Thanks for the video. You inspired me to tackle same job on my Defender 90. What a messy job - very thankful it isnt a 110. Despite gloves, turpentine and a huge number of rags, I still managed to get my hands covered in Silkflex. After much scrubbing with a pumice stone, it's nearly all off..along with several layers of skin!
I just did this very job on my 110. Spent ages working out the best thing to use and I went for the same, Sikaflex 291. We had some torrential rain the last two days and not a drop of water inside anywhere. I am working my way through your other videos, and I have to say they are some of the best if not the best L/R videos on the web. Very informative and helpful. All the best for your future mods and travels, from a fellow Landy owner in the UK. Cheers.
Hi, one of the worlds greatest challenges, keeping the rain outside a Defender. Seen so many attempts over the years both online and in magazines, even Land Rover failed. Looks like you've done a great job there Brett, the secrets in the prep I think. I live I in Scotland so you can appreciate this is an issue, which I think I've solved with Tiger Seal my local main dealer informed me this is what they use and so far problem solved.
Thanks John. I'm sure Scotland would have its own unique challenges. I'm glad I live in my sunburnt country... just minus the occasional offshore cyclone.
Roaming The Outback Yes indeed, lot to be said for the hot climate. I've gone down the road of galvanising and powder coating as much as possible, wax oil is also great but very messy to apply. Shame Land Rover U.K. didn't take note of how you guys built your Perentie Land Rovers for the military, now that's a Land Rover.
Excellent video! I experienced the same leaks and did the same job. Also it is worth changing the rubbers of the alpine glass if they are cracked or dryed out. Cheers from a wet Holland
Although I do not mind much such water leaking when driving through the wild during summers and extreme heat but here in my country winters can be extremely harsh ... so that water can get frozen inside those small cracks on the roof. You can imagine what the damage can be done in that case. But that is all expected ... these vehicles are made to serve us and ours is to give them at least a bit of care they deserve. Useful video, indeed. Thanks for the advice.
@@RoamingTheOutback The mountains that I used to visit through many years are known by extremely strong winds (up to 240 km/hour) especially during long winters. The snow height can be even over 3 meters ... the frost and ice is what is worse for the batteries especially if I had to leave the truck somewhere to wait for me few days to return from hiking. Despite that all my old 88 (1971), the favorite one, never left me there although it was n/a diesel fuel that can freeze. Since 1996 till today I own 110 (19J-1989) that I decided to leave to my younger son hopping him to follow my steps ... thou on the way that he has to decide himself. I guess you understand me well. Last year he started visiting the mountains and I was quite aware of the risks he has to pass through to get his first experience needed. He entered into some troubles that were really expected as he decided to travel this time last year just when snow storms started ... It wasn't easy for all of us waiting few nights for the message to come from him and a friend whom he asked to join the trip. There is no mobile phone signal in those mountains ... here are some details about that adventure: ruclips.net/video/VFFHobAZAG0/видео.html take a time and check these links if you wish. ruclips.net/video/oki62MwokSE/видео.html There are more on my lists here. Thanks.
I have used Sikaflex as well, both on the landy and caravans. but also have a go with"captain trolley's creeping crack cure" for boats, caravans etc, fantastic name, fantastic product, it uses capillary action to suck itself into hairline cracks and cures off and seals :-)
That's a shame, I guess you could get it shipped from Europe, good videos by the way, and good advice, even though the UK has limited "off road travelling" at the moment the moors, and a trip around Scotland are good enough road trips, and when I am done exploring all the remote UK regions perhaps I'll go over the channel to France, Spain and Morocco.....
Water ingress manual is a must when you have water inside. Big thanks for information about what product to use to get good result. Probably will use it on my sunroof, since finding new seal is almost impossible.
You're welcome mate. Just check through the comments for other recommendations too to see if there's something more fitting for your desired purpose.
7 лет назад
What about dust ingress? I've replaced all door seals, sealed holes in under seat boxes, have new air vents seals and still my defender gets dirty inside. Any tips ?
