Ian and Diana, very cool video, hope to see more frequent uploads in the future. I purchased the SharpStar 2 about 6 months ago, and even for a newbie to astrophotography, it makes the process much easier, highly recommend. Cheers.
Thanks Joe! Yeah hyperlapse is one of those things that I've tried many times at night and sometimes it goes great (see the opening sequence of this video) and other times it's a little wonky. It's one that requires a lot of patience and carful practice. I've been meaning to make a video about night hyperlapse specifically but I always feel like my progress with the skill is a little limited...
Really terrific video. Thanks for this. The hyper-lapse was very well done (regardless of your own modesty and skepticism insofar as the final results were concerned).
That was awsome. I'm just getting into photography and would love to try astrophotography eventually. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep up the good work on your channel. I'll stay tuned.
Enjoyed the review, and the hyperlapse. While positive, did not sound like the Rokinon bumped the zeiss batis 18mm out of your camera bag. Keep the videos coming!
I'm really glad I found Lonely Speck. You guys truly care about the wonders of astrophotography. What are your thoughts on the Sigma ART 24-35mm on a Sony A7R III (and a Red Epic-X?)
hi ian! I'm just starting photography and bought a 50mm 1.8 (on a Aps-C). do you think i can use that lens for the milky way? any tips for that? Thanks!
Good video, I enjoyed it! I have the Rokinon 16mm and love it! However, it does not take threaded filters. In wanting to improve my pictures I want to start using the Hoya red intensifier filter, so I need a different lense, and seriously looking at the 20mm. Do you use the Hoya red intensifier filter?
Great review and infield thoughts on this lens. How do you think it compares to the rokinon 14mm f2.8? If you could only have one of them which would you chose on a full frame camera like a canon 6D?
Lonely Speck of course, congrats! Would love to make it out west if you do end up holding one this year. Thanks for your work and cheers from Rhode Island!
is the 12mm Rokinon still your top pick lens for Sony Crop sensor cameras or do you think the Sigma 30mm 1.4 might be a new top pick? Can you share your thoughts, maybe put out a review to satisfy the APS-C folks. I purchased my Sony a6000 and Rokinon based on you're review of it for astro, would like to see some more updated reviews and maybe hyperloop editing work flow, also maybe some lighting techniques or weekly projects that we can go and try a mimic, email you results and pick winner for that weekly challenge for the site. Happy to see you back man you inspired me a huge deal. Your videos, Jason Lanier and Northups are my bible man don't leave us hanging!
I personally tend to recommend the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm/2 for Sony APS-C mirrorless cameras first. Here's why: It's small, its field of view is very special (ultra-wide-angle 18mm equivalent) and it's cheap. Dollar for dollar, the Rokinon 12mm/2 offers something that really differentiates it from the standard 16-50mm or 18-55mm kit lens. It also has a decently fast f/2 aperture which makes it a great choice for this kind of photography. That said.... if I were recommending a lens specifically for panorama stitching (e.g. ruclips.net/video/RDvXZyHUFvw/видео.html) on a Sony E camera, the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DN would be a good choice. Thanks so much! It's humbling to be compared ot Lanier and Northrup. --Ian
Thanks for your input, one last quick question, Sony is running the "Trade Up" program right now... Should I sell my a6000 and go with the A7ii my overall cost after everything should be around $1000 do you think that it is worth the cost? I'm in a constant fight on weather I should upgrade to the a6500 and sell my gear on Ebay or "trade up" and go full frame. If the answer is full frame what lens would you recommend besides the 14mm rokinon, reason I am excluding the 14mm it that is protrudes outwards and from what I am reading cant support lens filters. The struggle is real man lol... P.S I dont do ANY video work altho I might dabble into Cinemagraphs but I really could care less about the 4K stuff. I know it comes down to me and my wants but I need more of an outsiders opinion to help me home in on my decision process
Great video, i want to do something like this also, i will be coming to Colorado in the summer and plan on using my IRIX 15 mm f/2,4 with my Canon eos 6D and eos 60Da. Which one would be your choice for doing a time lapse and should i use a filter such as the red intensifier/enhancer , or clear ? ps. the IRIX is excellent for use with full frame 6D but the 60Da is specifically for AP use out of the box. Ernest
great video, Ian! I was wondering, your first image of Orion had incredible amounts of detail - is that one single image or did you use any methods like stacking to pull that nebulae from the sky?
