is running with about 60psi per cylinder, I wanna see if this will help before I do new rings on my pistons. Will adjusting these do anything for compression?
my honda xr 150L intake tappet valve clearance is .08mm and exhaust is .12mm(standard).. i brought it back to my dealer for a tune up at 12k km odo. they adjust the intake to 0.10mm and ex 0.12mm . anny disadvantage for not following the standard clearance?
working on a CB360T I've Ste the timing and it dead on according to you video, also the valves are good too. but when I fire it up it's piping and backfiring and switching from running on 1 to 2 cly?? what am I missing here? also it's got a brand new battery too. is the condenser toast? if so how do you check it?
would you use the same adjustment values for any bike or is this typical for your model? i have a honda ps50 and i want to set the valves, they told me to use the 0,05mm feeler gauge (for both valves)
Ideally a torque wrench should be used on the jam nuts after first _snugging_ them with a wrench. Anti Seize works great for keeping access covers from sticking.
Just curious how you would hold the set screw with a torque wrench on it? My understanding is torque wrenches are usually sockets, is there an actual wrench version?
Heat it with a propane torch ( remove the gas tank first), penetrating oil, 6 point socket. Just get it removed, we have replacements, part number 4022
@@Common-motor you rock, thanks! i'll give it a shot, and sorry do the ones you sell fit the CB175? didn't see it listed in the description but they look the same...
So last week I did my cam chain adjustment just fine. Today I went to this and when trying to spin the engine it wants to spin past the LT mark, and only stays there when I hold it in place. Help?
thanks again!!! Edit: I opened my covers and it has no adjustment screws, just the rockers and valve top.....what Am I missing? this is a running motorcycle(1970 CB 350)...
On my CB350G, the valve adjuster screws are actually located right next to the points plate in the cases on either side, and NOT inside of the 17mm housing for the valves themselves. Tripped me up too!
The eccentric shaft adjustment on the 350 and 450 twins are superior to the 360 rocker tip adjusters { less reciprocating weight }. Honda stopped using eccentric shaft adjustment because A. rocker tip lock nut type { 360 } heads are simpler and cheaper to make, B. eccentric shaft adjustment would be hard to make work on 4 cylinder engines. And yes the 350's are faster.
I have some ticking sounds coming from my 75 CB750. I thought I did something to it after adjusting the valves, but I think the ticking was there before. I'm guessing it's somewhat normal, but I'm new to motorcycles. I'm definitely going to check my valves again after watching this video. Going one size up but doing it tight, seems like a good idea. I'm still not sure exactly how much resistance I should feel when I slide the gauge through.
david barranco something is not right with your engine or the process was performed incorrectly. Try it again. Engine should always move freely with the kick start when in neutral
5:02 the factory service manual says 0.03 for the exhaust valve...... not 0.003 and 0.002 for the intake . HOWEVER!!!!!!! 0.003 is the correct setting..... the manual is wrong!!! if you convert the metric numbers given in the manual to inches.... its 0.003 EX and 0.002 IN
Yes you are missing something... Rotate the crankshaft until the T mark aligns with the index mark on the compression stroke of the right cylinder. Adjust the right side there. All this information is also in the factory service manual which can be downloaded from our website.
Thank you @@Common-motor . I have got a question for you ! I have a 250 G , , new pistons ( standard new rings . The right exhaust it's more strong than the left . I have done all the settings as you show in your videos !
Going from my experience with a single cylinder engine I'm gonna guess the 'LT' mark is the same as the top-dead-centre ('T') mark. You need to be on the compression stroke which means both valves will be closed, so there should be some free play in the adjusters. Best way to check is to remove the adjuster inspection caps and crank the engine over, watching the valves carefully. When both valve adjusters are at their highest point then you'll be at top-dead-centre on the compression stroke. I'm sure this engine layout will be similar!
This video and the previous one on cam chain adjustment are great. All of the necessary information provided, clear camera work, just enough theory to help make the process understandable, and no extra babbling. Good job!
My thoughts exactly. I’m so sick of all the babbling
These videos are great. I think this series is the best produced of any of mechanic instruction I've seen on RUclips. I have 69 cb175 and I'm sure I'll be going back to these videos a lot as I rebuild it.