The only way I can think is to creative positive pressure in the cabin to keep the dust outside ie. air conditioner or blower. I had much the same issue while travelling despite filling in most of the gaps. Carry a dustpan and brush like I do. ;-)
fantastic video mate. I have done many upgrades to my 200tdi inspired by your videos and this one will actually help with something that really annoys me. Well done Mate!!
3M PU ADH SEALANT 8694 BLACK 310ML 3M™ Urethane Seam Sealer is a high solids seam sealer ideal for sealing automotive and RV seams and joints. It adheres well to bare metal, primed metal and painted surfaces, and if desired can be smoothed to a featheredge and/or brushed. Tack free and paintable after 30-45 minutes, this urethane formula is permanently flexible and offers superior performance to solvent-based sealers. High quality, single component formula adheres well to bare metal, primed metal and painted surfaces Moisture curing property provides excellent performance in high heat and humidity environments Non-Shrinking, non-cracking, low/no odor formula remains flexible and offers superior results to solvent-based sealers Paintable after 30-45 minutes Thick consistency is able to fill large voids Can be smoothed to a featheredge or brushed
Nice work Brett, I have noted not all silicone sealants are acid curing like Selley's Roof and Gutter sealant (neutral cure) and use these types exclusively for all my DIY applications, they have since released a colour matched product line as it is intended for use on colour bond etc. Clean shaven really suits you best, welcome back!
Thanks for another good video. Do you store your Defender undercover when you're home, or is it outside? Interested to know if it was under cover overnight while the Sikaflex was curing.
Great video thanks for the share. Need some advice regarding my roof. Its basically leaking at the seams/joints and also in the middle where there is no joint, paint is also flaking and bubbling, think the last owner tried to fix it without success. It's entire Landrover is currently coated in Raptor (like old style artex). Wanting to get rid of all the flaking, cleaning off with white spirits the primering use Sika flex 521 UV on the joints and then painting the entire roof with bitumen, would also consider using some rust repellent before treating would this be a good idea or not with the bitumen thanks any advice would be great
Not sure why you'd want to use bitumen. If you strip the roof back, and remove the interior roof lining, you'll have access to all the seams and joins where water ingress. Using sika flex on all those points should cure the problem. All the roof is aluminium, so rust repellent is likely unnessessary unless you're using an aluminium specific product. Paint how you see fit after that.
Okay so my Landrover is covered in Raptor, and it has started flaking on the roof, after taking off the roof lining (inspect to see if it needs filling, also the lining is damp) and scraping the paint back around the area. The surface is a wood base, but inside the truck it is aluminium. Is this normal? Or should I invest in a carbon fibre roof
Firstly, love your videos!!! Very helpful. I removed the previous sealant (which I think is what the Land Rover had as a default). Cleaned it all up and then applied a thick layer of Sikaflex. Worried I should have left the original sealant and just applied the sikaflex over it? Do you think it'll be a problem?
If the original was still in good condition then probably no need to remove.. I just removed in the places it had cracked or peeled off letting the new sealant take its place. no leaks to date. No harm doing it all fresh I should think.
Have a 1993 defender for past 6 months. Someone at some point has used a black tape inside the well which seems to seal it. No ingress issues. Anyone know what it's called?
Hi mate my defender suffers from leeks which I’m trying to cure .also it keeps getting condensation in the back as well any tips on getting rid of this cheers paul
condensation will go anywhere there's bare metal.. I covered all my sides and roof with marine carpet and closed cell foam. Stopped the condensation and reduced cabin noise. throw in some dynamat too if you want to go all the way.
Hey George, I probably got it from BCF or Whitworths. It can't be relied upon for accurate navigation as the electrical interference swings it +-20 degrees, but for a general sense of direction, it helps keep me aware where I'm going.
Did you also check the a pillars, fill the pop rivets and top seams, plus fill the rectangular pressings underneath the gutters? There will be some join you missed.
