this, a quick test bench could be using them as a wheel bearing for a little cart and add some weight on it, and by using a little ramp as initial acceleration, see which roller goes further.
I was just about to say the same thing. wd40 is not a lubricant (it can be temporarily) proper grease or oil should be used, probably a nice silicone grease.
Yeah the test is pretty much invalid. WD40 softens the plastic and it's really really thin it's main idea isn't to "lubricate" stuff but to dissolve rust and free up seized parts. This video is a waste of time.
@@D3s71nY As long as @Let's Print leaves the comments open so people can point out mistakes, I don't think it's a waste of time. I think the testing method needs a lot of improvement, but I also enjoyed watching it. There are some RUclips channels which delete comments pointing out mistakes. The Raspberry Pi Guy is one such channel (there are a lot of dead Pi boards from people following his directions).
The point of bearings is to test them under load just to spin them without load is no point, that's why bearings usually don't have oil but grease, but otherwise great videos keep up the good work. Ära südamesse võta väikest kriitikat.
well there are some things you can bagage along from early tests without any load because the bearing will always be under its own load. Noise, temperature and the delta of time at free spinning do contain telling characteristics 99% of the cases. And with known materials like 3d printed objects this can be extrapolated to 99.9% of the cases. With the right math that is, just like something as Ultrasonic testing. Oh and when you see white ball bearing material come out of the crevices when spinning freely with a simple motor, setting up a test with load would just take up more time to get the same result.
@@Dennio83 🔹"with known materials like 3d printed objects this can be extrapolated to 99.9% of the cases" ▪ya but I didn't come to youtube to do the thinking for myself. 🔹"setting up a test with load would just take up more time to get the same result" ▪would make for good content none-the-less
A measuring tip: Use the thicker part of the calipers instead of the slim point to measure anything round, you'll have an easier time getting accurate measuring results.
@@xxportalxx. At the very base of the yaws, there should be a big relief, but if your calipers are not closing properly along most of the yaw, they are either poorly manufactured or damaged/worn out. As far as I'm concerned the sharp end is only for measuring narrow details where the whole width does not fit.
@@2testtest2 I'll let you Google some pics for yourself, but not all designs are meant to (i.e. it isn't just a manufacturing defect, it's the design itself). I have a pair where the relief taper begins directly after the sharp edge for instance, some designs come together like tweezers as well
I noticed that the airsoft bearing had a curved form for the balls to run in. Maybe it would wear out slower if the balls weren't to run with full contact with the bearing surface but only on the edges.
In normal bearing, the race are a little bigger than the balls, with no load the contact area is small and it widen as the load increase. If the balls rub on the side it's a design flaw.
I can tell you what happened to the bearing without even opening it. You used WD-40, which is NOT a lubricant, as such. Grease or PTFE oil would have been much better choices ;)
@@grantscott1686 Melamine is extremely brittle, and it's basically a barely fused powder. It's intended to blow apart when it hits something, which is why it's crumbling into bits. PC is what CDs are made of, it's much tougher, as is metal. Either of them would wear the bearing race into clearance, rather than the balls crumbling.
@@sac3528 Yeah they're designed to degrade easily since airsofters will shoot 10s of thousands of BBs in a forest and they're not going to pick them all up.
It would be fantastic to see this very interesting test again - but with grease and also with the bearings under load! I'm so glad I've found your channel :-)
Actually, ball bearings are designed for high speed. What you're not accounting for is shock loading. When the drill motor starts and stops suddenly it puts a large amount of stress on the part and can cause premature failure
The 3rd ‘bearing’ is a planetary gear, and usually what connects to it, would be orbit gears, which makes up the planetary gear assembly, which is typically used in car transmissions.
What kind of airsoft bbs did you use here? The white ones are usually made of a verry soft biodegradable material, just something you have to be realy careful with
That's an interesting point. It looks like 0,20 or even less regular bbs. I was wondering the result with 0.30 or 0.40 bbs. Also to use some grease as used in the airsoft gear, instead the WD40.
7:17 A number of things can cause the increase in play. For starters, planetary gear bearings produce more friction and heat because there are more points of in contact while spinning. This can cause the plastic to soften up and reshape. It could also be wear and tear as you mentioned.
if you weigh the bearings before and after you would know how much has worn off. Weigh before you grease. Then wipe the grease off before the 2nd weight. You want to remove any particles that might have worn off but still be in the grease.