I usually stack my photos and that one was a stack of 4 exposures. The second was a stack of 13 exposures. More details and full res photos here: www.lonelyspeck.com/rokinon-20mm-f1-8-astrophotography-review-joshua-tree-national-park/
Saw a guy on B&H say that he was disappointed in the Sigma 14mm 1.8 I'm comparison to his Rokinon 14mm I thought that was crazy, will you guys do a comparison review of the Sigma 14mm to the Rokinon the price is a huge difference but I'm wondering if the overall quality is as much of a difference.
Really hard to find reviews on this 20mm f1.8. How does it compare to the Sigma Art 20mm f1.4? Is the coma any better? I have owned the Sigma Art 20mm and was never really impressed with its sharpness below f2.8.
I cant seem to find a Lightroom lens correction profile, not sure if Abode support it yet. Does anyone know if there is a one available anywhere? Great video by the way :)
amazing ! I have this rokinon (samyang) 20mm (+a7rII) and I 'll be there (joshua tree) at the end of july. How did you do draw the lines of constellation at the beginning ??
I have commented on a separate video with the same question but seeing this video has put me at a tough spot. I am having a huge dilemma between the rokinon 14mm f2.8 vs 24mm f1.4 and now the rokinon 20mm f1.8. My camera is a Canon 6D. I would like to begin astrophotography. Can someone help me make a decision? The price is not a problem. I just don't know which one would be better for the camera. Is the faster aperture better or a wider lens or is the 20mm the best trade-off? Thank you in advance.
It is very, very similar. The corner performance (coma) is not quite as good as the 24mm/1.4 wide-open but overall contrast and sharpness seems to be a little higher wide-open. It's nearly the exact same size and weight too. I think it all comes down to whether or not you prefer a wider field of view.
To me it looks like the 24/1.4 still better for nightscaping. 50% faster and only 15% narrower = longer exposure time before stars start make tracks. In situations when you need more field of view, you can always shot panorama, which also brings more details, less noise, etc. Need something like 16/1.8 to be made :)
membler I have commented on a separate video with the same question but seeing this video has put me at a tough spot. I am having a huge dilemma between the rokinon 14mm f2.8 vs 24mm f1.4 and now the rokinon 20mm f1.8. My camera is a Canon 6D. I would like to begin astrophotography. Can someone help me make a decision? The price is not a problem. I just don't know which one would be better for the camera. Is the faster aperture better or a wider lens or is the 20mm the best trade-off? Thank you in advance. Also sorry if this question has been answered previously.
Boy, that's a tough one. I now have the Rokinon 24mm f1.4 and the new AF 14mm f2.8. I have used the original Nikon mount 14mm 2.8 with good results but have not had a chance to shoot night skies with the new AF version. If I was starting fresh I would probably go with the 20mm f1.8. Mike
7 лет назад
I really want to see an astrophoto rewiew on the zeiss 28mm f1,4 otus :)
Because there aren't many reviews about this lens on the internet, is anyone using it for landscape photography except astrophotography and are you happy with the results you get from it ? I plan to use it on an aps-c camera.
Why don't you buy a skywatcher star adventurer? You can take 5 min exposures with that lens easily and stop it at f4 to clear aberrations. Also you can mod the camera and remove the IR filter inside and have prettier photos with more HAlpha/red color.
A lot of my decision to not use trackers factors into overall equipment complexity. Using a tracker adds a lot of weight to my camera kit and greatly complicates shooting preparation. There's a whole extra thing to setup in addition to the camera/tripod. Trackers need to be polar aligned and that step is a big one to have to make for every new composition. I much prefer being able to move my composition around from shot to shot to find the most success in framing. Mostly, I've found that a tracker is pretty much unnecessary, except for very long lenses. Modern digital cameras paired with a reasonably fast lens can shoot untracked very successfully if stacking short exposures. Here's a recent edit (instagram.com/p/BSK6E1PjdLP/?taken-by=inorman) of a completely untracked stack of Rho Ophichi that looks as good as many tracked shots I've seen with longer integration times. Untracked astrophotography also has benefits: there's no need to shoot a separate exposure for the foreground as you can just stack all of your exposures and noise reduction in the sky is more successful because the motion of the stars across the frame, combined with re-alignment acts as a dither that successfully suppresses fixed pattern noise and hot pixels in addition to regular random shot noise. The result is a much easier workflow for both shooting and post processing, less overall equipment, less overall cost and more time spent shooting. A modded camera does allow for slightly more infrared and hydrogen alpha sensitivity but I've found the a7S is already reasonable in this sense and has plenty of h-alpha sensitivity for me to work with. Personally, I use my camera for much more than astro so the thought of modifying it such that it can't shoot daytime photos without the addition of another filter is not entirely appealing. I might consider getting a modded cheaper, aps-c camera as a night time vlog camera so that I can shoot with an infrared spotlight but it's not something that's high on the priority list.