@@RoamingTheOutback Thanks for the tip. I have not done the rectangular pressing underneath the gutter as I don't think water would come up from there but I will do it. mine is a 2007 puma there is only 1 rivet on the roof near the giraffe window. I think I will try to seal the rubber around the giraffe window. For the love of God I have no idea where the water keeps coming in from. Thanks
@@RoamingTheOutback . ahh well, defeated by Defender again. done the front pillar with putty ( although the pillar joint is lower than the spot where the water drips off) and blocked the rivets ( most of them are painted and below the water level anyway) , also closed the rectangular pressing on both sides ( temporarily I ran a strip of electrical tape all along) and even put electrical tape around the giraffe window seals just to test if it makes a difference ( I would than put a proper sealant if that is the leaking area). The result.... water still coming in when parked in the rain. my next attempt will be with the car parked slightly uphill to put a big tarp on the uphill half of the car... That will tell me if the water comes in from the back( that is what I think). a day at the time I will move the tarp backwards to cover more and more area until I can point where water coming in. It is driving me nuts but I will get to the bottom of it.
very unlucky.. you've got a unique Defender there, but a good idea on determining the source. Also when it rains next climb inside and run your fingers in the inside channel and check for pooling water (if you can reach behind the facias). Water will also get in between the roof and panels where usually a layer of foam sits, but that would just drip down inside, not fill the channels and run down on you when you brake. @@ecoinsectscreens5551
Hello Useful movie : ) couple weeks ago I have broken back glass in my 110, the guy who replaced the window (in car service) showed me special black hot silikon , is extremely strong after being frozen, is enough flexible, able to glue everything (You will break the pliers more than the old broken glass, so it is strong :) very good with aluminium join...
Great to see you back 👍
Thanks Garrett. Got a few more vids coming in the next couple months.
Good to have you back posting Brett
Thanks for the video. You inspired me to tackle same job on my Defender 90. What a messy job - very thankful it isnt a 110. Despite gloves, turpentine and a huge number of rags, I still managed to get my hands covered in Silkflex. After much scrubbing with a pumice stone, it's nearly all off..along with several layers of skin!
I just did this very job on my 110. Spent ages working out the best thing to use and I went for the same, Sikaflex 291. We had some torrential rain the last two days and not a drop of water inside anywhere. I am working my way through your other videos, and I have to say they are some of the best if not the best L/R videos on the web. Very informative and helpful. All the best for your future mods and travels, from a fellow Landy owner in the UK. Cheers.
Thanks mate. Good to hear I made the right choice. There are way too many products to choose from.
Should spray over the sikaflex with clearcoat. It will last longer and stop dirt sticking.
I've also used sikaflex. Great product
Hi, one of the worlds greatest challenges, keeping the rain outside a Defender. Seen so many attempts over the years both online and in magazines, even Land Rover failed. Looks like you've done a great job there Brett, the secrets in the prep I think. I live I in Scotland so you can appreciate this is an issue, which I think I've solved with Tiger Seal my local main dealer informed me this is what they use and so far problem solved.
Thanks John. I'm sure Scotland would have its own unique challenges. I'm glad I live in my sunburnt country... just minus the occasional offshore cyclone.
Roaming The Outback Yes indeed, lot to be said for the hot climate. I've gone down the road of galvanising and powder coating as much as possible, wax oil is also great but very messy to apply. Shame Land Rover U.K. didn't take note of how you guys built your Perentie Land Rovers for the military, now that's a Land Rover.
Excellent video! I experienced the same leaks and did the same job. Also it is worth changing the rubbers of the alpine glass if they are cracked or dryed out. Cheers from a wet Holland
Will have to look again at my rubbers. They're getting a little powdery on the outside.
Great video and it is also great to have you back... cheers...!
Glad you're back, enjoy your trip vids. Sikaflex is good stuff, now you can use the roof as a boat ;-)
Thanks. I've never thought of that. I wonder if it would actually work?
Similar shape to a punt, so no reason why not. Probably need to have a motor mount to replace the rear door and give a bit more free-board though.
Thanks for taking the time to make and share 👍
So easy and enjoyable to watch your videos.
Thanks mate. Glad you enjoy them.