Maybe filling the bearings with a lot of bullets is not the best idea ? You should put less bullets and some sort of spacer between them just like industrial bearings. Great video :)
WD-40 isn’t a lubricant, it’s actually a light degreaser. It’s designed to loosen up grease/lube. When you spray WD-40 on a door hinge, you aren’t lubricating the hinge, you’re just sort of “re-activating” the lube that was already there.
@@FOSSIL13drums Beat me to it... WD-40 is primarily a penetrant, for breaking loose rusted bolts, it has insufficient lubricants to make this a good application
Very interesting and thank you. The second bearing style you tested, is a conical bearing, and Christoph Laimer has another version that he calls "slew bearings". If you print the bearings first, you can print the inner and outer races together up to a little more than 50% and carefully drop in the bearing and continue the print. This way you don't need screws. There is the idea of an "airbrush nozzle" that could make that even easier which I am about to try. Also, I found that AirSoft projectiles are either Non-biodegradable airsoft BBs are usually made from a plastic acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) OR Biodegradable Airsoft BBs are usually made from a plastic polylactic acid or polylactide (PLA).
I’ve been trying experimenting and I’ve found the best way is to make it square where the ballbearings are seated and make the tolerances tight you will have a low friction and almost zero play
Hy nice idea to print ball bearings. This is intended to manufacture a new wareant but not for continuous use and high speeds. Your water pump is impressive in the line. you can insert grease bearings in between the bearings, this helps against corrosion and seals.
The ball bearing doesn’t actually spin long if you watch carefully you can clearly see that it’s stops really fast. But all in all I love 3D Printing so great job 👏
Roller bearings are great for high loads. My '98 Audi uses them in the hub bearings for better longevity when cornering hard. Only those are all in parallel.
1st. never put gloves when you working with rotating mechanism. 2nd. polish surface of moving parts it will decrease heat. 3rd. put some lubricant on moving parts.
I'd imagine there's a fair amount of difference between the plastics used between bb manufacturers since the type of plastic used isn't particularly important. transparant bbs are likely made of significantly harder plastics and might hold up better
I have been able to get some impressively low friction ball bearings using plastic 6mm BB shot and PLA. They work very well at low speed (ie a few dozen RPM - I don't need them to run any faster so don't know if/when they will fail) without any lubricant and with no apparent wear.
Yeah for real. It just looks cool but it doesn't really stop plastic rubbing on plastic. Maybe if it was a small center gear it would reduce friction more. But then it would be even bigger than it already is
I was really bothered by those bugs scattering at the beginning of the video until I realized they were ball bearings. Guess I should wear my glasses... Anyway. Cool video.
If you lower the tolerances between gears and add a temporary grease in the gears you can make the gears "wear mesh" without creating massive play. Any inperfection will powder grind and create abrasive that grinds the gears, grease will capture and protect the gears while they are ground down and hardened.
Great video, i get a lot of inspiration from your channel. Unrelated but: what is the first background music track in this video? I havent heard it for years and have been searching for it! 😂
That's a weird gearbearing you've tested. The nice thing about 3D printed gearbearings (Emmets gear bearing the legendary classic) is that there's no need for axles for planetgears or a cage.
Hi! Any gears (metal too!) goes through "team play" process. After working together for some amount of hours they're has to being checked and re-assembled if everything is fine. So you've just got rid of excess material. If you want really test this bearing you should make some moving system that will be giving adequate loads. This will show if it will be working fine or will fail.
Pretty interesting. The results aren't really surprising though. I bet if you made solid roller bearings and could get them to print in such a way that the end was clean, then it would improve performance even more. It would be interesting to see.
It's great that you are using ABS! PLA is just useless.. Interesting results, but I think you could repeat some testing: -You should put some some grease in between the gears on the geared one obviously. And see if it still wears out. -Use grease (or Talcum powder) in the ball bearing, instead of WD40. -Also try printing the balls for the ball bearing in ABS instead of using the bullets. Thanks! :)
@@LetsPrintYT This test is not conclusive. None of the results are good. WD40 is not a lubricant and you didn't grease gears. But I do like your videos, I just think you messed up on this one and it's sad as this was an interesting test.
So I am trying to have something made where the object stays still in the center and a camera moves around that, can you design something like that to print, I think it will probably use a bearing in the center and screw to platform so the outside of the bearing can be apart of whatever the camera is mounted to
I think the pellets hardness is lower than abs. They are typically made out of abs with some other additives which might lower the hardness, thus they grind against the standard abs?
