Honestly Joshua Bardwell is the best. Had a new drone. Didn't want to start. Watching all these videos series.... Got my quad in the air. Cheers Joshua. Keep being awesome. Ps. Strange to see only 1 person helping us trouble shoot made easy.
About accelerometer drift: I've fixed that several times by either replacing motors or, as you say, replacing the FC. I think it's vibration and/or, maybe a bad acceleromter
Wish I had seen this 24 hours ago, got drone stuck 40m in a tree with 25 degrees set and had to go home droneless, the next day I went and got fishing line and weights and after 2 long hours luckily I managed to get it out. If only I knew about the stick positions for calibration I could have saved my new battery from been fully discharged and had my drone back the same night 😑. I won't be the first or the last to do this make sure you set it to 180, if not recalibrate with the sticks and blip your way out. Thanks for this video.
Tip for angle mode flyers - if you find you can't adjust accelerometer trims with the stick commands, the craft needs to be in angle mode and disarmed for it to work since Betaflight 3.3.0. The fix is easy - move the slider in the Modes tab for Angle so when it's disarmed it's also in angle mode.
None of these videos gave me the answers to what was happening with mine. So I'm going to let you know, so "you're going to learn something today". It was nice to learn a couple of things like the CLI status command and the OSD (even if I don't plan to use it). My guess is there still going to be some out there that will still have an arming issue and the fix for my controller was to increase the Gyro and PID loop hz. Mine was defaulted at 1k on both and I knew most of the reasons it wouldn't arm, but this one was new. So now you have been learned...…..
I use my friends Taranis q x7 because I'm total new to flying but he has a pré arm. You heve to flip 2 switches before it arms, I think that's a safe solution. What u guys think about my first ever drone the EMAX HAWK 5 😁👌
my philosophy is more failsafe/idiotproof = more better. Only scenario i can imagine when prearm would not be a benefit is rearming midair. I rather increase risk of quad damage compared to flesh damage. can not speak about hawk 5 exept ppl seem to like it.
Maybe the TX should have 'knock proof' switch, those which require a pull motion to move positions? Great tips 're trees 👍 thank you. @JB, one thing I couldn't deduce was when the stick position programming becomes effective? Is this during the unarmed state? I actually want to avoid the classic down left/right to disarm/arm and have chosen a switch for this, are sticks enabled by default? One last point, yep accelerometer drift is quite pronounced on my KK2.1 board running 911 in self level, although SL is rarely used.
My t.hawk 2 is bound but won't arm. Channel mapping is off. When hooked to betaflight throttle is yaw, rudder is throttle...etc. Tried to mix it on the tx16s. Just updated the aetr 3. 1.86 or something... Maybe I updated and flashed the wrong internal rf module..I thought it was the 1 that was on there...idk ..got 7 plus hours on the dam thing.
I ran into the "accelerometer drift" problem on my QAV180, and I replaced the flight controller with the same type and ended there again. Than I changed from SP racing F3 evo to the omnibus F3 and the problem still exist. Now I'm planning to go for my omnibus F4 pro v2 (fake one, I've ordered from hobbyking), but I'm afraid that the problem will appear again. So it can't be the flight controller.
J B which way do you run your motors? With all of them turning into the quad or all away from the quad? Is there any other benefits other then keeping debris away is one way better then the other?
Hey I’m having an issue with the arming the quad when I arm I get the Angle flag and when I calibrate the accelerometer it still has the same flag. I then disabled the acc and when I arm the quad flips out I’ve checked motor direction and everything this isn’t a fresh build so I know the motors are all correct any ideas?
Pre-arm would still be best... Because the same "moving around on your shirt" that flips that arm switch, can also, and more easily, move your throttle position, pushing it down.
Binding all frsky receivers is pretty much the same. Hold down the bind/fs button with power off. Power on. RX is in bind mode now. In transmitter, enable bind mode. LED on the RX blinks, RX is bound.
Joshua Bardwell I was told by speedy bee that the OTG connector wouldn’t work with iPhone unless the FC was MFI certified. I just don’t want to spend $10 to find out the hard way.
