Excellent video, I’m looking to do the same. Replace/ retire my trusty ender 3 with an x1c in my machine shop. The ender is perfect for a small prototype projects and I’ve even printed soft jaws for light, small batch, aluminum cnc machining using PETG. The speed at which these bambu printers operate is definitely enticing, also I’m getting tired of babysitting my ender or worrying about it running unattended overnight. All the noise of novice, first time 3D printer owners was holding me back. Thank you for taking the time to create this video
I noticed that the belt positioning on the tensioning bearings on your x1c isn’t centred. Did you re-adjust the belts or did it come like this from the factory? Cheers!
Your measurements and their inaccuracy from reference, is much more a product of thermal expansion in the filament. It’s shrinking as it cools. Hence, your ended prints more accurately than the x1. If you printed at the same speed between models, you’d likely see a result that much more realistically represents the abilities of the printers. When the bambu printed faster, each layer isn’t allowed to cool as much before the next layer is added
Thanks for the insight. I printed all the models with standard printing profile (200 mm/s), the only change i did is type of infill (gyroid). But it might be the reason, why ender ended up a little bit better.
My box had a rip in it in almost exactly the same spot and the rip was shaped exactly like yours. Strange. Wonder if it has something to do with their shipping process? maybe the same disgruntled forklift driver happened to load both of our printers haha.
on the precision you compared 2 different filaments (colours) which can shrink differently. Also speed makes things less precise. Print with the same speed and compare, Use the same filament. Your argument.... Why should I pay 10 times the money if I have to print at the same speed. Because prototyping... Sometimes you have to test concepts to be able to modifie something and retry. Sometimes pecission is not the key. But I would try always the same filament to compare precission on 2 printers. an other point for shrinkage is the lifted ends. The layers pull on the botom layers which causes them to pull the ends up due to shrinkage of each layer. Each filament in each colour has a different value in shrinkage. In Cura slicer there is an option in compensation for Shrinkage. You design a part for example 240 mm long and 10 mm wide print it once in y direction and the other time in x direction. The shrinkage should be the same. Now you mesure and can ad a compensation in your slicer. This should be done for each filament. Very important printing ABS as there is a lot of shrinkage.
Thanks for your input. I used generic PLA for ender and bambu filament for X1C.I got to say that I did some suprisngly precise prints with abs using my old ender, no enclosure, no additional setup it just worked 🙂. BTW I did the XY roundness print with different PLA filaments and speed profiles on X1C and the difference was more less same. My solution is just simply scale the model till I figure out all the bells and whistles in the slicer
So the flatness of the bed on the X1C is an absolute lottery. Some are much flatter than others and it’s just the luck of the draw if you get one that’s as good as this one. I have a few X1Cs and they’re all quite flat front to back but not flat left the right. One of them has a dip in the center of the bed that’s over 1mm. Truly awful. This needs sorting out for gen 2 of this printer.
I've read numerous threads about bended beds in initial wave of pre-orders. In my situation, the bed is reasonably flat in the front (left-right orientation) due to the presence of rails and a Z screw. The same can be said for the front-back orientation in the center. However, the far edges pose a challenge as there is inadequate support, and the bed itself exhibits some springiness. Introducing a tall and heavy print may cause deflection in the opposite direction, assuming good adhesion, of course. The bad thing is, that you cannot get the "banana" out of the bed. 1 mm is a lot. BTW I'm not sure how much is "replacement bed" much and also, the procedure of bed exchange is probably hell.
@@JustAnotherCraftsman yeah, changing the bed is something I’m considering. But it’s a hell job on these like changing the belts which I’ve done @4000 hrs. It is a OCT 2022 model this one. Not pre release. I hope they’ve improved the QC on this for the newer models. It’s also worth mentioning that once the bed is up to temperature the mesh and flatness could be completely different anyway. It might deflect with heat. The printer does a good job of compensating for this issue so for most people it would never be an issue. But I noticed areas on the first layer infill which were over filled and some which were under filled. My other X1Cs seem better.
@@baremetaltechtv I only have one P1 and the bed is not flat but not too bad either. I suspect Bambu labs have replaced so many bad beds now that they’re making an effort to make sure they go out flatter.
@@baremetaltechtv I don't see much complains about banana bend from current batches. I think, that they somehow figured it out. Also, my bed was incorrectly trammed from production. But if you refer to far edges, yes, they are a bit springy, but i don't think that there is currently corexy printer in the price range of P1S not having the same problem, there is simply no support, except for the rigidity of the bed itself. If there are users of other brands with different experience, please correct me. Also keep in mind, that not every combo of operator+milling machine is able to make (aluminium/steel) part parallel within 0.1 mm (top bottom) at 220 mm distance and I'm talking about 2 tons cast iron machines. Here we have 14 kg machine that is almost capable of doing it (in plastic of course), as you can see from measurements I did in the video on granite surface plate. And at the end it condenses down to what are you planning to print. My aim is mostly engineering stuff, models for PLA lost/ sand casting etc., so the flatness do matter in my case.
The point was to test the out of the box performance and how much the machine itself compensate for the shrinkage. I tried to scale the model (just 100.2 %) and it works just fine. I'm overal happy with the printer. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.
Okay. I’m not super mechanically inclined so do you have any tips on how to do the tramming? I noticed Bambu has a wiki on the tramming. Did you attach the depth gauge then zero it out in the middle? Still confused on your reference measurement point. Thank you!
I found your video very satisfying to watch! I loved the comparison with the noise of your other toys, I mean, tools 🛠️ 😂❤ Keep it up!
Thank you! 😁
Excellent video, I’m looking to do the same. Replace/ retire my trusty ender 3 with an x1c in my machine shop. The ender is perfect for a small prototype projects and I’ve even printed soft jaws for light, small batch, aluminum cnc machining using PETG.