I wonder what ABS he prints with, but ABS is very different from each other. It can be pre-degraded from regrind, reusing the moulding leftovers in a new batch of product, and especially if you look at small pellets, you have to suspect that a lot of flashing and injection spouts were removed from them and reused in the next batch of pellets, and every cycle of heating degrades the polymer quite a bit, so you expect some polymer in there that is maybe 10 generations of regrind. It tends to contain free styrene, thus the printing smell - and you know that not all ABS filament has the nauseating smell at least not to the same amount - and it tends to also contain free styrene flake that separates out and makes for low abrasion resistance. It has also been suspected that some 3d printing filament manufacturers, what they sell as ABS really isn't, but is a different styrene copolymer, like SAN or ASA, because printing actual ABS is more troublesome. Even just a reduction of butadiene can make for something that is nominally ABS but really is closer to SAN, so less or no free butadiene and less or no free styrene, as butadiene has been shown to inhibit styrene polymerisation. So i have seen ABS samples with vastly different mechanical properties.
Aye, the balls being a different material to the casing, was always going to result in faster degradation of the softer material. Was great to see the stability of the other 2, I assume the same abs was used for all active surfaces? clean, accurately printed parts, so it should be universal wear over time, dependant on heat, or ingress of dust, dirt, or other contaminates. 3d printing just keeps leaping forward in quality, and affordability. It's great.
The roller bearing did better because it could withstand both axial (your hand pushing the drill along the imaginary axle) and radial (the weight of the drill, your hand holding the bearing, and other forces perpendicular to the imaginary axle) load, thus making it last longer, with the trade-off being the increased friction.
I had a fidget spinner that got some dirt and stuff gone inside of its bearing and I didn't realize it but when I opened the fidget spinner to hopefully lube the bearing,the bearing fell into pieces on the table.The sand had grinded between the two rings and the balls were also in pretty bad shape.The inner ring and the outer ring had a lot of scorching in the place where the balls spinned.The spinner was spinning freely even with the sand was in there, but I could occasionally hear grinding noises while it was spinning.
I need some bearings that can work in water, maybe even sea water. My plan was to print the races or machine them from Teflon and use stainless ball bearings. From your trial it looks like the printed races could hold up if the stainless balls dont wear each other too much.
Good video. I am looking for a Pawl/Riving option or design that a sphere is what is rotating instead of the wheels around it., a pawl sphere if you will. Any chance you know anything like this? Also be careful using gloves when you're using anything that is rotating. cheers.
3D printer bearings are pointless for smaller bearings but anything with a thumb sized hole or larger actually becomes cost effective. A bearing you can put your hand through costs a noticeable portion of a paycheck.
crossed roller bearings are just a different type of roller bearing, they're just as valid as normal roller bearings they just have different applications.
Good work. Thanks. For proper test size of the devices should be the same. And same lubricant used. Someone said wd40 melts plastic and no good for lubrication. But very good work. Make another fair test. And use metal balls.
If the two materials differ in hardness, one of them will begin to wear the other more quickly. We see this in ceramic bearings that use steel as a racer material - the steel is worn by the ceramic and the rolling resistance increases. Obviously it is much faster with plastic.
I'm gonna post the bearing system that I've been using in my AX-2 hard-suit replica. Silent in operation, only one moving part, only two printed parts. No balls or rollers! Two types of bearing will be offered: one has a 'split-race' to allow rapid assembly/disassembly, the other has a 'gated race' for a seamless outer race. They consist of an inner race, and outer race and bit of filament to act as the actual bearing. Kind of like a 4-point bearing, but a piece of smooth filament instead of rolling balls... Printables will be hosting; look for "AX Hard Suit bearings" some time after 11/25/2022.
You should test them with some radial/axial load.
I mean, the purpose of a bearing is to guide movement while under stress
this, a quick test bench could be using them as a wheel bearing for a little cart and add some weight on it, and by using a little ramp as initial acceleration, see which roller goes further.
please dont use wd40 as lubricant for plastic parts😖
I was just about to say the same thing. wd40 is not a lubricant (it can be temporarily) proper grease or oil should be used, probably a nice silicone grease.
Yep, my bad 🙈
Yeah the test is pretty much invalid. WD40 softens the plastic and it's really really thin it's main idea isn't to "lubricate" stuff but to dissolve rust and free up seized parts. This video is a waste of time.