1. Hold down the bootloader button. Plug in the USB cable while continuing to hold down the bootloader button. 2. Run the Impulse RC Driver Fixer app (impulserc.blob.core.windows.net/utilities/ImpulseRC_Driver_Fixer.exe). It should "fix" the driver successfully. If not, do not proceed. 3. Un-plug the USB cable. 4. While holding down the bootloader button, plug in the USB cable again. 5. Start the Betaflight Configurator app. In the upper-right corner pulldown menu, you should see "DFU". You can now flash the board. For more detailed instructions on how to install the STM32 drivers: ruclips.net/video/m4ygG6Y5zXI/видео.html
Hello, I have a question maybe you can help me... I Got here a bloody Wizard X220S. I know its badly begining =) Thing is, one motor didnt want to spin anymore after 50 lipos. (& trust me, i was so nice with throttle, & smooth as possible with stock settings) So i thought that the motor itself or even the ESC 4in1 burnt out, but i figured out after replacing both parts that my problem came from an another way... Could it be the Flight Controller ? I've looked for a answer but no body talk about that, only you & few about output motors on the FC... (In french too, but im french nvm) So i'm stuck now since 3 months with my first quad (brand new) & i changed the Crappy Esc 4in1 (god damn its hard) with a more experienced friend in the matter of soldering quads, without any success. Then we decided to be sure that the motor wasnt the cause, but nothing changed. After bunch of searches, i saw other people having same issues, or kind of similar stuff, like the entire frame could burn at everytime after months of usage... Lol. Everyone else can maybe light me up here? But for now, im stuck with a quad with all brand new parts, & one horrible issue without any solid informations about it. Thank's, & Regards. Keep it up !
Could be the signal pad on the flight controller crapped out, that has happened to me. JB has a video on how to remap signal output pads. ruclips.net/video/FysPHx7RL9s/видео.html
Thank you guys but its an ESc 4 in 1... I've already watched that video poofire, I've obviously done everything i could like flashing & calibrating. So there is only one cable goin to the FC, its a little 4-pin... How should i do to remap that kind of connection :S
When you have just taken off, the quad watches to see if you have screwed something up and is going to flip out. If it detects this, it disarms with the RUNAWAY flag. When it was sliding down the playground, it was moving different from how the sticks were commanding which made the FC think it was going to flip out.
JB, have you ever thought about setting the arming switch on a potentiometer? It looks safer to me. I had to do it in my first quad, because I was using a FlySky FS-T6 (with a tiny micro ppm receiver from DasMikro - I know, I screwed up buying this transmitter... But I already bought a X9D Plus SE). It only have 6 channels, so I set up the 2 potentiometers as the aux channels and use them as 3 positions switches. One of them armed the quad in the middle and disarm and turned the beeper on in the 3rd position. The other was for modes (angle, horizon and acro).
@@JoshuaBardwell Yeah, with a switch it's probably faster... But I think it's all the matter of getting used too. Or setting the pot + 1 switch, like you do with 2 switches. 😊 Anyway, those are only ideas I've been thinking about. 😊
Best practice would always be to turn the tx on first and not turn it off until after you've switched the quad off. Probably never have a problem in reality but I had an old quad on cleanflight freak out and fly around uncontrollably at one point. I've also seen / had rc cars shoot off because the tx has been switched off while the model is still plugged in. Should be fine with failsafe set up but wouldn't recommend it as a routine process. Plus raising the throttle a little is probably easier than switching the tx on and off all the time.
OriginalGingaNinja i understand that, but you switch it off after your done flying/driving and unplug the quad. I usually get the buzzer/beeper going low battery, land via disarm switch killing it..go up and unplug everything..then thats that...remote may stay on or off depending on if I turn it off(usually I do). If your not switching in a fresh battery immediately why leave your TX on? Besides failsafe should be setup so if remote goes off/loses connection the quad disarms/drops...if for some reason your turning off the TX while the quad is armed. I dont think anyone flies that way or shuts off their remote without disarming switch first.
@@videogamepolak0 Sorry, I thought you were suggesting turning the tx off before going over to pick your quad up and unplug it. Obviously if the quads unplugged it doesn't matter if you hit the arming switch. Yes failsafe should save you anyway but someone may get into that habit and later fly another model / different RC disapline that doesn't have failsafe.
