Gareth - PLEASE do a removal/install on the REAR hub assemblies on an F8X and HOPEFULLY get one that's badly rusted so we can see how you do it. Center locking nut, axle pulling and the demonic little placement screws that hold the rotors in place. The entire internet NEEDS this video...
@@fcpeuro Seriously.. I don't want to beg but I guess I am haha! The front bearing assembly I can handle because even if you strip the retaining screws, which I did, the whole assembly falls off, rotor and bearing connected, once the 4 x TP60 bolts are out. BUT... the rears are giving me nightmares and all the videos I come across are one nightmare after another - and virtually NONE of them address this. The rear assemblies "look" simple enough.. but they absolutely ARE NOT when they're rusted or seized. Help us F8x owners out!! PLEASE m_ _m!
As always a great video from you guys. This is the same procedure on pretty much any F2X and F3X with the M-sport brakes aswell. On the more "pedestrian" cars though, the brakes last longer and the hardware is stuck in there for a long time between disassamblies. Sometimes the locking pins are absolutely stuck in there and can actually bend when hammered out. So I recommend using a tiny bit of anti-seize on the tips and on the locking mechanism of the locking pins.
Since with this style caliper, pistons don't have protective rubber boot, It's a good practice to clean them with soapy water and tooth brush before pushing them in.
Is it an absolute must to install 380 + 370mm brake discs on an M4 if it is just my daily fun car? No track days. I just cannot justify the cost of how expensive the 380 +370mm brake discs are.
URGENT !!!hello fcp ,I looking for bmw B48A20 engine workshop manual ,currently undergoes engine overhaul but is our first time and we have no excess for any bmw b48 manual ,hope you guy can help us out .really appreciate it thank you
Great video, was going to pay someone to do it, but after watching I'm confident that I can do it myself. The link you have though takes you to z coated rotor kit. I've never heard of it before; do you guys sell the regular stainless, like the ones in your video? Thanks in advance!
Love this video. Just wanted to add to make sure you close the brake fluid reservoir cap 😂 I forgot this one time in my younger days and man oh man 😂😂😂 14:23
Every time I replace the brakes on my BMW E9X M3 they recommend that the brake pads and rotors be replaced. At the BMW dealership they charge about $5000 for the front and rear. BMW Indie Shops charge half that. But why can't the BMW brake rotors be resurfaced smooth, so you just need to install new brake pads?
@10:18 BMW E9X M3 sighting. Change those rims to 359M Comp.Wheels. Two Tips: - Upgrade the brake lines to stainless steel brake lines while you have the brake calibers off. - For a car with more than 80k-120k+ miles, check the front wheel bearings for wear/noise by spinning them. The wheel hub has the bearings integrated in one piece that is a bolt on. If they need replacing, try to find OE replacements to save $$$$. On a BMW E9X M3, the BMW OEM wheel hubs are $400+ each. Rear wheel bearings are cheap, but are a huge pain since they have to be pressed off (slide hammer) and on.
As always, it's a great video. I have a question... Can I install M sport calipers on the 4 wheels with the same brake master cylinder of my car which works with single piston calipers?
Depends on the car, but generally yes. The retrofit kit from BMW for the M-performance brakes on F2X and F3X does not include another master cylinder. The pedal feel will change a bit though, it's slighty softer and longer throw - but there is plenty of power.
Stretch bolts like head bolts, flywheel bolts, and these caliper bolts are all torque-to-yeild. This creates a high preload which helps them hold but it stretches the bolt when you get them up to their torque spec. That makes them more susceptible to fatigue so they should be replaced.
@@maxsam201 Depends on the thread type, diameter, and bolts metal composition but obviously it's 110nm/81ft/lbs since that's the torque spec. If you really want to know go put the specs into a torque calculator. A thing to consider is the expansion and contraction the brake caliper encounters from heat, especially during track use. Bolt that's have been previously stretched are more susceptible to backing out. People reuse them but the cost of a caliper coming off is way more than the $50ish it costs to replace all 8 caliper carrier bolts.
@@TheDudeAbides1776 I see no reason to continue with this. It appears that you are operating with some generic knowledge found on internet, and some of your statements make no real sense or baseless.
@@maxsam201 Dude, this is absolute basic mechanics. You don't need an engineering degree to understand torque-to-yeild bolts. Sounds like you're just too cheap to cough up $6 for a bolt.
working as a Firestone technician and want to be ready to do this job especially with my own BMW. Great video!
You own an M4? Can you explain a bit how is it performing for day to day life and is it worth the extra money over the F30/F80?
Gareth - PLEASE do a removal/install on the REAR hub assemblies on an F8X and HOPEFULLY get one that's badly rusted so we can see how you do it. Center locking nut, axle pulling and the demonic little placement screws that hold the rotors in place.
The entire internet NEEDS this video...
On our agenda!!
@@fcpeuro Seriously.. I don't want to beg but I guess I am haha!
The front bearing assembly I can handle because even if you strip the retaining screws, which I did, the whole assembly falls off, rotor and bearing connected, once the 4 x TP60 bolts are out.
BUT... the rears are giving me nightmares and all the videos I come across are one nightmare after another - and virtually NONE of them address this. The rear assemblies "look" simple enough.. but they absolutely ARE NOT when they're rusted or seized.
Help us F8x owners out!! PLEASE m_ _m!
@FCP Euro why did you not replace the Brake Wear Sensors at the Front? In the Rear Brake Video, you have done it.
Thanks - what grease was it, copper/ lithium/ silicon/ ant-seeze?
Are you guys able to do an amg c63s c205 rotor and pas replacement video for the red caliper variation?