@@D3s71nY As long as @Let's Print leaves the comments open so people can point out mistakes, I don't think it's a waste of time.
I think the testing method needs a lot of improvement, but I also enjoyed watching it.
There are some RUclips channels which delete comments pointing out mistakes. The Raspberry Pi Guy is one such channel (there are a lot of dead Pi boards from people following his directions).
I like spray silicone grease, it puts a thin film over everything. The solvent dries really quickly and the lubricant stays.
Instead of printing the roller bearings you could possibly use perler beads.
And for a smaller bearings, I think we could use ptfe tubing as well.
That’s exactly what I thought he used when I saw them in the thumbnail, then I saw them on the printer and stood corrected.
That's an excellent idea, to be honest.
JD The Vagitarian me too
That's what i thought he would use based on the thumbnail. Disappointed he didn't test with beads
The point of bearings is to test them under load just to spin them without load is no point, that's why bearings usually don't have oil but grease, but otherwise great videos keep up the good work. Ära südamesse võta väikest kriitikat.
well there are some things you can bagage along from early tests without any load because the bearing will always be under its own load. Noise, temperature and the delta of time at free spinning do contain telling characteristics 99% of the cases. And with known materials like 3d printed objects this can be extrapolated to 99.9% of the cases. With the right math that is, just like something as Ultrasonic testing. Oh and when you see white ball bearing material come out of the crevices when spinning freely with a simple motor, setting up a test with load would just take up more time to get the same result.
@@Dennio83
🔹"with known materials like 3d printed objects this can be extrapolated to 99.9% of the cases"
▪ya but I didn't come to youtube to do the thinking for myself.
🔹"setting up a test with load would just take up more time to get the same result"
▪would make for good content none-the-less
0:59 the ball rolling away: "FREE! I'M FREE!!"
Dubby 8:48 Yeaeeeeeeee!
When the plastic balls rule the earth he will payback for this torture he did to their people.
I am a science teacher, and I am currently printing demonstration parts for 10 common mechanisms. Your channel was super useful!!!
A measuring tip: Use the thicker part of the calipers instead of the slim point to measure anything round, you'll have an easier time getting accurate measuring results.
I've found some calipers don't have a flush end, the sharp tips are accurate but the thicker section have reliefs cut in
@@xxportalxx. At the very base of the yaws, there should be a big relief, but if your calipers are not closing properly along most of the yaw, they are either poorly manufactured or damaged/worn out. As far as I'm concerned the sharp end is only for measuring narrow details where the whole width does not fit.
@@2testtest2 I'll let you Google some pics for yourself, but not all designs are meant to (i.e. it isn't just a manufacturing defect, it's the design itself). I have a pair where the relief taper begins directly after the sharp edge for instance, some designs come together like tweezers as well
I noticed that the airsoft bearing had a curved form for the balls to run in. Maybe it would wear out slower if the balls weren't to run with full contact with the bearing surface but only on the edges.
In normal bearing, the race are a little bigger than the balls, with no load the contact area is small and it widen as the load increase.
If the balls rub on the side it's a design flaw.
interesting.
i was also evaluating the use of a little bearing grease
I can tell you what happened to the bearing without even opening it. You used WD-40, which is NOT a lubricant, as such. Grease or PTFE oil would have been much better choices ;)
Are those biodegradable BB's?
The moment I saw him use wd-40 I knew there would be a heat failure. needed to use lithium grease or maybe gun oil.
@@omega52390 Lithium grease is also a good one 🤘
Silicone grease with PTFE is a good plastic lubricant, as already said WD40 isn't designed as a long term lube.
@@tylerbennetts8079 Is that the same as silicone oil or is it more viscous?
you get my like just because you mentioned who's video it was about. a lot many people don't do that they just use it with no reference or mentioning.
So the second one wins overall. Cool!
BB Bearing needs to use metal or polycarbonate bbs, not melamine.
What is the reason for that? I’m curious.
@@grantscott1686 Melamine is extremely brittle, and it's basically a barely fused powder. It's intended to blow apart when it hits something, which is why it's crumbling into bits. PC is what CDs are made of, it's much tougher, as is metal. Either of them would wear the bearing race into clearance, rather than the balls crumbling.
@@sac3528 Oh ok I thought maybe that had something to do with it but wasn't 100%
@@sac3528 Yeah they're designed to degrade easily since airsofters will shoot 10s of thousands of BBs in a forest and they're not going to pick them all up.