Lonely Speck polar alignment for widefield astroimaging is not that time consuming. you can do it under 5 minutes. and the trackers aren't that heavy either. I know people that carry them in their backpacks when they go hiking. the modded dslr's are not slightly more sensitive to HAlpha, they are significantly more. I have modded my Canon 650d and the results are amazing. Now I can use a light pollution filter and shoot from red zones, without the need to travel to a dark site. besides if you use baader filter for the mod you can still use your camera for day time photography with custom white balance and keep accurate autofocus. your photos are very good already but they can get much better, thats why I recommend this ;)
doramason I still think 5 minutes for every composition is very limiting for the way I shoot. I owned the Vixen Polarie for about a year and even as one of the smallest and lightest trackers out there, it was like carrying an extra DSLR and lens around, maybe even heavier. I'm often traveling out of a backpack for months at a time (Diana and I travel full time) and the extra weight is a huge factor in my decision to not carry one with me. I basically limit myself to a camera body, tripod, 2x lenses and an accessory bag with my headlamp, some batteries, a rode videomicro, and my filter holder with 2x filters.
any sense how this lens compares to the Tokina 14-20mm f/2 AT-X PRO DX and the Rokinon 16mm f/2.0 for a D5600? Love my Tamron 35mm f/1.8 but want a wider lense.
Well I shot the 20mm/1.8 on full frame so there's quite a bit of difference there... The Tokina 14-20 should get you a bit closer in terms of field of view when zoomed out to 14mm on your D5600.
@@deeber35 I have not personally used the Tokina 14-20 but I've seen some reviews that regard it in very good light. LensTip has a review that shows it has nearly no detrimental coma aberration... perfect for astrophotography.
I prefer the look of a longer lens for portraits. The 35mm would be good for full-body compositions and still offer a great amount of depth of field control. Ultimately, I think a 50mm-85mm is my favorite range for portraits.
skillzcs I will probably keep my a7S untill there is a mark III version. If you want 4K video and built in stabilization, I would go for the a7SII. Otherwise, image quality for stills is identical.
want to ask something not related this.i have a 18-55 mm lens so i never a get a wide photo for milkyway as i only get the half part of the milkyway.but i wnt to compose a beautiful forground with the milkyway.how can i do it?? can i shoot the sky and foreground separetely and then stack them.plz help me
Sanidur Ahmed 18mm is still quite wide but my recommendation would be to use panorama stitching to increase your field of view. I have a video of that somewhere... (Medium Format Astrophotography)
Most of the entrances kiosks will close after dark and you can just drive in. Once in, you're pretty free to go wherever you want and there are plenty of places to pull off and park legally. There are 3 (?) entrances into the park. 2 on the north side and 1 on the south side. Most of the points of interest are on the north side.
Not Astro modified. Most cameras are a little bit sensitive to those bands. I have a comparison of a normal camera and an astro modified camera coming up in the near future.
Rubinson's Thoughts in this case, I focused on the foreground and even focus pulled as I moved closer to the tree. usually, I would just focus on the stars...
How this perform in terms of shooting landscapes during daytime? Which one has better image quality/sharpness - 20mm or 14mm rokinon? P.S - I like the 14mm,but not having filter thread is a bit of a pain for long exposure landscapes
Hi Lik, The a5100 and the 18-55/3.5-5.6 should be a good tool to start learning astrophotography. I recommend shooting at 18mm(zoomed out), 25 seconds, f/3.5, ISO 6400. Check out lonelyspeck.com for some more beginner friendly guides.
Yuri, yes, the a6000 is a very advanced camera and that's why it's as expensive as it is. I think an even better choice for a lower price might be a used Sony Nex 5N or Canon EOS M. That or even a used micro 4/3 camera like a used Olympus PEN E-PL2.
Yuri Mohan Micro 4/3 is a camera system that uses a 4/3 inch sensor. It's called 4/3 because it uses a 4/3" (or 1.33") sensor. Panasonic and Olympus are the primary manufacturers of micro 4/3 cameras.
Check out ruclips.net/video/Rydg7JGTAbw/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/zzVSm64zq44/видео.html to learn how I reduce noise. the 7D Mark II is a great camera. Two of my top recommendations for astrophotography lenses on the 7DII are the Sigma 18-35mm/1.8 and the Tokina 11-20/2.8.