Your tool list say E12 socket, but the video says E16. I'm believe it's the latter.
As always a great video from you guys. This is the same procedure on pretty much any F2X and F3X with the M-sport brakes aswell. On the more "pedestrian" cars though, the brakes last longer and the hardware is stuck in there for a long time between disassamblies. Sometimes the locking pins are absolutely stuck in there and can actually bend when hammered out. So I recommend using a tiny bit of anti-seize on the tips and on the locking mechanism of the locking pins.
Since with this style caliper, pistons don't have protective rubber boot, It's a good practice to clean them with soapy water and tooth brush before pushing them in.
Is this Mperformance brake set can be mod to e92?
Good DIY explanation, very easy job and great way to say about $1k
Is it an absolute must to install 380 + 370mm brake discs on an M4 if it is just my daily fun car? No track days.
I just cannot justify the cost of how expensive the 380 +370mm brake discs are.
You guys ALWAYS have the best videos.
URGENT !!!hello fcp ,I looking for bmw B48A20 engine workshop manual ,currently undergoes engine overhaul but is our first time and we have no excess for any bmw b48 manual ,hope you guy can help us out .really appreciate it thank you
Great video, was going to pay someone to do it, but after watching I'm confident that I can do it myself. The link you have though takes you to z coated rotor kit. I've never heard of it before; do you guys sell the regular stainless, like the ones in your video? Thanks in advance!
Got sum1 doing my f82 brakes and rotors rn and it hurts to know they not going the extra mile like this just know they not
Super guide. Many thanks for your time making the video.
Love this video. Just wanted to add to make sure you close the brake fluid reservoir cap 😂 I forgot this one time in my younger days and man oh man 😂😂😂 14:23
And to think BMW charges a buttload for a simple job
Well done Man!!! I really appreciate the video, I wasn’t sure if I needed to take my car to the dealership. This is exactly why BMW>Benz.
does someone know the part number on those e-16 screws?
www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-disc-brake-caliper-bolt-front-34116772117
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to do my '15 M4 and and been quite a few years since I've done this so great refresher.
Thanks brother! I will save some money for sure
Thanks for posting this.
Nice work, very helpful
Make it easier for the next guy…because it could be you lol
Every time I replace the brakes on my BMW E9X M3 they recommend that the brake pads and rotors be replaced. At the BMW dealership they charge about $5000 for the front and rear. BMW Indie Shops charge half that. But why can't the BMW brake rotors be resurfaced smooth, so you just need to install new brake pads?
It's a German thing. Resurfacing rotors is illegal in Germany
Thank you for this video
At 8.30:
Do E16 bolts need to be changed every time they are disassembled?
That’s just what I was trying to find out! Have you got an answer yet? Thanks!
Very helpful thank you
@10:18 BMW E9X M3 sighting. Change those rims to 359M Comp.Wheels.
Two Tips:
- Upgrade the brake lines to stainless steel brake lines while you have the brake calibers off.
- For a car with more than 80k-120k+ miles, check the front wheel bearings for wear/noise by spinning them. The wheel hub has the bearings integrated in one piece that is a bolt on. If they need replacing, try to find OE replacements to save $$$$. On a BMW E9X M3, the BMW OEM wheel hubs are $400+ each. Rear wheel bearings are cheap, but are a huge pain since they have to be pressed off (slide hammer) and on.
Do you have to disable the electronic parking brake to do the front brakes?
It's a manual handbrake on these cars
2 doors
As always, it's a great video. I have a question... Can I install M sport calipers on the 4 wheels with the same brake master cylinder of my car which works with single piston calipers?
Depends on the car, but generally yes. The retrofit kit from BMW for the M-performance brakes on F2X and F3X does not include another master cylinder. The pedal feel will change a bit though, it's slighty softer and longer throw - but there is plenty of power.
@@LasseJOugaard Thanks a lot!!
My 5mm Allen's have all stripped 😂
😂😢
Just did my front and back and changed the brake fluids. It a little noisy but I think it will go away after bedding.
Did the noise go away? I have similar problem.
@@hn92did yours go away lol. Mine clunks.
Just out of curiosity do you have to do the rotors as well I’m going to be due for pads in November so just trying to plan for it
If the rotor has a severe lipped edge they it’s best to
The minimum thickness for the front rotors is 28,4mm. It’s ingraved in the rotors even.
Thanks
Well done.
Great guide.
Gareth FTW!
Bolts are "one time use" only... BMW, I don't believe you anymore.
Stretch bolts like head bolts, flywheel bolts, and these caliper bolts are all torque-to-yeild. This creates a high preload which helps them hold but it stretches the bolt when you get them up to their torque spec. That makes them more susceptible to fatigue so they should be replaced.
@@TheDudeAbides1776so what's the yield strength of these bolts then?
@@maxsam201 Depends on the thread type, diameter, and bolts metal composition but obviously it's 110nm/81ft/lbs since that's the torque spec. If you really want to know go put the specs into a torque calculator.
A thing to consider is the expansion and contraction the brake caliper encounters from heat, especially during track use. Bolt that's have been previously stretched are more susceptible to backing out.
People reuse them but the cost of a caliper coming off is way more than the $50ish it costs to replace all 8 caliper carrier bolts.
@@TheDudeAbides1776 I see no reason to continue with this. It appears that you are operating with some generic knowledge found on internet, and some of your statements make no real sense or baseless.
@@maxsam201 Dude, this is absolute basic mechanics. You don't need an engineering degree to understand torque-to-yeild bolts. Sounds like you're just too cheap to cough up $6 for a bolt.