The commitment of holding the bearings for 5 minutes each for test is just awesome let's help this guy reach to 1million subs
You have a new sub 😁😁😁😁👍👍👍👍
It would be fantastic to see this very interesting test again - but with grease and also with the bearings under load! I'm so glad I've found your channel :-)
R those air soft pellets?
Also what screw kit do you use?
Actually, ball bearings are designed for high speed. What you're not accounting for is shock loading. When the drill motor starts and stops suddenly it puts a large amount of stress on the part and can cause premature failure
The balls are rubbing against one another. Not a problem with hardened steel, but with plastic it's a thing.
Stress in what direction?
I found that using copper-coated steel BBs worked really nicely and did not start breaking down under load, I used dry graphite lubricant too.
The 3rd ‘bearing’ is a planetary gear, and usually what connects to it, would be orbit gears, which makes up the planetary gear assembly, which is typically used in car transmissions.
What kind of airsoft bbs did you use here? The white ones are usually made of a verry soft biodegradable material, just something you have to be realy careful with
That's an interesting point. It looks like 0,20 or even less regular bbs. I was wondering the result with 0.30 or 0.40 bbs. Also to use some grease as used in the airsoft gear, instead the WD40.
@@DavidColomer may be TIC_TAC?
Also consider that gears like the ones on the gear bearing are only stable in one direction
7:17 A number of things can cause the increase in play. For starters, planetary gear bearings produce more friction and heat because there are more points of in contact while spinning. This can cause the plastic to soften up and reshape. It could also be wear and tear as you mentioned.
if you weigh the bearings before and after you would know how much has worn off. Weigh before you grease. Then wipe the grease off before the 2nd weight. You want to remove any particles that might have worn off but still be in the grease.
Maybe filling the bearings with a lot of bullets is not the best idea ? You should put less bullets and some sort of spacer between them just like industrial bearings. Great video :)
The WD-40 might have had an effect on the BBs. Supposedly WD-40 will degrade plastics. Cool experiment though 👍
WD-40 isn’t a lubricant, it’s actually a light degreaser. It’s designed to loosen up grease/lube. When you spray WD-40 on a door hinge, you aren’t lubricating the hinge, you’re just sort of “re-activating” the lube that was already there.
@@FOSSIL13drums Beat me to it... WD-40 is primarily a penetrant, for breaking loose rusted bolts, it has insufficient lubricants to make this a good application
You should also test the print in place gear bearing
Very interesting and thank you.
The second bearing style you tested, is a conical bearing, and Christoph Laimer has another version that he calls "slew bearings". If you print the bearings first, you can print the inner and outer races together up to a little more than 50% and carefully drop in the bearing and continue the print. This way you don't need screws. There is the idea of an "airbrush nozzle" that could make that even easier which I am about to try. Also, I found that AirSoft projectiles are either
Non-biodegradable airsoft BBs are usually made from a plastic acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) OR Biodegradable Airsoft BBs are usually made from a plastic polylactic acid or polylactide (PLA).
Good job man!
Awesome channel my friend. Love your detective work
This guy deserves more recognition.
I’ve been trying experimenting and I’ve found the best way is to make it square where the ballbearings are seated and make the tolerances tight you will have a low friction and almost zero play
Hy nice idea to print ball bearings.
This is intended to manufacture a new wareant but not for continuous use and high speeds.
Your water pump is impressive in the line.
you can insert grease bearings in between the bearings, this helps against corrosion and seals.
The ball bearing doesn’t actually spin long if you watch carefully you can clearly see that it’s stops really fast.
But all in all I love 3D Printing so great job 👏
WD40 is rost removal liquid but not a lubricant!
yeah, its abrasive
It is also a lubricant
@@richardmitd8993 It's a solvent which dissolves plastic, not a lubricant at all.
Very nice and interesting video
Roller bearings are great for high loads. My '98 Audi uses them in the hub bearings for better longevity when cornering hard. Only those are all in parallel.
I don't subscribe often but I had to for you. Great work and interesting prints!
1st. never put gloves when you working with rotating mechanism.
2nd. polish surface of moving parts it will decrease heat.
3rd. put some lubricant on moving parts.
I'd imagine there's a fair amount of difference between the plastics used between bb manufacturers since the type of plastic used isn't particularly important. transparant bbs are likely made of significantly harder plastics and might hold up better
What about metal BBs? Might be a good alternative to the plastic airsoft rounds.