Love your videos mate. We need more... Especially on your build and upgrades. Keep up the great work mate.
Jared from the Gold Coast
Thanks Jared. I'm working on a few new upgrades now so expect new videos in the coming few months.
Although I do not mind much such water leaking when driving through the wild during summers and extreme heat but here in my country winters can be extremely harsh ... so that water can get frozen inside those small cracks on the roof. You can imagine what the damage can be done in that case. But that is all expected ... these vehicles are made to serve us and ours is to give them at least a bit of care they deserve. Useful video, indeed. Thanks for the advice.
Thanks Pavle. Sounds like you have some unique issues where you're from. In the North of Australia ice is never an issue.
@@RoamingTheOutback The mountains that I used to visit through many years are known by extremely strong winds (up to 240 km/hour) especially during long winters. The snow height can be even over 3 meters ... the frost and ice is what is worse for the batteries especially if I had to leave the truck somewhere to wait for me few days to return from hiking. Despite that all my old 88 (1971), the favorite one, never left me there although it was n/a diesel fuel that can freeze. Since 1996 till today I own 110 (19J-1989) that I decided to leave to my younger son hopping him to follow my steps ... thou on the way that he has to decide himself. I guess you understand me well. Last year he started visiting the mountains and I was quite aware of the risks he has to pass through to get his first experience needed. He entered into some troubles that were really expected as he decided to travel this time last year just when snow storms started ...
It wasn't easy for all of us waiting few nights for the message to come from him and a friend whom he asked to join the trip. There is no mobile phone signal in those mountains ... here are some details about that adventure: ruclips.net/video/VFFHobAZAG0/видео.html
take a time and check these links if you wish. ruclips.net/video/oki62MwokSE/видео.html
There are more on my lists here. Thanks.
I have used Sikaflex as well, both on the landy and caravans. but also have a go with"captain trolley's creeping crack cure" for boats, caravans etc, fantastic name, fantastic product, it uses capillary action to suck itself into hairline cracks and cures off and seals :-)
Thanks Ashley. I did look around for that but it doesn't appear to be available in Australia.
That's a shame, I guess you could get it shipped from Europe, good videos by the way, and good advice, even though the UK has limited "off road travelling" at the moment the moors, and a trip around Scotland are good enough road trips, and when I am done exploring all the remote UK regions perhaps I'll go over the channel to France, Spain and Morocco.....
www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAPTAIN-TOLLEYS-CREEPING-CRACK-CURE-GRP-PLASTIC-LIQUID-REPAIR-SEALANT-/151166331274
Very good. I need to do that job in my 90 badly!
Carlos Don,t do it badly, do it well Ha Ha, Good Luck.
Good video, it seems like I'm fixing leaks in my RRC every year, oh well , it's been good to me. Keep up the great work
Thanks Jody, will do.
Water ingress manual is a must when you have water inside. Big thanks for information about what product to use to get good result. Probably will use it on my sunroof, since finding new seal is almost impossible.
You're welcome mate. Just check through the comments for other recommendations too to see if there's something more fitting for your desired purpose.
What about dust ingress? I've replaced all door seals, sealed holes in under seat boxes, have new air vents seals and still my defender gets dirty inside. Any tips ?
The only way I can think is to creative positive pressure in the cabin to keep the dust outside ie. air conditioner or blower. I had much the same issue while travelling despite filling in most of the gaps. Carry a dustpan and brush like I do. ;-)
fantastic video mate. I have done many upgrades to my 200tdi inspired by your videos and this one will actually help with something that really annoys me. Well done Mate!!
Thanks Samuel. Glad you've gotten value from my vids.
Good video Brett and good to see you sharing again. When's your next trip out n about ?? 👍
Hoping to head off early 2018 on the next big lap
Thanks for the video, this has fixed my leaking roof nicely!
Great to hear Michael.
Thanks for the vido Bret!