Deedi Assoc night photography is often a compromise between using a wide open aperture for light gathering or stopping down a little to reduce aberration or increased sharpness. In the case of this lens, it still performs pretty well at f/1.8
John Johansson I most shot at f/1.8 and actually focused on the trees mostly. in some shots, the stars are actually out of focus while the tree is sharp. I suppose it depends on how close I was to the tree. if it's farther than 15 feet... I just focus on to stars.
If we compare all three of these lenses wide-open, the Rokinon/Samyang 20mm f/1.8 definitely has better coma performance and comparable chromatic aberration (none of the 20mms correct CA very well) performance. Stop any of them down by 1 stop and they tend to look really close.
I have the Sigma 20 Art and while it is better with coma than other lenses in my kit, it isn't the best for coma, but cropping the frame (or stopping down) works wonders.
I've been shooting with a Canon T3i for a few years now but I'm thinking of switching to a m 4/3 system to have weather proofing, weight savings, and lenses that don't break the bank. I pretty much only shoot landscape photos and a tiny bit of astrophotography, any thoughts or recommendations?
Alex Guerra M4/3 will struggle with noise at higher ISO. I don't use my Olympus EM1 for astro. But it does have a few tricks like live composition for star trails and light trails.
Glad to see you back Ian!
Nice to see videos happening again!
Love the hyper lapse idea
You guys are simply the best. A big fan from Sweden ❤
Ian and Diana, very cool video, hope to see more frequent uploads in the future. I purchased the SharpStar 2 about 6 months ago, and even for a newbie to astrophotography, it makes the process much easier, highly recommend. Cheers.
Thanks Sharif! Glad you like the SharpStar2!
Nice to see your videos again, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Wow. Awesome photos.
Glad you're back :D
Great video and amazing images. Your work is inspiring. Love the hyperlapse as well and would enjoy seeing more of this technique. Thank you!
Thanks Joe! Yeah hyperlapse is one of those things that I've tried many times at night and sometimes it goes great (see the opening sequence of this video) and other times it's a little wonky. It's one that requires a lot of patience and carful practice. I've been meaning to make a video about night hyperlapse specifically but I always feel like my progress with the skill is a little limited...
Really terrific video. Thanks for this. The hyper-lapse was very well done (regardless of your own modesty and skepticism insofar as the final results were concerned).
That was awsome. I'm just getting into photography and would love to try astrophotography eventually. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep up the good work on your channel. I'll stay tuned.
Enjoyed the review, and the hyperlapse. While positive, did not sound like the Rokinon bumped the zeiss batis 18mm out of your camera bag. Keep the videos coming!
Lee Harrell yes, you are right. the Batis will stay in the bag. It's smaller, lighter and sharper with AF but also more than 2x the cost...
Fantastic as always!
Took nearly the same photo,with the image presenting Ariens belt and a hint of the nebulas but in a completely different country (UK)! Great vid!
So glad you're posting again 🤓
Great review! Have you used the Rokinon 50mm f/1.4 manual lens for milky way photography? Haven't heard much about this lens for astrophotography.
Welcome back Ian (Y)
Thank you very much for this video. I love it, along with all what I have seen so far.
Wow, great information! I will be following your site!!
I'm really glad I found Lonely Speck. You guys truly care about the wonders of astrophotography. What are your thoughts on the Sigma ART 24-35mm on a Sony A7R III (and a Red Epic-X?)
hi ian! I'm just starting photography and bought a 50mm 1.8 (on a Aps-C). do you think i can use that lens for the milky way? any tips for that? Thanks!
Good video, I enjoyed it! I have the Rokinon 16mm and love it! However, it does not take threaded filters. In wanting to improve my pictures I want to start using the Hoya red intensifier filter, so I need a different lense, and seriously looking at the 20mm. Do you use the Hoya red intensifier filter?
Considering purchasing this lens for canon, it's there another similar lens I should consider?
Love your stuff man... Thanks!
Hello from Romania.Nice vids.Keep up the good work:)
As far as I see, this location is in a class 2-3 Bortle scale, wich explains the gorgeous sky
thanks for the review :)
A enjoyed your review, Rokinon makes very nice sharp lenses at reasonable prices. They are very capable performers for wide field astrophotography.
Great review and infield thoughts on this lens. How do you think it compares to the rokinon 14mm f2.8? If you could only have one of them which would you chose on a full frame camera like a canon 6D?
Thanks for the video! I am thinking about this lens for a while now. Hope this helps me with my decision
really enjoyed the video 😀
Would you recommend sigma 20mm f1.4 for Astrophotography?
Great video and review, love all your content! Have there been any announcements for the astro meet up later this year yet?