I have been able to get some impressively low friction ball bearings using plastic 6mm BB shot and PLA. They work very well at low speed (ie a few dozen RPM - I don't need them to run any faster so don't know if/when they will fail) without any lubricant and with no apparent wear.
Hi, I was curious what that green tool station is that you have on your desk? And if you have a link to it?
what is the backing music for this video? its very nice
Another great video, keep up the good work! :)
Thank u! 😊
What’s the point of the gear bearing? It isn’t really a bearing it just puts up more rpms on the individual axles
Yeah for real. It just looks cool but it doesn't really stop plastic rubbing on plastic. Maybe if it was a small center gear it would reduce friction more. But then it would be even bigger than it already is
I was really bothered by those bugs scattering at the beginning of the video until I realized they were ball bearings. Guess I should wear my glasses...
Anyway. Cool video.
Thanks! :)
Hahaha, I thought they were bugs too. I was like wtf?
If you lower the tolerances between gears and add a temporary grease in the gears you can make the gears "wear mesh" without creating massive play. Any inperfection will powder grind and create abrasive that grinds the gears, grease will capture and protect the gears while they are ground down and hardened.
Great video, i get a lot of inspiration from your channel.
Unrelated but: what is the first background music track in this video? I havent heard it for years and have been searching for it! 😂
Why did you alternate the rollers in the roller bearing?
That's a weird gearbearing you've tested. The nice thing about 3D printed gearbearings (Emmets gear bearing the legendary classic) is that there's no need for axles for planetgears or a cage.
Huh that vid was quite a while back I see.
What printer would you recommend to someone just starting and not wanting to spend a small fortune? Thanks and keep up the videos.
What about using steel balls for the ball bearing?
Does it work with PETG?
Hi! Any gears (metal too!) goes through "team play" process. After working together for some amount of hours they're has to being checked and re-assembled if everything is fine. So you've just got rid of excess material. If you want really test this bearing you should make some moving system that will be giving adequate loads. This will show if it will be working fine or will fail.
Pretty interesting. The results aren't really surprising though. I bet if you made solid roller bearings and could get them to print in such a way that the end was clean, then it would improve performance even more. It would be interesting to see.
You should try and use Graphite is a dry lubricant
It's great that you are using ABS! PLA is just useless..
Interesting results, but I think you could repeat some testing:
-You should put some some grease in between the gears on the geared one obviously. And see if it still wears out.
-Use grease (or Talcum powder) in the ball bearing, instead of WD40.
-Also try printing the balls for the ball bearing in ABS instead of using the bullets.
Thanks!
:)
In the bearing with the bbs, maybe too many balls in the bearing? The balls are rubbing each other maybe?
The wd40 disolves them
I found your channel today, really god work mate
Thank u really!! :)
@@LetsPrintYT This test is not conclusive. None of the results are good. WD40 is not a lubricant and you didn't grease gears. But I do like your videos, I just think you messed up on this one and it's sad as this was an interesting test.
Use metal bb’s for the ball bearing or stronger plastic
So I am trying to have something made where the object stays still in the center and a camera moves around that, can you design something like that to print, I think it will probably use a bearing in the center and screw to platform so the outside of the bearing can be apart of whatever the camera is mounted to
2:15 using the wrong side of the tool
If you want a good general purpose grease for all applications, use white lithium grease.
I think the pellets hardness is lower than abs. They are typically made out of abs with some other additives which might lower the hardness, thus they grind against the standard abs?
I wonder what ABS he prints with, but ABS is very different from each other. It can be pre-degraded from regrind, reusing the moulding leftovers in a new batch of product, and especially if you look at small pellets, you have to suspect that a lot of flashing and injection spouts were removed from them and reused in the next batch of pellets, and every cycle of heating degrades the polymer quite a bit, so you expect some polymer in there that is maybe 10 generations of regrind. It tends to contain free styrene, thus the printing smell - and you know that not all ABS filament has the nauseating smell at least not to the same amount - and it tends to also contain free styrene flake that separates out and makes for low abrasion resistance. It has also been suspected that some 3d printing filament manufacturers, what they sell as ABS really isn't, but is a different styrene copolymer, like SAN or ASA, because printing actual ABS is more troublesome. Even just a reduction of butadiene can make for something that is nominally ABS but really is closer to SAN, so less or no free butadiene and less or no free styrene, as butadiene has been shown to inhibit styrene polymerisation. So i have seen ABS samples with vastly different mechanical properties.