I'm surprised you didn't talk about the CLI assign. I don't think the angle change option was in the Betaflight GUI, because I remember I had to change small angle in the CLI in 3.2 or 3.3. For some reason, my small angle got changed to 0 and it took me forever to figure out why it wasn't arming.
Love how passive agressive you are about this. I needed that.
Honestly Joshua Bardwell is the best. Had a new drone. Didn't want to start. Watching all these videos series.... Got my quad in the air. Cheers Joshua. Keep being awesome.
Ps. Strange to see only 1 person helping us trouble shoot made easy.
About accelerometer drift: I've fixed that several times by either replacing motors or, as you say, replacing the FC. I think it's vibration and/or, maybe a bad acceleromter
Boy did that msp flag throw me for a loop for awhile.This series is definitely going to help alot.
I got stuck in a tree last weekend and couldn't get it to arm to get it out. This was the reason! Thanks!
Wish I had seen this 24 hours ago, got drone stuck 40m in a tree with 25 degrees set and had to go home droneless, the next day I went and got fishing line and weights and after 2 long hours luckily I managed to get it out. If only I knew about the stick positions for calibration I could have saved my new battery from been fully discharged and had my drone back the same night 😑. I won't be the first or the last to do this make sure you set it to 180, if not recalibrate with the sticks and blip your way out. Thanks for this video.
Very helpful video Joshua!! Looking forward to more of these
Tip for angle mode flyers - if you find you can't adjust accelerometer trims with the stick commands, the craft needs to be in angle mode and disarmed for it to work since Betaflight 3.3.0. The fix is easy - move the slider in the Modes tab for Angle so when it's disarmed it's also in angle mode.
None of these videos gave me the answers to what was happening with mine. So I'm going to let you know, so "you're going to learn something today". It was nice to learn a couple of things like the CLI status command and the OSD (even if I don't plan to use it). My guess is there still going to be some out there that will still have an arming issue and the fix for my controller was to increase the Gyro and PID loop hz. Mine was defaulted at 1k on both and I knew most of the reasons it wouldn't arm, but this one was new. So now you have been learned...…..
What status code was showing?
Good question, it was angle. I even tried setting 'small_angle?' to 180, no dice, code still there.
I use my friends Taranis q x7 because I'm total new to flying but he has a pré arm. You heve to flip 2 switches before it arms, I think that's a safe solution. What u guys think about my first ever drone the EMAX HAWK 5 😁👌
my philosophy is more failsafe/idiotproof = more better. Only scenario i can imagine when prearm would not be a benefit is rearming midair. I rather increase risk of quad damage compared to flesh damage. can not speak about hawk 5 exept ppl seem to like it.
Maybe the TX should have 'knock proof' switch, those which require a pull motion to move positions?
Great tips 're trees 👍 thank you.
@JB, one thing I couldn't deduce was when the stick position programming becomes effective? Is this during the unarmed state? I actually want to avoid the classic down left/right to disarm/arm and have chosen a switch for this, are sticks enabled by default?
One last point, yep accelerometer drift is quite pronounced on my KK2.1 board running 911 in self level, although SL is rarely used.
Stick commands are mostly active when disarmed. If you have an arming switch mode, then stick arming is disabled.
My t.hawk 2 is bound but won't arm.
Channel mapping is off. When hooked to betaflight throttle is yaw, rudder is throttle...etc.
Tried to mix it on the tx16s.
Just updated the aetr 3. 1.86 or something...
Maybe I updated and flashed the wrong internal rf module..I thought it was the 1 that was on there...idk ..got 7 plus hours on the dam thing.
I ran into the "accelerometer drift" problem on my QAV180, and I replaced the flight controller with the same type and ended there again. Than I changed from SP racing F3 evo to the omnibus F3 and the problem still exist. Now I'm planning to go for my omnibus F4 pro v2 (fake one, I've ordered from hobbyking), but I'm afraid that the problem will appear again. So it can't be the flight controller.
J B which way do you run your motors? With all of them turning into the quad or all away from the quad? Is there any other benefits other then keeping debris away is one way better then the other?
ruclips.net/video/1BMZmnVdTxo/видео.html
Hey I’m having an issue with the arming the quad when I arm I get the Angle flag and when I calibrate the accelerometer it still has the same flag. I then disabled the acc and when I arm the quad flips out I’ve checked motor direction and everything this isn’t a fresh build so I know the motors are all correct any ideas?