No announcement for the meetup yet. I'm still figuring out where/when to host it. Getting married this year so that takes precedent!
Lonely Speck of course, congrats! Would love to make it out west if you do end up holding one this year. Thanks for your work and cheers from Rhode Island!
is the 12mm Rokinon still your top pick lens for Sony Crop sensor cameras or do you think the Sigma 30mm 1.4 might be a new top pick? Can you share your thoughts, maybe put out a review to satisfy the APS-C folks. I purchased my Sony a6000 and Rokinon based on you're review of it for astro, would like to see some more updated reviews and maybe hyperloop editing work flow, also maybe some lighting techniques or weekly projects that we can go and try a mimic, email you results and pick winner for that weekly challenge for the site. Happy to see you back man you inspired me a huge deal. Your videos, Jason Lanier and Northups are my bible man don't leave us hanging!
I personally tend to recommend the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm/2 for Sony APS-C mirrorless cameras first. Here's why: It's small, its field of view is very special (ultra-wide-angle 18mm equivalent) and it's cheap. Dollar for dollar, the Rokinon 12mm/2 offers something that really differentiates it from the standard 16-50mm or 18-55mm kit lens. It also has a decently fast f/2 aperture which makes it a great choice for this kind of photography. That said.... if I were recommending a lens specifically for panorama stitching (e.g. ruclips.net/video/RDvXZyHUFvw/видео.html) on a Sony E camera, the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DN would be a good choice. Thanks so much! It's humbling to be compared ot Lanier and Northrup. --Ian
Thanks for your input, one last quick question, Sony is running the "Trade Up" program right now... Should I sell my a6000 and go with the A7ii my overall cost after everything should be around $1000 do you think that it is worth the cost? I'm in a constant fight on weather I should upgrade to the a6500 and sell my gear on Ebay or "trade up" and go full frame. If the answer is full frame what lens would you recommend besides the 14mm rokinon, reason I am excluding the 14mm it that is protrudes outwards and from what I am reading cant support lens filters. The struggle is real man lol... P.S I dont do ANY video work altho I might dabble into Cinemagraphs but I really could care less about the 4K stuff. I know it comes down to me and my wants but I need more of an outsiders opinion to help me home in on my decision process
Great video, i want to do something like this also, i will be coming to Colorado in the summer and plan on using my IRIX 15 mm f/2,4 with my Canon eos 6D and eos 60Da. Which one would be your choice for doing a time lapse and should i use a filter such as the red intensifier/enhancer , or clear ? ps. the IRIX is excellent for use with full frame 6D but the 60Da is specifically for AP use out of the box. Ernest
Any idea how the quality of this lens compares to the samyang / rokinon 14mm?
Ian those Vintages style lense like Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 good for Astro?
Loved my Rokinon 20mm 👌🏻
great video, Ian! I was wondering, your first image of Orion had incredible amounts of detail - is that one single image or did you use any methods like stacking to pull that nebulae from the sky?
I usually stack my photos and that one was a stack of 4 exposures. The second was a stack of 13 exposures. More details and full res photos here: www.lonelyspeck.com/rokinon-20mm-f1-8-astrophotography-review-joshua-tree-national-park/
Lonely Speck thank you!
Saw a guy on B&H say that he was disappointed in the Sigma 14mm 1.8 I'm comparison to his Rokinon 14mm I thought that was crazy, will you guys do a comparison review of the Sigma 14mm to the Rokinon the price is a huge difference but I'm wondering if the overall quality is as much of a difference.
Really hard to find reviews on this 20mm f1.8. How does it compare to the Sigma Art 20mm f1.4? Is the coma any better? I have owned the Sigma Art 20mm and was never really impressed with its sharpness below f2.8.
Have you ever used a Batis (25 or 18) for astrophotography? I'm having trouble focusing it.
Man that's a killer sun star
This may be a dumb question but how the hell were you able to capture the stars on video? 0:53??
the sony a7s camera has insane lowlight capabilities. max iso of 409,600 whereas most dslrs do around 12800+ for the max iso
I cant seem to find a Lightroom lens correction profile, not sure if Abode support it yet. Does anyone know if there is a one available anywhere? Great video by the way :)
Great video!!!!
Great video! Is this lens compatible with a Canon EOS 550D ?
Are you pumped for the Sigma 14mm f1.8?
Brandon Pinter definitely!
I'll be holding off to see reviews of it first as its due to be roughly $1650 !
Is there a review of this? Would love to see this!
I'll be in Joshua tree next week hoping to do some astrophotography. Any suggestions? I've been there in the day before but never at night.