Aye, the balls being a different material to the casing, was always going to result in faster degradation of the softer material.
Was great to see the stability of the other 2, I assume the same abs was used for all active surfaces? clean, accurately printed parts, so it should be universal wear over time, dependant on heat, or ingress of dust, dirt, or other contaminates.
3d printing just keeps leaping forward in quality, and affordability. It's great.
The roller bearing did better because it could withstand both axial (your hand pushing the drill along the imaginary axle) and radial (the weight of the drill, your hand holding the bearing, and other forces perpendicular to the imaginary axle) load, thus making it last longer, with the trade-off being the increased friction.
I had a fidget spinner that got some dirt and stuff gone inside of its bearing and I didn't realize it but when I opened the fidget spinner to hopefully lube the bearing,the bearing fell into pieces on the table.The sand had grinded between the two rings and the balls were also in pretty bad shape.The inner ring and the outer ring had a lot of scorching in the place where the balls spinned.The spinner was spinning freely even with the sand was in there, but I could occasionally hear grinding noises while it was spinning.
testing them by load should be fun.
i love this, subbed
Hey bro lot's of balls can lock each other's from spin and eventually lock all the bearing
I got a bunch of different size steel ball bearing off aliexpress for like $5. I think I might try printing this design.
what computer is he using?
What I suggest is redoing the BB one with different weights of BBs and qualities. Most people pick up the walmart BBs that tend to fall apart easily.
Please make roller bearings with needles or straight pins
A temperatur measure would be great.
Thanks for sharing 👍🙂
hi can you please share the stl file for ball bearing . the one provided in description is not working
Don't ball bearing need a cage to properly space the balls and prevent them from wearing on each other?
I need some bearings that can work in water, maybe even sea water. My plan was to print the races or machine them from Teflon and use stainless ball bearings. From your trial it looks like the printed races could hold up if the stainless balls dont wear each other too much.
great video!
Good video. I am looking for a Pawl/Riving option or design that a sphere is what is rotating instead of the wheels around it., a pawl sphere if you will. Any chance you know anything like this?
Also be careful using gloves when you're using anything that is rotating. cheers.
Where are you from?
WD40 as lubricant? What a waste of time...
Disolves bbs
3D printer bearings are pointless for smaller bearings but anything with a thumb sized hole or larger actually becomes cost effective. A bearing you can put your hand through costs a noticeable portion of a paycheck.
You should try petg because it does generate lot of less friction, nylon is also good but petg is better, nylon wears
It's been 3 years already...
3 years since Spidet Finners were popular
you can use a 300w 775 motor from eBay
I think bb bullets are PLA that is why they wear out. What if you use grease instead of just wd40? It could have worked just fine i guess?
Try to use magnetically assisted
gears for the gear bearing for absolutely no friction damage.
I think the airsoft BB's were eroded by the WD40, do you have the silicone WD40 (black and yellow can) in Estonia by friend?
The roller bearings I've seen are set in one direction. Went did you alternate that causes too much friction.
crossed roller bearings are just a different type of roller bearing, they're just as valid as normal roller bearings they just have different applications.
Good work. Thanks. For proper test size of the devices should be the same. And same lubricant used. Someone said wd40 melts plastic and no good for lubrication. But very good work. Make another fair test. And use metal balls.
If the two materials differ in hardness, one of them will begin to wear the other more quickly. We see this in ceramic bearings that use steel as a racer material - the steel is worn by the ceramic and the rolling resistance increases. Obviously it is much faster with plastic.
the ball bearing link doesnt work :/
Try the ball bearing on with metal bbs instead of air soft bullets
I thought those balls where insects for a minute😂😂
I'm gonna post the bearing system that I've been using in my AX-2 hard-suit replica.
Silent in operation, only one moving part, only two printed parts.
No balls or rollers!
Two types of bearing will be offered: one has a 'split-race' to allow rapid assembly/disassembly, the other has a 'gated race' for a seamless outer race.
They consist of an inner race, and outer race and bit of filament to act as the actual bearing.
Kind of like a 4-point bearing, but a piece of smooth filament instead of rolling balls...
Printables will be hosting; look for "AX Hard Suit bearings" some time after 11/25/2022.
very nice, thanks, subed!
Molygrease black is mineral oil based and eats away plastics. You should only use synthetic oils on plastics like silicon grease 😉
De donde eres!???
Do a video comparing lubricants for ABS.