That's super kind of you to say! Thanks for the words. Be sure to like, subscribe and share to help keep us rolling.
All of these videos and the website have been such a huge help working on our first vintage motorcycle. Thanks so much!
You guys have made so many awesome videos for the 360. I would love to see a video on fixing the clutch pop problem!
I would also like to see this video done. Great work guys!
After studying that issue for a year I can tell you the easiest solution is to just remove the upper clutch adjuster LOCKNUT the one at the handlebars. Thank me later. Set clutch as usual per manual.
This is not how Honda recommends adjusting valves just so you know Honda says metric feeler gauges and use a go no go method that means if it’s supposed to be 3 mm you adjust it to 3 mm you take a 4 mm and check to see if it’ll go in if it goes in you didn’t get it adjusted right if the 4 mm doesn’t go in then you got it adjusted right real simple i’ve use this method for over 30 years working on Japanese motorcycles it works
drive.google.com/file/d/0B8RLEMngUB63YU9SaUNEMEhhTjQ/view?usp=drivesdk Here’s the manual. It supports CMC method.
I was leery of doing this but this video made it look easy and it was. Thanks for the tips. Well done.
The first time I did this I used a regular wrench and screwed up the threads where one of the tappet covers screw in. It was cylinder 3 and I had weird angle when I was loosening the screw, ended up pushing part of the wrench into the screw threads. Luckily the tappet cover still screws in, but not as easy as the other ones. Live and learn. After that I went out and bought one of those slightly bent wrenches for future valve clearance jobs. I also picked up one of those little Honda tools that's made just for this job. I haven't tried it yet though.
Much thanks for putting this and your other vids together. Well done all around. Great insight and straight forward descriptions. Do you have a vid on a complete valve job?... removal, inspection, lapping, cleaning, re-assembly? Give a man a hand and he wants your arm...
These videos are great. Anymore channels that cover adjustments and repairs that your channel hasn't covered?
Ahhh now I see how it works...easier than the hardcopy manual with bad photos i have! Thanks guys. My CB360T is running quieter already, Just Need to replace the points, they are completely shot!
Hi, I've ordered many parts from C.M.C. for my 360 and really appreciate all the videos. I've done the cam-chain adjustment and have moved on to the valve adjustment. My only question so far: My engine always builds up pressure as I'm coming onto the compression stroke(of course) but as I hit the 'LT' mark the engine rotates forward on its own. This made it difficult even to do the Cam-chain adjustment as it even rotates forward past the 90degree mark. I have been able to wedge my wrench into a position that keeps the engine from rotating to allow me to get it all done but I really feel like it's not right as in both of your videos you were able to leave it on the the mark with no problem.. Am I on the wrong rotation?
ChrispE the engine always wants to rotate past the LT mark on the compression stroke. You will have to hold it in place with a wrench when adjusting the timing and valves.
I wish I had found this video yesterday. I like your technique of going a little tight one size higher. I wasn't sure how much drag there was supposed to be on the feeler gauge, it's hard to show that in a video or manual. When I did mine I got confused because it seemed like one or two of my tappets had more up and down play in them then the others. I had seen a couple videos that said there should be no up and down play, just a slight wiggle. Looks like you're saying a little up and down movement is okay. (Obviously there should be enough movement to let the feeler gauge through, but it's so small it's hard to feel that movement sometimes.)
Yeah thats why we error a bit on the loose side slightly. Usually when I do my valve adjustment I can always get a little sound out of the tappet as you hear in the video. Its the points that need to be spot on.
Many thanks for your efforts and time to record and post. Working on a restore of old Honda Dream. Immensely helpful. Thank you!
question on your use of shims stock.. how do you determine that you need .002 and .003? I ask because, as a professional mechanical inspector, I can assure you that if a .003 shim fits and is not captured by the screw, that your gap is .003+ (aka a loose 3). The use of shims displayed in the video would give you larger clearances than described. I would think that, if you want a .002 gap, you use a .002 shim, and once it releases you know your gap is .002+.
From a retired HD mechanic, great explanation!
hi..super clear video.. is this the same for xr50 or small honda 50'ccs.. i can't see the gap on mine.. uber tight.