3M PU ADH SEALANT 8694 BLACK 310ML
3M™ Urethane Seam Sealer is a high solids seam sealer ideal for sealing automotive and RV seams and joints. It adheres well to bare metal, primed metal and painted surfaces, and if desired can be smoothed to a featheredge and/or brushed. Tack free and paintable after 30-45 minutes, this urethane formula is permanently flexible and offers superior performance to solvent-based sealers.
High quality, single component formula adheres well to bare metal, primed metal and painted surfaces
Moisture curing property provides excellent performance in high heat and humidity environments
Non-Shrinking, non-cracking, low/no odor formula remains flexible and offers superior results to solvent-based sealers
Paintable after 30-45 minutes
Thick consistency is able to fill large voids
Can be smoothed to a featheredge or brushed
Jaaa, me I use' Bison seal ' monocomponent hibrid polimer high quality rezistant .After 24 h' its like a rubber. Tks. Apreciatte video. Cheers! 👍
Do you have a link? Google returned no results that I could see.
Did the same on mine but didn't do the gutters. I'll be doing the gutters now!
Nice work Brett, I have noted not all silicone sealants are acid curing like Selley's Roof and Gutter sealant (neutral cure) and use these types exclusively for all my DIY applications, they have since released a colour matched product line as it is intended for use on colour bond etc.
Clean shaven really suits you best, welcome back!
Thanks mate. Sounds like Selley's might be a good choice for those with a roof colour other than white.
Nice work. Hope it's uv resistant and will not be damaged by sun.
Thanks mate.. Guess i'll find out in a few years how well it stands the test of time.
Thanks for another good video. Do you store your Defender undercover when you're home, or is it outside? Interested to know if it was under cover overnight while the Sikaflex was curing.
No mate outside. Showers didn't impact curing. The outside cures within a day or two. It's just the deeper stuff that takes longer to cure.
Great video thanks for the share. Need some advice regarding my roof. Its basically leaking at the seams/joints and also in the middle where there is no joint, paint is also flaking and bubbling, think the last owner tried to fix it without success. It's entire Landrover is currently coated in Raptor (like old style artex). Wanting to get rid of all the flaking, cleaning off with white spirits the primering use Sika flex 521 UV on the joints and then painting the entire roof with bitumen, would also consider using some rust repellent before treating would this be a good idea or not with the bitumen thanks any advice would be great
Not sure why you'd want to use bitumen. If you strip the roof back, and remove the interior roof lining, you'll have access to all the seams and joins where water ingress. Using sika flex on all those points should cure the problem. All the roof is aluminium, so rust repellent is likely unnessessary unless you're using an aluminium specific product. Paint how you see fit after that.
@@RoamingTheOutback thank you for getting back to us. Really appreciate the advice, I'll use the sika flex. Thanks
Okay so my Landrover is covered in Raptor, and it has started flaking on the roof, after taking off the roof lining (inspect to see if it needs filling, also the lining is damp) and scraping the paint back around the area. The surface is a wood base, but inside the truck it is aluminium. Is this normal? Or should I invest in a carbon fibre roof
Hi mate did you fill in the drain holes in your guttering front and back ..good vid thankyou
No, drain holes still there
You need an Alu-Cab rooftop conversion, mate! It's welded and not leaking at all.
That would be awesome.
I believe there is a retailer in Oz as well. Best modification I ever made to my Defender, and it's perfectly possible to self-install it.
Firstly, love your videos!!! Very helpful.
I removed the previous sealant (which I think is what the Land Rover had as a default). Cleaned it all up and then applied a thick layer of Sikaflex. Worried I should have left the original sealant and just applied the sikaflex over it? Do you think it'll be a problem?
If the original was still in good condition then probably no need to remove.. I just removed in the places it had cracked or peeled off letting the new sealant take its place. no leaks to date. No harm doing it all fresh I should think.
Thanks, darn I should have watched the video more carefully lol. Oh well, lesson learnt.
Hey, nice video. I’m about to do the same on my Defender 90 however i’m divided between sikflex 291, 521 or 295. Any thoughts on that?
Many thanks
Sorry don't know any of the others, but read through all the comments. May be some advice there.
hi garret.can use shelly silicone?