Lol. I love bending over to pick up my quad and bumping the transmitter to arm it just as I grab it from wherever. It’s a real adrenaline boost. 😂
Turtle mode is best for tree crashes - even big quads. We've been stuck in so many trees we now give them names!
Pre-arm would still be best... Because the same "moving around on your shirt" that flips that arm switch, can also, and more easily, move your throttle position, pushing it down.
Can you explain how to bind a Frsky SR6 to Taranis plus with STK ?
Binding all frsky receivers is pretty much the same. Hold down the bind/fs button with power off. Power on. RX is in bind mode now. In transmitter, enable bind mode. LED on the RX blinks, RX is bound.
Does the JBF4 have MFI certificates? I haven’t received an answer from RDQ.
This question doesn't really make sense to me. Why would a flight controller have an apple certification?
Joshua Bardwell I was told by speedy bee that the OTG connector wouldn’t work with iPhone unless the FC was MFI certified. I just don’t want to spend $10 to find out the hard way.
LOL. There isn't a single FC in the world that is MFI certified. You can't use the Speedybee OTG with iPhone at all.
I never have my Accelerometer enabled but I am very sure this will help a ton of people.
If i am always in acro/angle mode i can just turn the accelerometer off correct?
Thanks Joshua!! Very helpful!
Great video!... what do you think of those dys motors I noticed on your CL1 I just bought a set myself
2207 are nice
@@JoshuaBardwell I'll have to try em I bought the 2306's but u can't beat them for the price
Hey Joshua I’m having a problem with rotor riot fc it has a red light on and it won’t connect to betaflight and the osd is not showing up at all
Reflash Betaflight if you can.
1. Hold down the bootloader button. Plug in the USB cable while continuing to hold down the bootloader button.
2. Run the Impulse RC Driver Fixer app (impulserc.blob.core.windows.net/utilities/ImpulseRC_Driver_Fixer.exe). It should "fix" the driver successfully. If not, do not proceed.
3. Un-plug the USB cable.
4. While holding down the bootloader button, plug in the USB cable again.
5. Start the Betaflight Configurator app. In the upper-right corner pulldown menu, you should see "DFU". You can now flash the board.
For more detailed instructions on how to install the STM32 drivers: ruclips.net/video/m4ygG6Y5zXI/видео.html
What's happening with the fatshark t2
It seems to be shipping now.
I personally prefer a pre-arm switch. I have it on a two way momentary switch.
Hello, I have a question maybe you can help me...
I Got here a bloody Wizard X220S. I know its badly begining =)
Thing is, one motor didnt want to spin anymore after 50 lipos. (& trust me, i was so nice with throttle, & smooth as possible with stock settings)
So i thought that the motor itself or even the ESC 4in1 burnt out, but i figured out after replacing both parts that my problem came from an another way... Could it be the Flight Controller ? I've looked for a answer but no body talk about that, only you & few about output motors on the FC... (In french too, but im french nvm)
So i'm stuck now since 3 months with my first quad (brand new) & i changed the Crappy Esc 4in1 (god damn its hard) with a more experienced friend in the matter of soldering quads, without any success. Then we decided to be sure that the motor wasnt the cause, but nothing changed. After bunch of searches, i saw other people having same issues, or kind of similar stuff, like the entire frame could burn at everytime after months of usage... Lol.
Everyone else can maybe light me up here?
But for now, im stuck with a quad with all brand new parts, & one horrible issue without any solid informations about it.
Thank's, & Regards.
Keep it up !
Could be the signal pad on the flight controller crapped out, that has happened to me. JB has a video on how to remap signal output pads.
ruclips.net/video/FysPHx7RL9s/видео.html
Try a known good motor in that position
Thank you guys but its an ESc 4 in 1... I've already watched that video poofire, I've obviously done everything i could like flashing & calibrating.
So there is only one cable goin to the FC, its a little 4-pin... How should i do to remap that kind of connection :S
AS i said, i've already done that.
I don't have the option below the arming section, it's blank. No option to change it.
Hit the "Add" button to add a range.