The speed at which these bambu printers operate is definitely enticing, also I’m getting tired of babysitting my ender or worrying about it running unattended overnight. All the noise of novice, first time 3D printer owners was holding me back. Thank you for taking the time to create this video
Thank you for the feedback 🙂, I Hope you will be satisfied with the purchase!
I noticed that the belt positioning on the tensioning bearings on your x1c isn’t centred. Did you re-adjust the belts or did it come like this from the factory? Cheers!
Right from the factory, thanks for the info, I'll better check it.
Your measurements and their inaccuracy from reference, is much more a product of thermal expansion in the filament. It’s shrinking as it cools.
Hence, your ended prints more accurately than the x1. If you printed at the same speed between models, you’d likely see a result that much more realistically represents the abilities of the printers.
When the bambu printed faster, each layer isn’t allowed to cool as much before the next layer is added
Thanks for the insight. I printed all the models with standard printing profile (200 mm/s), the only change i did is type of infill (gyroid). But it might be the reason, why ender ended up a little bit better.
My box had a rip in it in almost exactly the same spot and the rip was shaped exactly like yours. Strange. Wonder if it has something to do with their shipping process? maybe the same disgruntled forklift driver happened to load both of our printers haha.
Maybe it's the forklift operator's signature :D
on the precision you compared 2 different filaments (colours) which can shrink differently. Also speed makes things less precise. Print with the same speed and compare, Use the same filament. Your argument.... Why should I pay 10 times the money if I have to print at the same speed. Because prototyping... Sometimes you have to test concepts to be able to modifie something and retry. Sometimes pecission is not the key. But I would try always the same filament to compare precission on 2 printers. an other point for shrinkage is the lifted ends. The layers pull on the botom layers which causes them to pull the ends up due to shrinkage of each layer. Each filament in each colour has a different value in shrinkage. In Cura slicer there is an option in compensation for Shrinkage. You design a part for example 240 mm long and 10 mm wide print it once in y direction and the other time in x direction. The shrinkage should be the same. Now you mesure and can ad a compensation in your slicer. This should be done for each filament. Very important printing ABS as there is a lot of shrinkage.
Thanks for your input. I used generic PLA for ender and bambu filament for X1C.I got to say that I did some suprisngly precise prints with abs using my old ender, no enclosure, no additional setup it just worked 🙂. BTW I did the XY roundness print with different PLA filaments and speed profiles on X1C and the difference was more less same. My solution is just simply scale the model till I figure out all the bells and whistles in the slicer
So the flatness of the bed on the X1C is an absolute lottery. Some are much flatter than others and it’s just the luck of the draw if you get one that’s as good as this one. I have a few X1Cs and they’re all quite flat front to back but not flat left the right. One of them has a dip in the center of the bed that’s over 1mm. Truly awful. This needs sorting out for gen 2 of this printer.
I've read numerous threads about bended beds in initial wave of pre-orders. In my situation, the bed is reasonably flat in the front (left-right orientation) due to the presence of rails and a Z screw. The same can be said for the front-back orientation in the center. However, the far edges pose a challenge as there is inadequate support, and the bed itself exhibits some springiness. Introducing a tall and heavy print may cause deflection in the opposite direction, assuming good adhesion, of course. The bad thing is, that you cannot get the "banana" out of the bed. 1 mm is a lot. BTW I'm not sure how much is "replacement bed" much and also, the procedure of bed exchange is probably hell.
So do you think the p1s and p1p have the same bed problems?
@@JustAnotherCraftsman yeah, changing the bed is something I’m considering. But it’s a hell job on these like changing the belts which I’ve done @4000 hrs. It is a OCT 2022 model this one. Not pre release. I hope they’ve improved the QC on this for the newer models. It’s also worth mentioning that once the bed is up to temperature the mesh and flatness could be completely different anyway. It might deflect with heat. The printer does a good job of compensating for this issue so for most people it would never be an issue. But I noticed areas on the first layer infill which were over filled and some which were under filled. My other X1Cs seem better.
@@baremetaltechtv I only have one P1 and the bed is not flat but not too bad either. I suspect Bambu labs have replaced so many bad beds now that they’re making an effort to make sure they go out flatter.
@@baremetaltechtv I don't see much complains about banana bend from current batches. I think, that they somehow figured it out. Also, my bed was incorrectly trammed from production. But if you refer to far edges, yes, they are a bit springy, but i don't think that there is currently corexy printer in the price range of P1S not having the same problem, there is simply no support, except for the rigidity of the bed itself. If there are users of other brands with different experience, please correct me. Also keep in mind, that not every combo of operator+milling machine is able to make (aluminium/steel) part parallel within 0.1 mm (top bottom) at 220 mm distance and I'm talking about 2 tons cast iron machines. Here we have 14 kg machine that is almost capable of doing it (in plastic of course), as you can see from measurements I did in the video on granite surface plate. And at the end it condenses down to what are you planning to print. My aim is mostly engineering stuff, models for PLA lost/ sand casting etc., so the flatness do matter in my case.
That precision test that you did is completely inaccurate and invalid as the material has thermal expansion and contraction
The point was to test the out of the box performance and how much the machine itself compensate for the shrinkage. I tried to scale the model (just 100.2 %) and it works just fine. I'm overal happy with the printer. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.
Does Bambu studio not have a shrinkage section like orca?
@@CraysavI think so, but it was straight from the box testing. It could also be compensated by scaling.
Okay. I’m not super mechanically inclined so do you have any tips on how to do the tramming? I noticed Bambu has a wiki on the tramming. Did you attach the depth gauge then zero it out in the middle? Still confused on your reference measurement point. Thank you!
@@JustAnotherCraftsman you also used different filament which again invalidates the test