Hi mate I am getting my defender sprayed soon can I use this stuff as you have and spray on top of it ..many thanks
I think it can, but check the label online.
Although I just had my roof resprayed and pretty sure they left all my sikaflex intact.. looks good to me.
Roaming The Outback thanks Pal will take a look thankyou .
Have a 1993 defender for past 6 months. Someone at some point has used a black tape inside the well which seems to seal it. No ingress issues. Anyone know what it's called?
Hi mate my defender suffers from leeks which I’m trying to cure .also it keeps getting condensation in the back as well any tips on getting rid of this cheers paul
condensation will go anywhere there's bare metal.. I covered all my sides and roof with marine carpet and closed cell foam. Stopped the condensation and reduced cabin noise. throw in some dynamat too if you want to go all the way.
Roaming The Outback thanks mate for the info I will get some of these and try ..will let you know .thanks again
Hey Brett, where did you get your compass on your dash from?
Hey George, I probably got it from BCF or Whitworths. It can't be relied upon for accurate navigation as the electrical interference swings it +-20 degrees, but for a general sense of direction, it helps keep me aware where I'm going.
@@RoamingTheOutback I didn't know that could happen! Thank you for the help Brett, have a good one!
3M 8694 Black works better and do not attract dust
Can I use Sikaflex 221 instead?
read through the comments to see if someone else has used it successfully.
have done all the gutters with the same product but it has not worked, still leaking :( perhaps the giraffe window seals are the issue....
Did you also check the a pillars, fill the pop rivets and top seams, plus fill the rectangular pressings underneath the gutters? There will be some join you missed.
@@RoamingTheOutback Thanks for the tip. I have not done the rectangular pressing underneath the gutter as I don't think water would come up from there but I will do it. mine is a 2007 puma there is only 1 rivet on the roof near the giraffe window. I think I will try to seal the rubber around the giraffe window. For the love of God I have no idea where the water keeps coming in from. Thanks
@@ecoinsectscreens5551 I've had water come in from the pressings.. I watched it happen in the rain. A tricky thing.
@@RoamingTheOutback . ahh well, defeated by Defender again. done the front pillar with putty ( although the pillar joint is lower than the spot where the water drips off) and blocked the rivets ( most of them are painted and below the water level anyway) , also closed the rectangular pressing on both sides ( temporarily I ran a strip of electrical tape all along) and even put electrical tape around the giraffe window seals just to test if it makes a difference ( I would than put a proper sealant if that is the leaking area). The result.... water still coming in when parked in the rain. my next attempt will be with the car parked slightly uphill to put a big tarp on the uphill half of the car... That will tell me if the water comes in from the back( that is what I think). a day at the time I will move the tarp backwards to cover more and more area until I can point where water coming in. It is driving me nuts but I will get to the bottom of it.
very unlucky.. you've got a unique Defender there, but a good idea on determining the source. Also when it rains next climb inside and run your fingers in the inside channel and check for pooling water (if you can reach behind the facias).
Water will also get in between the roof and panels where usually a layer of foam sits, but that would just drip down inside, not fill the channels and run down on you when you brake.
@@ecoinsectscreens5551
Hello
Useful movie : ) couple weeks ago I have broken back glass in my 110, the guy who replaced the window (in car service) showed me special black hot silikon , is extremely strong after being frozen, is enough flexible, able to glue everything (You will break the pliers more than the old broken glass, so it is strong :) very good with aluminium join...
Sounds like powerful stuff! When the Sikaflex eventually wears out in several years I'll keep my eyes out for better products.
Better without the beard 👍🏼
If defender roof is not leaking, its not raining.
If a land rover is not leaking oil, it is out of oil.
How to stop the leaks: sell the car
The solution is you don't :p
long term most likely haha..
Geez. Just don't buy a Land Rover. Problem solved.
haha. Quite true. But then what would you do with all that free time??
Can you still use a roof rack once you’ve filled the rain channelling
Yes. You don't completely fill the channels. Only fill the cracks.