Its hard to say, we don't have any of those bikes over here at Common Motor currently so we are not to familiar with them.
Good video man. Very clear instructions and very nice demonstration!! Good job man!!
Clear, concise and easy to follow video with a great explanation: Kudo's sir and thank you.
I am having the same problem as @danieltyler. How does your generator just stop on TDC and you can take your wrench off the generator? I have to struggle to hold mine on TDC. This makes for adjusting the clearances very difficult because one hand is on the wrench holding the generator on TDC.
Been adjusting Honda valves for 45 years. Good camera work but bad procedure. I always use metric blades pre-curved to gain a perpendicular access to the gap. The tappet screw (it's not a bolt) is turned into the .08 blade until there is a little more drag than is proper. Torqueing the nut pulls the tappet screw away from the valve stem ever so slightly which resuilts in a perfect .08 clearance. The proper way to gauge 'slight drag' is to reinsert the blade and feel for a slight resistance and a little chatter as it slides between the 2 surfaces. Using metric blades is nealry 3 times more precise. You can then try a .09. It should not go. A follow-up with a .07 should produce no drag as the blade enters the gap. This is how you set a precise .08.
"bolt" instead of "screw"... yeah you're right but man you should not even mention that - fortunate this guy has the guts to put himself out there.
I just did this for the first time today on my CB750. So you're saying if I've measured and set it properly, one size higher feeler guage shouldn't fit at all? That's interesting. I assumed it would fit, but it would be really tight. The slight resistance part is the part I'm having trouble with. I'm assuming it should go through easily but with a very slight resistance to let you know t's connecting with the top and bottom part. I think I set a couple of mine top tight. It would slide through, but if I let the entire feeler gauge tool dangle there against the engine, the pressure would hold it in place...if that makes sense. Does that sound too tight?
The process for finding TDC with the magneto is the same for a 350 twin I'd imagine? Nice channel and website/store.
We actually are working on a full video walk through the demonstrates how to adjust the Cam Chain Tensioner and the valve clearance on the 350 series of bikes currently. Keep an eye out for that if you're still struggling with it.
So where was this video in 1975 when I needed it?
Now from what I heard this can help with compression. My 360 is running with about 60psi per cylinder, I wanna see if this will help before I do new rings on my pistons. Will adjusting these do anything for compression?
Would you say that you need to check them every 1500 miles and not necessarily adjust them?
my honda xr 150L intake tappet valve clearance is .08mm and exhaust is .12mm(standard).. i brought it back to my dealer for a tune up at 12k km odo. they adjust the intake to 0.10mm and ex 0.12mm . anny disadvantage for not following the standard clearance?
A great teaching video hope make more , Thank You Very Much!
working on a CB360T I've Ste the timing and it dead on according to you video, also the valves are good too. but when I fire it up it's piping and backfiring and switching from running on 1 to 2 cly?? what am I missing here? also it's got a brand new battery too. is the condenser toast? if so how do you check it?
would you use the same adjustment values for any bike or is this typical for your model? i have a honda ps50 and i want to set the valves, they told me to use the 0,05mm feeler gauge (for both valves)
When you say near the end to rotate the engine 180 degrees to the t mark, do you mean clockwise or counterclockwise?
best video i've seen on this
just wondering if the valves are out of adjustment would that make the bike blow oil out of the tailpipe and white smoke
How did you stop it from rolling back the mark?
Will this be the same for a 1971 cb175?? Same feeler gauges ??
Please i really need your help im stuck on the valve clearence.
Thank you
btw, thanks for making such badass vids very clear and concise!
Thanks! Great video. Clear and concise!
Ideally a torque wrench should be used on the jam nuts after first _snugging_ them with a wrench.
Anti Seize works great for keeping access covers from sticking.
Just curious how you would hold the set screw with a torque wrench on it? My understanding is torque wrenches are usually sockets, is there an actual wrench version?
Very informative, thanks so much guys!
any tips for removing a stuck valve adjustment cover? one of mine won't budge and i've already nearly stripped it trying... lol
Heat it with a propane torch ( remove the gas tank first), penetrating oil, 6 point socket. Just get it removed, we have replacements, part number 4022
@@Common-motor you rock, thanks! i'll give it a shot, and sorry do the ones you sell fit the CB175? didn't see it listed in the description but they look the same...