I’m going to answer my own question. Bring a beach/lawn chair. Lots of cholla cactus needles everywhere. Sitting on the ground = pain.
That was awesome.
amazing ! I have this rokinon (samyang) 20mm (+a7rII) and I 'll be there (joshua tree) at the end of july.
How did you do draw the lines of constellation at the beginning ??
Sounds like fun! I used Adobe After Effects to create the constellation lines on the opening sequence.
I have commented on a separate video with the same question but seeing this video has put me at a tough spot. I am having a huge dilemma between the rokinon 14mm f2.8 vs 24mm f1.4 and now the rokinon 20mm f1.8.
My camera is a Canon 6D. I would like to begin astrophotography. Can someone help me make a decision? The price is not a problem. I just don't know which one would be better for the camera. Is the faster aperture better or a wider lens or is the 20mm the best trade-off?
Thank you in advance.
Is this better than the rokinon 24mm 1.4? which one comes on your list? Your help, video, and effort is much appreciated. God bless
How does this lens compare to the Rokinon 24mm 1.4 in your opinion?
It is very, very similar. The corner performance (coma) is not quite as good as the 24mm/1.4 wide-open but overall contrast and sharpness seems to be a little higher wide-open. It's nearly the exact same size and weight too. I think it all comes down to whether or not you prefer a wider field of view.
To me it looks like the 24/1.4 still better for nightscaping. 50% faster and only 15% narrower = longer exposure time before stars start make tracks. In situations when you need more field of view, you can always shot panorama, which also brings more details, less noise, etc.
Need something like 16/1.8 to be made :)
Бескрайняя Плоть, Sigma is releasing a 14mm f/1.8! Hopefully it will be good!
membler I have commented on a separate video with the same question but seeing this video has put me at a tough spot. I am having a huge dilemma between the rokinon 14mm f2.8 vs 24mm f1.4 and now the rokinon 20mm f1.8.
My camera is a Canon 6D. I would like to begin astrophotography. Can someone help me make a decision? The price is not a problem. I just don't know which one would be better for the camera. Is the faster aperture better or a wider lens or is the 20mm the best trade-off?
Thank you in advance.
Also sorry if this question has been answered previously.
Boy, that's a tough one. I now have the Rokinon 24mm f1.4 and the new AF 14mm f2.8. I have used the original Nikon mount 14mm 2.8 with good results but have not had a chance to shoot night skies with the new AF version. If I was starting fresh I would probably go with the 20mm f1.8. Mike
I really want to see an astrophoto rewiew on the zeiss 28mm f1,4 otus :)
Does it have a filter thread?
Because there aren't many reviews about this lens on the internet, is anyone using it for landscape photography except astrophotography and are you happy with the results you get from it ? I plan to use it on an aps-c camera.
Why don't you buy a skywatcher star adventurer? You can take 5 min exposures with that lens easily and stop it at f4 to clear aberrations. Also you can mod the camera and remove the IR filter inside and have prettier photos with more HAlpha/red color.
A lot of my decision to not use trackers factors into overall equipment complexity. Using a tracker adds a lot of weight to my camera kit and greatly complicates shooting preparation. There's a whole extra thing to setup in addition to the camera/tripod. Trackers need to be polar aligned and that step is a big one to have to make for every new composition. I much prefer being able to move my composition around from shot to shot to find the most success in framing.
Mostly, I've found that a tracker is pretty much unnecessary, except for very long lenses. Modern digital cameras paired with a reasonably fast lens can shoot untracked very successfully if stacking short exposures. Here's a recent edit (instagram.com/p/BSK6E1PjdLP/?taken-by=inorman) of a completely untracked stack of Rho Ophichi that looks as good as many tracked shots I've seen with longer integration times. Untracked astrophotography also has benefits: there's no need to shoot a separate exposure for the foreground as you can just stack all of your exposures and noise reduction in the sky is more successful because the motion of the stars across the frame, combined with re-alignment acts as a dither that successfully suppresses fixed pattern noise and hot pixels in addition to regular random shot noise. The result is a much easier workflow for both shooting and post processing, less overall equipment, less overall cost and more time spent shooting.
A modded camera does allow for slightly more infrared and hydrogen alpha sensitivity but I've found the a7S is already reasonable in this sense and has plenty of h-alpha sensitivity for me to work with. Personally, I use my camera for much more than astro so the thought of modifying it such that it can't shoot daytime photos without the addition of another filter is not entirely appealing. I might consider getting a modded cheaper, aps-c camera as a night time vlog camera so that I can shoot with an infrared spotlight but it's not something that's high on the priority list.