Joshua Bardwell yeah not sure why but I don't see that option either. I did end up figuring it out though in the cli. It's set small_angle = 120
I've got a funny one. I slid my quad down a slide at a playground. As it was sliding, my OSD flashed "runaway". What's up with that?!
When you have just taken off, the quad watches to see if you have screwed something up and is going to flip out. If it detects this, it disarms with the RUNAWAY flag. When it was sliding down the playground, it was moving different from how the sticks were commanding which made the FC think it was going to flip out.
JB, have you ever thought about setting the arming switch on a potentiometer? It looks safer to me.
I had to do it in my first quad, because I was using a FlySky FS-T6 (with a tiny micro ppm receiver from DasMikro - I know, I screwed up buying this transmitter... But I already bought a X9D Plus SE). It only have 6 channels, so I set up the 2 potentiometers as the aux channels and use them as 3 positions switches. One of them armed the quad in the middle and disarm and turned the beeper on in the 3rd position. The other was for modes (angle, horizon and acro).
Problem with this is, how do you disarm quickly in an emergency?
@@JoshuaBardwell Yeah, with a switch it's probably faster... But I think it's all the matter of getting used too. Or setting the pot + 1 switch, like you do with 2 switches. 😊
Anyway, those are only ideas I've been thinking about. 😊
my problem is that it says : CALIB
and i need to restart the quad over and over again
also i have calibrated my quad but it still wont want to work
The linked playlist has a video about the CALIB flag.
Mine is set to 180 and still has this error
or just turn your transmitter remote off in between flying? that way if you hit the arm switch it wont work anyways.
Best practice would always be to turn the tx on first and not turn it off until after you've switched the quad off. Probably never have a problem in reality but I had an old quad on cleanflight freak out and fly around uncontrollably at one point. I've also seen / had rc cars shoot off because the tx has been switched off while the model is still plugged in. Should be fine with failsafe set up but wouldn't recommend it as a routine process. Plus raising the throttle a little is probably easier than switching the tx on and off all the time.
It's bad practice to ever turn off your transmitter while your aircraft is powered up.
OriginalGingaNinja i understand that, but you switch it off after your done flying/driving and unplug the quad. I usually get the buzzer/beeper going low battery, land via disarm switch killing it..go up and unplug everything..then thats that...remote may stay on or off depending on if I turn it off(usually I do). If your not switching in a fresh battery immediately why leave your TX on?
Besides failsafe should be setup so if remote goes off/loses connection the quad disarms/drops...if for some reason your turning off the TX while the quad is armed. I dont think anyone flies that way or shuts off their remote without disarming switch first.
With my radio gear, if I'm using a RX with two-way communication the TX won't turn off as long as the RX is turned on.
@@videogamepolak0 Sorry, I thought you were suggesting turning the tx off before going over to pick your quad up and unplug it. Obviously if the quads unplugged it doesn't matter if you hit the arming switch. Yes failsafe should save you anyway but someone may get into that habit and later fly another model / different RC disapline that doesn't have failsafe.
The throttle rise to stop arming I have been doing for a while now
Hiii
Hiii😁 like your logo, just clicked on your channel. Cool edit on the ski jump. Nice place to fly.👍Subbed
Hahaha, thank you so much 😉 You fly in awesome place too! I sub also haha
@@MonsieurMouche Great, thanks! 😁
Great info thx!
Got your hair cut?
Wow Joshua 2018 is tan
I'm surprised you didn't talk about the CLI assign. I don't think the angle change option was in the Betaflight GUI, because I remember I had to change small angle in the CLI in 3.2 or 3.3. For some reason, my small angle got changed to 0 and it took me forever to figure out why it wasn't arming.
It got added to the gui in BF configurator a while back now.
OriginalGingaNinja sweet. The tutorial I read must have been made before the GUI showed up.
@@JaredWhittle It definitely was something you had to do in the cli in the past, nice they've put it in the gui now.
Always use my throttle. I land disarm throttle up and then go unplug. Learned that by accident. Call me stubby.
Easy fix bro just turn off the accelerometer fly and Acro mode all the time
Just disable dat damn Accelerometer. No one needs it anyway. Unless ur dat guy who still flies angle mode.
If you get stuck in trees "All the Time" you shouldn't fly so close to trees.
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