The 175's are much larger in size than the 350 ones. They are available as A special order item.
@@Common-motor can i email you for a set?
Great video. Very clear instructions. 👍
my lifter locknut keeps coming loose and i loose valve adjustment.do u recommend locktight? double nut? or nylon locking nut?
Hi temp loctite red or blue my tappers have come loose without it
So last week I did my cam chain adjustment just fine. Today I went to this and when trying to spin the engine it wants to spin past the LT mark, and only stays there when I hold it in place. Help?
Same thing happened to me today. I assumed I did something wrong! Daniel Tyler did you find a solution?
Trying to picture how the screw driver would hold it there. Did you put it in the stator?
I eneded up just propping the socket wrench up so it would stay in place with a piece of fire wood.
I don't have any firewood. ;)
These videos are amazing.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
aha q
how many watts does the alternator have ?
Super clear. Thank you!
Nicely explained, thanks.
great explanation..thank you so much buddy. :)
What year CB350 is that?
The motion pro tool is not that much money and makes the job much easier and more accurate than a wrench and screwdriver.
WHat to do if your CB350 K4 doesnt have locknuts on the valve? Haha, i purchased offset wrench set for nothing!
thanks again!!!
Edit: I opened my covers and it has no adjustment screws, just the rockers and valve top.....what Am I missing? this is a running motorcycle(1970 CB 350)...
On my CB350G, the valve adjuster screws are actually located right next to the points plate in the cases on either side, and NOT inside of the 17mm housing for the valves themselves. Tripped me up too!
The eccentric shaft adjustment on the 350 and 450 twins are superior to the 360 rocker tip adjusters
{ less reciprocating weight }. Honda stopped using eccentric shaft adjustment because A. rocker tip lock nut type { 360 } heads are simpler and cheaper to make, B. eccentric shaft adjustment would be hard to make work on 4 cylinder engines. And yes the 350's are faster.
would this solve the ticking noise?
I have some ticking sounds coming from my 75 CB750. I thought I did something to it after adjusting the valves, but I think the ticking was there before. I'm guessing it's somewhat normal, but I'm new to motorcycles. I'm definitely going to check my valves again after watching this video. Going one size up but doing it tight, seems like a good idea. I'm still not sure exactly how much resistance I should feel when I slide the gauge through.
I did this adjustment, now the kick start lever is barely moving
david barranco something is not right with your engine or the process was performed incorrectly. Try it again. Engine should always move freely with the kick start when in neutral
Fantastic !
Alguuen sabe a donde va la respiracion qye tiene arriba la mia tira el aceite por ahí
Póngase en contacto con nuestro soporte técnico y podemos ayudarle.
Awesome
super!👌
5:02 the factory service manual says 0.03 for the exhaust valve...... not 0.003
and 0.002 for the intake
.
HOWEVER!!!!!!! 0.003 is the correct setting..... the manual is wrong!!!
if you convert the metric numbers given in the manual to inches.... its 0.003 EX and 0.002 IN
Ol timers tell me a pack o smokes wrapper works for clearance..I hate cigs so
Nobody noticed that there is no reference how to establish the process on the right side !? I've checked several times ! I am missing something ?
Yes you are missing something... Rotate the crankshaft until the T mark aligns with the index mark on the compression stroke of the right cylinder. Adjust the right side there. All this information is also in the factory service manual which can be downloaded from our website.
Thank you @@Common-motor . I have got a question for you ! I have a 250 G , , new pistons ( standard new rings . The right exhaust it's more strong than the left . I have done all the settings as you show in your videos !
What do I do when there is no timing mark on the stator?
Going from my experience with a single cylinder engine I'm gonna guess the 'LT' mark is the same as the top-dead-centre ('T') mark. You need to be on the compression stroke which means both valves will be closed, so there should be some free play in the adjusters. Best way to check is to remove the adjuster inspection caps and crank the engine over, watching the valves carefully. When both valve adjusters are at their highest point then you'll be at top-dead-centre on the compression stroke.
I'm sure this engine layout will be similar!