Lonely Speck polar alignment for widefield astroimaging is not that time consuming. you can do it under 5 minutes. and the trackers aren't that heavy either. I know people that carry them in their backpacks when they go hiking.
the modded dslr's are not slightly more sensitive to HAlpha, they are significantly more. I have modded my Canon 650d and the results are amazing. Now I can use a light pollution filter and shoot from red zones, without the need to travel to a dark site. besides if you use baader filter for the mod you can still use your camera for day time photography with custom white balance and keep accurate autofocus.
your photos are very good already but they can get much better, thats why I recommend this ;)
doramason I still think 5 minutes for every composition is very limiting for the way I shoot. I owned the Vixen Polarie for about a year and even as one of the smallest and lightest trackers out there, it was like carrying an extra DSLR and lens around, maybe even heavier. I'm often traveling out of a backpack for months at a time (Diana and I travel full time) and the extra weight is a huge factor in my decision to not carry one with me. I basically limit myself to a camera body, tripod, 2x lenses and an accessory bag with my headlamp, some batteries, a rode videomicro, and my filter holder with 2x filters.
Have you tried using a genie mini for your hyperlaspses?
I always have trouble with stabilising the image for hyperlapses
How cold was it? You're by LA...even in winter that can't be too cold. Unless it's below 20, you can't complain much.
any sense how this lens compares to the Tokina 14-20mm f/2 AT-X PRO DX and the Rokinon 16mm f/2.0 for a D5600? Love my Tamron 35mm f/1.8 but want a wider lense.
Well I shot the 20mm/1.8 on full frame so there's quite a bit of difference there... The Tokina 14-20 should get you a bit closer in terms of field of view when zoomed out to 14mm on your D5600.
@@LonelySpeck Thanks. My main interest is in image quality. Any sense of comparison on that between these lenses?
@@deeber35 I have not personally used the Tokina 14-20 but I've seen some reviews that regard it in very good light. LensTip has a review that shows it has nearly no detrimental coma aberration... perfect for astrophotography.
Are you still using the canon eos 6D or are you using the sony alpha 7rii?
I don't know if you do portraits much, but if you do, would you recommend a 24mm 1.4 or a 35mm 1.4?
I prefer the look of a longer lens for portraits. The 35mm would be good for full-body compositions and still offer a great amount of depth of field control. Ultimately, I think a 50mm-85mm is my favorite range for portraits.
Do you plan to test 16-35 GM on stars?
Great work!! Somehow my time lapses only limits to 1080 using iMovie. All images are taken with SonyA7Rii. So frustrating.
You need a pro editing software , Adobe premier pro or like sony vegas will let you do 4k.
TurboStrong 44 Try Davinci Pro. It’s free.
I know its been awhile you still recommend this lense?
Hey Ian,is sony a7s still worth to buy or i should get the a7s ii version?
skillzcs I will probably keep my a7S untill there is a mark III version. If you want 4K video and built in stabilization, I would go for the a7SII. Otherwise, image quality for stills is identical.
want to ask something not related this.i have a 18-55 mm lens so i never a get a wide photo for milkyway as i only get the half part of the milkyway.but i wnt to compose a beautiful forground with the milkyway.how can i do it?? can i shoot the sky and foreground separetely and then stack them.plz help me
Sanidur Ahmed 18mm is still quite wide but my recommendation would be to use panorama stitching to increase your field of view. I have a video of that somewhere... (Medium Format Astrophotography)
Does the park just let you drive in and park like that at night? Thanks.
Most of the entrances kiosks will close after dark and you can just drive in. Once in, you're pretty free to go wherever you want and there are plenty of places to pull off and park legally. There are 3 (?) entrances into the park. 2 on the north side and 1 on the south side. Most of the points of interest are on the north side.
@@mrtwinkie0 Thanks so much for the detailed info. I appreciate it!
thanks 20 f1.8 lens report use 14 2.8 in full frame love wide angle images
Is this rokinon 20mm a full frame lens ?
Is your camera astro modified how are you getting the red hydrogen colours
Not Astro modified. Most cameras are a little bit sensitive to those bands. I have a comparison of a normal camera and an astro modified camera coming up in the near future.
While shooting your hyperlapse, I wonder if you focus on the stars or the foreground. thank you.
following
Rubinson's Thoughts in this case, I focused on the foreground and even focus pulled as I moved closer to the tree. usually, I would just focus on the stars...
How this perform in terms of shooting landscapes during daytime? Which one has better image quality/sharpness - 20mm or 14mm rokinon?
P.S - I like the 14mm,but not having filter thread is a bit of a pain for long exposure landscapes
and what do you think about using a7 II with the 12mm rokinon in crop mode?
Hi, do you have any advice if i use sony emount 18-55mm f3.5 OSS lens on my sony a5100 for astrophotography. Thx
Hi Lik, The a5100 and the 18-55/3.5-5.6 should be a good tool to start learning astrophotography. I recommend shooting at 18mm(zoomed out), 25 seconds, f/3.5, ISO 6400. Check out lonelyspeck.com for some more beginner friendly guides.
Lonely Speck Thanks so much
Lonely Speck your tutorials are very helpful, thank you for sharing your expertise.
Would you say it would be a good camera for a beginner. because I am thinking of saving for a interchangeable camera lens, Ian
No, I don't think so. A better interchangeable lens camera for a beginner to start with, in my opinion, is the Sony a6000.
Wait, The Sony a6000 would be a good camera for a beginner but the a600 is $549 isn't that a little pricey for a beginner. Ian
Yuri, yes, the a6000 is a very advanced camera and that's why it's as expensive as it is. I think an even better choice for a lower price might be a used Sony Nex 5N or Canon EOS M. That or even a used micro 4/3 camera like a used Olympus PEN E-PL2.
Yuri Mohan Micro 4/3 is a camera system that uses a 4/3 inch sensor. It's called 4/3 because it uses a 4/3" (or 1.33") sensor. Panasonic and Olympus are the primary manufacturers of micro 4/3 cameras.
how to reduce noise in astrophotography
i m using canon 7d mark ii & which lens good for crop sensor cameras for astrophotography ?
Check out ruclips.net/video/Rydg7JGTAbw/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/zzVSm64zq44/видео.html to learn how I reduce noise. the 7D Mark II is a great camera. Two of my top recommendations for astrophotography lenses on the 7DII are the Sigma 18-35mm/1.8 and the Tokina 11-20/2.8.
Hyperlapse at night one way to keep warm 😂
How will you get sharper image if you use 1.8 aperture?
Deedi Assoc night photography is often a compromise between using a wide open aperture for light gathering or stopping down a little to reduce aberration or increased sharpness. In the case of this lens, it still performs pretty well at f/1.8
Thanks :)...Which cheapest wide angle lens would you recommend for D750?
What aperture did you use to keep the tree and the stars in focus?
John Johansson I most shot at f/1.8 and actually focused on the trees mostly. in some shots, the stars are actually out of focus while the tree is sharp. I suppose it depends on how close I was to the tree. if it's farther than 15 feet... I just focus on to stars.
Thank you. Did you refocus between each shot? It must have been hard to do since you didn't have much time between each picture.
Yes, for the final hyperlapse when I walked towards the tree, I refocused between shots.
Lonely Speck Very impressive skills! :-)
do a vid on solar eclipse via dslr and wide angle lens, time lapse
Ah yes, I need to see if I'm going to be in the USA during the eclipse this year....
yeah, I'll probably be in Monte Carlo during the eclipse....
great video, thanks for sharing! i wonder how this lens compares to the nikon 20mm 1.8 and sigma 20mm 1.4 in terms of corner sharpness, CA and coma.
If we compare all three of these lenses wide-open, the Rokinon/Samyang 20mm f/1.8 definitely has better coma performance and comparable chromatic aberration (none of the 20mms correct CA very well) performance. Stop any of them down by 1 stop and they tend to look really close.
Lonely Speck thank you for the info!
I have the Sigma 20 Art and while it is better with coma than other lenses in my kit, it isn't the best for coma, but cropping the frame (or stopping down) works wonders.
Nice & Thanks :)
Thank you.
I've been shooting with a Canon T3i for a few years now but I'm thinking of switching to a m 4/3 system to have weather proofing, weight savings, and lenses that don't break the bank. I pretty much only shoot landscape photos and a tiny bit of astrophotography, any thoughts or recommendations?
Alex Guerra M4/3 will struggle with noise at higher ISO. I don't use my Olympus EM1 for astro. But it does have a few tricks like live composition for star trails and light trails.
can u map out the exact spot that you went?
This is the exact spot: goo.gl/maps/9vtde6bPmLU2
Great
I've already bought a 24mm 1.4, and 14mm f2.8, so I probably won't buy this lens unless I have an extra body to use
one word: vignetting.
get some hand warmers packets
Good idea. And some of those toe warmer packets.
Yea they work! I use them every winter. Really enjoy your vids! Keep them coming.
Man last time i was there for Astro we were being followed by coyotes